advent treesiterepository.s3.amazonaws.com/4812/6_charming... · heirloom-quality christmas...

Dear Primitive Stitcher,

Christmases growing up in the Falcsik household were always special, not only because it was a time for our family to come together in celebration, but it was also our time we spent preparing for it. Mom and “us girls” would spend weeks creating our own one-of-a-kind holiday decorations. Those are some of our best memories. And it’s a tradition that is carried on even today!

Now you can start your own family traditions with the special projects in this one-of-a-kind collection of heirloom-quality Christmas Projects. We handpicked some of our favorite projects from Primitive Quilts and Projects archives that are sure to become treasured family heirlooms in your own family for generations to come.

We wish you and your family happy stitching…and the best holiday season ever!

Judy, Jeni and Gretchen

©2015-2016 Homespun Media LLC

Advent TreeDesigned by Lynda Hall of Primitive Pieces by LyndaFinished size: 33” x 46¼”

I still believe in Santa Claus, and counting down the days to his much-anticipated arrival is all part of the holiday fun for our family. Celebrate this magical countdown with my primitive tree, which harbors a hidden bonus among the ornaments. During the merry month of December, turn over one ornament each day, and a special holiday message will gradually appear.

Material Requirements¼ yard each of 4 different light/tan prints for background and 2nd border1⁄3 yard different light/tan print than above for background and 2nd

border 1⁄8 yard each of 7 green prints (including one stripe) for tree branches, trunk, and 1st border2—3” x 4” black star prints for outer border rectangles 7” x 14” gold plaid wool for star front and back10” x 20” each of green and red wool for ornament circles (or assorted scraps to equal this amount) 10” x 15” black wool for numbers and letters 7” x 9” brown wool for bucket½ yard red plaid for outer border1½ yards fabric of your choice for backing3⁄8 yard black stripe for bindingRed, green, brown, and black wool threadNo. 8 black perle cotton

Cutting InstructionsLabel the light/tan print A, B, C, D, and E fabrics (E is the 1⁄3 yard piece).

From Fabric A, cut:•1—4½” x 12” rectangle and label it A-1 •2—7” x 13” rectangles and label them

A-2 and A-3

From Fabric B, cut:•1—4½” x 13” rectangle and label it B-1 •1—4¾” x 19½” rectangle and label it

B-2

From Fabric C, cut:•1—7” x 12” rectangle and label it C-1•1—7” x 13” rectangle and label it C-2•1—4¾” x 5½” rectangle and label it C-3 From Fabric D, cut:•1—7” x 13” rectangle and label it D-1•1—7” x 11½” rectangle and label it D-2

From Fabric E, cut:•1—9” x 13” rectangle and label it E-1•1—11” x 13” rectangle and label it E-2

Project Level of Difficulty

Intermediate

From the leftover light/tan prints, cut as many 1”-wide strips as possible for 2nd border

From each of 2 green prints (not stripe), cut:•1—1½” strip the width of fabric for tree

branches. Then sub-cut that strip into a 1½” x 13” strip

From each of 2 other green prints (not stripe), cut:•1—1¾” strip the width of fabric for tree

branches. Then sub-cut that strip into a 1¾” x 13” strip

From each of the 3 remaining green prints (including stripe), cut:•1—2” strip the width of fabric. Then sub-cut

that strip into 1—2” x 28” strip from green stripe for tree trunk and 1—2” x 13” strip from the remaining two green prints for tree branches

From the leftover green prints, cut as many 1½”-wide strips as possible for 1st border

From red plaid, cut:•2—3” strips the width of fabric for

outer border•2—4” strips the width of fabric for

outer border

From black stripe, cut:•5—2½” strips the width of fabric

for binding

From green, red, gold plaid, brown, and black wool, cut the circles, star, and bucket the number of times noted in the template insert.

Sewing InstructionsQuilt Center 1. Referring to the following

diagram for placement, lay out the labeled light/tan rectangles and green strips. IMPORTANT

NOTE: The measurements listed in the following diagram are for marking down from the previous seam, NOT for cutting the pieces before they are sewn together. For example, once you sew the A-2 segment to the previous 1½”-wide green strip, you will mark the noted measurements down from that seam, then cut A-2 to those measurements.

2. Referring to the following diagram, sew together an A-1 and B-2 unit to create the top row of the quilt center. Set it aside for now.

3. Referring to the previous diagram, sew together a C-3 and B-2 unit to create the bottom row of the quilt center. Set it aside for now.

4. Mark C-1 with a pencil from the top raw edge down at 5¼” on the left side and 6½”

Quilt Center Assembly Diagram

on the right side. Connect the marks with a ruler and cut the bottom angle.

5. With right sides together, place a 1½”-wide green print strip on the angled bottom of C-1, leaving excess on both sides. Then sew a ¼” seam, open, and press. Trim off the excess green strip, lining it up with the sides of C-1.

6. Sew A-2 to the bottom of the green strip, leaving excess on both sides. Then open and press. Trim off the excess, lining it up with the sides of the other two pieces. You will do this after each step.

7. Mark A-2 from the seam down at 6” on the left side and 4¾” on the right side. Then connect the marks with a ruler and cut the bottom angle.

8. With right sides together, sew a 1¾”-wide green print strip to the bottom angle of A-2, leaving excess on both sides. Then open, press and trim off the excess green strip, lining it up with the sides of A-2.

9. Sew D-1 to the green strip at the bottom of the unit, leaving excess on both sides. Open, press, and trim off the excess fabric as in the previous steps.

10. Mark D-1 from the seam down at 6½” on the left side and 5½” on the right side. Connect the marks with the ruler and cut the bottom angle.

11. Sew a 2”-wide green print strip to the bottom of D-1, leaving excess on both sides. Open, press, and trim off excess as in the previous steps.

12. Mark E-1 from the seam down at 6½” on the left side and 7½” on the right side. Connect the marks with a ruler and cut on the line. Press and trim. The completed unit should look like the following diagram.

13. Referring to the diagram on page 20, create the right side of the tree by sewing together the D-2, A-3, C-2, and E-2 units and the 1½”-, 1¾”-, and 2”-wide strips in the same fashion you did for the left side of the tree in the previous steps.

14. With right sides together, sew the 2”-wide green stripe strip to the right side of unit from step 11. Open and press. With right sides together, sew the finished unit from step 12 to the other side of the green stripe strip. Open and press.

15. Referring to the diagram on page 20 for placement, sew the top and bottom units from steps 2 and 3 to the unit from the previous step. Open and press to complete the quilt center, which should measure 24½” x 34¾”.

Borders 1. Measure your quilt center from top to

bottom, then sew the various 1½”-wide green print strips, end to end, to make two strips that match that measurement. Referring to the quilt assembly diagram on page 22, sew these two 1st border strips to the sides of the quilt center, then press.

2. Measure your quilt top from side to side, including the side borders, then sew the remaining 1½”-wide green print strips, end to end, to make two strips that match that measurement. Referring to the quilt assembly diagram,

sew these two 1st border strips to the top and bottom of your quilt top, then press.

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the 1”-wide light/tan print 2nd border strips.

4. Measure your quilt top from side to side, then cut two of the 3”-wide red plaid strips to match that measurement. Referring to the quilt assembly diagram, sew these two outer border strips to the top and bottom of the quilt top, then press.

5. Sew a 3” x 4” black star rectangle to one end of a 4”-wide red plaid strip. Measure your quilt top from top to bottom, then cut that strip to match that measurement. Repeat to make another side border strip. Referring to

the quilt assembly diagram, sew these two outer border strips to the sides of the quilt top, being careful to make sure one black star print rectangle is in the top right corner and one is the in bottom left corner. Press.

Sandwich the quilt top, batting, and backing; baste. Quilt as desired, then bind. Wash it before adding the ornaments.

Ornaments, Star, and Bucket1. Match each red circle with a green circle

(these will be sewn back to back). Referring to the diagram on page 24, lay the circles out in three rows, greens above the reds,

Quilt Assembly Diagram

and place the numbers and letters on them. Some will be plain unless you choose to decorate them with your own wintery motifs, such as a bell, snowman, or snowflake (You will need extra wool yardage than listed in the materials list for any additional motifs you choose to add). Whipstitch the letters and numbers to the respective circles with matching wool thread.

2. After all the circles have been paired up, sew around their perimeters with a blanket stitch in a color that matches the wool.

3. Using perle cotton, tie a knot in one end and make a small stitch on your background piece, then come up through the back of your circle approximately ½” in from the outer edge and make a knot that is loose enough that you will be able to turn your circle over as the days pass.

4. Whipstitch the number 25 at the top of your star. Using brown wool thread, whipstitch the brown wool bucket in place, concealing the end of the trunk. Your advent calendar is now ready for the Christmas countdown. As you turn your circles over, “Merry Christmas” will gradually appear. I hope you enjoy counting down the days until Santa’s arrival.

Contact InformationFor more information on Lynda’s designs, contact her at 4638 W. Kelly Park Road, Apopka, Florida 32712; 407-920-9243; or www.primitivepiecesbylynda.com.

A self-taught painter with no formal training or degrees, Lynda Hall was introduced to quilting in 1992 by her sister-in-law. Because working with color is much the same whether painting or quilting, learning a new craft wasn’t a leap for Lynda. With the encouragement of a friend, she started designing her own patterns in 2000. Two years later, Primitive Pieces by Lynda was born. Since then, she has designed 74 quilt patterns and published two books. Inspired by family members or memories, her designs are scrappy in nature and freeform in style with no inset seams. Lynda and her husband Curtis have been married 42 years and live in Apopka, Florida. They have two sons, two daughters-in-law, two granddaughters, and one new grandson.

Advent Tree

Lynda Hall

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Winter 2012

Permission is granted to photocopythis page for personal use only.

Holly Table Runner

This quick and easy tabletop accent is the perfect project for hectic holiday schedules. To simplify the process, I used a pre-purchased quilted table runner, giving you more time to dress it up with wool appliqué, decorative

stitches, buttons, and rick-rack.

Designed by Gloria Parsons of Olde Green Cupboard DesignsFinished Size: 12” x 72”

Material Requirements12” x 72” pre-quilted tan table runner (Gloria purchased hers at Walmart)Scraps of wool in golds (stars), brown plaid (stem), reds (berries) and greens (leaves) 49—3⁄8”-diameter red buttons (available in bulk at craft stores)Perle cotton No. 12 in green, brown, gold, and red14” x 74” fabric of your choice for backing5 yards of 5⁄8”-wide red rick-rack 1 yard Heat-N-Bond Lite adhesiveFabric glueAppliqué pinsMonofilament clear thread

Wool Preparation 1. Using the templates in the template insert, trace the 16 leaves, 24 berries, 10 stars, and six stems onto Heat-N-Bond Lite adhesive. 2. Cut out each template, leaving an 1⁄8”-¼” beyond the drawn line. 3. To remove any wrinkles, press the wool. 4. With a dry iron on high heat, press the templates to the wools, then let them cool. 5. Cut out the leaves, berries, stars, and stems on the drawn line. 6. Remove the paper from the back of each piece.

Sewing InstructionsWool Appliqué1. With red perle cotton, sew a buttonhole stitch by hand around the entire table runner on the second curved row from the outside.

If you purchased a runner that differs from Gloria’s or decided to make your own, simply adapt the buttonhole stitch design to complement your particular pre-

quilted design. 2. Find the center of the table runner on the diamond grid section and mark it with a straight pin on each end.3. Referring to the photo on page 68-69 for placement, place the stem piece on each end.4. Referring to the photo for placement, position the leaves and berries on the table runner. Press them with an iron and steam. Then let cool. Test the edges of each piece to make sure all have adhered to the background.5. Sew a buttonhole stitch around each wool shape using a matching color of perle cotton.

Embellishments1. Using red perle cotton, sew a button at the dip of each outside curve of the red buttonhole stitching.2. Using clear monofilament thread in your sewing machine needle and tan thread in your bobbin, attach the red rick-rack to the outside edge of your table runner. Position it under the table runner edge so that only half


Beginner

of it extends beyond the edge. Then stitch it down on the closest row of pre-existing quilting to catch the edge of the rick-rack on the table runner’s underside. Go slowly around the corners. At the end, overlap the rick-rack approximately an inch, then backstitch to secure. Cut off the remaining rick-rack. To make the rick-rack more stable, you can hand-stitch it to the front binding, taking small stitches as though you are appliquéing.

Completing the table runner1. Cut and piece the backing fabric so itmeasures a minimum of 14” x 74”. Then pressthe seam open.2. Using temporary fabric adhesive, layer thebacking with the table runner, wrong sidestogether. Smooth it to remove any wrinkles orpuckering.3. Using a walking foot and monofilamentthread, stitch around the entire perimeter ofthe pre-existing quilted line that surrounds thediamond shapes.4. Using monofilament thread, stitch aroundthe entire perimeter of the second row ofpre-existing straight quilted lines in the borderarea.5. Trim the backing edge to a ½”-3⁄4” past theappliquéd table runner’s edge. Flip the table runner over so the back is face up. Starting at a side, turn under the backing so the edge covers the rick-rack and ends at the edge of the table runner’s binding. Using a small appliqué stitch, sew the backing to the top of the table runner.

PRE-QUILTED POSSIBILITIESSearch shops for other pre-quilted accents to turn into fun projects. Placemats, for example, would be adorable. If you want to wash them, use cotton appliqué shapes instead of wool. For an even faster way to complete your project, sew a buttonhole or zig-zag stitch on your machine instead of doing it by hand. You’ll be surprised how many you can finish in one day!

Since she was a child, Gloria Parsons has had a needle or pencil in hand. She started quilting 15 years ago, using fabric as her palette and imagination as her pattern. She opened her quilt shop, the Olde Green Cupboard, in Jacksonville, Florida, to share her passion with others. Filled with primitives, shabby chic accents, antiques, cross-stitch supplies, and home décor, it quickly became a destination shop for quilters near and far and earned a spot in Quilt Sampler magazine’s list of top ten quilt shops. Gloria has since retired and closed the shop, although she continues to enjoy designing both patterns and fabric.

CONTACT INFORMATIONFor more information on Gloria’s designs or to order a kit for this project, which includes a pre-quilted table runner, wool, rick-rack, buttons, and perle cotton ($65, plus shipping), contact Olde Green Cupboard Designs at [email protected] or www.oldegreencupboard.com.

Holly Table Runner

Gloria Parsons

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Winter 2011


Jingle Designed by Becky Delsman and Kim Schueffner of Plays With Wool Designs Finished size: 8" x 16" (not including frame)


Beginner

The festive spirit of the season can be captured in a single

word—Jingle! Add a touch of whimsy to your holiday décor

with this quick and easy design enlightened by stitchery and

wool appliqué.

Material Requirements5" x 8" red felted wool for ornaments and letters5" x 8" green felted wool for ornaments and letters3" square gray felted wool for ornament topsFat quarter black cotton for appliqué backgroundSulky® 12-weight cotton thread in 1169, 1295, 1271 Valdani 100% Colorfast hand-dyed No. 12 perle cotton in P2 and P124½" x 24" double-stick fusible web Frame with 8" x 16" openingSize 24 chenille needleWhite Clover marking pen2½" circle template (optional)

Cutting InstructionsTemplates in the template insert have already been reversed and do not include a seam allowance. Because felted wool does not fray, there is no need to turn under the edges of the appliqué pieces.

1. Trace six circles, six ornament tops, and “JINGLE” letters onto the fusible web, then cut them out just outside of the drawn lines.

2. Place three fusible ornament shapes on the red wool and three on the green wool. Leave the fusible paper on the back of the ornament shapes.

3. Place the fusible “J”, “N”, “L” shapes on the green wool and the “I”, “G”, “E” shapes on the red wool.

4. Using steam, press the fusible shapes from steps 2 and 3 to the wool, then cut them out on the drawn lines.

Sewing Instructions1. Press the black cotton fabric.

2. Lay the frame, face down, on the black cotton fabric. Using the white Clover marking pen, trace around the opening of the frame. You will keep the design layout within this space.

3. Referring to the project photo on page 44 for placement, lay out the ornaments and place the wool letter shapes on the appropriate ornaments. Using steam, press those elements in place.

4. Referring to the project photo for placement, lay out the six ornaments and ornament tops on the black cotton fabric. Using steam, press those elements in place.

5. Using a blanket stitch, sew the wool shapes in place with coordinating colors of Sulky® threads 1169 and 1271.

6. Referring to the project photo for placement and using the white Clover marking pen, draw the lines for the evergreen branch and pine needles. Using a stem stitch, sew the evergreen branch in place with Valdani P12 thread.

7. Using a straight stitch, sew the pine needles in place with Valdani P2 thread.

8. Referring to the project photo for placement and using the white Clover marking pen, draw the ornament loop and hanging wire for each ornament. Using a stem stitch, sew those elements in place with Sulky® 1295 thread.

Blanket StitchBLANKET STITCH

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Stem Stitch

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The creative team of Plays With Wool Designs brings a dual flavor to their designs. BECKY DELSMAN resides on 15 country acres, while KIM SCHUEFFNER is a city girl. They met ten years ago at a school in Sheboygan, Wisconsin. Becky and Kim formed their company after they enthusiastically took a wool appliqué class. They now have more than 75 designs, including wool appliqué and mini quilts. Their motto is “Patterns for play with wool appliqué” because they love to play with wool.

Contact InformationFor more information on Plays With Wool Designs or to order a kit for this project, which includes all wools and the background fabric ($29 plus shipping; frame only is $24 plus shipping), contact Becky and Kim at 920/242-4006, 920/946-4713, or playswithwool.com.

9. Referring to the project photo for placement, sew French knots with Sulky® 1169 thread to make the red berries.

10. Frame and enjoy.

French KnotFRENCH KNOT

AB

Jingle

Plays With Wool Designs

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Templates have been reversed

Winter 2014


and Projects


Intermediate

Rudolph’'s Designed by Lisa CantlayFinished quilt size: 35" x 35" Finished block size: 12" x 12"

I love all things Christmas, especially reindeer. They make a cheerful focal point in this handy-sized throw that can double as a table topper.

Favorite Tree

Cutting InstructionsTemplates in the template insert do not include a seam allowance.

From tan linen, cut: 4—12½" squares for appliqué block backgrounds

From light green print, cut: 1—3½" square for center sashing cornerstone 4—4½" squares for border cornerstones

From dark green print, cut: 4—3½" x 12½" strips for sashing

From red print, cut: 4—4½" x 27½" strips for border

From assorted prints and solids listed in the Material Requirements, cut appliqué pieces in the template insert. For the tree trunks, you can use the template provided or make them with a ¼" bias tape maker.

Material Requirements¾ yard tan linen for appliqué block backgrounds ¼ yard dark green print for sashing strips and trees¼ yard light green print for center sashing cornerstone, border cornerstones, and trees2/3 yard red print for borderFat eighth white solid for snow1/8 yard light brown print for reindeer1/8 yard red solid for birds on treetops and stars around reindeer necks2" x WOF strip red print for bottom gift boxes2" x 14" cream/red print for top gift boxes and bird wings 2" x WOF strip brown print for tree trunks 41" square fabric of choice for backing1/3 yard green print for bindingDMC embroidery floss in 3781 (brown), 221 (red), 3011 (green), 3371 (dark brown), and Ecru

French KnotFRENCH KNOT

AB

A BC

DE

FG

Backstitch

1

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3

Satin Stitch

Sewing InstructionsBlocks 1. Referring to the project photo on page 83 for placement, lay out the appliqué pieces on the 4—12½" square tan linen block backgrounds. Using your favorite appliqué method, sew the pieces to the block backgrounds. Lisa used a blanket stitch and one strand of embroidery floss to match the respective appliqué pieces.

2. Referring to the templates and below stitch diagrams, stitch the following elements in place on the 4—12½" square block backgrounds with the following stitches and floss. Lisa used two strands for all her stitching. Reindeer antlers: Backstitch (3781) and Colonial knots (221) Reindeer eyes: Backstitch (3371) with French knot for the pupils and long stitches for the eyebrows Reindeer noses: Satin stitch (221) with a long stitch for the mouth Reindeer collars: Satin stitch (3781) Arm detail on reindeer: Backstitch (3781) Reindeer hooves: Satin stitch (3371) Bird eyes: Satin stitch (Ecru) with a long stitch for the eyebrow Gift box ribbons and bows: Backstitch (221) Vines: Backstitch (3011) Berries: Colonial knots (221)


A

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COLONIAL KNOTColonial Knot


Quilt Assembly1. Referring to the quilt assembly diagram, below, lay out the four appliquéd blocks, four dark green sashing strips, one light green center sashing cornerstone square, four red border strips, and four light green border cornerstone squares. Noting the orientation of the blocks, sew the four appliquéd blocks to the four dark green sashing strips and light green center sashing cornerstone square to create the quilt center.

2. Referring to the quilt assembly diagram, sew the 2—4½" x 27½" red print border strips to the sides of the quilt center.

3. Sew a 4½" light green square to each end of the remaining 2—4½" x 27½" red print border strips. Referring to the quilt assembly diagram, sew those two strips to the top and bottom of the quilt top.

4. Sandwich the quilt top, batting, and backing; baste. Quilt as desired, then bind.

LISA CANTLAY taught herself to quilt. She started her own long-arm quilting business in 2002 and has designed patterns since 2008. Her designs are mainly Christmas in nature because she loves that holiday but she also enjoys incorporating houses, flowers, and birds into her creations. Lisa lives in Melbourne, Australia, with her husband and their three-year-old daughter.

Contact InformationFor more information on Lisa’s designs, contact her at [email protected] or fignberrycreations.typepad.com. Find her on Facebook at facebook.com/pages/Fignberry-creations/381149198634291.

Rudolph’s Favorite Tree

Lisa Cantlay

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Winter 2014


and Projects


Lisa Cantlay

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Winter 2014


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Lisa Cantlay

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Winter 2014


and Projects

46 Winter 2013

The Tree LightingWith images of angels, trees, and stars in mind, this holiday quilt

came to life. Angels herald the holiday’s arrival with a special tree

lighting, and the trees in the forest are aglow with the light that

shines so brightly during this season of good cheer.

Designed, made, and quilted by Cathy Thomas of Little House Quilts

Finished size: 33" x 33"


Advanced

47primitivequiltsandprojects.com

Cutting InstructionsTemplates do not include a seam allowance and have been reversed for fusible web appliqué.

From purple print, cut: 8—2½" squares for Ohio Star blocks 16—1½" squares for Ohio Star blocks

From red print, cut: 10—2½" squares for Ohio Star blocks 20—1½" squares for Ohio Star blocks

Material RequirementsCottons:1/8 yard small purple print for Ohio Star block backgrounds1/8 yard small red print for Ohio Star block backgrounds1/4 yard small gold print for Ohio Stars1/4 yard small sage green print for setting squares, setting triangles, and corner triangles1/4 yard green plaid for inner border1 yard dark blue plaid flannel for outer border and binding1¼ yards fabric of choice for backing

Wools: Plaids, houndstooths, tweeds, and over-dyed wools may be used.

5" x 6" red wool for angel #13" x 3½" contrasting pattern/red wool for angel wing5" x 6" blue wool for angel #23" x 3½" contrasting pattern/blue wool for angel wing5" x 6" gold wool for angel #33" x 3½" contrasting pattern/gold wool for angel wing5" x 6" purple wool for angel #43" x 3½" contrasting pattern/purple wool for angel wing3" x 5½" pale solid peach wool for angel faces, hands, and feet5" x 15" green plaid wool #1 for six trees5" x 15" green plaid wool #2 for six trees5" x 10" green over-dyed wool for four trees2½" x 8" brown patterned wool #1 for six tree trunks (two medium; four short)3" x 8" brown patterned wool #2 for six tree trunks (two medium; four tall)2½" x 5" brown patterned wool #3 for four tree trunks (four medium)6" x 9" over-dyed gold wool for halos and stars

Additional Supplies:No. 8 or 12 perle cotton in shades that match appliqué pieces (Cathy used Valdani No. 12 variegated perle cotton)1 yard Heat’n Bond Lite Iron-On Adhesive

From gold print, cut: 18—2½" squares for Ohio Star blocks 9—1½" squares for Ohio Star blocks

From sage green print, cut: 4—3½" squares for setting blocks 2—5¾" squares, then cut each in half diagonally

twice for setting triangles 2—3¼" squares, then cut each in half diagonally once

for corner triangles

From dark blue plaid flannel, cut: 4—13/8" strips the width of fabric (For a small quilt like

this, Cathy prefers a single-thickness binding to reduce bulk and prevent wavy edges)

Border cutting and appliqué shape instructions are listed in the Sewing Instructions

Sewing InstructionsOhio Star Blocks 1. With a pencil, draw two diagonal lines from corner to corner on the wrong side of 2—2½" gold print squares. With right sides together, layer the two marked gold squares with 2—2½" red squares.

2. Sew a ¼" seam from both sides of one diagonal line on each of the squares.

3. Cut each square apart on the drawn line to yield a total of four half-square triangle units. Press the seam allowance toward the dark fabric.

4. With right sides together, layer two of the half-square triangle units with a red side against a gold side. Abut the seams and extend the pencil line across the red fabric. Sew a ¼" seam from both sides of the pencil line.

48 Winter 2013

5. Cut apart on the pencil line. You should now have four sets of star points that will make one star. TIP: To reduce bulk in this small block and flatten the seams, make a small clip through both layers of the seam allowance ¼" on each side of the seam intersection. The clips will be ½" apart. Press open the seam between the two clips to create a tiny four-patch. Press each of the remaining seam allowances toward the dark fabric.

6. Accuracy is essential when creating small blocks like these. Cathy has purposely oversized each small set of star points to allow for trimming them to the exact measurement. Using a bias square-up ruler or your own preferred method, trim each of the units so they measure 1½" square.

7. Referring to the following diagrams, sew together the star point units and 1½" red squares to complete an Ohio Star block, which should measure 3½" square.

8. Repeat steps 1–7 to make a total of five red Ohio Star blocks and four purple Ohio Star blocks.

Quilt Center1. Referring to the following diagram, lay out the nine Ohio Star blocks, four setting squares, eight setting triangles, and four corner triangles.

2. Sew the units from the previous step into rows, then the rows together, being careful to match the seam intersections and to leave a ¼" seam allowance beyond the edges of the Ohio Star blocks. The quilt center should now measure 13½" square. Press the seams toward the setting blocks and setting triangles.

clip

Seam intersection

clip½"

BordersFrom green plaid, cut:

4—2½" strips the width of your quilt center’s measurement for inner border (Cathy’s measured 2½" x 13½")

4—2½" squares, then cut each in half diagonally once for a total of four triangles for inner border

From dark blue plaid flannel, cut: 4—8½" strips the width of your quilt top’s measurement for outer border

(Cathy’s measured 8½" x 13½") 2—12" squares, then cut each in half diagonally once for a total of four

triangles for outer border

1. Sew a 2½"-wide green plaid border strip to an 8½"-wide dark blue plaid border strip. Press the seam toward the narrower green plaid border.

2. With a pencil, trace the appliqué templates onto the Heat’n Bond Lite.

3. Match each appliqué template with its designated wool color, then roughly cut about 1/8" around each traced shape.

4. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, iron the Heat’n Bond to the appropriate piece of wool.

5. Carefully cut out each piece on the pencil lines, then remove the paper backing.


6. Referring to the photo of the quilt on page 51, place each wool shape on the borders, then iron them in place according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For proper placement of the angel pieces, see the following diagram.

7. Using a blanket stitch and perle cotton to match the appliqué shapes, appliqué the angels, halos, trees, and trunks to the borders. Since wool can ravel, take a slightly bigger bit of wool than you would for cotton fabric as you do your blanket stitch.

8. Using a primitive stitch (similar to a blind hem stitch) and perle cotton to match the stars, appliqué the stars to the borders.


A

B

C

D

E

9. Sew one completed border strip to the top of the quilt center and the other to the bottom of the quilt center. Press the seams toward the border.

10. Draw a diagonal pencil line on the wrong side of each of the 4—2½" green plaid squares. With right sides together, position each square in the corner of the four dark blue plaid flannel triangles. Instead of sewing directly on the pencil line, sew just outside the line (about a thread’s width) toward the outer point as shown in the below right diagram.

11. Trim the fabric, leaving a ¼" seam allowance, and press the seam toward the larger triangle.

12. Sew a triangle section to each side of the two remaining angel borders, starting with fabric edges even at the bottom of the border. Press the seams toward the border.

50 Winter 2013

There will be excess fabric at the top that will be trimmed after the borders are sewn to the quilt.

13. Sew each border to opposite sides of the quilt top, carefully matching seam intersections. Press the seams toward the borders.

14. With a ruler and rotary cutter, trim the corners even with the outer edges of the quilt. Using a 1/8" seam allowance, stay-stitch around the entire outer edge of the quilt to prevent stretching on the bias edges.

15. Referring to the following diagram, position a green plaid #1 wool tree with a medium trunk and two stars on opposite corners. Repeat in the remaining opposite corners, using the green plaid #2 for the trees and medium trunks. Fuse the appliqué shapes in place and appliqué the trees with a blanket stitch and the stars with a primitive stitch.

Sandwich the quilt top, batting, and backing; baste. Quilt as desired, then bind.


CATHY THOMAS began sewing in her early teens, following in the footsteps of her mother and great-grandmother. When her daughter was born, she fell in love with English smocking and French heirloom sewing by machine and made countless dresses using these techniques. She taught classes at a local fabric shop, sharing her love of sewing and handwork with other mothers and grandmothers. Her focus later turned to quilting, and in 2001, she opened her longarm machine quilting business, Little House Quilting. Captivated by the many beautiful quilts she was privileged to bring to life through the quilting process, she began designing her own quilt patterns. She resides in Colorado Springs, Colorado, where she designs patterns, teaches classes at a local quilt shop, and machine-quilts as a business. She is the mother of four grown children and grandmother of five.

Contact InformationFor more information on Cathy’s designs or to order a kit for this project, which includes fabric for the quilt top and binding, plus hand-dyed wools for the appliqué ($59.95 plus shipping), contact her at littlehousequilts.com or [email protected].

Winter 2013


Angel starCut 4

Corner starCut 4

Tree star #2Cut 4

Tree star #1Cut 4

TreeCut 16

Medium trunkCut 8

Short trunkCut 4

Tall

tru

nk

Cu

t 4

The Tree Lighting

Cathy Thomas

(Pages 46-51)

Angel dressCut 4

WingCut 4

FaceCut 4

HandCut 4

FootCut 4

SleeveCut 4

Hal

oC

ut

4

Winter 2013


Inspired by forests and

friends, this quilt was

lovingly designed as

a tribute to both. The

woods are magical

to me. As a child, I

would wander them,

and the child in me

today remains drawn

to them. Along the

woodland paths of my

life, I have found many

friends who share my

love of quilting.

Material RequirementsYou can use felted or non-felted wool. If you use felted wool, pre-wash your flannels.

15" x 18" creamy white wool for tree background and “WELCOME FRIENDS” background ¼ yard red/tan plaid homespun flannel for first border1 yard black/brown tiny plaid flannel for inner strip, outer border, backing, and binding DMC embroidery floss in dark brown (tree trunk and branches), dark green (tree needles and holly leaves), black (tree bucket and lettering), and dark red (holly berries, candy cane, snowflakes on bucket, and tree top bow)Dark neutral quilting threadThree dark green and three dark red 3/8"-wide two-hole buttons (optional)

Winter Welcome

Designed by Mardi NilesFinished size: 14¾" x 21"


Beginner

Cutting InstructionsAlways take a final measurement of the piece you are attaching to the quilt before cutting. Before cutting the creamy white wool pieces to the sizes listed below, Mardi recommends stitching the embroidery patterns in the template insert on them because fabric distortion can occur during the stitching process. To help correctly place your embroidery, she recommends using a basting thread to transfer the finished size of the tree background and “WELCOME FRIENDS” background pieces. If distortion occurs during stitching, you can easily remove the basting stitches and reposition if needed (Mardi has allotted enough fabric to make adjustments for shrinkage). Refer to the quilt assembly diagram on page 20 for numbers 1–10 in parentheses in the following list.

From creamy white wool, cut: 1—8½" x 18" rectangle for tree background 1—4" x 18" strip for “WELCOME FRIENDS” background

From red/tan plaid homespun flannel, cut: 1—2" strip the width of fabric for first border, then sub-cut that strip into

2—2" x 16½" strips (3 and 4) and 2—2" x 6½" strips (1 and 2). Before cutting this strip, Mardi took a final measurement of her wool tree background, then cut accordingly.

From black/brown tiny plaid flannel, cut: 1—1½" x 16½" strip (5) for strip between “WELCOME FRIENDS” and red/

tan plaid homespun border 2—2½" x 11¾" strips (7 and 8) for outer border top and bottom strips 1—2½" x 21½" strip (9) for outer border left strip 1—1½" x 21½" strip (10) for outer border right strip 1—18" x 24" rectangle for backing 2—2¼" strips the width of fabric for binding

1

2

345

6

10

7

8

9


Sewing Instructions Before you embroider the creamy white wool pieces, use a basting stitch and mark the finished size of the tree rectangle at 6¼" x 13¾" and the finished size of the “WELCOME FRIENDS” strip at 2" x 16½" on the respective creamy white wool pieces. This will provide a good reference for placing your embroidery patterns. Refer to the quilt assembly diagram on page 20 for numbers 1–10 in parentheses in the following sewing instructions.

1. Using your preferred transfer method and referring to the project photo on page 23 for placement, transfer the embroidery patterns in the template insert onto the right side of the wool backgrounds. For a more primitive look, you can free-hand draw the patterns.

2. Using a backstitch and referring to the embroidery floss colors listed in the Material Requirements, embroider the design (If you want a more primitive feel, use a simple uneven running stitch). Mardi used four strands of floss for the tree trunk and tree top bow and three strands of floss for the tree branches, tree needles, holly leaves, tree bucket, lettering, holly berries, candy cane, and snowflakes on bucket.

3. Using a slightly damp pressing cloth and an iron with NO steam, gently press the wrong sides of the stitched pieces by picking the iron up and down rather than pushing it on your fabrics (Pressing with steam can cause homespun, wools, and flannels to stretch).

4. Trim the stitched creamy white wool tree rectangle to 6¼" x 13¾".

5. Trim the stitched creamy white wool “WELCOME FRIENDS” strip to 2" x 16½".

6. Referring to the quilt assembly diagram on page 20, sew the 2—2" x 6¼" red/tan plaid homespun strips (1 and 2) to the top and bottom of the wool tree block. Press seams toward the border.

7. Referring to the quilt assembly diagram, sew the 2—2" x 16½" red/tan plaid homespun strips (3 and 4) to the sides of the wool tree block. Press seams toward the border. Square the quilt top.

8. Referring to the quilt assembly diagram, sew the 1½" x 16½" black/brown tiny plaid flannel strip (5) to the right side of the 2" x 16½" embroidered

“WELCOME FRIENDS” wool strip, making sure the lettering is right side up. Press seam toward the border.

A BC

DE

FG

Backstitch

9. Referring to the quilt assembly diagram, sew the unit from step 8 to the left side of the bordered tree block.

10. Referring to the quilt assembly diagram, sew the 2—2½" x 11¾" black/brown tiny plaid flannel strips (7 and 8) to the top and bottom of the quilt. Press seams toward the border.

11. Referring to the quilt assembly diagram, sew the 2½" x 21½" black/brown tiny plaid flannel strip (9) to the left side of the quilt top. Press seam toward the border.

12. Referring to the quilt assembly diagram, sew the 1½" x 21½" black/brown tiny plaid flannel strip (10) to the right side of the quilt top. Press seam toward the border. Square the quilt top.

13. Sandwich the quilt top, batting, and backing; baste. Quilt as desired, then bind.

14. Referring to the project photo on page 23 for placement, embellish the tree block with buttons sewn on with embroidery floss.

Creating magic with fabric and thread has always been a part of MARDI NILES’ life. Her mom taught her how to sew and insisted that if her daughter could not wear something she made inside out, her quality of sewing was not good enough. That work ethic stuck with Mardi, who loves primitive style but, like her mom, insists it be well done.

Contact InformationFor more information on Mardi’s designs, contact her at [email protected]. For more information about kits for this project (which include all fabrics needed to make it but not embroidery floss, thread, or buttons) and their cost, contact The Joyful Quilter at joyfulquilter.com or [email protected]. Please note that kit fabric may vary slightly from the ones used in the actual quilt.

Winter Welcome

Mardi Niles

Page 1 of 3

Join to bottom line

Winter 2014


and Projects

Winter Welcome

Mardi Niles

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Join to top line

Winter 2014


and Projects

Winter Welcome

Mardi Niles

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Winter 2014


and Projects

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