23 AUGUST 2018 VOL. 8

E.O.P.C.

Essential oils , Perfumery & Cosmetics

OFFICIAL NEWSLETTER FOR BNAEOPC MEMBERS

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Content:

3 organic and naturals beauty shows to check out ......................................................................... 3

A safe and effective way to whiten teeth .......................................................................................... 4

Advances In Anti-Ageing For Skin ......................................................................................................... 4

Beauty products among US goods afected by tarifs as China strikes back in trade war ........... 5

Blue light, screens, and skin care: do consumers even care? ......................................................... 6

Dry Shampoo Efficacy: A Clinical Study .............................................................................................. 7

Ex-vivo tests: cosmetics without human testing .................................................................................. 7

How cosmetics can take the lead in reducing plastic pollution ..................................................... 8

Instagram inluence: new nail art brand launches ............................................................................. 9

Lush’s new foundation: a revolution of no packaging for colour cosmetics? ............................ 10

Preformulation, Characterization, and In Vitro Release Studies of Caffeine-Loaded Solid Lipid Nanoparticles. ....................................................................................................................................... 11

“Safe” Chemicals Used In Makeup and Skincare Doubles Cancer Risk ...................................... 11

Structural Analysis of Macrofibrils in a Human Permanent Waved Hair by Scanning Microbeam Small-Angle X-ray Scattering Measurements .............................................................. 15

Study Shows How Weather Changes Skin Texture ........................................................................... 15

Sun care data shows consumer confusion remains high ............................................................... 16

Sustainable packaging: eye on the guys .......................................................................................... 17

Team created to source best essential oils ....................................................................................... 18

The 2020 Color Trend Forecast Has Arrived and We Can Hardly Wait ......................................... 19

Three Scientific Studies Agree – UV Nail Lamps Are Safe! .............................................................. 20

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3 organic and naturals beauty shows to check out By Lucy Whitehouse

We round up our top picks for exciting European shows dedicated to beauty and personal care products in the naturals and organics space.

The consumer enthusiasm for products with natural and organic credentials, a major segment for the industry, has not let up and continues to grow.

According to the Soil Association’s 2018 Organic Beauty & Wellbeing Market Report, the segment saw a

+24% growth year to date of certified organic beauty & wellbeing in the UK, for example. This was another year of double-digit growth on what was a +13% sales growth in 2017,

making it the 7th year of consecutive growth for the sector. And while traditionally the growing interest in natural and organic beauty has been led

by European players, it is now being fuelled by consumer appetite on a global scale: natural and organic cosmetics sales increased by 21% in Asia during 2017, according to Ecovia Intelligence.

3. Natural & Organic Products Europe This is one of the biggest trade shows dedicated to natural & organic products, and

shares a focus with the food industry. The show hosts an edition of the show in London, usually in April, and another in

Sweden in November, dedicated to the Scandinavian market. It is run by Diversified Communications UK, publishers of Natural Products Magazine and Natural Products Global.

“The 2018 event hosted even more established brands, start-ups and new launch products into the natural beauty & spa market,” organisers explain.

2. GO! Organic Festival More than a traditional trade show, the London-based GO! Organic Festival also has a

focus on other industries, with a section dedicated to beauty and personal care players. It takes place in London in September. The festival organisers say it is dedicated to “showcasing all things organic”, with “more

than 100 food, drink and lifestyle brands with tasty organic treats, lots of beer, amazing live music, celebrity chefs, inspiring talks and entertainment for the whole family.”

1. Sustainability & Naturals in Cosmetics Linking together two major, dominant consumer demands that often share a crossover of

interests and demands, this show is the only one on our list which is solely dedicated to beauty and personal care.

Its first edition took place this year, and organisers hope to build on its success with the next event - 14-15 May in Berlin, Germany, 2019.

“With consumers becoming increasingly conscious of sustainability issues, a signiicant number are making the switch to natural and sustainable beauty products, and companies are facing the challenge of adapting their practices to stay ahead of the market,” say organisers.

“As the irst of its kind, this conference will tackle this by providing the industry with a much-needed platform to discuss innovation and new trends in sustainability and naturals in cosmetics.”

SOURCE: www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com

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A safe and effective way to whiten teeth

Blue-Light -Activated Nano-TiO2@PDA for

Highly Effective and Nondestructive Tooth Whitening” ACS Biomaterials Science & Engineering

In the age of Instagram and Snapchat, everyone wants to have perfect pearly whites. To get a brighter smile, consumers can opt for over the counter teeth-whitening treatments or a trip to the dentist to have their teeth bleached professionally. But both types of treatments can harm teeth. According to an article published in ACS Biomaterials Science & Engineering, researchers have now developed a new, less destructive method.

Teeth can become discolored on their outer surfaces when people consume colored foods and drinks, such as coffee, tea or red

wine. As a result, many people turn to non-invasive whitening treatments that bleach the teeth. Currently, the most common bleaching agent is hydrogen peroxide, which steals electrons from the pigment molecules that cause teeth discoloration, and this process can be sped up by exposing teeth to blue light. But high concentrations of hydrogen peroxide can break down a tooth’s enamel, causing sensitivity or cell death. So, Xiaolei Wang, Lan Liao and colleagues wanted to see if a different blue-light-activated compound could be a safer, but still effective, alternative.

The team modified titanium dioxide nanoparticles with polydopamine (nano-TiO2@PDA) so that they could be activated with blue light. In a proof-of-concept experiment, the nano-TiO2@PDA particles were evenly coated on the surface of a tooth and irradiated with blue light. After four hours of treatment, the whitening level was similar to that obtained with hydrogen-peroxide-based agents. The group notes that no significant enamel damage was found on the surface of the tooth, and the treatment was significantly less cytotoxic than hydrogen peroxide. In addition, the nano-TiO2@PDA therapy showed antibacterial activity against certain bacteria.

The authors acknowledge funding from the National Natural Science Foundation of China, the Science Foundation of JiangXi Provincial Department of Education, the Natural Science Foundation of Jiangxi Province, the Key Development Plan of Jiangxi Province and the Foundation of Jiangxi Provincial Department of Health and Family Planning Commission.

Note: ACS does not conduct research, but publishes and publicizes peer-reviewed scientific studies. SOURCE: American Chemical Society

Advances In Anti-Ageing For Skin

The Formulation Science and Technology Group (FSTG) will be holding a seminar

programme on ‘Advances in Anti-Ageing for Skin’ on Tuesday 18 September 2018 at

Burlington House in London.

wine. As a result, many people turn to non-teeth. Currently, the most common bleaching agent is hydrogen peroxide, which steals electrons from the pigment molecules that cause teeth discoloration, and this process can be sped up by exposing teeth to blue light. But high concentrations of hydrogen peroxide can break down a tooth’s enamel, causing sensitivity or cell death. So, Xiaolei Wang, Lan Liao and colleagues wanted to see if a different blue-effective, alternative.

The team modified titanium dioxide nanoparticles with polydopamine (nano-

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The FSTG is a subject group of the Royal Society of Chemistry, London. It is the leading scientific organisation dedicated to product formulation and acts as a community for the exchange of knowledge in formulation in its broadest sense.

‘Advances in Anti-Ageing for Skin’ will feature

presentations from some of the leading experts in this area,

including: Dr Anjali Mahto, Consultant Dermatologist at St Thomas’s Hospital discussing the skin ageing process, and Dr Chris Flower of the CTPA looking at the Cosmetic Products Regulation.

For more information about the FSTG and its events visit http://formulation.org.uk/ SOURCE:https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/26320/advances-in-anti-

ageing-for-skin

Beauty products among US goods afected by tarifs as China strikes back in trade war By Amanda Lim

China has hit back in the

escalating trade war with the US by imposing tarifs of up to 25% on $60bn worth of US goods which include cosmetics, fragrances, and ingredients like mica powder and zinc oxide.

China announced its intention to impose additional tariffs on 5,207 items from the United States with four levels of tariffs – 5%, 10%, 20%, and 25%.

Cosmetics caught in crossfire From coffee and cereal to biodiesel and leather hides, it seemed like no item was spared

from additional taxation by the Chinese government. Beauty products were among the goods that faced the heaviest tax penalty. Lipsticks,

fragrances, and nail polishes will be subjected to an additional 25% tariff, so were popular beauty ingredients like cocoa butter and coconut oil.

Beauty-related goods in the second-highest 20% tier were items like hair brushes, face powders, and hair removal creams, as well as perfume bottle components and salicylic acid.

Commonly used cosmetic ingredients were included in the list as well. Mica powder, talc, zinc oxide, and titanium oxide are some that will be taxed an additional 10%.

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China is currently the world’s second largest cosmetics market after the United States. China Cosmetics Market Report 2014-2017 reports that it is worth approximately 200bn yuan ($29.3m).

At this rate, American beauty brands stand to risk losing more market share as the new tariffs may cause Chinese consumers to shift away from them and to domestic brands or those from other regions such as South Korea or Europe.

Countermeasures and retaliation China’s announcement came right after United States revealed its intention to penalise

China by increasing the tariff rates on a proposed list of $200bn Chinese products from 10% to 25%.

In a statement by the Ministry of Finance (MOF), China called the United States out for its “serious violations” of rules set by the World Trade Organisation, which they said threatened to damage China’s national interests and the interest of its people.

A statement by a spokesperson on the Ministry of Commerce (MOC) website stated that the United States has forced China’s hand by repeatedly escalating the trade situation

between them. The online statement asserted that China’s countermeasures were considered rational

and restrained. “China has to take necessary counter measures to defend the country’s dignity and the

interest of the people, defend free trade and the multilateral system, and defend the common interest of all the counties in the world,” the statement stressed.

The United States and China, the world’s two biggest economies, have been engaged in a fierce trade dispute for months. While the two nations have each other in their crosshairs, the interconnected nature of today’s world economy threatens to cause a ripple effect on other regions, including Asia. SOURCE: www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com

Blue light, screens, and skin care: do consumers even care? By Lucy Whitehouse

Consumers are not concerned about the impact of blue light onto the skin, and count sun damage, air conditioning, dust and diet among factors they believe have more of an impact on skin’s appearance.

This is according to the latest market report from Mintel, market research firm.

“Exposure to heavy blue light/high energy visible light (HEVL) from electronic devices such as computers and smartphones has become a daily occurrence for many consumers,” explains Roshida Khanom,

Associate Director, Beauty & Personal Care at Mintel.

Consumers are right to be a bit skeptical, the analyst suggests, as there is currently little definitive proof that HEVL exposure can impact the appearance of skin.

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more of an impact on skin’s appearance.

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However, Khanom notes that scientific studies as recent as this year suggest such exposure may accelerate pigmentation changes and add fine lines and wrinkles.

“It is clear from our research that most consumers are unaware of the damage HEVL is capable of doing to our skin,” she says.

“Brands have an opportunity to rewrite the traditional anti-ageing narrative, and advocate a new set of pro- health skin solutions that are driven by blue light protection.”

While many Brits are virtually inseparable from their mobile devices, there is little awareness that electronic devices may be damaging our skin too (5%).

Not so smart - mobiles' impact on skin Rather than blue light from mobile devices, consumers in Mintel’s research, carried out

by Lightspeed among 1,008 female internet users aged 16+ in May 2018, picked out other factors that they worry are impacting on their skin’s appearance.

When it comes to internal influencers, for example, sleep is considered to have the biggest impact on the appearance of skin for 62% of female facial skincare users, rising to 67% of those aged 55+.

Meanwhile, diet (54%) and water consumption (46%) round up the top three internal factors women believe are impacting the appearance of their skin.

In terms of external factors, one in five (21%) facial skin care users believe air conditioning is having a negative impact on their skin; meanwhile, 11% believe dust is taking its toll.

Finally, while Brits are quick to pinpoint a whole host of influencers on the wellbeing of their skin, a quarter (24%) of facial skin care users say they are resigned to the fact that genetics hold the key to looking good. SOURCE: www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com

Dry Shampoo Efficacy: A Clinical Study

According to Julie Fichot, Ph.D., of Church &

Dwight, not all dry shampoos formulas are created equally. "Some are not as effective at removing sebum and can lead to poor sensory effects," she explained during her poster presentation at the TRI-Princeton 8th International Conference on Applied Hair Science.

In this video interview, she presents efficacy and sensory findings from clinical and consumer studies of the Church & Dwight Batiste product. Watch it now here.

SOURCE: www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com

Ex-vivo tests: cosmetics without human testing

The cosmetic industry has faced a complete regulatory revolution in the last 20 years. The change from the European Directive to the Regulation in 2009, increasing the safety requirements for cosmetic products, centralizing the notification of all cosmetics products placed on the EU market or the introduction of a “responsible person” was a unique milestone for the cosmetics industry. The EU showed an increasing awareness of the products

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circulating on the European market and how are they produced and tested. The framework has naturally developed under the social pressure against animal testing, which was banned in the EU in 2013.

A global concern The Animal testing ban has changed the behavior of both the industry and the

customers. Nowadays other countries, including the U.S., are following the European lead. Not only ethical concerns but also increasing tendency inside the scientific community to disregard animal testing data as not being proved reliable are motivating these regulatory changes.

How to avoid it? New methods using synthetic skin can provide the most accurate, less time-consuming

answers for a new philosophy of producing cosmetic products. Consequently, the clinical trials’ failure rate can be drastically decreased and reduce the final cost of manufacturing

through the application of these new techniques. The Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) test method is a good example of this new

vision, using the same patron of the human skin copying its physiological and biochemical properties.

These methods will gradually become the best way to comply with the European legislation while also respecting the environmental and social responsibility. Obelis, as one of the most experienced companies of the sector, is ready to be part of your business success, guiding you through the new challenges – contact us to safeguard your products’ compliance

with the European regulation!

SOURCE: Victor Pastor Martin, http://obeliscosmetics.net

How cosmetics can take the lead in reducing plastic pollution By Lucy Whitehouse

In this guest article, a packaging expert takes us through some key ways that beauty and personal care players can lead in the fight against plastic packaging waste.

Here, Rachel Morgan from the Adelphi Group, shares some insights from the packaging

producer’s perspective. Under pressure: consumer and regulatory push With the increasing worldwide resentment of plastic waste, many in the cosmetics

industry are feeling the pressure to rise to the challenge and face up to their environmental responsibilities.

Doug Woodring from the Ocean Recovery Alliance wrote recently that “switching to

alternatives might not save the world, but the usage of plastics sends a message to customers that a brand is not on top of an issue of growing global importance”.

Packaged Facts agrees, stating that more and more consumers are “leaning green”, wanting to feel that they are making healthier, safer choices in the products they use.

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And with an increasing number of celebrity advocates, the pressure for high profile cosmetics companies to address this global issue looks set to continue.

Potential game changers One potential solution is to change the ways that products are packaged and prepared,

although of course this must be achieved without compromising product quality. Cutting out plastics within the manufacturing process is a simple yet tangible way of

using less disposable materials. The Adelphi Group of Companies, based in the UK, are working to promote the

sustainable and eco- friendly nature of re-useable stainless steel process equipment, as an alternative for cosmetics and healthcare customers.

Key industry eforts Recent moves by major players including Procter & Gamble and Unilever in the field of

recyclable beauty and personal care packaging certainly suggest it’s fast becoming a key area

of innovation and investment for the industry With eco-friendly consumer concerns having just been picked out by Euromonitor as one

of the top four global packaging trends for the industry, the recent focus on recyclable packaging seems savvy.

P&G last year announced that its Head & Shoulders brand is set to produce the ‘world’s

first’ recyclable shampoo bottle, set to be retailed in France. Meanwhile, Unilever has also asserted that it is committing to similar development: the

consumer goods giant states that by 2025, it will ensure that it is technically possible for all its plastic packaging to be reused or recycled.

SOURCE: www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com

Instagram inluence: new nail art brand launches By Lucy Whitehouse

On the back of the widespread Instagram popularity of its founder, nail artist Sophie Harris-Gleenslade, a new press-on nails brand has been launched in the UK.

A sign of the huge potential that influencers online can have on real world trends and product development, the new brand ‘The Illustrated Nail’ takes the name Harris-Gleenslade uses as her handle on the popular image-sharing social media site.

The Illustrated Nail’s distinctive

hand-painted nail art has a loyal 500k following on social media, according to

the new brand, and her designs are worn by some of the biggest names in the industry and are featured in magazines such as Vogue, Elle and i-D.

Launching with Boots in August, the press-on nails are perfect recreations of the artist’s intricate and most popular hand-painted designs, according to the brand, making the range the first of its kind to hit the market.

Inluencer impact: not to be underestimated

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The intimacy and authenticity demanded by consumers from their beauty brands means digital advertising and engagement has become huge business for the industry.

As noted in a recent report by The Drum, beauty players that harness this potential are the ones doing the best when it comes to rocketing growth.

“The color-cosmetics category particularly appeals to the vlogger generation, due to its

visual nature, fueling a burgeoning demand for make-up tutorials. This is where disruptors dominate in making connections at scale,” explains The Drum’s Greg James.

“Take UK beauty and skincare brand Charlotte Tilbury as an example. Charlotte Tilbury has 256 videos currently on YouTube and 574,828 subscribers,” he says.

“By comparison, L’Oréal Paris UK & Ireland’s oicial YouTube channel has 660 videos but only 45,290 subscribers. Personality power, authenticity and novelty combine to disrupt and empower a new brand to succeed.”

Partnership with UK manufacturer The new Illustrated Nail brand is being launched in partnership with British beauty

manufacturer H&A. H&H says the brand has already attracted strong interest: Holly Humphreys, Licensing &

Marketing Manager at H&A, says: “We’re delighted to be launching such gorgeous products in partnership with Sophie.

“We’ve received so much interest in the range since our launch event at the Christmas in July Festival, the brand is so exciting and different - it’s time for something new in nails!”

SOURCE: www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com

Lush’s new foundation: a revolution of no

packaging for colour cosmetics? By Lucy Whitehouse

Earlier this summer, Lush launched a new foundation product - the Slap Stick - which ticked several boxes for major consumer demands: it’s packaging free, vegan, and meets the

needs of diverse skin types. The Slap Stick is a range of 40 solid egg-shaped foundations, and is the latest addition to

Lush’s ranges of solid haircare, perfumes, toothpastes and sunblock. The product is made with natural ingredients and claims to be 100% vegan, as well as its

40 shades making it relevant to a wide variety of skin tones. “The long-standing ‘naked’, packaging-free range from the brand offers an alternative to

liquid products that generate plastic waste, often ending up in the ocean. Slap Sticks are Lush’s latest solid offering,” explains market research firm Mintel, which has said the product ‘raises the bar’ for packaging-free cosmetics.

Packaging, ingredients: major challenges Kayley Thomas, Project Manager at Lush, currently leading the make-up division, spoke

to Mintel about the inspiration behind the new Slap Sticks. She explains that reducing plastic is a passion for Lush, and suggests that usually,

makeup is one of the worst categories for plastic packaging. “When bought online, Slap Sticks arrive in a small matchstick-style cardboard box. These

are pretty durable and fully recyclable, with a vegan coating so minimising the chance of products staining the box,” she explains.

However, the naked colour cosmetics concept, while certainly a talking point and good marketing ploy, may not be suitable in its current format longer term.

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“We’re under no illusions that this product will be a little messy compared to heavily packaged foundations, but that in itself is an interesting talking point,” explains Thomas.

“In fact, we’re working on new longer term packaging solutions, still in line with our credentials, and we’re also developing a makeup bag speciically designed to house a new wave of naked products.” SOURCE: www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com

Preformulation, Characterization, and In Vitro Release Studies of Caffeine-Loaded Solid Lipid Nanoparticles.

Abstract Encapsulation of active agents in solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) is an alternative to

other controlled release systems for topical delivery. In this study, caffeine was encapsulated in SLNs to produce a delivery system with controlled release. Caffeine-loaded SLNs (Caf-SLNs) were prepared using the double emulsion method with homogenization and ultrasonication. The characterization studies were performed using dynamic light scattering (DLS), zeta potential, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) analyses. The encapsulation efficiency tests were performed using UV spectrophotometry. In vitro release studies were conducted using a dialysis bag technique and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) for the quantification of caffeine (Caf). The results from the DLS analysis showed that all formulations had a polydispersity index <0.3 with particle sizes <210 nm. The DSC and SEM results showed that Caf was dispersed in the SLNs. The encapsulation efficiency was 49.22%. The release studies indicated that after an initial burst at 3 min, the SLNs released Caf in a controlled manner over a 6-h period. Taken together, the SLNs can be used as a carrier for the topical delivery of Caf.

For the full article: https://www.scconline.org/caffeine-loaded-solid-lipid-nanoparticles/

“Safe” Chemicals Used In Makeup and Skincare

Doubles Cancer Risk by Katherine Corkill

Banging The Chemicals Cause “Cancer” Drum Is So Tired! Well I had hoped to not be broaching this subject yet again. However there was an

article that I took exception to this month that was written by a gal in the UK for the Epoch Times. My particular concern is through her attempted proclamations of fact there was not a single link to support her objective.

I have read countless arguments, misconstrued facts, skewed data only to see yet again another article that goes beyond the pale of exploiting the phobia of chemicals by removing the premise that once known “safe” chemicals in low doses are found to be acceptable in things we consume in our everyday lives, may no longer be the case. It has a single purpose, to scare us out of enjoyment of our personal care products based on an ideology.

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I have shared within my articles through direct text links to the many studies showing the inaccuracies while always countering with peer reviewed studies where a consensus is formed as to the truth of any research that is conducted. In the interest of keeping this simple, and I do apologize, but since the details are quite involved in the science, direct links to what I share are provided for further reading on your own. But bear with me as I lay out some facts.

Let’s Take A Look At How This Statement Has No Basis In Reality In the authors original article it was titled ‘Safe’ Household Chemicals Combine To

Double Cancer Risk. When you click on this piece you’ll notice how the main photo addresses directly what she is trying to convey in terms of industry as a whole whether it be environment or household products. The main focus addressed is Bisphenol A.

Now we come to just a week later from the last published date, and though the title and article have been entirely regurgitated, ‘Safe’ Household Chemicals Combine To Double

Cancer Risk, you’ll now notice when clicking again on this link it brings up a whole new look geared toward makeup, skincare and personal care products! In fact the comment beneath the photo is, “Researchers found that the combination of arsenic and estrogen increased

cancer in prostate cells. Both chemicals are found in makeup.” Uh… excuse me what study are we referring to in order to make this type of

extrapolation? I view this as the worst form of overstating the actual research being performed in this particular study she is pointing to. There is absolutely nothing that correlates to personal care products! Here is the synopsis provided directly from the University. Click Here and scroll all the way to the bottom.

Let’s Clear Up The Nonsense Remember, I am not defending all chemicals or denying that there aren’t many out

there that can and do cause harm in our environment and in our bodies, but to try to relate as putting something on our skin because a certain ingredient that is found in our environment whether we breathe it in or ingest it will somehow cause same, is just irresponsible to spread among the populace. This requires blood brain barrier penetration which has yet to be conclusively proven happens in the use of cosmetics or personal care products.

Fact: The researchers at Texas Tech University are studying two chemicals Arsenic and chemicals that can mimic estrogen like BPA, that are taken up in our environment, followed by us then being exposed through ingestion or breathing them in.

Fact: There is no research in this study involving women or the use of personal care products, makeup or other. The study revolves entirely around prostate cancer risks when exposed to these two chemicals. Therefore, the objective of this study was to evaluate the effects of chronic exposure to inorganic arsenic such as what is found in pesticides, and estrogen, both alone and in combination. Areas of study were smoking, coal mining, coal burning, and water.

Fact: All studies were performed on mice and in vitro using human prostate epithelial cells (RWPE-1) that were purchased from ATCC and propagated in keratinocyte serum free medium supplemented with human epithelial growth factor and bovine pituitary extract.

Fact: As always the studies showed that in most cases the increased effects in cells were dose dependent showing some significance, yet countered with certain types of genes tested were insignificant. This continued through their different testing to determine which factors show the most significance as it relates to the increase in prostate cancer cells. Never arriving at absolutes at this point!

Fact: The research is only the beginning to try to learn more about our exposures to chemicals in our environment, yet they concede in discussion that these chemicals are ubiquitous in our environment and we will always be exposed to them in our lifetimes. Plus to date it is the only study of it’s kind and though published in a peer reviewed journal, this study provides novel data on the regulation of genes involved in epigenetic reprogramming that could help in understanding of epigenetic mechanism for As and E2-induced prostate

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cancer. Additionally, this finding will serve as the foundation for future studies on the epigenetic basis for environmental carcinogen-induced human cancers.

Now Let’s Base Our Ideals In Reality Not Fallacy So that is the study in a nutshell and I did read the

entire abstract until my eyes went crossed and my brain melted. You are welcome to view it HERE, whatever suits your fancy. Although it may be an interesting beginning to learning more, this study has yet to be peer reviewed by their own admission and is a NOVEL study just touching the very tip of this monstrous iceberg, we call scientific research.

It hardly calls for the alarm to be sounded by those that wish to take this further than the reality founded in science. Plus the reference to well water in the Epoch Times article is also of concern, yet the majority of people except for

certain countries listed, are drinking either their bottled waters or treated water provided by their respective city. The water that was tested the author referenced was in Cornwall, England and it relates to scattered private wells throughout the community. Original study is here, which explains why and how this can occur.

As I continue to read on, it was only when I finally reached the sub chapter “Environmental Sources” of the UK authors article that it all made sense. It smacked of the agenda put forth by the Campaign For Safe Cosmetics trying yet again through this author propagating this same tired mantra, by now trying to tie a prostate cancer study to that of women finding these same chemicals in their makeup.

I might have found her article credible and even remotely interesting until she slipped in this 2nd paragraph right below the sub chapter. “Other sources of arsenic include rice, non-organic chicken, and makeup. According to the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, some top-brand eyeliners, eye-shadows, mascaras, and foundations can be contaminated with arsenic.”

Say what! …..are we eating our cosmetics now? I mean really, why this correlation when the environmental study as it relates to prostate cancer, which was the main focus of her article gets totally lost as soon as she tries to make these two areas related. It simply amazes me when this campaign or it’s proponents will seize on a single research study and

then use it in an attempt to convince the public “we are doomed” because we use makeup and skincare products. With this latest publication by Epoch Times this anti-chemical agenda is becoming quite transparent, even any comprehension at this level is also lost on the fact that just about everything in life is chemicals, natural or synthetic. They are not mutually exclusive!

Furthermore, the CFSC organization has yet to provide peer reviewed research proving that certain individual chemicals solely are the cause for mimicking estrogen in our bodies, let alone doing anything that we expose our skins surface to. Estrogen comes from many variables including foods, and scientists have been unable to fully identify origins of estrogen types found in our bodies. But I guess it is so much more practical and easier to blame the synthetic chemical industry.

So maybe through ingestion of estrogens since this is a direct feed to our blood brain barrier we can find these in our bodies, but topical application does not extrapolate same unless we are dealing with nano materials such as hormone patches (a drug), not a skin cream (a cosmetic). Natural phytoestrogens are found in plants and produce plant-derived xenoestrogens. Yet in the Texas Tech University study this was also a main component of concern yet we don’t know conclusively if natural or synthetics are the culprit.

National Library Of Medicine / National Institute Of Health (NCBI) has an excellent abstract as to their research on the Pros and Cons of Phytoestrogens. So again, as in life, there will be checks and balances for living our lives and nothing is black and white, although many try to make it so and in many cases it is always to the negative because that is what gets the reader to perk up and take notice, sadly.

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As it clearly states not only in the Texas Tech University study but the American Cancer Society provides perspective on environmental factors and how they relate to cancershowing the majority of these exposures are ubiquitous and we consume them through fruits and vegetables, tap water, smoking, exposure in manufacturing, pollutants, etc.

So Let’s Bring This Baby Home The very last thing she states in her Epoch News article is, “Health campaigners

recommend limiting exposure to these hormone disruptors by consuming organic food, drinking filtered water, and using natural personal-care and cleaning products.”

Okay now let’s examine the reality of this statement which shows a lack of understanding the truth in regards to a chemical being ubiquitous and we’ll use the claim

from the CFSC in Rice for an example. Arsenic is divided into 2 broad categories: Organic arsenic and inorganic arsenic. Organic arsenic is essentially harmless and is ubiquitous in our environment. Inorganic

is created through use of different pesticides. And higher trace levels of inorganic or organic arsenic, depending on where it is grown, are found in brown rice rather than in white rice since white rice is essentially brown rice, stripped.

The FDA has weighed in on rice food products and has done testing, and the European Food Safety Authority, the United Nations Codex Alimentarious Commission and China’s

Food Safety Commission are trying to establish limits for inorganic arsenic in foods, including rice. China has a maximum level for total arsenic in rice of 0.4 microgram per kilogram. Note this is addressing foodstuffs!

Plants accumulate organic arsenic because it protects them from harmful micro-organisms, especially fungi. Rice isn’t unique in this.

“All plants pick up arsenic,” states John M. Duxbury, PhD, a professor of soil science and international agriculture at Cornell University in Ithaca, N.Y. “Concentrations in leaves of plants are much higher than in grains of plants. Thus, leafy vegetables can contain higher levels of arsenic than rice, especially when they are grown on arsenic-contaminated soils.”

So the statement of fact is: although they are measuring arsenic levels in food products reflected in these statements, the reminder is, ingestion is not the same as topical application in any context. This is especially true when our skin acts like a barrier, making it practically impermeable to things in our environment. Plus through critical thinking we must acknowledge all food, including our healthy, leafy greens contain some measure of this contaminant making consumption literally impossible to avoid. Yet, the many proven health benefits we get from consuming fruits and vegetables watered and grown in any soil can far outweigh trace amounts of any contaminant found within the plant itself.

Last Time I Wish To Revisit This Issue Although I keep tabs on articles that stretch the facts and reach for the moon, I really

am no longer interested in pursuing this side of the industry. I will simply refer to this article analysis since it really is based on the fact this Epoch Times piece goes beyond reporting when trying to string an environmental agenda together with a safe cosmetics campaign. Both completely different areas in consumption of contaminants, yet it does create one piece of “sensationalism” all for piquing ones real fear to chemicals. It is not the right thing to do and it is negates the true research since it gets lost in the blinding rhetoric.

Besides, if this is what the author truly believes and clearly she must since she wrote it, then on her recommendation of using natural products, she should be well advised of the fact that all natural products have less testing performed for safety and allergens than their synthetic counterparts, and the ingredients used even after a level of purification, may still include trace elements of all the contaminants she is worried about.

Plants are grown in soil, they take up rain or irrigation water and as it has been stated repeatedly throughout these links I provided, organic arsenic is there and will always be there in our foods and water until the end of time. So unless one plans to starve themselves or waste away from thirst, this is the inconvenient truth, whether we care to believe it or not.

I vote for consumer freedom and getting at the truth in research and I continue to advise everyone to check and double check the resource in order to gain a perspective of what

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the true agenda is of the person writing the article. Never take things at face value! This is still a favorite write up by The Center For Consumer Freedom in regard to NGO’s and another great piece written by Society of Toxicology on how the media continually overstates risk. Now, last but not least and I think my most favorite article since it really drives the science home is The Journal of Toxicology of the NCBI states quite clearly that the parent company EWG of the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics has got it wrong, again.

Well it’s been fun and I think I have provided plenty of substantive science to correct much of the junk science floating across the internet, but this gal has covered this type of issue for the last time. Now on to more pleasant things such as keeping in step with a fabulous life ahead!

SOURCE: https://personalcaretruth.com/category/science/

Structural Analysis of Macrofibrils in a Human Permanent Waved Hair by Scanning Microbeam Small-Angle X-ray Scattering Measurements

Journal of Cosmetic Science | Vol. 69 No. 2 Authored by Maki Fukuda, Yuki Marubashi, Teppei Nawa and Reina Ikuyama SYNOPSIS It has been experimentally shown that hair subjected to permanent wave treatment quickly changes into uncurled hair during daily hair-care activities. However, the mechanism of curl fallout has not been clarified. In previous studies, the relationship between permanent wave treatment and disulfide bonds in hair has been studied. Because permed hair falls out its

waves without any chemical treatment, we focused on the hair microstructure rather than the disulfide bonds. To examine the relationship between the hair curl shape and the intermediate filament (IF) organization in hairs, scanning microbeam small-angle X-ray scattering measurements were performed. It was found that in permed hairs, the IF orientation on the convex side of the curvature was different from that on the concave side. By contrast, for permed hairs with curl fallout, the IF orientation on the convex curvature side was not significantly different from that on the concave side. Our findings suggest that the curl shape of permed hairs is related to its anisotropic IF orientation between the convex and concave side of the curl, and control of this IF orientation will allow for effective reduction of curl fallout. For the Full Article, https://www.scconline.org/structural-analysis-of-macrofibrils/

Study Shows How Weather Changes Skin Texture

Cooler temperatures are imminent for the Northern Hemisphere—is your skin ready? Recent research in the British Journal of Dermatology found that climatic factors have the

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potential to influence skin health, especially its moisture levels and texture. These results may influence how consumers alter their skin care from season to season.

Previous research on the topic found that seasonal occurrences, such as humidity or rapid temperature changes from outdoor-to-indoor environments, can negatively affect skin. The present research explored levels of filaggrin, which helps maintain the skin barrier, and other breakdown products during various seasons.

“... This latest study is interesting as it sheds new light on further reasons for seasonal skin changes, at a cellular level. Given that skin problems are the most common reason for people to visit their doctor, any research that improves our understanding of skin disorders and how to best manage them is always a positive step,” said Nina Goad, British Association of Dermatologists.

Methods The study’s 80 healthy subjects comprised 40 male and 40 female volunteers, of which

half were aged 18–40 years and half aged ≥ 70 years. Researchers tape-stripped volunteers’ cheek and dorsal hand skin in both the winter and

summer to analyze natural moisturizing factors (NMF) and corneocyte surface texture (Dermal Texture Index, DTI). They then observed with high magnification that skin cells suffered from shrinkage in the winter, which changed the surface texture, elevating DTI levels.

Results also showed that during winter, cheek skin samples experienced reduced NMF, with higher losses in older participants. The hand skin samples showed almost opposite results—there, NMF levels were higher in the winter than summer, with female participants experiencing higher levels overall than their male counterparts.

In short, the study suggests winter weather conditions cause facial skin to become drier and more textured than during warmer months.

Takeaways The authors hope these findings will influence consumers and other individuals to wear

season-appropriate skin care, such as emollient formulations in the winter and sun protection in the summer; although consumers should not necessarily limit their sun care to summertime-use.

“This study shows clearly that the skin barrier is affected by climatic and seasonal

changes. Both children and adults suffer from red cheeks in the winter in northern latitudes and some may even develop more permanent skin conditions such as atopic eczema and rosacea,” said Jacob Thyssen, M.D., Ph.D., senior author

SOURCE: www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com

Sun care data shows consumer confusion remains high By Lucy Whitehouse

Latest data and analysis from research firm Mintel suggests as many as 40% of UK consumers struggle to know what is the best type of sun care to use.

The data comes as part of the firm’s recent release of insights into the facial skin care market in the UK, which found that spending is currently at £1.15bn and is set to rise 15% to reach £1.36 billion in 2023.

Sun damage: impacting skin appearance

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Sun damage is picked out by consumers as the key factor perceived to impact the appearance of skin, according to Mintel, with 72% of facial skincare users believing sun exposure has the greatest impact.

This is followed by pollution (41%) and cold weather (39%). Many women believe the sunshine is playing havoc with their skin as 31% of facial

skincare users worry about the impact of the hot weather. However, according to Mintel, consumers remain unsure how best to protect themselves

with sun care. SPF confusion The summer season, especially this year’s heatwave across Europe, has pulled sun care

into focus for consumers and the industry alike. Mintel’s research, however, finds just under half (47%) of women use facial skincare

products containing SPF, with 39% using a specific sun protection product and 13% using other facial products containing SPF.

Despite high usage, there remains confusion around sun protection, as 40% of female

facial skincare users find it diffcult to know which level of sun protection to use on a daily basis.

Analyst’s view: Roshida Khanom Roshida Khanom, Associate Director, Beauty & Personal Care at Mintel, said: “Whilst sun exposure is considered the biggest external factor impacting the appearance of

skin, usage of SPF on the face is relatively low. “This suggests that despite knowing about the impact of sun exposure, many women are

choosing not to protect themselves. “Confusion in the sector could be a reason, presenting an opportunity for brands to do

more to help women understand how best to use sun protection on a daily basis. “Young women, who are more likely to use different types of sun protection products on

their face, may benefit from advice on how to layer their sun protection. “Apps that recommend products to add to facial skincare routines on particular days, for

example, could help clear up confusion.” Media fuelling confusion Some industry experts suggest media reports can fail to offer clarity, and in some cases,

can promote ‘confusion’ around sun care. Indeed, earlier in the summer the CTPA (the UK’s trade association for beauty and

personal care), released reassurance for consumers when it comes to trust in sunscreen products.

The move followed the publication by Which?’s 2017 Sunscreen Report, in which the consumer products reviewer found one product tested did not measure up to protection claims. The other 13 products tested, however, did.

The CTPA described the report as ‘concerning’. SOURCE: www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com

Sustainable packaging: eye on the guys By Lucy Whitehouse

One market research firm suggests that sustainable packaging may ofer a key way to entice more men to become male grooming consumers.

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GlobalData, a market research provider, says that currently, there’s a gap in the market for brands that can offer environmentally- conscious efforts that also meet a high bar for performance. “This gap exists in many consumer categories, including male grooming, and the appeal of purchasing a responsible product for just slightly more than a traditional one is signiicant,” the firm explains. “In 2016 alone, 35% of consumers globally agreed they would be willing to buy luxury products if they were environmentally-friendly, according to GlobalData’s primary consumer

research.” Expert voice: Jamie Mills, Senior Consumer Analyst at GlobalData The firm’s analyst, Jamie Mills, explains how this trend maps specifically onto male grooming. “For brands operating in male grooming and the wider personal care space, this creates new challenges as the war on single-use plastics continues to gain traction. While much media attention has focused on the impact of food and drink packaging, personal care products face similar packaging challenges from a sustainability perspective,” she says.

“The pressure is on for these brands to showcase their proactivity and awareness of the issue in their own product ranges and innovate accordingly to provide more responsible eco-friendly solutions. “On the other hand, this also creates an opportunity for brands to take advantage of the media spotlight on plastic packaging, and in turn provide innovative offerings which can tackle the issue.” Again, the analyst confirms that brands that are able to meet the dual demand of eco-awareness and high product quality will win out in this area. “More importantly, this can offer an angle to premiumize and deliver additional value through the product offering by being both environmentally-conscious but also providing superior performance.”

SOURCE: www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com

Team created to source best essential oils

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CPL Aromas has created an internal group of specialists to sniff out the best essential oils around the world. The scheme ensures not only quality but authenticity, consistency, traceability and sustainability when sourcing materials.

The first challenges for the newly formed 'Specialist Naturals Team' took the team of 8 people to Bulgaria and then to Turkey for the 2018 Rose Oil harvests. The team comprises people from the Group's Purchasing, Perfumery, Analytical, Quality Control, Formulation Management and Regulatory departments.

Nick Moore, global purchasing director for CPL Aromas, said:" The Specialist Naturals Team has been formed as part of our new strategy for the purchasing of our most critically important essential oils. The aim of the team is to form strategic partnerships with selective suppliers at origin who can provide us with the very best quality essential oils, and who can supply us with materials of consistent quality and quantities.

"The benefit to the suppliers is that they receive our loyalty and commitment ensuring their growth alongside ours. We are proud to show our customers how closely we work with our key raw material suppliers, how we have full traceability on the oils we buy and how our strategy provides us with a sustainable supply of our natural oils".

The fact-finding trips enable the specialists to follow the entire process from picking of the roses in the fields through to distillation and extraction of the rose oil.

Rose oil can be adulterated and so an important aspect of the journeys was to educate every member of the team on how to determine pure and genuine oils and how best to test the samples received. As rose oil is such an expensive product - currently selling for €6,750 and

€8,000 per kilo- there is much scope for adulteration of materials and even more incentive for perfumers and buyers to scrutinise it even more closely. Harvests this year (2018) are much improved following poor weather conditions in 2017 which led to poor cropping. Nonetheless, prices for this precious oil are always at a premium.

Decisions are being made now as to which rose oils will be purchased for the creations of the future. The other material which will undergo similar detailed attention this year is lavender oil. Nick Pickthall, COO of CPL Aromas, said: "Our customers value the specialist expertise offered by CPL Aromas at every level of the fragrance creation process and this initiative enables us to provide a further layer of expertise to meet their briefs in an exacting and creative way".

SOURCE:https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/26275/team-created-to-source-best-essential-oils

The 2020 Color Trend Forecast Has Arrived and We Can Hardly Wait

What happens when nature-inspired earth tones meet high-tech science hues? Well, come 2020, the world is going to find out. WGSN's Beauty Global Color forecast has presented three seasonal vision trends for the beauty industry, applicable for cosmetics, hair and packaging.

According to the trend forecasting company, Spring/Summer 2020 will shift away from mid-tones and neutrals to begin focusing on cooler, futuristic hues that signify a new decade. At the same time, warm, earthy and relatable tones will remain in vogue by acting as a sort of antidote to the digital world's overwhelming influence on society.

Top trends include:

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Muted tones: Taking a page from the ever-present millennial pink, pale mint and soft orange colors are "transseasonal, versatile and gender neutral," according to WGSN, and are ideal for summer collections.

Bright citrus hues: Shades of orange and yellow are expected to move from niche beauty segments to the mainstream in 2020. Variations on these tones are expected to have "cross-generational appeal."

Earthy reds: Spring/Summer 2020 will take the classic red hue and turn it on its head with deep, earthy tones and russet influences. Expect to see this color used not only on the lips and cheeks but on the eyes as well.

Clinical influences: Cool, almost clinical blues and greens will offer a futuristic alternative to traditional summer colors, WGSN explained.

As millennial and Gen Z consumers continue to gain purchasing power, product colors will continue to reflect what attracts these generations: self-expression, quirky influences and bold visuals.

SOURCE: www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com

Three Scientific Studies Agree – UV Nail Lamps Are Safe!

Doug Schoon, M.S. Chemistry President, Schoon Scientific Dana Point, CA, USA

Three scientific studies have been performed by different laboratories, all reaching the similar conclusions – UV nail lamps are safe as used in nail salons!

Study 1 was performed by an independent laboratory, Lighting Sciences (July, 2010). This study measured the UV output of two widely sold fluorescent-tube style UV nail units (“UV nail lamps”). These results were presented in a paper that I co-authored which concluded the following concerning UV nail lamps used in salons;

UV-B output is less than what occurs in natural sunlight and is equal to what a person could expect from spending an extra 17 to 26 seconds in sunlight each day during the two weeks between nail salon appointments.

UV-A exposure is equivalent to spending an extra 1.5 to 2.7 minutes in sunlight each day between salon visits, depending on the type of UV nail lamp used. A UV nail lamp with two UV bulbs corresponds to 1.5 minutes and a nail lamp with four UV bulbs corresponds to about 2.7 minutes each day between salon visits.

These UV nail lamps emit relatively low levels of UV and these exposure levels are considered well within the safe levels when they are used to perform UV nail services in nail salons.

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Study 2 report from Massachusetts General Hospital and the Alpert Medical School at Brown University (December, 2012) confirms the safety of UV nail lamps saying, “Dermatologist and primary care physicians may reassure patients regarding the safety of these devices.” Also this report states the following about the potential for developing skin cancer, “UV nail lamps do not appear to significantly increase lifetime risks...” Doctors often use UV medical lamps as a therapeutic skin treatment, and such treatments are considered safe. When this study compared these medical devices to UV nail lamp output the authors stated, “…one would need over 250 years of weekly UV nail sessions to experience the same risk exposure.”

Study 3 is the most comprehensive study of all (May, 2013) – testing six major brands of

UV nail units (aka nail lamps), including three UV producing LED nail units using the appropriate International testing standards. The study was authored by Dr. Dowdy and Dr. Sayre, both world renowned experts in measuring and understanding the effects of UV and skin. Dr. Robert Sayre is one of the inventors of the SPF rating system for sunscreens. Tested were leading brands of UV nail lamps, both traditional fluorescent and LED type. The goal was to determine if these UV nail lamps: 1) produce excessive amounts of UV and 2) significantly increase the risks of skin cancer with normal salon use. We now know: They Do Not! These results demonstrate the safety of a wide range of top selling UV nail lamps and show exposures are well within safe limits.

The study demonstrates that UV nail lamps are safe as used in nail salons and these scientists found they were even safer than expected, “All of the various UV nail lamps submitted for evaluation were found to be significantly less hazardous than might have been anticipated based on the initial concerns raised…”

The study demonstrates- UV nail lamps are NOT like tanning beds, “When UV nail lamps evaluated in this report are compared together with these earlier sunlamp computations, we find that the UV nail lamps are vastly less hazardous”.

The study demonstrates that UV exposure is so low that a worker could put their hand under a UV nail lamp from this study for 25 minutes each day without exceeding established internationally accepted safe limits or “permissible daily exposures”. Compared to nail salon exposures that are typically less than ten minutes per hand and performed only twice per month, clearly normal levels of exposure expected from salon services are safe.

• The study demonstrates the low risk of developing NMSC (non-melanoma skin cancer)

from using UV nail lamps, which were determined to be 11-46 times lower in risk than natural noonday sunlight. This prompted one of the authors to state publically, “UV nail lamps are safer than natural sunlight and sunlamps.”

• They concluded it was “highly improbable” that anyone would ever exceed safe levels of UV exposure “…highly improbable that even the most dedicated nail salon client or avid home user would approach this level of exposure.”

The scientists concluded that any risks presented by UV nail lamps are “comparatively

trivial”, but they did express two concerns: 1. Ensure potential users are NOT taking medications that increase UV sensitivity, since

they have been, “… advised against venturing into natural sunlight without proper protection

and should be cautious about using UV nail lamps.” Of course, that is sensible advice that should be heeded!

2. Concern was expressed that the incorrect replacement bulb may be inserted into the

UV nail lamp, e.g. those emitting UV-B or UV-C could be very harmful to the skin. Using the incorrect lamp or bulb can also lead to improper curing of UV gels. So, it is VERY important to use ONLY the UV nail lamp manufacturer’s recommended original equipment (OEM) bulb replacement.

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Other Useful Information This study cited research showing the natural nail plate has a natural UV resistance

equal to that of a high SPF sunscreen. The nail plate’s natural UV resistance is comparable to the UV resistance provided by an SPF 40 sunscreen. Also research demonstrated the hand’s

backside is 3 1/2 times more resistant than a person’s back, making the hand THE most UV resistant part of the body.

When sharing his opinions after testing these UV nail lamps, Dr. Sayre said that some “Physicians are grossly exaggerating exposures.” And of UV nail lamps he says, “…this UV source probably belongs in the least risky of all categories.”

I agree with these statements. These studies demonstrate the safety of UV nail lamps; now this information needs to reach physicians and media news outlets. This comprehensive set of independent evaluations should convince any reasonable person about the safety of UV nail lamps.

SOURCE: https://personalcaretruth.com/