4 of 4. making mineral&coloured makeup

Making Mineral Makeup Module 4 Plush Folly Ltd

Making Mineral & Coloured Makeup

A Distance Learning Course

Module 4

The products you make and the ingredients you use during this course are for personal use only and must not be sold commercially. If you intend to make and sell cosmetic products, your product

formulation must be certified by a cosmetic chemist and conform to the cosmetic regulations laid out in the DTI guide. See our EU Cosmetic Legislation workshop or distance learning course for more

details.

Plush Folly cannot be held responsible for any adverse reactions caused by handling and/or using the ingredients. As with all new products, please do a patch test if you are unsure of suitability for your

skin.

Plush Folly Ltd


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Module Four 1 Making liquid makeup products 2 Using preservatives in makeup 3 Other additives and ingredients used in makeup products 4 Face makeup products 5 Recipes making a primer, foundation and concealer

1 Making liquid makeup products Whilst moving away slightly from being 100% mineral, liquid makeup products can be versatile and are often easier to apply than powdered products. Typical liquid products that fall into this easier to apply category include eyeliner and foundation. Waters The liquid products may contain oil as part of the liquid and they are likely also to contain water. Whilst you can use tap or cooled boiled water, it is preferable to use spring, deionised, distilled or floral water. Spring water can be obtained from most supermarkets and you will find deionised and/or distilled water in hardware shops or car accessory shops. These waters are usually used in car batteries, steam irons and other electrical items to prevent a build up of minerals on the internal components. Floral waters Floral waters (hydrolats) are a by-product of essential oil distillation. To create essential oils using the steam distillation method, the aromatic plant material is plunged into boiling water. As the water continues to boil it gives off steam. This steam carries the aroma and

certain beneficial properties from the plant material. The steam is collected and cooled so that it condenses back into water. At this point there will hopefully be droplets of oil floating on the surface of the condensed water this is the essential oil that is extracted off. The remaining water is the hydrolat or floral water. This water is widely used in cosmetic products and can successfully be used in makeup products. As well as bringing beneficial properties to your makeup, it will also give the product a subtle aroma.


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Other liquid products Although not technically a water, aloe vera liquid can be used in makeup products either as a blend with water or as a substitute to water. We recommend the use of a preservative whether you are using water, hydrolats or aloe vera in your makeup products.

2 Using preservatives in makeup As soon as you use water in a makeup product you should also use a preservative. Water is a breeding ground for bacteria and once water is mixed with other ingredients it becomes an ideal environment for bacteria, yeast, fungus and mould to breed and therefore multiply. If any of these microbes become in contact with the skin or enter the body via open pores, tear ducts, nostrils or mouth, infection can develop causing all sorts of unpleasant reactions. A preservative will prevent the growth of these micro-organisms and kill off any spores present in your product.

Preservatives are an important ingredient in makeup products as the addition of a preservative will allow your product to remain clean and safe for up to three years or so. Products containing water and no preservative will have a shelf life of as little as two weeks. Since most of the makeup products created wont be used up in two weeks, even if used every day, it would be a shame to waste the product and awful to develop a skin infection due to the product going off.

The most important factor of any makeup product is NOT just how lovely it looks on your skin, but that it is safe to use. Commercial makeup will contain preservatives to allow them to remain fresh, safe to use and non-toxic during the period of time from manufacture to the time the customer is finished using the makeup product. In some cases, this extends to several years.

To prevent and control the speed of growth and volume of the microorganisms you will need to use a preservative in your makeup products that contain water. You need to include enough preservative to control microbial growth, yet not too much so as to cause allergies, dermatitis or any side effects.


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Good habits to prevent the growth of unwanted microbes

It is important to remember that if you are making natural, preservative-free makeup products they will not stay fresh for as long as commercial products. Making your products in small batches that are used within a short period of time will help to avoid the need for preservatives.

In order to minimise the introduction and growth of bacteria in your freshly made makeup, there are some sensible practices you can adopt.

Be sure your hands, work surface, and utensils are scrupulously clean when creating your products. This will help ensure that you do not introduce bacteria or contaminate your batch.

Store your products in a cool, dark place. Sunlight, heat and moisture all help to deteriorate your product. Always make sure that the lids are replaced after opening the container.

Use spring water, deionised or distilled water in your makeup products. Ensure that your packaging is airtight. Some products may oxidize and go rancid

when exposed to air. Avoid putting your fingers into your product. Bacteria on your fingers can be

transferred to the product in this way. Instead of using your fingers, use a clean spatula, lolly stick or cotton bud instead.

Storing your foundation or primers in an air-tight pump is a very successful method of eliminating the introduction of bacteria via transference from fingers

Keep your products cool. Store your products in the fridge and ensure that they are labelled with the production date. Note that makeup that contains a preservative does not need to be stored in a fridge, nor do makeup products that do not contain water.

What makes good preservative?

A good preservative must be one that can overcome the broad spectrum of microbes whilst ensuring that it does not harm the skin or cause weakening or deterioration to any of the other ingredients contained in the product. A good preservative will be safe for use on the skin, prevent the growth of broad spectrum activity (bacteria, mould, yeast and fungus), ensure that this growth is suppressed for the duration of the makeup products shelf life, be efficient over a wide pH range, work with other ingredients in the product and not cause any unnecessary smell or change to the product.


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Natural preservatives

Are there any natural preservatives? The answer is yes and no. Most preservatives contain chemicals and these chemicals can be natural, or they may be manmade. So let us ask if there are any natural preservatives that do not contain chemicals that you may not want to put onto your skin.

There are no 100% natural preservatives that are sufficiently adequate to keep your makeup products safe and bacteria-free for as long as an unnatural processed preservative. Commercially produced makeup products are likely to be stored in warehouses, on shop shelves and in our cupboards for up to three years (or more) and therefore need to be preserved as thoroughly as possible, which means chemical preservatives designed for longevity as well as being thoroughly tested for skin suitability.

Natural preservatives are very much still a topic of debate as there is still some way to go with regards to proof of success.

Natural and easily obtainable ingredients that may help to keep your makeup products safe for a period of time include essential oils (tea tree, thyme, rosemary), neem oil, vitamin E, vitamin C, grapefruit seed extract, rosemary extract, honey, sugar, lemon and salt. Many of these are not suitable for use in makeup products (honey, sugar, lemon, salt and so on) and many of them will add a strong aroma to the product (the essential oils).

Essential oils are natural substances that can have excellent preservative properties, but are yet to be used extensively to preserve cosmetic products. We know that essential oils used in perfumes are powerful antiseptics that kill most of the harmful bacteria and fungi without harming the human system. The addition of a single drop of sweet orange essential oil to 50g of an emulsified (water and oil) product will most likely keep bacteria at bay for several weeks.

Grapefruit Seed Extract GSE is a natural antibiotic, antiseptic, disinfectant and preservative. It is used to promote healing. Grapefruit Seed Extract, according to published sources, is effective against more than 800 bacterial and viral organisms, 100 strains of fungus, and a large number of single-cell and multi-celled parasites. Sounds good, but it can be irritating to skin so always patch test first.

Essential Oils Those with the best preservative properties include tea tree, lemon, benzoin, cinnamon, clove, eucalyptus, lavender, rose, rosemary, sage, sandalwood and thyme. Unfortunately the levels of essential oil required to boost the preservation to acceptable proportions would make the product too strong in terms of both aroma and potency to apply to the skin.

Blended preservatives

The preservative we have provided you with for use during this course is either Microkill COS or Optiphen. We have no preference towards one, both work in the same way and both have been tested extensively for skin safety both in the short and longer term.


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Each of these preservatives contains phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol. Microkill also contains chlorphenesin. Between them, these individual ingredients create an odourless, clear, slightly emollient liquid that will kill off all known instances of fungus, mould, bacteria and fungus. Both preservatives are used in baby products.

Im sure that if you search through the internet you will find both positive and negative reports on the individual ingredients. At the time of writing, there is no trend that makes these preservatives either better or worse than other similar products on the market, but knowing how fickle cosmetic emotions are, no doubt that at some point they will drop out of favour and probably back in again!

Another preservative that is getting some interest is Microkill ECT (not to be confused with Microkill COS mentioned above). Microkill ECT has been approved by ECOcert and can be used in organic products.

Microkill ECT can be broken down into benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, glycerine and sorbic acid. It works by creating an environment that bacteria cannot thrive in (an acid environment think lemons and vinegar as preservatives). However, the pH will more than likely need to be adjusted as this will be too acid for the skin. To adjust the pH to a more skin friendly level, you will need to add an alkali such as diluted sodium hydroxide.

Please do take time out to satisfy yourself that whatever preservative you choose, it is suitable for skin, wont have an adverse reaction with any of the other ingredients you are using, that it wont bring any unwanted odour or colour to your product and that it will do what it is supposed to do without causing any concerns.

The internet is a useful tool for research but it can also act as chief scaremonger when information is not fully understood and reported in a shock, horror, probe! type fashion. Both phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol have had their fair share of bad press and yet if they werent safe, they wouldnt be approved for use in cosmetic products nor have the proven track record they both currently enjoy.

How do I know if my preservative works?

In order to be able to sell your products legally, your formula (makeup recipe) will need to be approved by a cosmetic chemist (toxicologist) and if it contains water and therefore a preservative, it is likely to require challenge and stability tests.

Every cosmetic product that requires a preservative will have a different need. Several factors have an impact on which preservative is best for that particular product

Type of product leave on creams need different levels of preservative than a shampoo.

Use of product a mascara may require a different preservative to a lipstick.

Shelf life the longer you wish your makeup product to last, the more preservative you will need to use.


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Typically, if you have no preservative, your water-content product will last a few days to a few weeks.

With the addition of a preservative such as grapefruit seed extract at 1%, you will extend the shelf life to a few weeks to a few months.

With the use of a recognised, suitable preservative such as Microkill at 1%, you will extend your products shelf life to 1 year. Challenge test In order to prove that your preservative works you can pay to have your product challenge tested. If you plan to sell your makeup products, this test is compulsory. A challenge test is a test undertaken in a laboratory. Your makeup product will be introduced to millions of microbacteria and tested over a period of time, usually six weeks, to see how much, if any, of the bacteria are thriving. If, at the end of the test, there are unacceptable levels of bacteria remaining in your product, it will fail the test. If the levels of bacteria are non-existent your product will pass and you will be able to take your product to market. Stability test A stability test is a test undertaken in a laboratory. Your makeup product will be subjected to changes in conditions such as temperature, light and movement. If, at the end of your test, which is usually over a three month period, the product has separated, deteriorated or changed in some other unacceptable way, it will fail the test. If it remains as you expected, then it will pass and you will be able to take your product to market. The main problem with natural preservatives is that they are not likely to be strong enough to ensure product safety over a prolonged period of time. Non-aqueous products

Makeup products that do not contain water are unlikely to require the addition of a preservative as there is no water to encourage bacteria growth. Products such as powder / pressed powders, cream eye shadows, lip products and primers will have a natural shelf life of more than a few months plus providing they are used and stored properly.

The formula for these products will still require being checked (safety assessed) and certified by a cosmetic chemist, but no physical testing of the product is required. These tests are much quicker and consequently usually much cheaper than the challenge tests.


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What actually happens if the product goes off?

The first side effect that you are likely to notice is spots of greyish green mould growing on the surface of your product. Other indications may be that the product has developed an off or rancid smell or that it feels a little stingy (acid) on your skin. This is due to a change in pH.

The product may discolour or turn cloudy when it was previously clear. It may also become thinner and runnier.

Do not be afraid to use a preservative! They are safe and effective if used properly. Keep your makeup containers, your work surfaces, equipment, utensils and hands clean to help your products fresh and free from grizzly microbes. Throw away a product if you believe it has gone off.

3 Other additives and ingredients benefits So far, during the course we have looked at a range of functional ingredients that are required to enable a makeup product to work properly and feel good. We still have a few to go so let us discuss these here and learn about why we might consider including them.

Ingredient Name

INCI label name Function / benefit

Cyclomethicone Cyclomethicone Gives fabulous glide across the skin. Imparts a silky, powdery feel on the skin. Goes on as a liquid but dries quickly leaving no greasy or sticky residue. Key ingredient in a primer

Iso Propyl Myristate Iso Propyl Myristate Derived from the fatty myristic acid found in oils such as coconut oil, iso propyl myristate will impart a silky feel on the skin whilst moisturising. Dries leaving no sticky or oily residue. A very useful ingredient in a primer

Olive squalane Squalane Derived from olives, this very nourishing clear liquid penetrates the skin well. Stuffed full of anti-ageing, anti-oxidant properties whilst being light and silky. Glides across the skin leaving a slightly dewy residue


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Ingredient Name

INCI label name Function / benefit

Melon seed oil Momordica Charantia (Melon Seed) Oil

A wonderfully nourishing oil that penetrates the skin well. Melon seed oil is absorbed quickly and thoroughly leaving no oily residue. Melon seed oil is healing, protecting and gentle and a good source of vitamin C

Rice bran oil Oryza sativa (Rice) Bran Oil

An extremely nourishing oil rich in vitamin E. Rice bran oil will condition the skin and help treat any inflamed areas. It is antioxidant, anti-wrinkle and skin softening

Rosehip oil Rosa Canina (Fruit) Oil Rosehip is a healing oil rich in vitamin A. It helps reduce the signs of scarring and will encourage new skin grown whilst repairing damaged tissue

Avocado oil Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil

Avocado oil is a light oil that penetrates the skin well leaving no traces of oil on the surface. Avocado oil has anti wrinkle and skin soothing properties and it actively encourages new skin cell regeneration. It is rich in vitamins A, B1, B2, B5, D & E and is known for its healing abilities

Rose water Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Distillate

As with all floral waters, rose water is a by-product of essential oil production via the steam distillation method. Rose water has a subtle, pleasant aroma and will help to skin hydrated. Rose water will help to calm any red patches and treat broken capillaries

Essential oil various Essential oils are potent active ingredients and only one or two drops can make a big difference in treating a skin complaint. Essential oils have a strong aroma and will perfume your makeup products. See the chart below for suitable essential oils and their properties


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Essential oils, skin suitability and benefits

Carrot seed All skin types

Daucus Carrota Rejuvenating effect, smoothes and softens

Cedarwood Oily skin

Cedrus Atlantica Brings relief to itchy skin and helps balance oily skin

Chamomile (Roman) Dry, sensitive skin

Anthemis Nobilis Very soothing for dry skin and rashes

Frankincense Mature, dry skin

Boswellia Carterii Reduces oil production, marvellous skin rejuvenator for more mature skin. Soothing and healing

Geranium Combination skin

Pelargonium Graveolens

A well rounded essential suitable for both oily and dry skins. Soothes insect bites as well as burns and sores. Geranium also helps to reduce bruising and improves blood circulation

Lavender All skin types

Lavandula Angustifolia

Helps treat wounds and burns and will speed up the healing process. Said to help with scar reduction. Fabulous at cooling sun and windburn and will sooth itchy skin

Neroli Mature skin

Citrus Aurantium Great for broken veins and stretch marks. Helps stimulate cell renewal and therefore regenerates skin

Patchouli All skin types, problem skin

Pogostemon cablin

Helps to renew and regenerate skin tissue and cells. Fights infection and fungal infections. A great all purpose skincare treatment

Rose Dry skin

Rosa Damascena / Rose Otto

Fabulously rehydrating and moisturising especially for dry and sensitive skin. Reduces redness and inflammation

Sandalwood Dry skin

Santalum Album Very rehydrating and superb for treating dry and chapped skin. Also useful in balancing oily skin

Tea Tree Problem skin

Melaleuca Alternifoli

Known for its antiseptic qualities, tea tree can be used to treat wounds, spots, pimples, rashes and infections

Ylang Ylang All skin types

Cananga Odorata Helps balance the secretion of sebum and will help both dry and oily skin types

Essential oils should be added at levels of 0.5% or less. This equates to a maximum of 15 drops per 100g / 100ml of ingredients.


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My personal recommendation is to start by adding one or two drops only and decide whether that is sufficient in terms of aroma. It only takes a couple of drops to make a difference in terms of active properties ie. how it will affect your skin.

4 Facial makeup products Whilst we wear colours on our lips and eyes, the main area of our face cheeks, forehead, nose and chin are made up with products that match our natural skin tone as closely as possible. Blending colours to match different skin tones Different skin tones can be made using a blend of red, yellow, black and white. Red and yellow can be mixed to get the basic colour and then lightened using white and darkened using black. Before you embark on blending your colours, let me just take you to the cosmetics counter to choose a foundation. You have many decisions to make. Once you have decided what brand and style of foundation you want to buy, you then have the fun of finding the perfect colour match. And that is the part that many of us find the hardest......and if we find it hard to choose from the skin tones on offer, then imagine how hard your making cosmetics task might be actually blending those colours! Foundation When blending colours for foundation you have the added complexities of using oxides to obtain a matt finish rather than micas which may be too shimmery for the entire face area. Oxides need to be crushed so that you dont end up with streaks. When blending skin tones, start with red oxide and yellow oxide and crush these together to form a non-streaking browny orange. Now adjust the browny orange with titanium dioxide or zinc (both of which will help to lighten the browny orange colour as well as offer sun protection) or add black oxide to darken the colour.


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Add a little colour at a time then blend/crush/blend/crush to break down the powders into finer particles and to allow the colours to blend together to form a skin tone. When you feel you may have got the colour you are aiming for, add it to your chosen medium (a powdered mineral makeup base of talc, cornflour, magnesium stearate as described in module 2 and later in this section) or to a liquid makeup base as described later in this section. Test a little on your skin if you are at home you can test it straight onto your face, the perfect way to see if it is too dark, too light or absolutely perfect! Take a little of your foundation and apply it to your jaw line. Check how it blends into your skin in different lights so walk over to the window with your mirror as well as checking in the mirror in a less well-lit area of the room. Adjust the colour by adding more crushed colour as necessary remember to always add a little at a time. If you have scales that measure in tiny quantities or are using tiny spoons, please make sure you keep a record of the colours as you add them. This will make it much easier for you to repeat the exact same colour when you need to make more of the product. Applying foundation with a brush or sponge gives you a better finish than applying it with your (clean) fingers. Using a brush or a sponge will help you get into the crevasses down the side of your nose. Bobbi Browns website has an informative video showing you how best to apply your makeup - www.bobbibrown.co.uk/cms/learn/video/how_to_face.tmpl?cm_re=FOOTER-_-TOUT1-_-10Step Check out the Bare Essentials site just one of many mineral makeup sites for you to investigate. They give you information on how to apply your makeup, tips and tricks to get you started and a breakdown of the ingredients and individual colours used in their products. Primers A primer is put onto your face before you apply your foundation. Ideally you should apply it 10 minutes before you apply your foundation. The role of a primer is to smooth out uneven skin tone, prevent your foundation from being absorbed into your skin and prevent your foundation from wearing off during the day. A primer contains ingredients such as silicones and squalane which help set your foundation giving it longevity on the skin. They can also help to plump up skin temporarily preventing your powdered makeup from forming creases. Different areas of the face may require different primers depending on the skin type and condition. Primers can be applied to the delicate eye area, the cheek/chin area and the lips before applying makeup.


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Primers applied to the lips tend to be matt and a little drier than primers applied to skin. Lip primers prepare the lips for lipstick and lip gloss and help to keep the product stay on the lips longer and reduce the chances of the lip products bleeding. Some face primers are coloured and have the function of colouring your skin too. My preference is to have a colourless primer and a coloured foundation.

Concealers Concealers are similar to foundation in that they provide cover, but they are designed to have better coverage and are therefore useful for disguising dark circles under the eyes, hiding spots and other skin blemishes. They typically take the format of a stick, but can also be a cream or liquid. A concealer should either match your skin tone or be a very tiny bit lighter. It is applied before you apply your foundation, so the foundation is applied over the concealer. If you are using a concealer to hide broken or thread veins, broken capillaries, red blotches, or a birthmark, you should add a little green chromium oxide to the concealer as this will help to diminish the red areas.

5 Recipes primer, foundation and concealer Smooth and sophisticated face base skin primer Ingredients

10ml cyclomethicone 1ml vitamin e 3ml fractionated coconut oil 4ml olive squalane Optional 2 drops carrot seed essential oil (or other suitable essential oil) 1 drop ylang ylang essential oil (or other suitable essential oil) Method Place all the ingredients into the pump or serum bottle and give the bottle a good shake. Label the bottle so that you can identify the contents. Container: airless pump, serum bottle


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Application: massage two or three drops to skin with clean fingers. Wait ten minutes before applying moisturiser and foundation. Shelf life: 12 months Natural look foundation Ingredients

Powder base 0.5g magnesium stearate 1.5g talc / kaolin 1g cornflour 0.5g zinc oxide 0.5g pearl mica 1 tiny white spoonful gold mica 0.2g (a large pinch) potato starch Oil base a few drops of jojoba oil OR rice bran oil OR melon seed oil 2 drops ylang ylang essential oil (optional) Colours Oxides : Red, yellow, black, white oxide powder colours Ultramarine : Blue Honey beige 1 tiny white spoonful red oxide 2 tiny white spoonfuls yellow oxide 1 pinch blue ultramarine (approximately tiny white spoon) tiny white spoonful black oxide (more if you wish to have a darker shade) Titanium dioxide (optional to lighten the colour if above blend is too dark for skin tone) Mocha almond tiny white spoonful red oxide 1 tiny white spoonful yellow oxide 1 pinch blue ultramarine (approximately tiny white spoon) 1 tiny white spoonful black oxide (more if you wish to have a darker shade) Titanium dioxide (optional to lighten the colour if above blend is too dark for skin tone)


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Method Mix all the ingredients in the powder base together in a small bowl. Add the jojoba (or rice bran or melon seed) oil and mix again until fully absorbed. Add the drops of essential oil (if using) and mix thoroughly. A separate bowl, grind and crush the colours until they are thoroughly blended. Adjust the colour by adding more black oxide or titanium dioxide as necessary. Perform a streak test on a piece of paper or on the back of your hand. If streaking occurs continue to crush and grind the colours until no streaking occurs. Carefully add the crushed coloured powders to the powder/oil bases a little at a time until they are thoroughly blended. Put in suitable container and label. Container: sifter container Application: apply with suitable foundation brush such as kabuki brush Shelf life: 24 months Fresh look powder foundation Ingredients

Oil Phase 5ml fractionated coconut oil 5ml avocado oil 5g emulsifying wax Water Phase 35ml spring water 3ml glycerine 5ml cyclomethicone Powder Phase 0.5g magnesium stearate 1.5g talc / kaolin 1g cornflour 0.2g (a large pinch, 1/3rd teaspoon) potato starch Other 0.5ml preservative


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Powder colours Oxides: Red, yellow, white, black Mica: Gold Warmed taupe 1 tiny white spoonful red oxide 2 tiny white spoonfuls yellow oxide tiny white spoonful black oxide (more if you wish to have a darker shade) Sweet ebony tiny white spoonful red oxide tiny white spoonfuls yellow oxide 1 pinch blue ultramarine 1 tiny white spoonful black oxide (more if you wish to have a darker shade) Method Weigh the ingredients and place the ingredients for the oil phase in a heat-proof jug or bowl and place the jug/bowl in a pan of simmering water. Place the ingredients for the water phase in a heat-proof jug or bowl and place the jug/bowl in a pan of simmering water. While these are warming/melting slowly, prepare your powder base as described in the powder foundation recipe. Grind and blend and then add the colour as required. Do not grind the mica, add this last once your grinding and crushing are complete. Once the e-wax has melted, remove both the jugs/bowls from the heat and pour the waters into the oils jug/bowl. Stir gently for at least one minute, longer if possible. After the initial stirring, put the jug/bowl to one side and stir again every minute or so. If the mixture starts to separate, stir a little faster than you have been to incorporate the oils and waters. If this fails and the mixture still separates, place the jug/bowl back into the simmering water and stir until the mixture blends together again. Remove from the heat and stir gently until the mixture cools down (repeat if the mixture separates again). If it continues to separate, add another 1 or 2g e-wax and melt the wax into the mixture. As the mixture cools, it will become slightly thicker and more viscuous. Once the mixture has cooled to tepid add the preservative and stir thoroughly. Add half the coloured powder base and stir again. Make sure there is no powder base lurking at the bottom of the jug/bowl. Continue to stir until all the colour has been thoroughly combined. This may be sufficient colouring, in which case your foundation just needs to be put into containers. If you would like slightly more coverage, continue to add the coloured power base until you have a more opaque product.


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Adjust the colour if necessary until you have the shade required. Once the mixture is cold, place it into the container. Label the container. Alternatively add to a small bottle, adjust the remaining colour and add to a second bottle. Adjust the remaining colour and add to a third bottle. Making several slightly different colours allows you to test the foundation colours for different skin shades. To change the consistency, add more e-wax (to make it thicker) or a little more water (to make it runnier). Container: airless pump, lidded jar or bottle Application: apply with clean fingers or makeup sponge Shelf life: 9 months

Brighter complexion, creamy foundation Ingredients Creamy base 8ml fractionated coconut oil 1ml vitamin E oil 2ml rice bran oil 2g beeswax 1g rice bran wax Powder base 1 teaspoon talc teaspoon cornflour teaspoon magnesium stearate Powder colours Oxides: Red, yellow, white, black Mica: Gold, pearl mica Golden glow tiny white spoonful gold mica 1 small blue spoonful pearl mica 1 tiny white spoonful red oxide 2 tiny white spoonfuls yellow oxide tiny white spoonful black oxide (more if you wish to have a darker shade)


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Method Powder colours - place the powders and the oxide colours into a small dish or ramekin and blend until all the powders are thoroughly mixed together without any streaking. Add the micas and stir well. Creamy base place the waxes and oils (NOT the vitamin E oil) into a small heatproof jug or bowl and place over a heat source until melted. Remove from the heat and stir well. Add the vitamin E oil. Add the powder colours and mix well until thoroughly incorporated. Place into a container and label. Container: Screw top jar

Application: apply with clean fingers or makeup sponge Shelf life: 12 months

Easy over bling shimmer Ingredients 1 teaspoon talc teaspoon cornflour teaspoon magnesium stearate 1 teaspoon gold mica Method Place all the ingredients into a small dish or ramekin and blend until all the powders are thoroughly mixed together. Place into a container and label. Container: sifter container or lidded pot Application: apply with suitable makeup brush Shelf life: 18 months


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Hide for cover concealer stick A dual function concealer stick this one covers and treats as it has healing vitamin rich rosehip oil, hydrating, skin softening, antioxidant rice bran oil and anti-aging, antioxidant olive squalane. Ingredients Oils/wax 4ml rosehip oil 7ml rice bran oil 5ml olive squalane 8g beeswax Powders 0.5g magnesium stearate 0.5g kaolin clay 1g talc 0.5g zinc oxide 0.5g cornflour Colours Oxides: Red, yellow, black, white Make this one shade lighter than your own skin colour. Method Place oils/wax ingredients in a heat-proof jug or bowl and place the jug/bowl in a pan of simmering water. Allow the wax to melt, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile mix the powders together in a small bowl and add the colours to match one shade lighter than your skin tone. Grind and crush the oxides as usual until you are sure no streaking will occur. Add the powder / colours to the melted oils/wax mixture and stir so that they are thoroughly mixed in. Your ingredients may try to set hard before you are ready. If this is the case, place the container back into the saucepan to re-melt. Pour the melted coloured mixture into the twist up container and leave to set before putting the lid onto the container. To make this even more beneficial, you could consider adding a couple of drops of a suitable essential oil. Do bear in mind that essential oils will add a mild aroma to your concealer.


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Container: twist up stick or small lidded pot Application: apply directly to skin from container or via clean fingers if using to cover a pimple Shelf life: 18 months Creamy concealer for tired eyes Ingredients Oils/wax 8ml fractionated coconut oil 5ml jojoba oil 2ml cyclomethicone 4g beeswax Powders 0.5g magnesium stearate 1.5g talc 0.5g pearl mica 0.5g cornflour Colours Oxides: Red, yellow, black, white, green Make this one shade lighter than your own skin colour. Method Place oils/wax ingredients in a heat-proof jug or bowl and place the jug/bowl in a pan of simmering water. Allow the wax to melt, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile mix the powders EXCEPT FOR THE PEARL MICA together in a small bowl and add the colours to match one shade lighter than your skin tone. Grind and crush the oxides as usual until you are sure no streaking will occur. Add the pearl mica and then add the powders / colours to the melted oils/wax mixture and stir so that they are thoroughly mixed in. Your ingredients may try to set before you are ready. If this is the case, place the container back into the saucepan to re-melt.


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Pour the mixture into the screw top container and leave to set before putting the lid onto the container. To apply, dab a little around the eye area and gently blend over dark circles. Apply regular foundation over the top. Container: screw top lid Application: apply to skin using clean finger Shelf life: 18 months Thats it! You are now armed with the knowledge and skills to make a huge variety of makeup products. Enjoy experimenting, blending colours and modifying the recipes in this course to suit.

4 of 4. making mineral&coloured makeup

Documents

liquid makeup products

face makeup products

cosmetic products

spring water

boiling water

condensed water

remaining water

mineral makeup module