a short trip in search of the endemics of the western ghats · a short trip in search of the...

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A short trip in search of the endemics of the Western Ghats of Kerala & Tamil Nadu Fri 10 th Fri 17 th March 2017 Peregrine Rowse: Inholmes atBTinternet.com Black and orange Flycatcher, Munnar; one of three flycatchers endemic to the Western Ghats The Western Ghats, a string of ancient mountains that flank the entire west coast of peninsula India, offer the enthusiast of the Sub-continent’s birds a fantastic treasure of riches. There are c. 25 species endemic to the Western Ghats (WGE in the list below); this great area also holds a further c. 30 species which are endemic to the Peninsula of the Sub-continent (PIE below), which I have taken as south of the Tropic of Cancer, and a dozen species which I have classified as Localised Winter Visitors (LWV). There are also some more widespread species, such as Spot bellied Eagle Owl that are probably easier to see here than elsewhere. No fewer than a quarter of the species I saw were endemic to the Western Ghats or Peninsula India. Vigors’s Sunbird is also endemic to the northern Western Ghats outs ide the scope of this report. A list of 203 species recorded in the week follows as well as notes on a dozen species not seen that occur in the Western Ghats. The timing of my trip was determined by business commitments elsewhere in India. Most birders visit in the November to February period. With the exception of Kashmir Flycatcher and Blyth’s Pipit all the winterers seemed to be present. Many of the Robins are in stunning breeding plumage at this time and some of the local residents were conspicuous as they had just started breeding. I flew from Mumbai to Kochi and returned from Coimbatore to Mumbai. I arranged this trip through Birds Kerala run by Thomas Zacharias of Kalypso Adventures. He was quick and efficient to deal with and knows what birders want; I have no hesitation in recommending him. I was guided by Jijo Mathew who is a well known and respected

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Page 1: A short trip in search of the endemics of the Western Ghats · A short trip in search of the endemics of the Western Ghats ... was now raining hard and we had no luck. ... to find

A short trip in search of the endemics of the

Western Ghats of Kerala & Tamil Nadu

Fri 10th – Fri 17th March 2017

Peregrine Rowse: Inholmes ‘at’ BTinternet.com

Black and orange Flycatcher, Munnar; one of three flycatchers endemic to the Western Ghats

The Western Ghats, a string of ancient mountains that flank the entire west coast of peninsula India, offer the enthusiast of the Sub-continent’s birds a fantastic treasure of riches. There are c. 25 species endemic to the Western Ghats (WGE in the list below); this great area also holds a further c. 30 species which are endemic to the Peninsula of the Sub-continent (PIE below), which I have taken as south of the Tropic of Cancer, and a dozen species which I have classified as Localised Winter Visitors (LWV). There are also some more widespread species, such as Spot bellied Eagle Owl that are probably easier to see here than elsewhere. No fewer than a quarter of the species I saw were endemic to the Western Ghats or Peninsula India. Vigors’s Sunbird is also endemic to the northern Western Ghats outside the scope of this report. A list of 203 species recorded in the week follows as well as notes on a dozen species not seen that occur in the Western Ghats. The timing of my trip was determined by business commitments elsewhere in India. Most birders visit in the November to February period. With the exception of Kashmir Flycatcher and Blyth’s Pipit all the winterers seemed to be present. Many of the Robins are in stunning breeding plumage at this time and some of the local residents were conspicuous as they had just started breeding. I flew from Mumbai to Kochi and returned from Coimbatore to Mumbai. I arranged this trip through Birds Kerala run by Thomas Zacharias of Kalypso Adventures. He was quick and efficient to deal with and knows what birders want; I have no hesitation in recommending him. I was guided by Jijo Mathew who is a well known and respected

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guide in this area who knows where the key species are and how to find them. Likewise, I strongly recommend him. We drove a total of 1000km this trip.

Friday 10th March Mumbai to Hornbill Camp, Thattekkad, Kerala I got a 5:30am Air India flight to Kochi which was 1hr 50 mins in the air. The flight was punctual and I was met efficiently by my driver Joji getting through the airport in twenty minutes. It was a two hour drive to Thattekkad through lush but heavily populated and cultivated (mainly rubber and pineapple) country. We met Jijo in Thattekkad village and drove the short distance to Hornbill Camp. This is in a lovely location on the Periyar River overlooking the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary. The accommodation is in permanent walk-in tents. It was about 30C and quite humid. We set out at 10am for a two hour birding session before the real heat of the day. Bird activity was already falling off fast. First we tried some bamboo clumps bordering the village football pitch for a roosting Indian Scops Owl without luck but had a nice Drongo Cuckoo. We walked in a degraded secondary forest patch near a tourist resort appropriately called Sparrow Valley quickly finding Grey fronted Green Pigeons and a couple of lovely Orange headed Thrush. Jijo had a staked out Brown wood Owl nest with a well grown chick; we had great views of both the chick in its nest hole and an adult bird. We found the striking Large billed leaf Warbler, gorgeous Blue throated blue Flycatcher and a Paradise Flycatcher.

Brown Wood Owl chick Orange headed Thrush Indian Pitta

Best of all we heard and tracked down two cracking Indian Pitta. As Pittas go they were reasonably confiding but as always getting half decent photos through the tangle of vegetation was tricky. We also had nice views of the attractive, very white headed Malabar Starling which appeared to be nesting. We heard Heart spotted Woodpecker, Red Spurfowl

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and Grey Junglefowl which promises more treats to come. We were back at the camp at 12 o’clock by which time it was pretty hot and the humidity was really building.

Malabar Starling, Thattekkad

At 3pm tremendously heavy rain and a thunderstorm started. This is what is known as the Summer or Mango rains which last a couple of weeks and started only a few days ago; they trigger the beginning of a lot of bird breeding activity. We set out at 4pm in heavy rain that slackened and by 4:30 had just about ceased. Our first stop was a Mottled wood Owl stake out in a rubber tree plantation. The birds were very shy and unsettled so we didn’t approach too closely and I wasn’t able to get photos. The storm had forced down hundreds of Brown backed Needletails which raced through the air not much above head height which was an impressive sight. Along a canal embankment we failed to find the Blyth’s Pipits that have wintered here; Jijo thought they had moved off with the recent rain. We did see the interesting babbler-like Broad billed Warbler, several Booted Warbler, a fly-over Lesser whistling Duck and the tiny Crimson backed Sunbird. A marshy area below the embankment held c. 10 Pin tailed Snipe and a few Wood Sandpipers.

View of the Periyar River from Hornbill Camp, Thattekkad

As dusk fell we waited on the bridge over the Periyar River with Little Swifts hunting over the water and a scarce group of Pintail flying over. Out target here was the spectacular Great eared Nightjar. It had started raining again and the conditions were far from ideal. We did however get brief flight views of this surprisingly large bird and had huge orange eyeshine, like a pair of headlights, from a bird perched in the top of a tall tree. Our last stop, in pitch darkness, was a bushy area for Jerdon’s Nightjar but it was now raining hard and we had no luck. We were back at camp at 8pm.

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Saturday 11th March Hornbill Camp, Thattekkad We headed out at 6am for the Urulanthanni forest only 17km from Thattekkad but about an hour’s drive away. We were birding by 7:30. It wasn’t raining but was incredibly misty with a flat grey light that made birding tricky until the mist burnt off at about 8:30. We were birding from an area of huge rocky outcrops surrounded by forest below which afforded great views. Superb birds came thick and fast as well as two nice mammals – Bonnet Macaque and the stunning, purple backed Malabar Giant Squirrel. On the bird front the endemics were White bellied blue Flycatcher, the cracking and common Flame throated Bulbul, the rather nondescript Nilgiri Flowerpecker, the characterful Lesser Hill Myna, White rumped Spinetail zipping overhead and good numbers of Malabar Barbets, the males with bright red faces. After a bit of searching we found the lovely, diminutive Heart spotted Woodpecker that gave reasonable views but was rather distant for photography. It was nice to see the subtle but attractive Brown breasted Flycatcher with its large head & eye and prominent eyering in a side-by-side comparison with the smaller, greyer Asian brown Flycatcher. We failed to find a Rusty tailed Flycatcher seen here yesterday. I had a flyover Asian fairy Bluebird and a couple of rather unsatisfactory flight views of the huge White bellied Woodpecker but I did at least get the striking flame red crown. A roosting pair of Sri Lanka Frogmouths here were also a treat.

Malabar Giant Squirrel, Thattekkad

Sri Lanka Frogmouth Grey Junglefowl

As we were about to leave Jijo got a call from a guide leading a group of Indian photographers. He had found a roosting Sri Lanka Bay Owl. We rushed to the spot to find this fantastic bird fast asleep but right in the open providing a great photo op. What a brilliant bird and another of my top targets. Other good birds were Grey fronted green Pigeon, Golden fronted Leafbird, Malabar Starling, Blue throated blue Flycatcher, Drongo Cuckoo and Chestnut headed Bee-eater. We also had nice sightings of the attractive, endemic Malabar Parakeet and the impressive Greater Flameback. All in all it was a really great morning with a superb caste of birds. Yesterday Jijo saw Blue eared kingfisher on the stream here which is a scarce and seldom seen bird. We were back at camp at 11:30. Over lunch I saw a great Black Baza and Crested Hawk Eagle from the camp. We reconvened at 3pm for an afternoon birding session in secondary forest around Thattekkad village. For some complicated reason that I didn’t really follow, that seemed to be a turf war between researchers, forest guards and bird guides the bird sanctuary named in memory of India’s most famous ornithologist is closed to birders and commercial bird guides – only in !ncredible India. This means that all the birding we did was not in the sanctuary itself.

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Our first target was Red Spurfowl which was incredibly secretive giving only fleeting glimpses until later in the afternoon I saw three together rather briefly. We found the lovely White bellied Treepie in this area and most unexpectedly an immature male Malabar Trogon. We also saw several Common Hawk Cuckoos here as well as attractive Orange headed

Thrushes. Other good birds included a cracking male Blue naped Monarch, some Ashy Woodswallows, and a Brown Shrike. We then moved to an open rocky area beside the road and had great views of some pretty stunning Grey Junglefowl. We then went to the Periyar bridge for dusk. It was a perfect nightjar evening – still and warm, unlike yesterday. Shortly after dusk we had some nice but slightly distant views of at least two Great eared Nightjars and there were several calling. We drove the short distance to the Jerdon’s Nightjar area, where we failed yesterday, and had stunning views of a couple of perched birds.

Sunday 12th March Hornbill Camp, Thattekkad We set off shortly after 6am for the lovely Idamalayar valley about ¾ hour drive (24km) away. The road winds through forested hills to a dam which is closed to the public apparently to hide the incompetence of the water board who administer it. This means there is no traffic at all and walking along the road is easy, peaceful and provides great birding. We walked slowly down the road for a couple of Km’s. It was exciting to suddenly realise that there were two female Elephants with well grown calves feeding in roadside bushes about 80m in front of us. They are so unobtrusive it is incredible. The Elephants seemed completely unaware of us. Apparently the elephants are not as dangerous here as in North Eastern India.

We also saw Bonnet Macaques and a single Malabar Giant Squirrel and heard Nilgiri Langur here. We also saw several Three striped Palm Squirrels. Almost as soon as we got out of the car we found a perched juvenile Legges’ Hawk Eagle. I had another better fly-by Fairy Bluebird, and several Thick billed Warblers; this bird looked much paler than the rain drenched bird I saw two days ago. Other nice new and repeat birds were Blue naped Monarch, Vernal hanging Parrot, Malabar Parakeet, Malabar Starling, Jungle Owlet, three brown capped pygmy Woodpeckers together and a couple of Dark fronted Babblers. With quite a bit of effort we only got fair views of a secretive Rufous Babbler skulking in roadside tangles. As were made our way to the end of the road and the gates to the dam we added a lovely Malabar whistling Thrush, Little Spiderhunter, further White bellied Treepies and had cracking prolonged views of Blue Malkoha as well as a Rusty tailed Flycatcher. We also found a couple of rather nondescript Malabar Woodshrike but we failed to find or hear the Grey headed Bulbul we were hoping for. We started the return drive back at 9:45 after a great 2¾ hrs birding in a lovely place. A quick stop at a pond near the Periyar River barrage yielded c. 50 Lesser whistling Duck, a Moorhen and Dabchick. We walked across the barrage but didn’t see anything of note. We were back at camp by 10:50 by which time it was very hot. I went out for a forty minute wander but saw little apart from a nice Bronze winged Jacana. We set back out again at 3:15. We drove 45 minutes to a bridge higher up the Periyar River and then on a couple of Km’s to a forested stream beside the road; this is a stake out for Grey headed Bulbul. We found two birds quickly but they were sitting quietly in the canopy not doing much so didn’t provide a very rewarding view. We also had a Western crowned Warbler here, pale grey white below, faintly streaked crown and pale bill but it too was rather high in the canopy. We also saw another nice Brown breasted Flycatcher here.

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Brown breasted Flycatcher White cheeked Barbet

We then drove back to the Periyar bridge near Thattekkad and walked c. 1 km along the bank through forest to a place where a contact of Jijo’s had seen Malay Night Heron in living memory. Jijo hasn’t seen one for several years so it really is a long shot. This was a nice spot overlooking the river where a now defunct tourist camp had once been located. En route through the forest we had another Blue faced Malkoha, Grey Junglefowl and Imperial green Pigeons. We waited for an hour or so until dusk enjoying the peaceful fall of darkness. Just at dusk a small chestnut heron flew by in front of us; our hearts leapt into our mouths as we momentarily thought we had found a mega scarce Night Heron; almost immediately we realised our mistake; it was a Cinnamon Bittern, still a great bird to see and a short while later we had a cracking view of a Black Bittern in the torch light. This bird is seldom seen in Kerala and barely mapped for the South of India by Grimmett. As we were about to leave a short burst of a tape produced a great Indian Scops Owl right above our heads. We were back at Hornbill Camp at 7:50.

Monday 13th March Thattekkad to Abad Green Forest Hotel, Thekkady

Over breakfast in the nice Hornbill Camp I had a stunning male white phase Paradise Flycatcher. Indian Scops Owls were calling above my tent all night. We left at 7:30 for the 4+ hours’ drive through attractive forested hills passing through tea gardens and cardamom groves to the Abad Green Forest Hotel on the edge of Kumily town for the Thekkady entrance

Munnar Hills

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gate to Periyar National Park. We stopped for half an hour by an upper dam on the Periyar River in the hope of a Fish Eagle but we didn’t see much. W got to the comfortable hotel at 12:00. I had a pleasant buffet lunch accompanied a by a big French tour group. It is a very pleasant temperature here at 1000m altitude. At 2:30 we went to the park entrance a few hundred metres from the hotel which is literally on the edge of town. Here we enjoyed all the usual ticketing and

form filling nonsense associated with a visit to an Indian National Park. We are doing the Green Walk to a narrow valley with bamboo covered hillsides where Wynaard laughing Thrush can be found. Unfortunately the usually reliable Oriental Scops Owl roosting trees near the park entrance proved blank. Just as we got into the park it started to rain heavily. Luckily we had umbrellas and leech socks. The park is 800 sq km and is thought to hold 40 - 45 Tigers but we went no further than 200m from the perimeter fence and waited overlooking the bamboo clad hillside. In the rain nothing was calling or moving so it was rather depressing. After two hours the rain stopped but there was no sight or sound of the Laughing Thrushes. I was back to the hotel at 6pm after an extremely underwhelming day; staring in the rain at empty bamboo for hours isn’t much fun. The leeches were also a bit of a nightmare. I was issued with leech socks so my legs were protected but I picked scores off; however I managed to get one under my watch strap and another on my neck. Both bites bled profusely and itched for more than a week. We did see a few Nilgiri Langur high in treetops and a single Sambar. The Langur are completely black with a grey rough round the edge of their face. We were due to walk in another area of the park tomorrow morning to try for Giant

Hornbill, Forest Wagtail and other birds but Jijo called me to say he has been able to change our tickets so we can try for the Laughing Thrushes again. As we left the park this evening we saw an interesting Paradise Flycatcher. It was a red phase bird but the basal 2/3 rds of the tail was white and the terminal 1/3 red; I don’t think I have seen a mixed red and white phase bird before. The Abad hotel was comfortable.

Tuesday 14th March Thekkady to Olive Grove Resort, Munnar We were at the park entrance at 7:15 on a glorious, cool but clear morning much more hopeful that we would see some birds. We spent about an hour and a half in the same bamboo area as yesterday afternoon. There were plenty of birds to keep us busy but no sight or sound of the Wynaard Laughing Thrush. I did see a lifer Brown cheeked Fulvetta which is not a particularly interesting bird. We saw lots of other nice stuff including many Western Ghats specialities but it looked distinctly like a mega dip was on the cards. We climbed a steep incline up to a ridge and then went down into the next gully which was much more open and had little if any bamboo. Almost immediately we came across a group of at least five, probably more, Wynaard Laughing Thrushes.

Wynaard Laughing Thrush

They were in open bushes and small trees and were not secretive but they were completely silent which is obviously why we have had such a struggle to find them. I managed some reasonable record shots of them. It was a satisfying result after

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quite a bit of effort. We got back to the hotel at 10:30 to learn that Joji had lost the car keys! The keys were found 1½ hrs later beside the driver’s seat. I’m not sure what Plan B was. We left Kumily at 12:00 immediately on the edge of town crossing the state boundary into Tamil Nadu. We dropped down to a flat, hot, dry plain with a lot of fruit and vegetable cultivation. The area looked less prosperous than the neighbouring areas of Kerala. We stopped at a Hindu temple in farmland and walked a small river of water diverted from the Periyar through the mountain in huge pipes to irrigate the dry east slope of the Ghats. This bluff above the river has been a stake out for Indian Eagle Owl but Jijo hadn’t looked for it here for ages. We weren’t lucky with the Eagle Owl but had a superb pair of Brown Fish Owls. There were also a lot of Booted Warblers and Yellow billed Babblers, with very pale heads, in this dry scrubby area. We drove through the largish town of Cumbum and turned left to climb the steep hairpin road back up the dry east slope of the Ghats that rise dramatically from the plain below. About half way up, by this time about 4pm and pretty hot, we stopped to search the scrubby hillside. This most unspecial habitat quickly yielded a very special bird with a minute distribution: namely Yellow throated Bulbul. We saw several and heard then singing. We also saw White browed Bulbul, Blue rock Thrush and some cracking Common Ioras here.

Yellow throated Bulbul which has a tiny distribution in the Western Ghats

As we reached the watershed we crossed back into Kerala and the more lush western slope with cardamom and tea appearing again. At 5pm we stopped at what should have been a spectacular mountain viewpoint except for the fact it was a disgusting dump of litter, swarming with flies, jettisoned by the tea stalls servicing passing motorists. Despite the mess or maybe because of it, three lifers came in as many minutes – a Nilgiri Pipit which was tame and very obliging, a covey of 5 or 6 Painted Bush Quail which were young birds and came nowhere near the illustration of a fine adult male; they were quite close and tame but it was unedifying seeing them scratching around amongst the litter. Hill Swallows fed on insects over the piles of rubbish. Trash is a major habitat in these parts; we concluded that many of the most sought after species are in fact trash birds. We drove through Munnar crossed the barrage, built in 1944, and climbed the narrow road leading to the attractive Olive Grove. We stopped at a cave beside the road with a small pool in front of it. The light was dying but we had cracking views of a male White bellied blue Robin and a gorgeous male Indian blue Robin as well as several great Nilgiri Flycatchers. Indian Swiftlets were breeding in the cave and zoomed by just feet from our heads. The Olive Brook Resort is an attractive small, old planter’s bungalow. Best of all, they serve beer! Here at 1500m it is decidedly chilly and I needed a sweatshirt eating my supper on the terrace this evening.

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Nilgiri Flycatcher Nilgiri Pipit

Wednesday 15th March Olive Grove Resort, Munnar We set off at 6:30 for the high altitude grassland way above Munnar. In the forest above the hotel on the narrow road that leads up to the Deshadan Resort we found Kerala Laughing Thrush but it was rather high and the views were not very satisfactory. At the top of the road we climbed up the steep slope with waist high coarse elephant grass. We stood on a boulder and scanned the grass for an hour or more hoping for Broad tailed Grassbird; Jijo had said that if they weren’t calling, which they weren’t, our chances were only 5%. In the event in almost three hours of searching we were unlucky and didn’t get a glimpse. Birds up here were very few and far between and very secretive but it was nice to see India tick Grasshopper Warblers, two species of Prinia and nest building Tawny bellied Babblers. We found a mystery Accrocephalus warbler that flummoxed both of us at first. I got some reasonable pics of it that confirmed our suspicions that it was a Paddyfield Warbler which was most unexpected here on a mountainside. We also had a good prolonged view of a fly-by Nilgiri Wood Pigeon. Previously we had accidentally flushed several pigeons before we realised they were sitting unobtrusively in the canopy. On the way back down in a wooded ravine (where I picked up more leeches; this time on my ankles), we found two stunning Black and orange Flycatchers, also nest building. What a superb bird and one of my top targets for the week.

Kerala Laughing Thrush Paddyfield Warbler, unexpected on a mountainside above Munnar

We were back at the hotel at 9:30 for breakfast during which I found several Indian black lored (or yellow) Tit in trees in the hotel garden. We set out at 11am going through Munnar on the road to Eravikulum National Park c. 11km from Munnar, the only place Nilgiri Thar is found. The park is closed in February and March for the Thar calving season so there was no chance to see this endemic mammal. We stopped in heavily degraded habitat where the road crossed a river. This was a stake out for the scarce and difficult Nilgiri Thrush but it seemed a rather unlikely spot and we wondered if Jijo’s informant was mistaken. We hung around for an hour and didn’t see anything of note. We drove on a couple of miles to the park entrance where the stream bed and gully at the very gates to the national park was a disgusting tip of rubbish. Here I photographed a female Indian blue Robin, a Greenish Warbler and a few other things. The highest peak of South India at 2700m towered above us. Access to the peak is forbidden because it is a preserved area.

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Over lunch at the hotel after a brief heavy shower I had a stunning male Blue capped rock Thrush, a male Indian blue Robin and a Puff throated Babbler. We set off at 3pm for a much lower key afternoon. There isn’t that much else to chase here. We birded the forested hillside above the hotel and then the cave entrance but I really concentrated on photographing some of the special birds I had seen previously. We saw two further stunning male Blue capped rock Thrushes, a couple of White bellied blue Robins one of which I photographed in appalling light bathing in the mouth of the cave. I had a nice flock of Kerala Laughing Thrushes in bushes beside the road as well as further Indian blue Robins and a further additional, distant flight view of Nilgiri Wood Pigeon. I found a cracking covey of Painted Bush Quail which included an immaculate male and I managed to get some reasonable shots of them. We were back at the hotel at 5:30.

A stunning pair of chats: Blue capped Rock Thrush and Indian blue Robin

Thursday 16th March Munnar to Meadowview Residency, Ooty As I waited to be picked up at 7am I heard Nilgiri Wood Pigeon calling from the hill above the hotel. Jijo decide that there was time to give it one more try so we drove up to the top of the road and started walking down slowly. It wasn’t long before we found a single pigeon sitting quietly in the under canopy. It was nice to see a perched bird. We also finally managed to see Indian Scimitar Babbler having heard them repeatedly over the last few days. Three Red Spurfowl ran across the road and we had another Blue capped rock Thrush so it was an extremely satisfactory hour or so.

Malabar whistling Thrush

We left on the Eravikulum Rd passing the park entrance again before dropping down into a lovely wide valley carpeted with tea bushes and mauve flowering Jacaranda trees. A little lower in the valley there was coffee cultivation shaded by valuable Sandlewood Trees. We descended lower still coming out of tea country and into the dry deciduous forest of Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary. We got to

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The road from Munnar to Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary through attractive tea estates with flowering Jacaranda trees

the reception office, having stopped for tea, at 10:30 and dealt with the usual bureaucratic nonsense and headed off with two park rangers. Common North India birds such as Hoopoe, Common Woodshrike, Indian Robin & Peafowl swelled our list. I had a brief glimpse of an Indian Pitta but we walked briskly to the place favoured by Spot bellied Eagle Owl. This was tall riverine forest bordering the Chinnar River which wasn’t really much more than a stream. The owl doesn’t roost in the same tree every day but has about ten favoured trees. It wasn’t long however before one of the rangers had located the bird and I was enjoying good views of this spectacular beast. The bird was alert and wakeful and we had to be careful not to accidentally flush it. I got some reasonable pics but the angle and back light were tricky.

We then followed the river for about 1 Km but failed to find the hoped for Blue bearded Bee-eater but found a few other nice things including Stork billed Kingfisher and Tickell’s Flycatcher. I had two nice India mammal ticks (though both occur in Sri Lanka) in the shape of Grizzled Giant Squirrel, which is very scarce and has a very limited distribution in India and Tufted grey Langur. I also photographed Bonnet Macaques bathing in the river which was an unusual and picturesque sight. We were out for two hours and then ate our packed lunch in the reception centre to avoid being pestered by marauding Macaques. We then crossed back into Tamil Nadu passing through the adjoining Anamalai Tiger Reserve before dropping down into a dry, rather grotty plain which had been cleared of trees. Much of the land seemed to have been abandoned and was reverting to a low thorn scrub. The rubbish beside the road has to be seen to be believed – quite disgusting. We stopped very briefly to pay our respects to a Jerdon’s Lark sitting on roadside wires. This area was home to hundreds of wind turbines all of which were idle today. After a while we turned left and started the sharp climb up the east slope of the Ghats. Here we were north of the Palghat Gap, a low breach in the Western Ghats which isolates the Nilgiri Hills and birds like Nilgiri Robin (from White

bellied) and Nilgiri Laughing Thrush (from Kerala Laughing Thrush) so it is a pretty important geographical divide. The dry hillside forest was home to large numbers of Bonnet Macaques hanging about on the roadside for handouts. About 15km before Ooty, by which time we were well back into tea country, Jijo heard Nilgiri Laughing Thrushes from the moving car; we jumped out and had reasonable views. Ooty is a huge, busy and rather grotty looking place. The quaintly named Meadows View Residency where I am staying the night contrary to its name overlooks a petrol station and waste ground used as an unofficial dump.

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Spot bellied Eagle Owl habitat, Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary The rare Indian subspecies of Grizzled Giant Squirrel, Chinnar WS

Friday 17th March Ooty to Coimbatore (and on home) We set off at 7:30 on a cool bright morning for the Botanical Gardens in the centre of town. We found a few new and interesting birds including the sooty grey race of Indian Blackbird, Cinereous Tit, Black and orange Flycatcher, a Peregrine Falcon carrying prey and I got nice photos of a Grey headed Canary Flycatcher bathing. We failed, however, to find the male Kashmir Flycatcher that has wintered here; perhaps it has already migrated north? After an hour and half in the park we went back to the hotel for breakfast setting out again at 9:40 for a ravine with thick bushes and a tiny trickle of a stream a few Km’s out of town. Like so many places in Tamil Nadu we have visited it was a dump but just yards from a busy tea stall and thundering traffic we found a great Nilgiri Robin. Despite being rather shy I got some record shots but in the dark understory I was using ISO 16,000. We crept with maximum stealth through the little ravine striking gold with a fairly good view of an extremely shy Nilgiri Thrush. Our first view was fairly brief but we stalked it again and managed some pretty good views but I wasn’t able to get any photos. I waited ¾ hour hoping for it to emerge again but had no luck.

Bath time for a Grey headed Canary Flycatcher, Ooty Botanical Garden

We then drove to some farmland nearby where Jijo knew there to be a good population of cattle. We didn’t need cow for our trip list but they do attract our next and final target. It wasn’t long before we had delightful White spotted Fantails flicking their huge tails and dancing on the ground just feet in front of us. The only other bird of note here were a couple of Long tailed Shrike. Our final stop was the highest point above Ooty, about 2500m, called the Doddabetta Lookout. It was a bit surreal birding amongst chai and food stalls, vendors hawking tacky soft toys and a large throng of Indian tourists but in this unlikely setting I had six Western Ghats endemics in the shape of a further Nilgiri Robin, a number of Nilgiri Laughing Thrushes, that were feeding very actively and proved, despite being tame, difficult to photograph, four Nilgiri Wood Pigeon as well as Black and Orange Flycatcher and Nilgiri Flycatcher; there was also Grey Junglefowl here. So it was a nice way to finish.

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Nilgiri Laughing Thrush, Ooty White spotted Fantail, Ooty

We set off at 2:15 for the drive to Coimbatore Airport arriving there shortly before 6pm having stopped for lunch and chai breaks. I had a 9pm flight to Mumbai which was punctual, followed by a 2:30am departure on BA to Heathrow. I saw a total of 201 species (plus two heard) though we didn’t spend any time really looking for common North Indian birds. The biggest dip was Blue bearded Bee-eater and the rain at Periyar and the extra time required to find Wynaard Laughing Thrush cost me the chance of Forest Wagtail (and Giant Hornbill) there. Chestnut winged Cuckoo is a possibility as is Blue eared Kingfisher; Malayan Night Heron is most unlikely. The time of the year was wrong for Broad tailed Grassbird but apart from these it was a pretty comprehensive clean-up.

Birds Seen in the Western Ghats (WGE: Western Ghats Endemic, PIE: Peninsula India Endemic, LWV: Localised Winter Visitor)

Ducks & Gamebirds

1 Lesser Whistling Duck Dendrocygna javanica Seen at Thattekkad

2 Northern Pintail Anas acuta 10 over the Periyar River, Thattekkad; apparently scarce here

3 Grey Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus Heard Munnar

4 Painted Bush Quail Perdicula erythrorhyncha PIE Coveys seen on two days, Munnar

5 Red Spurfowl Galloperdix spadicea PIE Seen at Thattekkad and Munnar

6 Grey Junglefowl Gallus sonneratii PIE Fairly common throughout

7 Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus Seen at Chinnar WS and Tamil Nadu lowlands

Grey Junglefowl Painted Bush Quail

Grebes, Storks, Ibis, Spoonbill & Herons

8 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis One on a pond near Thattekkad

9 Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala c. 20 on a pond in the Tamil Nadu lowlands

10 Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans Four birds seen on the Periyar River, Thattekkad

11 Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus One roadside bird, Thattekkad

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12 Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia 5 on a pond in the Tamil Nadu lowlands

13 Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus 1 at dusk on the Periyar River, Thattekkad

14 Black Bittern Dupetor flavicollis 1 at dusk on the Periyar River, Thattekkad

15 Striated Heron Butorides striata 3 sightings, Thattekkad

16 Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii Common everywhere

17 Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus Common everywhere

18 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 2 on a pond in the Tamil Nadu lowlands

19 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea 2 sightings, Thattekkad

20 Great Egret Ardea alba Seen around Thattekkad

21 Intermediate Egret Ardea intermedia Seen around Thattekkad

22 Little Egret Egretta garzetta Seen around Thattekkad

Cormorants & Darter

23 Little Cormorant Microcarbo niger Common on the Periyar River

24 Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster Fairly common on the Periyar River

Raptors

25 Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus 1 over grassland above Munnar

26 Crested Honey Buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus 5 widespread sightings

27 Black Baza Aviceda leuphotes 1 on the Periyar River from Hornbill Camp

28 Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela 3 sightings around Thattekkad, Periyar NP and Chinnar WS

29 Changeable Hawk-eagle Nisaetus cirrhatus 2 Thattekkad and 1 at Munnar

30 Legge's Hawk-eagle Nisaetus kelaarti A perched immature bird, Idamalayar valley, nr Thattekkad

31 Rufous-bellied Hawk-eagle Lophotriorchis kienerii 1 high bird over Chinnar WS

32 Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus 1 dark phase bird, Chinnar WS

33 Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus 1 Urulanthanni forest, Thattekkad

34 Shikra Accipiter badius 1 Chinnar WS

35 Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus 5 widespread sightings

Crakes, Rails, Buttonquails, Plovers, Jacanas & waders

36 White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus Fairly common and widespread

37 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus 1 on a pond nr Thattekkad

38 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus 5 on a roadside pond in the Tamil nadir lowlands

39 Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus A few around Thattekkad

40 Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus 2 sightings, Thattekkad

41 Pin-tailed Snipe Gallinago stenura c. 10 Thattekkad

42 Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola 3 Thattekkad

43 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 1 on the Periyar River, Thattekkad

Gulls & Terns

44 River Tern Sterna aurantia Up to 10 per day on the Periyar River from Hornbill Camp

45 Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida Common on the Periyar River, Thattekkad

Sandgrouse, Pigeons & Cuckoos

46 Rock Dove Columba livia Common in towns and villages

47 Nilgiri Wood Pigeon Columba elphinstonii WGE A few in forest above Olive Brook, Munnar and at the Doddabetta lookout, Ooty

48 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto 2 seen at Chinnar WS

49 Spotted Dove Spilopelia chinensis Seen in small numbers throughout

50 Common Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica 3 widespread sightings

51 Grey-fronted Green Pigeon Treron affinis WGE Quite common around Thattekkad and Periyar NP

52 Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea Fairly common on the Periyar River, Thattekkad

53 Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis Quite common around Thattekkad

54 Blue-faced Malkoha Phaenicophaeus viridirostris PIE 2 sightings around Thattekkad

55 Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopaceus Quite common around Thattekkad

56 Fork-tailed Drongo-cuckoo Surniculus dicruroides 3 sightings around Thattekkad

57 Common Hawk-cuckoo Hierococcyx varius 4 sightings around Thattekkad, 1 at Munnar and 1 at Chinnar WS

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Nilgiri Wood Pigeon Common Hawk Cuckoo

Owls, Frogmouth, Nightjars, Treeswifts & Swifts

58 Sri Lanka Bay Owl Phodilus assimilis PIE A wonderful roosting bird, Urulanthanni forest, Thattekkad

59 Indian Scops Owl Otus bakkamoena 1 called in at dusk Periyar River and calling at night in Hornbill Camp, Thattekkad

60 Spot-bellied Eagle-owl Bubo nipalensis A roosting bird at Chinnar WS

61 Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis A roosting pair on a small river bluff in the Tamil Nadu lowlands

62 Mottled Wood Owl Strix ocellata A roosting pair in a rubber tree plantation near Thattekkad

63 Brown Wood Owl Strix leptogrammica A well grown chick and roosting adult in secondary forest near Thattekkad

64 Jungle Owlet Glaucidium radiatum 1 in the Idamalayar valley nr Thattekkad

65 Sri Lanka Frogmouth Batrachostomus moniliger PIE A roosting pair, Urulanthanni forest nr Thattekkad

66 Great Eared Nightjar Lyncornis macrotis 3 seen in flight at dusk over two evenings on the Periyar River, Thattekkad; several additional birds were calling

67 Jerdon's Nightjar Caprimulgus atripennis PIE Cracking torchlight views of several birds nr Thattekkad

68 Indian Swiftlet Aerodramus unicolor PIE Fairly common and widespread. Birds were breeding in the small roadside cave on the Olive Brook access road, Munnar

69 White-rumped Spinetail Zoonavena sylvatica Up to 10 per day over forests at Thattekkad and Periyar NP

70 Brown-backed Needletail Hirundapus giganteus 100's forced down by torrential rain at Thattekkad and a few further sightings here

71 Little Swift Apus affinis Small numbers on the Periyar River, Thattekkad and other lower altitude locations

Brown Wood Owl Sri Lanka Bay Owl Brown Fish Owl

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Indian Scops Owl Jerdon’s Nightjar

Trogons, Rollers, Kingfishers, Bee-eaters & Hoopoe

72 Malabar Trogon Harpactes fasciatus PIE 2 sightings in the Thattekkad area

73 Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis A few seen on roadside wires in the Tamil Nadu lowlands

74 Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis A cracking bird at Chinnar WS

75 White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis A few widespread sightings

76 Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis 3 widespread sightings

77 Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis Small numbers seen at Thattekkad, Periyar NP and Chinnar WS

78 Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaulti 1 at Urulanthanni forest nr Thattekkad

79 Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops 1 Chinnar WS

Hornbills, Barbets & Woodpeckers

80 Malabar Grey Hornbill Ocyceros griseus WGE Quite common around Thattekkad also seen at Periyar NP

81 White-cheeked Barbet Psilopogon viridis PIE Common throughout except Ooty

82 Malabar Barbet Psilopogon malabaricus WGE Quite common throughout

83 Heart-spotted Woodpecker Hemicircus canente 1 seen at Urulanthanni forest and heard elsewhere around Thattekkad

84 Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker

Yungipicus nanus 3 together, Idamalayar valley nr Thattekkad

85 White-bellied Woodpecker Dryocopus javensis PIE Seen in flight once at Urulanthanni forest, Thattekkad

86 Common Flameback Dinopium javanense 2 seen in the Thattekkad area

87 Black-rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalense 2 seen in the Thattekkad area

88 Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes guttacristatus

5 sightings in the Thattekkad area and Periyar NP

Malabar Grey Hornbill Heart spotted Woodpecker Malabar Barbet

Falcons, Parrots, Pitta, Flycatcher Shrike & Woodshrikes

89 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus 1 Periyar NP and 1 Ooty

90 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus 1 carrying prey over Ooty

91 Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala Up to five sightings per day in the Thattekkad area and Periyar NP

92 Malabar Parakeet Psittacula columboides WGE Common around Thattekkad and Periyar NP; 1 seen at Ooty

93 Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri 1 Chinnar WS

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94 Vernal Hanging Parrot Loriculus vernalis Quite common around Thattekkad and Periyar NP

95 Indian Pitta Pitta brachyura 2 seen around Thattekkad, others heard and a brief view of one at Chinnar WS

96 Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus 1 Urulanthanni forest, Thattekkad

97 Malabar Woodshrike Tephrodornis sylvicola WGE 2 in the Idamalayar valley, Thattekkad; 1 Periyar NP

98 Common Woodshrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus 1 seen in Chinnar WS

Indian Pitta Plum headed Parakeet Long tailed Shrike

Woodswallow, Iora, Cuckooshrike, Minivets, Shrikes & Orioles

99 Ashy Woodswallow Artamus fuscus Common around Thattekkad

100 Common Iora Aegithina tiphia 2 birds on the dry east slope of the Ghats

101 Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus Quite common in the Urulanthanni forest, Thattekkad, also seen at Chinnar WS

102 Orange Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus PIE Small numbers seen at Periyar NP and Chinnar WS

103 Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus 5 sightings in Thattekkad and Periyar NP

104 Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach 3 in farmland near Ooty

105 Indian Golden Oriole Oriolus kundoo Quite common around Thattekkad

106 Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis LWV 2 Urulanthanni forest, Thattekkad

107 Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus Quite common around Thattekkad and Periyar NP

Drongos, Fantails, Monarchs, Treepies & Crows

108 Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus A few around Thattekkad

109 Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus Fairly common and widespread throughout

110 White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens 1 seen at Chinnar WS

111 Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus Up to five sightings per day in the Thattekkad area

112 Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus Common around Thattekkad and Periyar NP

113 White-spotted Fantail Rhipidura albogularis PIE 2 seen in farmland near Ooty

114 Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea Seen twice in the Thattekkad area

115 Indian Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi 4 widespread sightings

116 Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda Quite common around Thattekkad and Periyar NP

117 White-bellied Treepie Dendrocitta leucogastra WGE Up to five sightings per day in the Thattekkad area and Periyar NP

118 House Crow Corvus splendens Common

119 Indian Jungle Crow Corvus culminatus Common

Grey headed Canary Flycatcher Red whiskered Bulbul

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White browed Bulbul Yellow throated Bulbul

Canary Flycatcher, Tits, Larks & Bulbuls

120 Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis 3 sightings in the Munnar and Ooty areas

121 Cinereous Tit Parus cinereus 5 sightings in the Ooty area

122 Indian Black-lored (Yellow) Tit Machlolophus aplonotus 6 sightings in forest around Olive Brook, Munnar

123 Jerdon's Bush Lark Mirafra affinis PIE 1 on roadside wires, Tamil Nadu lowlands

124 Grey-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus priocephalus WGE 2 together in forest near Thattekkad

125 Flame-throated Bulbul Pycnonotus gularis WGE Quite common in the Urulanthanni forest and Idamalayar valley near Thattekkad; 1 Periyar NP

126 Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus Very common especially in the highlands

127 Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer Common

128 Yellow-throated Bulbul Pycnonotus xantholaemus WGE 5 on the dry east slope of the Ghats above Cumbum

129 White-browed Bulbul Pycnonotus luteolus PIE 1 on the dry east slope above Cumbum

130 Yellow-browed Bulbul Acritillas indica PIE Quite common throughout

131 Square-tailed Bulbul Hypsipetes ganeesa PIE 6 sightings around Munnar

Hirundines, Warblers, Prinias & Tailorbird

132 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica A few odd sightings

133 Hill Swallow Hirundo domicola Fairly common around Munnar

134 Dusky Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne concolor Fairly common around Munnar and Ooty

135 Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica Up to 10 per day around Thattekkad, other odd sightings around Munnar; common in farmland near Ooty

136 Green Warbler Phylloscopus nitidus 5 sightings around Thattekkad and one at Munnar

137 Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides 1 seen nr Munnar

138 Large-billed Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus magnirostris LWV 2 sightings Thattekkad, 1 at Munnar and 1 at Ooty

139 Western Crowned Warbler Phylloscopus occipitalis 1 Thattekkad and 1 Munnar

140 Paddyfield Warbler Acrocephalus agricola 1 was an unexpected find in the high altitude grassland above Munnar

141 Blyth's Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum Common everywhere

142 Thick-billed Warbler Iduna aedon LWV 8 sightings around Thattekkad and Periyar NP

143 Booted Warbler Iduna caligata Quite common in scrubby habitats around Thattekkad, Tamil Nadu lowlands and Munnar

144 Common Grasshopper Warbler Locustella naevia LWV A couple seen in grassland above Munnar

145 Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis Seen in grassland above Munnar

146 Plain Prinia Prinia inornata Seen in grassland above Munnar

147 Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius Seen in the garden of Olive Brook, Munnar

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Blyth’s Reed Warbler Paddyfield Warbler Booted Warbler

Thick billed Warbler Greenish Warbler Oriental White-eye

Babblers, Laughing Thrushes, Sylvia warblers & White-eyes

148 Indian Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus horsfieldii

PIE Heard quite widely around Periyar NP and Munnar but only seen in the forest above Olive Brook, Munnar

149 Tawny-bellied Babbler Dumetia hyperythra A nest building pair in grassland above Munnar

150 Dark-fronted Babbler Rhopocichla atriceps PIE 2 seen in the Idamalayar valley, Thattekkad and 2 at Periyar NP

151 Brown-cheeked Fulvetta Alcippe poioicephala A single bird in a feeding flock at Periyar NP was the only sighting. Usually this species in much more conspicuous in this area

152 Puff-throated Babbler Pellorneum ruficeps One at Periyar NP and one in the Olive Brook Garden

153 Rufous Babbler Turdoides subrufa WGE Fair views if a secretive bird (with others heard) in the Idamalayar valley, Thattekkad and a flock of about 5 sunning themselves and feeding in the open Periyar NP

154 Jungle Babbler Turdoides striata Common

155 Yellow-billed Babbler Turdoides affinis PIE Common in the Tamil Nadu lowlands and at Chinnar WS

156 Wynaad Laughing Thrush Garrulax delesserti WGE After several hours of searching we eventually found a group of c. 5 birds; they weren't particularly secretive but they were silent

157 Nilgri/ Black-chinned Laughing Thrush Trochalopteron cachinnans

WGE 2 in roadside bushes near Ooty and c. 10 at the Doddabetta Lookout, Ooty

158 Kerala Laughing Thrush Trochalopteron fairbanki

WGE c. 20 in the forest surrounding Olive Brook, Munnar

159 Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus Common around Munnar and Ooty

Three endemic Laughing Thrushes: Nilgiri, Wynaard and Kerala

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Fairy Bluebird, Nuthatches & Mynas

160 Asian Fairy-bluebird Irena puella Seen twice in the Thattekkad area but only flight views

161 Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis 1 at the Urulanthanni forest, Thattekkad

162 Southern Hill Myna Gracula indica PIE Common throughout

163 Jungle Myna Acridotheres fuscus Common at Periyar NP and Ooty

164 Common Myna Acridotheres tristis Common around Thattekkad and Chinnar

165 Malabar Starling Sturnia blythii WGE Up to 10 per day around Thattekkad and Periyar NP

166 Rosy Starling Pastor roseus A flock of c. 20 near Thattekkad

Indian Scimitar Babbler Malabar Starling

Thrushes, Robins, Flycatchers & Chats

167 Orange-headed Thrush Geokichla citrina Four sightings of this great bird around Thattekkad

168 Nilgiri Thrush Zoothera neilgherriensis WGE 1 in a rubbish strewn gully on the edge of Ooty

169 Indian Blackbird Turdus simillimus PIE c. 10 sightings around Ooty including in the Botanical Garden

170 Indian Robin Copsychus fulicatus 1 bird in Chinnar WS

171 Oriental Magpie-robin Copsychus saularis Common throughout. Nest building at Hornbill Camp, Thattekkad

172 White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus Hear in Chinnar WS

173 Asian Brown Flycatcher Muscicapa dauurica 2 birds in the Thattekkad area and one at Periyar NP

174 Brown-breasted Flycatcher Muscicapa muttui LWV 2 sightings around Thattekkad and 2 at Chinnar WS

175 Rusty-tailed Flycatcher Muscicapa ruficauda LWV 1 Idamalayar near Thattekkad

176 White-bellied Blue Flycatcher Cyornis pallipes WGE 2 nice males, Urulanthanni forest, Thattekkad

177 Tickell's Blue Flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae 1 Periyar NP and 2 at Chinnar WS

178 Blue-throated Blue Flycatcher Cyornis rubeculoides LWV 6 sightings around Thattekkad

179 Nilgiri Flycatcher Eumyias albicaudatus WGE Quite common in the forest around Olive Brook, Munnar and 1 seen at Ooty

180 Indian Blue Robin Larvivora brunnea LWV 6 sightings of this cracking bird around Munnar; all bar one were males

181 Nilgiri Blue Robin Myiomela major WGE 1 at a roadside gully, Ooty and one at the Doddabetta Lookout, Ooty

182 White-bellied Blue Robin Myiomela albiventris WGE 4 sightings around Munnar

183 Malabar Whistling Thrush Myophonus horsfieldii PIE 1 seen at Periyar NP; quite common around Munnar

184 Black-and-orange Flycatcher Ficedula nigrorufa WGE 3 birds including a nest building pair in a shola above Munnar and c. 5 around Ooty including the Botanical Garden

185 Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius 1 on the dry east slope of the Ghats at the Yellow throated Bulbul site

186 Blue-capped Rock Thrush Monticola cinclorhynchus LWV 4 sightings of this stunning bird, all males, in the forest above Olive Brook, Munnar including in the garden there

187 Pied Bush Chat Saxicola caprata Quite common in the high tea country around Munnar and Ooty

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Nilgiri blue Robin White bellied blue Robin Black and orange Flycatcher

Indian blue Robin male and and female Pied Bushchat

Leafbirds, Flowerpeckers, Sunbirds & Spiderhunters

188 Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons Quite common around Thattekkad especially Urulanthanni forest

189 Pale-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum erythrorhynchos 1 at Chinnar WS

190 Nilgiri Flowerpecker Dicaeum concolor WGE Seen twice around Thattekkad and 1 at Periyar NP

191 Purple-rumped Sunbird Leptocoma zeylonica Fairly common around Thattekkad and Periyar NP

192 Crimson-backed Sunbird Leptocoma minima WGE Common around Thattekkad

193 Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus 5 sightings around Thattekkad and Periyar NP

194 Loten's Sunbird Cinnyris lotenius 1 seen at Periyar NP

195 Little Spiderhunter Arachnothera longirostra 5 sightings around Thattekkad

Sparrows, Weavers & Munias

196 House Sparrow Passer domesticus Fairly common around habitation

197 Baya Weaver Ploceus philippinus A flock of c. 15 non-breeding birds in the Thattekkad area

198 White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata A flock of c. 6 birds in the Thattekkad area

199 Black-throated Munia Lonchura kelaarti PIE c. 10 in the Idamalayar valley, Thattekkad

Wagtails, Pipits, Finches & Buntings

200 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea Widespread; seen every day in small numbers; common around Ooty

201 White-browed Wagtail Motacilla maderaspatensis 2 on the Thattekkad village football pitch

202 Nilgiri Pipit Anthus nilghiriensis WGE 1 at the roadside mountain lookout near Munnar

203 Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus Quite common around Munnar and Ooty

Notes on some species not seen that occur in the Western Ghats

Malayan Night Heron Gorsachius melanolophus LWV Winters in tiny numbers; very secretive. The only chance of seeing this bird is if a local guide knows of a roost site

Jerdon's Baza Aviceda jerdoni This would appear to be a very scarce bird in the Western Ghats and you would be very lucky to bump into one

Chestnut-winged Cuckoo Clamator coromandus LWV Winters in small numbers. There is a chance of bumping into this species in Thattekkad or Periyar NP

Oriental Scops Owl Otus sunia There is usually a staked out roost at Thekkaddy, Periyar NP. It wasn't occupied when I visited

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Blue eared Kingfisher Alcedo meninting Occurs in low densities including on the stream at Urulanthanni, Thattekkad

Blue-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis athertoni Unlucky not to bump into this species at Thattekkad or Chinnar WS

Great Hornbill Buceros bicornis Occurs in Periyar NP; I didn't visit the right areas of the park

Tytler's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus tytleri Scarce in the Ooty area

Kashmir Flycatcher Ficedula subrubra LWV Winters in very small numbers around Ooty. We searched carefully for a male that had wintered in the Botanical Gardens without luck; it appeared to have left for the north

Broad-tailed Grassbird Schoenicola platyurus WGE Occurs in grassland above Munnar. Very difficult to see when not singing. Apparently not difficult to see during the Monsoon

Forest Wagtail Dendronanthus indicus Widespread winter visitor in small numbers. Best chances are at Thattekkad or Periyar

Blyth's Pipit Anthus godlewskii Several wintered in the Thattekkad area but had departed shortly before my visit

Jerdon’s Leafbird Nilgiri Pipit Grey Wagtail

Mammals Seen in the Western Ghats

1 Asian Elephant Elephas maximus Two adult females with calves several years old seen near Thattekkad

2 Bonnet Macaque Macaca radiata

Very common especially on the Eastern, Tamil Nadu slope. Young of about one week old seen at Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary

3 Tufted Grey Langur Semnopithecus priam Common at Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary, also seen nr Ooty 4 Nilgiri Langur Trachypithecus johnii A few seen at Periyar Tiger Reserve 5 Indian Giant Squirrel Ratufa indica The spectacular purple backed ssp seen around Thattekkad,

Periyar Tiger Reserve, Munnar and Ooty

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6 Sri Lankan Giant Squirrel Ratufa macroura One of the scarce ssp Dandolena seen at Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary. Handbook of Mammals of the World sates there could be as few as 500 of the Indian ssp

7 Indian Palm Squirrel Funambulus palmarum Also know as Three striped Palm Squirrel. Common 8 Dusky Palm Squirrel Funambulus sublineatus This tiny squirrel seen several times at Periyar Tiger Reserve and

Ooty 9 Jungle Palm Squirrel Funambulus tristriatus A 'striped' squirrel seen in Periyar Tiger Reserve was probably this

sp rather than Indian Palm Squirrel 10 Chital Axis axis

A few seen in a coffee plantation near Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary 11 Sambar Rusa unicolor One seen at Periyar Tiger Reserve

Bonnet Macaque

Taking a dip on a hot day At Chinnar WS many of the females had week old infants

Dusky Palm Squirrel, Munnar

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A Malabar Giant Squirrel feasts of fruit. A male Tufted grey Langur dozes whilst the mother cares for their youngster.

Indian Palm Squirrel, Thekkady Nilgiri Langur