africa & middle east textiles issue 2 2015

ITMA 2015 - A preview

ITMA 2015 - Un aperçu

Pleins feux sur l'Iran

L'impression numérique

Mesures d'anticounterfeit

Spotlight on Iran

Digital Printing

Anticounterfeit measures

Interview with Charles Beauduin, president of CEMATEX

ISSUE TWO 2015DEUXIÈME EDITION 2015

AFTEX 2 2015 - Cover_New_Layout 1 18/09/2015 10:45

S01 AFTEX 2 2015 - Start_Layout 1 18/09/2015 10:46

Developments 4News, updates and market reports

Spotlight on Iran 6The latest from Iran’s textile industry

Digital Printing 12Ian Holme discusses the growth of digital printing technology

ITMA 2015 16A round up of what to expect at the textile show in November

Interview with Charles Beauduin 18The president of CEMATEX on the future of the African textile industry

Anticounterfeit measures 20Niki Tait highlights technology to mitigate textile counterfeiting

Développements 4Les nouvelles, mises à jour et des rapports sur le marché

Pleins feux sur l'Iran 6Le dernier de l'industrie textile de l'Iran

L'impression numérique 12Ian Holme discute la croissance de la technologie d'impression numérique

ITMA 2015 16Un round up de ce à quoi s'attendre au spectacle textile en Novembre

Interview avec Charles Beauduin 18Le président du CEMATEX sur l'avenir de l'industrie textile Africaine

Mesures d'anticounterfeit 20Niki Tait met en évidence la technologie pour atténuer la

contrefaçon de textiles

CONTENTS

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2015 3

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S01 AFTEX 2 2015 - Start_Layout 1 18/09/2015 10:46

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 20154

NEWS IN BRIEF

Raymond plans entry intoAfrica, Middle East marketsINDIAN TEXTILE MANUFACTURER Raymondhas announced plans to invest US$5mn to launch itsproducts in the Middle East and Africa markets.The suiting fabrics company has said that it is inthe process of seeking internal approvals forincorporating new overseas subsidiaries. Raymodis planning a wholly owned subsidiary in Dubai.The to-be-incorporated Dubai subsidiary will tradein textile, apparel and related products in theMiddel East and Africa regions.In a note to India’s Bombay Stock Exchange,where the company is listed, Raymond also saidthat its existing wholly owned subsidiary, SilverSpark Apparel, based in Sharjah, will set up agarment manufacturing facility in Ethiopia in theHorn of Africa.“The company will make investment of up toUS$5mn, in one or more tranches” to set up thefacility in Ethiopia, said the statement fromRaymond.

Nigeria’s central bank steps into support textile industryNIGERIA'S APEX BANK, the Central Bank ofNigeria (CBN) has initiated a programme aimed atreviving the country’s cotton, textile and garment(CTG) industry. Under the bank’s Real SectorSupport Facility (RSSF), CBN would provideloans at low rates of interest (in single digits) to theCTG industry.During a meeting with representatives of thecountry’s textile and apparel industry in Lagos inAugust, CBN governor Godwin Emefiele said thatthe textile and clothing sector, which once had over150 mills and employed more than one millionpeople, was now completely dominated by importsfrom Asian countries.Seeking collective efforts from all the stakeholdersinvolved and asking them to play their parts tobring the country’s CTG sector back to its pastglory, Emefiele said the apex bank is ready toprovide funding for the industry under RSSF.

Ethiopia’s cotton industry getsUK government fundingTHE UK GOVERNMENT, through itsDepartment for International Development (DfID),is funding a 15-year cotton strategy for Ethiopiawith the aim to have a new institutionalarrangement for cotton development.Ethiopia’s Ministry of Industry has asked forinternational bids to hire consultants, and thechosen consultant will recommend an institutionalarrangement that will be best for the cotton sector.The new institution will replace the CottonDevelopment Directorate at the Ethiopian TextileIndustry Development Institute which has beenunable to tackle the problems of rising demand,complexity of the increasing number of textileindustries and supply value chain.The final strategy document is expected to beready by January 2016.

October

1 - 4 Modexpo Bucharest, Romaniawww.modexpo.ro

6 - 10 IFAI Expo Anaheim California, USAwww.ifaiexpo.com

11 - 12 International Textile Fair Dubai, UAEwww.internationaltextilefair.com

13 - 15 Inter Shanghai Apparel Fabrics Shanghai, Chinahttp://intertextile-shanghai-apparel-fabrics-autumn.hk.messefrankfurt.com/

21 - 23 Africa Sourcing & Fashion Week Addis Ababa, Ethiopiawww.asfw-online.com

November

4 - 6 Texworld Istanbul, Turkeywww.messefrankfurtindia.in

12 - 19 ITMA 2015 Fiera Milano, Italywww.itma.com

12 - 14 Ethiopian International Textile Expo Addis Ababa, Ethiopiawww.ethiopiantextileexpo.com

24 - 26 ATF Cape Town, South Africa www.atfexpo.co.za

30 Nov - 3 Dec Yiwutex Yiwu, China www.yiwutex.com

January

18 - 19 Anteprima Milan Milan, Italywww.anteprima-fair.it

31 Jan - 2 Feb Heimtexsuisse Bern Bern, Switzerlandwww.heimtexsuisse.ch

February

4 - 6 Istanbul Yarn Fair Istanbul, Turkeywww.istanbulyarnfair.com

15 - 17 Asia Apparel Expo Berlin Berlin, Germanywww.asiaapparelexpo.com

March

9 - 11 Kortex Daegu, South Korea www.kortex.or.kr

17 - 19 Eurostampi Parma, Italy www.mecspe.com

TEXTILE CALENDAR / CALENDRIER

Further information on these events can usually be obtained from the Embassy

(Commercial Office) of the country in question.

Des renseignements plus complets sur ces évènements peuvent être demandés de

l’Ambassade (Bureau Commerciel) du pays en question

S02 AFTEX 2 2015 - News_Layout 1 18/09/2015 10:47

THERE ARE INDICATIONS that the new Nigerian President Muhammadu Buhari may revisit thedecision taken by the previous administration that allowed import of textiles.An official in the Buhari government said that decision to remove textile materials from the list of

banned items was taken in the final weeks of the earlier administration, led by Goodluck Jonathan,which sent a memo to the Nigerian Custom Service conveying the government’s decision on the issue.The source implied that there couldn’t be a dichotomy in what the government expected, as it spoke

of employment generation on one hand and then allowed “cheap textile imports” on the other. Such adecision could hamper the local textile industry, which is already “comatose”, added the source. Hewent on say that the policy has to be reversed. Now, the Nigerian Customs Service has been asked todefend the volte face. “The textile sector is capable of generating employment if it is supported to thrive. The several

textile industries in the north can create several employment opportunities if the textile sector issupported. That is what the present government intends to do,” he explained.Special Adviser to the President on media and publicity Femi Adeshina said that the government is

committed to creating jobs in the country and “any thing that would enhance this position is welcome.” Late in June 2015, the Nigerian government had lifted the embargo on textiles. Nigeria Customs

Service Comptroller General Alhaji Abdullahi Dikko said that Nigerians can now import textile materialssubject to payment of the right duty.One of the leading economies of Africa, Nigeria has always supported the textile industry, which

has been backed by cotton growers and dye-makers. Bright colours and patterns are a common sightin the south of Nigeria, whereas monochromes dominate the north of Nigeria. However, the increasedimport of textiles into the country has affected the local textile industry. Western clothes and outfitsdominate customers’ choice, which hampers the weavers, cotton mill owners and dye manufacturers.

AFRICAN TEXTILE AND apparelimports to the USA couldquadruple to US$4bn over thenext decade, thanks to the AfricaGrowth and Opportunities Act(AGOA) trade programme.According to a US official, the

new provision is giving Africa asignificant edge over competitorssuch as Bangladesh and Vietnam.AGOA has been renewed and theprogramme, in which about 40African countries are eligible totake part, has been extended foranother 10 years.“Ten years is a game-changer,”

said Gail Strickler, US’ assistanttrade representative for textilesand apparel. “Africa should be able to quadruple its exports, literally without a lot of trouble,creating another 500,000 new jobs.”AGOA was established in 2000 and has already been renewed well past its initial expiry

date in 2008. In 2014, sub-Saharan exports reached US$986mn, up nearly six per centfrom 2013, as Lesotho, Kenya, Ethiopia and Tanzania participated in the programme.Due to lower labour costs and abundant raw material (such as Ugandan cotton), Africa

was a favoured manufacturing destination. However, inadequate infrastructure brings thecontinent’s potential down.With the renewal, African officials are confident that fresh investment will follow suit.

Kelebone Leisanyane, CEO of the Lesotho National Development Corporation, said thelandlocked southern African nation, a top exporter under AGOA, is planning two new fabricmills. “I think for Lesotho, AGOA is critical and its renewal means the survival of manyfamilies, with around 35,000 workers in the apparel and textile industry,” he told Reuters.Taiwanese firm New Wide Garment, which has six factories in Kenya and one each in

Lesotho and Ethiopia, also aims to expand. “Now with a 10-year extension, it means mostof the investors will jump into Africa. We intend expanding more in Africa,” said thecompany’s Africa vice-president Heman Boodia.

AGOA extension could catapult Africa’s textileexport profit margin

Buhari likely to reverse decision on textile imports


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With the renewal of AGOA, due 30 September 2015, textilemanufacturers are confident of investments coming in


The new ‘framework’ agreement to lift sanctions has buoyed the economy. But it remains to be seen howthe textile and clothing industries will benefit. Robert Adams finds out

THE SUCCESS OF negotiations with Westernnations on lifting sanctions could result in

more jobs and more investment for the strugglingtextile industries in Iran. This should be translated into more activity by

the international garment traders of Dubai who relyon their huge northern neighbour for a substantialshare of their business. This year it has been Indiangarment exporters who have been benefiting most;next time round it could be suppliers of today’smuch-needed textile machinery.Meanwhile, the patchwork of ad hoc trading

arrangements, which have kept the Iranian industry(much of it publicly-owned despite the abundanceof workshops turning out the world’s most highlyprized carpets) alive in recent years, continues.According to WTO figures, these continue tomaintain a positive balance of trade in basic textileproducts such as woven cotton fabrics. Prominent

among these have been the various deals workedout with India in recent years to barter some crudeoil exports for products like foodstuffs andclothing, and secure deals on favourable rupee-payment terms.China has positioned itself well – in what is

generally seen as an import market with enormousgrowth potential once the nuclear issue is resolved– in much the same way.However, the long drawn-out stalemate over

economic sanctions, kept seriously warm becauseof the allegations of non-transparency by the USA,

and the differences of opinion believed to be held inTehran, has frightened off other potential investors.Many (including UN members that took part in theLausanne negotiations) would love an opportunityto trade with, and invest in, Iran’s struggling textileand clothing industries. They would happily selltoday’s computer-controlled machinery too. Thesewould usher in innocuous employment-creatingopportunities that could not in any way advanceIran’s nuclear ambitions. Meanwhile, India andChina have been creaming off the business. And therecent halving in the international price of oil hasnot helped in any way.Now the fear is that, when all is done and

dusted later this year, certain other industrialisedcountries will be left in privileged positions whenit comes to trading with Iran. This cannot beexpected to go down well across the easily-traversed waters of the Gulf. �

Better times aheadfor Iran?


SPOTLIGHT

India and China continue to take advantage of the vibrant carpet industry in Iran, while the GCCnations remain embroiled in discussion over the sanctions. (Photo: astudio/Shutterstock)

“Ongoing discussions oneconomic sanctions are being

kept warm due to allegedtransparency by the USA.”


om Me Fro

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R

DANS UN CONTEXTE de protestation etde troubles sociaux relatifs à la baisse

des subventions sur le carburant, legouvernement a annoncé un plan majeur pourrevitaliser le secteur public en difficulté del’industrie de transformation du textile. Unproblème se pose toutefois : les subventionset les renflouements inhérents à ce plan sontoctroyés à l’industrie du filage et du tissage etnon aux producteurs de coton en difficulté quidoivent payer le carburant de leurs tracteurs etd’autres frais. Les prix qu’ils perçoivent sontloin d’être satisfaisants. Il en résulte une baisse de production et de

disponibilité locales en coton ultra-fin, lesproducteurs continuant à se détourner ducoton pour privilégier d’autres cultures. Cecise traduit par une hausse des importations enlin et autres tissus de qualité inférieure et enune perte de possibilités d’emploi dans lesecteur de la transformation de base. Pourtant, le commerce textile est toujours

florissant puisqu’il représente le deuxièmemarché industriel de l’Égypte bien que lasurface consacrée à la culture du coton aitconsidérablement chuté en un demi-siècle.C’est pourquoi les entreprises

commerciales du Caire et d’Alexandrie sedemandent si « le programme de réformeannoncé l’été dernier est suffisant ».À première vue, si l’on tient compte des

troubles sociaux que rencontre le pays, lesindustries textile et vestimentaire se portentétonnamment bien au sein d’un commercemondial de plus en plus difficile. Selon lesderniers chiffres* de l’OMC, les exportationsde vêtements de l’Égypte se sontcorrectement maintenues au-dessus de1,2 milliards de dollars américains à l’année

(contre 1,55 milliards de dollars américains en2011) tandis que les importations devraientfinalement cesser d’augmenter. De plus, lepays réalise un excellent surplus commercialannuel de 0,8 milliard de dollars américainsgrâce à ce secteur à forte densité de maind’œuvre, porté par les exportations versl’Europe et les États-Unis. Les importationsoccidentales de vêtements de toutes lessources ont en réalité diminué l’an passé, desorte que cet exploit est de taille dans unepériode trouble.Tandis que les exportations de textile ont

continué de se développer de manièreincertaine, passant de 1,29 milliards dedollars en 2010 à 1,37 milliards de dollars en2012 avec un récent pic à 1,52 milliards dedollars entre les deux. De 2011 à 2012, lemarché mondial total de ces produits de basea chuté de plus de 3 %. Au même moment, lesimportations de textile de l’Égypte ontcontinué de se maintenir plus ou moins aumême niveau malgré des exportationssupérieures à 0,9 milliard de dollars en 2012.Cependant, en 2000, l’Égypte importait pour àpeine 0,2 milliard de dollars.En combinant les deux secteurs, il en

résulte globalement que « si ce résultat n’estpas bon, il aurait pu être nettement pire ».Des conseillers externes disent depuis des

années que l’industrie du filage et du tissageest trop dépendante du soutien dugouvernement si bien que la part des fibreslocales dans le processus de transformation acontinué de chuter. Les principaux

consommateurs, dont la plupart appartiennentà l’industrie des vêtements dominée par lesecteur privé, ont opté, pendant ce temps-là,pour un approvisionnement à moindre coût etpour des sources de tissus plus fiables (cepoint étant discutable), comme l’Inde et lesrégions orientales. Voilà l’orientation que suitle marché de la consommation. Les tissuspour chemises et la contexture élevée destissus en provenance d’Égypte étant moinsdemandés en dehors de l’Europe, des États-Unis et (de plus en plus) des pays du Golfe.On peut ainsi se demander dans quelle

mesure un autre programme de soutienpourra changer la situation, d’autant plus queles plans annoncés impliquent larelocalisation de certaines des plus grandesusines sous-performantes dans les zonesindustrielles en développement de sorte quel’espace qu’elles occupent puisse êtreréalloué au logement dans les métropolesgrouillantes de vie.Il est toutefois à craindre qu’au lieu de

relancer l’industrie textile, les nouvellessubventions soient englouties par la haussedes coûts relatifs à l’électricité et à la maind’œuvre ; ces problèmes majeurs étant déjàceux auxquels l’industrie de transformationdes fibres est confrontée. En l’absence detoute autre stratégie à long terme, la culturedu coton en Basse Égypte pourraitdisparaître. �

* Statistiques sur le commerce international -2013

Les réformes mises enplace en Égypte seront-elles suffisantes ?

TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2ÈME EDITION/20158

PLEINS FEUX SUR L’EGYPTE

La réforme globale dusecteur de la transformationque le gouvernement aannoncé il y a quelques moisest censée ralentir lesimportations et freiner ledélaissement de la productionde coton à longue fibre

par Robert Adams


The Comfort of Competence

Valuable systems that make you unique Rieter is worldwide the only supplier of excellent complete systems for all 4 spinning processes. Rieter operates with cutting-edge production machines and technologies. That puts you ahead of the market and drives your success. Stand out from the crowd.

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Right planning is everything Rieter o�ers more than just textile machines for all 4 spinning processes. From feasibility analyses to �nancing to project management, right through to maintenance, Rieter customers stay on top at all times.

Comfort is: Staying on top thanks to Rieter systems.

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PRODUCT NEWS

RIETER HAS INAUGURATED the firstApplication & Research Centre for SpinningTechnology in China, considered to beamong the most advanced centres in theworld. Officials said that the facility willcontribute towards further positivedevelopment of the Chinese spinningindustry.

Rieter group CEO Norbert Klapper said,"The new spinning centre offers ourcustomers not only a unique new service, butalso makes a significant contribution towardsthe further positive development of theChinese textile industry."

The new spinning centre in China isequipped with all four significant spinningprocesses, modern machines, a laboratory,as well as training rooms and showrooms.Consultation is provided by experiencedtextile technologists. Customers and fibreproducers can test their products and alsoobtain advice on complex technologicalissues. In addition, the globally unique centreoffers training of internal and externalspecialists. Main focal points deal with theuse and maintenance of modern spinningmills, the development and marketing ofyarns as well as yarn and fibre measuring,yarn application and fabric development.

Optimal manufacturing costs withconsistent yarn quality are the alpha and

omega for successful spinning mills. Toachieve this, cutting-edge technology, theappropriate know-how and a high level ofexpertise are indispensable. All Rietertechnology locations are closely linked and

maintain an ongoing exchange of information.With the spinning centre in Changzhou,Rieter's global technology know-how is nowalso available to customers in China and thesurrounding countries.

Rieter opens state-of-the-art research centre in China

Employees sample a new spinning machine in China. (Photo: Rieter)

SWISS TEXTILE SOLUTIONS major Oerlikon launched safety andquality solutions for the HMLS polyester yarn, to be used in tire cord.Oerlikon Barmag is one of two companies worldwide that delivermachine solutions for the production of HMLS yarn. The material is tear-resistant, and elastic, as well as as well as dimensionally stable at hightemperatures. It is predominantly used in high-speed tires, which – as aresult of the high speeds achieved – are subjected to particularly highloads. Here, strong polyester tire cord has almost completely replacedviscose fiber rayon for ecological reasons. The decisive benefit of HMLSyarns compared to alternative polyester yarns is the extreme dimensionalstability of the high-performance yarn.As a result of contact with the road, tires are subjected to constant

friction, which heats up the tires and consequently increases the internalair pressure. Therefore, the higher the speed, the higher the tiretemperature and the pressure within the tire. The HMLS yarn acquires itsunique properties in the spinning process. High speeds in the productionprocess guarantee a stable arrangement of the molecules within thepolymer, which forms the actual filament. The internal structure of themolecule chain is, in turn, decisive for the dimensional stability of thesubsequent yarn. Manufacturing this material in an economical mannerrequires stable process technology and high-quality components. Thesedetermine the requirements for the spinning plant, the godets and thewinders. The higher the spinning and winding speeds, the moresensitively the filaments react to even the smallest irregularities in thepolymer melt, which can then quickly result in breaks in the filament. Asin the case of all filament yarns, each yarn break impacts on the qualityand sale price of the yarn packages.

COATS GROUP PLC, a leading industrial thread and consumertextile crafts business, has launched the Coats Signal thread. It is aspecially developed premium reflective thread, designed to illuminatein the dark or low visibility conditions.

The product, that was launched at Texprocess, has a high level ofretro-reflection and is designed mainly for fashion applications, saidthe company. It is silver in colour and can be used as an embroiderythread to differentiate products by creating decorative reflectivefeatures in logos, stitching patterns and seams. While it is mainlydecorative, when sewn on outdoor and active wear, it also helpsenhance visibility at night time or in difficult weather conditions. CoatsSignal thread combines the tenacity of a polyester filament coverwith a retro-reflective core and has excellent strength and durability,added the company.

The embroidery thread has a special lubricated finish to protect itfrom needle heat and ensure smooth sewing, so it retains itsreflectivity after the intense sewing process during apparelproduction. When used in the top cover of flatseams, the combinationof an intricate stitch formation and reflective property of the threadgives an eye-catching appearance to the seam which also adds apremium look to the product.

Rajiv Sharma, global CEO, industrial at Coats Group plc said, “AtCoats, we understand the production challenges apparelmanufacturers can face when using innovative new types of thread.Using that knowledge, we have created a unique thread which canwithstand the rigours of the sewing process and still retain itsreflective functionality in the end product.”

Coats launches glow-in-the-dark thread Oerlikon's solutions for HMLS yarn

S04 AFTEX 2 2015 - Product News_Layout 1 18/09/2015 10:49

THE 3N1 AND 1N1 yarn clearers from Loepfe utilise an optical sensingtechnology to detect yarn faults, such as the Moiré effect, in open-end spunyarns.Both clearers cover open-end yarn counts from 3 Nec to 60 Nec at a

maximum spinning speed of up to 400 metres per minute with one sensinghead. Compared to 1N1, the 3N1 offers an additional detector for foreignmatter and a triboelectric sensor for detection of synthetic foreign matter.

The optical sensing technology is immune to changing humidity levels,which can occur quite often in spinning mills. Other environmental factorslike changing temperatures have no effect on the sensor either.The central unit provides and analyses all quality and production related

data on its large touch screen. Periodic faults which could result in Moiréeffect, and which cannot be detected during subsequent laboratory qualitycontrol, are visualised as well. In general, the use of a yarn clearer eliminatesthe need for laboratory quality controls of the spun yarn. Users have theadvantage of 100 per cent quality control and fast reaction times.

The yarn clearer type 3N1 from Loepfe detects periodic yarn faults in open-end spunyarns in a fast and reliable way. (Photo: Loepfe)


Loepfe yarn clearers to prevent Moiré effect

RESEARCHERS AT THE University of Wisconsin-Madison in the UShave started work on a new solar textile technology. Marianne Fairbanks, anassistant professor in university’s School of Human Ecology’s designstudies programme and co-founder of Noon Solar, a company that makessolar-charging handbags, is working with Trisha Andrew, who is an energyresearcher and assistant professor of chemistry at the university.Combining their respective expertise in design and chemistry, their

collaboration has the potential to bring together the early stages oftechnologies from the laboratory with the actual manufacturing process.“There’s no one out there, there’s no designer working with a device

person trying to do this and that’s what really excites me about this projecteven today,” says Andrew.Fairbanks and Andrew have been given a grant by Wisconsin Alumni

Research Foundation, and have begun their experiments with different waysto create solar textiles.One of the projects they are working on involves graduate student

Lushuai Zhang who is using vapour phase chemistry to coat differentfabric weave types and structures with a polymer that increases itsconductivity. Adding two layers of dyes and another electrode will make itinto a complete solar cell. Another project, based on Fairbanks’ knowledge of weaving, attempts to

create spools of thread for each of the four components required in the firstproject. The resulting threads could be woven together to make a fullyfunctional solar device.Using results from both the projects, the two collaborators hope to have

a prototype for a solar fabric ready by the middle of next year. After that, itwill probably take a few more years before the fabric can be used forcreating usable and wearable technologies.

Fabric that doubles up as a solar cell


Digital printing is changing the way fabrics are printed around the world. The technology is still a tinyshare of the global fabric printing market but could soon be the next big thing. Ian Holme brings us up tospeed with the latest developments.

IN 2015, THE global fabric printing market isstill dominated by traditional (analogue)printing methods, mainly using rotary and flatscreen technologies. In 2011, the major printingcountries for screen printed fabrics were China(30%), India (17.5%), other Asian countries(18.8%), Americas (12.9%), Europe, Russia, CIS(11.1%) while the Middle East and Africancountries contributed the remaining 9.7 per cent ofthe global total. In 2013, this market amounted tosome 29bn sqm and could rise to 32bn sqm overthe next few years if global economic activityincreases.The colourants used in screen printing are

dominated by pigments which make up about 50per cent of the total colourants used globally.Applied with a binder (cross-linker) and softener,pigments can be used to print any fibre substrate,including the important area of fibre blend fabrics.Up to 55 per cent of blended fabrics are estimatedto be composed of polyester/cellulosic fibres andthe advances in softer handling screen pigmentprinted fabrics have helped to maintain thedominance of this approach. Pigments are used forscreen printing home furnishings, fashion, outdoorand some technical textiles like camouflagefabrics.The next most important class of colourants is

reactive dyestuffs which are used in about 20 percent of screen prints, followed by dispersedyestuffs (15%), vat dyestuffs (8%) and acid/otherdyestuffs (7%). Reactive dyestuffs are used infashion, bed linen and camouflage fabrics.Disperse dyestuffs are mainly used in printedpolyester swim suits, automotive seat fabrics andother technical textile applications. Vat dyestuffsare used in fashion and camouflage fabrics, whileacid/other dyestuffs are employed in printingfashion fabrics, nylon swim suits, as well as flagsand banners.

Slower processes of hand block printing, stenciland hand screen printing processes are now largelyconfined to highly specialised fabrics and craft enduses. Engraved roller printing is used mostly insome countries in Asia on narrower fabric widths

compared with those that can be printed usingrotary or flat screen printing techniques. Dry-heat(sublimation) transfer printing is now used mainlyfor garments and flags and banners.Rotary screen printing machinery can print

fabrics up to five metres in width and up to 24-36colours, although most print designs are composedof less than eight colours. Automatic or semi-automatic flat screen printing machinery is usedfor many high precision designs but the printingspeed is slower than for rotary screen printing.The most rapidly growing sector of textile

printing is considered to be digital printing usinginkjet technologies. The cumulative annual growthrate of digital inkjet printing is estimated to be 25-30 per cent (excluding China), compared with lessthan three per cent for screen printing. In 2012, theamount of digital inkjet printed fabric wasestimated to be in the range of 600-700mn sqm andit could well exceed one billion square metres. Ifadvances in technology continue to increase theproduction rates of digital printing machinery,even that figure could well be an underestimate.Digital printing acounts for only about two per

cent of global fabric printing, compared with

rotary screen (65%), automatic flat screen (25%),transfer printing (4%), hand printing (3%) andcopper roller printing (<1%), but by 2017, it couldincrease to five per cent of printed fabricproduction. In 2012, the estimated makeup of enduses for digital printing were signage, flags andbanners (41%), fashion apparel (43%), hometextiles (8%) and sportswear (8%).An advantage of digital inkjet printing is that it

enables high quality designs like photographicdesigns to be printed, something not achievable viascreen printing technology. Digital inkjet printingis ideally suited to the fast fashion industry becauseit can provide quick response to changing fashiondemands and also can be used to support masscustomisation technology. Digital printing can alsobe used for sampling purposes to speed up productdevelopment.

PRINT HEAD DEVELOPMENTSThe major developments in the design of printheads for inkjet printing are the introduction ofnovel print heads with an increased number ofnozzles per head coupled with an increase in thefiring frequency, i.e., the number of ink droplets

The Digital Advantage

12

PRINTING

Digital inkjet printing is the fastest growing sector in the textile printing industry. (Photo: Amnarj Tanongrattana/Shutterstock)

Digital printing accounts foronly about two per cent of

global fabric printing but is arapidly growing sector.



emitted per second. Both these developments willfacilitate higher production speeds, important forroll-to-roll fabric printing machinery. Increasingthe number of print heads in a print bar ordeveloping print heads with more nozzles in anindividual print head will increase printerproductivity.From 2003 onwards, most print heads had a

nozzle density of 512 nozzles per print head butthis has steadily increased over the last five years.Print heads with 1,024 nozzles per head havebecome more common and the introduction of theKyocera KJ4B print head has increased the nozzledensity to 2,656 nozzles per print head. Increasingthe nozzle density allows the use of fewer printheads and the use of more compact print bars. Thismakes the printing machine more reliable byreducing the possible points at which failure canoccur. Additionally, the use of more compactcarriages on scanning machines enables lighterframes that exert less stress on the print system.

DIGITAL PRINTERSSPG Prints has unveiled a new single pass digitalprinter to be launched at ITMA 2015 in Milan.Called Pike, it incorporates a full-width array ofFujifilm Samba print heads in an Archer print bar.The Archer technology has been engineered toaccurately jet ink droplets across distances muchgreater than normally found in competitive printheads. For example, the Kyocera KJ4B print headsare typically 1.5 mm away from the fabric surfaceto be printed, while SPG Prints' Archer technologyis typically about four millimetres away. This hasthe important effect of reducing the possibility of a

'head strike' where the fabric touches the printhead, a common cause of damage to print headswhich are expensive to replace. The greaterdistance from the fabric surface could lead to theformation of a mist during jetting and SPG Printshas developed Pike Reactive inks to eliminate thispotential problem.The first SPG Prints Pike printer will have a set

of six Archer print bars, each containing 43 printheads to allow fabric printing over a width of 1.85m. With a print resolution of 1,200 x 1,200 dpi anda jetting frequency of 32 kHz, typical printingspeed is expected to be around 40 metres perminute. The maximum speed will be around 75metres per minute with the print droplet sizesranging between 2-10 picolitres. The Archer printbars will be built in modules of three so that thefabric printer will have the option to print three, sixand nine colours.Colorjet (India), a manufacturer of wide format

digital printers, has introduced three new digitalinkjet printing machines, Softjet Grand, Vastrajetand Fabjet Grand. Softjet Grand is aimed at thesoft signage sector, such as flags and bannerswhich are directly printed on polyester-basedfabrics that are recyclable. Vastrajet is designed forthe whole of the digital textile printing sector, bothfor sampling and for commercial purposes.

MS Italy has recently sold its first MS-LaRiosingle pass machine which was shown printingseven colours at a speed of 31.7 linear metres perminute in a video at ITMA 2011. Atexco (China) isalso to introduce a single pass digital printer with1,200 dpi print resolution. Atexco also producesVega 3000 and Vega 7000 digital printers. Vega7000 incorporates 32 Kyocera KJ4B print heads,can attain a print output of up to 1,000 sqm perhour amd can print widths of up to 3.4 metres.Figarol (France) has developed the first five

metre-wide dye-sublimation printer, Figatex 5000.This has been developed from an ultravioletmachine in a partnership with a digital inkmanufacturer Sawgress. Figatex 5000 usesaqueous dye sublimation inks printing CMYK(cyan, magenta, yellow and black) using 16 Ricohprint heads.Arioli (Italy) has launched its first production

scale roll-to-roll digital textile printer series withthe ArioPrint-8 and AvioPrint-16 scanning printersthat have eight print heads in two rows and 16 printheads in four rows respectively. They useKyocera's two-colour KJ403T print heads whichcan deliver 348 sqm per hour in two-pass, 1,200 x1,200 dpi production mode, or up to 750 sqm perhour using one-pass, 300 x 300 dpi on fabrics witha printing width of 200 cm.

INK DEVELOPMENTSDuPont has introduced its novel Artistri Britedigital textile inks which have been engineered toprovide a step change in colour saturation andspeed and advanced DTG printing. The DuPontArtistri Brite inks provide a visible difference withup to 40 per cent improvement in colour comparedwith the previous generation of DTG inks. Thesenew inks have been designed to provide colours fornew generation printers that can print up to threetimes faster than the current technology. ArtistriBrite inks can also be cured in automated gasconvection ovens which eliminates the need formanual hand presses. These novel inks aresupposed to be easy to use with an ink formulationwhose pH balance minimises print head problemssuch as clogging.Kiian Digital has launched three new vivid

fluorescent dye sublimation transfer inks, namely,green, yellow and pink inks as part of its Digistarrange. These offer exceptional graphics quality onstriking sportswear and other textile prints. The inkformulations offer good drying properties and ahigh chromatic performance. These complementKiian's Digistar PES HD-One for earlier Epsonprint heads, Digistar Hi-Pro inks engineered for thelatest DX7 heads and Digistar K-One transfersublimation inks designed for use on the highcapacity Kyocera print heads. �

An advatage of digital printing is its use for printing small sample quantities which can help speed up productdevelopment. (Photo: Amnarj Tanongrattana/Shutterstock)

Higher nozzle density in ink jet printers allows the use of fewerprint heads and more compact print bars. This makes the printers

more reliable by reducing the potential points of failure.

PRINTING

13AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2015


par Ian Holme

LA PRODUCTION DE teintures et de produits chimiques destinés auxproduits textiles est liée à la croissance du marché des fibres textiles.L’étude mondiale récente de Fiber Organon a mis en évidence que laproduction mondiale de fibres manufacturées a augmenté en 2013 pouratteindre 63,8 millions de tonnes, soit une hausse d’environ 5,8 %(3,5 millions de tonnes) par rapport à 2012. D’une manière générale, laproduction mondiale de fibres textiles a augmenté de 2,7 % (2,4 millionsde tonnes) pour atteindre 90,9 millions de tonnes. La production de fibressynthétiques et de fibres cellulosiques a augmenté respectivement de5,3 % et de 12,2 % pour atteindre 59 millions de tonnes et 4,8 millions detonnes. De plus, le Lenzing Group a développé sa production de fibresTencel Lyocell pour atteindre 220 000 tonnes par an en 2014.La force dominante des fibres manufacturées se situe en Asie, cette

région ayant contribué en 2013 à la production mondiale de fibresmanufacturées à hauteur d’environ 87 %. La Chine a représenté 64 %,suivi de l’Inde 7 % et de Taïwan 3,5 % tandis que les États-Unis ontreprésenté 4 % et l’Europe occidentale 3,2 %. Les principales fibres àl’échelon mondial restent le polyester et le coton. C’est pourquoi denombreux développements en matière de teintures et de produitschimiques cibleront la teinture de ces fibres. Les fils continus de polyester(31,3 millions de tonnes) et les fibres discontinues de polyester(15,4 millions de tonnes) ont connu des taux de croissance de 8 % et 2 %,respectivement, en 2013. La production mondiale de polyester est passéeà 46,7 millions de tonnes, marquée par une hausse de 2,46 millions detonnes ou 6 % en un an. Par conséquent, les fibres de polyester comptentpour environ 73 % de la production totale de fibres manufacturées. Lesfibres naturelles (coton et laine) ont enregistré une baisse d’environ 4 %pour atteindre 25,6 milliards de tonnes et 1,1 million de tonnes,respectivement.La principale collusion qui résulte des statistiques met en évidence que

les teintures et produits chimiques relatifs à la teinture des fibres depolyester et du coton et d’autres fibres cellulosiques (comme la viscose,le modal et le lyocell) continueront de dominer le marché. Les colorantsdispersés des fibres de polyester ont été regroupés en fonction de leurapplication finale, en termes de résistance requise des couleurs à lalumière, de traitements par voie humide et de frottement (résistance auxfrottements).Certaines statistiques sur les teintures publiées par Atul Ltd (Colors

Division) Valsad, Gujarat, Inde, indiquent que les colorants réactifscomptent désormais pour environ 60 % des teintures utilisées pour lestextiles domestiques fabriqués à partir de fibres cellulosiques. Lescouleurs Vat (12 %), Indigo (9 %), Direct (9 %), Sulphur (8 %) et Naphthol(2 %) constituent la part restante. Les colorants clairement dispersés etréactifs continueront d’occuper une place majeure dans lesdéveloppements futurs des fabricants de teinture.Dans le domaine de la fabrication des teintures, SK Capital a finalisé

l’acquisition des activités Textile Chemicals, Paper Specialities etEmulsions de Clariant. Société d’investissement privé, SK Capital acombiné ces trois divisions pour créer Archroma, une entreprise intégréeaxée sur la collaboration et le marché. Archroma a récemment prisl’initiative d’acquérir 49 % des actions du fabricant de colorants M.Dohmen SA, qui fabrique des teintures et des produits chimiques pour lessecteurs automobile, du revêtement et de l’habillement. M Dohmenpossède des usines de production en Suisse, en Allemagne et en Corée,ainsi que des réseaux de vente aux États-Unis et en Italie. Ce nouveau

partenariat entre Archroma et M Dohmen devrait élargir le portefeuille deproduits composites et développer de nouveaux marchés pour lesteintures et produits chimiques, notamment en Asie et en Amérique Latine.Un rapport sur le marché mondial des teintures et des pigments réalisé

par MarketsandMarkets, une entreprise de conseil et de recherche sur lemarché mondial basée aux États-Unis, a estimé que la consommation decolorants va augmenter suivant un taux de croissance annuel cumulatif(TCAC) de 3,6 % pour atteindre 11 millions de tonnes métriques d’ici2018. La région Asie-Pacifique constituera le principal demandeur encolorant, du fait de l’importance de la classe moyenne dans les pays envoie de développement comme la Chine et l’Inde. Entre autres facteursqui affectent la demande en teintures et pigments figurent les niveaux dedépenses des consommateurs, le style de vie des populations et unepréférence marquée vers l’utilisation de couleurs différentes.L’industrie textile est le principal débouché des colorants. Global

Industry Analysts Inc (États-Unis) a indiqué que l’industrie textilereprésente environ 70 % de la demande totale en colorants. Cependant,l’utilisation de pigments dans l’industrie textile relève principalement del’impression textile et de la pigmentation de masse des fibresmanufacturées. La Chine et l’Inde devraient constituer les principauxmarchés des pigments et colorants organiques.MarketsandMarkets conclut que le marché mondial des pigments, qui

comprend les revêtements, les plastiques, le papier, les encres d’impressionet les textiles, devrait connaître un taux de croissance annuel cumulatif de 4 %entre 2013 et 2018. Toutefois, l’industrie manufacturière des colorants estconfrontée à des problèmes comme la surcapacité mondiale, des loisenvironnementales plus strictes et la nécessité de se conformer au règlementREACH dans l’Union européenne.Research and Markets a publié un autre rapport sur les prévisions et

les opportunités du marché des produits chimiques pour matières textilesen Inde d’ici 2018 (India Textile Chemical Market Forecast andOpportunities, 2018). Le marché actuel des produits chimiques pourmatières textiles en Inde est très fragmenté. Il compte quelques300 entreprises de différentes tailles. Cependant, d’ici 2018, unepréférence plus marquée pour les produits de qualité associée à unepénétration de marché grandissante des textiles techniques devrait

Teintures et produits chimiquesprêts pour la croissance

14

teintures et produits chimiques

Research and Markets a publié un autre rapport sur les prévisions et les opportunitésdu marché des produits chimiques pour matières textiles en Inde d’ici 2018

TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2ÈME EDITION/2015

S05 AFTEX 2 2015 - Dyes And Chemicals French_Layout 1 18/09/2015 10:50

diminuer les parts de marché détenues par les entreprises plus petites.Les grandes entreprises internationales comme BASF, Archroma et

Huntsman s’intéressent de plus en plus aux innovations dans le domainedes produits chimiques pour matières textiles. Leur principale stratégie : seconcentrer sur les produits respectueux de l’environnement, ainsi que surles produits haut de gamme qui confèrent des propriétés fonctionnellesaux matières textiles. Les bio-auxiliaires sont de plus en plus utilisés, demême que les produits chimiques respectueux de l’environnement, afin deréduire la charge de pollution globale émanant des unités de traitement parvoie humide des textiles. La croissance rapide de l’industrie textile et del’habillement en Inde est également accompagnée par la missiontechnologique du gouvernement indien, désireux de soutenir les nouvellesentreprises en leur apportant des connaissances sur les textiles techniques.Les non-tissés constituent un secteur de développement important sur

le marché des textiles techniques. La Gherzi Textile Organisation deZurich, Suisse, une entreprise de conseil mondiale incontournable, a misen évidence les cinq principaux moteurs de la croissance des applicationsen non-tissé. Il s’agit de :� la croissance de la population mondiale qui s’accompagne d’unedemande en produits d’hygiène, applications médicales et biens deconsommation ;

� l’industrialisation des marchés émergents qui s’accompagne d’unehausse de la demande en automobiles, géotextiles et vêtements deprotection ;

� l’industrialisation accrue de l’agriculture (protection des semences,paillage, drainage et ombrage) ;

� la relocalisation des usines dans les zones de filtrage, vêtements deprotection, membranes de toit et géotextiles ; et

� une prise de conscience croissante de l’environnement qui pousse àrecourir davantage aux produits de filtrage, aux absorbants d’huile et àl’enfouissement des déchets.

La production de colorants et pigments organiques dépend des produitschimiques intermédiaires obtenus à partir des produits chimiquesprimaires dérivés de l’industrie pétrochimique. Au sein de l’Unioneuropéenne, les teinturiers et les imprimeurs de textiles ont dû faire face àune hausse de prix jusqu’à 80 % en 2014. Ceci découle de l’instauration,par les organismes de réglementation en matière d’environnement, denormes plus strictes en matière d’eaux usées, notamment en Chine. Cettenouvelle réglementation a entraîné l’arrêt de nombreuses unités deproduction. La forte diminution de la capacité de production restante aconduit à des pénuries en produits chimiques intermédiaires en Chine eten Inde et à une hausse considérable des prix des colorants.Les produits chimiques intermédiaires comme l’acide H, l’acide

bromaminique et l’anthraquinone ont été particulièrement affectés. Lesfournisseurs restants auraient donc augmenté leurs prix de 167 à 447 %.Les principales catégories de colorants touchées par la hausse des prixcomprennent les colorants directs et réactifs pour les fibres cellulosiquesassociés aux colorants dispersés pour le polyester et aux colorants àcomplexe métallifère ou acide pour les fibres de laine. Si les teinturiers et lesimprimeurs détenant une PME au sein de l’Union européenne ne peuventpas augmenter leurs prix finaux, il pourrait en résulter quelques faillites.Huntsman Textile Effects a développé sa gamme Lanaset de colorants

pour inclure des teintes supplémentaires pour la laine et les tissus maillésen polyamide. Les colorants Lanaset PA offrent des mélangestrichromatiques reposant sur une base ton sur ton flexible pour obtenir lateinte correspondante. Les colorants Lanaset PA sont faciles à appliquerpour obtenir des teintes profondes. De plus, sur les microfibres enpolyamide, le processus de teinture est simple, économique et efficace.Les colorants Lanaset PA sont conçus pour offrir d’excellentesperformances sur les vêtements d’extérieur et de sport, y compris lescoupe-vents, les combinaisons de ski, les vêtements d’alpinisme, lesmaillots de bain et la lingerie. Ils conviennent aux tissus laminés car ils nerequièrent aucune étape de fixation dans la plupart des cas. Les colorantsLanaset ont été développés pour garantir leur tenue dans l’eau chlorée de

sorte qu’il n’est plus nécessaire d’appliquer un adjuvant spécifique pouraméliorer la résistance au chlore.Archroma s’est récemment concentrée sur la teinture durable des

jeans grâce à ces colorants Optisul C à base de soufre associés à despigments Printofix T sélectionnés pour obtenir différents effets délavés.L’utilisation de colorants Optisul C est plus simple que les techniquesactuelles et l’application dans le cadre d’un processus de séchage aufoulard permet de supprimer la consommation d’eau par rapport à lateinture des tissus à base de laine. Il est possible de combiner l’utilisationde ces colorants avec des résines pour obtenir des finitions et destouchers tout en nuance sans nuire à l’aspect final décontracté.La technologie Advanced Denim d’Archroma repose sur les procédés

Denim-Ox et Pad Sizing-Ox. Ces procédés sont conçus pour réduire laconsommation d’eau jusqu’à 92 % et les déchets de coton de 87 %. Enoutre, il a été démontré que ce procédé permet de réaliser jusqu’à 30 %d’économie sur le coût énergétique par rapport au procédé traditionnelutilisé pour le denim.Un agent de blanchiment fluorescent novateur à base de stilbène a été

introduit par Huntsman Textile Effects pour permettre au traitement destextiles par voie humide de répondre à des normes très élevées enmatière de blanchiment des fibres cellulosiques. L’Uvitex BHA LIQ est unagent de blanchiment à base de stilbène à affinité élevée qui offre unestabilité et une résistance inégalées aux acides. Il ne pose pas lesproblèmes rencontrés avec les autres agents de blanchiment à base destilbène à l’origine d’une coloration verdâtre après la neutralisation ou ladéfinition d’un pH acide. L’Uvitex BHA LIQ est conçu pour satisfaire lesnormes élevées en matière de blancheur des marques internationalespour les serviettes, les vêtements tricotés, les T-shirts, les sous-vêtementset les autres articles fabriqués à partir de fibres cellulosiques.L’Uvitex BHA LIQ présente une stabilité élevée aux acides avec un pH

entre 4 et 5, et une résistance élevée avec un pH inférieur à 4. Cenouveau produit propose une gamme de blanc du neutre au légèrementbleuté présentant une excellente résistance au lavage et à l’usage. Autrecaractéristique importante de ce nouvel agent de blanchiment, il réduit lerisque de jaunissement phénolique. L’Uvitex BHA LIQ est applicable aumoyen des méthodes d’application par épuisement et convientparfaitement aux systèmes de blanchiment discontinu au peroxyded’hydrogène, ainsi qu’au blanchiment réducteur. Utilisable avec lessystèmes de dosage automatique, cet agent de blanchiment fluorescentse caractérise par un épuisement du bain très élevé, d’où une réductionde la pollution des eaux usées. De même que les autres produits Uvitex,l’Uvitex BHA LIQ figure sur la liste positive « Zero Discharge of HazardousChemicals (ZDHC - aucun déversement de produits chimiquesdangereux) » de Huntsman et peut donc être utilisé par les entreprises quiont signé la feuille de route commune du ZDHC.Sarex Chemicals (Mumbai, Inde) a lancé un nouvel agent

d’écoulement/de dispersion pour les colorants destinés au polyester, leDyewell-PES. Cet agent de dispersion et d’écoulement concentré et peumoussant améliore la migration des colorants dispersés afin d’obtenir unmeilleur niveau de teinture. Le Dyewell-PES est conçu pour contrôler letaux de dispersion du colorant obtenu dans des conditions de teintureinverse afin de parvenir à une coloration uniforme. La présence deDyewell-PES n’affecte par la teinte requise. Le Dyewell-PES est utilisé àraison de 0,3 à 0,5 g/l dans la teinture par épuisement des rubans, fibres,fils et tissus en polyester et pour corriger une teinture défectueuse (1 à1,5 g/l, le cas échéant).Sarex Chemicals a également lancé un nouveau produit spécialisé de

prétraitement pour les impressions numériques à jet d’encre, le Sarasol-1101. Ce produit unique a été conçu pour améliorer la valeur de la couleurpendant l’impression à jet d’encre sur tous les types de tissus avec descolorants dispersés, réactifs et acides. Le Sarasol-1101 augmente laviscosité localisée de l’encre tout en évitant la dilution et la dispersion descouleurs pendant l’impression. Le Sarasol-1101 n’affecte pas le toucherdu tissu et améliore la planéité et la netteté de l’impression. Enfin, leSarasol-1101 est également stable face aux agressions bactériennes. �

teintures et produits chimiques

15TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2ÈME EDITION/2015


ahead of the largest textile expo set to take place in Italy, organisers give us the lowdown on the variousexhibitors, their new products to be presented at the show and special events that are meant to engagevarious members of the global textile industry

Come November aNd milan will host thelargest textile show, ITma. at the Fiera

milano rho between 12 and 19 November, ITma2015 will witness leaders in textile and garmentmanufacturing technologies converge and sharetheir ideas and innovations

more than 100,000 visitors are expected at theeight-day event. There has been considerablecuriosity since the last ITma was held in 2011.Four years is a long enough time for exhibitors toshow what they have to offer to the industry, feelexperts.

Groz-beckhert will display its new boothconcept with machines made of acrylic glass. Forthe first time, the new product sector Carding willalso be represented. German textile dyeing majorThies is expected to showcase its new dyeingmachine Icone, ideal for bleaching and dyeingfibres in different forms. Crealet, a leadingmanufacturer of electronically-controlled warpfeed systems for weaving machines, will promotea new offer in specialised weaving machinemanufacture.

oerlikon, through its barmag and Neumagcompetence brands, will present its latest at ITma2015. oerlikon barmag will showcase itsbreakthroughs in PoY/dTY, FdY and IdYfilament spinning and texturing, as well as themanufacture of monofilaments. oerlikon Neumagwill concentrate on its bCF, staple fibre andnonwovens core competencies and present allinterested visitors with the latest productdevelopments by means of its virtual realitytechnology in the 3d showrooms. “In a marketthat is proving to be increasingly difficult, we willset new trends with our innovations and onceagain change the markets,” said andréWissenberg, head of marketing, corporatecommunications and public affairs.

German knitting solutions specialist Stoll is setto showcase new possibilities with its flat knittingtechnology. In addition to existing machines fromits current product range, some new models will beintroduced, including the ultra-flexible CmS adFrange. Germany's Trützschler's spinning division isexpected to display processes and solutionsdesigned to improve efficiency. one such is theSuperlap, which requires less personnel, as well asthe Toyota-Trützschler comber. The company'snonwovens division will display manufacturingprocesses, especially web bonding. Innovations inspunlacing, needling and thermal/chemicalbonding will be on display. The modular aquaJet isa patented drying process for the thermobonder,which Trützschler is likely to display at the show.

as an offshoot of textile and dye, ITma willalso witness the launch of new technologies tosupport the practices. France’s velvet Jet is set tounveil new solutions for digital textile printing thatcould especially come in handy for garmentmanufacturers. Santex aG Switzerland brandCavitec will be showing its new CavImeLT P+Pstreamlined machine – designed to be precise,achieve high production and cost effectiveness inhotmelt coating and laminating through therotogravure system. Konica minolta will launchthe Nassenger SP-1, a high-productivity, high-resolution inkjet textile printer that employs asingle pass system, characterised by high speed,resolution and productivity. Prior to the show, thecompany is providing demos at its Italian salessubsidiary this month on.

Show space was booked out a year ago, leadingto the organisers having to add another hall forexhibitors. Charles beauduin, president ofCemaTeX, the european Committee of Textilemachinery manufacturers, which owns ITma,said, “The demand for space has been very strong.

The eleventh hall will house the fibre and yarn,research and education, colourants and chemicals,software and recycling sectors. This expansion isexcellent news for exhibitors and visitors alike.”

innovation at itmAInnovation is a major theme at the show asexhibitors are making a beeline to showcase theircreative best. The ITma 2015 research &Innovation Pavilion will provide research andhigher education institutes with a platform topromote collaboration among companies, researchcentres and universities, highlight education andtraining opportunities, and showcase the latestprojects. eligible candidates can apply for theCemaTeX research and Innovation Grant. TheITma Sustainable Innovation award will awardthose who have made outstanding contributions tothe industry.

World textile summit This is a one-day event featuring textile businessleaders from companies such as Nike, adidas andeverest, as well as a sector expert from globalconsultancy major mcKinsey & Company.Presentations by the speakers will pave the wayfor interactive discussions on the future of thetextile industry.

textile colourant and chemicalLeaders ForumTextile Colourant and Chemical Leaders Forumwill be held on 14 November 2015, and follows theITma objective to discuss the relevance ofdyestuffs and colourants in the industry.

The 18th edition of the event, ITma 2019 will beheld in barcelona, Spain from 20 - 26 June 2019,at the Fira de barcelona exhibition centre. �

A packed agenda for ITMA 2015


itmA 2015

At ITMA 2011, there were 1,355 exhibitors from 45 countries, with 100,067 visitors from 140 countries. There were 700 attendees that attended the conferences, said organisers.


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CEMATEX, the owner of ITMA, is anticipating a huge turnout and new innovations at ITMA 2015, inaddition to special focus on sustainable textiles. CEMATEX president Charles Beauduin speaks to Africa& Middle East Textiles ahead of the show

How is the response to ITMA this year?The response from the industry has been verypositive; based on the number of exhibitors andexhibition size, the upcoming exhibition will bebigger than its 2011 showcase. More than 95 percent of the exhibition space had been booked whenspace application closed in July last year. Due tooverwhelming response, an 11th hall was added toaccommodate the strong demand. Currently, wehave more than 1,500 exhibitors from around 40countries. They will be showcasing their latestinnovations over 200,000 sqm of the Fiera MilanoRho fairgrounds.We have also been approached by many

industry leaders to organise or co-locateknowledge-sharing and networking activities.These include the World Textile Summit (13November), Textile Colourant and ChemicalLeaders Forum (14 November), Digital TextileConference (15 November) and NonwovensForum (16 November). EURATEX will be holdingits congress alongside ITMA.In addition, we have also secured support from

some 150 industry associations, many of which willbe organising visiting delegations to ITMA.Industry associations such the United States FashionIndustry Association and the Better Cotton Initiative(BCI) are organising events for the benefit of theirmembers and ITMA visitors. Hence, the industrycan expect a vibrant marketplace at ITMA 2015.

The floor space was sold out rather early on -can you tell us about the different kinds ofexhibitors we can see this year and what toexpect from the show?As the world’s most established integrated textileand garment manufacturing exhibition, theexhibitors at ITMA will showcase technologies,products and services that encompass the entireproduction chain. There is emphasis on traditionalsectors, such as spinning, weaving and finishing.Visitors can also look forward to sourcing the latestdigital printing solutions at the expanded anddedicated printing chapter, as well as a wide arrayof fibre and yarn. More importantly, at ITMA 2015, we can expect

to see more exhibitors showcasing eco-friendlytechnologies and focusing on responsible sourcing asthe industry collectively pushes towards sustainablesolutions. Many of the leading manufacturers,especially those from CEMATEX countries, arelaunching new or enhanced products.

How do you view Africa as a major apparel andtextile exporter?Africa is increasingly being seen as the next textilemanufacturing and exporting hub as labour andother costs of doing business in Asia rise. Africa isalso a youthful continent with a median age ofaround 19 years, offering a huge trainable labourpool. As a predominantly agricultural continentwith large areas of land suitable for cottonplantations and cattle farming, the potential forAfrica to develop downstream textile and apparelproducts from cotton and leather is very high.The African Growth and Opportunity Act

(AGOA) has had a considerable impact on sub-Saharan Africa’s clothing industry and is a key partof the reason that textile plants have popped upacross the region. The pull factor is stronger incountries with better political stability, such asEthiopia. Investments have been flowing into thecountry from India, Turkey, China, Bangladeshand South Korea. It is also where global retailerH&M began production in 2013.

What do you think are the main problems in theAfrican textile industry?Political instability, corruption and security issues insome of the countries have adversely affected theinvestment climate. While the cost of doing businessis still very low in Africa, productivity – in terms ofboth manual labour and machinery – remains low.Another challenge is transport logistics. While

Africa is geographically closer to Europe than Chinaor India, many African countries lack the transportinfrastructure to serve the industry’s needs.

In addition, can you share some insights on theMiddle East textile production market?Among the countries with traditionally strongtextile sectors such as Egypt, Iran, Israel, Jordanand Syria, Iran remains one of the few bright spotsfor textile manufacturing in the Middle East. With economic sanctions to be lifted against

Iran in the near future, Iranian companies will havethe added option of investing in non-Asianmanufacturing technologies. Coupled with theirlarge and youthful labour pool, a governmentcommitted to stimulate textile industry exports,and the availability of local raw materials neededin the production of textiles and handmade carpets,textile production in Iran looks set to grow. The UAE, while not traditionally a major textile

producer, may see growth in its textile printingsector. Growth is likely to be driven by digitalprinting technologies, which are more labourefficient as compared to traditional screen printing.This is particularly strategic for the UAE wherelabour costs are higher than many of its neighboursand other traditional production hubs. Unfortunately, the continued political turmoil in

Egypt and the recent ban on imported cotton for anindefinite period does not bode well for theEgyptian textile production market. The ongoing

Sustainability to be the highlight of ITMA 2015


ITMA 2015

Charles Beauduin,president of CEMATEX



Syrian civil war has devastated their textileindustry, with factories significantly reducing oreven stopping production, and sanctions limitingtheir accessibility to key markets.

This year, what trends can we witness in termsof textile dominance and why?Sustainability will be a key concern of the textileand garment making industry. Hence, eco-conscious textiles will be one of the key trends.Today’s consumer is connected and increasinglyconcerned about our impact on the environment.As such, there is a need for fashion brands and theirsuppliers to adhere to environmental, sustainableand socially acceptable levels of conduct throughthe entire supply chain, from raw materials to thefinished product. Smart textiles and wearable technology is

another growing trend. Moving beyond justperformance enhancing textiles, the smart textilesof the future integrate fashion and technology in aninvisible way. Experts predict that future wearablescould track and record health and fitness statistics,clean themselves of stains and odours whenexposed to sunlight, and even capture hapticfeedback to control smart devices. Riding on these global trends, ITMA 2015 will

feature innovative solutions for the manufacture oftechnical textiles and advanced nonwovens. Therewill also be a greater focus on sustainable printingtechnologies and raw materials, sustainabilitystandards & certification and technologies forresponsible manufacturing.

What kind of machinery can visitors expect tosee at ITMA?ITMA 2015 will showcase cutting-edge andsustainable manufacturing technologies. Being aonce-in-four-years event, many of our exhibitorsuse ITMA as a launch-pad for their latestmachinery. Hence, visitors can look forward toexploring the newest solutions that will helpincrease their competitive edge. As a one-stop sourcing platform, visitors can

also expect to source machinery that caters to theentire value chain, from spinning to winding,weaving to knitting, dyeing, printing and finishingto logistics, and more. Many of the exhibitors willbe displaying machinery with green features, aswell as eco-friendly processes and products. Moreimportantly, visitors will be able to see livedemonstration of machinery.

Can you tell us something about the ITMASustainable Innovation Award 2015?CEMATEX launched the ITMA SustainableInnovation Award as part of its ongoing efforts toencourage and recognise outstanding industrymembers and postgraduate students for theircontributions to the sustainable development of theglobal textile and garment industry. The Awardcategories are Industry Excellence Award,Research & Innovation Excellence Award.The panel of judges for the Industry Excellence

Award category include me, along with Prof.

Dominique C. Adolphe, president of AUTEX andvice-president of the European TechnologyPlatform for the Future of Textiles and Clothing;Josué Christiano Gomes Da Silva, president of theInternational Textile Manufacturers Federation(ITMF); John Mowbray, founder of MCL Global;and Serge Piolat, president of the EuropeanApparel and Textile Confederation (EURATEX). The panel of judges for the Research &

Innovation Excellence Award are Dr. Jeroen Vits,secretary general of Belgian Textile MachineryAssociation (SYMATEX); Prof. Vladan Koncar,head of research ENSAIT and director of GEMTEXLaboratory (GEMTEX & ENSAIT); Prof. ThomasGries, director of the Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA)of RWTH Aachen University; Dr. Takeshi Kikutani,professor for the department of organic andpolymeric materials at the Graduate School ofScience and Engineering of Tokyo Institute ofTechnology; and Prof. Behnam Pourdeyhimi,director of the Nonwovens Institute (NCSU). The winners will be unveiled at the ITMA 2015

gala dinner.

Why do you want to emphasise on innovation intextiles?ITMA has been a trendsetting showcase of excitinginnovations since 1951. Innovation helps ensure theindustry’s sustainability and competitiveness. Intoday’s marketplace, competing based on price aloneis not enough. Consumers demand for more; theywant things faster, multi-functional and transparencyin the production chain. The drive towardssustainability in the entire textile and garment valuechain is increasingly integrated with enlightenedbusiness practices, and innovative technology holdsthe key to environmental sustainability. ITMA 2015 in particular will focus on innovations

that help ensure a sustainable manufacturing value

chain, hence the theme ‘Master the Art of SustainableInnovation’. Initiatives such as the launch of theITMA Sustainable Innovation Award and rebrandingof the Research & Education Pavilion to Researchand Innovation Pavilion. The Speaker’s Platform atthe pavilion will feature many presentations on thetheme of sustainable innovation.

How can you mitigate the problem of pollutioncaused by textile machinery?Technological innovations can go a long way inmitigating the main environmental issues faced bythe textile and garment industry, particularly in thedyeing and finishing sectors. For example, in conventional textile dyeing, a

huge amount of water is needed to process akilogram of fabric. This means huge amounts ofwaste water that has to be disposed of is produced.New waterless dyeing technology uses recycledCO2 gas instead of water to permeate textiles withdyes, significantly reducing the amount of wastewater produced and that could potentially savehuge amounts of both water and energy. While waterless dyeing is ideal, until

widespread adoption becomes a reality, machinerywith water – and energy-saving features are alsoinstrumental in reducing the amount of waste waterproduced and emissions of pollutants resultingfrom energy use. Some examples include dyeingmachines with adjustable liquor levels based on thetype and quantity of textiles used, and those that re-circulate water used in one process for another.In addition to machinery with eco-friendly

features, advanced dyestuffs with newformulations requiring less water and even dyesbased on biosynthetics derived from agriculturalwaste products such as almond shells and rosemaryleaves can also help reduce the environmentalimpact of the industry. �

ITMA 2015

Conventional dyeing produces large amounts ofwaste water. (Photo: Rehan Qureshi/Shutterstock)


COUNTERFEITING IS AN international threat,posing a significant challenge to many

industries. Commercial loss is not the onlyrepercussion of counterfeit products. Brand ownersalso face diminished integrity of their brand, anintegrity that they have worked hard to build.Counterfeiting can leave a company open to loss ofsales, product liability issues and destruction of brandconfidence due to inferior imitations. Counterfeitingcontinues to present global brand leaders with hugechallenges. There is no single solution; differentindustries with different types of products needdifferent solutions and there are products in themarket which can help fight this threat.Tailorlux GmbH from Germany develops and

produces inorganic phosphors, also known as

luminescent pigments that can shift, focus, absorb orscatter the spectrum of light. Their productprotection and anti-counterfeiting system, Tailor-Safe, offers a legally valid authentication of aproduct marker and thus of the authenticity of aproduct, comparable to a fingerprint or DNAanalysis, guaranteeing that users can defend theirpatent, brand, usage or design rights in court.A tiny amount of inorganic and safe luminescent

pigments, invisible to the naked eye, are integratedinto the body or on the surface of the product to beprotected. The pigments are based on a specialselection of rare earth elements which are chemicallyinert, acid-proof and heat-resistant up to temperaturesof 1,700°C. Invisible to the naked eye, the tamper-proof markers produce a pattern of light that is as

unique as a fingerprint and can be authenticatedreliably even after fire damage, wear and tear orapparent destruction of the product. Properties of theintegrated pigments are digitised, encoded and storedas a data file. The marker stores no data and is safefrom all external electronic interference.Combining different pigments allows Tailor-Safe

to apply over 300bn unique security pigments. Ahandheld spectrometer, the size of a common mobilephone, can easily authenticate a security pigment.Simple in-line sensors integrated in industrialprocesses allow up to 10,000 individualmeasurements to be taken in seconds.The minute concentration of pigments in the

finished product means that the marker has no effecton the material properties of the product. Producers ofhigh-tech fabrics that are used in products likepipelines, rotor blades or machine parts can protecttheir products with Tailor-Safe while premiumbranded clothing can integrate the security pigmentsin the logo stitching.DNA Technologies from Canada constructs

unique, synthetic DNA sequences that can encodecompany and product-specific information intoinks, dyes and resins to produce the security markerDNA Matrix. It enables products to be individuallycoded and tracked globally, at all times frommanufacturing to retail.The company’s SmartDye derives from research

by PhotoSecure, a brand protection company atBoston University’s Photonics Centre. PhotoSecure’sresearch into photoluminescence allows each inkbatch to be customised with unique fluorescing traitswhich include the frequency of light needed toactivate them, the manner in which their fluorescencefades when that stimulus is removed, the exact colourof the fluorescence and other properties which can bedetected and measured by scanners. These variablesproduce a machine-readable signature thatdistinguishes between genuine and counterfeit items.SmartDye-based marking materials are available

as dyes, inks and thin films. Encoded data, like UPCor 2D barcodes, can be part of the mark’s physicalconfiguration, allowing for tracking information tobe put on the product secretly, to be read only by aproperly configured scanner.The addition of covert security features to overt

security measures of a hologram or hot stamp foiladds a layer of undetectable security that is extremelydifficult to identify or replicate. DNA Technologieshas developed the DNA Multimatrix Hologram thatincorporates DNA taggants into holographic images.These new holographic security features combine

Tackling thecounterfeiting menacein the textiles industry


Counterfeit products are openly sold in flea markets the world over. (Photo: David Shankbone/Wikimedia Commons)

Africa and the Middle EastAPPAREL

As counterfeiting becomes more complicated and technologicallyadvanced, companies are coming up with innovative ways to tackle theproblem that is more than just a commercial issue. Niki Tait brings usthe latest developments from the anti-counterfeit world.

S07 AFTEX 2 2015 - Anticounterfeit Niki Tait_Layout 1 18/09/2015 10:55

benefits of immediate visual recognition, known andappreciated by the end user/consumer, while theholographic image prevents counterfeiting of articlesby any digital or traditional printing equipment.Detection of the covert security feature is enabled

by a simple reader that relies on spectrum analysis ofthe specially designed holographic feature. Scannersare small portable devices, for recording both theresponse profile of each authentic secure mark andany encoded data the mark may contain. Lightweightand compact, handheld scanners can be carriedunobtrusively into a retail location and used to checkitems on the shelves for DNA Matrix marks. Finalconfirmation of the DNA Matrix is performed in anauthorised laboratory, to match the specific DNAsequence.The DNA Matrix has recently been incorporated

into synthetic fibres to further enhance protectionagainst counterfeiting, by blending with the rawmaterial used to create sewing threads. The threadsare designed for use in the manufacture of appareland footwear to help determine their authenticity.Coats recently joined forces with VTT Holdings, a

specialist in high-level security technology fortextiles, garments, bags and footwear, to develop apioneering brand protection solution to fightcounterfeiting and protect value. The solution isCoats Verifi, a technology that allows spot validationby allocating branded products a unique code whichis incorporated into the sewing thread used in theproduction process. Invisible to the naked eye, eachcode can only be detected using a special hand-heldreading device.The technology is flexible and can be seamlessly

incorporated into the thread without compromising itstechnical specifications, colour or performance. TheCoats Verifi logistics team integrates the technologyinto the supply of sewing thread to manufacturers, andmonitors and tracks goods as they move through thesupply chain. It is a solution that can prevent tamperedorders, provide security at Customs clearance andvalidate the authenticity of brands within supplywarehouses. It also offers verification at points of sale,so can be used to establish the origin of retailmerchandise and returned goods.

Italian Manifattura Italiana Cucirini SpA is alsounderstood to be developing an anti-counterfeitthread, while American A&E is developing a specialthread for sewing the binding on passports to helpprevent counterfeiting. This is a polyester thread witha special built-in dye which is difficult to apply andthus difficult to duplicate. It contains a florescentyellow which only shows up under a particular ultraviolet light.GSI offers two anti-counterfeit measures. For its

flexo and screen printed label products, it can apply asecurity thread as narrow as .0625 inches,permanently micro-etched with a company’s name orcoded information in fonts as small as .01325 inches.According to the company, this thread is used ingovernment currencies around the world. Along withthis overt preventive measure, GSI also offers acovert measure, utilising an organic phosphor mixedwith its inks or varnishes and printed on a label. Thismark, or legend, is invisible to the naked eye, butwhen exposed to a reader, it will light up and/or causethe reader to emit an audible tone. These twotechnologies can also be combined to provide amulti-level solution.Toppan’s anti-counterfeit solutions are developed

around four main principles. Being high security, theymust be as difficult as possible to forge or simulate.For easy visual judgement, one should be able toverify the document without the need for specialequipment in most cases. A covert element should beincluded, to be verified with a simple tool. Lastly, itshould be possible to detect when an anti-counterfeitsolution has been tampered with, through preventionof re-labelling or repacking.The company’s solutions tend to be customised to

suit the needs of the customer and the item ontowhich they are to be applied. For example, Toppancan utilise holographic technology used forbanknotes and passports in order to offer customers aholographic label with superior quality in terms ofboth appearance and security. Covert elements can beadded to these labels, such as latent images which areonly visible with a special detector. Labels can bemade to adhere to a huge range of substrates and canbe made tamper evident in order to prevent reuse.Toppan also claims to have developed the world’s

first combined hologram and RFID tag, the RFIDCrystagram, using the metal area of the hologram asan antenna for the tag. This product was initiallydeveloped using a Hitachi Mu-chip but is nowoffered in a UHF version. The Crystagram can beused to check authenticity while the RFID can beused for track and trace. There is some flexibility indesign, meaning that the label can enhance the brandimage, not detract from it like a traditional RFID tag.If someone tries to remove the label, the Crystagramwill break up, disabling the RFID tag.Because some items don’t have a flat surface or

don’t have enough area on which to attach a label,security ink can be a good solution. Toppan’ssecurity inks all contain covert security elementswhich require some sort of basic tool forauthentication. The inks, available for a wide rangeof substrates and operating conditions, could be usedto print a serial or model number.

AlpVision concentrates on invisible digitaltechnologies for product authentication andcounterfeit protection. Its digital solutions areapplicable to a wide variety of items, includingpackaging and labelling, moulded products and high-value documents. The company has started the firstpilot projects of its Fingerprint technology in thefootwear sector to authenticate moulded products, atechnology which may have implications throughoutother industries that use technical textiles. TheFingerprint system relies on scanning a specific areaof a product and comparing the digital imageproduced with images of the original product taken atthe time of manufacture. Importantly, it does notrequire the addition of any marker or taggant. Aregular smartphone equipped with AlpVision’sproduct authentication app can be used to verifyproducts.Norwegian security label specialist Thinfilm

Electronics specialises in printed electronics andclaims to be the first company to commercialiseprinted rewritable memory technology. Thecompany's first commercial application for thetechnology will be brand protection. Thinfilm CEODavor Sutija estimates that the global market for anti-counterfeiting, brand protection and securitypackaging technologies reached US$79bn in 2014,up from US$52bn in 2009, as industries tried to stemloss of revenues to counterfeiting, which areestimated at US$600bn a year. Thinfilm sees thegreatest opportunity for its security labels in theclothing, electrical devices and consumer goodscategories. With a price of about US$0.02 per unit,these labels are similarly priced as but have bettersecurity features than holograms which represent aUS$5bn global market.The company's labels require the use of a simple,

dedicated device which can read and write to thememory in the printed electronic component. Theunique signature is created by both digital andanalogue elements, such as variations in the thicknessof the polymer used in the label, making replicationdifficult. Thinfilm estimates that the reader for itslabels could be made for as little as about US$2.Scientists from the National Physical Laboratory

(NPL) in the UK are developing a technique calledterahertz time-domain spectroscopy to fight textilecounterfeiting. The approach uses a beam of terahertzradiation, a band of electromagnetic radiation thatfalls between microwaves and infrared light, torecord a distinctive spectral pattern for fabric items.The pattern of beam scattering and absorptiongenerated by the textile under test provides a uniquesignature which could be used to indicate whether ornot the item is genuine or counterfeit, say thescientists. Research examined fabrics made fromwool, cotton, linen, silk and mixed fibres, all of whichdemonstrated distinct terahertz transmissionproperties. The technique could clearly distinguishbetween fabrics that looked and felt similar but haddifferent compositions, according to NPLresearchers. For example, the technique could tell thedifference between plain wool and the moreexpensive merino wool, as well as between naturaland synthetic silk. �


COUNTERING COUNTERFEITS

Dilo Machines GmbH ..................................11

Erhardt + Leimer GmbH ................................5

Italian Trade Commission ..............................2

Loepfe Brothers Ltd. ....................................24

MP International Pte. Ltd. (ITMA 2015)......17

Oerlikon Textiile GmbH & Co KG ................7

Rieter Machine Works Ltd..............................9

Saurer Management AG................................21

Staubli International AG ..............................23

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africa & middle east textiles issue 2 2015

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