american mountain guides association - lauren di scipio

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AMERICAN MOUNTAIN GUIDES ASSOCIATION

National Office Staff

POBox1739,Boulder,CO80306•Phone:(303)271-0984Fax:(303)271-1377•Email:[email protected]•Web:www.amga.com

Diamond Partners 2007

Aspirant guides Tim Brown and Rob Coppolilo topping out at the bivy site above Fisher Chimneys, Mt Shuksan during a guide training in the jagged peaks of North Cascades national Park, WA.Photo by Marcus Beck.

ExecutiveDirector:Mike Alkaitis [email protected]:Betsy Novak [email protected]:Henry Beyer [email protected]:Justin Yates [email protected]:Rob Hess [email protected]

TABLEOFCONTENTS

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AMGA Catalog 2007

AMGA Guide Education and Certification Program

AMGA Certification Track Flowchart

Program Update

Application Process

Programs Available to AMGA Members

Program Ratios and Maximum Enrollment

Program Goals

Aspirant Exam Overview

Assessment Categories

Program Prerequisites and Example Climbs

Definition of Mock Guiding

Top Rope Site Manager Flowchart

Top Rope Site Manager Program Overview

Top Rope Site Manager Certification

Rock Guide Flowchart

Rock Guide Program Overview

Rock Instructor Course

Rock Instructor Certification Exam

Rock Guide Course & Aspirant Exam Overview

Rock Guide Certification Exam Overview

Alpine Guide Flowchart

Alpine Program Overview

Alpine Guide Course Overview

Advanced Alpine Guide Course & Aspirant Exam

Alpine Guide Certification Exam

Ski Guide Flowchart

Ski Guide & Ski Mountaineering Guide Program

Overview

Ski Mountaineering Guide Course & Aspirant Exam

Ski Mountaineering Guide Certification Exam

Ice Climbing Course Overview

IFMGA Certified Guide Flowchart

Frequently Asked Questions

Membership Application

Course Application

Exam Application

Program Liability Waivers

Mountaineering

Program Resumes

2007 Program Schedule

[email protected] & [email protected] photo & photos.markusbeck

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AMGA ProgramsGUIDEEDUCATION&CERTIFICATION

The American Mountain Guides Association(AMGA)isa501(c)3non-profitorganizationthatrepresentstheinterestsofAmericanmountainguidesbyprovidingsupport,education,trainingandcertification.

TheAMGAistheonlyinternationallyrecognizedorganizationthatofferscomprehensiveandextensivetrainingandcertificationforrockclimbing,alpineclimbingandskimountaineeringguidesintheUnitedStates.TheAMGAisthesoleUnitedStatesmemberoftheInternationalFederationofMountainGuides(IFMGA)andworkscloselywiththeIFMGAtomakesuretheAMGAmaintainstheinternationalstandards.

Forthosepursuingacareerasaprofessionalguidetherecommendedpathforreceivingthehighestlevelofguidecertificationistofirst,enrollinentry-levelAMGAcourses,progressintotheadvancedlevelcoursesandaspirantexamsandthancompletecertificationbypass-ingthefinalexam.

The primary focuses of all AMGA programs areinstruction, application and assessment. OurInstructor Pool is made up of highly experiencedAMGAandIFMGACertifiedGuideswhohavebeenspecificallytrainedintheareasofpedagogy,techni-calassessment,studentevaluationandoutdooreth-ics. Our skilled guides demonstrate a high degreeof commitment to and responsibility of all AMGAprograms.CandidatesofAMGAcourseswilllearnhow to: effectively manage risks, maximize clientrewards, efficiently assess diverse terrains, buildupon professionalism, heighten instructional tech-niques, and competently apply technical systemsunderthetutelageofourskilledstaff.

OnceanAMGAmemberhaspassedall threecer-tificationexamsinthedisciplinesofrock,ski,andalpine, they receive International Federation ofMountain Guides Association (IFMGA) CertifiedGuide status, which in return allows them tobe licensed and recognized as a guide in allIFMGAmembercountries.ReceivingInternationalFederationofMountainGuidesAssociationGuideCertificationis thehighestcredentialavailableformountainguidesintheworld.

“The work of the guide implies abnegation.

The guide does not go where he wants to go,

but must go to the summit of which his client

has dreamed. The guide does not climb

for himself but primarily for the

pleasure of the companion he is leading.”

Gaston Rebuffat, �965

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AMGA CERTIFICATIONTRACkFLOWChART

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Application Deadlines:

ThereisnolongeranApplicationReviewDate(ARD).TheAMGAofficewillreceiveapplicationsfortheupcomingseasonatanypointintimeupuntil8weekspriortothestartdateofthecourseorexamyouareapplyingfor.Applicationswillbereviewedintheorderinwhichtheyarereceived.Applicationswillnotberevieweduntilallrequiredpaperwork,resumesandpaymentsarereceivedbytheAMGAoffice.

Ourgoalistohavespaceavailableforeachapplicantthatmeetstheprogramprerequisites.however,withtheincreaseindemandofAMGAprogramsthisisnotalwayspossible.Therefore,itiscriticalthatyouprovideacompleteandprofessionalapplicationforeachprogramyouwishtoenrollbytheeight-weekdeadline.Pleaserefertothe2007ProgramSchedulepage30forcourseandexamdates.

Application Fee:

A$100non-refundableapplicationfeewillbedeductedfromyourprogramdeposit.Yourapplicationfeewillonlyberefundedif:youdonotreceiveenrollmentstatusintheprogramyouappliedfor,youareplacedonawaitlistandaspacedoesnotbecomeavailable,oriftheAMGAcancelstheprogramyouareenrolledin.

Program Deposit:

Acourseorexamdepositmustbesubmittedwiththeapplication.Programdepositis25%ofthefullcourseorexamcost.Applicationsthatdonotincludedepositwillnotberevieweduntilpaymentisreceived.Pleasenotethata$100non-refundableapplicationfeewillbedeductedfromyourprogramdeposit.

Accepted Applications:

Onceyourapplicationisacceptedyouwillreceiveanemailletterofacceptance.Sixweekspriortothestartofthecourseorexamyouareenrolledinapacketofprograminformationwillbemailedtoyou.Thepacketwillinclude:programmanual,roster,locationmap,pastcourseitinerary,andlocallodging/campingresources.Unlessyouhavestatedotherwise,theAMGAofficewillusetheaddresslocatedonyourcourseorexamapplicationformailing.PleaseinformtheAMGAofficeifyouarenotgoingtobeatthisaddresssixweekspriortothestartdateyourcourseorexam.

Onceyourapplicationisreceivedyourdepositwillbeprocessed.IfyouarenotacceptedintotheprogramyouwillreceiveafullrefundofyourdepositunlessyouareplacedontheWaitList.Pleaseseebelowforinformationregarding:waitlist,refundsorcancellationpolicies.

Wait List:

Oncethecourseorexamhasreachedfullcapacityremainingapplicantswhoarenotenrolledwillbeplacedonawaitlist.Ifyouarewaitlistedandspacebecomesavailableinthecourseorexamyouappliedforyouwillbecontactedimmediatelytoseeifyouarestillavailabletotaketheprogram.Applicantshavetheoptionoftakingthemselvesoffofthewaitlistatanytimeandwillreceivefullrefundofdepositand$100.00applicationfee.PleasenotethatyouarenotenrolledinanAMGAcourseorexamuntilyouarecontactedbytheAMGAoffice,takenoffthewaitlist,andofficiallyenrolledinthecourseorexamyouappliedfor.

Cancellation Policy and Refund:

InordertoreceivearefundofpaymentfordroppingoutofacourseorexamyoumustlettheAMGAofficeknowyourdecision6weekspriortothestartoftheprogram.Oncethe6-weekmarkhaspastNOrefundswillbeissuedregardlessofthecauseofcancellation,thisincludesinjuriessobecareful!Pleaserememberthata$100.00applicationfeewillbedeductedfromyourprogrampaymentandwillonlyberefundedif:youdidnotreceiveenrollmentstatusintheprogramyouappliedfor,youwereplacedonawaitlistandaspacedidnotbecomeavailable,ortheAMGAcancelstheprogramyouareenrolledin.Tripcancellationinsuranceisrecommendedtorecoverfeeslostduetoinjuryorotherfactors.

AMGA PROGRAMUPDATE

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Payment:

TheAMGAofficemustreceiveyourfullcourseorexampayment6weekspriortothestartofthecourseorexamyouareenrolledin.

IF PAYMENT IS NOT RECEIVED BY THAT TIME YOU WILL NOT BE ALLOWED TO PARTICIPATE IN THE PROGRAM.

Programpricesarefortuitiononly.Anyexpenses,includingcamping,lodging,mealsand/ortransportationcostsbefore,duringorafteracourseorexamaretheresponsibilityoftheparticipant.InordertorunAMGAprogramsprofessionallyandefficientlyitisimportantthatallmaterialsandpaymentsarereceivedbytherequireddeadlinedates.

Post Course and Exam Paperwork:

AfteryouhavecompletedyourAMGAcourseorexamyouwillreceivebymail:yourofficialcoursecompletioncertificateoryourexamcertificationcertificate,yourcomplimentaryAMGAT-shirt(ifrequestedonapplicationform),andacopyofyourstudentevaluation.PleaserememberthatAMGAinstructorshavetwoweeksfromthecoursecompletiontosubmittheirpost-coursepaperwork.Oncetheofficereceivesandprocessesthepost-coursepaperworkamailingwillbesenttoallcandidates.

Prices,programdates,ratios,andlocationsaresubjecttochangewithoutnotice.Pricesaresubjecttochangedependingoncourseenrollment.Ifacourseorexamdoesnotmeettheminimumratiotheoriginalcostmayvaryortheprogrammaybecanceled.

wayne crill & kevin gallagher . diamond approach, long’s peak, palm sunday . 2004

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AMGA PROGRAMUPDATE

AMGA APPLICATIONPROCESS

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How to apply:

q Step �:ReviewCourseCatalog.

q Step 2:SubmitMembershipApplication.AllparticipantsofAMGAcoursesandexamsmustbecurrentmembersoftheAMGA.ToenrollinadvancedlevelcoursesorexamscandidatesmustbeanIndividualorCertifiedIndividualMemberoftheAMGA.

q Step �:SelectCourseorExamyouwanttoapplyfor.

q Step �:Reviewprerequisitesforcourseorexamyouwanttoapplyfor.

q Step 5:(Step5-9shouldbecompletedatthesametime)IfyoumeettheprerequisitessubmitcompletedCourseorExam

ApplicationFormlocatedonpage44-47.

q Step 6:IncludesignedcopyofAMGALiabilityWaiverlocatedonpage48-51.

q Step 7:EMAILcopiesofrequiredpersonal,guided/mockguided,[email protected]

resumeslocatedonpages52-57.

q Step 8:Includecopiesofrequiredcertifications(MedicalforallcoursesandExamsandAvalancheTrainingfortheAdvancedAlpineGuideCourse,AlpineGuideExam,andallSkicoursesandexams).

q Step 9:Includeprogramdepositintheformofcheck,moneyorder,orcreditcardinformation

(depositis%25ofprogramtuition).TosecureyourspotinanAMGAProgramthedepositisrequiredinadditiontoyourapplica-

tion,resumes,andsignedwaiver.

Please mail all required application

paperwork and payments to:

AMGAAttention: AMGA ProgramsPO BOX �7�9Boulder, CO 80�06

Pleaseemailpersonal,guided/mockguidedandupdatedresumes,aswellas,documentationofpriorcoursecompletionrecommendations(ifyouhavesuccessfullycompleteabasicoradvancedlevelAMGAcourse)totheAMGA Program Director: Betsy Novak at [email protected]

bill ramsey . the hood, mt. charleston, nv . 2006

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The AMGA offers a variety of instructionalprogramsintheareasofrockclimbing,alpineclimbingandskimountaineeringandtouring.

The Top Rope Site Manager Programis the first course in the AMGA sequence of climb-ing instructor and guide trainingprograms.TheTopRopeSiteManagerProgramtrainsoutdoorinstructors,aspiring guides and climbers who facilitate or seektofacilitatetopropeclimbingprogramsingroupset-tingssuchascamps,schools,universities,therapeuticgroups,andclimbingschools.

The Rock Program trains and examinesaspiringguidesandexperiencedguideswhowork ina variety of rock environments, including areaswithlong, complex routes and technical descents. Therearetwolevelsofrockcertification,thefirstistheRockInstructor Certification and the second is the RockGuideCertification.To receive AMGA certification as a Rock Instructor you must1stsuccessfullycompletethe10-dayRockInstructorCourse2ndPassthe6-dayRockInstructorExam.

To receive AMGA certification as a Rock Guide you must:1stsuccessfullycompletethe10-dayRockInstructorCourse.2ndsuccessfullycompleteandpassthe10-dayRockGuideCourseandAspirantExam.3rdPassthe6-dayRockGuideCertificationExam.

The Alpine Program providestrainingforaspir-ingguidesandexperiencedguideswhoworkinawiderangeofalpineenvironments,includingalpinerock,mixedterrain,alpine ice,glaciated terrain,waterfall iceandhigh-altitudeascents.TheAlpineGuideProgramisa4-stepprogram.

To Receive Certification as an Alpine Guide You Must: 1stsuccessfullycompletethe10-dayRockInstructorCourse2ndsuccessfullycompletethe10-dayAlpineGuideCourse3rdsuccessfullycompleteandpassthe12-dayAdvancedAlpineGuideCourseandAspirantExam4thPassthefinal10-dayAlpineCertificationExam

The Ski Program offers trainingforaspiringguidesandexperiencedguideswhoworkinadiverserangeofskienvironments,includingbackcountryskitouring,skimountaineering,heli-skiing,andsnowcatskiing.TheSkiGuideProgramisa3-stepprogram.

To receive AMGA certification as a Ski Mountaineering Guide you must1stsuccessfullycompletethe12-daySkiGuideCourse.2ndsuccessfullycompleteandpassthe10-daySkiMountaineeringGuideCourseandAspirantExam.3rdPassthe8-daySkiMountaineeringCertificationExam.

AMGA PROGRAMSAVAILABLETOAMGAMEMBERS

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AMGA PROGRAMRATIOS

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Below are the set program ratios and enrollment sizes for each course or exam.

Rock Discipline

TopRopeSiteManager-6:1ratioand12participantmaximum

RockInstructorCourse-3:1ratioand9participantmaximumRockInstructorExam-2:1ratioand8participantmaximumRockGuideCourseandAspirantExam-3:1ratioand9participantmaximumRockGuideExam-2:1ratioand8participantmaximum

Alpine DisciplineAlpineGuideCourse-3:1ratioand9participantmaximumAdvancedAlpineGuideCourseandAspirantExam-3:1ratioand9participantmaximumAlpineGuideExam-2:1ratioand8participantmaximum

Ski DisciplineSkiGuideCourse-5:1ratioand10participantmaximumSkiMountaineeringGuideCourseandAspirantExam-4:1ratioand8participantmaximumSkiMountaineeringGuideExam-4:1ratioand8participantmaximum

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AMGA PROGRAMGOALS

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Due to the complex demand,technicalaspectsandnatureofallAMGAprogramswehavedevelopedastrictsetofrequiredskillsthateachcandidatemustfeelcomfortableutilizinginaleadershiprole.Wehopetoensurethattheseprerequisitesenableyoutoadequatelyprepareforthedemandsoftheprogramyouareapplyingforandtohelpensurethesafetyofallotherparticipants.

PleaserespecttheprerequisitesandbesureyourclimbingandbackcountrytravelskillsarewelldevelopedbeforeyouapplyforanAMGAprogram.Wedonotcovertechniquescommontorecreationalclimbingorskiing.Theseskillsareassumedandareessentialprerequisites.

CoursesTheprimarygoalofeducationalcoursesistoprovidecomprehensivetrainingandevaluationbyofferingahands-on-learningenviron-menttoallstudents.AMGAcoursescreateaneffectivelearningenvironmentbycombiningstructuredlectures,skillsstations,dem-onstrations,immediatefeedback,constructiveevaluationandpracticalguidingexperience.Duringtheadvancedlevelcoursesyouwillspendasignificantamountoftimeinaleadershippositioninwhichyouguideorinstructparticipantsandinstructors.

Certification ExamTheprimarygoalofthecertificationexamistoassessrock,alpineandskiguidesattheAMGAandIFMGAinternationalstandards.Duringtheexamyouwillbeexpectedtocarryoutguidingassignmentsgiventoyoubytheexaminers.Eachparticipantwillbeexpect-edtoserveastheguidetotheexaminerandothercandidatesonrouteschosenfortheircomplexguidingchallenges.Yourdutiesasaguidewillincluderouteplanning,clientorientation,campcraft(forAlpineandSki),andriskassessmentandmanagement.Thefinaldayoftheexamincludesapersonaldebriefandevaluationbytheexaminers.

Aspirant ExamThe primary goal of theAspirant Guide Programistoserveasaninterme-diate step in the processof becoming a certifiedguide.TheAspirantExamoccursasanintegralpartof the AMGA advancedlevel courses and is spe-cific to the discipline ofthecourse. It is intendedto help determine thata candidate’s guidingskills meet the minimumstandards appropriatefor professional guidingandservesaspreparationfor the final certificationexam. The standard fortheAspirantGuideExamis at a level appropriateforguidingclientsprofes-sionallywithonlyindirectsupervision.

Furthermore,theessentialskills and abilities of theAspirantGuideneedtobecomparable to those of a

fullguide.

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AMGA ASPIRANTEXAMOVERVIEW

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What is the Aspirant Exam?TheAspirantExamisa3-daylongassessmentexamthatwilloccurduringthelast3-daysoftheRockGuideCourse,theAdvancedAlpineGuideCourseandtheSkiMountaineeringGuideCourse.TheAspirantExamisdesignedtohelpdetermineifacandidate’spersonalskillsmeettheminimumstandardsappropriateforguiding,andtoserveaspreparationforthefinalCertificationExam.Aspirant ObjectivesTheAdvancedLevelCoursesaredividedintotwoeducationalcomponents.Thefirstcomponentis instruction,whichtakesupthemajorityofthecourseandinvolvesmentoringonrealobjectives,lectures,andimmediatefeedback.The2ndeducationalcomponentisassessment,whichoccursduringthe3-daylongAspirantExamandinvolvesexaminationonrealobjectives.

GuideswhopasstheAspirantExamwillbecomeAMGAAspirantGuidesineithertheRock,AlpineorSkiMountaineeringdisciplines.OnceanindividualhassuccessfullycompletedtheRockGuideCourse,AdvancedAlpineGuideCourse,SkiMountaineeringCourse,andhaspassedtheRockGuideAspirantExam,theAdvancedAlpineAspirantExamandtheSkiMountaineeringAspirantExam,theyareeligibletoreceiveanaspirantcard.ThiscredentialallowsAspirantGuidestoworkforpayunderthesupervisionofanIFMGAguideinIFMGAmembercountries,whichhasproventobeextremelyhelpfulinthedevelopmentoftop-levelguides.

Aspirant StandardsThestandardforaspirantstatusissufficientlyhightopermittheAspirantGuidetoeffectivelyguideclientsinterrainandonroutesconsideredtobeattheinternationalstandardforthatdiscipline.AnAspirantisessentiallyaguidethatiscapableofguidingobjectiveswithindirectsupervisionbyanothercertifiedsupervisingguide.TheroleofthesupervisingguidemaybelimitedtohelpingdetermineappropriateassignmentsfortheAspirant.

Aspirant Exam ProcedureAspirantExamsoccur as an integralpart of theAMGA’sadvanced level courses andare specific to thedisciplineof thecourse.Instructionandcoachingwilloccurthroughoutthedurationoftheentireadvancedlevelcourse,whileassessmentandexaminationwilloccurduringthelatterdaysofthecourse.Theskillsthatwillbeassessedcanbedividedintotwocategoriesskillsthatarepre-requisitestothecourse,suchasmovementskills,routefinding,andhazardassessment,andskillsthatarelearnedanddevelopedduringtheadvancedlevelcourse.

AdvancedLevelCoursesarenowpass/failinnature.Skillsthatareaprerequisitetoenrollmentofthecoursewillbeassesseddur-ingthefirstfewdaysofthecourse.Ifacandidatedoesnotperformattherequiredlevelforcourseentrytheywillbedroppedfromtheadvancedcourseatthattimeandwillberequiredtoretaketheentirecourseatalaterdate.Skillsthatareanintegralpartofthecoursecurriculumwillbeexaminedatthecertificationexamlevelduringthefinal3daysofthecourse,afterthecandidatehashadopportunitytopracticethem.Ifacandidatedemonstratesacceptableperformanceonanyoftheassessmentdrillsearlyinthecoursetheycanbecheckedoffas“Pass”.IfacandidatedoesnotperformatthestandardonanyoftheAspirantExamobjectivestheywillberequiredtotakethe3-dayAspirantRe-examinationatalaterdate.

The final threedaysof theadvancedlevelcoursescandidateswillbe tested through“AssessmentDrills” thatarespecific toeachdiscipline.ke

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wayne crill, clayton reagan and kevin gallagher on the “clean dan memorial route” {layton kor, first ascent.}, royal gorge . 2004 by lauren di scipio

AMGA ASSESSMENTCATAGORIES

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The Assessment Drills examined during the Aspirant Exam for each discipline are:: Rock Guide Course-knotpassand45minuterockrescuedrill.Advanced Alpine Guide Course-knotpassand45minuterockrescuedrill.Ski Mountaineering Guide Course-Avalanchetransceiversearch,rescuesledloweringandraising,bivouacconstruction.

There are nine different skill areas common to guidingthatareassesseddailyduringallAMGAaspirantandcer-tificationexams.Theseareasarefurtherbrokendownintoothercategoriesofassessment.Differentemphasismaybeplacedonthevaryingcategoriesdependingontheexamdiscipline.TheassessmentcategoriesevaluatedduringcertificationexamsareRiskManagement,ClientCare,TechnicalSystems,Application,TerrainAssessment,MovementSkills,MountainSense,Professionalism,andInstructionalTechnique.

Risk ManagementClient Security-Thecandidatemustmaintainanadequatelevelofsecurityfortheclient(s)giventheobjectiveconditionsandtheclientprofile.Hazard Recognition/Analysis-Thecandidatemustrecognizeandanalyzehazardsthatwillaffectrisk,suchasobjectivehazardsandgeneralinternalandexternalhazards.Minimization of Risk-Thecandidatemustminimizeriskbyuseofallreasonable,appropriatemeasures.Guide Security-Thecandidatemustmaintainanadequatelevelofsecurityfortheguidegiventheobjectiveandconditions.

Client CareComfort-Thecandidatemustbeawareofcomfortlevelsandensuretheydonotcompromisesafety.Communication-Thecandidatemustclearly&professionallycommunicateinstructionsforasafe,comfortable&enjoyableexperience.Quality of Experience-Thecandidatemustprovidearewardingandenjoyableexperiencewithintheconfinesofconditions,riskmanagement,clientprofileandexamassignment.

Technical SystemsProtection/Anchors/Belays- Thecandidatemustunderstandandcorrectlyuseprotection,anchorandbelaytechniques.

Rappelling/Lowering-Thecandidatemustunderstandandcorrectlyuserappellingandloweringtechniques.Rope Management-Thecandidatemustunderstandandcorrectlyuseappropriate ropemanagement techniqueswhileusing

short-ropeandpitchedclimbingtechniques.

Short-Roping/Pitching-Thecandidatemustunderstandandcorrectlyuseshort-ropingandpitchingtechniques.Rescue Skills-Thecandidatemustunderstandandcorrectlyuserock,snow,and/orcrevasserescuesystemsandevacuation

dependingondiscipline.Navigation- (for Alpine and Ski only)

Thecandidatemustunderstandandcorrectlyusemap,compass,andaltimeter,aswellascreateandimplementaneffectiverouteplan.

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AMGA ASSESSMENTCATAGORIES

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Application Thecandidatemust“applytherighttechniqueintherightplaceattherighttime.”

Terrain AssessmentRoute Selection- Thecandidatemustassessassignedroutesandusealternativesifrequired.Routefinding-Thecandidatemustappropriatelyapproach,ascend,anddescendroutes.Tracksetting-Thecandidatemustsetacomfortable,effective,efficientandsafetrack(forskiandalpineonly).

Movement SkillsRock-Thecandidatemustdisplaysmooth,confidentandefficientmovementwhileprotecting,anchoringandbelaying.Capableofguidingrockat5.10b/clevel.

Alpine-Thecandidatemustdisplaysmooth,confidentandefficientmovementwhileprotecting,anchoring,andbelaying.Capableofguidingrocka5.10b/clevelinrockshoes,5.7inmountainbootsandiceatWI4.3rdand4thClassTerrain-Thecandidatemustdisplayefficient,safeandsecuremovementon3rdand4thclassterrain.

Ski-thecandidatemustdisplayefficientandconfidentskiingmovementandisabletolinkdynamicturnsinvariablebackcountrysnow.Capableofskiguidingonfirmsnowslopes45∞orsteeper,snowandiceclimbingonupto60∞terrain,andcomforton3rd,4thand5thclassrock.

Fitness and Stamina-Thecandidatemustbeabletocompletethedaysobjectiveandmaintainareasonablemarginofenergy.

Pace and Time Management-Thecandidatemustshowefficientuseoftimeandgoodpacegiventhedaysobjective,conditionsandclientprofile.

Mountain SenseDecision Making-Thecandidatemusteffectivelyidentify,actuponandcarryoutoptions.Stress Management-Thecandidatemustmanagestresswithoutundulycompromisingperformance.Error Correction-Thecandidatemustcorrecterrorsinduetime,withoutcompromisingsafety&withminimumdisruptionofactivity.

ProfessionalismPlanning/Preparation- The candidate must plan and prepare adequately for trips and activities. This includes research,knowledgeofoptionsandalternatives.Client Orientation-Thecandidatemustprovideadequateinformationtotheclient.Environmental Consciousness-Thecandidatemustexhibitcurrentenvironmentallysensitivebackcountrytravelandclimb-ingpractices.

Instructional TechniquesLesson Planning-Thecandidatemustuseanimplementappropriatelessonplansandteachingprogressions.Pedagogy-Thecandidatemustunderstandanduseavarietyofteachingmethodsthatareadaptabletolearnertypesandcommu-nicateclearlywithapositiveattitude.

Coaching Tips-Thecandidatemustprovideappropriatecoachingandtipstoassistmakingacomfortableandrewardingexperience.laur

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kevin murphy on an old layton kor route, royal gorge . wayne crill & kevin gallagher sort gear for peru in eldo . aron ralston tests some ‘new gear’ near independence pass, co . 2005 by lauren di scipio

AMGA PREREQUISITES&EXAMPLECLIMBS

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Program PrerequisitesTheprerequisiteslistedinthiscatalogarepresentedasminimumrequirements.AhighlevelofclimbingandskiingexperienceandexpertiseisassumedforthosewhoenterAMGAprograms.Courseparticipantsareoftenputinleadershiprolesondifficultroutes.Yourpersonalclimbingandskiingexperienceenablesyoutodealwiththenormalchallengesassociatedwithseriousoutdoorpursuits.Theroleoftheprerequisitesistoensurethatallcourseparticipantspossesstheclimbingabilityandbackgroundneededtofullypar-ticipateinallaspectsofthecoursewithoutendangeringorlimitingotherparticipants.

Example ClimbsThefollowinglistofclimbsexemplifiesthelengthanddifficultyofroutesthatareexpectedinyourapplicationresume.IfyourresumelacksasignificantnumberofdiverseclimbsyoushouldseektoexpandyourpersonalclimbingrepertoirebeforetakingontheaddedchallengesAMGAcourseswillpresent.

Rock Instructor CourseBastilleCrack5.8,EldoradoCanyon,COVertigo5.9,CannonCliff,NhBookofSolemnity5.10a,CathedralLedge,NhStraight&Narrow5.10a,ShortoffMountain,NC

Rock Guide CourseMainliner5.9IV,SundanceButtress,EstesPark,COJourneyhome5.10IV,BlackCanyon,COIntiWantana5.10IV,RedRocks,NVOriginalRoute5.10cIV,Whitesides,NC

Alpine Guide CourseCompleteExumRidge5.7IV,GrandTeton,WYStettnersLedges5.7tokeiners5.4VAIII,RMNP,COMtMendelCouliorIIIAIIII,TheSierraNevada

Advanced Alpine Guide CourseNorthRidgeofForbiddenfromBostonBasin5.9IV,N.Cascades,WAColemanheadwallIVAIIV,MountBaker,WANorthFaceofShuksanEastRidge5.6IVAIIII,N.Cascades,WA

Ski Guide CourseJackson,WYCrestedButte,COTheSierra,CA

Ski Mountaineering Guide CourseLaGrave,FranceValdez,AkNorthCascades,WAth

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AMGA DEFINITIONOFMOCkGUIDING

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Between courses and exams candidates are required to gain additional experiencetopreparethem-selvesfortheadvancedlevelcoursesorexams.Candidateshavetheoptionofcompletingaselectnumberofeitherguidingormockguidingdayspertheprerequisites.Amockguideddayoccurswhenacandidateactsasaguidetoanon-payingcohort.Mockguideddaysshouldbeperformedinthesamemannerasapaiddayofprofessionalguidingwherethenon-payingcohortactsastheclient.Togainfullvaluefromthislearningexperiencethecandidateshouldremaininroleasguidetheentireduration,solvingallproblemsfromaguidingperspective.Ifacandidatestepsoutofroleastheguide,orhastoasktheclienttostepoutofrole,thatdayshouldnotbedocumentedasamockguideday.Candidatesareexpectedtoclearlydocumentallmockguideddaysontheirresumes.

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AMGA TOPROPESITEMANAGERFLOWChART

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TOP ROPE PROGRAM

WWW.AMGA.COM

AMGA Certifi ed Top Rope

Site Manager

Candidates that have suc-cessfully completed the 40 hour TRSM Course can elect to take the one day certifi ca-tion exam at anytime up to 3 years after course comple-tion.

Top Rope SiteManager Certifi cation

Exam

Certifi cation is valid for three years providing the AMGA Top Rope Site Man-ager is a current member of the AMGA and holds valid First Aid Certifi cation.

The Top Rope Site Manager Recertifi cation consists of a two day course; one day curriculum review and one day evaluation.

Top Rope Site Manager CourseCourse fees include one-year AMGA Associate Member-ship dues.

AMGA Programs

The AMGA Top Rope Site

Manager Course

(TRSM)emphasizesthe

technicalandeducation

proficiencynecessaryto

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instructrockclimbingand

climbingrelatedactivities

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TOPROPESITEMANAGERPROGRAM

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To Receive AMGA Certification as a Top Rope Site Manager You Must:

1stsuccessfullycompletethe4-dayTopRopeSiteManagerCourse2ndpassthefinalTopRopeSiteManagerCertificationExam

Course AreaContractprovidersofferTopRopeSiteManagerCoursesthroughouttheUnitedStates.TRSMcourseareasaredecidedbythecontractprovidersandvarydependingoncourselocation.FormoreinformationwithregardstoavailabilityofTRSMcoursesandlocationspleasevisittheAMGAwebsitewww.amga.com.

Course LengthTheTopRopeSiteManagerCourseis4-daysinlengthwitheitheraoneortwodaylongcertificationexam(2daysifyourcertificationexamisnottakenwithyouroriginalcourseinstructor).ThecertificationexamfortheTRSMcoursecanbetakenimmediatelyafterthesuccessfulcompletionofthecourseoranytimeupto3yearsafterthecourse.Timeforconsolidationandpracticeofnewskillslearnedishighlyrecommendedandcandidatesthattaketimebetweenthecourseandexamcommonlydobetterontheexam.

Prerequisites for the Top Rope Site Manager Course

Youhaveatleast2yearspriorclimbingexperience.Provideapersonalrockresumeshowingthefollowing:

Youhaveatleast40daysofrecreationalclimbingand/orclimbinginstructioninthepast2yearsoryouhaveaminimumof5yearsclimbingexperience.

Youareabletosafelyandcomfortablysetuptopropeclimbs,belaystationsandrappelstationswithoutguidance.Youarefamiliarwithbasicanchoringprinciplesbothnaturalandartificialanchors(wedges,hexes,passiveandactivecams).Youarecapableofcomfortablyclimbingupto5.8terrainwhileontoprope.YoupossessthepersonalequipmentnecessaryfortheTRSMcourse(rope,artificialgearrack,runners,Cordelettes,belaydevicesandanchorline,etc).Traditionalleadclimbingexperienceishighlyrecommendedbutnotrequired.ProvidecopyofcurrentbasicfirstaidandCPRcertifications.Youareatleast18yearsofage

Skills taught and developed during the Top Rope Site Manager CourseGuideskillsandtechniqueEquipmentselectionBelaysystemsandback-upbelaymethodsBelaytransfersknotsRappellingmethodsEffectiveanchoringtechniquesEdgemanagementSinglepitchrescueEstablishingandmanagingredirectedandtraditionaltopropesiteshazardevaluationandriskmanagementLegalandethicalexpectationsandresponsibilitiesTeachingmethodologyEffectivestudentcoachingLeaveNoTrace

If you are unsure of your skill levels please contact the AMGA National Office at �0�-27�-098� or your local Top Rope Site Manager Course Provider for further guidance.

AMGA TOPROPESITEMANAGERCERTIFICATION

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AMGA ROCkGUIDEFLOWChART

19

Rock Guide PRoGRam

www.amga.com

Rock Guide Flowchart

Rock guide course& aspirant Exam

Rock GuideCertification Exam

Rock InstructorCertification Exam

Rock Instructorcourse

Guides pursuing Rock Guide Certification or IFMGA Mountain Guide Certification may elect to skip the Rock Instructor Certification Exam.

Rock Instructor Certifica-tion is for those who’s guid-ing is on shorter routes, up to about Grade III.

Rock Guide Certification is one of the components required for IFMGA recognition.

20

AMGA ROCkGUIDEPROGRAM

The Rock Program trains and examines aspiring guides and experienced guideswhoworkinavarietyofrockenvironments,includingareaswithlong,complexroutesandtechnicaldescents.Currently,therearetwolevelsofrockcertification.ThefirstistheRockInstructorCertification.ItisdesignedforguidesoraspiringguideswhoworkonroutesthatareGradeIIIorshorter.Whiletheseroutesaremulti-pitch,theyarerelativelystraightforwardandmaynotinvolvecomplexapproachesand/ordescents.Timefactors,whileimportant,arenotaspressingontheseroutes.DuringtheRockInstructorCertificationExamcandidateswillbeexam-inedonclimbsthroughGradeIII.

To receive AMGA certification as a Rock Instructor you must1stsuccessfullycompletethe10-dayRockInstructorCourse2ndPassthe6-dayRockInstructorExam.

The second level is the Rock Guide Certification.ItisdesignedforguidesoraspiringguideswhoworkonroutesthatareGradeIVorV.Participantswillbeexpectedtodisplayfullcompetenceinareassuchasshortropingandmultiple-clientguiding.CandidatesdonothavetotaketheRockInstructorExamtoapplyfortheRockGuideCourseandcontinueontheRockGuideCertificationtrack.

To receive AMGA certification as a Rock Guide you must:1stsuccessfullycompletethe10-dayRockInstructorCourse.2ndsuccessfullycompleteandpassthe10-dayRockGuideCourseandAspirantExam.3rdPassthe6-dayRockGuideCertificationExam.

ROCK INSTRUCTOR COURSE OVERVIEWTheRockInstructorCourseisthe1ststepintheRockGuideeducationandcertificationprocessandisdesignedforaspiringguideswhohaveastrongrockclimbingbackgroundandforinstructorswhoareinterestedinimprovingtheirskillsandincreasingknowl-edge.TheRockInstructorCourseplacesstrongemphasisonmaximizingclientrewardswhileeffectivelymanagingrisks.TheRockInstructorCourseisaprerequisitetotakingtheRockGuideCourseandtheAlpineGuideCourse.

Course AreaTheRockInstructorCoursetrainsaspiringguidesonroutesuptoGradeIIIinlengthand5.10aindifficulty.Courseareasinclude,butarenotlimitedto,JoshuaTreeNationalPark,EldoradoStatePark,LumpyRidge,Crowder’sMountainStatePark,Shawngunks,andCathedralLedge.

Course LengthThe Rock Instructor Course is 10-days in length and is a prerequisite to taking the Rock Guide Course, and the Alpine GuideCourse.

Prerequisites for Rock Instructor CourseYouareacurrentAssociateMemberoftheAMGA.Youhaveatleast5yearsofrockclimbingexperience.Provideapersonalclimbingresumeshowingeachofthefollowing:

Thatyouhaveledorsharedleadonatleast50differentmulti-pitchtraditionalroutes,5ofwhichshouldbeGradeIII4ofwhichshouldbeGradeIVorlonger.10ofwhichshouldbetraditionalroutesrated5.10aorharderonvariousrocktypes.

Youcansafelyandcomfortablyleadcrackandfaceclimbsrated5.10aatthetimeofthecourse.Youarefamiliarwithbasicknots,includingfigure-8,bowline,clovehitch,munterhitch,mule-hitch,prussik,doublefisherman’sandklem-heist.Youareconfidentwithplacingtraditionalprotectionincludinghexes,stoppers,tri-cams,andSCLD’s.Youarecomfortableusingmechanical(morethantwotypesofbelaydevicesincludingautolockingdevices)andnon-mechanical(hipbelay)belaymethods.Youarefamiliarwiththeuseofplatetypedevicesonmulti-pitchrappels.Providecopyofcurrentbasicfirstaidcertificationorbetter.Youareatleast18yearsofage.


2�

Skills taught and developed during the Rock Instructor Course:ClientorientationandpreparationEquipmentandprotectionselectionTimeandpacemanagementDescendingtechniquesImprovisednon-mechanicalascendingAnchorconstructionChoosingappropriatebelaymethodsandstancesMulti-pitchstationmanagementRappellingandloweringwithclientsMultipleclientguidingShortropingandshortpitchingtechniquesBelayescapesRaisingsystemsforguidinghazardrecognitionandriskmanagementGuide’snotebookImprovisedharnessesGuide’spackClientcareEmergencyproceduresPedagogyLeaveNoTracepracticesandtechniquesReviewofAdvancedRockGuideCourseandAspirantExamassessmentremove

ROCK INSTRUCTOR EXAM OVERVIEWThe Rock Instructor Exam is the 2nd step in the Rock Instructor Certification process. The Rock Instructor Exam certifies rockinstructorsthatdemonstrateahighlevelofexpertiseconsistentwiththestandardsintroducedinthe10-dayRockInstructorCourse.Basicshort-ropingskillsmustbedemonstrated.Theexamservesbothtoassessandeducate.Dailydebriefsandcritiquesprovideanopportunityforimprovingguidingskills.

Thefirst5daysoftheexamareconductedonrouteschosenbytheexaminers.Duringtheclimbsparticipantsserveasguidestotheexaminersandotherparticipantsandwillencountercomplexguidingandroute-findingsituationsthroughgradeIIIclimbs.Participantsarerequiredtosolveaspecificrescuescenarioatascheduledtime.Detailsareavailablefromtheoffice.Inaddition,imprompturescuesituationscanoccuratanytimeduringtheexam.Throughouttheexam,particularfocusisplacedonclientandguidesecurity.

Rock Instructor Certification is designed forguidesoraspiringguideswhoworkonroutesthatareGradeIIIorshorter.Whiletheseroutesaremulti-pitch,theyarerelatively straightforward and may not involve complexapproaches and/or descents. Time factors, while important,arenotaspressingontheseroutes.DuringtheRockInstructorCertification Exam candidates will be examined on climbsthroughGradeIIIandupto5.10aindifficulty.

To receive AMGA certification as a Rock Instructor you must:1stsuccessfullycompletethe10-dayRockInstructorCourse2ndPassthe6-dayRockInstructorExam.

Exam AreaTheRockInstructorExamexaminesguidesinabroadrangeof skills essential to guiding in a variety of rock environ-ments.ExamareasincludebutarenotlimitedtoJoshuaTree,LumpyRidge,LookingGlass,CathedralLedgeandEldoradoCanyon.

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Rock Instructor Exam Overview Continued

Exam LengthTheRockInstructorExamis6-daysinlength.

Prerequisites for the Rock Instructor ExamYouareacurrentIndividualMemberoftheAMGA.YouhavesuccessfullycompletedtheRockInstructorCourse.Pleaseprovidedocumentationofcoursecompletiononprogramapplication.ProvidedocumentationofcompletedrecommendationsfromRockInstructorCourseevaluation.Provideanupdatedrockclimbingresumeshowingeachofthefollowing

SincecompletingtheRockInstructorCoursehaveledorsharedleadonatleast7routesGradeIII.SincecompletingtheRockInstructorCourseyouhaveledorsharedleadonatleast3routesGradeIV.SincecompletingtheRockInstructorCourseyouhaveled10differenttraditionalroutesrated5.10aorharder.

Youcansafelyandcomfortablyleadcrackandfaceclimbsrated5.10aA0orharderatthetimeoftheexam.YoucopyofcurrentWildernessFirstRespondercertification,WildernessEMTorEMT.

An AMGA Certified Rock Instructor should be able toOnsightguide2clientsata5.10aleveluptoandthroughgradeIIIClimbtraditionalandsportprotectedclimbsata5.10alevelfluidlyandcomfortably.Demonstrateagoodknowledgeofindustrystandardequipment.Createandimplementimprovisedrescueinverticalterrain.Demonstrateaworkingknowledgeofshort-roping.Demonstrateproficiencyofterrainassessment,potentialhazards,riskmanagementandclientcare.ShowanunderstandingandpracticeofLeaveNoTrace.

ROCK GUIDE COURSE/ ASPIRANT EXAM OVERVIEWTheRockGuideCourseandAspirantExamisthe2ndstepintherockguidingeducationandcertificationprocess.TheRockGuideCourseisdesignedtoincludeallRockInstructorlevelterrainaswellasclimbsofmuchgreaterlengthincluding,butnotlimitedto,bigwall,aidclimbs,andclimbswheresignificantshortropingisnecessarytosafeguardclientsonapproachesand/ordescents.TheRockGuideCoursecoversthetoolsusedwhenguidingandinstructingmultipleclientsonlongerroutesuptoGradeVinlength.Italsocoversmanagementof3rdand4thclassterrain,technicaldescents,simultaneousmulti-clientbelaying,loweringandrappelling,managementof transitions,andshort ropingandshortpitching techniques.Emphasis isplacedoneffectivelymanaging risksandmaximizingclientrewards.

All candidates must have successfully completed the Rock Instructor Course in order to be considered for enrollment into the Rock Guide Course.

Course AreaTheRockGuideCoursetrainsguidesinabroadrangeofskillsessentialtoguidinginavarietyofrockenvironments,includingareaswith longandcomplex routes.Courseareas includebutarenot limited toRedRocksNationalConservationArea,BlackCanyonNationalPark,andEldoradoCanyonStatePark.

Course LengthTheRockGuideCourseandAspirantExamis10-daysinlength.Thefinal3-daysofthecoursewillbetheaspirantexam.

Rock Guide Aspirant ExamTheAspirantGuideProgramisdesignedtoserveasanintermediatestepintheprocessofbecomingacertifiedguide.TheAspirantExamoccursasanintegralpartoftheAMGAadvancedlevelcoursesandisspecifictothedisciplineofthecourse.Itisintendedtohelpdeterminethatacandidate’spersonalskillsmeettheminimumstandardsappropriateforguidingandservesaspreparationforthefinalcertificationexam.ThestandardfortheAspirantGuideExamisatalevelappropriateforguidingclientsprofessionallywithonlyindi-rectsupervision.Furthermore,theessentialskillsandabilitiesoftheAspirantGuideneedtobecomparabletothoseofafullguide.

The Rock Guide Course will be divided into two components:Component Oneincludesinstructionandpracticalexperience.Component TwoAspirantExam


2�

During the Rock Guide Coursecandidateswillbeexpectedtocarryoutguidingassignmentsgivenbythecourseinstruc-tors.Themajorityofcoursetimeisspentwithstudentsleadingascentsanddescentsincomplexrockenvironments.Candidateswillserveasguidestotheinstructorsandothercourseparticipants.Duringthe3-dayRockAspirantExamcandidateswillbeassessedandexaminedontheirabilitytoperformspecificobjectivesonterrainandinconditionsappropriatetotherockdiscipline.

The Rock Guide Course is now pass/fail in nature.Skillsthatareaprerequisitetoenrollmentofthecoursewillbeassessedduringthefirstfewdaysofthecourse.Ifacandidatedoesnotperformattherequiredlevelforcourseentrytheywillbedroppedfromtheadvancedcourseatthattimeandwillberequiredtoretaketheentirecourseatalaterdate.

Skills that are an integral part of the course curriculumwillbeexaminedatthecertificationexamlevelduringthefinal3daysofthecourse,afterthecandidatehashadopportunitytopracticethem.Ifacandidatedemonstratesacceptableperformanceonanyoftheassessmentdrillsearlyinthecoursetheycanbecheckedoffas“Pass”.IfacandidatedoesnotperformatthestandardonanyoftheAspirantExamobjectivestheywillberequiredtotakethe3-dayAspirantRe-examinationatalaterdate.

Prerequisites for the Rock Guide CourseYouareacurrentIndividualMemberoftheAMGA.YouhavesuccessfullycompletedtheRockInstructorCourse.Pleaseprovidedocumentationofcoursecompletiononprogramapplication.ProvidedocumentationofcompletedrecommendationsfromRockInstructorCourseevaluation.Provideanupdatedrockclimbingresumeshowingeachofthefollowing

SincecompletingtheRockInstructorCourseyouhavemockguided/guided20daysonmulti-pitchroutesgradeIIIorlonger.SincecompletingtheRockInstructorCourseyouhaveledorsharedleadon10differenttraditionalroutesrated5.10corharder.SincecompetingtheRockInstructorCourseyouhaveledorsharedleadonatleast5gradeIVorlonger.

Youcansafelyandcomfortablyleadcrackandfaceclimbsrated5.10corharderatthetimeofthecourse.ProvidecopyofcurrentWildernessFirstRespondercertification,WildernessEMTorEMT.

A mock guided day occurswhenacandidateactsasaguidetoanon-payingcohort.Mockguideddaysshouldbeperformedinthesamemannerasapaiddayofprofessionalguidingwherethenon-payingcohortactsastheclient.Ifacandidatestepsoutofroleastheguide,orhastoasktheclienttostepoutofrole,thatdayshouldnotbedocumentedasamockguideday.Candidatesareexpectedtoclearlydocumentallmockguideddaysontheirresumes.

Skills taught and developed during the Rock Guide CourseAdvancedshort-ropingandshortpitchingtechniquesforsingleandmulti-clientscenariosRefinementofapplicationskillsGreaterefficiencywithcomplextransitionsbetweenclimbing,shortroping,shortpitching,lowering,andrappellingGreaterefficiencyguidingmultipleclientsonlongermoredemandingroutesDecisionmakinginacomplexenvironmentClientsecurityandguidesecurityAbroaderunderstandingofriskmanagementEffectivepaceandtimemanagementStressmanagementErrorcorrectionPedagogyCoachingtipsandeffectivecommunication

Skills assessed during the Rock Guide Aspirant ExamMovementSkillsknotpassRescuesystems

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Rock Guide Certification Exam Overview

The goals of the 6-day Rock Guide Certification Examare toassess rock-climbingguidesat theAMGAandIFMGAinternationalstandardsandtofurtherthegeneraleducationoftheexamcandidates.

During the examcandidateswillbeexpectedtocarryoutguidingassignmentsgivenbytheexaminers.Candidateswillserveasguides to theexaminersand to theotherparticipantsonrouteschosen for theircomplexguidingchallenges.Candidatesactingasaguidewillberesponsible for routeplanning,clientorientation, riskmanagementandnormalguidingpractices.Routeor tourassignmentswillusuallybegiventhenightbefore.Clientprofileswillalsobeexplained.Candidateswillberesponsibleforobtaininginformationregardingtheassignedrouteandalternativeroutesiftheoriginalobjectiveprovesinfeasible.

Daily debriefs and critiques provide an opportunity for improving guiding skills.Thelongerroutes(GradeIVandV)undertakenontheRockGuideCertificationExamrequireproficiencywithmulti-clientbelayingtechniques,strongapplicationskills,efficientclimbingandprotectivesystemsskillsandquickandaccuratetransitions.AheavieremphasisisplacedonexpertiseinshortropingclientsonlongerroutesthanintheRockInstructorCertificationExam.Thefinaldayoftheexamwillincludepersonaldebriefandexamevaluation.

In order to receive AMGA certification as a Rock Guide you must1stsuccessfullycompletethe10-dayRockInstructorCourse2ndsuccessfullycompleteandpassthe10-dayRockGuideCourseandAspirantExam3rdPassthe6-dayRockGuideCertificationExam

Prerequisites for Rock Guide Certification ExamYouareacurrentIndividualMemberoftheAMGA.YouhavesuccessfullycompletedtheRockGuideCourse,whichrequiresthatyouhavepassedtheAspirantExam.Pleaseprovidedocumentationofcoursecompletiononprogramapplication.ProvidedocumentationofcompletedrecommendationsfromRockGuideCourseevaluation.Provideanupdatedrockclimbingresumeshowingeachofthefollowing

SincecompletingtheRockGuideCourseandAspirantExamyoumockguided/guided20daysonmulti-pitchtraditionalroutes3ofwhichneedtobeongradeIV7ofwhichneedtobeongradeIII

Youcansafelyandcomfortablyleadcrackandfaceclimbsrated5.10c/A2orharderatthetimeoftheexam.YoucopyofcurrentWildernessFirstRespondercertification,WildernessEMTorEMT.

A mock-guided day occurs when a candidate acts as a guide to a non-paying cohort.Mockguideddaysshouldbeperformedinthesamemannerasapaiddayofprofessionalguidingwherethenon-payingcohortactsastheclient.Ifacandidatestepsoutofroleastheguide,orhastoasktheclienttostepoutofrole,thatdayshouldnotbedocumentedasamockguideday.Candidatesareexpectedtoclearlydocumentallmock-guideddaysontheirresumes.

An AMGA Certified Rock Guide should be able toOnsightguide2clientsata5.10b/cleveluptoandthroughgradeV.Climbtraditionalandsportprotectedclimbsata5.10levelfluidlyandcomfortably.Demonstratecompetencyinthefollowingriskmanagement,andclientcare.Demonstrateproficiencywithshortropingtechniquesintechnicallydemandingterrain.DemonstrateaworkingknowledgeofindustrystandardsinequipmentCreateandimplementimprovisedrescuetechniquesinverticalterrain.Usetherighttechniqueattherighttime.ShowaworkingknowledgeofLeaveNoTracePrinciples.

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AMGA ALPINEGUIDEFLOWChART

AMGA ALPINEGUIDEPROGRAM

27

The Alpine Guide Program providestrainingforaspiringguidesandexperiencedguideswhoworkinawiderangeofalpineenvironments,includingalpinerock,mixedterrain,alpineice,waterfalliceandheavily-glaciatedmountaineeringterrain.TheAlpineGuideProgramisa4-stepprogram.

To receive certification as an Alpine Guide you must:1stsuccessfullycompletethe10-dayRockInstructorCourse2ndsuccessfullycompletethe10-dayAlpineGuideCourse3rdsuccessfullycompleteandpassthe12-dayAdvancedAlpineGuideCourseandAspirantExam4thPassthefinal10-dayAlpineCertificationExam

Alpine Guide Course OverviewTheAlpineGuideCourseisthe2ndstepinthealpineguideeducationandcertificationprocessandplacesstrongemphasisonhands-onapproachtothemechanicsofguidingonalpineterrain.

Course AreaThecourseareaoftenincludesbutisnotlimitedtonon-glaciated,alpineterrainintheRockyMountainsandtheNorthCascades.

Course LengthAllcandidatesenrolledintheAlpineGuideCoursemusthavefirstsuccessfullycompletedtheAMGARockInstructorCourseorRockGuideCourse.TheAlpineGuideCourseis10-daysinlength.

Prerequisites for Alpine Guide Course:YouareanAssociateMemberoftheAMGA.YouhavesuccessfullycompletedtheRockInstructorCourse.Pleaseprovidedocumentationofcoursecompletiononprogramapplication.Youhaveatleast5yearsofalpineclimbingexperience.Providepersonalalpineclimbingresuméshowingeachofthefollowing:

Youhaveledorsharedleadonatleast40differentalpineclimbsinatleast2differentareas(i.e.CascadesandAlaska).10ofwhichshouldbeonalpinerockroutesrated5.8orharderandgradeIIIorlongeraftertheapproach.10ofwhichshouldbeondifferentalpinetechnicalsnow,iceormixedclimbs.5ofwhichshouldbeondifferenticeclimbsratedWI4orharder.

Youareconfidentwithbasicknots,includingfigure-8,bowline,clovehitch,munterhitch,mulehitch,prussik,klemheist,anddoublefisherman’s.Youareabletoplacetraditionalprotectionandconstructanchors.YouareabletoemployClassic(French)crampontechniqueson40degreehard,frozen,snowinascentanddescent.Youareabletosafelyandcomfortablyleadcrackandfaceclimbsrated5.6instiffmountaineeringboots.Youareabletosafelyandcomfortablyleadcrackandfaceclimbsrated5.10ainrockshoes.Youarecomfortableusingthehipbelaymethod.Youarecompetentreadingamapandusingacompass.YouarefamiliarwithLeaveNoTracepracticesandtechniques.Youareabletousemorethanonetypeofdeviceonmulti-pitchrappels.YoucopyofcurrentWildernessFirstRespondercertification,WildernessEMTorEMT.

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Skills taught and developed during the Alpine Guide CourseEfficienttravelthrough3rdand4thclassterrainShort-ropeandshort-pitchtechniquesonsnowandrockTechniquesformanagingmultipleclientsTracksettingNavigationskillsMacroandmicro-routefindingskillsEvaluatinganchorconstructionasitrelatestoguidingChoosingappropriatebelaymethodsforrockandsnowEfficientlyorganizingbelaystancesformultipleclientsDescendingwithclientsEscapingbelaysManagingclientsafetyin3rdand4thclassterrainGuide’sanchorsinrock,snowandiceTimeandpacemanagementSmallteamrescuesImprovisedascendingmethodsStrategiesforrappellingandloweringclientsSafetymanagementinguidingcontextLessonplansPedagogyCoachingtipsandeffectivecommunication

ADVANCED ALPINE GUIDE COURSE/ASPIRANT EXAMThe Advanced Alpine Guide Courseisthe3rdstepinthealpineguidingeducationandcertificationprocess.TheAdvancedAlpineGuideCourseisdesignedforskilledclimberswhowishtofurtherdeveloptheirskillsandtechniquesusedwhileinstructingandguidinginaglaciatedalpinesetting.ThecoursecoversthetoolsusedwhenguidingandinstructingonroutesuptoandincludingGradeVlength.Italsocoversmanagementof3rdand4thclassterrain,technicaldescents,managementandmovementofmultipleclientsandsmallteamrescueskills.Emphasisisoneffectivelymanagingrisksandmaximizingclientrewards.

All candidates musthavesuccessfullycompletedtheRockInstructorCourseandtheAlpineGuideCourse inorder tobeconsideredforenrollmentintotheAdvancedAlpineGuideCourse.

Course AreaThecourseisheldinmajorglaciated,alpinerangesincluding,butnotlimitedto,theNorthCascades,theBugaboos,EuropeanAlps,CanadianIceFieldsandalpinerangesofAlaska.

Course LengthTheAdvancedAlpineGuideCourseandAspirantExamis12-daysinlength.Thefinal3-daysofthecoursewillbetheaspirantexam.

Advanced Alpine Guide Aspirant ExamTheAspirantGuideProgramisdesignedtoserveasanintermediatestepintheprocessofbecomingacertifiedguide.TheAspirantExamoccursasanintegralpartoftheAMGAadvancedlevelcoursesandisspecifictothedisciplineofthecourse.Itisintendedtohelpdeterminethatacandidate’sguidingskillsmeettheminimumstandardsappropriateforguidingandservesaspreparationforthefinalcertificationexam.ThestandardfortheAspirantGuideExamisatalevelappropriateforguidingclientsprofessionallywithonlyindirectsupervision.Furthermore,theessentialskillsandabilitiesoftheAspirantGuideneedtobecomparabletothoseofafullguide.

The Advanced Alpine Guide Course will be divided into two components: Component Oneincludesinstructionandpracticalexperience.Component TwoAspirantExam

During the Advanced Alpine Guide Coursecandidateswillbeexpectedtocarryoutguidingassignmentsgivenbythecourseinstructors.Themajorityofcoursetimeisspentwithstudentsleadingascentsanddescentsincomplexalpineenvironments.

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Candidateswillserveasguidestotheinstructorsandothercourseparticipants.Duringthe3-dayAlpineAspirantExamcandidateswillbeassessedandexaminedontheirabilitytoperformspecificobjectivesonterrainandinconditionsappropriatetothealpinediscipline.TheAdvancedAlpineGuideCourseisnowpass/failinnature.Skillsthatareaprerequisitetoenrollmentofthecoursewillbeassessedduringthefirstfewdaysofthecourse.Ifcandidatedoesnotperformattherequiredlevelforcourseentrytheywillbedroppedfromtheadvancedcourseatthattimeandwillberequiredtoretaketheentirecourseatalaterdate.

Skills that are an integral part of the course curriculum will be examinedat theexamcertificationlevel towardstheendofthecourse,afterthecandidatehashadopportunitytopracticethem.Ifacandidatedemonstratesacceptableperformanceonanyoftheassessmentdrillsearlyinthecoursetheycanbecheckedoffas“Pass”.IfacandidatedoesnotperformatthestandardonanyoftheAspirantExamobjectivestheywillberequiredtotakethe3-dayAspirantRe-examinationatalaterdate.

Prerequisites for Advanced Alpine Guide Course:YouareacurrentIndividualMemberoftheAMGA.YouhavesuccessfullycompletedtheAlpineGuideCourse.Pleaseprovidedocumentationofcoursecompletiononprogramapplication.ProvidedocumentationofcompletedrecommendationsfromAlpineGuideCourseevaluation.Provideanupdatedalpineclimbingresumeshowingeachofthefollowing:

SincecompletingtheAlpineGuideCourseyoumockguided/guided10daysindiversealpineterrain.Since completing the Alpine Guide Course you have led or shared lead on at least 10 different glacier routeswithsignificantcrevassedifficulties.SincecompletingtheAlpineGuideCourseyouhaveledorsharedleadonatleast5differentalpineroutesratedgradeIVorlonger.SincecompletingtheAlpineGuideCourseyouhaveledorsharedleadonatleast5iceclimbsratedWI4orharder.

Youareconfidentwiththefollowingguidingtechniquesshortroping,shortpitching,lowering,rappellingandassociatedtransitions.Youarefamiliarwithmultiple-clientguiding,includingtwoclientsclimbingatthesametimeontwodifferentropes.Youarecomfortableroutefindingoncomplexglaciatedterrain.Areabletosafelyandcomfortablylead5.7crackandfaceclimbsinstiffmountaineeringboots.Areabletosafelyandcomfortablylead5.10acrackandfaceclimbsinrockshoes.Areabletoemployclassic(French)crampontechniqueson40degreehard,frozensnowinascentanddescent.ProvideacopyofcurrentWildernessFirstResponderorbetter.ProvidecopyofcompletionofanAMGAapprovedLevelIIavalanchecourse.


Skills taught and developed during the Advanced Alpine Guide Course:GlaciertravelforguidingCrevasserescueforguidesAdditionaltechnicalrescuetechniquesAdvancedsolutionsforbelaystationtransitionsShortropingandshortpitchingonglacialiceShortandlongropingtechniquesforglaciatedterrainManagingtechnicaldescentsAssessingriskmanagementofclientsGuidesecurityandsafetyDevelopingon-sightguidingtechniquesClientcareandcustomerserviceskillsProfessionalstandardsinguidingLessonplanningPedagogyCoachingtipsandeffectivecommunication

Skills assessed during Advanced Alpine Guide Aspirant ExamMovementskillsonice,rockand3rdand4thclassterrainRockrescuesystemsknotpass pe

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ALPINE GUIDE CERTIFICATION EXAMThegoalsofthe10-dayAlpineGuideCertificationExamaretoassessalpineclimbingguidesattheAMGAandIFMGAinternationalstandardsandtofurtherthegeneraleducationoftheexamcandidates.

During the exam candidates will be expected to carry out guiding assignmentsgivenbytheexamin-ers.Candidateswillserveasguidestotheexaminersandtotheothercandidatesonrouteschosenfortheircomplexguidingchallenges.Candidatesactingasaguidewillberesponsiblefor:routeplanning,clientorientation,campcraft,riskmanagementandnormalguidingpractices.Routeor tourassignmentswillusuallybegiventhenightbefore.Clientprofileswillalsobeexplained.Candidateswillberesponsibleforobtaininginformationregardingtheassignedrouteandalternativeroutesiftheoriginalobjectiveprovesinfeasible.

The first 9 days of the exam are conducted on routes chosen by the examiners.Alpineterrainincludesglaciatedandnon-glaciatedpeaks,approachesandclimbs,withnolimitation.It includesrockclimbs,peakascents,andwaterfallclimbs.Thefinaldayoftheexamwillincludeapersonaldebriefandexamevaluation.

In order to receive AMGA certification as an Alpine Guide you must:1stsuccessfullycompletethe10-dayRockInstructorCourse2ndsuccessfullycompletethe10-dayAlpineGuideCourse3rdsuccessfullycompleteandpassthe10-dayAdvancedAlpineGuideCourseandAspirantExam4thPassthe10-dayAlpineGuideCertificationExam

Prerequisites for Alpine Guide Certification ExamYouareacurrentIndividualMemberoftheAMGA.YouhavesuccessfullycompletedtheAdvancedAlpineGuideCourse,whichrequiresthatyouhavepassedtheAspirantExam.Pleaseprovidedocumentationofcoursecompletiononprogramapplication.ProvidedocumentationofcompletedrecommendationsfromAdvancedAlpineGuideCourseevaluation.Provideanupdatedalpineclimbingresumeshowingeachofthefollowing:SincecompletingtheAdvancedAlpineGuideCourseyouhavemockguided/guided10daysindiversealpineterrain.SincecompletingtheAdvancedAlpineGuideCourseyouhaveledorsharedleadonatleast5differentalpineroutes.Youhaveledorsharedleadonatleast5alpineroutesratedgradeIVorlonger.Youhaveledorsharedleadonatleast10traditionalrockclimbsrated5.10orharderYoucopyofcurrentWildernessFirstRespondercertification,WildernessEMTorEMT.YouhavecompletedanAMGAapprovedLevelIIIavalanchecourse.


An AMGA Certified Alpine Guide should be able to:On-sightguide2clientsata5.10aleveluptogradeVinanalpinerockenvironmentinrockshoes.Moveefficientlyandquicklywith2clientsinalpineterrainbytransitioningbetweenshort-ropingandshort-pitchingtechniques.Climbtraditionalandsportprotectedclimbsata5.10levelfluidlyandcomfortably.ClimbWaterfallIce4fluidlyandcomfortably.Moveover3rd,4thand5thclassterrainfluidlyandcomfortablyinmountainboots.AbilitytocomfortablyemployClassic(French)cramponandiceaxetechniquesonterrainupto50degrees.Demonstrateagoodknowledgeofshortropingandtransitionsintechnicallydemandingterrain.Demonstrateagoodknowledgeofindustrystandardsforequipment.Implementimprovisedrescueinverticalterrain.Demonstrateagoodunderstandingofavalancheassessmentandmanagementtechniques.Applytheappropriateguidingassessmentwhileassessingpotentialhazardsandmanagingrisktoanappropriatelevel.DemonstratecompletemasteryofbackcountrynavigationusingallavailabletoolsincludingGPS.ShowacompleteunderstandingandpracticeofLeaveNoTracetechniques.

AMGA SkIGUIDEFLOWChART

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Ski Guide ProGram

www.amga.com

Ski Guide Flowchart

This second step for IFMGA-track individuals requires completion of the Ski Moun-taineering Course.

The first step in the AMGA Ski Program requires four years of personal ski tour-ing experience.

Ski Mountaineering Guide Certification is required for individuals pursuing IFMGA recognition. Ski Guide Cer-tification is not necessary to take the Ski Mountaineering Exam.

Ski Mountaineering Guide Certification

Exam

Ski Mountaineering Certification is one of the components required for IFMGA recognition.

Ski guidecourse

Ski mountaineeringcourse &

aspirant Exam

AMGA SkIPROGRAM

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SKI GUIDE AND SKI MOUNTAINEERING GUIDE PROGRAMtrainsandexaminesaspiringguidesandexperiencedguideswhoworkinawiderangeofbackcountryskiingenvironments includinglift-accessbackcountry,mechanicallysupportedskiguiding,humanpoweredskitouring,easy4thand5thclassascentsandskiingdescentsupto50degreesinheavilyglaciatedmountaineeringterrain.TheSkiGuideProgramisa3-stepprogram.

To receive AMGA certification as a Ski Mountaineering Guide you must1stsuccessfullycompletethe12-daySkiGuideCourse.2ndsuccessfullycompleteandpassthe10-daySkiMountaineeringGuideCourseandAspirantExam.3rdPassthe8-daySkiMountaineeringCertificationExam.

SKI GUIDE COURSE OVERVIEWTheSkiGuideCourseisthe1ststepintheAMGASkiProgram.TheSkiGuideCourseisdesignedforskierswhowishtolearntheskills and techniquesusedwhile instructingandguiding in anon-glaciated, yetpossiblehigh-mountainbackcountry setting.Thecoursecoversthetoolsusedwhenguidingandinstructingonmulti-dayskitours.Italsocoversmanagementof3rdand4thclasster-rain,technicalascentsanddescents,managementandmovementofmultipleclientsandsmallteamrescues.Emphasisisplacedoneffectivelymanagingrisksandmaximizingclientrewards.Glaciertravelandcrevassehazardsandsustainedtechnicalmountaineeringchallengesaregenerallynotcoveredinthiscourse.

Course AreaThecoursewillincludeoneortwodaysskiingatanearbyresort,peakascentsincludingonebivouacandseveralnightsinhutsorskicamping.Courseareasoftenincludebutarenotlimitedto,theRockyMountains,SierraNevada,CascadesandtheTetons.

Course LengthTheSkiGuideCourseis12-daysinlength.

Prerequisites for Ski Guide Course:YouareacurrentAMGAAssociateMember.Youhavefouryearsofpersonalskitouringexperience,includingleadingmulti-daytoursandpeakascents.Provideapersonalskitouringresumeshowingeachofthefollowing:

20differentskitoursfromthepasttwoyears-detailedwithdate(s),specificlocation,totalelevationgainandloss,totalhorizontalmileage,andmaximumslopeangle

5ofwhichareon40degreeterrainorsteeper5ofwhicharedaytoursthatincludegreaterthanorequalto4500verticalfeetofascentand4500verticalfeetofdescent5ofwhicharemulti-daytoursusinghutsorskicamping

Youareabletoascendanddescendonskisanaverageof4500verticalfeetperdaywithlittleproblem.Youdemonstrateexpertskiingskillsandcancomfortablyskiblackanddouble-blackdiamondterrainatalevelwellbeyondtheaveragerecreationalskier.Youmustdemonstratetheabilitytoadjusttechniquetoskiinavarietyofsnowconditionsondiverseterrainincludinglongsustaineddescentsupto50.YouareexperiencedwithgeneralropemanagementskillsincludingBasicknotsandclimbingharnesses.Choosingappropriatebelayandrappelmethodsforrockandsnow.Youhaveexperiencesnowclimbingwithiceaxeandcramponsandarecomfortablewithself-belayandself-arrest.Youhavebasictourplanningskills.Youareabletonavigateinwhiteoutconditions.Youarecompetentwithtransceiveruseandrescueinmultipleburialscenarios.YouhavecompletedanAMGAapprovedLevelIIavalanchecourse.ProvideacopyofcurrentWildernessFirstRespondercertification,WildernessEMTorEMT.Youareatleast18yearsofage.

AMGA SkIPROGRAM

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General Guiding Skills taught dur-ing the Ski Guide Course:OverviewofAMGACertificationprocessGuidingtechniquesvs.RecreationaltechniquesGuidesProfessionalismGuidingwithreferencetoLeaveNoTraceGuidinghistoryinU.SandabroadIntroductiontoTimePlanningGuidesmeetingprocessRiskManagementplanningGuidesauxiliarygearRopehandlingskillsknotsFrictionhitchesharnessesandimprovisedharnessesGuidesanchoringskillsGuidesbelayingtechniquesClientOrientationandassessmentShortpitchingIntroductiontoShortRopingRappellingtechniquesandbackupsLoweringtechniquesknotpassandreleasablesystemsRaisingsystems

Additional Skills taught during the �2-day Ski Guide Course:SkiingskillsevaluationSkiingtechniquesforskiguidesWedgeturnsWedgeChristieturnsStemChristieturnsParallel/telemarkturnsDynamicparallel/telemarkturnshopparallel/telemarkturnsPedalhopturnsAvalanche/snowsafetygearStabilityevaluationhazardassessmentUphillguidingDownhillguidingBivouactechniqueTransceiver/rescueassessmentClientorientationandpreparationGuidefieldbookmethodologyEquipmentselectionTimeandpacemanagementTracksettingRopemanagementSledrescueEvaluatingriskmanagementinguidingLeaveNoTraceReviewofcertificationexamtestingprocedures

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SKI MOUNTAINEERING GUIDE COURSE/ASPIRANT EXAM OVERVIEWTheSkiMountaineeringGuideCourseisthe2ndstepintheskimountaineeringguideeducationandcertificationprocess.TheSkiMountaineeringCourseisdesignedforskilledskiersandclimberswhowishtolearntheskillsandtechniquesusedwhileinstructingandguidingoncomplexglaciatedterrain.Thecoursecoversthetoolsusedwhenguidingandinstructingonglaciatedalpineroutes.Italsocoversmanagementof3rd,4thandpossibly5thclassterrain,technicaldescents,managementandmovementofmultipleclients,andsmallteamrescues.Emphasisisplacedoneffectivelymanagingrisksandmaximizingclientrewards.AllcandidatesmusthavesuccessfullycompletedtheSkiGuideCourseinordertobeconsideredforenrollmentintotheSkiMountaineeringGuideCourse.

Course AreaThecoursewillincludemulti-dayskitoursandpeakascents.Thecourseareasinclude,butarenotlimitedto,theCascades,EuropeanAlpsandtheChugachRangeofAlaska.

Course LengthTheSkiMountaineeringGuideCourseandAspirantExamis10-daysinlength.Thefinal3-daysofthecoursewillbetheaspirantexam.

Ski Mountaineering Guide Aspirant ExamTheAspirantGuideProgramisdesignedtoserveasanintermediatestepintheprocessofbecomingacertifiedguide.TheAspirantExamoccursasanintegralpartoftheAMGAadvancedlevelcoursesandisspecifictothedisciplineofthecourse.Itisintendedtohelpdeterminethatacandidate’spersonalskillsmeettheminimumstandardsappropriateforguidingandservesaspreparationforthefinalcertificationexam.ThestandardfortheAspirantGuideExamisatalevelappropriateforguidingclientsprofessionallywithonlyindi-rectsupervision.Furthermore,theessentialskillsandabilitiesoftheAspirantGuideneedtobecomparabletothoseofafullguide.

The Ski Mountaineering Guide Course will be divided into two components:

Component OneincludesinstructionandpracticalexperienceComponent TwoAspirantExam

During the Ski Mountaineering Guide Course candidatesgivenbythecourseinstructors.Themajorityofcoursetime is spent with students leading ascents and descents in complex ski mountaineering environments. Candidates will serve asguidestotheinstructorsandothercourseparticipants.Duringthe3-daySkiMountaineeringGuideAspirantExamcandidateswillbeassessedandexaminedatthecertificationexamlevelontheirabilitytoperformspecificobjectivesonterrainandinconditionsappropriatetotheskimountaineeringdiscipline.

The Ski Mountaineering Guide Courseisnowpass/failinnature.Skillsthatareaprerequisitetoenrollmentofthecoursewillbeassessedduringthefirstfewdaysofthecourse.Ifacandidatedoesnotperformattherequiredlevelforcourseentrytheywillbedroppedfromtheadvancedcourseatthattimeandwillberequiredtoretaketheentirecourseatalaterdate.

Skills that are an integral part of the course curriculum willbeexaminedattheexamcertificationleveltowardstheendofthecourse,afterthecandidatehashadopportunitytopracticethem.Ifacandidatedemonstratesacceptableper-formanceonanyoftheassessmentdrillsearlyinthecoursetheycanbecheckedoffas“Pass”.IfacandidatedoesnotperformatthestandardonanyoftheAspirantExamobjectivestheywillberequiredtotakethe3-dayAspirantRe-examinationatalaterdate.

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AMGA SkIPROGRAMPrerequisites for Ski Mountaineering Guide Course:YouareacurrentIndividualMemberoftheAMGA.YouhavesuccessfullycompletedtheSkiGuideCourse.Providedocumentationofcoursecompletiononprogramapplication.ProvidedocumentationofcompletedrecommendationsfromSkiGuideCourseevaluation.Provideanupdatedskimountaineeringresumeshowingeachofthefollowing:

SincecompletingtheSkiGuideCourseyouhavemockguided/guidedatleast10daysinskimountaineeringterrain.Documentationmustincludedate,specificlocation,totalelevationgainandloss,totalhorizontalmileage,maximumslopeangle,andnumberofmockclients/clients.Youhaveledorsharedleadonatleast10differentalpineroutesrated3rdor4thclassincludingatleast2withmid5thclassrock,snow&ice.Youhaveskied10descents,5ofwhichshouldbeincomplexglaciatedterrain.

Youareabletoascendanddescendonskisanaverageof6000verticalfeetperdaywithlittleproblem.ProvideacopyofcurrentWildernessFirstRespondercertification,WildernessEMTorEMT.YouhavecompletedanAMGAapprovedLevelIIIavalanchecourse.

A mock guided day occurs when a candidate acts as a guide to a non-paying cohort.Mockguideddaysshouldbeperformedinthesamemannerasapaiddayofprofessionalguidingwherethenon-payingcohortactsastheclient.Ifacandidatestepsoutofroleastheguide,orhastoasktheclienttostepoutofrole,thatdayshouldnotbedocumentedasamockguideday.Candidatesareexpectedtoclearlydocumentallmockguideddaysontheirresumes.

Skills taught and developed during the Ski Mountaineering Guide Course:GlaciertravelforguidingCrevasserescueDownhillguidingincomplexglaciatedterrainAdvancedsolutionsforbelaystationtransitionsTracksettinganduphillguidingincomplexglaciatedterrainAdvancedshortroping,shortpitchingtechniquesandconsiderationsincomplexglaciatedterrainManagingtechnicaldescentsRiskassessmentforclientsGuidesafetyandsecurityManagingon-sightguidingtechniquesClientcareskillPracticeguidingatIFMGAstandardApplicationoftechniquesLessonplanningPedagogyCoachingtipsandeffectivecommunication

Skills assessed during the Ski Mountaineering Aspirant ExamMovementskillsAvalanchetransceiversearchRescuesledloweringandraisingBivouacconstruction

SKI MOUNTAINEERING GUIDE CERTIFICATION EXAMThegoalsofthe8-daySkiMountaineeringGuideCertificationExamaretoassessskiguidesattheAMGAandIFMGAinternationalstandardsandtofurtherthegeneraleducationoftheexamcandidates.

During the exam candidates will be expected to carry out guiding assignments given by the examiners.Candidateswillserveasguidestotheexaminersandtotheothercandidatesonrouteschosenfortheircomplexguidingchallenges.Candidatesactingasaguidewillberesponsibleforrouteplanning,clientorientation,campcraft,riskmanagementandnormalguidingpractices.Routeortourassignmentsandclientprofileswillusuallybegiventhenightbefore.Candidateswillberesponsibleforobtain-inginformationregardingtheassignedrouteandalternativeroutesiftheoriginalobjectiveprovesinfeasible.

The first 7 days of the examareconductedonrouteschosenbytheexaminers.Skimountaineeringterrainincludesglaciated

AMGA SkIPROGRAM

SKI MOUNTAINEERING GUIDE CERTIFICATION EXAM CONTINUED

alpineenvironmentswhereguidesmayneedtoemployextensiveshortropingtechniques,useoftheiceaxeandcrampons,aswellastravelonheavilycrevassedglaciers.Multi-pitchiceorrockclimbingisgenerallynotincludedinthedefinedterrainexceptwhenneces-sarytoachieveaskiorsnowboardbasedobjective.Thefinaldayoftheexamwillincludepersonaldebriefandexamevaluation.In order to receive AMGA certification as a Ski Mountaineering Guide you must1stsuccessfullycompletethe12-daySkiGuideCourse2ndsuccessfullycompleteandpassthe10-daySkiMountaineeringGuideCourseandAspirantExam.3rdPassthe8-daySkiMountaineeringGuideCertificationExam

Prerequisites for Ski Mountaineering Guide Certification ExamYouareacurrentIndividualMemberoftheAMGA.Youhavesuccessfullycompleted theSkiMountaineeringGuideCourse,which requires thatyouhavepassed theAspirantExam.Providedocumentationofcoursecompletiononprogramapplication.ProvidedocumentationofcompletedrecommendationsfromSkiGuideCourseevaluation.Provideanupdatedskimountaineeringresume,detailedwithdate,specificlocation,totalelevationgainandloss,totalhorizontalmileage,maximumslopeangle,andnumberofmockclients/clients,showingeachofthefollowing:

SincecompletingtheSkiMountaineeringGuideCourseyouhavemockguided/guided10daysinskimountaineeringterrain,at5ofwhichmustbeoncomplex,glaciatedterrain

SincecompletingtheSkiMountaineeringGuideCourseyouhaveskied10personalskidescents5ofwhichmustbeoncomplex,glaciatedterrain5ofwhichmustbe45orsteeper

YouhaveacurrentWildernessFirstRespondercertification,WildernessEMTorEMT.YouhavecompletedanAMGAapprovedLevelIIIavalanchecourse.

A mock guided day occurs when a candidate acts as a guide to a non-paying cohort.Mockguideddaysshouldbeperformedinthesamemannerasapaiddayofprofessionalguidingwherethenon-payingcohortactsastheclient.Ifacandidatestepsoutofroleastheguide,orhastoasktheclienttostepoutofrole,thatdayshouldnotbedocumentedasamockguideday.Candidatesareexpectedtoclearlydocumentallmockguideddaysontheirresumes.

An AMGA Certified Ski Mountaineering Guide should be able toDemonstrateexpertskiingskillsandcancomfortablyskiblackanddouble-blackdiamondterrainatalevelwellbeyondtheaveragerecreationalskier.Ascendanddescendonskisanaverageof6000verticalfeetperdaywithlittleproblem.Moveefficientlyandquicklywith2clientsover4thand5thclassterrainusingappropriateshort-ropingorbelayingtechniques.Efficientlyskianytypeofsnowupto50∞insteepnesswithanappropriate-weightpackincomplexglaciatedterrain.Adapttoallsnowconditionsanddemonstratearepertoireoftechniquesrequiredforavarietyofsituationsandclientprofiles.Teachtechniquesrelatedtoskiinginthebackcountryandtravelingincomplexglaciatedterrain.Demonstrateknowledgeofandexperienceinatleastoneothermedium(i.e.crosscountrytelemark,splitboard).Demonstrateagoodknowledgeofindustrystandardsforequipment.Organizeandperformarescueandevacuationinrock,crevasseandsledscenarios.Demonstrateguidingskills,uphillanddownhilltechniques,riskmanagement,decisionmaking,clientcare,navigation,winterover-nightcamping,environmentalconsciousness,andtechnicalsystems.Demonstrateagoodunderstandingofavalancheterrainandhowtoavoidpotentialhazards.Usetherighttechniqueattherighttime.ShowacompleteunderstandingandpracticeofLeaveNoTracetechniques

The AMGA recommends shadow guiding or working under supervision of an IFMGA Certified Guide or an AMGA certified SkiMountaineeringGuide.

PleasesubmitelectronicallyrequireddocumentationandupdatedpersonalskimountaineeringresumetotheAMGAProgramDirectorbetsy@amga.com.

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5 Day Ice Instructor Training Workshop

NewEngland,February5–9,2007

This5dayIceInstructorEndorsementwillbuildandexpandguidingskillslearnedintheRockInstructororAlpineGuideCourseswhilemockguidingsingleandmultipitchwaterfalliceroutes.Courseinstructorswillworkindividuallywitheachparticipanttorefine theirability toassessaguiding situation todetermine theproper techniqueand itsexecution. Duringvarious iceclimbstheinstructorswillcoachandmodeltoconveytheseskills.Morningsessionswillbereservedtoinstructspecificclinicswiththeafternoonsessiontopracticethesetopicswhilemockguiding.VenuesforthisworkshopwillofferGrade3,4,5,routesbetweentwoandthreepitchesinlength.

Additionally, course instructors will teach lessons in these skill areas:

RiskmanagementClientorientationIce&CramponskillswithclassictermsTerrainassessmentIcescrewplacementsBelaytechniquesMulticlientguidingTechnicaldescentsShortrope/pitchingonsnow&icehazardrecognitionGuidesecurityandsafety

Cost$1,000perparticipantRatio3:1

Locations:NewEnglandAreastoincludeCrawfordNotchandFranconiaNotchNh.

PrerequisitesCompletionoftheRockInstructororAlpineGuidesCourse

Fouryearsiceclimbingexperience,withiceclimbingresumetoinclude20waterfalliceclimbswhich10ormoreareWI4orharder.

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IFMGAGUIDEFLOWChARTIFMGA MOUNTAIN GUIDE

42 AMGA PROGRAM CATALOG

IFMGA Mountain Guide Flowchart

On November 22, 1997, the AMGA became a member of the IFMGA (aka UIAGM), the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations.

• Full Certifi cation is necessary to legally guide in other IFMGA-member countries.• Possession of each of these three certifi cations is necessary to become an IFMGA Certifi ed Mountain Guide.• Examinations may be taken in any order, (the order listed here is arbitrary).

IFMGA Mountain Guide Certifi cation

Alpine Guide Certifi cation

Ski Mountaineering Guide Certifi cation

Rock GuideCertifi cation

Full Certification is necessary to legally guide in other IFMGA-member countries.

Possession of each of these three certifications is necessary to become an IFMGA Certified Mountain Guide.

Examinations may be taken in any order, (the order listed here is arbitrary).

On November 22, �997, the AMGA became a member of the IFMGA (aka UIAGM), the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations.

Alpine GuideCertification

Rock GuideCertification

Ski MountaineeringCertification

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How important is certification?Landmanagersarebecomingincreasinglyconcernedaboutclimbing’simpactonresources.Asaresult,theyarelookingtotheAMGAforhelpinmanagingcommercialclimbing.JoshuaTreeNationalParkhasthehighestnumberofclimberuser-daysofanynationalpark and AMGA Certification is helping managers determine the most qualified applicants for special use permits. Joshua Treeofficials,amongotherstipulations,requireeitherAMGACertificationorAccreditation(fromeithertheAMGAortheAssociationofExperientialEducation)toapplyforaguidingpermit.

TheAMGAisthesoleUnitedStatesmemberoftheInternationalFederationofMountainGuidesAssociation(IFMGA).TheIFMGAsetsthestandardsforguidetrainingandcertificationforprofessionalmountainguidesintheentireworld.InIFMGAmembercoun-triessuchasCanada,France,SwitzerlandandPeru,IFMGAguidestatusisrequiredofindividualswishingtoworkinthosecoun-tries.Certificationinall3AMGAdisciplinesallowsindividualstopursueinternationalworkstatus(SeeIFMGAFlowchartonpageXXX).

What will I get out of certification?Firstand foremostyouwillbecomeabetterguide.TheAMGAeducationandcertificationprogramprovidesauniqueopportunityforguides toclearlyunderstandthecurrent technicalstandardswithin the industryandimproveupontheirguidingskills.AMGAcertificationexamsbringtogetherahighlyskilledgroupofindividualsandputstheirskillstotest.Thevalueofthispeerreview,andtheopportunity toseehowotherexperiencedguideshandlechallengingsituations,guarantees thatanexamparticipantwillcomeawaywithgreaterskillsandconfidence.Inadditiontotheeducationalvalueandrecognitionwithintheguidingcommunity,AMGAcertificationwillprovideinvaluableopportunitiestoworkasaprofessionalmountainguide.Aslandmanagersandthepublicbecomemoreawareofcertificationandthequalitycertificationrepresents,itwillbecomeeasierforAMGACertifiedGuidestogainclientsandaccesstoterrain.

Can anyone get into AMGA Programs?Ourgoalistohaveroomforeachapplicantthatmeetstheprerequisites.however,sometimesthisisnotpossibleespeciallyifthereisahighdemandforaparticularprogram.Therefore,allapplicationsreceivedinatimelymannerbytheAMGAofficewillbereviewedandifspaceisavailableenrolledinthatcourseorexam.FormoreinformationontheapplicationprocesspleaseseepageXXX.

TheAMGAreservestherighttoexcludesomeonefromacourseorexam.Wealsoreservetherighttoaskaparticipanttoleaveacourseorexamiftheyareendangeringthesafetyoftheinstructors,examiners,orparticipants,oriftheyhavefalsifiedinformationontheirapplication.IfyouareaskedtoleaveanAMGAcourseorexam,norefundswillbegiven.

Why do I have to provide a personal climbing resume?Justas it is important foraguidetoknowaclient’sbackground, thesameapplies toAMGAcourse instructors.With thedetailedunderstandingofyourbackground,theinstructorscanfocusonareasthatwillhelpyouthemost.Becausestudentsareputinrealleadershippositionsinstructorsmustbesureofthetechnicalabilityofthestudentsinordertomanagerisk.

How much information needs to be in my resume?Yourpersonalclimbingresumeandguidingresumearecriticalpartsofyourapplication.Theyshouldreflectcompletefulfillmentoftheprerequisitesforthecourseorexamyouapplyingfor.Resumesshouldshowthediversityofyourexperience,bothinmediumandlocation.Theresumeformslocatedinthebackofthiscatalogdetailwhatstructurethisinformationshouldtake.AllresumesmustbesubmittedelectronicallytotheProgramDirector,BetsyNovak([email protected]).

Why do the courses seem so expensive?TheAMGAisanon-profitorganization.Wedonotpriceourcoursesorexams forprofit.A largeportionof thecourseexpense isusedfortheinstructor’stravelcosts,food,lodging,andwages.Programratiosaregenerallylowtoofferthepersonalizedinstructionrequestedbyourmembers.MostoftheworktodevelopandsupporttheAMGAeducationalprogramsisdonebydedicatedandhard-workingguideswhovolunteertheirtimetohelpminimizecosts.

What if I don’t have all the money required for course tuition right now?Depositsof%25ofthetotaltuitioncostarerequiredforapplicationreviewandtoholdyourplaceinaprogram.Thisdepositistobesubmittedwithyourapplication.Fullpaymentisrequiredforallprograms6weeksbeforethestartdateoftheprogram.Thispaymentcanbemadewithacheck,moneyorderorcreditcard,At6weekspriortoacourseyourdepositandspaceonacoursewillbeforfeitediffullpaymentisnotreceived.

AMGA FREQUENTLYASkEDQUESTIONS

Can I get my money back?IftheAMGAcancelsaprogramatanytime,afullrefundwillbegiven.Ifparticipantcancelsenrollmentincourseupuntil6weekspriortothestartofthecoursearefundoftotalpaymentatthattimeminusthe$100.00non-refundableapplicationfeewillberefunded.Ifaparticipantcancelslessthan6weeksbeforethestartdatethecourse,NOREFUNDwillbegiven,thisincludesinjuriessobecareful!Tripcancellationinsuranceisrecommendedtorecoverfeeslostduetoinjuryorotherfactors.

How do I find out about course logistics?Thepre-coursemeetingtime,locationandgeneralitinerarywillbeincludedwithyourpre-courseprograminformationpacket.Youwillreceivethispacket6weekspriortothestartofthecourseorexamyouareenrolledin.Participantsareresponsibleforanycamping,lodging,mealsandortransportationcostsincurredgettingtoorduringthecourse.

Theprogramdates/locationsdon’tworkwithmyschedule.Whatotheroptionsarethere?Occasionallyitispossibletoaddadditionalcoursesorexamsasneeded.ContacttheProgramDirectortoinquireaboutschedulingchanges.

Are scholarships available to course participants?TheAMGAinitiatedthreepermanentendowmentfundstohelpsupportprogramparticipantsfinancially.The Julie Cheney Culberson Education Fund wascreatedinmemoryofanoutstandingprofessionalguide.Itexiststohelpsupportandpromotetheeducationofwomenguidesoraspiringwomenguides.ThisfundprovidespartialtuitionreimbursementstofemaleAMGAmembersforcoursesandseminars.Approximatelyfour$250scholarshipsareawardedannuallyfromthissource.In1996weestablishedtheAMGA Scott Fischer Education Fund.Itprovidesscholarshipstomaleand female individuals wishing to take courses in ouralpine program. Scott Fischer embodied the spirit ofguiding and loved high altitude mountaineering. Inhishonor this fundhasbeen establishedhelp supportclimberswhohavechosenguidingasaprofession.The Mike Hattrup/XO Net Ski Mountaineering Guide Exam Scholarship Fundwasestablishedin2001.MikehattrupisanAMGAcertifiedSkiMountaineeringGuideandlongtimeextremeskier.ThisscholarshipwasformedbyMikehattrupandXO/Nettoadvancetheprofes-sionofskiguidinginAmerica.Onequalifiedindi-vidualayearwillreceive$500towardtheAMGASkiMountaineeringExam.Jim Ratzwasaninspirationtomanyguidesacrossthecountry.JimwasapastVicePresidentoftheAMGAandExecutiveDirectorofNOLS.InhishonortheJimRatzMemorial IFMGA Grant has been established to helpsupportguideswhoarefinishingIFMGAcertification.

Black Diamond, Patagonia, W.L Gore, Marmot, Petzl, Mountain Hardware, The North Face, Arc’teryx, Casio, Backcountry Access, Walker Family Foundation and Mammut haveestablishedadditionalscholarships.Pleasevisitourwebsiteformoreinformationregardingallscholarshipsofferedforthe2007programyear.

AMGA FREQUENTLYASkEDQUESTIONS

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I began guiding professionally in the year __________ (not required for Student and Associate membersI guide professionally about _________ days per year (not required for Student and Associate members)

Check the type of membership you are applying for.

*Individual Member Associate Member **Student Assoc. Member$115 check or money order $60 check or money order $40 check or money order

*For individual membership you must include with application • Resume of guided climbs, minimum 40 paid days in the last two years • Resume of personal climbs, minimum 20 climbs • At least two letters of reference (from an employer, fellow guide or client)**Include proof of enrollment with Student Associate Member

Please mail memebership application, payment + resumes (if applying for individual membership) to: Membership, P.O. Box 1739, Boulder, CO 80306.

Yes, I’d like to make an additional, tax-deductible contribution to further support the AMGA. I have enclosed $_________

If you wish to pay by credit card please fill out the following: Circle Card Type (Visa and MC only):

Credit Card Number Expiration Date:

Name on card: ________________________________________________

I agree to support high standards of safety and professionalism in mountain guiding and instruction. I understand that the AMGA does not condone guiding without appropriate authorization and that the AMGA does not endorse any illegal guiding, whether in the US. or another country. I also understand that I, or any AMGA member may be subject to the loss of membership, accreditation or certification if such practices occur.

Signature _____________________________________ Date ______________

AMGA MEMBERShIPFORM

�2

Name _____________________________Date of Birth ____________ Gender _______

Guide service I work for ___________________________________________________

Address ________________________________________________________________

City __________________________________________ State _________ Zip ________

Work Phone __________________ Home Phone ________________ Fax ___________

Email __________________________

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AMGA COURSEAPPLICATIONPlease fill out course information as it applies to the course you are applying for.

Refer to the course catalog for list of prerequisites per course

Course Information:

Course Type (circle one) R� RGC AGC AAGC SGC SMGC

Course ID# (i.e. R1):______________Course Date:___________________Course Location:___________________

2nd Choice Course Type (circle one) R� RGC AGC AAGC SGC SMGC

Course ID# (i.e. R1):______________Course Date:___________________Course Location:___________________

Tuition Enclosed: $ ________________ (25% of tuition is required with course application, the balance is due six weeks before the start of course)

Personal Contact Information:

Name_____________________________________________

Address____________________________________________

City_____________________ State_______Zip____________

Home Phone________________________________________

Cell Phone__________________________________________

Work Phone_________________________________________

Fax________________________________________________

Email Address (required)______________________________

Date of birth (mm,dd,yy)______________________________

Gender_________

Emergency Contact Information:

Name______________________________________________

Address____________________________________________

City_____________________ State_______Zip____________

Home Phone________________________________________

Cell Phone__________________________________________

Work Phone_________________________________________

Fax________________________________________________


Relation______________________________

If you wish to pay by credit card please fill out the following:

Name on card:______________________________________

Credit Card Number & Expiration Date:

Card Type: Visa or MC (only)

AMGA Membership:

You must be a current member to enroll in any course. Please refer to course prerequisites for membership level requirements.

Are you a current AMGA member?(If no please include a separate membership application and check)

(Please circle one) Yes No

Would you like a free T-shirt with course?


What Size? S M L XL

General overview of experience level:

_________________________________________

_________________________________________

_________________________________________

_________________________________________

_________________________________________

_________________________________________

_________________________________________

_________________________________________

�5

AMGACOURSEAPPLICATIONReferences: First person familiar with your climbing/guiding experience:

Name: ____________________________________________ Phone: ______________________________________

Second person familiar with your climbing/guiding experience:

Name: ____________________________________________ Phone: ______________________________________

Overview of experience: fill in the blanks appropriate to you & the course you are applying:

1. In what year did you start personally: Rock Climbing? ______Alpine Climbing? ______ Ski Touring?______

2. How many days per year do you guide: Rock Climbing? ______Alpine Climbing? ______ SkiTouring?______ 3. What year did you start professionally guiding: Rock Climbing? ______Alpine Climbing? ______ Ski Touring? _____

4. If you have you taken an AMGA course before, what course was it, when, who was the instructor(s)?

________________________________________________________________________________________________

5. How many days have you guided since taking the course? ____________________

Course Application Check List:

Please enclose all listed materials with this completed application (only complete applications will be accepted)[ ] Membership application (if you are not a member) [ ] AMGA Liability Release Form[ ] Course deposit in US Funds in the form of check, money order, or credit card (Visa or MC) number (see price info on the AMGA website)[ ] Copy of your medical certification documentation (if required in course prerequisites)[ ] Copy of Avalanche Training Certification (if required in course prerequisites)

Please email the following to [email protected][ ] Personal climbs resume[ ] Guided climbs resume (if required in course prerequisites, refer to course catalog)

Acknowledgment:1. I have read and understand and have signed the AMGA Liability Release.

2. I understand that at anytime the AMGA has the right to refuse my participation in the course due to any of the following: a) violation of the payment policy; b) false information on this application or my climbing resume; c) inadequate equipment or experience.

3. I have read and understand the AMGA policies (listed in the AMGA course catalog) and understand that I will forfeit the full course cost if I cancel with less than 6 weeks notice or if cancellation is not in writing, regardless of cause (this especially includes injuries!). Full refund is available up to 6 weeks prior to the course start date.

Signature of Applicant: ___________________________________________________ Date_____________________

Send complete applications to:Email: [email protected] Or mail to : AMGA Courses PO Box 1739 Boulder, CO. 80306

Please fill out course information as it applies to the course you are applying for.

Refer to the course catalog for list of prerequisites per course

Exam Information:

Exam Type (circle one) RIE RGE AGE SMGE

Exam ID# (i.e. RGE):______________Exam Date:___________________Exam Location:___________________

2nd Exam Type (circle one) RIE RGE AGE SMGE

Exam ID# (i.e. AGE):______________Exam Date:___________________Exam Location:___________________

Tuition Enclosed: $ ________________ (25% of tuition is required with course application, the balance is due six weeks before the start of course)

Personal Contact Information:

Name_____________________________________________

Address____________________________________________

City_____________________ State_______Zip____________

Home Phone________________________________________

Cell Phone__________________________________________

Work Phone_________________________________________

Fax________________________________________________


Date of birth (mm,dd,yy)______________________________

Gender_________

Emergency Contact Information:

Name______________________________________________

Address____________________________________________

City_____________________ State_______Zip____________

Home Phone________________________________________

Cell Phone__________________________________________

Work Phone_________________________________________

Fax________________________________________________


Relation______________________________

If you wish to pay by credit card please fill out the following:

Name on card:______________________________________

Credit Card Number & Expiration Date:

Card Type: Visa or MC (only)

�6

AMGAEXAMAPPLICATIONPAGE1

AMGA Membership:

You must be a current member to enroll in any course. Please refer to course prerequisites for membership level requirements.

Are you a current AMGA member?(If no please include a separate membership application and check)


Would you like a free T-shirt with course?


What Size? S M L XL

General overview of experience level:

_________________________________________

_________________________________________

_________________________________________

_________________________________________

_________________________________________

_________________________________________

_________________________________________

_________________________________________

�7

AMGAEXAMAPPLICATIONPAGE2References: First person familiar with your climbing/guiding experience:

Name: ____________________________________________ Phone: ______________________________________

Second person familiar with your climbing/guiding experience:

Name: ____________________________________________ Phone: ______________________________________

Overview of experience: fill in the blanks appropriate to you & the course you are applying:

1. In what year did you start personally: Rock Climbing? ______Alpine Climbing? ______ Ski Touring?______

2. How many days per year do you guide: Rock Climbing? ______Alpine Climbing? ______ SkiTouring?______ 3. What year did you start professionally guiding: Rock Climbing? ______Alpine Climbing? ______ Ski Touring? _____

4. If you have you taken an AMGA course before, what course was it, when, who was the instructor(s)?

________________________________________________________________________________________________

5. How many days have you guided since taking the course? ____________________

Exam Application Check List:

Please enclose all listed materials with this completed application (only complete applications will be accepted)[ ] Membership application (if you are not a member) [ ] AMGA Liability Release Form[ ] Course deposit in US Funds in the form of check, money order, or credit card (Visa or MC) number (see price info on the AMGA website)[ ] Copy of your medical certification documentation (if required in course prerequisites)[ ] Copy of Avalanche Training Certification (if required in course prerequisites)

Please email the following to [email protected][ ] Personal climbs resume[ ] Guided climbs resume (if required in course prerequisites, refer to course catalog)

Acknowledgment:1. I have read and understand and have signed the AMGA Liability Release.

2. I understand that at anytime the AMGA has the right to refuse my participation in the course due to any of the ollowing: a) violation of the payment policy; b) false information on this application or my climbing resume; c) inadequate equipment or experience.

3. I have read and understand the AMGA policies (listed in the AMGA course catalog) and understand that I will forfeit the full course cost if I cancel with less than 6 weeks notice or if cancellation is not in writing, regardless of cause this especially includes injuries!). Full refund is available up to 6 weeks prior to the course start date.

Signature of Applicant: ___________________________________________________ Date_____________________

Send complete exam applications to:Email: [email protected] Or mail to : AMGA Courses PO Box 1739 Boulder, CO. 80306

�8

AMGA LIABILITYWAIVER

IMPORTANT: THIS IS A LEGAL DOCUMENT

Please read and understand this document before signing. If you have any questions please ask us or consult an attorney

The American Mountain Guides Association, its agents, employees, members, Board of Directors, instructors and volunteers, (hereinafter AMGA) have done everything possible to assure that our guests experience a rewarding experience. We wish to inform our guests that rock climbing is not risk free. The same elements that contribute to the unique character and fun of rock climbing such as the physical exertion or the height can cause loss or damage to equipment, injury, illness, or in extreme cases, permanent trauma or death. We do not want to heighten or reduce your enthusiasm for the experience, but we do want you to know in advance what to expect, and to be informed of the some of the possible risks. We ask that you read this, sign it, and return it to our office.

ACKNOWLEDGMENT OF RISK

Rock climbing and using indoor climbing walls like all recreation activities is hazardous. The obvious accidents that occur in climbing are falling while climbing. Whenever you fall you may fall only a few feet or all the way to the ground. As you fall you may hit objects or the wall that are in your path. If the rope catches your fall the jolt from the rope may cause injury. Falling to the ground may cause serious injury from any height.

In addition to the hazards of falling, objects falling off the wall may hit you. Holds, climbing equipment and even peo-ple may fall and hit you as you are standing at the base or while climbing.Equipment may fail. Climbing equipment is tested before use, however the extreme conditions of the environment in which climbing equipment is used in conjunction with the damages caused by the wall can cause climbing equipment to fail. Improper use of the equipment or not property tying in will result in injury. The climbing hold may spin or break. As you climb you may pull out protection from the wall or it may become unclipped.

You will experience cuts from holding on to the holds or wall. You may also experience rope burns from handling the rope.

It is also possible that some participants would suffer mental anguish or trauma from the experience or their injuries.

This list is not an exclusive or exhaustive list of possible injuries, trauma or accidents that may occur while climbing. Most of these injuries are rare and you are not likely to encounter them, however they have occurred and you need to know about them and other possible injuries not mentioned above. These injuries occur more often when the par-ticipants are using drugs or alcohol or not physically able to undertake the activity.

I certify that my family, including minor children and myself are fully capable of participating in a climbing program I state that I have read the above statement on some of the possible risks in this activity. Therefore, I assume full responsibility for myself, my family, including minor children, for bodily injury, death and loss of personal property and any expenses as a result of my negligence, negligence of my family, or the negligence of AMGA I also understand that AMGA reserves the right to refuse any person it judges to be incapable of meeting the rigors and requirements of participating in rock climbing. My family and I are in good physical condition and able to undertake this activity.

CONTRACT, WAIVER, RELEASE AND INDEMNIFICATION

I agree to indemnify and hold harmless AMGA their agents and employees from all claims, damages, losses, injuries, and expenses arising out of or resulting from participation in these activities. I further agree to release, acquit and covenant not to sue AMGA, their agents and employees for all actions causes of action claims or damages, damages in law or rem-edies in equity of whatever kind, including the negligence of AMGA or my family, myself, or my heirs, against AMGA aris-ing out of participation in this program. In short, I cannot sue AMGA and if I do, I cannot collect any money.I agree to the site of any lawsuit and the law governing any such lawsuit shall be Colorado and governed by Colorado law. The terms of this agreement shall continue and be in effect after the rock-climbing trip has ended.

�9

AMGA LIABILITYWAIVER

As liquidated damages, I hereby agree that if AMGA is forced to defend any action, lawsuit or litigation by myself, my executors, or my heirs, on my family’s or my behalf, my heirs or executors and I agree to pay AMGA costs and attorney fees if they successfully defend such action, lawsuit or litigation. Should a court of competent jurisdiction declare any paragraph or part of this agreement unenforceable, the remaining parts or paragraphs shall remain in full force and effect.

I acknowledge that no guarantees have been made with respect to achieving objectives.I authorize and release to AMGA the use of my image in any photograph or video recording for any purpose of AMGA I have adequate health, disability, and life insurance for my family and myself.

I hereby give permission for transportation to any medical facility or hospital and I authorize for any qualified guide or

medical personnel to render necessary emergency medical care for my family or myself.

I, _________________________________________________, of my own free will, for my family, my minor children,

my heirs and executors and myself, have read, understand and acknowledge the risks and liability for myself, and my

family this _______ day of ___________________________ 2006.

A copy of this release can be used as if it was an original.

[__] By checking this box, I indicate that my family and I have previous climbing experience.

[__] No one in my family or I have any medical condition that would prevent our participation in this activity

except: ____________________________________________.

I have read and understood this agreement.

FIRST PARTICIPANT SIGNATURE____________________________________________________________

PRINTED NAME_____________________________________________________________________________

SECOND PARTICIPANT SIGNATURE____________________________________________________________

PRINTED NAME_____________________________________________________________________________

THIRD PARTICIPANT SIGNATURE____________________________________________________________

PRINTED NAME_____________________________________________________________________________

ADDRESS___________________________ PHONE: [_____]________________

IN CASE OF EMERGENCY PLEASE CONTACT:____________________________________________________

PHONE: ____________________________________________________________________________________

I CARRY MEDICAL INSURANCE? YES _____ NO _____ GROUP NUMBER: _____________________________

NAME OF PROVIDER: _______________________________________ Copyright 2000, James H. Moss, (303)980-5353, 12340 W. Alameda Pkwy, Lakewood, Colorado, 80228

50

AMGA MOUNTAINEERINGIMPORTANT: THIS IS A LEGAL DOCUMENTPlease read and understand this document before signing. If you have any questions please ask us or consult an attorney. The American Mountain Guides Association, its agents, employees, members, Board of Directors, instructors and volunteers, (hereinafter AMGA) have done everything possible to assure that our guests experience a rewarding experience. We wish to inform our guests that exploring the MOUNTAINEERING is not risk free. The same elements that contribute to the unique character and fun of exploring the Mountains such as the physical exertion or the living outdoors can cause loss or damage to equipment, injury, illness, or in extreme cases, permanent trauma, or death. We do not want to heighten or reduce your enthusiasm for the experience, but we do want you to know in advance what to expect, and to be informed of the some of the possible risks. We ask that you read this, sign it, and return it to our office.

ACKNOWLEDGMENT OF RISKYou will be living, camping, and traveling out of doors, where you are subject to numerous risks, environmental and otherwise. Activities vary from trip to trip and include hiking, backpacking, camping, rock climbing and mountaineering. Meals are prepared over stoves and sometimes-open fires, water often requires disinfecting before use. Camping hazards may include burns, cuts, titan diarrhea and flu-like illness, and falling timber.

Travel is by vehicle and on foot. Travel by foot is over rugged unpredictable trail and off-trail terrain, including boulder fields, downed timber, river crossings, high mountain passes, snow and ice, steep slopes, and slippery rocks. Attendant risks include collision, falling; drowning and others usually associated with such travel, as well as environmental risks.

Environmental risks include rapidly moving, deep or cold water, insects snakes, and predators, including large animals; falling and rolling rock: lightning, avalanches, flash floods, and unpredictable forces of nature, including weather that may change to extreme conditions without notice. Additional risks are frostbite, high altitude illness, sunburn, heatstroke, dehydration, and other mild or serious conditions.

Decisions are made by the instructors and participants in a wildness setting, based on a variety of perceptions and evaluations which by their nature are imprecise and subject to errors in judgment. Participants may have free and unsupervised time. Throughout the trip, participants are responsible for their own safety and for the safety of other members of their group.

Rock climbing like all outdoor recreation activities is hazardous. The obvious accidents that occur in rock climbing are falling while climbing. Whenever you fall you may fall only a few feet or all the way to the ground. As you fall you may hit objects or the rock the are in your path. If the rope breaks your fall, the jolt from the rope may cause injury. Falling to the ground may cause serious injury from any height. In addition to the hazards of falling, objects falling off the rock may hit you. Rocks, branches, climbing equipment and even people may fall and hit you as you are standing at the base or while climbing.

Equipment may fail. Climbing and Mountaineering equipment is tested before use, however the extreme conditions of the environment in which climbing equipment is used in conjunction with the damages caused by the rock can cause climbing equipment to fail. The rock may brake to which you are holding or to which you have placed protection causing you to fall or causing your protection to pull out from the rock. As you climb you may pull out protection from the rock. You will experience cuts from holding on to the rock. You may also experience rope burns from handling the rope.

You may experience Ice Climbing or moving across snowfields on your trip. Ice Climbing is a technical activity involving the use of ice axes and crampons. Ice axes must be used properly to be effective and to prevent injury to you or other people. Crampons have sharp points on the bottom and front of the boot. These points are dangerous to you and other people. Make sure you understand how to walk in crampons before doing so.

Ice Climbing involves cold, water and ice on the vertical. Moving vertical on ice requires some strength and skill. Ice is constantly falling and can cause injury if you are hit by it. Other objects that fall due to thawing or knocked down by the ice may also hit you.

Glacier travel is dangerous. Crossing crevasses or walking over snow bridges covering a crevasse can always lead to a fall. You will need to learn and understand crevasse rescue on this trip. Falling into a crevasse can cause injuries due to the fall or objects hitting you during and after your fall. You may also be injured while stopping in the bottom or wedging into the sides. Once in a crevasse you will be subject to cold and hypothermia.

Another aspect of glacier travel you need to be aware of is the dangerous from seracs, ice and snow. Many times while crossing glaciers or hiking in the mountains, you will be in an area where seracs or ice can fall injuring or killing you. Seracs are large blocks of ice you may need to walk near or around. Avalanches are also a constant threat in the mountains. An avalanche is a snow that has released from the mountain and is moving down the mountainside. If you are trapped in an avalanche you can be injured by the avalanche or trapped in the avalanche, which may kill you.

You will trek at altitudes, which you will not be accustomed. You will be hiking to at least ______ feet (___________ meters) and possibly _________ feet (___________ meters) above sea level. Altitude sickness is the term used to describe the effects on a human body at altitudes higher than the person is accustomed to. Altitude sickness is usually associated with nauseous, headaches and a loss of appetite. If this occurs, you need to contact your guides immediately.

I understand the Mountaineering which I am undertaking includes a high degree of risk I can become Hypothermic. Hypothermia is the name for a medical condition where the core body temperature drops to a point that the body is unable to maintain and heat itself. Hypothermia means you are becoming cold enough to die. Being wet and in the wind contributes to Hypothermia. Make sure you have adequate clothing to combat Hypothermia. Hypothermia can quickly result in death.

AMGA MOUNTAINEERING

5�

High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) occur when you are at altitudes and have not acclimated properly. HAPE and HACE can be fatal if not treated quickly. Treatment is quick decent to a lower altitude.

Medical care, as you understand it is not available outside the United States. You will be several hours travel by water, porter or other non-vehicular transportation from any medical facility. The medical facility you may be treated in will not have the same standards as hospitals or doctor’s offices in the United States. The medical personnel you will be treated by may not have the same training as medical personnel in the U.S. Decisions are made by the instructors and participants in a wildness setting, based on a variety of perceptions and evaluations which by their nature are imprecise and subject to errors in judgment. Participants may have free and unsupervised time. Throughout the program, participants are responsible for their own safety and for the safety of other members of their group. It is also possible that some participants would suffer mental anguish or trauma from the experience or their injuries.

This list is not an exclusive or exhaustive list of possible injuries, trauma, or accidents that may occur while exploring the MOUNTAINEERING. Most of these injuries are rare and you are not likely to encounter them, however they have occurred and you need to know about them, and other possible injuries not mentioned above. These injuries occur more often when the participants are using drugs or alcohol or not physically able to undertake the Mountaineering. I understand there are no guarantees in mountaineering at this level. These guarantees involve any promise of attaining a summit as well as any guaranty of my survival. High altitude mountaineering is an activity involving a high degree of risk. I understand and agree to assume those risks.

CONTRACT, WAIVER, RELEASE AND INDEMNIFICATIONI certify that my family, including minor children and I are fully capable of participating in the MOUNTAINEERING program. I state that I have read the above statement on some of the possible risks in this Mountaineering. Therefore, I assume full responsibility for myself, my family, including minor children, for bodily injury, death and loss of personal property and any expenses as a result of my negligence, negligence of my family, or the negligence of AMGA. I also understand that AMGA reserves the right to refuse any person it judges to be incapable of meeting the rigors and requirements of participating in the MOUNTAINEERING. My family and I are in good physical condition and able to undertake this Mountaineering.

I agree to indemnify and hold harmless AMGA their agents and employees from all claims, damages, losses, injuries and expenses arising out of or resulting from my families or my participation in these activities. I further agree to release, acquit and covenant not to sue AMGA, their agents, and employees for all actions causes of action claims or damages, damages in law or remedies in equity of whatever kind, including the negligence of AMGA or my family, myself, or my heirs, against AMGA arising out of participation in this program. In short, I cannot sue AMGA and if I do, I cannot collect any money. I agree to the site of any lawsuit and the law governing any such lawsuit shall be STATE and governed by STATE law. The terms of this agreement shall continue and be in effect after the exploring the MOUNTAINEERING trip has ended.

As liquidated damages, I hereby agree that if AMGA is forced to defend any action, lawsuit or litigation by myself, my executors, or my heirs, on my family’s or my behalf, my heirs or executors and I agree to pay AMGA’S costs and attorney fees if they successfully defend such action, lawsuit or litigation. Should a court of competent jurisdiction declare any paragraph or part of this agreement unenforceable, the remaining parts or paragraphs shall remain in full force and effect. A copy of this release can be used as if it was an original.

I authorize and release to AMGA the use of my image in any photograph or video recording for any purpose of AMGA. I have adequate health, disability, and life insurance for my family and myself. I hereby give permission for transportation to any medical facility or hospital and I authorize for any qualified guide or medical personnel to render necessary emergency medical care for my family or myself.

I, _________________________________________________, of my own free will, for my family, my minor children, my heirs and executors and

myself, have read, understand and acknowledge the risks and liability for myself, and my family this _______ day of ___________________2006.

[__] By checking this box, I indicate that my family and I have previous mountaineering experience.[__] No one in my family or I have any medical condition that would prevent our participation in this Mountaineering except

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________.FIRST PARTICIPANT SIGNATURE PRINTED NAME

ADDRESS_______________________________________________________________________Telephone: [_____]____________________

In case of Emergency please contact: Name: __________________________________________ Telephone: [_____]____________________ I carry Medical Insurance? Yes _____ no _____ Group Number:

Name of provider: ___________________________________________________________________________________________________

I have Purchased Travel Insurance for this Trip Yes ___ No ___ Provider: _______________________________________________________Copyright 1999, James H. Moss, (303) 980-5353, 12340 W. Alameda Pkwy, Lakewood, Colorado, 80228

AMGA MOCkGUIDING/GUIDERESUME

52

FORMS

AMGA PROGRAM CATALOG

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bs:

Size in Rock Shoes

AMGA PERSONALROCkRESUME

5�

FORMS


FORMS

WWW.AMGA.COM56 57


own resum

e form w

ith the same inform

ationN

ame:

Please indicate your comfortable leading ability

on:Rock in rock shoes

Guiding Rock Resum

eRating

Grade

# of PitchesRoute N

ame

Area

Yr. Clim

bedCom

pleted# of tim

es climbed

# of Cliients

Examples:

5.10+VI

6Black D

aggerRM

NP, CO

2001yes

11

5.9II

2H

air CityEldorado, CO

2002yes

32

5.11III

4Lightning Bolt Cracks

Indian Creek, UT

2002yes

12


bs:

Am

erican Mountain G

uides Association

Mock G

uiding/Guide Rock Resum

e

*Ple

ase u

se th

is as

a te

mpl

ate a

nd cr

eate

you

r ow

n re

sum

e for

m w

ith th

e sam

e inf

orm

atio

nA

mer

ican

Mou

ntai

n G

uide

s A

ssoc

iatio

nPe

rson

al R

ock

Res

ume

Nam

e:Pl

ease

indi

cate

you

r com

forta

ble l

eadi

ng ab

ility

on

:Ro

ck in

rock

shoe

s

Pers

onal

Roc

k Re

sum

eRa

ting

Gra

de#

of P

itche

sRo

ute N

ame

Are

aY

r. Cl

imbe

dCo

mpl

eted

# of

tim

es cl

imbe

d

Exam

ples

:

5.10

+VI

6Bl

ack

Dag

ger

RMN

P, C

O20

01ye

s1

5.9

II2

Hai

r City

Eldo

rado

, CO

2002

yes

35.

11II

I4

Ligh

tnin

g Bo

lt Cr

acks

Indi

an C

reek

, UT

2002

yes

1

Tota

l num

ber o

f clim

bs:

Size

in R

ock

Shoe

s

AMGA MOCkGUIDING/GUIDINGALPINERESUME

5�

FORMS


FORMS

WWW.AMGA.COM58 59


own resum

e form w

ith the same inform

atione.

Nam

e:

Please indicate your comfortable leading ability on:

Rock in rock shoesRock in cram

ponsRock in M

tn. BootsW

ater Ice,WI grade

Guiding A

lpine Resume

RatingG

rade# of Pitches

Glaciated Route

Route Nam

eA

reaY

r Climbed

Completed

# of times clim

bed# of Clients

Examples:

WI 5

1The Fang

Vail, CO2001

yes1

150 degrees snow/AI 3

III7

yes-PlateauStandard

Mt. D

ickson, NZ

2002yes

12

5.8III

8South Face

Petit Grepon, RM

NP

2003yes

32


bs:

Am

erican Mountain G

uides Association

Mock G

uiding/Guiding A

lpine Resume

*Ple

ase u

se th

is as

a te

mpl

ate a

nd cr

eate

you

r ow

n re

sum

e for

m w

ith th

e sam

e inf

orm

atio

nA

mer

ican

Mou

ntai

n G

uide

s A

ssoc

iatio

nPe

rson

al A

lpin

e Res

ume

Nam

e:Pl

ease

indi

cate

you

r com

forta

ble l

eadi

ng ab

ility

on

:Ro

ck in

rock

shoe

sRo

ck in

cram

pons

Rock

in M

tn. B

oots

Wat

er Ic

e,WI g

rade

Pers

onal

Alp

ine R

esum

eRa

ting

Gra

de#

of P

itche

sG

laci

ated

Rou

teRo

ute N

ame

Are

aY

r Clim

bed

Com

plet

ed#

of ti

mes

clim

bed

Exam

ples

:

WI 5

1Th

e Fan

gVa

il, C

O20

01ye

s1

50 d

egre

es sn

ow/A

I 3II

I7

yes -

Pla

teau

Gla

cier

Stan

dard

Mt.

Dic

kson

, NZ

2002

yes

1

5.8

III

8So

uth

Face

Petit

Gre

pon,

RM

NP

2003

yes

3

Tota

l num

ber o

f clim

bs:

Size in Rock ShoesSize in Cram

ponsSize in M

nt. BootsW

ater, Ice WI

Grade

AMGA PERSONALALPINERESUME

55

FORMS


FORMS

WWW.AMGA.COM58 59


own resum

e form w

ith the same inform

atione.

Nam

e:

Please indicate your comfortable leading ability on:

Rock in rock shoesRock in cram

ponsRock in M

tn. BootsW

ater Ice,WI grade

Guiding A

lpine Resume

RatingG

rade# of Pitches

Glaciated Route

Route Nam

eA

reaY

r Climbed

Completed

# of times clim

bed# of Clients

Examples:

WI 5

1The Fang

Vail, CO2001

yes1

150 degrees snow/AI 3

III7

yes-PlateauStandard

Mt. D

ickson, NZ

2002yes

12

5.8III

8South Face

Petit Grepon, RM

NP

2003yes

32


bs:

Am

erican Mountain G

uides Association

Mock G

uiding/Guiding A

lpine Resume

*Ple

ase u

se th

is as

a te

mpl

ate a

nd cr

eate

you

r ow

n re

sum

e for

m w

ith th

e sam

e inf

orm

atio

nA

mer

ican

Mou

ntai

n G

uide

s A

ssoc

iatio

nPe

rson

al A

lpin

e Res

ume

Nam

e:Pl

ease

indi

cate

you

r com

forta

ble l

eadi

ng ab

ility

on

:Ro

ck in

rock

shoe

sRo

ck in

cram

pons

Rock

in M

tn. B

oots

Wat

er Ic

e,WI g

rade

Pers

onal

Alp

ine R

esum

eRa

ting

Gra

de#

of P

itche

sG

laci

ated

Rou

teRo

ute N

ame

Are

aY

r Clim

bed

Com

plet

ed#

of ti

mes

clim

bed

Exam

ples

:

WI 5

1Th

e Fan

gVa

il, C

O20

01ye

s1

50 d

egre

es sn

ow/A

I 3II

I7

yes -

Pla

teau

Gla

cier

Stan

dard

Mt.

Dic

kson

, NZ

2002

yes

1

5.8

III

8So

uth

Face

Petit

Gre

pon,

RM

NP

2003

yes

3

Tota

l num

ber o

f clim

bs:

Wat

er, I

ce W

IG

rade

Size

in M

nt. B

oots

Size

in C

ram

pons

Size

in R

ock

Shoe

s

AMGA MOCkGUIDING/GUIDINGSkIRESUME

56

FORMS


FORMS

WWW.AMGA.COM60 61


own resum

e form w

ith the same inform

ation

Nam

e:

Please indicate your comfortable skiing ability:

PSIA level

Guiding Ski Resum

eLevel of D

iffi cultly G

rade# of days

Glaciated

Route Nam

eA

reaY

r. SkiedCom

pleted# of tim

es skied# of Clients

Examples:

45 degrees1

yesLa Vot

La Grave, France

2003yes

23

50 degrees2

yesEm

phaphure La G

rave, France2003

yes1

4

45 degrees1

noD

ragon Tail CouloirRM

NP, CO

2002yes

12

Total number of decents:

Am

erican Mountain G

uides Association

Mock G

uiding/Guiding Ski Resum

e

*Ple

ase u

se th

is as

a te

mpl

ate a

nd cr

eate

you

r ow

n re

sum

e for

m w

ith th

e sam

e inf

orm

atio

nA

mer

ican

Mou

ntai

n G

uide

s A

ssoc

iatio

nPe

rson

al S

ki R

esum

eN

ame:

Plea

se in

dica

te y

our c

omfo

rtabl

e ski

ing

abili

ty:

PSIA

leve

l

Pers

onal

Ski

Res

ume

Leve

l of D

iffi c

ultly

G

rade

# of

day

sG

laci

ated

Rout

e Nam

eA

rea

Yr.

Skie

dCo

mpl

eted

# of

tim

es sk

ied

Exam

ples

:

45 d

egre

es1

yes

La V

otLa

Gra

ve, F

ranc

e20

03ye

s2

50 d

egre

es2

yes

Emph

aphu

re

La G

rave

, Fra

nce

2003

yes

1

45 d

egre

es1

noD

rago

n Ta

il Co

uloi

rRM

NP,

CO

2002

yes

1

Tota

l num

ber o

f dec

ents:

AMGA PERSONALSkIRESUME

57

FORMS


FORMS

WWW.AMGA.COM60 61


own resum

e form w

ith the same inform

ation

Nam

e:

Please indicate your comfortable skiing ability:

PSIA level

Guiding Ski Resum

eLevel of D

iffi cultly G

rade# of days

Glaciated

Route Nam

eA

reaY

r. SkiedCom

pleted# of tim

es skied# of Clients

Examples:

45 degrees1

yesLa Vot

La Grave, France

2003yes

23

50 degrees2

yesEm

phaphure La G

rave, France2003

yes1

4

45 degrees1

noD

ragon Tail CouloirRM

NP, CO

2002yes

12

Total number of decents:

Am

erican Mountain G

uides Association

Mock G

uiding/Guiding Ski Resum

e

*Ple

ase u

se th

is as

a te

mpl

ate a

nd cr

eate

you

r ow

n re

sum

e for

m w

ith th

e sam

e inf

orm

atio

nA

mer

ican

Mou

ntai

n G

uide

s A

ssoc

iatio

nPe

rson

al S

ki R

esum

eN

ame:

Plea

se in

dica

te y

our c

omfo

rtabl

e ski

ing

abili

ty:

PSIA

leve

l

Pers

onal

Ski

Res

ume

Leve

l of D

iffi c

ultly

G

rade

# of

day

sG

laci

ated

Rout

e Nam

eA

rea

Yr.

Skie

dCo

mpl

eted

# of

tim

es sk

ied

Exam

ples

:

45 d

egre

es1

yes

La V

otLa

Gra

ve, F

ranc

e20

03ye

s2

50 d

egre

es2

yes

Emph

aphu

re

La G

rave

, Fra

nce

2003

yes

1

45 d

egre

es1

noD

rago

n Ta

il Co

uloi

rRM

NP,

CO

2002

yes

1

Tota

l num

ber o

f dec

ents:

AMGA PROGRAMSChEDULE2007

We would like to thank our Diamond Partners

Black DiamondCasio Pathfinder

GORE-TEX & Windstopper,MammutMarmot

The North Face

Please refer to new AMGA Program Flowchart for inquiries regarding program changes, prices, and structure.

Ski Discipline:S1: SGC- Red Mountain Pass, CO 12/28-1/8 5:1 12 $2,200S2; SGC- Aspen, CO 1/18-29 5:1 12 $2,200S3: SMGC/AE- La Grave, France 2/18-27 4:1 10 $2,200S4: SMGE -Marmot- La Grave, France 3/4-11 4:1 8 $1,600S5: SGC- Cascades, WA 3/5-16 5:1 12 $2,200S6: SMGC/AE- Cascades, WA 3/12-21 4:1 10 $2,200S7: SMGE- Marmot-Cascades WA 3/5-12 4:1 8 $1,600S8: SMGC/AE- Valdez, AK 5/1-10 4:1 10 $2,200S9: SMGE- Marmot-Valdez, AK 5/1-8 4:1 8 $1,600

Rock Discipline:R1: RIC – Joshua Tree, CA 3/20-29 3:1 10 $2,000R2: RIE – Joshua Tree, CA 3/31-4/5 2:1 6 $1,600R3: RGE –Black Diamond- Red Rock, NV 4/9-14 2:1 6 $1,400R4: RGC/AE – Red Rock, NV 4/16-25 3:1 10 $2,000R5: RGC/AE –Eldorado Canyon, CO 4/30-5/9 3:1 10 $2,000R6: RIC – N. Carolina 4/16-25 3:1 10 $2,000R7: RIE – Boulder, CO 5/14-19 2:1 6 $1,600R8: RIC – Boulder, CO 5/21-30 3:1 10 $2,000R9: RGE- Black Diamond- Boulder, CO 6/4-9 2:1 6 $1,400R10: RIE- N. Conway, NH 6/16-21 2:1 6 $1,600R11: RIC- Shawngunks, NY 6/4-13 3:1 10 $2,000R12: RIC– N. Conway, NH 9/5-14 3:1 10 $2,000R13: RIE – Boulder, CO 9/3-8 2:1 6 $1,600R14: RIE – N. Conway, NH 10/8-13 2:1 6 $1,600R15: RGC/AE –Eldorado Canyon, CO 9/10-19 3:1 10 $2,000R16: RGC/AE- Red Rock, NV 9/17-26 3:1 10 $2,000R17: RGE – Black Diamond- Red Rock, NV 10/1-6 2:1 6 $1,400R18: RGC/AE – Red Rock, NV 10/8-17 3:1 10 $2,000

Alpine discipline:A1: AGC – RMNP, CO 5/7-16 3:1 10 $2,000A2: AGC – RMNP, CO 5/21-30 3:1 10 $2,000A3: AGC- Cascades. WA 6/18-27 3:1 10 $2,000A4: AAGC/AE – Cascades, WA 7/9-20 3:1 12 $2,200A5: AAGC/AE – Bugs/Icefields, Canada 8/20-31 3:1 12 $2,200A6: AGE – The North Face-Bugs/Icefields 8/20-29 2:1 10 $2,000A7: AAGC/AE – Chamonix, France 9/17-28 3:1 12 $2,200A8: AGE, section1–North Face Cascades, WA 9/20-29 2:1 10 $2,000A8: AGE, section2–North Face Cascades, WA 9/20-29 2:1 10 $2,000A9: AAGC/AE- Cascades, WA 9/20-10/1 3:1 12 $2,200

Ice Endorsement:Ice: ICE- New Hampshire 2/5-9 3:1 5 $1000

SGC = Ski Guide Course. SMGC/AE = Ski Mountaineering Guide Course & Aspirant Exam.SMGE = Ski Mountaineering Guide Exam.RIC = Rock Instructor Course.RIE = Rock Instructor Exam.RGC/AE = Rock Guide Course and Aspirant Exam.RGE = Rock Guide Exam.AGC = Alpine Guide Course.AAGC/AE = Advanced Alpine Guide Course & Aspirant Exam.AGE = Alpine Guide Exam.

american mountain guides association - lauren di scipio

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