L I V I N G W I T H F I R EA GUIDE FOR THE HOMEOWNER

Much of Colorado is consid-ered a high hazard fireenvironment. Based on past

experience, this area possesses all theingredients necessary to support large,intense, and uncontrollable wildfires,especially due to the density of ourforests, and the buildup of dead trees,brush, and other material.

Within this hazardous environmentare individual houses, subdivisions,and communities. Many of thesestructures would be unable to surviveintense wildfire. Since it is not aquestion of “if” wildfires will occur but“when,” they will occur, the likelihoodof human life and property loss is greatand increases daily.

Our ability to live more safely inthis fire environment greatly dependsupon our use of “pre-fire activities.”These are steps taken before a wildfireoccurs which improve the survivabilityof people and homes. They includeproper vegetation management aroundthe home (known as defensible space),use of fire resistant building materials,appropriate subdivision design, andmanagement actions such as mechani-

cal treatment and prescribed fire.Research clearly demonstrates that pre-fire activities save lives and property.

The Colorado State Forest Service(CSFS) participates with other fireprevention cooperators in a programcalled FireWise which will facilitatewidespread implementation of pre-fireactivities throughout Colorado. For moreinformation concerning this program orfor other wildfire concerns, pleasecontact your local CSFS district office:

Alamosa 719.589.2271Boulder 303.442.0428Canon City 719.275.6865Durango 970.247.5250Fort Collins 970.491.8660Fort Morgan 970.867.5610Franktown 303.442.0428Golden 303.279.9757Granby 970.887.3121Grand Junction 970.248.7325Gunnison 970.641.6852La Junta 719.384.9087La Veta 719.742.3588Montrose 970.249.9051Salida 719.539.2579Steamboat Springs 970.879.0475Woodland Park 719.687.2951

LIVING IN A HIGH HAZARDFIRE ENVIRONMENT

L I V I N G W I T H

Colorado State Forest Service • USDA - Forest Service • Bureau of Land Management • National Park Service • Bureau of Indian Affairs • US Fish and Wildlife Service

The pre-fire activities implemented by this homewowner included a greenand well maintained landscape, reduction of wildland vegetation aroundthe perimeter of the property, a fire resistant roof, and a good access roadwith a turnaround area. The charred surroundings of the home show thatthese pre-fire activities effectively protected it when wildfire hit.

THE “WHY WE’RE WORRIED ABOUT WILDFIRE” EQUATION

“LIVING WITH FIRE” -PRE-FIRE ACTIVITIES

Fire is anatural part

of our environ-ment. Ourforests andrangelands

were burninglong beforethere was a

Denver, GrandJunction orDurango.

+ +With more

people usingour wildlands,

there is agreaterchance

of fire starts.

+Today’s

wildfires canburn

intensely andbe difficult to

control.

Many homesare built andmaintained in

this fireenvironment

withoutregard towildfire.

Potential for:• Greater loss

of life• Increased

propertylosses

• Moredamage tonaturalresources

• Moremoneyneeded forfirefighting.

=

THE FIRE ENVIRONMENTThe fire environment is defined as the “surroundingconditions, influences, and modifying forces that deter-mine wildfire behavior.” Firefighters recognize threecomponents of the fire environment: weather, topogra-phy, and fuel. These components affect the likelihood ofa wildfire starting, the speed and direction of its spread,the intensity at which it burns, and the ability to controland extinguish it. Although weather and topographycannot be changed, the fuels (or vegetation) can bemodified. Consequently, many of our opportunities toreduce the wildfire threat lie in proper management andmanipulation of wildland vegetation.

WEATHER: Dry, hot, and windyweather increases the likelihood ofa major wildfire. These conditionsmake ignition easier, allow fuels toburn more rapidly and increase fireintensity. High wind speeds, inparticular, can transform a small,easily controllable fire into acatastrophic event in a matter ofminutes.

TOPOGRAPHY: Of topographicfeatures, steepness of slope mostinfluences fire behavior. As thesteepness of slope increases, firespreads more quickly. Otherimportant topographic featuresinclude aspect (south and south-west slopes usually have morefires), and steep narrow drainages(chimneys), which can significantlyincrease the rate of fire spread.

FUEL: Fuel is required for any fire toburn. In regard to wildfire, fuelsalmost always consist of livingvegetation (trees, shrubs, grasses,and wildflowers) and dead plantmaterial (dead trees, dried grasses,fallen branches, pine needles, etc.).Houses, when involved in a wildfire,become a source of fuel. Theamount, size, moisture content,arrangement, and other fuelscharacteristics influence ease ofignition, rate of fire spread, length offlames, and other fire behaviors.

THE HUMAN ENVIRONMENT: Whenpeople are living in high-hazard environ-ments, the human-built environmentbecomes an important factor in predictingthe loss of life and property. Untreatedwood shake and shingle roofs, narrowroads, limited access, lack of FireWiselandscaping, inadequate water supplies,and poorly planned subdivisions areexamples of increased risk to people livingwith threat of wildfire.

WIND

DEAD END

EXAMPLES OF LOCAL FIRE BEHAVIOR*Presented below are five types of vegetation common to Colorado with computer generated estimates of how theywould burn under certain conditions. These predictions assume a wind speed of 20 mph, flat terrain, typical moisturecontents of living and dead vegetation for summertime, and normal August weather for our area.

3,000 acres can burnafter one hour.

4,135 acrescan burnafter one hour.

Cheatgrass: Cheatgrass is an invasive annualgrass that usually occupies areas formerly veg-etated with big sagebrush. It can dominate oldburned areas, abandoned pastures, and otherdisturbed areas.

Gamble Oak/Scrub Oak: This is a heavy brushtype consisting of large gamble oak and mountainshrubs. Unusual late frosts can create large amountsof dead woody material. It is common in westernColorado, Colorado Springs and at lower to mid-elevations of the Rocky Mountains.

150acrescan burnafterone hour.

Pine forest: This type consists of ponderosa pine,often interspersed with some Douglas-fir, lodge-pole pine, and other coniferous trees. Pine needlesand some young Douglas-fir trees occupy theunderstory.

* Fire behavior estimates were prepared by JohnSwanson, and Marcus Schmidt, USDA Forest Service.

FLAMELENGTH

Less than 4 feet

4 to 8 feet

8 to 11 feet

More than11 feet

EFFECTIVE FIRE SUPPRESSION TACTICS*

Fireline constructed with hand tools, such as shovelsand axes, can be effective at the front of the fire.

Bulldozers and other heavy equipment will beneeded to construct an effective fireline. Wherebulldozers are not available, fire engines with hosesand water will be required to “knock down” theflames before the fire crews with hand tools can beeffective, or fire crews must construct a fireline at aconsiderable distance from the fire.

Airtankers with fire suppressing retardant or helicop-ters with water are required to reduce the fire’s rateof spread before fireline construction by crews orbulldozers can be effective.

Direct fire suppression efforts will be ineffective.Retreat to existing roads, streams and other barriers.Burn out vegetation between the fireline and theadvancing fire front to eliminate wildfire fuels.

*Adapted from information provided by John Swanson, USDA Forest Service.

Sagebrush: Sagebrush is the dominant shrub in thistype and there is an understory of cheatgrass, bunchgrass, and wildflowers. This type is very common onColorado’s western slop and in lower valley areas.

Piñon-juniper woodlands: Piñon pine and junipermixed with shrubs characterize this vegetation type.It is most commnly found in the south and westparts of Colorado.

830 acres can burnafter one hour.

THE LIMITATIONS OF WILDLANDFIREFIGHTINGA lot of people assume that when a wildfire starts, it will be quickly controlledand extinguished. This is an accurate assumption 97% of the time. Firefightershave the ability, equipment, and technology to effectively suppress most wildfires.But 3% of the time wildfires burn so intensely that there is little firefighters can do.In the table to the right are firefighter tactics as they relate to wildfire flamelength. Compare this to the flame lengths shown in “Examples of Local FireBehavior.”

3,400acres canburn afterone hour.

When wildfire flame lengths exceed 11 feet, direct firefighting efforts are ineffective.Under these conditions firefighters use roads, streams, and other barriers to control thewildfire.

THE THREE R’s OF DEFENSIBLE SPACEThis technique involves the elimination of entire plants,particularly trees and shrubs, from the site. Examplesof removal are cutting down a dead tree or cutting outa flammable shrub.

The removal of plant parts, such as branches or leaves,constitutes reduction. Examples of reduction are pruningdead wood from a shrub, removing low tree branches,and mowing dried grass.

Replacement is substituting less flammable plants formore hazardous vegetation. Removal of a dense standof flammable shrubs and planting an irrigated, wellmaintained flower bed is an example of replacement.

Removal

Reduction

Replacement

HOW DO I CHANGE THE VEGETATION ONMY PROPERTY TO REDUCE THE WILDFIRETHREAT?The objective of defensible space is to reduce thewildfire threat to a home by changing thecharacteristics of the adjacent vegetation. Defen-sible space practices include:• increasing the moisture content of

vegetation• decreasing the amount of flammable

vegetation• shortening plant height• altering the arrangement of plantsThis is accomplished through the “Three R’s ofDefensible Space.” The article “Creating AnEffective Defensible Space” provides detailedinformation about changing vegetation character-istics for defensible space.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT DEFENSIBLE SPACE

More and more homes are being built in high firehazard environments.

In the 1980’s, the term “defensible space” wascoined to describe vegetation managementpractices aimed at reducing wildfire threats tohomes. This article responds to some of thecommonly asked questions about defensiblespace.

WHAT IS DEFENSIBLE SPACE?Defensible space is the area between a house andan oncoming wildfire where the vegetation hasbeen modified to reduce the wildfire threat and toprovide an opportunity for firefighters to effectivelydefend the house. Sometimes, a defensible spaceis simply a homeowner’s properly maintainedbackyard.

WHAT IS THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN VEGETA-TION AND WILDFIRE THREAT?Many people do not view the plants growing ontheir property as a threat. But in terms of wildfire,the vegetation adjacent to their homes can haveconsiderable influence upon the survivability oftheir houses. All vegetation, including plants nativeto the area as well as ornamental plants, ispotential wildfire fuel. f vegetation is properlymodified and maintained, a wildfire can beslowed, the length of flames shortened, and the

amount of heat reduced, all of which assistfirefighters to defend the home against an oncom-ing wildfire.

THE FIRE DEPARTMENT IS SUPPOSED TO PRO-TECT MY HOUSE, SO WHY BOTHER WITHDEFENSIBLE SPACE?Some individuals incorrectly assume that a fireengine will be parked in their driveway andfirefighters will be actively defending their homes ifa wildfire approaches. During a major wildfire, it isunlikely there will be enough firefighting resourcesavailable to defend every home. In these instances,firefighters will likely select homes they can mostsafely and effectively protect. Even with adequateresources, some wildfires may be so intense thatthere may be little firefighters can do to prevent ahouse from burning. The key is to reduce fireintensity as wildfire nears the house. This can beaccomplished by reducing the amount of flam-mable vegetation surrounding a home. Conse-quently, the most important person in protecting ahouse from wildfire is not a firefighter, but theproperty owner. The action taken by the ownerbefore the wildfire occurs (such as proper land-scaping) is the most critical.

DOES DEFENSIBLE SPACE REQUIRE A LOT OFBARE GROUND IN MY LANDSCAPE?No. Unfortunately, many people have this miscon-ception. While bare ground is certainly effective inreducing the wildfire threat, it is unnecessary andunacceptable due to appearance, soil erosion, andother reasons. Many homes have attractive, well-vegetated landscapes that also serve as effectivedefensible space.

DOES CREATING A DEFENSIBLE SPACE REQUIREANY SPECIAL SKILLS OR EQUIPMENT?No. For the most part, creating a defensible spaceemploys routine gardening and landscape mainte-nance practices such as pruning, mowing, weed-ing, plant removal, appropriate plant selection,and irrigation. Equipment needed includes com-mon tools like a chain saw, pruning saw, pruningshears, loppers, weed-eater, shovel, and a rake. Achipper, compost bin, or a large rented trashdumpster may be useful in disposing of unwantedplant material.

HOW BIG IS AN EFFECTIVE DEFENSIBLE SPACE?Defensible space size is not the same for everyone,but varies by slope and type of wildland vegetationgrowing near the house. See the article entitled“Creating An Effective Defensible Space” forspecific information.

DOES DEFENSIBLE SPACE MAKE A DIFFERENCE?Yes. Investigations of homes threatened by wildfireindicate that houses with an effective defensible spaceare much more likely to survive a wildfire. Furthermore,homes with both an effective defensible space and anonflammable roof (composition shingles, tile, metal,etc.) are many times more likely to survive a wildfire thanthose without defensible space and flammable roofs(wood shakes or shingles). These conditions givefirefighters the opportunity to effectively and safely defendthe home.

DOES HAVING A DEFENSIBLE SPACE GUARANTEEMY HOUSE WILL SURVIVE A WILDFIRE? No.Under extreme conditions, almost any house canburn. But having a defensible space will signifi-cantly improve the odds of your home surviving awildfire.

WHY DOESN’T EVERYONE LIVING IN A HIGHWILDFIRE HAZARD AREA CREATE A DEFENSIBLESPACE?The specific reasons for not creating a defensiblespace are varied. Some individuals believe “itwon’t happen to me.” Others think the costs (time,money, effort, loss of privacy, etc.) outweigh thebenefits. Some fail to implement defensible spacepractices simply because of lack of knowledge ormisconceptions.

DEFENSIBLE SPACEMINIMUM DISTANCES—STEEPNESS OF SLOPE

30feet 100feet 100feet

100feet 200feet 200feet

70feet 105feet 200feet

1) Find the percent slope which best describes your property.2) Find the type of vegetation which best describes the wildland plants growing on or near your property.3) Locate the number in feet corresponding to your slope and vegetation. This is your recommended defensible space distance.*Please note the recommendations presented in this article are suggestions made by local firefighters experienced in protecting homes from wildfire. They are not requirements nor do they takeprecedence over local ordinances.

Wildland grasses (such as cheatgrass),weeds, and widely scattered shrubswith grass understory.

Includes shrub dominant areas such assagebrush, gamble oak, and pinyon-juniper.

Includes forested areas. If substantialgrass or shrub understory is present,use those values shown above.

VEG

ETA

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YPE

STEP ONE: HOW BIG IS ANEFFECTIVE DEFENSIBLE SPACE?

The size of the defensible space area is usuallyexpressed as a distance extending outward from thesides of the house. This distance varies by the type ofwildland vegetation growing near the house and thesteepness of the terrain.

On the “Recommended Defensible SpaceDistance” chart presented below, find the vegetationtype and percent slope (see “Homeowners Guide toCalculating Percent Slope”) which best describes thearea where your house is located. Then find therecommended defensible space distance for yoursituation.

For example, if your property is surrounded bywildland grasses such as cheatgrass, and is located onflat land, your recommended defensible space distance

STEP TWO: IS THERE ANY DEADVEGETATION WITHIN THE RECOMMENDEDDEFENSIBLE SPACE AREA?

Dead vegetation includes dead trees andshrubs, dead branches lying on the ground or stillattached to living plants, dried grass, flowers andweeds, dropped leaves and needles, and firewoodstacks. In most instances, dead vegetation should beremoved from the recommended defensible space area.A description of the types of dead vegetation you’relikely to encounter and the recommended actions arepresented below on the next page.

CREATING AN EFFECTIVE DEFENSIBLE SPACE*...A Step-by-Step Guide

Are you worried about the wildfire threat to your home, but aren’t sure how to get started in makingyour home defensible? Follow these six steps to an effective defensible space...

would extend 30 feet from the sides of the house. Ifyour house is on a 25% slope and the adjacent wild-land vegetation is dense tall brush, your recommendeddefensible space distance would be 200 feet.

If the recommended distance goes beyond yourproperty boundaries, contact the adjacent propertyowner and work cooperatively on creating a defensiblespace. The effectiveness of defensible space increaseswhen multiple property owners work together. Thelocal assessor’s office can provide assistance if theowners of adjacent properties are unknown. Do notwork on someone else’s property without theirpermission.

Temporarily mark the recommended distancewith flagging or strips of cloth tied to shrubs, trees, orstakes around your home. This will be your defensiblespace area.

Remove all standing dead trees from within the defensiblespace area.

Remove all down dead trees within the defensible spacearea if they have recently fallen and are not yet embeddedinto the ground. Downed trees that are embedded intosoil and which cannot be removed without soil disturbanceshould be left in place. Remove all exposed branches froman embedded downed dead tree.

Remove all dead shrubs from within the defensible spacearea.

Once grasses and wildflowers have dried out or “cured,”cut down and remove from the defensible space area.

Reduce thick layers of pine needles to a depth of twoinches. Do not remove all needles. Take care not todisturb the “duff” layer (dark area at the ground surfacewhere needles are decomposing) if present. Remove deadleaves, twigs, cones, and branches.

Remove all dead leaves, branches, twigs, and needles stillattached to living trees and shrubs to height of 15 feetabove ground. Remove all debris that accumulates on theroof and in rain gutters on a routine basis (at least onceannually).

Locate firewood and other combustible debris (woodscraps, grass clippings, leaf piles, etc.) at least 30 feetuphill from the house.

RECOMMENDED PRACTICE

TYPES OF DEAD VEGETATION AND RECOMMENDED PRACTICE

DEAD FUEL TYPE

STANDING DEAD TREE

DOWN DEAD TREE

DEAD SHRUBS

DRIED GRASSES ANDWILDFLOWERS

DEAD NEEDLES, LEAVES,BRANCHES, CONES(ON THE GROUND)

DEAD NEEDLES, LEAVES,BRANCHES, AND TWIGS(OTHER THAN ON THEGROUND)

FIREWOOD AND OTHERCOMBUSTIBLE DEBRIS

STEP THREE: IS THERE A CONTINU-OUS DENSE COVER OF SHRUBS OR TREESPRESENT WITHIN THE RECOMMENDED DEFEN-SIBLE SPACE AREA?

Sometimes wildland plants can occur as anuninterrupted layer of vegetation as opposed to being

Continuous, denseuninterruptedvegetation

Patchy vegetation orwidely spacedindividual plants.

patchy or widely spaced individual plants. The morecontinuous and dense the vegetation, the greater thewildfire threat. If this situation is present within yourdefensible space area, you should “break-it-up” byproviding a separation between plants or small groupsof plants.

Not only are steep slopes often considered highwildfire areas, they are also highly erodible. When

removing shrubs and trees from steep slopes, keep soildisturbance to a minimum. Also, it may be necessaryto replace flammable vegetation with other plantmaterials to prevent excessive soil erosion.

Note: Separation distances are measured betweencanopies (outermost branches) and not betweentrunks.

For example, if your home is located on a 10%slope and the brush is four feet tall, the separationdistance would be two times the shrub height oreight feet. The recommended separation distancecan be accomplished by removing plants or throughpruning that reduces the diameter or height ofshrubs (shorter height means less separation isneeded). Removal works best for sagebrush. Forshrubs which readily resprout, pruning to reduceheight may be the best approach.

Recommended SeparationDistances for Shrubs,Pinyon, and JuniperFor areas with dense brush or thick

pinyon and juniper trees, the recommendedseparation distance is dependant upon shrubheight and steepness of slope. Specific recom-mendations are presented below.

Homeowner’s Guide to Calculating Percent SlopeHold this line parallel to the ground

Instructions:1. Enlarge this diagram using a photocopying machine.2. Mount photocopy on a piece of cardboard.3. Punch a hold through photocopy and cardboard at the designated

spot.4. Thread a 12-inch piece of string throught the hole and tie a knot in

the end of the string on the backside of the cardboard.5. Tie a 1-inch or larger washer to weight the other end of the string.6. Hold the designated line parallel to the ground, sighting up slope

along the edge of the cardboard.7. The weighted string will indicate the percent of slope steepness.

(For convenience, steepness of slope in degrees is presented inparentheses.)

Punchholehere

Thread stringthrough the hole

and tie a knot.

Very

stee

pM

oder

ately ste

ep

Flat

to g

ently

slop

ing

40%(18°)

20%(9°)

0 %(0°)

For example, if yourhouse is situated on a30% slope, the separa-tion of tree canopieswithin your defensiblespace should be 20 feet.Creating separationbetween tree canopies isaccomplished throughtree removal.

STEP FOUR: ARE THERE LADDER FUELS PRESENT WITHIN THE

RECOMMENDED DEFENSIBLE SPACE AREA?Vegetation is often present at varying heights, similar to the rungs of a

ladder. Under these conditions, flames from fuels burning at ground level, suchas a thick layer of pine needles, can be carried to shrubs which can ignite stillhigher fuels like tree branches. Vegetation that allows a fire to move from lowergrowing plants to tallerones is referred to as“ladder fuel.” The ladderfuel problem can becorrected by providing aseparation between thevegetation layers.

Within the defensiblespace area, a verticalseparation of three timesthe height of the lower fuellayer is recommended.

For example, if ashrub growing adjacent toa large pine tree is threefeet tall, the recommendedseparation distance wouldbe nine feet. This could beaccomplished by removingthe lower tree branches,reducing the height of theshrub, or both. The shrubcould also be removed.

For forested areas, therecommended amount ofseparation between treecanopies is determined bysteepness of slope. Thespecific recommendationsare presented here. Separa-tion distances are measuredbetween canopies (outermost branches) and notbetween trunks.

Recommended Separation DistancesBetween Tree Canopies

STEP FIVE: IS THERE AN AREA ATLEAST 30 FEET WIDE SURROUNDING YOURHOUSE THAT IS “LEAN, CLEAN, ANDGREEN”?The area immediately adjacent to your house isparticularly important in terms of an effective defen-sible space. It is also the area that is usually land-scaped. Within an area extending at least 30 feet fromthe house, the vegetation should be kept....

• Lean—small amounts of flammable vegetation;• Clean—no accumulation of dead vegetation or

other flammable debris; and• Green—plants are healthy and green during the

fire season.

The “Lean, Clean, and Green Zone Checklist” willhelp you evaluate the area immediately adjacent toyour house.

STEP SIX: IS THE VEGETATIONWITHIN THE RECOMMENDED DEFENSIBLESPACE AREA MAINTAINED ON A REGULARBASIS?Keeping your defensible space effective is a continualprocess. At least annually, review these defensiblespace steps and take action accordingly. An effectivedefensible space can be quickly diminished throughneglect.

THE LEAN, CLEAN, AND GREENCHECKLIST

Emphasize the use of low growing herbaceous (non-woody) plants that are kept green duringthe fire season through irrigation if necessary. Herbaceous plants include lawn, clover, a varietyof groundcovers, bedding plants, bulbs, perennial flowers, and conservation grasses.

Emphasize use of mulches, rock, and non-combustible hard surfaces (concrete sidewalks, brickpatios, and asphalt driveways).

Deciduous ornamental trees and shrubs are acceptable if they are kept green and free of deadplant material, ladder fuels are removed, and individual plants or groups of plants are arrangedso that adjacent wildland vegetation cannot convey a fire through them to the structure. Shorterdeciduous shrubs are preferred.

Minimize the use of ornamental coniferous shrubs and trees (such as juniper, arborvitae, andmugo pine) and tall exotic grasses (such as pampas grass).

Where permitted, most wildland shrubs and trees should be removed from this zone andreplaced with more desirable alternatives (see first box). Individual specimens or small groupsof wildland shrubs and trees can be retained so long as they are kept healthy and free of deadwood, are pruned to reduce the amount of fuel and height, and ladder fuels are removed.

For some areas substantial removal of wildland vegetation may not be allowed. In theseinstances, wildland vegetation should conform to the recommendations presented in steps 2through 4. Please become familiar with local requirements before removal of wildlandvegetation.

Tree limbs within 15 feet of a chimney, encroaching on powerlines, or touching the houseshould be removed.

FIRESCAPE - FIREWISELANDSCAPE DESIGN

When a wildfire comes through your neighbor-hood, could your house survive on its own? A dramaticquestion, but one we need to consider when living inan environment where wildfire is a common occur-rence. Firescaping is landscaping that reduces houseand property vulnerability to wildfire. The goal is todevelop a landscape with a design and choice of plantsthat offers the best fire protection and enhances theproperty, surrounding the house with things that areless likely to burn. (It is imperative when buildinghomes in wildfire-prone areas that fire safety be amajor factor in landscape design.) Appropriatemanipulation of the landscape can make a significantcontribution toward wildfire survival.

Firescape integrates traditional landscapefunctions and a design that reduces the threat fromwildfire. It need not look much different than atraditional landscape design. In addition to meeting ahomeowner’s aesthetic desires and functional needssuch as entertaining, playing, storage and erosioncontrol, firescape also includes vegetation modificationtechniques, planting for fire safety, defensible spaceprinciples and use of fire safety zones.

Through proper plant selection, placement, andmaintenance, we can lessen the possibility of ignition,reduce fire intensity, and slow the rate of fire spread —all of these steps increase a home’s survivability.

In firescaping, plant selection is primarilydetermined by a plant’s ability to reduce the wildfirethreat. Other considerations may be important such asappearance, ability to hold the soil in place, andwildlife habitat value. The traditional foundationplanting of junipers is not a viable solution in afirescape design. Minimize use of evergreen shrubsand trees within 30 feet of a structure, becausejunipers, other conifers and broadleaf evergreenscontain oils, resins and waxes that allow these plants toburn with great intensity. Use ornamental grasses andberries sparingly because they also can be highlyflammable. Instead, choose “firewise” plants — thosesthat are low growing with a high moisture content. Thestems of these plants are not resinous, oily or waxy.Deciduous trees are generally more fire resistant thanevergreens because they have a higher moisturecontent when in leaf and a lower fuel volume whendormant.

Placement and maintenance of trees and shrubsis as important as actual plant selection. When plan-ning tree placement in the landscape, consider the sizeof trees at maturity. Keep tree limbs at least 15 feetfrom chimneys, power lines and structures. Specimentrees can be used near a structure if pruned properlyand well irrigated.

Firescape design uses driveways, lawns, walk-ways, patios, parking areas, areas with inorganicmulches, and fences constructed of nonflammablematerials (rock, brick, or cement) to reduce fuel loadsand create fuel breaks. Fuel breaks are a vital compo-nent in every firescape design. Water features (pools,ponds, or streams) can also be fuel breaks. Areaswhere wildland vegetation has been thinned orreplaced with less flammable plants are traditionalfuelbreaks. Remember, while bare ground is aneffective fuel break, it is not recommended as afirescape element due to aesthetic concerns, soilerosion, etc.

A home located on a brushy site above a south orwest facing slope will require more extensive wildfiresafety landscape planning than a house situated on aflat lot with little vegetation around it. Boulders androcks become fire retardant elements in a design.Whether or not a site can be irrigated will greatlyinfluence location of hardscape (concrete, asphalt,wood decks, etc.), plant selection and placement. In Lawn can be an effective landscape feature in a

FireWise landscape.

addition, prevailing winds, seasonal weather, local firehistory, and characteristics of native vegetationsurrounding the site are important considerations.

The 30 feet closest to a structure will be thehighest water use area in the firewise landscape. This isan area where highly flammable fuels are kept to aminimum and plants are kept green throughout the fireseason — use well-irrigated perennials or low growingor non-woody deciduous plants here. Lawn is practicalas a wildfire safety feature, but extensive areas ofturfgrass may not be right for everyone. Good alterna-tives include clover, groundcovers, and conservationgrasses that are kept green during the fire season. Rockmulches, patios, masonry, or rock planters are excel-lent fuel breaks and increase wildfire safety. Becreative with boulders, riprap, dry streambeds andsculptural inorganic elements.

When designing a landscape for fire safetyremember — less is better. Simplify visual lines andgroupings. A firewise landscape lets plants and gardenelements reveal their innate beauty by leaving space

between plants and groups of plants. In firescaping,open space is more important than the plants.

EXAMPLES OF SOME PLANTS FOR WILDFIRE SAFETYApprox. Sun/ Approx. Approx.Water Shade Mature Elev. Bloom

Scientific Name Common Name Needs Pref. Height Max. Month

Flowers & Ground CoversAconitum columbianum Columbian monkshood M-H S 2’ 9000 ft. Jun - JulArmeria maritima Sea thrift L-M S/PS 1 - 2' 7000 ft. n/aCerastium strictum Mouse ear chickweed M S/SP 1' 8000 ft. May - JunDelphinium spp. Delphinium M-H S/PS .5 - 3'+ 9000 ft. Jun - JulErysimum asperum Western wallflower M S/PS 1'+ 8000 ft. Jun - JulHelianthemum Rockrose M-H S < 1' 7000 ft. May - JunHeuchara sop. Coral bells M-H PS/Sh 1 - 2' 9000 ft. Jun - AugLinum jewisii Wild blue flax L-H S/PS 1 - 2' 9000 ft. May - SepPhlox subulata Moss phlox M S < .5' 9000 ft. MayPotentilla verna Spring potentilla M-H PS/Sh < .5' 9000 ft. Mar - MayRudbeckia hirta Black-eyed Susan M-H S 2 -3' 9000 ft. Jul - SepSedum lanoclatum Yellow stonecrop M S/PS .5' 9000 ft. n/aThalictrum fendleri Fendler meadowrue H S/PS 2 - 3’ 9000 ft. Jul - Aug

ShrubsBetula glanulosa Bog birch H S/SP 6 - 8' 9000 ft. n/aCornus stolonifera Redtwig dogwood H S/Sh 4 - 6' 9000 ft. n/aCotoneaster horizontalis Spreading cotoneaster M S/PS 2 - 3' 8000 ft. May - JunEuonymus alatus Burning bush euonymus M S/Sh 1 - 6' 7000 ft. n/aMahonia aquafolia Oregon grape holly M-H S/Sh 4 - 6' 7000 ft. May - JunMahonia repens Creeping grape holly L-H S/Sh 1 - 2' 9000 ft. Mar - MayPhiladelphus monogynus Little-leaf mockorange M S/Sh 2 - 3' 8000 ft. JunPotentilla fruitcosa Shubby cinquefoil M S/PS 2 - 3' 9000 ft. May - SepPrunus besseyi Western sand cherry L-M S 1 - 3' 8000 ft.Ribes aureum Golden currant M S/PS 2 - 3' 9000 ft. Apr - MayRosa Woodsii Wood’s or native wild rose M S/PS 2 - 3' 9000 ft. Jun - JulySymphoricarpos spp. “Snowberry, coralberry” M S/PS 2 - 3' 9000 ft. n/aViburnam edule Highbush cranberry H S 6 - 8' 9000 ft. May - JunYucca glauca “Spanish bayonet, small

soapweed, Great Plainsyucca” VL-L S/PS 2 -3' 8000 ft. Jun

Large Shrubs & TreesAcer glabrum Rocky Mountain maple M-H S/Sh 6 - 10' 9000 ft. n/aAlnus tenuifolia Thinleaf alder H S/PS 6 - 8' 9000 ft. n/aAmelanchier utahensis Utah serviceberry VL-M S 4 - 6' 6000 ft. MayBetula fontina River birch H S/PS 6 - 8' 9000 ft. n/aCrataegus spp. Hawthorn (several native) M S 6 - 8' 9000 ft. MayFraxinus pennsylvancia Green ash M-H S 20 - 25' 8000 ft. n/aGleditsia triacanthos Honeylocust M-H S 60 - 70' 6000 ft. MayMalus sp. Crabapple M S 10 - 15' 8000 ft. Apr-MayPopulus tremuloides Aspen M S 8 - 25' 9000 ft. n/aPrunus americana American wild plum M S/PS 4 - 6' 8000 ft. AprPrunus cerasifera Flowering plum M S/PS 8 - 10' 7000 ft. AprPrunus virginiana Western chockcherry M-H S/SP 6 - 8' 9000 ft. Apr - MayRubus deliciosus “Boulder raspberry,

thimbleweed” M S/Sh 4 - 6' 9000 ft. Apr - MaySalix amygdaloides Peachleaf willow H S/PS 20 - 30' 8000 ft. n/a

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS INMAKING YOUR HOME DEFENSIBLE

How a house is designed, where it is built, materials used in its construction and landscape, and access to the home all influence survivability during wildfire. Below arerecommendations and an illustration modified from Colorado State Forest Service’s publication “Are You Firewise?” These recommendations will make a home much easierto defend and will improve its chances of surviving a wildfire.

1. ROOF• Remove dead branches hanging over your roof.• Remove any branches within 15 feet of your

chimney.• Clean all dead leaves and needles from your roof

and gutters.• Install a roof that meets the fire resistance classifi-

cation of “Class C” or better. Local jurisdictionsmay require a higher fire resistance rating. Checkyour county regulations or with your local firedepartment.

• Cover your chimney outlet and stovepipe with anonflammable screen of one-half inch or smallermesh.

2. CONSTRUCTION• Build your home away from ridge tops, canyons

and areas between high points on a ridge.• Build your home at least 30 feet from your

property line.• Use fire resistant building materials.• Enclose the underside of balconies and above-

ground decks with fire resistant materials.• Limit the size and number of windows in your

home that face large areas of vegetation.• Install only dual-paned or triple-paned windows.• Consider sprinkler systems within the house.

They may protect your home while you’re away orprevent a house fire from spreading into thewildlands.

3. LANDSCAPE• See “Creating An Effective Defensible Space” and

“Firescape - Firewise Landscape Design.”

4. YARD• Stack woodpiles at least 30 feet from all structures

and clear away flammable vegetation within 10feet of woodpiles.

• Locate LPG tanks (butane and propane) at least 30feet from any structure and surround them with 10feet of clearance.

• Remove all stacks of construction materials, pineneedles, leaves and other debris from your yard.

• Contact your local fire department to see if openburning is allowed in your area; if so, obtain apermit before burning debris.

• Where burn barrels are allowed, clear flammablematerials at least 10 feet around the barrel; coverthe open top with a non-flammable screen withmesh no larger than one-quarter inch.

5. EMERGENCY WATER SUPPLY• Maintain an emergency water supply that meets

fire department standards through one of thefollowing:— a community water/hydrant system and/or— a cooperative emergency storage tank with

neighbors and/or— a minimum storage supply of 2,500 gallons

on your property• Clearly mark all emergency water sources and

notify your local fire department of theirlocation.

• Create easy firefighter access to your closestemergency water source.

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5

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• If your water comes from a well, consider anemergency generator to operate the pump during apower failure.

6. ACCESS• Identify at least two exit routes from your

neighborhood.• Construct roads that allow two way traffic.• Design road width, grade and curves to allow

access for large emergency vehicles.• Construct driveways to allow large emergency

equipment to reach your house.• Design bridges to carry heavy emergency ve-hicles, including bulldozers carried on largetrucks.• Post clear road signs to show traffic restrictions

such as dead-end roads, and weight and heightlimitations.

• Make sure dead-end roads and long drivewayshave turnaround areas wide enough for emergencyvehicles. Construct turnouts along one-way roads.

• Clear flammable vegetation at least 10 feet fromroads and five feet from driveways.

• Cut back overhanging tree branches above roads.• Construct fire barriers, such as greenbelts, parks,

golf courses and athletic fields.• Make sure that your street is named or numbered,

and a sign is visibly posted at each streetintersection.

• Make sure that your street name and housenumber are not duplicated elsewhere in thecounty.

• Post your house address at the beginning of yourdriveway, or on your house if it is easily visiblefrom the road.

7. OUTSIDE• Designate an emergency meeting place outside

your home.• Practice emergency exit drills regularly.• Make sure that electric service lines, fuse boxes

and circuit breaker panels are installed andmaintained as prescribed by code.

• Contact qualified individuals to perform electricalmaintenance and repairs.

FIRE BRANDS AND THE WOODSHAKE ROOF HAZARD

Firebrands are burning embers produced bywildfire which are lifted high into the air andcarried beyond the fire front. Firebrands are oneof the major causes of homes burned due towildfire.

Typical firebrand materials include pinecones, bark, and if houses are involved, woodshakes and shingles. Depending on wind speedand size of materials, firebrands can be carriedmore than one-half mile ahead of the fire front.

A shower of thousands of firebrands can beproduced during a major wildfire event. If thesefirebrands land in areas with easily ignited fuels,numerous spot fires can start. Homes locatedblocks away from the main fire front can bethreatened.

A house can be threatened by a wildfire inthree ways: direct exposure from flames, radiatedheat, and airborne firebrands. Of these, fire-brands account for the majority of homes burnedby wildfire. The roof of the house is the mostvulnerable to firebrands.

Because of its angle, the roof can catch andtrap firebrands. If the roof is constructed ofcombustible materials such as untreated woodshakes and shingles, the house is in jeopardy ofigniting and burning.

Not only are combustible roofing materialsa hazard to the structure on which they areinstalled, but they also pose a threat to otherhouses in the vicinity. Burning wood shakes canbecome firebrands, be lifted from the burningroof, and carried blocks away, and land inreceptive fuel beds such as other combustibleroofs.

Unfortunately for homeowners withexisting combustible roofs, there are no long-termreliable measures available to reduce roofvulnerability to wildfire other than re-roofingwith fire resistant materials.

Should homes be threatened by wildfire, occupants may be advised to evacuate to protect them fromlife-threatening situations. Homeowners, however, do have the right to stay on their properties if theyso desire and as long as their activities do not hinder fire fighting efforts. If occupants are not con-tacted in time to evacuate or if owners decide to stay with their homes, these suggestions will helpthem protect their properties and families.

WHEN WILDFIRE APPROACHES

Publication design and layout provided by the University of Nevada, Reno Creative Services Department under the direction of Lucy Walker. Additional support provided by the USDA Forest Service, Rocky Mountain Region, and the Colorado State Forest Service.

Evacuate, if possible, all family members notessential to protecting the house. Evacuate pets aswell.Contact a friend or relative and relay your plans.Make sure family members are aware of a prear-ranged meeting place.Tune into a local radio station and listen forinstructions.Place vehicles in the garage, facing out. Roll upwindows.Place valuable papers and mementos in the car.Close the garage door, but leave it unlocked. Ifapplicable, disconnect the electric garage dooropener so that the door can be opened manually.Place combustible patio furniture in the house orgarage.Shut off propane at the tank or natural gas at themeter.Wear only cotton or wool clothes. Proper attireincludes long pants, long sleeved shirt or jacket, andboots. Carry gloves, a handkerchief to cover face,water to drink, and goggles.Close all exterior vents.Prop a ladder against the house so firefighters haveeasy access to the roof.Make sure that all garden hoses are connected tofaucets and attach a nozzle set on “spray.”Soak rags, towels, or small rugs with water to use inbeating out embers or small fires.Inside, fill bathtubs, sinks, and other containers withwater. Outside, do the same with garbage cans andbuckets. Remember that the water heater and toilettank are available sources of water.

If a fire should occur within the house, contact the fire department immediately. Continue toinspect your house and property for embers and smoke.

Most importantly, STAY CALM!

Close all exterior doors and windows.Close all interior doors.Open the fireplace damper, but place the screenover the hearth to prevent sparks and embers fromentering the house.Leave a light on in each room.Remove lightweight and/or non-fire resistantcurtains and other combustible materials fromaround windows.If available, close fire resistant drapes, shutters, orvenetian blinds. Attach pre-cut plywood panels tothe exterior of windows and glass doors.Turn off all pilot lights.Move overstuffed furniture (e.g. couches, easychairs, etc.) to the center of the room.Keep wood shake or shingle roofs moist by spray-ing water. Do not waste water. Consider placing alawn sprinkler on the roof if water pressure isadequate. Do not turn on until burning embersbegin to fall on the roof.Continually check the roof and attic for embers,smoke, or fire.

Check out thesewebsites for further

information:Colorado State Forest Service

http://lamar.colostate.edu/~firewise

Firewisehttp://www.firewise.org

USFS Rocky Mountain Regionhttp://www.fs.fed.us/r2/fire/rmacc.html

Bureau of Land Managementhttp://www.blm.gov

FEMAhttp://www.fema.gov/reg-viii

National Interagency Fire Centerhttp://www.nifc.gov

Smokey Bearhttp://www.smokeybear.com

Fire Safe Councilhttp://www.firesafecouncil.org

American Red Crosshttp://www.redcross.org

Charcoal BriquetsAfter using the burning charcoal briquets, “dunk ‘em!” Don’t sprinkle. Soak the coalswith lots of water; stir them and soak again. Be sure they are out - cold!Carefully feel the coals with your bare hands to be sure.

CampfiresBuild campfires away from overhanging branches, steep slopes, rotten stumps, logs, drygrass, and leaves. Keep plenty of water handy and have a shovel for throwing dirt on thefire if it gets out of control.

Never leave a fire unattended! Even a small breeze could quickly cause a fire to spread.

Drown the fire with water. Make sure all embers, coals, and sticks are wet. Move rocks -there may be burning embers underneath.

Stir the remains, add more water and stir again. Be sure all burnedmaterial has been extinguished and cooled. If you do not have water, usedirt. Mix enough soil or sand with the embers. Continue adding and

stirring until all material is cooled.Feel all materials with your bare hand. Make sure that no roots are burning. Do not buryyour coals - they can smolder and break out.

Remember, a little extra caretakes only a few minutes of

your time. And it could pre-vent a wildfire.

OUTDOOR FIRE SAFETY TIPS

High Medows Fire, Jefferson County, June 12, 2000.58 homes destroyed.