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    The Abrasion Characteristics of Ring Spunand Open-End Yarns

    Eric D. Bryan,Chongwen Yu

    &

    William Oxenham

    Department of Textile and ApparelTechnology and Management

    College of TextilesNorth Carolina State University

    12thEFS Systems ForumNovember 4-5, 1999, Raleigh, N.C.

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    Abstract

    There is a general opinion that open end spun cotton yarns are more

    abrasive than their ring spun counterparts. The major evidence for the

    differences between the two yarn types is the supposed greater attrition suffered

    by machinery parts (such as knitting needles) when processing rotor yarns. While

    these opinions are founded on the claims from the industry, there is little

    published data to support these views.

    The paper describes an investigation into the role of spinning technique on

    the abrasiveness of yarns. Open-end yarns produced at different production

    speeds were compared with the equivalent ring spun yarns using a Lawson-

    Hemphill CTT tester. The abrasiveness was assessed by running the yarn over a

    wire and determining the length of yarn needed to break the wire.

    The role of fiber type, machine type, production speed, and twist level are

    assessed and the results from the tests are collated with data obtained from tests

    on "commercial" yarns, which were obtained from the industry.

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    Introduction:

    The Constant Tension Transport (CTT), developed by Lawson-Hemphill,

    is a versatile machine that allows a variety of yarn tests to be run just by utilizing

    different attachments. With these additions, the CTT is able to run the following

    tests:

    Yarn-to-yarn friction;

    Yarn-to-metal friction;

    Yarn on metal abrasion;

    Lint generation; and

    Breaking strength.

    The above list only names a few of the CTTs capabilities. The machine is

    also unique because of its ability to keep the input tension constant throughout a

    particular test. The input tension can be set to the desired tension, in grams, and

    a lever arm adjusts/corrects for any changes in tension as the yarn is removed

    from the package. The test speed and the percent elongation imposed on the

    yarn are also adjustable.

    For this research, the attachment for testing yarn on metal abrasion was

    used. This attachment allows the yarn to pass over a copper wire and the

    machine measures the meters of yarn needed to break the wire. A weight is

    used to keep a preset tension on the copper wire. Figure 1 is a photograph of

    the CTT with the yarn abrasion attachment connected. Figure 2 is a close up of

    the abrasion attachment.

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    Figure 1: CTT with abrasion attachment.

    Figure 2: Abrasion attachment

    The attachment to the right of the abrasion attachment is a tensiometer,

    which can be used to measure the output tension of the yarn. Figure 3 is a

    diagram of the abrasion attachment. The yarn comes in under Tension 1which

    is held constant by the CTT, then passes over the first frictionless pulley. From

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    that point, the yarn runs across the copper wire and then over the second pulley.

    The yarn leaves the attachment under Tension 2, which is then measured by the

    tensiometer.

    Experimental Design:

    In order to set up a standard with which to compare ring and rotor yarns,

    a series of trials were run with different yarns. Possible variables for the testing

    procedure were 1) yarn speed, 2) yarn tension, and 3) weight on the copper wire.

    During the preliminary trials one variable was changed while the other two were

    kept constant. This was done in order to achieve a standard which takes a

    reasonable time but is not too lengthy. The conditions also had to be

    acceptable for all yarns.

    For the first set of tests, the yarn tension was changed, and the yarn

    speed and weight on the copper wire were kept constant. Yarns were tested at

    tensions from 40 grams to 70 grams in 10-gram increments. During the second

    Rollers

    CopperWire

    Yarn

    Tension 1 Tension2

    Figure 3

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    set of tests, the weight applied to the copper wire was changed and the speed

    and input tension were kept constant. The weight on the wire was changed

    between 100 and 300 grams. The final tests kept the input tension and the wire

    weight constant and changed the yarn/test speed. The three test speeds used

    were 180, 270, and 360 meters/minute.

    From considerations of the time required for testing and the ability of all

    yarns to be tested under these standard conditions, the following conditions

    were adopted for all future comparison trials:

    Test Speed 360 m/min Input Tension 60 grams

    Weight on Wire 200 grams

    Yarn Production:

    All the yarns used for testing were produced in the Short Staple Spinning

    Lab at the College of Textiles. Only new, 100% cotton was used to produce the

    sliver for the rotor yarns, as well as the roving for the ring yarns. For the open-

    end yarns, several different rotor speeds were used on both the Rieter and

    Schlafhorst spinning frames. The Schlafhorst yarns were spun using five different

    rotor speeds. The slowest was 80K and the speeds were increased by 10K up to

    the fastest of 120K. The Rieter yarns had rotor speeds of 60K, 72K, 80K, 92K,

    102.8K, 110K, and 122K. The same rotor size was used on both machines, and

    ring spun yarns of the same count were produced for comparison. All yarns had

    an approximate linear density of 20/1 Ne.

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    Results of Typical Yarn Testing:

    The ring and rotor yarns were all tested on the USTER 3, Tensojet, and

    the Tensorapid. The yarns were then compared to each other according to

    evenness and strength. From the following two graphs it can be seen that the

    yarns from the Rieter and Schlafhorst machines are very close in both evenness

    and strength.

    Evenness (%CV) of Schlafhorst & RieterYarns

    12.5

    13

    13.5

    14

    14.5

    15

    50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130

    Rotor Speed (*1000)

    Evenness(%C

    V)

    Rieter (dashed)

    Schlafhorst

    Comparison of Tenacity Values

    77.5

    88.5

    99.510

    10.511

    11.512

    12.513

    13.514

    60 70 80 90 100 110 120Rotor Speed (*1000)

    Ten

    acityMean(cN/tex)

    Rieter Tensojet Schlafhorst TensojetRieter Tensorapid Schlaforst Tensorapid

    Figure 4

    Figure 5

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    frames. The single point in the bottom left corner is an average of all the ring

    Schlafhorst Yarn vs. Rieter Yarn

    R2= 0.9473

    R2= 0.089

    4300

    4500

    4700

    4900

    5100

    5300

    5500

    5700

    60K

    72K

    80K

    90K

    92K

    100K

    102.8K

    110K

    120K

    122K

    Rotor Speed

    AbrasionLength(meters)

    Schlafhorst Yarn, 360 m/min, 60 grams

    Rieter Yarn, 360 m/min, 60 gramsRing Spun, 360 m/min, 60 grams

    spun yarns tested. It can be seen that rotor speed does have an effect on

    abrasiveness. It is a little more noticeable with the Rieter yarns than with the

    Schlafhorst yarns but they both show an increase in abrasiveness as the rotor

    speed increases. It can also be seen that the Schlafhorst yarns were the least

    abrasive, but both sets of rotor yarns (with the exception of the Rieter yarns

    above 102K), were better than the comparable ring spun yarns.

    The graph labeled as Figure 8 shows the relationship between belts and

    rotor speed. There is a noticeable trend in the Rieter yarns that shows an

    increase in the extent of belts as the rotor speed increases. This trend cannot be

    generalized, however, since the same trend is not seen in the Schlafhorst yarns.

    Figure 7

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    Figure 8: Belts vs. Rotor Speed

    2

    3

    4

    5

    6

    7

    8

    50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130

    Rotor Speed (*1000)

    Belts(mm/c

    m)

    Schlafhorst

    Rieter (triangle)

    Figure 9 relates abrading length and belts. The abrading lengths of the

    yarns from the two spinning systems are fairly close but the Rieter yarns again

    seem to show a trend that is not evident in the Schlafhorst yarns. As the extent

    of the belts increases, the Rieter yarns became more abrasive, i.e. the abrading

    length decreased. The Schlafhorst yarns did not show a definite trend; therefore

    this phenomenon cannot be generalized for all yarns.

    Figure 9: ABRADING LENGTH vs. BELTS

    4400

    4600

    4800

    5000

    5200

    5400

    5600

    2 3 4 5 6 7 8

    BELTS (mm/cm)

    ABRADINGLENGTH

    SCHLAFHORST (square)

    RIETER

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    Figure 10, shows the effect twist has on the abrasiveness of ring spun

    yarns. Yarns were spun with various amounts of twist ranging from 15.5 tpi to 22

    tpi.

    Figure 10: Effect of Twist

    4000

    5000

    6000

    7000

    8000

    9000

    14 16 18 20 22 24Twist (tpi)

    AbrasionLength(m)

    The graph shows that for the range of twists utilized, there appears to be a

    general trend that as the twist increases the abrasion length increases. In other

    words, the yarns become less abrasive as the twist per inch increases.

    Conclusions:

    It is apparent from the data presented that the two rotor spinning

    machines produce yarns with different properties and while one may exhibit a

    trend, this cannot be generally accepted as being true for all rotor yarns. The

    different trends exhibited by the different spinning machines are not totally

    unexpected but at this stage no satisfactory explanation can be proposed.

    Perhaps the most challenging result to explain, particularly in the light of

    supposed claims from the industry, is that for the cotton fiber used in the

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    present trial there is no evidence of any significant difference in the

    abrasiveness of rotor and ring spun yarns, and any difference which exists

    tends to indicate that rotor yarns are superior (should give less abrasion of

    machine components).

    It has been claimed that a possible reason for differences between ring

    and rotor yarns could be associated with silica content in the yarn. Samples of

    each type of yarn were evaluated by ITC (Texas) and no evidence of silica was

    found in any of the samples.

    It is obvious that the results reported, seem to be contrary to expected

    trends. While the role of twist seems strange (since it is assumed that higher

    twist is associated with hard or harsh hand) the evidence is clearly showing the

    opposite trend.