air canada enroute — july / juillet 2010

Making WavesA walk on the wild

side of Rio

Marche suivreRio hors des

sentiers battus

July / j u ille t 2010

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InsIdetapping into

englands real pub scene

Dans nos pagespubs sous pression

en angleterre

Job Desc.: BMW 5 Series F10 Print Campaign

Docket: BMWCA0075Client: BMWSupplier:Type Page: 17.125x 10.375 .375gutter Trim: 18" x 10.875"Bleed: 18.25 x 11.125Screen:Pub.: enRouteColour: 4C Date: May 12, 2010 Insert Date: June 1, 2010 Ad Number: BMWCA0075_ER_E_4C_

Beautiful_1

DkT./PRoJ: BMWCA0075

ArtWork ApprovAl

Artist:

Studio Mgr:

Production:

Proofreader:

Creative Dir.:

Art Director:

Copywriter:

Translator:

Acct. Service:

Client:

Proof: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Final

pDFx1a laser proof

IMAGE IS

MAG SpECD

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Cover / En couverturePhotographed by Lorne Bridgman in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, on May 11, 2010.

Photo prise par Lorne Bridgman Rio de Janeiro, au Brsil, le 11 mai 2010.

Travel VoyagE

43 New Wave Faire des vagues

We go with the flow in Newfoundlands Conception Bay and find that a bite of crispy seared cod makes us as giddy as hiking the dizzyingly high coastal paths. Au fil de leau, une croque de morue pole savre aussi tourdissante quune randonne dans les vertigi-neux sentiers ctiers de la baie de la Conception, Terre-Neuve. By / PAR JeaN-FRaNois LgaR

58 Urban Jungle Le bonheur est dans la fort

Being green goes to the next level in Rio de Janeiro, where a man-made rainforest grows out of an old coffee plantation, a public space sits on a landfill and a giant garden takes root in a former favela. Just watch out for the mon-keys. Une fort tropicale seme par lhomme dans une ancienne plantation de caf, une espla-nade construite sur un remblai et un immense jardin amnag sur une ancienne favela : Rio de Janeiro rinvente la jungle urbaine. Mais prenez garde aux singes.By / PAR susaN NeRBeRg

69 ItineraryItinraire

all you need to know before you go: hotels, restaurants, hot spots and more. Tout ce que vous devez savoir avant de partir : restos, htels, bonnes adresses et plus encore.

Residents of Rio de Janeiro know how to kick back on the beach and sport their local pride (page 58).Pour se dtendre sur la plage et profiter de la nature, les rsidants de Rio de Janeiro ont beau jeu (p. 58).

JUly 2010JuILLEt 2010

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Cant get enough travel stories? Weve got more, only on the web! Vous souhaitez

lire encore plus darticles de voyage ? Rendez-vous sur notre site web pour dautres ides inspirantes.

enroute.aircanada.com

6 enRoute7.2010

FeaturesArticles de fond

49 southern Hospitality Bienvenue dans le sud

Between elephant and giraffe sightings, our writer makes herself at home at Molori Safari Lodge, a South African residence-cum-retreat.

Entre deux excursions dobservation dl-phants et de girafes, notre journaliste fait comme chez elle au Molori Safari Lodge, une rsidence prive dAfrique du Sud convertie en auberge.By / PAR LAurA OSBOrne

53 rule, Brewtannia fts en bulles

A group of english pubs is reviving Britains bar scene by offering small-batch, hyper-local real ales whose difference you can taste (burnt popcorn, anyone?). Des pubs anglais font mousser le monde des bars britanniques en offrant des bires locales, produites petite chelle, aux saveurs franches (du popcorn brl, a vous dit ?). By / PAR Bert Archer

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95 the latest news, maps and more. Les dernires nouvelles et des cartes pratiques.

102 canadas Official Languages. Les langues officielles du Canada.

ALtituDE

july 2010juillet 2010


75 cBc literary Awards Second prize, Short Story: Down to the RootsBy ELiSSA VAnn StRuth

81 Prix littraires radio-canadaDeuxime prix, nouvelle : Un hombre soloPAR JRMiE LEDuC-LEBLAnC

21 PassPort PAssePort

hotel programs that treat teen guests like grown-ups, brasserie menus that look east for inspiration and the handiest of folding travel bags to help you get the goods. Plus, catherine Ohara on her favourite filming locations and our top hotel picks. Des htels voient grand pour leurs clients adolescents, des brasseries mettent lAsie au menu et des sacs de voyage se plient en quatre pour quon ait tout sous la main. Aussi : les lieux de tournage favoris de Catherine Ohara et notre choix dhtels.

regulars chroniques

14 letters courrier

16 letter from the editor-in-Chief le billet de la rdactrice en chef

39 Higher learning hautes tudes

theyre called the dinosaur of the sea, but B.c.s giant sturgeon have us hook, line and sinker on a fishing trip down the Fraser river.

la pche lesturgeon blanc (surnomm le dinosaure des mers) sur le Fraser, en Colombie-Britannique, nous sommes heureux comme un poisson dans leau. By / PAR Genevieve PAieMent

114 Flash

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Learn more about Edmonton through the stories of people who've experienced it at www.edmontonstories.ca

w w w . e d m o n t o n . c o m / l i v e a l l y e a r 1

live all year!edmonton

Art that ignites your mind, festivals that leave you wanting more and never-ending green space. Enter online at www.edmonton.com/liveallyear1 for a chance to win a Family Fun in the Summer Sun

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ETAirCan2010:Enroute 5/26/10 1:34 PM Page 1

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2010 enRoute is published monthly by Spafax Canada Inc. All rights reserved. Points of view expressed do not necessarily represent those of Air Canada. Copies of enRoute are available at $5 a copy for Canadian orders, US$6 for American orders and US$12 for international orders, or by subscription at $50 annually in Canada only. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject all advertising matter. The publisher assumes no liability for return or safety of unsolicited art, photographs or manuscripts.

2010 enRoute est publi mensuellement par Spafax Canada Inc. Tous droits rservs. Les points de vue formuls sont ceux des auteurs et ne reprsentent pas ncessairement ceux dAir Canada. On peut se procurer enRoute au cot de 5 $ par numro au Canada, de 6 $US pour envoi aux tats-Unis ou de 12 $US pour envoi ailleurs dans le monde ou, par abonnement, au cot de 50 $ annuellement, au Canada seulement. Lditeur se rserve le droit daccepter ou de refuser tout matriel publicitaire. Lditeur nest pas responsable des manuscrits, photographies ou autres documents non sollicits.

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Art that ignites your mind, festivals that leave you wanting more, never-ending green space and exhilarating events.

Enter online at www.edmonton.com/liveallyear1 for a chance to win a Family Fun in the Summer Sun grand prize - Airfare, tickets,

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Learn more about Edmonton through the stories of people who've experienced it at www.edmontonstories.ca

ETAirCan2010.5:Layout 1 5/27/10 2:40 PM Page 2

I live in Helsinki. Best moment when illustrating this story Enjoying a pint of real ale with a fresh perspective after the job was done. When I travel, I read anything local (provided I can understand it, of course). First travel memory Greece. I cried because it was so hot, my ice cream started melting as soon as I got my hands on it. When Im not illustrating for enRoute, I work with IdN, Lambi and Design Forum Finland. Je vis Helsinki. Meilleur moment pendant lillustra-tion de larticle Dguster une chope de vraie ale avec une nouvelle perception, aprs mtre acquitt de ma tche. En voyage, je lis tout ce que je peux trouver de local (si jarrive dchif-frer, bien sr). Premier souvenir de voyage La Grce. Il faisait si chaud que ma crme glace a fondu instantanment et je me suis mis pleurer. Quand je ne cre pas pour enRoute, je travaille pour IdN, Lambi et Design Forum Finland.

EMil BErtEll

53RuLe, BRewtannIa Fts en bulles

BErt ArchEr

53RuLe, BRewtannIa Fts en bulles

I live in Toronto. My assignment, in short Drink my way across England. I couldnt have done the article without a blessedly high tolerance for alcohol. On my iPod when I travel What? And miss the opportunity to eavesdrop on the people at the next table or down the bar? Never. Best travel tip Treat every messed-up plan as an opportunity for unscripted frolic. When Im not writing for enRoute, I contribute to Toronto Life and The Globe and Mail. Je vis toronto. Ma tche en bref Boire de la bire en angleterre. Je naurais pu faire cet article sans une prodi-gieuse tolrance lalcool. Sur mon iPod, en voyage Quoi ? et manquer ce qui se dit la table d ct ou plus loin au bar ? Jamais. conseil de voyage Chaque fois quun plan tombe leau, voyez cela comme une occasion de faire la fte. Quand je ncris pas pour enRoute, je collabore Toronto Life et au Globe and Mail.

We told

our engineers

to refine.

Y5284 Porsche All Model Ad 1-3 Enroute FP.indd 1 5/27/10 1:13:46 PM

COntRIButORSCOllAbORAteuRs

chriStoPhEr St. ongE

24ORIent expReSS un zeste dAsie

I live in Toronto. Best moment when styling the food for this story Eating those garlicky clams after the photo shoot. First travel memory Mickey Mouse. Favourite food city Tokyo for the noodles and the chirashi-don. On my iPod when I travel Something upbeat and jazzy, like Parov Stelar. Travel tip Pack light; travel often. When Im not working for enRoute, I contribute to Food & Drink and Chatelaine. Je vis toronto. Meilleur moment pendant le stylisme de larticle Manger les palourdes lail aprs la sance photo. Premier souvenir de voyage Mickey Mouse. Meilleure ville o manger tokyo, pour les nouilles et le chirashi-don. Sur mon iPod, en voyage De la musique rythme et jazzy, comme parov Stelar. conseil de voyage Voyagez lger, voyagez souvent. Quand je ne suis pas styliste culinaire pour enRoute, je collabore Food & Drink et Chtelaine.

I live in Montreal. Best moment when writ-ing this story Soaking in a steamy hot spring after hauling in my big catch. Last vacation Three weeks of steak eating in Buenos Aires. Best travel buddies An eye mask and ear-plugs. Next destination Maternity. When Im not writing for enRoute, I contribute to The Globe and Mail, The New York Times and to my blog about canning and preserves: considerthepantry.com. Je vis Montral. Meilleur moment pendant lcriture de larticle Mimmerger dans leau chaude dune source aprs mon impressionnante prise. Der nires vacances trois semaines manger du steak Buenos aires. compagnons de voyage un mas-que pour les yeux et des bouchons. Prochaine destination La maternit. Quand je ncris pas pour enRoute, je collabore au Globe and Mail, au New York Times et je tiens un blogue sur les conserves : considerthepantry.com.

gEnEviEvE PAiEMEnt

39LIke a StuRGeOn O eS-tu, eStuRGeOn ?

Pho

to: R

yan

MeR

igli

ano

(beR

t aR

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)

2010 Porsche Cars Canada, Ltd. Porsche recommends seatbelt usage and observance of all traffic laws at all times.

They redefined.

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Y5284 Porsche All Model Ad FP Enroute.indd 1 5/27/10 1:12:33 PM

Letter of the Month La lettre du moisChris Nuttall-Smiths article The Grapes of Wrath (March), extolling the magnificence of the Priorat wine country, revived many happy memories of that stunning area in Spain. As business development manager for a Nova Scotia lobster processor and exporter, Ive happily introduced the Canadian crustacean to the Catalan menu; in turn, the Catalans have rewarded me with an introduction to the won-derful world of Priorat wines. On one of my first visits to the region, I purchased a bottle of this robust vintage and ferried it to England as a gift for my wine-selling uncle, who proclaimed it was too good to accompany the take-away curry we enjoyed that night. Visca Priorat! Long live Priorat!Dan Evans Halifax

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Write enRoute welcomes your comments and questions about the content of this magazine. Letters may be edited for clarity and brevity, and are published in the language in which they are written. Please write or e-mail us at the addresses below. crivez-nous Nous vous invitons nous faire part de vos commentaires sur le contenu denRoute. Les lettres, publies dans leur langue originale, peuvent tre courtes. Veuillez nous crire par courrier ou courriel ladresse suivante.

enRoute Letters / Courrier 4200, boul. Saint-Laurent, bureau 707, Montral (Qubec) H2W 2R2 [email protected] / [email protected]

Prize of the

Month

Le prix du

mois In each issue, enRoute selects a letter of the month. This month, the prize-winning writer receives a lightweight polycarbonate suitcase with four spinner wheels from Rimowas Salsa Air series. Dans chaque numro, enRoute choisit la lettre du mois. Ce mois-ci, le gagnant reoit une valise en polycarbonate lger de la collection Salsa Air de Rimowa, quipe de quatre roulettes multidirectionnelles.

Et Loscar dE Pi ?Jai lu, il y a quelques annes, Lhistoire de Pi de Yann Martel. Jai ador le livre, mais jen connaissais bien peu sur lauteur. Merci donc pour cette entrevue avec lui ( Tte--tte , avril). Quoique courte, elle ma fait d cou vrir son ct aventurier et, par la mme occasion, ma fait rver de partir linconnu en toute simplicit. Jattends avec impatience la version cinmatogra-phique de Lhistoire de Pi.

Joseph Horvath Ottawa

stick shiftWhat is Canadas official sport? Having grown up in Montreal I know that question causes much debate. Was it hockey or lacrosse, or both? Shamefully, I never really understood much about the latter until I read Joseph Boydens Net Worth (February). It was eye-opening to learn about the rich tribal history of lacrosse. By chance I looked up at the aircrafts flight-path map in time to see we had just flown over La Crosse, Wisconsin, and I wondered if the name had anything to do with the sport. Even though the ground below was blanketed by snow, I imagined lacrosse being played there hundreds of years ago by the native peoples, just south of the current Canadian border.

Jeffrey Philip Shoer Santa Monica, California

Editors note: The city of La Crosse, Wisconsin, was indeed named after the aboriginal game we now know as lacrosse. The French who arrived there chose that name after they remarked that the curved, netted stick used by the players resembled a bishops crozier la crosse in French. NDLR : La ville de La Crosse, au Wisconsin, a t baptise en lhonneur du sport collectif po-nyme pratiqu par les autochtones. Cest aprs avoir remarqu que le bton recourb et muni dun filet quutilisaient les joueurs ressemblait une crosse dvque que les colons franais arrivs sur place ont choisi ce nom.


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Erratum: Eric Raymond, TRESemm Hair Care/judyinc.com, should have been credited for Michle Losiers hair and makeup (The New Classics, May). Eric Raymond, de TRESemm Hair Care/judyinc.com, aurait d tre crdit pour la mise en beaut de Michle Losier ( Haut de gamme , mai).

Mettre sous presse me comble toujours autant (avec un superbe article sur larchitecture paysagre Rio, ce numro ne fait pas exception), mais je vou-drais vous parler ici de lautre vie de notre magazine, enroute.aircanada.com. La version papier et le site web sont indissociables et participent dune mme intention : vous faire partager des expriences de voyage o sexprime le potentiel de la plante. Mordue de magazines, je suis aussi une fervente lectrice de blogues, et enRoute satisfait dornavant ces deux penchants.

En ligne, vous trouverez non seulement notre numro courant (au cas o vous ne voyagiez pas durant le mois), mais aussi un blogue sur les htels, restos et boutiques qui ouvrent au pays et ailleurs, un choix toujours plus vaste de guides de voyage et de divertissants topos, dont un sur les cantines mobiles que jai mis en signet pour ma prochaine visite L.A. Jadore le moteur de recherche des films bord, grce auquel on peut consulter en un clin dil la program-mation propose lors dun prochain vol. De plus, nous avons lanc en juin le gratuiciel enRoute Dining Guide pour iPhone et BlackBerry, qui vous permet de par-courir la liste des restos prcdemment prims et de visualiser le trajet jusqu votre prochain rgal.

Notre objectif ? Que votre accs enRoute soit plus complet, plus souvent. Car, si le magazine que vous trouvez dans la pochette de votre sige ne change quune fois par mois, vous pouvez maintenant nous prendre avec vous partout o vous allez.

P.-S. : Vous pouvez aussi nous suivre sur Twitter (@enRouteOnline), alors que mes propres perles sur le voyage se retrouvent @enroute_ilana.

Vos commentaires : [email protected]

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEFLE BILLET DE LA RDACTRICE EN CHEFILANA WEITZMAN

Our Worldwide Web Ralit virtuelle

While Im always excited about an issue going to press and this one, featuring a gorgeous story on Rios landscape architecture, is no exception I want to use this space this month to look at our other incarnation, enroute.aircanada.com. The print version and the website share the same pedi-gree and the same intention, which is to bring you travel experiences that explore the potential the world has to offer. Im a magazine fiend, but Im also a devoted blog reader, and now enRoute satisfies both obsessions.

Online, youll find not only the latest edition of enRoute (in case youre not travelling that month) but also a blog featuring hotel, restaurant and bou-tique openings across the country and beyond; an ever-expanding library of city guides; and some very fun quick-hit travel pieces, including one Ive bookmarked on truck-food dining for the next time Im in L.A. One of my favourite things is the inflight movies tool, which lets you see at a glance, by route, what will be playing on your next flight. And last month, we launched our free enRoute Dining Guide app for iPhone and BlackBerry, allowing you to browse winning restaurants from previous years and get directions to your next memorable meal.

The whole idea? We want to give you more enRoute more of the time. Even if were only able to reload a new issue in that seat pocket in front of you once a month, you can now take us with you wher-ever you go.

P.S. You can also follow the magazine on Twitter @enRouteOnline. I post my favourite travel finds @enroute_ilana. Write to us: [email protected]

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19enRoute7.2010

Letter from Calin Rovinescu Le billet de Calin Rovinescu

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What customers may not realize when they choose Air Canada is that, in addition to our services, they are also implicitly booking those of many of the worlds most highly regarded companies. In 2009, we counted 4,000 suppliers who provided us and our cus-tomers with goods, services or products in excess of $5.5-billion.

At Air Canada, we believe in the exponential power of partner-ship and are investing many resources in the best ones as I firmly believe that they will help us enormously on our path to becoming a global champion. We fully expect suppliers who become our part-ners to strive with us to make each flight flawless.

Some of these partners come to mind immediately, including the travel trade; our regional partner, Jazz; our loyalty marketing part-ner, Aeroplan; our 26 partner airlines in Star Alliance; the airports here in Canada where we fly; and aircraft manufacturers like Boeing and Airbus.

Others are less visible to our customers but just as important, such as AVEOS, which maintains our fleets engines, components and airframes; our technology development and telecom partners; our on-board seat and system providers; our caterers; and our res-ervation system manager, IBM, whose applications are so complex that on a busy day they can handle well over 600 customer trans-actions a second.

Our relationship with these firms is much more than that of cus-tomer and supplier. We work closely with them and draw on their expertise in global best practices and innovation, often sharing in the development of new products to serve you better.

A good example is CAE Inc., a Canadian firm that is one of the worlds leaders in flight-simulation technology. Our pilots train on CAE equipment, which can replicate virtually any aircraft scenario and teach our pilots to respond to all eventualities. At our training centres in Toronto and Vancouver, we collaborate with CAE to train not only our own pilots but also those of 18 other airlines and com-panies. This keeps us on the leading edge of training and ensures our pilots remain the best in the business.

Although our logo is on the tail, every time an Air Canada flight takes off, it is supported by a host of partners focused on delivering the best possible customer experience. You judge someone by the company they keep; I'd say we keep very good company indeed. Write to me: [email protected]

Lorsquils font une rservation avec Air Canada, les clients ne savent peut-tre pas quils choisissent par le fait mme les services de nom-breuses socits parmi les plus estimes au monde. En 2009, 4 000 entreprises nous ont fourni pour plus de 5,5 milliards de dollars en biens, services et produits.

Air Canada, nous croyons la puissance exponentielle des partena-riats et investissons beaucoup dans les meilleures collaborations, car je crois fermement quelles sont essentielles pour nous permettre de deve-nir un champion mondial. Nous attendons de nos fournisseurs partenaires quils se mobilisent nos cts afin de rendre chaque vol parfait.

On songe immdiatement nos partenaires de lindustrie du voyage, Jazz, notre transporteur rgional, AroplanMD, qui gre notre program-me de fidlisation, aux 26 autres transporteurs Star AllianceMC, aux a-roports canadiens o nous exploitons nos vols ou aux avionneurs, com-me Boeing et Airbus.

Dautres collaborateurs, moins connus des clients, sont tout aussi importants. Cest notamment le cas dAveos, qui assure la maintenance des moteurs, des composants et des cellules de nos appareils, des en-treprises responsables des tlcommunications et du dveloppement technologique, des fabricants des systmes et des siges, des traiteurs et dIBM, le gestionnaire de notre systme de rservations dont les applications sont si complexes quelles peuvent facilement traiter plus de 600 transactions par seconde les journes achalandes.

Nos liens avec ces entreprises dpassent de loin la simple relation client-fournisseur. Nous travaillons en troite collaboration et tablons sur leur expertise en pratiques exemplaires mondiales et en innovation, allant jusqu concevoir de concert de nouveaux produits afin de mieux vous servir.

Cest le cas avec CAE, socit canadienne et chef de file mondial en technologie de simulation de vol. Nos pilotes sentranent avec de lqui-pement de CAE, qui permet de reproduire presque tous les scnarios de vol et dapprendre parer toute ventualit. nos centres de formation de Toronto et de Vancouver, nous collaborons avec CAE en vue de former non seulement nos propres pilotes, mais galement ceux de 18 autres transporteurs. Nous nous assurons ainsi que nos pilotes demeurent les meilleurs de lindustrie en leur offrant une formation de pointe.

Mme si notre logo se trouve sur la queue de lavion, chaque dcol-lage dun vol dAir Canada dpend dune foule de partenaires qui sef-forcent doffrir la meilleure exprience possible nos clients. On juge quelquun ses frquentations, et je dirais que les ntres sont en effet trs respectables. Vos commentaires : [email protected]

Air Canada is pleased to offer you service in English and French. (For more information, please turn to page 102.) Air Canada est heureuse de vous servir en franais et en anglais. (Pour plus de dtails, veuillez aller en page 102.)

Calin Rovinescu President and Chief Executive Officer Prsident et chef de la direction Air Canada

The Power of Partnerships La force des partenariats

Working with our partners, we harness global best practices to innovate and serve you better. En travaillant avec nos partenaires, nous adoptons les meilleures pratiques mondiales afin dinnover et de mieux vous servir.

enRoute7.2010 21

Coronado, California / CalifornieHotel del Coronado

Known as the Del, this 122-year-old hotel stays hip with its new Vibz lounge, where karaoke and Dance Dance Revolution sessions entertain those who arent getting henna tattoos by the pool. After hitting the waves as part of the summer surf camp, young visitors can unwind with a Teen Salon Sampler treatment at the Yamaguchi Salon.

122 ans, cet htel (sur-nomm le Del) reste branch grce son nouveau salon, le Vibz, o karaok et sances de Dance Dance Revolution occupent ceux qui ne sont pas la piscine en train de se faire tatouer au henn. Aprs stre jets leau au camp dt ax sur le surf, les jeunes peuvent souffler lors dun soin Teen Salon Sampler au Yamaguchi Salon.1500 orange ave., 800-468-3533, hoteldel.com

282624

Alexander McCall Smith on his top spots in Edinburgh. Les coins favoris dAlexander McCall Smith dimbourg.

Travel bags that expand your horizons (but pack up small). Des sacs qui dploient vos ailes sans prendre toute la place.

Brasserie menus hop to it with Asian-inspired fare. Des brasseries adoptent des petits menus venus dAsie.

PASS PORTWISH YOU WERE HERE CoMMe Si vouS y tiez

A I R M A I L P

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Teen programs get the grown-up treatment at these resorts. / les clubs pour ados font les choses en grand dans ces htels.

22 enRoute7.2010

WISH YOU WERE HERE comme si vous y tiez

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Manalapan, Florida / FlorideThe RiTz-CaRlTon, Palm BeaCh

At Coast, this beach resorts teen lounge, youngguests can record their own mix at the DJ station and upload it to their iPods before playing a round of Guitar Hero. And when its time to choose be-tween a spa treatment at Beauty@Coast or at-tending one of the club parties, teens can consult 13-year-old Amanda Jet, the hotels Petite Blogger.

Au Coast, le salon pour ados de cette station bal-naire, les jeunes peuvent crer leur propre mix la console de DJ et le tlcharger sur leur iPod avant daller jouer Guitar Hero. Et sil est trop difficile de choisir entre un soin au spa Beauty@Coast et lune des ftes du club, ils peuvent consulter Amanda Jet, la jeune blogueuse en rsidence, ge de 13 ans.100 S. ocean Blvd., 561-533-6000, ritzcarlton.com

Montego Bay, Jamaica / Jamaque halF moon

This Caribbean resorts new Hype Zone for vis-itors aged 13 to 20 offers foosball and air hockey in the games room, and activities like horse rid-ing on the beach. Rather than merely tagging along, younger siblings are treated as Very Important Little Persons, a service that includes freshly baked cookies and milk at bedtime.

Le nouveau Hype Zone de ce complexe antillais est un club pour les 13 20 ans qui propose une salle de jeu avec babyfoot et hockey pneumatique, et des acti-vits telles que lquitation sur la plage. Quant aux plus jeunes, ils ont droit au traitement Very Important Little Persons, ou petite personne de marque , qui comprend biscuits et verre de lait au dodo.P.o. Rose hall, 876-953-2211, halfmoon.com

Paphos, Cyprus / ChypreaPhRodiTe hillS

With hip hop classes and clothing-design lessons,the Grotto Fun Club at this Mediterranean resort makes learning, well, fun. As part of the X-teen program, participants practise their topspin during a game of table tennis or stretch their mental muscles at one of the daily summer chess tournaments. Cours de hip-hop et de stylisme de mode : au Grotto Fun Club de ce complexe mditer-ranen, on apprend en tripant. Le programme X-teen permet entre autres aux jeunes damliorer leurs coups brosss en jouant une partie de tennis de table, ou de travailler leurs mninges durant lun des tournois dchecs quotidiens de lt.3 aphrodite ave., 357-26-828945, aphroditehills.com

Aphrodite Hills

The Ritz-Carlton, Palm Beach

1 Whether mastering rock climbing routes like Burgers & Fries or crossing suspension bridges along the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail, teens taking part in the Longacre Expeditions Vancouver camp develop a sense of teamwork and an adventurous streak. Quils franchissent des couloirs de varappe comme le Burgers & Fries ou des ponts suspendus le long du sentier Juan de Fuca marine trail, les ados inscrits au camp vancouvrois de Longacre expeditions dveloppent leur esprit dquipe et leur ct aventurier.732-722-7566, longacreexpeditions.com

2 The camps at the School of Cinema and Performing Arts in New York, Los Angeles and Burlington, Vermont, have budding directors write, direct and edit their own films, and look to the affiliate acting camp for emerging talent.

Aux camps de la school of cinema and Performing Arts New york, Los Angeles et Burlington (vermont), les cinastes en herbe scnarisent, ralisent et montent leurs propres films, et recrutent leurs acteurs au camp dinterprtation affili.214-941-4057, socapa.org

3 Ocean explorers aged 15 to 19 discov-er the life aquatic during ActionQuests Tropical Marine Biology camp. While touring the British Virgin Islands aboard a catamaran, they pick up sailing skills, and can even earn high school credit.

Les loups de mer de 15 19 ans dcouvrent la vie aquatique au camp tropical marine Biology dActionQuest. visitant les les vierges britanniques en catamaran, ils sinitient la voile autonome et peuvent mme se faire crditer le stage dans leur bulletin.800-317-6789, actionquest.com/ marine-biology-camps.html

Teen SpiriTThese summer camps are too cool for school.

PARADIS ADoS Ces camps dt sont plus que des jeux denfants.

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24 enRoute7.2010

FOOD AND DRINK GASTRONOMIE

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Fortune says: Beer snacks get as hoppy as clams. / Avec une bire lgre, la cuisine dAsie nest palourde.

Orient ExpressGastropub grub taps into Asian flavours.

Un zeste dAsieLa bouffe de pub soriente vers les saveurs de lEst.

WhAt / Cest quOI

this summer, a new generation of brasseries is giving standard pub fare an eastern twist. Be-tween sips of Yanjing beer, drinkers at Bao Bei in Vancouver can nibble on bruised szechuan cu-cumbers and toasted squid with soy-garlic aioli, or clams simmered in shaoxing wine, ginger, scallions and cilantro. the resto-bar seamstress in Melbournes Chinatown puts hoppy tsingtao to work in its beer-battered chicken with tangy plum sauce. And hidden away in a Manhattan courtyard, Bia Garden (after the Vietnamese word for beer) reinvents the biergarten with lemongrass sausages and self-serve coolers full of Asian brews. Cet t, une nouvelle gnration de brasseries branchent leur cuisine sur lAsie. En sirotant leur Yanjing, les clients du Bao Bei, Vancouver, peuvent grignoter du concombre meurtri la sichuanaise et du calmar grill avec aoli au soya, ou des palourdes mijotes au vin de Shaoxing, avec gingembre, chalotes et coriandre. Le Seamstress, dans le quartier chinois de Melbourne, joue du houblon avec ses beignets de poulet la Tsingtao en sauce acidule aux prunes. Et, dans une cour de Manhattan, le Bia Garden ( bire , en vietnamien) rinvente le Biergarten avec ses saucisses la citronnelle et ses bires asiatiques en glacires libreservice.

Where / O GOteR

Bao Bei 163 Keefer St., Vancouver, 604-688-0876, bao-bei.caBia Garden 154 Orchard St., New York, 212-780-0010, biagarden.comSeamstress 113 Lonsdale St., Melbourne, 61-3-9663-6363, seamstress.com.au

DeSigNAteD DriNK housed in a former bank in a building dating back to the 18th century is the queen of Belgian brasseries: the Belga Queen. the restaurant garners lineups every night for its oyster bar, scallops and shrimp croquettes, so while youre waiting for that elusive table, sip on the Belga Queen Cocktail: a flute of champagne with crushed raspberries, rose syrup and Mandarine Napolon, topped with fresh red currants. the results are bankable. BOIssON MAIsON Dans les locaux dune ancienne banque, dans un immeuble du xviiie sicle, se trouve la reine des brasseries belges : le Belga queen. tous les soirs on y fait la file pour profiter de sa table hutres, pour savourer ses ptoncles et pour goter ses croquettes de crevettes. en attendant une ventuelle table, sirotez une flte de cocktail Belga queen : champagne, framboises presses, sirop de rose et Mandarine Napolon, le tout couronn de groseilles. Cest une valeur sre en liquide.Belga Queen 32, rue du Foss aux Loups, Brussels / Bruxelles 32-2-217-21-87, belgaqueen.be

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. 2010

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26 enRoute7.2010

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3 Scotland StreetThis nearby street is the set-ting of six of my novels. There is an amazing old rail-way tunnel running up the hill underground. You will find its entrance, now barred off but through which you can peek inside, at the north end of the street: a gift for novelists. Tout prs, cette rue sert de dcor pour six de mes romans. En-dessous, il y a un ancien tunnel ferroviaire en pente. Lentre se trouve lextrmit nord de la rue ; elle est barre, mais on peut y jeter un il lintrieur. De quoi nourrir limaginaire dun romancier.At / Prs de Waverly Station

4 the StevenSon houSe Robert Louis Stevenson, theauthor of Treasure Island, lived here in the mid-nine-teenth century. I know the current owners and have been for dinner. I always take pleasure in walking along the very pavement that was walked upon by an author as great as Stevenson. Robert Louis Stevenson, lauteur de Lle au trsor, a vcu ici au milieu du xixe sicle. Je connais les propritaires actuels, qui mont dj reu souper. Je prends toujours plaisir fouler les pavs mmes qui ont rsonn sous les pas dun aussi grand crivain que Stevenson.17 Heriot Row, 44-131-556-1896, stevenson-house.co.uk

1 GlaSS and thompSon Authors need real settingsfor their characters; this caf is where The Sunday Philosophy Club heroine Isabel Dalhousie has coffee. In real life, I often have lunch here with the illustra-tor of the 44 Scotland Street books, Iain McIntosh, who lives around the corner.

Les crivains ont besoin de dcors rels pour leurs per-sonnages ; ce caf est celui que frquente lhrone du Club des philosophes amateurs, Isabel Dalhousie. Dans la vraie vie, je dne souvent ici avec Iain McIntosh, lillustra-teur du cycle 44 Scotland Street, qui habite deux pas.2 Dundas St., 44-131-557-0909

2 the thrie eStaitSThis antique shop is a greatplace to browse and find a present for those who have everything. The owner, not surprisingly, seems to love every piece he displays. My last purchase was three Italian glass candlesticks as a gift for my wife. Ce ma-gasin dantiquits est un en-droit gnial o fureter en qute dun cadeau pour ceux qui ont dj tout. Bien enten-du, le proprio semble adorer tous les objets quil a ven-dre. Mon dernier achat : trois chandeliers en verre dItalie que jai offerts ma femme.49 Dundas St., 44-131-556-7084, thethrieestaits.co.uk

5 the ScottiSh GalleryThis is one of the oldest commercial galleries in Scotland, now run by Guy Peploe, the grandson of one of the greatest of Scotlands Colourist painters, Samuel John Peploe. Many well-known Scottish painters, like James Morrison and Elizabeth Blackadder, have made their name here.

Il sagit dune des plus an-ciennes galeries vocation commerciale dcosse, que dirige aujourdhui Guy Peploe, petit-fils dun des plus grands coloristes cossais, Samuel John Peploe. Plusieurs pein-tres cossais clbres, dont James Morrison et Elizabeth Blackadder, se sont fait un nom ici.16 Dundas St., 44-131-558-1200, scottish-gallery.co.uk

MY FAVOURITE STREET DANS MA RUE

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alexander mccall Smiths dundas StreetThe bestselling author shares his favourite Edinburgh spots.

Dundas Street, selon Alexander McCall SmithLauteur succs nous prsente ses lieux favoris dimbourg.

Zimbabwe-born author alexander mccall Smith was a medical law professor when he penned the first instalment of his No. 1 Ladies Detective Agency series. Today, his books have sold more than 20 million copies worldwide. Among McCall Smiths favourite settings for his detective fiction is Edinburghs Georgian New Town, a beguilingly beautiful area that forms the lived-and-worked-in heart of the city. His latest oeuvre, Corduroy Mansions, will be released by Random House this month. Natif du Zimbabwe, lcrivain alexander mccall Smith enseignait le droit mdical au moment o il a rdig le premier tome du cycle Les enqutes de Mma Ramotswe. Depuis, ses livres se sont couls plus de 20 millions dexemplaires dans le monde. Parmi les lieux o lauteur pr-fre camper ses enqutes figure la ville neuve gorgienne ddimbourg, un quartier au charme captivant qui forme le cur vivant et palpitant de la cit . Sa dernire uvre, Corduroy Mansions, est publie ce mois-ci par Random House.

1

edinburGh DiMbouRg

4

5

Passat CC

2010 Volkswagen Canada. *Base MSRP of a new 2010 Passat CC 2.0 TSI Sportline base model with 6-speed manual transmission is $33,075; excludes up to $1,365 freight and PDI, license, insurance, registration, any dealer or other charges, options, and other applicable taxes. MSRP of model as shown is $38,875. Dealer may sell for less. Dealer order/trade may be necessary. See vw.ca or your Volkswagen dealer for details. "FSI" is a registered trademark of Audi AG. Volkswagen, the Volkswagen logo, "TSI" and "4MOTION" are registered trademarks of Volkswagen AG. Passat CC and Das Auto & Design are trademarks of Volkswagen AG.

vw.ca

It s a Volkswagen. No, seriously.

Thats what we tell people when they point to the 2010 Passat CC and ask,

what is it? or is that a (insert name of expensive luxury car here)? And

we get those questions all the time. Although its not that surprising, it has

sleek lines on the outside, premium materials on the inside, and its loaded

with the latest technology. It also comes with a fuel-efficient 2.0L TSI 200 hp

turbocharged engine, or an available 3.6L FSI 280 hp V6 with 4MOTION

all-wheel drive system.

The affordable 4-door coupe, starting from only $33,075*. No, seriously.

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28 enRoute7.2010

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS LART DU VOYAGE

In the Fold These bags prove that big things come in small packages.

Cest dans la pocheCes sacs se plient tous les besoins, petits et grands.

For Your ShavIng KItPouR VoTRE TRouSSE dE RASAgE

Be ready to travel at a moments notice: Snap this tiny leather ball open and it turns into a 30-centimetre-long waterproof toiletries case. Soyez prt partir sans pravis. Dboutonnez cette minuscule boule de cuir et transformez-la en trousse de toilette impermable de 30 cm de long.Steve Mono Ted 5 toilet case, US$110 / Trousse de toilette Ted 5, 110 $uS, stevemono.com

For Your SouvenIrS PouR VoS SouVENIRS

Shrinking from 48 to seven centimetres in height, this rugged linen bag is barely noticeable when folded. unfurl it, and its big enough to fit six new pairs of Italian hand-stitched shoes or four extra-large conch shells. Compressible au point de passer de 48 7 cm de hauteur, ce sac de toile robuste passe inaperu lorsquil est pli. Dploy, il peut accommoder six nouvelles paires de chaussures italiennes cousues main ou quatre conques gantes.Manufactum Folding Travel Bag, 149 /Sac de voyage pliable, 149 , manufactum.com

For Your WeeKendPouR VoS wEEk-ENdS

This carry-all starts out the size of a paperback and expands into not one, but two different sizes (depending on how much wine and cheese youre bringing to the party). Ce sac de la taille dun livre de poche sagrandit non pas dune mais de deux tailles (selon la quantit de vin et de fromage que vous dsirez apporter la fte).Longchamp Le Pliage tote bag, US$235 / Fourre-tout Le Pliage, 235 $uS, longchamp.com

For Your LaptopPouR VoTRE PoRTABLE

wear this Italian napa leather bag messenger-style to carry your 13-inch MacBook; unfold it vertically to fit your larger laptop and legal-size files. Trimbalez votre MacBook 13 po dans cette sacoche italienne de cuir nappa ; pour y caser un plus gros portable et des dossiers grand format, dpliez-la sur la hauteur.2unFoLd Laptop Bag, 379 / Sacoche pour portable, 379 , shop.hardgraft.com

You dont have to be aregular to feel like one.Drop by to feel like youre right at home. With over 85 locationsacross Canada and in Phoenix, Dallas, Fort Worth, Denver, Seattleand Naples (FL), theres always a great steak nearby. www.kegsteakhouse.com

KG9366_Airline_EnRoute Ad:Layout 1 7/27/09 12:40 PM Page 1

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CLIENT Grand & ToyFILE NAME GRTY1063_enroute.indd

CREATED 28/04/10

MAC ARTIST Rubene CREATIVE Mike/Matt ACCOUNT Whitney PROJECT MANAGER Gareth

TRIM 9 x 10.875 SAFETY 8.5 x 10.375 BLEED 9.25 x 11.125 PUBLICATION EnRoute Mag

COLOUR CYAN MAGENTA YELLOW BLACK INSERTION 01/06/10

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GRTY1063_enroute.indd 1 29/04/10 2:11 PM

enRoute7.2010 31

Out of OfficeNotes for the modern business traveller, from Aldo Group CEO Aldo Bensadoun.

En dplacementGuide du voyageur daffaires moderne, par Aldo Bensadoun, PDG du Groupe Aldo.

Since founding the shoe and accessories giant Aldo Group in 1972, Aldo Bensadoun has helped expand the brand into more than 55 countries. Next month, his company launches the concept store Locale. Depuis quil a fond en 1972 le Groupe Aldo, gant de la chaussure et des accessoires, Aldo Bensadoun a tendu la marque dans plus de 55 pays. Le mois prochain, sa socit lance la boutique-concept Locale.

Window or aisle?Window I love the view! Alle ou hublot ? Hublot : jadore la vue.

Best place to power lunch Balthazar in New York for steak and fries and Quattro Leoni in Florence for the re-freshing tomato, basil and mozzarella salad. Meilleure table o dner pour affaires Le Balthazar de New York pour un steak frites et le Quattro Leoni de Florence pour des tomates la mozzarella bien fraches.

My businessmantra Respect,

love and integrity. Ma devise en

affaires Respect, amour et intgrit.

Always listento your heart.

coutez toujours ce que

votre cur vous dit.

My eureka moment Creating an Italian clog based on a classic Dutch design that became a fashion state-ment throughout Canada in 1972. Taking an item and turning it into a trend gave me the courage to pursue my ambitions. Mon grand flash Minspirer dun modle hollandais classique pour concevoir un sabot ita-lien qui a lanc une mode au Canada en 1972. Crer une tendance partir dun seul article ma donn le courage daller au bout de mes ambitions.

BUSINESS AFFAIRES

For more business essentials, visit us online at enroute.aircanada.

com/en/business. Pour dautres incontournables des affaires, visitez enroute.aircanada.com/fr/affaires.

In business, nows a good time to smell the roses.

En affaires, cest le temps de prendre un peu

de recul.

What I had to learn on the fly To be exclusive with every style of shoe offered in our stores. In other words, making sure that the product could not be found any-where else. Ce que jai d apprendre sur le tas Viser lexclusivit pour chaque style de chaussure vendue dans nos ma-gasins. En dautres mots, massurer que notre produit ne se trouve pas ailleurs.

The biggest risk I ever took was opening my first free-standing stores in Montreal, Ottawa and Winnipeg in 1979. Le plus grand risque de ma vie a t douvrir mes premiers magasins autonomes Montral, Ottawa et Winnipeg, en 1979.

In my carry-on youll find seed cataloguesfor flowers and trees. Dans mon bagage main, il y a des catalogues de semences darbres et de fleurs.

My go-to gadget My crackberry I keep up to date on everything. Mon gadget dpanneur Mon Crackberry , qui me tient inform de tout.

32 enRoute7.2010

Editors Cho

ice

Le choix de

la rdaction

HOTELS HTELS

The GetawayOur favourite hotel stays.

EscapadesNos meilleurs sjours lhtel.

Can BonasTre Wine resorT

Masquefa, spain / EspagneHoused in a 16th-century countrymanor a half-hour outside of Barcelona, this hotel produces eight varieties of its own vintage. What we loved Soaking in a cabernet sauvignon-infused bath at the Acbua Spa while taking in views of the Montserrat mountains. If you only have one night Learn to pick and tread the grapes as part of the resorts Grape Harvest package. (Included in the itinerary: a siesta under the pine trees.) Bonus Its the perfect base for exploring the surrounding wine regions of Anoia and Alt Peneds home to cava, Spains sparkling wine. Dont miss Eudald Massana Noya, an organic, bio-dynamic bodega. Log dans un manoir du xvie sicle situ 30 min de Barcelone, cet htel labore huit vins partir des cpages de son vignoble. on a aimPrendre un bain parfum au cabernet sauvignon tout en admirant la vue du Montserrat depuis lAcbua Spa. si vous ntes l quune nuit Apprenez cueillir et fouler le raisin dans le cadre du forfait vendanges du complexe (sieste sous les pins comprise). Boni Lendroit est parfait pour rayonner jusque dans les rgions viticoles voisines dAnoia et dAlt Peneds, patrie du cava, le mousseux dEspagne. Assurez-vous dy visiter la bodega Eudald Massana Noya, aux produits bios et biodynamiques.34-93-772-87-67, canbonastre.com

enRoute7.2010 33

W Fort LauderdaLe

Fort LauderdalePast a rowdier stretch of the beach boulevard, thebreezy W looks like a landlocked cruise ship albeit a very glam one. What we loved Walking up the Perspex-topped staircase and emerging through the pool for an aquarium-style view of the swimmers. If you only have one night Dine at Steak 954, where the black-lit tank of glowing jellyfish is as impressive as the giant sour-cream-stuffed hash brown (kind of like a rsti on steroids). Bonus The hotels complimentary Acura car serv-ice can zip you to nearby hot spots, like Todd Englishs Da Campo Osteria restaurant. Au-del dun bruyant tronon de boulevard qui longe la plage se dresse le W, cool et dans le vent, tel un luxueux navire de croisire quai. on a aim Monter lescalier recouvert de Perspex au cur de la piscine, do lon voit les nageurs comme dans un aquarium. Si vous ntes l quune nuit Soupez au Steak 954, o les mduses fluo dans la lumire noire du bassin sont aussi saisissantes que la mgapomme de terre risso-le et farcie de crme sure (sorte de rsti dop aux strodes). en prime LAcura de courtoisie de lhtel vous dposera dans lun des lieux branchs du coin, tel le resto Da Campo Osteria, de Todd English.954-414-8200, starwoodhotels.com/whotelsPh

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New York This new hotel takes local pride to the extreme,from the Central Park-themed living wall in the lobby to the Ecru New York-stocked bathrooms. What we loved A chocolate chip brownie as our welcome gift (every guest gets one!) from local confectioner Cocoa Jones. If you only have one night See the city without going anywhere: Every floor represents a different Manhattan neigh-bourhood, so as the elevator rises, youre literally going uptown. Nice. Bonus The bright lights of Broadway and Times Square are a few blocks away close but not too close. Ce nouvel htel pousse la fiert locale son comble, depuis le mur vgtalis reprsentant Central Park dans le hall jusquaux produits ECRU New York dans les salles de bains. on a aim Le cadeau de bienvenue (pour tous) : un brownie aux brisures de chocolat de la ptisserie locale Cocoa Jones. Si vous ntes l quune nuit Visitez la ville sans sortir : chaque tage reprsente un quartier diffrent de Manhattan, et vous monterez du sud au nord en ascenseur. Pratique. en prime Les lumires clatantes de Broadway et de Times Square sont quelques coins de rue, ni trop prs, ni trop loin.212-706-6100, distrikthotel.com

W Fort Lauderdale

tHe oberoi udaiviLaS

udaipur, india / IndeModelled after a Rajasthan palace, this resort immerses guests in a regal setting all the way down to its shimmering moat (which doubles as a room-side plunge pool). What we loved Having grilled paratha bread and chai for breakfast on our private bougainvillea-covered terrace. If you only have one night Indulge at the spa with a Sarvangadhara massage, an ancient Ayurvedic ritual that uses soothing herbal milk. Bonus A boat ride across Lake Pichola brings you to the historic City Palace, where Maharana (Hindu roy-alty) still live. Conu pour voquer un palais rajas-thani, ce complexe plonge ses clients dans un dcor royal qui va jusqu comprendre une douve (servant de piscine ct chambres) aux eaux miroitantes. on a aim Le djeuner au paratha grill et au chai sur notre terrasse prive couverte de bougainvilles. Si vous ntes l quune nuit Au spa, offrez-vous un massage Sarvangadhara, ancien rituel ayurvdique base de lait vgtal apaisant. en prime Un bateau sur le lac Pichola vous amne au vnrable City Palace, o vit encore le maharana (de sang royal hindou).866-377-5241, oberoihotels.comThe Oberoi Udaivilas

SHOW AND TELL DMYSTIFICATION

For ShoreBeach gear that lets you hit the sand as soon as you land.

Plage horaireArticles de voyage prts atterrir sur le sable en mme temps que vous.

Make Sound WaveS / fENDEz LES ONDES

Pop your iPod inside this water-resistant speaker and get the beach party started. When its time to shower off, you can bring your surfside soundtrack into the stalls.

Insrez votre iPod dans ce haut-parleur impermable, et que la fte de plage commence ! Aprs coup, amenez-le avec vous dans la cabine de douche et surfez sur vos courants musicaux.Molla Space drop Speaker, uS$58 / 58 $US, mollaspace.com

Cover Ground / COUvrEz DU TErrAiN

When not folded into the small, built-in pouch, this beach blanket made of parachute nylon comes to your rescue: it unfurls to seat four, repels sand, dries fast and, yes, keeps you cool. Sortie de sa minipochette int-gre, cette couverture de plage en nylon de parachute tombe pile. Dploye, elle est assez grande pour quatre, ne retient pas le sable, sche vite et vous garde au frais.Grand Trunk Parasheet, uS$40 / 40 $US, thetravelhammock.com

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enRoute7.2010 35

Get Framed / Ouvrez lil

Break out these lightweight acetate shades during the day and, come cocktail hour, fold them down to half their size for easy storage. En plein jour, sortez ces lgres lunettes de soleil monture en actate, puis repliez-les en deux et levez dautres verres lheure du cocktail.Tim Hamilton for Linda Farrow foldable sunglasses, US$339.50 / lunettes de soleil pliables, 339,50 $uS, lindafarrowvintage.com

LiGhten YoUr Load / vOyagez lger

Made from recycled advertising billboards, this paper-thin tote holds up to 15 kilos (for those extra summer hardcovers) but packs flat. Plus, it sifts the sand out for you. Fait partir de panneaux publicitaires recycls, ce fourre-tout ultramince peut soulever jusqu 15 kg (et vos grosses lectures dt), mais se range plat. Et il laisse le sable derrire.Artecnica Stretch Bag, US$14.99 / 14,99 $uS,artecnicainc.com

Pair down / aPPareillez

Put your best foot forward with these sneakers, which convert into sandals when you unzip the top. With 20 interchangeable designs, you can use different soles with uppers, from leather loafers to metallic hightops.

Transformez ces souliers en sandales dun simple coup de fermeture clair, ou agencez semelles et empeignes des 20 modles interchangeables, entre flneurs de cuir et chaussures montantes fini mtallique.Nat-2 Lind Lo / across, 70 / 70 , nat-2.euPh

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36 enRoute7.2010

Your movies can be so funny and so sad, some-times at the same time. Is tragicomedy something youre drawn to?The more you take yourself seriously as a human being, the more ridiculous you are, and thats what informs characters for me. I try not to be outside of something and comment on it, but rather to be that person. We all have a kind of natural sense of humour, in movies and in life.

Your next film, Killers, is a pretty broad Hollywood studio comedy. Was it a big change?It was completely different! I knew going in that this was a big production with Katherine Heigl and Ashton Kutcher. Because I didnt get a script for the part, I cant say it was the role that attracted me. But it seemed kind of fun to jump on a big thing, a huge machine that has very little to do with me. And honestly? The prospect of shooting in Nice for two weeks was very compelling. They know how

Vos films peuvent tre la fois trs tristes et trs drles. tes-vous porte sur la tragicomdie ?Plus on se prend au srieux, plus on est ridicule, et cest ainsi que je dfinis mes personnages. Au lieu de commenter les situations de lextrieur, jessaie de les incarner compltement. Nous avons tous un sens du comique, dans la vie comme au cinma.

Votre prochain film, Tuer pour aimer, est une comdie hollywoodienne plutt primaire. tait-ce un grand changement ?Ctait compltement diffrent ! Je savais demble que ce serait une grosse production avec Ashton Kutcher et Katherine Heigl. Comme je navais pas lu le scnario, je ne peux pas dire que ce soit le rle qui mait attire, mais il ma sembl rigolo dembarquer dans un gros truc qui me ressemble assez peu. Et, franchement, la perspective de tourner Nice pendant deux semaines tait irrsistible. L-bas, on sait vivre. Le nec plus ultra

en tout, mais sans en abuser, au contraire des tats-Unis. Je regrette davoir dire a, mais, h, je suis torontoise.

Vous habitez Los Angeles en permanence. Vous arrive-t-il de revenir au Canada ?Chaque t, on retourne notre chalet, non loin de Toronto. Chaque fois que jobtiens un beau petit rle au printemps, je me dis : On va pouvoir faire le plein dessence du bateau. Muskoka, tout cote trop cher.

Vos choix de carrire sont-ils souvent influencs par les lieux de tournage ?Jai des enfants, donc je ne peux pas mabsenter trop longtemps. Jai dj t oblige de refuser des rles pour cette raison, mais deux semaines dans le Midi [pour tourner Tuer pour aimer], a me convenait parfaitement. Je jouais la femme de Tom Selleck, qui est vraiment cool. Cest un parfait gentilhomme, et il a la mme allure que dans Magnum.

ONE ON ONE TTE--TTE

Catherine OHaraThe Canadian actress discusses Tom Sellecks cool factor and the joys of filming in France.

Catherine OHaraLactrice canadienne parle des avantages de tourner en France et explique pourquoi Tom Selleck est encore cool.INTERVIEW BY / PROPOS RECUEILLIS PAR mElORa kOEpkE IllUSTRaTION BY / DE SIlJa GTZ

Profession Comedian

Location los angeles

Claim to fame Cast member of Second

City Television; leading lady in Christopher

Guest films like Best in Show

Latest project Killers, a shoot em up

romantic comedy Last vacation

mammoth, California Next vacation

loterie Farm on the Caribbean island

of St. martinTravel essential

Currency everything else is too much

Favourite souvenir antique Christmas

ornaments from london

professionComiqueDomicile

Los AngelesSigne distinctif

Membre de la distribution de Second City Television ;

vedette de films de Christopher Guest, dont

Le clou du spectacleDernier projet

Tuer pour aimer, comdie daction romantiqueDernires vacances

Mammoth, en Californieprochaines vacances

Loterie Farm, dans lle antillaise de Saint-Martin

Essentiel en voyage De largent ; le reste

est superflu Souvenir prfr

Des dcorations de Nol antiques dniches

Londres

to live. The best of every-thing, but in moderation unlike in the United States. I hate to say that, but hey, Im from Toronto.

You live full-time in L.A. now. Do you ever get back to Canada?We go to our cottage outside Toronto every summer. Each time I have a sweet job in the springtime I say, Hey, boat gas money! Everything in Muskoka costs more than it should.

Are many of your career decisions based on shooting locations?I have kids, so I cant go away for very long. Ive had to turn down jobs in exotic locations because of that, but two weeks in the south of France [for the Killers shoot] was perfect. I get to play Tom Sellecks wife, and hes just cool. Hes a total gentleman and looks exactly like he did in Magnum, P.I.

R6

Ad Number: MBZ CRC P01900ER4Publication(s): enRoute

This ad prepared by: SGL Communications for BBDO Toronto 2 Bloor St. West, Toronto, Ontario phone 416.413.7495 fax 416.944.7883 File Location: SGL_MercedesBenzCanada:Volumes:SGL_MercedesBenzCanada:Magazine Ads:O02761_C-Class:MBZ_CRC_P01900ER4.indd

JOB SPECIFICS

Client: Mercedes-BenzCreative Name: Impeccably camouflagedAgency Docket #: MBZ CRC O02761Main Docket #: SMZ COR O02761Art Director: NoneCopy Writer: NonePrint Production: Frank NinnoRetoucher: Jano KirijianLive: 8.5 x 10.375Trim: 9 x 10.875Bleed: 9.25 x 11.125Artwork Scale: 1:1Print Scale: 100%

FILE SPECIFICATIONS:

File Name: MBZ_CRC_P01900ER4.inddCreation Date: 4-21-2009 2:35 PMLast Modified: 5-27-2010 1:09 PMWorkstation: T06-0203InDesign Version: CS3 App. Version: 5.0.3Round #: 2 Page Count: 1GRAPHIC PRODUCTION:

Operator: Evan DermitCorrection: None

SIGNOFFS:

Creative:

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Premedia:

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Account:

Client:

PREMEDIA OPERATOR:

Operator: RJ

INKS:

Cyan

MAGENTA

YELLOW

BLACK

FONTS & PLACED IMAGES

Family Style

Corporate A Condensed RegularCorporate S DemiCorporate A Regular, Demi

File Name Colour Space Eff. Res (PPI)

MB_08C_204_NewBkgd.eps CMYK 411 ppi MB 1_WHITE_STAR.eps MB 2_WHITE_WORDMARK.eps

This proof was produced by the following department:

PREPRESS

Its a sports car. Impeccably camouflaged as a luxury sedan.

2010 Mercedes-Benz Canada Inc. *Price does not include Freight, PDI, dealer Administrative fees, GST or PST. **Standard on the C 350, only available as part of an option package on the C 300. Not available on the C 250, C 63 AMG or 4MATIC models. C 300 4MATIC shown with optional sport package.

The 2010 C-Class. Starting from $35,800.*

The Mercedes-Benz C-Class is most de nitely a luxury car. Survey the cockpit. Touches like burl walnut and tted leathers con rm that. Another touch con rms its a sports car: press start. AGILITY CONTROL stiffens damping in corners; an available Dynamic Handling Package** and our award-winning 4th generation 4MATIC permanent all-wheel-drive system, available even on the C 250, prove its road mettle. Experience this magni cent duality at your dealer or visit mercedes-benz.ca/c. The C-Class. Agility Rede ned.

S:8.5S:10.375

T:9T:10.875

B:9.25B

:11.125

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enRoute7.2010 39

Grognant et gmissant, je me tortille en tous sens, les bras tendus jusqu puisement, lorsque mon guide scrie : Vite ! Une pridurale ! Nous pouffons et jen perds ma concentration, ainsi que ma prise sur la poigne du moulinet. Sous le regard de phoques demi sortis de leau qui se cachent entre les billots, ma ligne se dvide la vitesse de lclair, annulant 20 minutes de labeur. Mais je maccroche.

Il est 9 h et je suis engage dans un bras de fer avec un esturgeon de plus de deux fois mon poids, descendant en bateau tuyre le Fraser noy de brume, dans le sud-ouest de la Colombie-Britannique, non loin de Harrison Hot Springs. Je suis ici pour donner un coup de main la Fraser River Sturgeon Conservation Society, aide de Tony Nootebos, pcheur aguerri et proprio du BC Sportfishing Group, mon guide dans cette odysse qui tient autant du parcours sportif que de lenqute faunique. Car les esturgeons, victimes dune surpche au tournant du xxe sicle, sont aujourdhui lobjet dtudes, et en Colombie-Britannique leur pche est, depuis 1994, strictement conditionnelle leur remise leau.

En 175 millions dannes dexistence, les esturgeons ont trs peu volu, do leur surnom de dinosaures des mers. (Leur taille monstrueuse y est sans doute aussi pour quelque chose : lesturgeon blanc peut atteindre 6 m et peser jusqu 600 kg.) Comme ce sont des poissons de fond, notre ligne est leste dun plomb quon laisse couler jusque sur le lit du fleuve, pour que lhameon et lappt (une boulette

HIGHER LEARNING HAUTES TUDES

Like a SturgeonOur writer gets hooked on the dinosaur of the sea in B.C.

O es-tu, esturgeon?Le dinosaure des mers a la pche en Colombie-Britannique.By / PAR Genevieve Paiement illustratiOns By / dE lauchie reid

Im grunting and wailing, jerking left to right, straining my arms to the point of exhaustion, when my guide yells out, Someone give her the epidural! We both laugh and I lose my focus and my grip on the reels handle. Under the watchful gaze of a few semi-submerged seals hiding among floating logs, the fishing wire begins to unspool at lightning speed, undoing the last 20 minutes of my hard work. But I keep my grip.

Its 9 a.m. and Im in a jet boat drifting down a mist-shrouded Fraser River in southwestern British Columbia, near Harrison Hot Springs, locked in a battle of wills with a white sturgeon that weighs more than twice what I do. Im here to do my bit for the Fraser River Sturgeon Conservation Society, with veteran fisherman and BC Sportfishing Group owner Tony Nootebos, whos leading me on this odyssey thats part sport and part wildlife study. Sturgeons were massively overfished at the turn of the century; now theyre being stud-ied, and have been under strict catch-and-release rules in B.C. since 1994.

In their 175 million years of existence, sturgeons have evolved very little, which is why theyre known as the dinosaurs of the sea. (But thats also be-cause theyre monstrously sized: The brawny white sturgeon can grow to six metres and weigh up to 600 kilograms.) Since theyre bottom-feeders, weve put a sinker on our line, then let it drop down onto the riverbed so the

40 enRoute7.2010

For addresses and travel information, see Itinerary (page 69). Pour des adresses et la faon dy aller, consultez lItinraire (p. 69).

hook and bait (a glob of salmon roe encased in nylon) sway freely at the bottom. Each fish Nootebos catches with people like me is microchipped so that the species migration patterns and speed of growth can be tracked and the location of its habitats mapped.

After Nootebos gives me some much-needed help to reel in my catch, he dons waders and slips into the icy waters to inspect it. A virgin sturgeon! he yells and injects a microchip into its neck as I marvel at its angular, shark-like body, thick whiskers and gaping, expandable mouth. At 2.52 metres long and weighing 136 kilograms, our catch is about 75 years old, guesses the fisherman.

Back at the Harrison Hot Springs Resort & Spa, where Im staying, I rest my weary forearms while soaking in a mineral pool and muse about that sturgeon being as old as this hotel. And if all goes well, it could live another 50 years. I duck my head underwater and imagine my catch lackadaisically sucking rocks with its accordion mouth somewhere at the bottom of the frigid Fraser, and silently wish it a long and spawn-ful life. Write to us: [email protected]

dufs de saumon enveloppe de nylon) y ballottent librement. Chaque poisson que Nootebos attrape avec des quidams comme moi se fait implanter une puce, dans le but dtablir les schmas de migration, la courbe de croissance et la carto-graphie des habitats de lespce.

Une fois ma prise remonte avec laide de Nootebos, celui-ci enfile ses cuissardes et descend lexaminer dans leau glaciale. Un esturgeon vierge ! scrie-t-il avant de lui implanter une puce prs des oues, tandis que jadmire sa morphologie angu-leuse voquant celle dun requin, sa bouche protractile bante et ses pais barbillons. Avec ses 2,52 m et 136 kg, ce spcimen a dans les 75 ans, estime mon guide.

De retour au Harrison Hot Springs Resort & Spa, o je loge, je repose mes pauvres avant-bras dans un bassin deau minrale en songeant que cet esturgeon a un ge presque aussi vnrable que lhtel. Si tout va bien, il pourrait vivre encore 50 ans. En plongeant ma tte dans leau, jimagine ma prise aspirant nonchalamment les pierres de sa bouche en accordon, au fond du glacial Fraser, et lui souhaite intrieu-rement de vivre et de frayer longtemps. Vos commentaires : [email protected]

NEW ZEALAND The rainbow trout are sure to bite during your guided fly-fishing safari on the renowned Tongariro River, one of the many fishing options offered by Huka Lodge, whose private instructor will help you get your feet wet (without having to ge

air canada enroute — july / juillet 2010

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