a m d 528 design seminar topic: japanese · pdf filepage 1 of 14 u:\amd\amd 328x 528x\f14\a m...

$: A M D 528 Design Seminar Topic: Japanese · PDF filePage 1 of 14 U:\AMD\AMD 328X 528X\F14\A M D 528 Sec 3 and XB Design Seminar Fall 2014 Syllabus.docx A M D 528 Design Seminar Topic:$
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U:\AMD\AMD 328X 528X\F14\A M D 528 Sec 3 and XB Design Seminar Fall 2014 Syllabus.docx

A M D 528 Design Seminar Topic: Japanese Patternmaking Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Department

Apparel Merchandising and Design Program

Fall 2014

Syllabus

Instructor: Dr. Ellen McKinney, Ph.D. Office: 1071B LeBaron Phone: 515-294-7536 Email: [email protected]

http://www.pinterest.com/lnmckinney/awesome-pattern-work/ Twitter: @emfashionprof Skype: ellen.mckinney3

Sections: On campus: Section 3 meets M W 11:30am-2:30 pm Off Campus: Section XB

Course Description from Catalog: Focus on artisanal textile, apparel, or surface and structural design techniques. Design processes for

specialty fabrics and markets. Topics vary by term.

Prerequisites: AMD 221 Apparel Assembly Processes (or equivalent) AMD 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat Pattern (or equivalent) AMD 510 Foundation of Scholarship in Textiles and Clothing (or taking concurrently)

Instructional Methods The goal of this course is to provide background and structure for you to study the innovative

patternmaking techniques of Tomoko Nakamichi and apply these techniques in your own way. After

you explore, you will share what you have learned and created, allowing you to hone your teaching

abilities. Furthermore, as a group, we will analyze the body of patternmaking techniques, so as to give a

codified framework to our newly gained body of knowledge. You will also be provided a structure for

documenting your design process. The earnest participation of each student is essential to learning and

progress in this class. The entire learning process will be supported through both formal and informal

teaching, as well as, required and recommended resources (printed or otherwise).

Objectives / Outcomes: Learn innovative patternmaking techniques. Analyze the principles behind innovative patternmaking techniques. Compare, contrast, and organize a framework of Japanese patternmaking techniques. Apply learned techniques to original designs.

mailto:[email protected]

http://www.pinterest.com/lnmckinney/awesome-pattern-work/

http://www.pinterest.com/lnmckinney/awesome-pattern-work/

http://www.iastate.edu/

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Participate in the content analysis of the patternmaking techniques of Tomoko Nakamichi. Document your learning and personal design process. Create two original garments and complete paperwork for entry in a juried competition.

Required Reading: Pattern Magic Author: Nakamichi ISBN: 9781856697057

Pattern Magic 2 Author: Nakamichi ISBN: 9781856697064

Pattern Magic 3 (Knitwear) Author: Nakamichi ISBN: 9781856698276

Recommended Reading: Basic patternmaking textbook.

For example: Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Joseph-Armstrong

Hardcover w/DVD, 5th Ed. (ISBN 9780135018767) or

E-book (ISBN 9780137009374)

Draping textbook of your choice.

Sewing book of your choice.

For example:

New Complete Guide to Sewing by Readers Digest (ISBN 9780762104208),

Professional Sewing Tech.F/Designers by Cole (ISBN 9781563675164), or

Sewing for Apparel Industry by Shaeffer (ISBN 9780131884434)

FYI: Student Discounts Laurence King Publishing Ltd.: Students can register for 35% discount off everything on their website. The sign-up button is located under the 'LKP Student List' heading at the bottom of their homepage: http://www.laurenceking.com/us/

http://www.laurenceking.com/us/

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Suggested Supplies: You may modify as needed to suit your design projects or your personal supply preferences.

Included in Course Fee ($90): A general fee assessed to all students in section 3 that covers lab

equipment, maintenance and repairs, and selected supplies available in design studios or provided by

the instructor (for coursework only). Not charged to section XB students.

Specialty supplies carried by the University Bookstore

Patternmaking

Twill Tape (to mark HBL on form)

use of a ½ scale dress form

use of a variety of full scale dress and leg forms (need a minimum of 1)

Large Pattern Drafting / Cutting Tables

Pattern Paper

36” ruler “yard stick”

Pattern Hooks (8)

Tag Board

Tape Measure

Paper Scissors

Mechanical Pencils & Eraser

Colored Pencils or Pens (Red, Black, Green, and Purple) & White Out

½” X 12” metal ruler “flex general rule” (optional)

Triangle Ruler with measurements (optional)

Push Pins

Stapler, Staples, and Remover

“Magic” Transparent Tape & dispenser

Calculator

24” x 14” Tailor’s Square (a.k.a. “L-Square”)

18” X 2” Clear Plastic Grid Ruler

10” x 4 ¾”Plastic French Curve

24” Vary Form Hip Curve

Pattern Notcher

Pin-Head Tracing Wheel (a.k.a. “Needlepoint Tracer”)

Awl

Pattern Snips (for cutting tag board)

Cutting & Sewing

Striped woven fabric for ½ scale 1st samples

Assorted fashion fabrics (see instructor to view what we have available in lab cabinets)

Thread

Sewing Machines—suitable for stitching and finishing both wovens and knits

Assorted zippers (no guarantee as to color and length availability)

Metal weights

Pinking Shears

Iron, Ironing Board, & Pressing Equipment (Ham, Sleeve Board, etc.)

Muslin, fashion fabrics & notions, as needed for Original Design Garments

Fabric Shears

Satin Pins & Pin Cushion

Marking tools: Blunt tracing wheels with chalk paper in at least two colors; Tailors chalk; and Fine-point washable pen

a Juki bobbin case

Juki bobbins (min. 2 recommended)

Juki zipper foot

Other

9x12” hard-back, spiral bound, sketchbook to use as a Process Book

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Learning Assessment: Your total grade is based on the following:

Item (Items may be added or subtracted at the instructor’s discretion based on the needs and workflow of the class.)

% Points

½ Scale Sloper Set 5% 50 Full Scale Sloper Set 10% 100 Patternmaking Techniques Study and Application (5 at 70 points each) 35% 350 Original Garment Designs (2 at 250 points each) 50% 500 Total Possible: 100% 1000

Grade Scale Letter = % range A = 94 - 100 A - = 90 - 94

B+ = 88 - 89 B = 83 - 87 B - = 80 - 82

C+ = 78 - 79 C =73 - 77 C - = 70 - 72

D+ = 68 - 69 D = 63 - 67 D - = 60 - 62

F = 0 - 59

Work Standards: All work should adhere to the following standards:

Documents

Follow General APA Guidelines. Documents should be typed, double-spaced on standard-sized paper

(8.5" x 11") with 1" margins on all sides. You should use a clear font that is highly readable. APA

recommends using 12 pt. Times New Roman font. Include a page header (also known as the "running

head") at the top of every page. To create a page header/running head, insert page numbers flush right.

Then type "TITLE OF YOUR PAPER" in the header flush left using all capital letters. The running head is a

shortened version of your paper's title and cannot exceed 50 characters including spacing and

punctuation.

Patterns

Follow guidelines in the Error! Reference source not found..

Samples—1st & 2nd

Follow Error! Reference source not found..

The instructor encourages graduate student collaboration in the preparation of scholarly manuscripts.

Course Policies:

Attendance

Success in this course requires attendance. Formal attendance will not be taken; however, as an

emerging professional into the apparel industry it is expected you will attend class and fully participate

in each class meeting.

Assignments

Late assignments will not be accepted. If you encounter extenuating circumstances please contact me

within 6 hours of the projects due time.

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Electronic Devices

The instructor must approve all usage of laptops or other similar devices. All cell phones should be

turned off and put away, or the instructor can ask the student to leave the classroom for the rest of the

class period.

Classroom Courtesy

Respect and care for the classroom and studio spaces are expected of each student. You are to leave the

studio in better condition than you found it, so that all students have a positive experience using our

studio and classroom spaces. You are expected to have the necessary materials and supplies for each

meeting. Projects must be worked on in class, but some work will also need to be completed outside of

class. Projects not worked on in class will not be accepted. You are encouraged to watch progress on

projects of other class members and to share learning experience with others.

Research Sites

Students are encouraged to conduct research and keep up-to-date with fashion forecasts and trends

through fashion industry publications and on-line reporting services including WWD and websites such

as www.style.com, www.firstview.com, and www.stylesight.com/edu/. Note that consumer fashion

magazines (such as Vogue, Elle, etc.) are not appropriate fashion forecasting sources, as they present

garments that are already available on the market.

How to Access Stylesight.com. To create or reactivate your account, please first go to 108 or 307

MacKay computer lab and visit the following site: http://www.stylesight.com/edu/. Your username

would be your ISU email address and the system will generate a password (which you can change at any

time). Every three months (90 days) you will need to reactivate your account by visiting

http://www.stylesight.com/edu/ within (108 or 307 MacKay computer labs). You will receive

instructions and pop-up message when the time comes for that. Off-campus students, please contact

your instructor for assistance, if needed.

Historical fashion inspiration may be researched on the Vogue Archive.

How to Access the Vogue Archive. This database is available through the library webpage.

http://search.proquest.com.proxy.lib.iastate.edu/vogue/arts/fromDatabasesLayer?accountid=10906

Grading

Grades and grading rubrics will be posted on Blackboard. Log-in id: your isu e-mail without

“@iastate.edu”; password: same as your ISU e-mail password. Instructors will make every effort to keep

accurate records. However, it is your responsibility to monitor grade reports and keep all materials

related to the course. Grade related claims should be in writing (e-mail acceptable) and must be done

within one week after a project is returned.

Iowa State University Policies:

Harassment and Discrimination

Iowa State University strives to maintain our campus as a place of work and study for faculty, staff, and

students that is free of all forms of prohibited discrimination and harassment based upon race, ethnicity,

sex (including sexual assault), pregnancy, color, religion, national origin, physical or mental disability,

age, marital status, sexual orientation, gender identity, genetic information, or status as a U.S. veteran.

https://exchange.iastate.edu/owa/redir.aspx?C=EMayMWBn4UWguVkRn90Z4afM_cwLdNAIBPBVEAMXOLKTXTQ6nLtoAZ3DqeC-buW8GcqGeFwkT6U.&URL=http%3a%2f%2fwww.stylesight.com%2fedu%2f

https://exchange.iastate.edu/owa/redir.aspx?C=EMayMWBn4UWguVkRn90Z4afM_cwLdNAIBPBVEAMXOLKTXTQ6nLtoAZ3DqeC-buW8GcqGeFwkT6U.&URL=http%3a%2f%2fwww.stylesight.com%2fedu%2f

http://search.proquest.com.proxy.lib.iastate.edu/vogue/arts/fromDatabasesLayer?accountid=10906

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Any student who has concerns about such behavior should contact his/her instructor, Student

Assistance at 515-294-1020 or email [email protected], or the Office of Equal Opportunity and

Compliance at 515-294-7612.

Disability Accommodation

Iowa State University complies with the Americans with Disabilities Act and Sect 504 of the

Rehabilitation Act. If you have a disability and anticipate needing accommodations in this course, please

contact the course instructor to set up a meeting within the first two weeks of the semester or as soon

as you become aware of your need. Before meeting with the course instructor, you will need to obtain a

SAAR form with recommendations for accommodations from the Disability Resource Office, located in

room 1076 on the main floor of the Student Services Building. Their telephone number is 515-294-7220

or email [email protected]. Retroactive requests for accommodations will not be honored.

Religious Accommodation

If an academic or work requirement conflicts with your religious practices and/or observances, you may

request reasonable accommodations. Your request must be in writing, and your instructor or supervisor

will review the request. You or your instructor may also seek assistance from the Dean of Students

Office or the Office of Equal Opportunity and Compliance.

Dead Week

This class follows the Iowa State University Dead Week policy as noted in section 10.6.4 of the Faculty

Handbook http://www.provost.iastate.edu/resources/faculty-handbook.

Academic Dishonesty

This class will follow Iowa State University’s policy on academic dishonesty. Anyone suspected of

academic dishonesty will be reported to the Dean of Students Office.

http://www.dso.iastate.edu/ja/academic/misconduct.html

Academic dishonesty occurs when a student uses or attempts to use unauthorized information in the

taking of an exam; or submits as his or her own work themes, reports, drawings, laboratory notes, or

other products prepared by another person; or knowingly assists another student in such acts or

plagiarism. Such behavior is abhorrent to the university, and students found responsible for academic

dishonesty face expulsion, suspension, conduct probation, or reprimand. Instances of academic

dishonesty ultimately affect all students and the entire university community by degrading the value of

diplomas when some are obtained dishonestly, and by lowering the grades of students working

honestly.

Examples of specific acts of academic dishonesty include but are not limited to:

Obtaining unauthorized information. Information is obtained dishonestly, for example, by copying

graded homework assignments from another student, by working with another student on a take-home

test or homework when not specifically permitted to do so by the instructor, or by looking at your notes

or other written work during an examination when not specifically permitted to do so.

Tendering of information. Students may not give or sell their work to another person who plans to

submit it as his or her own. This includes giving their work to another student to be copied, giving



http://www.provost.iastate.edu/resources/faculty-handbook

http://www.dso.iastate.edu/ja/academic/misconduct.html

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someone answers to exam questions during the exam, taking an exam and discussing its contents with

students who will be taking the same exam, or giving or selling a term paper to another student.

Misrepresentation. Students misrepresent their work by handing in the work of someone else. The

following are examples: purchasing a paper from a term paper service; reproducing another person's

paper (even with modifications) and submitting it as their own; having another student do their

computer program or having someone else take their exam.

Bribery. Offering money or any item or service to a faculty member or any other person to gain

academic advantage for yourself or another is dishonest.

Plagiarism. Unacknowledged use of the information, ideas, or phrasing of other writers is an offense

comparable with theft and fraud, and it is so recognized by the copyright and patent laws. Literary

offenses of this kind are known as plagiarism.

Plagiarism occurs when a person does not credit the sources from which they borrow ideas, whether

these ideas are reproduced exactly or summarized. The method of documentation will differ depending

on whether the sources are written, oral, or visual. Ethically, communicators are responsible for

providing accurate, detailed information about their sources. Practically, audiences need this

information to comprehend and evaluate a message's content. The Student Guide: English 150 and 250,

available for purchase at the University Book Store, describes the process of documenting source

materials, as do many other reference guides.

Academic dishonesty is considered to be a violation of the behavior expected of a student in an

academic setting as well as a student conduct violation. A student found responsible for academic

dishonesty or academic misconduct is therefore subject to appropriate academic penalty; to be

determined by the instructor of the course, as well as sanctions under the university Student Disciplinary

Regulations.

Classroom or Grade Problems

If a student has a course related problem, she or he should discuss it with the course instructor first. If

the student is not satisfied, she or he should contact his/her advisor to address the situation. The

advisor will suggest possible course of actions. For more information refer to

http://catalog.iastate.edu/academiclife/#appealofacademicgrievances. If you are experiencing, or have

experienced, a problem with any of the above issues, email [email protected].

Violence Free University

At ISU, violence, threats or implied threats of violence, and intimidation (verbal or physical acts intended

to frighten or coerce) impede the goal of providing a safe environment and will not be tolerated. For

more information, refer to http://www.policy.iastate.edu/policy/violence .

Emergency Response

In an emergency situation, follow emergency response guide at

http://www.ehs.iastate.edu/sites/default/files/uploads/publications/posters/EmergencyP

oster.pdf . For more information, refer to

http://www.policy.iastate.edu/policy/emergencynotification .

https://exchange.iastate.edu/owa/redir.aspx?C=J0Z-fcofPk-4Vy3OpuFeeZy70XJJhM8IH5QzQKLOXF20VkJqvCv_0-1CZa7DLUTW_fFmMth3DDw.&URL=http%3a%2f%2fcatalog.iastate.edu%2facademiclife%2f%23appealofacademicgrievances


http://www.policy.iastate.edu/policy/violence

http://www.ehs.iastate.edu/sites/default/files/uploads/publications/posters/EmergencyPoster.pdf

http://www.ehs.iastate.edu/sites/default/files/uploads/publications/posters/EmergencyPoster.pdf

http://www.policy.iastate.edu/policy/emergencynotification

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Course Schedule: Subject to change based on instructor discretion. Changes will be announced in class. The due dates for all assignments are included in the syllabus, but may be subject to change. Students will be informed of any changes in class or via e-mail.

Week Activities / Topics / Reading (complete BEFORE class) /Assignments & due

dates

1 August 25th Introduction to Course

Reading: 1. Pedersen, E. L. (2007). Theory Is Everywhere A Discourse on Theory.

Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 25(1), 106-128. 2. Bye, E. (2010). A direction for clothing and textile design research.

Clothing and Textiles Research Journal.

Topics: Design Research

Why is design research important?

What can we research?

What methods can we use?

How will we use design research in this course?

Discussion of two optional research / writing for publication

opportunities.

Explanation of Error! Reference source not found.

Begin Error! Reference source not found.—fit muslin due start-of-class, Aug.

27th

27th Review of Pattern Marking and Labeling Read: 1. Error! Reference source not found.

2. Joseph-Armstrong Ch. 1

Review of Flat Pattern Design—Major Principles

Read: (Joseph-Armstrong)

Principle #1 Dart Manipulation: Bodices (Ch. 4), Skirts (pgs. 233, 239 –

244), Style Lines(Ch. 6), Gores, Yokes—Bodices and Skirts (pgs. 249 –

261, pgs. 267 – 270)

Principle #2 Added Fullness: Bodices, Skirts & Sleeves (Ch. 7, pgs. 245-

248, 258-285, 288-299, & 310-331)

Principle #3 Contouring: (Ch. 9)

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Fit half scale slopers to half scale dress forms. Final on tag board due start-of-

class, Sept. 3rd.

2 September

1st

University Holiday

3rd Start Error! Reference source not found.—final on tag board due start-of-

class, Oct. 1st.

3 8th Begin Error! Reference source not found. 1—due start-of-class, Sept. 15th

Read: Pattern Magic

Gathered hole

Crater

The drop hole (otoshiana)

Lumps and bumps (dekoboko)

Draped design

The twist (nejiri)

Hide and seek (kakurenbo)

Interwoven design

Bamboo shoot (takenoko)

The knot (musubu)

Two distinct expressions

An intriguing curve

10th Continue work on Patternmaking Study and Application 1

4 15th Begin Patternmaking Study and Application 2—due start-of-class, Sept. 22nd

Read: Pattern Magic 2 pt. 1. Playing with geometrics.

Wearing a balloon

Wearing a circle

Wearing a triangle

Wearing a square

Sprouting at the back (nyokitto)

Sprouting at the front (nyokitto)

Just like a stole

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A ball-shaped accordion (jabara)

Circular accordion (jabara)

Circular sleeve

Square accordion (jabara)

17th Continue work on Error! Reference source not found. 2

5 22nd Begin Error! Reference source not found. 3—due start-of-class, Sept. 29th

Read: pt. 2. Decorative structures.

Knots

Like a jungle

Stars

Flip turn

Different facings, different looks

Cowl neck

Application of the cowl-neck design

pt. 3. It vanished.

A vanishing scarf

A vanishing tie

A vanishing lapel

A vanishing pocket


6 29th Begin Error! Reference source not found. 4—due start-of-class, Oct. 6th

Read: Pattern Magic: Stretch Fabrics Part 1. Fun with stretch fabrics :

Wear it wrong

Two peas in a pod: A, B

Full moon

Crescent moon

The magic is in the wearing

Whac-a-mole

Hooded shirt

Pattern mystery

Crushed can

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October 1st Continue work on Error! Reference source not found. 4

7 6th Begin Error! Reference source not found. 5—due start-of-class, Oct. 13th

Read: Part 2. The expressive power of stretch fabrics :

Roots: A, B

Sharp and snappy: A, B, C, D

Apple peel: A, B

Jutting edge

Circular drape

Stopper

Loophole: A, B

Straight lines and curves: A, B

Kangaroo

Stingray


8 13th Discussion of Framework of Nakamichi patternmaking techniques

Explanation of Error! Reference source not found.

Error! Reference source not found.—due start-of-class, Oct. 15th

15th Error! Reference source not found.—due start-of-class, Oct. 20th

Begin work on Design 1

Error! Reference source not found.—due end-of-class, Oct. 15th

(today!)




9 20th Continue work on Design 1

Error! Reference source not found.—due start-of-class, Oct. 22nd

22nd Continue work on Design 1

Error! Reference source not found.—due by noon, Oct. 24th (Friday)


Page 13 of 14



10 27th Continue work on Design 1 (sewing)


29th Continue work on Design 1 (fitting & pattern corrections)

Error! Reference source not found.—due by noon, Oct. 31st (Friday)

Error! Reference source not found.—due start-of-class, Nov. 3rd

Error! Reference source not found.—due start-of-class, Nov. 3

11 November

3rd

Continue work on Design 1 (sewing)

Error! Reference source not found.—due start-of-class, Nov. 10th

5th Continue work on Design 1 (sewing and paperwork)





12 10th Begin Design 2 (patternmaking)

Error! Reference source not found.—due prior to beginning work on

your second sample

Error! Reference source not found.—due end-of-class, Nov. 10th

(today!)



12th Continue work on Design 2 (sewing)

Error! Reference source not found.—due end-of-class, Nov. 17th

ITAA Conference Nov. 13th – 16th

13 17th Continue work on Design 2

Complete 1st Sample (sewing)

Error! Reference source not found.—due Oct. 19th.



19th Continue work on Design 2

Complete 1st Sample Fitting & Pattern Corrections

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2nd Sample-making (sewing)

Error! Reference source not found.—due start-of-class, Dec. 1st

14 Thanksgiving Break—No Classes

15 December

1st

Continue work on Design 2 (fitting & pattern corrections)

Error! Reference source not found.—due start-of-class, Dec. 3rd



3rd Continue work on Design 2 (sewing)

Error! Reference source not found.—due start-of-class, Dec. 10th

16 8th Continue work on Design 2 (sewing and paperwork)




10th Error! Reference source not found.

17 15th Monday 9:45-11:45 a.m. (Official Final Exam Time)—Error! Reference source

not found.