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The skincare ingredients you should look for,according to your skin type

DECEMBER 5, 2018 (HTTPS://WWW.LAVENDEROOM.COM/THE-SKINCARE-INGREDIENTS-YOU-SHOULD-LOOK-FOR/) |BY APARRNA GUPTA (HTTPS://WWW.LAVENDEROOM.COM/AUTHOR/LAVENDEROOM_ADMIN/) |SKINCARE (HTTPS://WWW.LAVENDEROOM.COM/CATEGORY/SKINCARE/)

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You may have heard of the importance of reading the ingredient list before buying a new beautyproduct—considering that it is among the first thing that any beauty enthusiast is currentlytalking about. But it’s safe to say that reading back labels is becoming a tricky businessnowadays,  especially when the green wave has taken over the  skincare(https://www.vogue.in/topics/skin-care/) industry. Just because some chemicals have earned abad rep for themselves, there is a growing fear towards scientific-sounding ingredients in ourskincare formulations. Doesn’t sugarcane extract sound ‘safer’ than a glycolic peel? But scratchdeeper and you realise that a glycolic peel is derived from sugarcane extracts. Let’s face it, not all ofus are scientific ninjas and anything that sounds unfamiliar, or like it may be laden withchemicals, makes us vary. We spoke to leading  skincare experts(https://www.vogue.in/content/skincare-experts-from-8-countries-reveal-their-best-cleansing-secrets/) to get a lowdown on what you should look for in your skincare formulations, for differentskin types and skin needs. Here’s what we found.

 

The best skincare ingredients for dry skin

Ever wondered how a baby’s skin always looks so dewy and soft? It’s because babies are born witha high level of hyaluronic acid, which keeps their skin plump and  smooth(https://www.vogue.in/content/skincare-products-exfoliating-face-scrubs-thatll-give-you-smooth-skin-in-minutes/). Unfortunately, the amount in our skin diminishes with age, most significantlyafter age 40. Because hyaluronic acid can boost skin’s moisture content, soothe and protect againstmoisture loss, this is one of the most tried and tested ingredients in serums, night creams andmoisturisers. It is capable of holding up to 1,000 times its own weight in water, making it anoptimal hydrator for all skin types, especially dry skin. And its antioxidant character saves the skinfrom effects of environmental pollution and even photo-ageing too.

Next in line in the world of hydrating and plumping skincare are ceramides. These are lipids (fats)found naturally in high concentrations in the uppermost layers of the skin. They make up for over50 per cent of the skin’s composition, and hold the skin cells together, forming a protective layerthat holds moisture. In moisturisers and night creams, they are added to help refresh the skin’sown ceramide levels. They’re also sometimes combined with enhancers such as liposomes, to helptheir absorption into the skin. People who have eczema have fewer ceramides in the outer layer oftheir skin when compared to people with normal skin, so ceramide-potent beauty formulationshelp them recover.

When you yearn for a powerhouse ingredient to deliver hydration, opt for squalene, recommendsDr Malvika Kohli, aesthetic dermatologist and consultant at Breach Candy and Jaslok Hospitals.Squalene is a colourless poly-unsaturated hydrocarbon liquid that’s naturally found in manyanimals and plants, including human sebum.  It’s commonly harvested from plant sources likeolives, wheat germ oil and rice bran. They’re natural emollients, so they’re known to help preventfine lines and ease dry patches.

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Kohli mentions that phospholipids  are one of nature’s most powerful humectants. They occurnaturally in the skin to protect the dermal layer from external stressors including wind, sun andchemicals by locking in moisture. Studies have shown that topically applied phospholipids, derivedfrom soy lecithin, are very effective in enhancing the skin’s ability to retain moisture and protectagainst external factors. “Isosorbide Dicaprylate and Saccharide Isomerate help improve skinbarrier function and restore oil water balance,” adds Kohli.

The best skincare ingredients for oily, acne-prone skin

While oily skin is prone to  acne (https://www.vogue.in/content/3-tried-and-tested-skincare-formulas-that-zap-adult-acne-instantly/), it is not without benefits. Even though the oil contentcan lead to breakouts, it can also protect the skin from the first signs of ageing. Appropriate care ofoily skin ensures that acne attack is kept at a distance. Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, founder andmedical director, ISAAC, informs that salicylic acid is one of the best ingredients to control andtreat oily skin. Also called a beta hydroxy acid (BHA), salicylic acid exfoliates and cleans the poresfrom within. It is especially effective for reducing breakouts, including blackheads andwhiteheads, while its soothing properties can help calm aggravated skin as well.

Don’t erroneously assume that acids refer to harsh synthetics. Gupta explains, “Lactic acidexfoliates and hydrates the skin at the same time and is often used for its nourishing benefits.Azelaic acid helps to reduce post acne erythema, treats acne and reduces post acne marks.”

Clays such as Kaolin and bentonite help absorb excess sebum and lend a mattifying effect to thecomplexion. And when it comes to daily hydration, those with shiny skin should stick with an oil-free  moisturiser (https://www.vogue.in/content/vogue-tries-it-5-body-moisturisers-that-guarantee-smooth-skin/)  that uses dimethicone, which doesn’t clog pores. Kohli adds,“Dimethicone imitates oils, leaving skin feeling healthy yet matte. Creams containing myrtacineand niacinamide help prevent active breakouts.”

The best skincare ingredients for dull, pigmented skin

“For  reducing pigmentation (https://www.vogue.in/content/ask-an-expert-what-is-skin-pigmentation-and-how-to-reduce-it/) and brighter skin, use night serums containing glutathioneand Vitamin C 20%, Kojic acid and liquorice.” As Kojic acid inhibits the production of melanin, it isa popular ingredient in lightening creams and lotions. Derived from fungi, it’s a by-product of thefermentation process of certain foods, including Japanese sake, soy sauce, and rice wine.

Creams with alpha-hydroxy acids such as glycolic, lactic and citric acids may help with finelines,  irregular pigmentation and age spots, and may help shrink enlarged pores. Side effects ofusing alpha-hydroxy acids include mild irritation and sun sensitivity, but any damage can beavoided by religiously applying sunscreen. Start by using a product with a maximumconcentration of 10 per cent to 15 per cent AHA every alternate day. Gradually work up to dailyapplication.

The best skincare ingredients for sensitive skin

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“Calendula and chamomile extracts, hyaluronic acid, turmeric and  aloe vera(https://www.vogue.in/content/what-to-keep-in-mind-when-shopping-for-pure-aloe-vera-gel/) areingredients that sensitive skin loves—look for these on the label at the back,” suggests cosmeticchemist, Dr Aneesh Sheth. Curcumin (extracted from turmeric) is now graduating from grandma’skitchen to become a regular feature at pharmacy stores because of its antioxidant, antimicrobialand anti-inflammatory properties. “Lactic acid, mandelic acid, oat oil and hyaluronic acid are greatfor sensitive skin. Lately, cannabis or CBD (which is a non-psychoactive component of cannabisoil), is emerging as a new super ingredient in skincare. It is showing amazing results in treatingpsoriasis and eczema.”

The best skincare ingredients for ageing skin

Skin-replenishing ingredients revive the skin’s surface by supplying long-lasting infusions ofhydration. This helps skin look and feel soft, smooth and supple. With continuous use, theseingredients help skin resist moisture loss and maintain an enviably smooth, plump appearance.Simply put, the skin appears younger. One of the most popular among these is hyaluronic acid,which is often touted for its ability to ‘reverse’ or stop ageing, and is regarded as the elixir to youth.Skincare products containing this substance are often used with  Vitamin C(https://www.vogue.in/content/vitamin-c-benefits-for-skin-skincare-tips/)  products to assist ineffective penetration. The combination of hyaluronic acid with Vitamin C and retinol is a potentblend to keep wrinkles and dullness at bay, states Kohli. She adds, “Keep an eye out for creamscontaining peptides—Penta peptides, Hexapeptides (for Botox-like effect) and Copper Peptides, asthese amino acids are the building blocks of collagen.” Studies have shown that copper peptidepromotes collagen and elastin production, acts as an antioxidant, and promotes production ofhyaluronic acid. It also helps to firm, smooth and soften skin, and does it in less time than mostother anti-ageing skincare products.

Glycolic acid, one of the most effective and well-researched forms of AHA, is a gentle exfoliant thatreduces fine lines and dark spots. Extracted from sugar cane, glycolic acid softens the appearanceof fine lines and wrinkles—yes, even the deep ones.

If you are looking to counter the first signs of ageing, Dr Gupta recommends using retinol-basedproducts. “Retinol or Vitamin A molecule is a skin-restoring, wrinkle-smoothing, firmingingredient, as well as an antioxidant that improves a variety of skin concerns, most related tovisible signs of ageing. It increases skin cell turnover and stimulates collagen synthesis. Ferulicacid enhances effects of retinol, prevents sun damage and protects collagen.” For retinol to remaineffective, look for opaque and air-tight packaging.

The article was first published in www.Vogue.in (https://www.vogue.in/content/the-skincare-ingredients-you-should-look-for-according-to-your-skin-type/)

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Neelam SethDecember 10, 2018 at 10:55 am (https://www.lavenderoom.com/the-skincare-ingredients-you-should-look-for/#comment-561)

Very penetrating and analytical

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Aparrna Gupta (http://aparrnagupta.com/)December 19, 2018 at 9:24 pm (https://www.lavenderoom.com/the-skincare-ingredients-you-should-look-for/#comment-574)

thank you

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Alka GuptaDecember 10, 2018 at 12:04 pm (https://www.lavenderoom.com/the-skincare-ingredients-you-should-look-for/#comment-562)

Lovely write up….so well researched

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