exploring umami: the fifth taste
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Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Exploring Umami: The Fifth Taste
With David Kasabian, co-author, The Fifth Taste: Cooking with Umami
davidkasabian@hotmail.com
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
What Umami is
Just like sweet, sour, salty and bitter,
Umami is an ingredient-activated taste sensation
that contributes to the enjoyment of food
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Why care about Umami?
Food WITH umami
tastes rich, deep,
satisfying and long-
lasting.
Food WITHOUT
umami can taste
shallow, insipid and
fleeting.
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Umami tastes like?
Meaty
BrothyBeefy
Savory
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Some familiar Umami-tasting ingredients include:
Parmesan cheese Ripe tomatoesBraised beef Mushrooms
Asian fish sauce MSG
Umami tastes like?
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
What tastes Umami?Foods taste Umami when they contain:
1. Free amino acidshighly-available protein building blocks, and peptides, simple amino acid chains
2. Nucleotidesrelated to RNA and DNA, e.g., IMP, GMP, XMP
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Umami Taste & Synergy
05
10
15202530
3540
Glu Ser Ala Gly Asn Lys
Amino only+ Nucleotide
Nelson, Greg, et al. Nature, March 2002
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Recipe: Crab a la LabCombine and mix well…• Glycine • Alanine • Arginine• MSG• IMP • Salt
Kenzo Kurihara and Makoto Kashiwayanagi, Hokkaido University, Japan, 2000
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
What Umami Does for FoodIn an otherwise well-balanced dish, umami:
• Heightens impact • Contributes mouth feel • Enhances flavors of other ingredients• Delays palate fatigue • Promotes satiety • Extends finish
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Umami Taste Interactions
Softens sour Masks bitter
UM
AM
I
UM
AM
IHeightens perceived salt
Heightens perceived sweet
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
What gives food Umami?1. It is often in food when we get it …• Natural endowment
– Oysters, sea vegetables, mushrooms • Maturity
– Ripe tomatoes– Older animals, e.g., fowl, mutton
• More exercised muscle – Pot roast vs. filet mignon– Tuna vs. cod
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
What gives food Umami?2. And we can do things to develop it…• Aging – natural enzyme action
– Dry aged beef– Cured hams and sausage
• Fermenting – inoculation enzyme action– Bacteria, e.g., cheese – Fungi, e.g., wine, pickles, artisan bread
• Cooking – heat agitation – Braising – Searing
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Sources of Umami taste
Some garden vegetables, e.g.,• Ripe tomatoes • Winter squash • Legumes • Corn • Mature potatoes
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Sources of Umami taste
Sea vegetables, e.g., • Kombu • Nori (dried laver)• Arame, wakame, dulce
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Sources of Umami taste
Meats, e.g.• Cured ham • Pork• Turkey • Chicken • Beef, lamb
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Sources of Umami taste
Finfish & Shellfish, e.g., • Dark finfish (mackerel, tuna,
anchovies) • Most shellfish (crab, oyster, mussel,
sea urchin)
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Sources of Umami taste
Fungi, e.g., • Shiitake mushrooms • Portobello mushrooms • Truffles • Yeast
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Sources of Umami taste
Condiments, e.g., • Asian fish sauce • Soy sauce • Worcestershire sauce • Caesar dressing • Ketchup
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Sources of Umami taste
Beverages, e.g., • Wine • Beer • Sake
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Sources of Umami taste
Some dairy, e.g., • Parmigiano Reggiano • Other hard aged cheeses • Blue-veined cheese • Cheddar, Ementhal, etc. • NOT cow’s milk• Eggs
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Sources of Umami tasteTaste Enhancers, e.g.,
• MSG, other glutamates • Isolated nucleotides
• Yeast products • Fish products
• Amino/nucleotide • cocktails
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
The Art of the Umami Bomb
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Everyday Umami Bomb
Tomatoes
Cheese
Mushrooms
AnchoviesBread
Sausage
PIZZA
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Everyday Umami Bomb
Shrimp
Fish Sauce
Egg
Peanuts
PAD THAI
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Everyday Umami BombCHEESEBURGER
BeefCheese
KetchupBacon
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Everyday Umami BombCHEESEBURGER
BeefCheese
KetchupBacon
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Everyday Umami BombCHEESEBURGER
BeefCheese
KetchupBacon
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Professional Umami Bomb
Chef Jean George Vongerichten, Jean George, NY
Parmesan Custard with White TrufflesWith Umami from
• Parmiggiano Reggiano Cheese
• Shaved white truffles
• Egg
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Professional Umami BombSpicy Sour ShrimpWith umami from: • Shrimp • Fermented bean paste • Soy sauce • Enoki mushrooms
Chef Nobu Matsuhisa, Nobu, 12 locations worldwide
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Professional Umami BombPea Cakes and Salsa With umami from: • Peas (lima, pink eyes, etc.) • Corn bread • Eggs • Tomatoes
Chef Frank Stitt, Highlands Bar & Grill, Birmingham, Alabama
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Professional Umami Bomb
My Father’s Famous Shrimp Hors d’oeuvresWith Umami from: • Shrimp • Blue cheese
Chef Lydia Shire, Locke-Ober, Boston
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Professional Umami BombMushrooms in Potato ShellsWith umami from:• Dried wild mushrooms • Fresh shiitakes and chanterelles• Tomato • Soy sauce• Potatoes
Chef Hubert Keller, Fleur de Lys, San Francisco and Las Vegas
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Professional Umami BombRoast Pork with White BeansWith umami from: • Pork• Bacon• White beans • Chicken broth • Tomatoes
Chef Bradley Ogden, Lark Creek Inn, Larkspur CA, Bradley Ogden, Las Vegas
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
NYT: Best Restaurant in America
Grilled sashimi of chanterelle and shiitake mushrooms
Potato chips with black truffle shavingsOkinawan style braised pork
(Boston baked heirloom rice beans, homemade kimchee)
Sake braised short ribs(Dashi soy simmered potatoes)
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Umami Café
Cubano Spring Rolls Thai Style Veggie Spring Rolls
Crabby Patties Tomato and Corn Summer Salad
Truffled Mac and Cheese Portabello Veggie Stack
Penne Pasta with porcini cream sauce Shrimp Adobo
Achiote marinated skirt steak with French fries
Chef Jonathan Pratt
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Adding Umami to Your Menu
• Think umami at all times
• Incorporate Asian and Mediterranean ingredients and ideas
• Explore unique umami combinations
• Consider umami boosters
• Tell guests your food is umami
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Conclusion
• Taste is a biological imperative• People crave attractive tastes:
sweet, salty and umami • We enjoy aversive tastes:
sour and bitter • Balancing tastes, aromas, textures
is key to success
Copyright 2008 David Kasabian
Finally
Whatever you do, don’t forget the umami.
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