V A Š B R E Z P L A Č N I I Z V O D - Y O U R P E R S O N A L C O P Y

Adria Airways In-Flight Magazinejunij, julij - June, July 2008 3 )

Ulrich Schulte Strathaus • London • Atene • Turistične kmetije

Planinsko polje • Dolenjska kopališča •Pešpot • Ljubljanski jazz festival • Grintovec • New York

Ulrich Schulte Strathaus • London • Athens • Tourist FarmsPlaninsko polje • Bathing in Dolenjska • The Footpath • Ljubljana Jazz Festival • Grintovec • New York

naše revijeTwenty Years of our Magazine

20 letnaše revijeTwenty Years of our Magazine

20 letnaše revije20 letnaše revijenaše revijenaše revijenaše revijenaše revijenaše revijeTwenty Years of our Magazinenaše revijenaše revijenaše revijenaše revijenaše revijenaše revijenaše revijenaše revijeTwenty Years of our MagazineTwenty Years of our MagazineTwenty Years of our MagazineTwenty Years of our Magazine

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Ulrich Schulte Strathaus • London • Atene • Turistične kmetije

Planinsko polje • Dolenjska kopališča •Pešpot • Ljubljanski jazz festival • Grintovec • New York

Ulrich Schulte Strathaus • London • Athens • Tourist FarmsPlaninsko polje • Bathing in Dolenjska • The Footpath • Ljubljana Jazz Festival • Grintovec • New York

Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine

Adria Airways In-Flight MagazineRevija Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine

je namenjena potnikom na poletih z Adrio Airways.Adria In-flight Magazine is complimentary

on Adria Airways flights.

Izdajatelj / Published by: Adria Airways Slovenski letalski prevoznik, d.d.

Adria Airways The Airline of Sloveniatel.: 00386 1 3691 000

Uredništvo / Editorial: Področje trženje in prodaja / Sales and Marketing - Barbara Mihevc Bukovec

Urednica / Edited by: Meta KreseOblikovanje in AD / Design and AD: LUKS Studio

Prevod / Translated by: AmidasLektorja / Language editing: Vera Samohod,

Steve DiskinFotoliti / Lithography: Schwarz d.o.o.

Tisk / Printed by: Schwarz d.o.o.

Oglaševanje / Advertising: Alenka Dvoršak, Adria Airways, Kuzmičeva 7, Ljubljana,

E-mail: alenka.dvorsak@adria.si

ISSN 1318-0789

Mnenja, izražena v tej publikaciji, so zgolj mnenja avtorjev ali intervjuvancev in ne odsevajo nujno stališč Adrie

Airways. Razmnoževanje brez pisnega dovoljenjaje prepovedano. Izdajatelj ne prevzema nikakršne

odgovornosti za nenaročeno gradivo.The opinions expressed in this publication are those of the authors or persons interviewed only and do not necessarily reflect the views of Adria Airways. Reproduction without

written permission is prohibited. The pub lish er accepts no responsibility for unsolicit ed material.

Brezplačen izvod / Your personal copy

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V s e b i n a – C o n t e n t sV s e b i n a – C o n t e n t s

Adrijin potnik / Adria Passenger

Ulrich Schulte StrathausUlrich Schulte StrathausBarbara M. Bukovec, Meta Krese

London

Bloomsbury - mestna četrt protislovijBloomsbury: a District of ContradictionsLora Power

Atene / Athens

Mediteran, poln nasprotijThe Mediterranean Full of ContrastsAleksandra Dragan

Turistične kmetije / Tourist Farms

Na deželo. K ljudem.To the Country. To the People.Branko Čeak

Planinsko polje

Manj poznani sosed Cerkniškega jezeraLake Cerknica’s Less Famous Neighbour Rafael Marn

Kako je nastalo Planinsko polje?How did Planinsko Polje form? Andrej Šmuc

Dolenjska kopališčaBathing in DolenjskaMarjan Žiberna

Velikolaška kulturna potThe Cultural Path of Velike LaščeAndrej Crček

Ljubljanski jazz festival, ki je vedno več kot le prireditevLjubljana Jazz Festival – More Than Just an EventJure Potokar

Gorski tek na GrintovecThe Grintovec Mountain RunUrban Golob

New York

Na cesti s knjigami v rokiOn the Road with an Armful of BooksMeta Krese

J. Pukšič

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številke dalje, bomo neskromno zapisali: uspešni smo (in zraven držali fige, da bi ostalo še naprej tako). Priznamo pa, da moramo pripisati zasluge predvsem našim sodelavkam in sodelavcem. Med avtorji in avtoricami so prejemniki prestižnih domačih in mednarodnih nagrad za dosežke na literarnem področju ter za oblikovanje in fotografijo: med njimi so nagrajenci Prešernovega sklada, fabule (nagrade za najboljšo slovensko zbirko kratke proze zadnjih dveh let), pa tudi dobitniki novinarskih stanovskih nagrad in mnogi drugi. Naj bo torej ta obletnica priložnost, da se prav vsem zahvalimo za sodelovanje.

Revija Adria In-Flight Magazine je prvič izšla v juniju 1988. Adria Airways je bila v tistih letih čarterski prevoznik in temu primerna je bila tudi njena prva izdaja In-Flight Magazina. Na dvaintridesetih straneh je potnikom ponudila pestro branje o turističnih zanimivostih Jugoslavije, namenjena pa je bila pred-vsem tujcem, saj je izšla le v angleškem in nemškem jeziku. Revijo so potniki lepo sprejeli in s tem se je njena pot začela.

SEK

2270From Stockholm to LjubljanaAll taxes, fees and charges are included in the price. More info www.adria-airways.com.

EUR

241Iz Ljubljane v Stockholm Vse pristojbine in druge dajatve so vključene v ceno. Pogoji na www.adria-airways.com.

»Adria je revija, ki smo jo posvojili,« so na svoji spletni strani zapisali ustvarjalci oblikovalske delavnice Luks Studio.

Zares bi težko našli boljše besede, s katerimi bi tako preprosto in hkrati iskreno izrazili čustva večine vseh tistih, ki smo ustvarjali in še vedno ustvarjamo revijo. Adrio, no, Adrio Airways In-Flight Magazine enostavno moraš posvojiti. In če smo nekoliko sentimentalni − to se ob dvajsetletnici izdajanja tudi spodobi − moraš jo vzljubiti. Seveda zahteva snovanje revije precejšnjo mero zavzetosti in odgovornosti vseh nas, vendar pa to delo ni nikoli stresno, čemur se še sami čudimo, saj nas večina dobro pozna vzdušje pri drugih medijih. Brez velike živčne napetosti izide revija vsak drugi mesec, in sicer s tako vsebino, ki naj bi pritegnila naše potnike k potepanju po Sloveniji in svetu. Izbira tem je precej zapletena, saj želimo, da bi bilo branje zanimivo tako za slovenske potnike in za vse poznavalce Slovenije kot tudi za tujce, ki našo deželo šele spoznavajo. Glede na to, da poznamo kar nekaj zbirateljev, ki hranijo izvode naše revije vse od prve

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Dvajset letizhajanja naše revije

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226Iz Ljubljane v Atene Vse pristojbine in druge dajatve so vključene v ceno. Pogoji na www.adria-airways.com.

EUR

226From Athens to LjubljanaAll taxes, fees and charges are included in the price. More info www.adria-airways.com.

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V prvem letu je izšla le ena sama številka, že v naslednjem letu pa sta se ji pri-družili spomladansko-poletna in jesensko-zimska izdaja. Prva urednika revije sta bila Nada Serajnik-Sraka in Mitja Meršol, oblikoval jo je Sašo Urukalo.

Čas je prinesel spremembe in spreminjala se je tudi revija. Povečali smo števi-lo strani in število izdaj v posameznem letu. Menjavali so se uredniki, oblikoval-ci in tiskarji ...

Prvemu uredniškemu paru je sledila Brina Kovač, nato pa Ljerka Zupančič, Jasna Lesnjak in Ingrid Bakše. Zadnji v tej verigi sva Meta Krese in Barbara Mihevc Bukovec. Vsak je dal reviji nekaj svojega in v njej pustil svoj pečat ...

Od leta 1992 izhaja revija v slovenskem in angleškem jeziku. Približno v istem času je oblikovanje prevzel oblikovalski studio Luks in dal reviji njeno zna-čilno podobo, kakršno ima danes.

Primarni namen revije je bralcem predstaviti letalsko družbo Adrio Airways in jih seznaniti z značilnostmi, ki jo odlikujejo: z njeno skrbjo za varnost in zanesljivost, s prijaznostjo do potnikov ter s prizadevanji za ohranjanje tradicije, obenem pa jim vzbuditi željo po potovanjih. Adria In-Flight Magazine ni name-njena zgolj letalskim potnikom, pač pa ima tudi močno razvejano distribucijsko mrežo tako doma kot v tujini. Najdemo jo v različnih hotelih, zdraviliščih, na sejmih, v knjižnicah in kot taka je privlačna tudi za oglaševalce, ki jih imamo vsako leto več.

Kvalitetni članki in bogate ilustracije, s katerimi se revija ponaša, niso ostali neopaženi niti v tujini. Leta 2000 je bila Adria In-Flight Magazine nagrajena s prestižno nagrado Zlato pero za odličnost v komuniciranju (Gold Quill Award of Excellence) v San Franciscu, ZDA, ki jo podeljuje Mednarodno združenje poslovnih komunikatorjev IABC.

In kaj drugega nam za konec še preostane, kot da zaželimo reviji in vsem nje-nim ustvarjalcem: »Še na mnoga leta!«

Twenty Yearsof the

Adria In-Flight Magazine

“Adria is a magazine we have adopted as our own” – this is what the design team at Luks Studio say on their web-

site. It would be hard to find a better expression to sum up so simply and sin-cerely the feelings of the majority of us who work on or have worked on the magazine. Adopting Adria, or rather the Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine, is something you simply cannot help. And if we allow ourselves to be a lit-tle sentimental – something only fitting on our twentieth anniversary – you cannot help growing fond of it either. As one might expect, working on the

magazine demands commitment and responsibility from all of us, but this is never stressful. This is surprising even to us, given that most of us are more than familiar with the atmosphere in other media. Without any great nervous tension, the magazine appears every two months, with contents designed to encourage our passengers to go travelling around Slovenia and the world. The choice of content is quite a complex business, since we want our magazine to be interesting not only for our Slovenian passengers and those who are famil-iar with Slovenia, but also for those foreign readers who are only just getting to know our country. In view of the fact that we know of quite a number of keen collectors who have been collecting our magazine ever since its very first issue, we might immodestly claim (touching wood as we do so) that so far we have been successful. We do, however, recognise that most of the credit has to go to those who have worked on the magazine with us. On the crea-tive side they have included winners of prestigious international design and photography awards and the highest national accolades: they include Prešeren Fund prizewinners, Fabula award winners, winners of journalism awards, and so on. This anniversary is therefore an opportunity to thank all of them for their work.

The first issue of the Adria In-Flight Magazine appeared in June 1988. At that time Adria Airways was a charter carrier, and the first issue of the maga-zine reflected this. Its thirty-two pages offered tourists a variety of articles about the sights of Yugoslavia. It was aimed above all at foreign visitors, since it only appeared in English and German. The magazine was well received by passengers, and so our story began. Only one issue was published that first year. The following year saw a spring/summer issue and an autumn/winter issue. The magazine’s first editors were Nada Serajnik-Sraka and Mitja Meršol, and the designer was Sašo Urukalo.

Time has brought changes and the magazine has changed too. The number of pages has grown, as has the number of issues per year. Editors, designers and printers have come and gone. The first editorial duo was followed by Brina Kovač, then by Ljerka Zupančič, Jasna Lesnjak and Ingrid Bakše. The last in this chain are Meta Krese and Barbara Mihevc Bukovec. Each of them has given the magazine something of themselves.

Since 1992 the magazine has been bilingual, in Slovene and English. At around the same time the design of the magazine was taken over by the Luks design studio, which gave the magazine its present look.

The primary function of the magazine is to present Adria Airways to our readers and to emphasise the virtues that distinguish it – safety, reliability, passenger-friendliness and tradition – while at the same time stimulating their desire to travel. Owing to its promotional nature, the Adria magazine is not only aimed at passengers on scheduled and charter flights, but has a wide distribution network both at home and abroad. We can find it in hotels and spas, at trade fairs, in libraries, and so on, and it is therefore also attractive to advertisers, of which we have more every year.

The high-quality articles and opulent pictorial material boasted by the magazine have not passed unobserved outside Slovenia. In 2000 the Adria In-Flight Magazine won the Gold Quill Award for excellence in communica-tion from the IABC (International Association of Business Communicators) in San Francisco, USA.

And so nothing remains but to raise a glass to the magazine and all who have worked on it: Here’s to many more successful years! A

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Na deželo. K ljudem.Besedilo in fotografije: Branko âeakBesedilo in fotografije: Branko âeak

Na deželo. K ljudem.

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najti; oni znajo svetovati, kaj pogledati v kakem kraju.Za radovednega turista pomeni bivanje na deželi vpogled v pisano

sliko mentalitete naroda. Turistične kmetije so razpršene širom po Sloveniji in vsaka družina, ki povabi gosta v svojo hišo, na vrt, njivo in v kuhinjo, s tem razgali nekaj naše skupne intime.

In kmetije so na kmetih. Tam je zrak, ki ga vdihuješ, da se ti včasih zvrti, tam je ptičje petje in njiva in vrt, kjer raste zelenjava z okusom. Gospodinja znosi na mizo jedi, ki ohranjajajo živo tradicijo. »Tole vze-mite, sem si ga danes pripravila, je dober,« mi Vilma Topolšek ob od-hodu z njene kmetije potiska v roko kozarec čemaževega pesta z lešniki.

Rad srečam človeka, za katerega se sprašujem, ali je na kmetiji gost ali gostitelj. Koda oblačenja je drugačna kot v hotelu. Kvaliteta ponud-be je pogosto tako visoka, da se zdi cena bivanja na turistični kmetiji nizka. Spričo osebnega odnosa gostiteljev hitro postaneš domač, in to ne le na dvorišču domačije. Na sprehodu po vasi srečaš ljudi, ki rečejo »Dober dan« in se ustavijo.

Stojijo gričevja in gozdovi in stoji nekaj starih kmetij. Kaj se ne bi ustavil še sam? Morda sta dve bistveni lastnosti bivanja na kmetiji – mir, ki od zunaj vstopa navznoter, in pristen človeški stik, ki v moj kompas dodaja novo smer: k ljudem.

guides and people with the best ideas.For the curious tourist, a stay in the country provides an insight

into the colourful collage of a nation’s mentality. Tourist farms can be found all over Slovenia, and every family inviting guests into their house, garden, field and kitchen reveals a bit of our shared intimacy.

And farmers live on farms. In the country the air you breathe is so pure it makes you dizzy, birds sing, and the fields and gardens yield produce with full taste. The lady of the house puts dishes on the table which pass on a living tradition. “Try this, I made it today, it’s really good,” Vilma Topolšek says to me as I’m leaving her farm, handing me a jar of bear garlic pesto with walnuts.

On farms I’m always happy to meet people whom I cannot tell whether they are hosts or guests. The dress code is different than in hotels, and the quality of services is often so high that prices at tourist farms seem too modest. The hosts are hospitable and friendly, so one quickly starts feeling at home, and not only in the courtyard. If you go for a walk through the village, you meet people who greet you and stop to chat.

There are hills and there are forests, and there are a few old farms. Why not stay at one of them? The two – probably essential – charac-teristics of rural tourism are peace, which enters from the outside in-wards, and the genuine human element, which gives my compass a new direction: to the people. A

To the Country. To the People.Text and Photography: Branko âeak

V dolino Šerugovih se spustimo po kolovozu,tlakovanem z granitnimi kockami. Spomnim se zvoka pod kolesi, ko sem se v otroštvu po granitnih cestah vozil s starši. Tiste ceste so bile speljane drugod kot

avtoceste. Ob njih so živeli ljudje. Spomnim se živahnih dvorišč pred kmetijami in starke, ki je sedela na klopi. In spomnim se, da je bila vo-žnja doživetje. Celo izgubili smo se kdaj in ponavadi takrat kaj našli ali spoznali koga, ki ga sicer ne bi nikdar iskali. Od tedaj nosi potovanje v sebi čar premikanja od znanega k neznanemu. Čar raziskovanja. Starša sta me razvadila z raziskovanji, ki so trajala po cel mesec. Smer je bila vedno ista: na jug. Na morje.

In tako sem shodil v samostojnega raziskovalca. Kompasovi igli se je zvrtelo v vse smeri neba. Granitne kocke je zalil asfalt. Poti so se skraj-šale. Verjetno ne samo moje. Trend kratkih počitnic je trend hitrega časa in prilagodljivost turistične ponudbe se najlepše kaže v ponudbi na podeželju. Domala 300 hišnih številk po vsej Sloveniji ponuja stori-tve pod skupnim imenom »kmečki turizem«. Nekatere odprejo vrata med vikendom in gostom nudijo povečini domačo hrano, druge, in teh je čedalje več, nudijo tudi prenočišča in s tem bolj celostno izku-šnjo podeželja. In boljše vodiče in tkalce idej, kot so kmetje, je težko

To approach the valley where we will find the Šeruga family, we descend along a granite-paved country road. I remember the sound under the wheels, when – as a child – I travelled down granite-paved roads with my

parents. Those roads were no motorways; people lived right next to them. I remember the lively courtyards in front of farms, and an old woman sitting on a bench. And I remember that those rides were real adventures. Sometimes we even got lost, and on those occasions we usually found interesting places and met people we’d never have looked for otherwise. Ever since, I’ve experienced travelling as a magi-cal trip from the known to the unknown. The wonder of exploration. My parents spoiled me on those trips, lasting for a whole month. And the direction was always the same: to the south. To the sea.

I eventually grew up into an independent explorer. My compass nee-dle pointed to all ends of the world. The granite blocks were covered by asphalt, the distances became shorter, probably not mine alone. The short-holiday trend is the trend of fast living, and the adaptable nature of the tourist offering is most evident in country tourism. Alto-gether, almost 300 locations all over Slovenia offer services under the common label of farm tourism. Some farms open their doors only at weekends, offering home-made local dishes, while others – and their number is growing – provide lodging as well and thus a more compre-hensive rural experience. And farmers are definitely the best local

by asphalt, the distances became shorter, probably not mine alone. The short-holiday trend is the trend of fast living, and the adaptable nature of the tourist offering is most evident in country tourism. Alto-gether, almost 300 locations all over Slovenia offer services under the common label of farm tourism. Some farms open their doors only at weekends, offering home-made local dishes, while others – and their number is growing – provide lodging as well and thus a more compre-hensive rural experience. And farmers are definitely the best local

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Tlakovana pot se ob potoku izteče na dvorišče domačije – v varno zavetje samotne zelene doline. Za vogal steče zlata prinašalka in nasle-dnji trenutek priteče izza drugega ogla k mojim nogam. Nagnem se, da bi jo pobožal, ko iz gobca spusti predme sveže kurje jajce. Psička opazi mojo zadrego, se skloni k razbitemu jajcu in prijazno zalaja, češ da je res zame. Z balkona moški glas nekako obupano, a hkrati prizanesljivo in ljubeče zakliče: »Rena ... no, takole se včasih koga razveseli ...«

Iz hiše prinese vonj po svežem kruhu. »Vsak dan ga pečemo, včasih ga mesijo tudi gostje,« nas Slavko Šeruga pospremi v kuhinjo. Hči Eva sklonjena nad mizo zavija štruklje, njena mati Lili peče ajdove palačin-ke z gobami. Kuhinja je njuno svetišče. Veliko ajdove moke uporablja-ta, coprata vse mogoče juhe, mesne in ribje jedi. Čez dvorišče teče po-tok in v njem Slavko goji domače postrvi. Gostje si jih lahko ulove kar sami. In vsa hrana, tudi živalska krma, prihaja iz domače biopridelave. »Gostom nudimo, kar sami radi pojemo,« iznad štedilnika pove Lili.

Na vrtu v senci mogočnega kostanja pijemo domač jabolčni sok in se ob šumenju potoka potapljamo v nek drug svet. Sledim zvokom kla-diva in na travniku na drugi strani potoka opazim Slavka, kako se sklanja nad skladovnico lesenih tramov. »Kašča je stala na trasi avto-ceste, so jo hoteli podreti, pa sem jo kupil. Gnezdo za zaljubljene bo,« pove Slavko. Oba z Lili sta diplomirala iz tujih jezikov, a hkrati do po-tankosti obvladata jezik slovenske tradicije, tako v kulinariki kot arhi-tekturi in notranji opremi, ki je vsa Slavkovo delo. »Mrači se, krave morajo v štalo.«

The Šeruga Tourist Farm

The paved road runs along a stream and ends in a farm courtyard, in the safe haven of a solitary green valley. A golden retriever disap-pears around a corner, and then reappears and comes running to me. I bend down to pet it, but it drops a fresh egg at my feet. The dog notic-es my puzzlement and kindly barks as if to say, yes, it’s for you. From the balcony comes a slightly desperate, yet loving and forgiving male voice: “Rena... this is how she sometimes greets the people she likes...”

From the house drifts the smell of freshly baked bread. “We bake it

every day, and sometimes even our guests knead the dough,” says Slavko Šeruga and leads us into the kitchen. His daughter Eva is bent over the table rolling up štruklji, and her mother Lili is making buck-wheat pancakes with mushrooms. The kitchen is their temple. They use a great deal of buckwheat flour, conjuring up all sorts of soups, meat dishes and trout. A stream runs across the courtyard, and Slavko keeps trout in it. Guest can catch them themselves if they want. And all the food, including the animal feed, is organically produced. “We offer our guests what we like to eat, too,” says Lili, bent over the stove.

We sit in the garden, drinking home-made apple juice in the shade of a mighty chestnut tree and listening to the murmur of the stream. I follow the sound of the hammer and in a meadow on the other bank notice Slavko by a stack of wooden beams. “There was this granary, it stood where the motorway was to be built, they wanted to pull it down, so I bought it. It’ll make a nice lovers’ nest,” says Slavko. Both Slavko and Lili graduated in foreign languages, but they are also per-fectly fluent in the language of Slovenian tradition – in cuisine as well as architecture and interior decoration, which is Slavko’s specialty. “It’s getting dark, and we have to bring in the cattle.” A

Turistična kmetija

Šeruga

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Turistična kmetija

Urška»Pojejta, bomo potem kakšno rekli,« se nasmeje Vilma Topolšek iz-

nad jušnika štrukljev. »Vzemita, kolikor vama paše. Ne strežem na kro-žnike, poln krožnik človeku vzame tek.« Pravzaprav sva v hišo stopila pozdravit, a zgodilo se je kosilo. Pred nama je domačijo obiskala sku-pina bodočih ponudnikov kmečkega turizma. »Ste jim kaj še posebej položili na srce?« »Ja, najpomembnejše na turistični kmetiji je, da go-stu ponudimo hrano, ki jo sami pridelamo.«

V tem duhu deluje domačija na obronkih Pohorja že dobrih sedem-najst let. Italijanska družina je želela sama kuhati enoletni hčeri. »Ni problema, nič ne nosite s seboj,« je bil Vilmin odgovor. In mladi par iz Milana je prvič pulil korenje iz zemlje, z grede rezal solato in luščil grah.

Mimo krušne peči vstopim v nepričakovan svet: masažni bazen, le-žalniki, turška in finska savna in izba s kupom sena v kotu. »Senena kopel,« je skrivnostna Vilma. Zaprem oči in vonj senenega drobirja pričara prizor visokih poletnih trav in travniškega cvetja vseh barv. Odprem oči in prizor ni nič slabši: skozi velika okna opazujem čredo ovac na strmih pašnikih pod hišo. Kmetija Vilminih prednikov je morda vzorčen primer, kako kmetija postane turistični objekt in hkra-ti v celoti ohrani duha kmetije.

Pod krošnjami sadnega drevja capljajo kokoši. »Kanja nam jih nosi,« spregovorijo košati brki gospodarja Toneta. »Kaj naj naredim? Prešte-tih nimam, zapiral jih pa tudi ne bom. Stopita, glavnega še nista vide-la ...« Pod rezbarijo veseljaka Bakhusa poskusiva rose in se zadrživa pri sladkem tramincu.

The Urška Tourist Farm

“Eat now, we’ll talk later,” Vilma Topolšek smiles from above a bowl of štruklji. “Eat to your hearts’ content. I don’t want to serve food on plates… a full plate kills one’s appetite.” In fact we came into the house just to say hello but were offered lunch. Before we came, they had oth-er visitors – some people who want to set up farm tourism in the fu-ture. “Did you give them any special advice?” “Yes, the most important thing on a tourist farm is to provide home-grown food.”

And the farm at the foothills of the Pohorje range has operated in this spirit for a good seventeen years. An Italian family wanted to cook their own food for their one-year-old daughter. “No problem, just don’t bring anything with you,” was Vilma’s reply. And a young couple from Milan for the first time in their lives pulled carrots out of the soil, cut fresh lettuce and shelled peas.

Past the brick bake oven I enter into an unexpected world: a massage pool, beach chairs, a Turkish steambath, a Finnish sauna and a tiny room with a heap of hay in the corner. “A hay bath,” Vilma says mysteriously. I close my eyes, and the smell of the hay conjures up a scene of high summer grass and colourful blooming pastures. I open my eyes, and the scene is just as pretty: through large windows I watch a flock of sheep on the steep pastures below the house. The farm set up by Vilma’s ancestors is perhaps a model case of how a farm can be converted into a tourist facility, and yet completely preserve its rural character.

Under the fruit trees there are chickens strutting about. “Buzzards are taking them,” the landlord Tone says from under his thick moustache, “what can I do, I don’t count them, and I don’t want to lock them in. Come over here, I haven’t shown you the main thing...” Under the carving depicting Bacchus we taste the rosé and continue with the sweet tramini. A

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Porečji Dragonje in Rokave ustvarjata zeleno dolino, ki druži boga-tijo obmorskega podnebja in rodovitnost dobro zalite prsti. Nad doli-no se stegujejo jeziki grebenov in se končujejo v vaseh Koštabona, Puče in Krkavče. Okenske odprtine v kamnitih pročeljih s svojih su-hih višav nevoščljivo zro v zelenje pod seboj.

V začetku osemdesetih je pravnik Matej Matičetov s prijatelji kupil nekaj vinograda pod Krkavčami, da bi v dobri družbi pridelal in spil kak kozarec domače malvazije. Istrski zrak ima to lastnost, da znese na kup sosede in prijatelje, da v pojočem istrskem melosu večer za ve-čerom obirajo novice o stanju sveta. Ob rezini pršuta in kozarcu do-mačega, seveda.

Matej je prišel na Obalo iz Ljubljane in kmalu začutil, da je posest na Kortini lahko še kaj več kot le prostor za občasna druženja. Začel je zlagati kamne v svojstveno arhitekturo, ki danes kot turistična kmetija Pri Matičku že deseto leto ponuja svojevrstno doživetje doline Drago-nje. Svojevrstno zato, ker zelenje, tišina in odsotnost človeškega nare-kujejo obiskovalcu doline zamaknjenost in raziskovanje, kmetija pa nudi postanek ob dobri hrani in vinu. »Nista samo hrana in dobra pi-jača tisto, kar tržimo. Naravni ambient doline Dragonje je naša valuta. Naši gostje ostanejo cel dan,« se upre Matej, ko ga iznad krožnika fužev s šparglji in pršutom sprašujem o jedeh, ki k njemu privabijo goste.

In kamne Matej še kar zlaga. »Sobe bomo naredili. Sploh veste, kako se je zbuditi tukaj?« In želje? »Da bi kateri od mojih treh otrok za-čutil s tem prostorom in nadaljeval moje delo.«

“Pri Matiãku” – The Kortina Tourist Farm

The Dragonja and Rokava river basin forms a green valley combin-ing the influence of the coastal climate and fertility of the well-watered soil. Above the valley rise the hilly ridges ending in the villages of Koštabona, Puče and Krkavče. The windows in the stone walls high above enviously look down at the greenery below.

In the early eighties the lawyer Matej Matičetov and his friends bought a length of vineyard just below Krkavče in order – in good

Turistična kmetijaKortina

Pri Matičku

company – to produce and drink a couple of glasses of home-made malvasia. Istrian air is special – it tends to bring together neighbours and friends, who night after night discuss the state of the world in their melodious dialect. While eating prosciutto and drinking local wine, of course.

Matej came to the coast from Ljubljana, and the estate in Kortina soon became more than just a sunny plot where he could occasionally drink malvasia with his friends. He started putting stones one on top of the other and erected something, which – under the name Pri Matičku Tourist Farm – has now for 10 years provided a unique experi-ence in the Dragonja Valley. Unique, because the greenery, silence and absence of people lure visitors to contemplation and exploration, while the farm itself offers excellent food and wine. “But we don’t mar-ket only food and drink. Our true advantage is the natural landscape of the Dragonja Valley. Our guests usually stay the whole day,” Matej protests when – over a plate of fuži with asparagus and prosciutto – I ask him about the most popular local dishes.

And Matej continues to put stones one on top of the other. “We’re building rooms. Do you have any idea what it’s like to wake up here?” And what are his wishes? “I hope one of my three children will feel a connection with these places and carry on what I started.” A

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»Sojini polpeti, sojini možgančki, turšija in sojina tortica za posla-dek. Bo?« Zmoti jo zvonjenje telefona. »Buon giorno, come stai?« se Jo-žica Žigon zanima v slušalko, kot bi govorila s staro prijateljico. »Ja, kar kličejo. Da bi le voda padla, sicer bodo odpovedi.«

Planinsko polje so zalila pomladna deževja, da krošnje rastejo iz vo-dne gladine in se obronki hribovja in oblaki zrcalijo na povodnji. Po-leg Cerkniškega jezera lahko notranjski Kras pokaže še en čudež. In ko visoke vode odtečejo, dere nanj reka posebnežev.

Jožica in Milan Žigon sta odprla kmetijo ribičem in popotnikom pred skoraj tremi desetletji. In ves ta čas jima ribolovna sezona od aprila do novembra narekuje delovni ritem. V osemdesetih so pridelo-vali veliko soje kot eksperiment za potrebe vojske in od tedaj jo ponu-jajo v vseh oblikah: od polnjene paprike do sojine kave.

Muharjenje privabi na reko Unico ribiče od vsepovsod. »Če si ribič, ne misliš na nič drugega kot na ribo,« opiše utrip svoje domačije Joži-ca. »pogovori tečejo o centimetrih, dekagramih, kje in na kakšno muho prijemajo ribe. In bognedaj, da ribiču zaželiš dober ulov. Vraža je, da potem ne bo nič ujel.« V jedilnici listam knjigo gostov, debelo od fotografij in komentarjev pod njimi. »Mona,« je nek gost dopisal pod fotografijo italijanskega ribiča s postrvjo v rokah. S sten prežijo name odprti gobci nagačenih trofejnih ulovov.

»Kam jo pa vi mahnete na dopust?« Milan Žigon dvigne v naročje od starosti oglušelo domačo psičko. »Dopust? Nikoli še nisva šla na dopust. Za naju je dopust doma.«

Žigon Tourist Farm

“Soya burgers, soya ‘brain’, turshi and soya cake for desert. Will that do?” She’s interrupted by the phone. “Buon giorno, come stai?” Jožica Žigon says into the receiver as if speaking to an old friend. “Yes, they keep calling. I hope the water level drops, or else they’ll cancel their ar-rangements.”

The Planina polje is flooded by the spring rains so that tree-tops seem to be growing out of the water, and the nearby ridges and clouds are reflected on the water surface. In addition to Lake Cerknica, the

Notranjska karst prides itself with yet another miracle. And this mira-cle, when the high waters recede, is visited by rivers of unusual people.

Jožica and Milan Žigon opened their farm to fishermen and travel-lers almost three decades ago, and all this time their daily rhythm has been dictated by the fishing season, lasting from April to November. In the eighties, they produced large amounts of soya as part of an ex-periment for the needs of the army, and ever since they’ve been offer-ing most varied soya dishes – anything from stuffed paprikas to soya coffee.

Fly fishing on the Unica River attracts fishermen from all over. “A fisherman thinks of nothing but fish,” Jožica sums up the atmosphere on her farm. “They all speak of centimetres, dekagrams, what flies to use and where to fish. And God forbid if you wish them good luck! They’re superstitious and believe they’ll catch nothing.” In the dining room I leaf through the guest-book, thick with photographs and ample comments. “Mona,” a guest wrote under the photo depicting an Italian fisherman holding a trout in his hand. The walls are laden with open-mouthed stuffed trophies.

“And where do you go on holiday?” Milan Žigon lifts up a pet dog gone deaf with age. “Holiday? We’ve never been on holiday. For the two of us, a true vacation is being at home.” A

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Pred menoj se vije mehka gričevnata pokrajina, ki se ponekod spreminja v strma pobočja, razrezana z grapami, potoki in poplavnimi jezeri. Pokrajina okoli Velikih Lašč je dala Sloven-

cem vrsto pomembnih mož, zato te kraje velikokrat visoko zveneče pred-stavljajo kot zibelko slovenske kulture ali celo kot slovenske Atene. Nič čudnega: na Rašici se je rodil Primož Trubar, v Retjah Fran Levstik in v Podsmreki Josip Stritar. »Velike Lašče so središče tistega ozemlja, kjer se govori najboljša in najlepša slovenščina,« je dejal eden izmed njih, Fran Levstik. Ti kraji so naše velike može navdihovali, da so s svojimi deli postavili temelje slovenske književnosti in s tem povzdignili našo besedo na zemljevid velikih narodov. Rojstne vasi naših velmož so od leta 1978 povezane v krožno Velikolaško kulturno pot. Valovita pot me vodi do Rašice. V temačnem srednjem veku bi moral tukaj plačati davek, saj je na tem mestu stala mitnica. Ko moji koraki utihnejo, za trenutek ustavim čas. Kolesa starodavnega Temkovega mlina pa se še vedno vrtijo ... Tu se je pred petsto leti rodil Primož Trubar kot sin mlinarja, tesarja in »cehmoštra«. Trubar je osrednja osebnost v zgodovini slovenskega naroda, je oče slovenskega jezika, slovenski protestantski duhovnik, prenovitelj, pisatelj in prevajalec. Po načelu protestantov, da je treba ljudem približati božjo besedo v domačem jeziku, je napisal prve knjige v slovenščini. Leta 1550 sta na Nemškem izšla njegov Katekizem in ob njem Abecednik. Zatem je napisal še preko 20 knjig. Primož Trubar je pred petsto leti dokazal, da je naš narod sposoben enakopravno živeti v družbi kulturnih narodov Evrope.

Pot zavije v temačen gozd. Glasovi v gozdu prikličejo legende o Tur-kih, ki so plenili našo deželo. Na kamniti plošči pred cerkvenim vho-

dom v Veliki Slevici so še vedno sledi konjskega kopita in biča turškega paše, ki ga je s srepim pogledom pregnala Marija. Malo naprej je med travnike stisnjena vas Podsmreka. Tu se je rodil naslednji veliki Slove-nec, pesnik, pisatelj, kritik in esejist Josip Stritar. Njegove rojstne hiše ni več. O teh krajih govori v svoji pesmi Turki na Slevici:

Čez prag na konju prirohni,gorje, sam turški paša,krvavi v roki meč vihti,zdaj bije ura vaša!

Pot nadaljujem po kolovozih. Turški vpadi so naredili v tej deželi veliko hudega, zato ni čudno, da so pesniki in pisatelji veliko pisali prav o tem. V Retjah stoji s slamo krit Ilijev kozolec. Fran Levstik, poslednji izmed trojice pomembnih velikolaških Slovencev, je znamenito povest Martin Krpan napisal prav pod tem dvesto let starim kozolcem.

Petnajst kilometrov kulturne zgodovine Slovencev je za mano. Zopet sem na začetku, tam, kjer se je vse začelo – pri Primožu Trubarju. Verje-tno ni naključje, da se blizu Trubarjevih, Stritarjevih in Levstikovih kra-jev križata evropski pešpoti E6 in E7. »Kdor hodi, je pred časom. Kdor hodi po pešpoteh, je nekaj desetletij pred časom. Kdor hodi po sloven-skem delu evropskih pešpoti, je že četrt stoletja pred časom,« je moto »evropskih« pohodnikov. In kdor hodi po Velikolaški kulturni poti, se nehote spomni petstoletnice rojstva ene najpomembnejših osebnosti v razvijanju temeljev za oblikovanje slovenskega naroda.

Pešpot

Velikolaška kulturna pot»... štiristo osemindevetdeset, štiristo devetindevetdeset, petsto korakov ...«Na popotovanju slovenske knjige sem izbral njen začetek. Velike Lašče.

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{ The Footpath }

The Cultural Path of Velike LaščeText and Photography: Andrej Crãek

“… four hundred and ninety-eight, four hundred and ninety-nine, five hundred steps …” I have chosen the very beginning of the path travelled by Slovenian literature – Velike Lašče.

Ahead of me, a soft hilly landscape unfolds. In places it changes into steep slopes, carved up by ravines, streams and flooding lakes. The surroundings of Velike Lašče have

given Slovenia several important men which is why the place is often described as the cradle of Slovenian culture or even the Athens of Slovenia. Primož Trubar was born in Rašica, Fran Levstik was born in Retje and Josip Stritar in Podsmreka. “Velike Lašče is at the heart of the region where the most correct and attractive Slovenian is spoken,” said Fran Levstik. These places inspired our great men to set the foun-dations of Slovenian literature with their works and in this way placed our language on the map together with other nations. The villages where the men were born have been joined since 1978 by the circular Cultural Path of Velike Lašče.

The rolling path led me to Rašica. In the dark Middle Ages you would have to pay a levy here as it is the place where a tollhouse used to stand. When my steps fell quiet, I brought time to a standstill for a moment. The wheels of the old Temkov mill continued to turn. This is the place where five hundred years ago Primož Trubar was born to a miller and carpenter. Trubar is the central figure in the history of the Slovenian nation, he is the father of the Slovenian language, a protes-tant priest, reformer, writer and translator. Following the protestant principle that God’s word must be brought to the people in their own language, Trubar wrote the first Slovenian books. In 1550, his two books, the Katekizm and the Abecednik were published in Germany. He went on to write over 20 more books. Primož Trubar proved five hundred years ago that our nation is capable of living on an equal footing with other European nations.

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The path turned into a dark forest. Voices in the forest evoked legends about Turks, who used to pillage our land. On the stone plate in front of the entrance to the church in Velika Slevica, there are still traces of the horse-shoe and whip of a Turkish pasha. A little further on, the village of Podsmreka nestles among the meadows. This is where the next great Slovenian was born, the poet, writer, critic and essayist Josip Stritar. The house where he was born no longer stands. He mentions these parts in his poem The Turks in Slevica:

Across the threshold on a horse he roars,oh woe, who other but a Turkish pasha,a bloody sword in his hand he swings,your hour at last has come!

I continued on my way along cart-tracks. The Turkish incursions caused much suffering in this land so it is not surprising that poets and writers wrote much about them. In Retje there is a hayrick, “Ilijev kozolec” which has a thatched roof. Fran Levstik, the final of the three important Slovenians from Velike Lašče, wrote the famous tale about Martin Krpan under this 200 year old hayrick.

Fifteen kilometres of Slovenian cultural history are behind me. I am again at the beginning, where everything started – in Primož Trubar’s home village. It is probably no coincidence that near the places where Trubar, Stritar and Levstik once lived, the European footpaths E6 and E7 cross. “Whoever walks is ahead of time. Whoever walks along

footpaths is several decades ahead of his time. Whoever walks along the Slovenian part of the European footpaths is already a quarter of a century ahead of time” is the motto of “European” hikers. And whoever walks along the Cultural Path of Velike Lašče cannot avoid remembering the 500th anniversary of the birth of one of the most important persons who set the foundations for the shaping of the Slov-enian nation. A

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