07 SEPTEMBER 2018 VOL. 9

E.O.P.C.

Essential oils , Perfumery & Cosmetics

OFFICIAL NEWSLETTER FOR BNAEOPC MEMBERS

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Content:

4 Emerging Ingredient Trends for Anti-pollution Hair Care ......................................................... 3

4 novel scrub ingredients seen at IBE NY 2018 ............................................................................. 3

5 innovative beauty launches at IBE NY 2018 .............................................................................. 4

Comparatively Speaking: Silicon Dioxide, Silicon and Silicone ................................................. 8

Hair care ingredients to watch, from Mintel .............................................................................. 11

Natural and Organic Products Asia 2018 showcases organic European skin care ............ 13

Patent Pick: Unmatched Microcapsules Guarantee Delivery ................................................ 14

Research team discovers skin-whitening properties of black ginseng .................................. 15

Reverse Labeling is the Best Consumer Magnet Yet ................................................................ 16

Sun cream sheds titanium dioxide in the sea, French study suggests ................................... 17

This Lip Exfoliator Gets Rid of Dryness with Bubbles ................................................................... 17

United Arab Emirates: environmental protection claims to drive beauty sales ................... 19

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4 Emerging Ingredient Trends for Anti-

pollution Hair Care

Anti-pollution is not just for skin care, anymore. Mintel’s recent hair ingredient forecast

begins and ends with components to protect hair from environmental concerns.

Keep reading for ingredients to watch for as pollution protection moves into the hair care segment.

Related: [podcast] Is Anti-pollution Really Relevant in Hair?

Healthy Eating Food-inspired beauty is not new, but the recent rise of consumer concerns about overall

health have inspired them to link diet with beauty. The same trending ingredients linked to better hair when eaten—including those containing zinc or vitamin B—can be utilized in hair care to appeal to these health-conscious, transparency-seeking consumers.

Botanical Boom Herbal antioxidants are a good place to start when introducing consumers to anti-

pollution hair care, since their functions are simpler to communicate (according to Mintel). Botanical options include moringa, a purifying extract; Indian lotus, which creates a

barrier on hair to protect from humidity and pollution; and Kakadu plum, a potent source of

vitamin C from Australia. Turmeric Already trending in the food segment, turmeric can be utilized to soothe and cleanse the

scalp and hair after pollution exposure. The colorful ingredient’s antibiotic properties also work to exfoliate, which can help to regulate scalp conditions.

Other claims include hair loss prevention due to turmeric’s active curcumin content; this reportedly maintains scalp health to prevent hair fall.

Natural Detox

Finally, pollution exposure can lead to build-up of dead skin and trapped oil on the scalp. Ingredients with the ability to maintain hair and scalp health—by inducing healthy

blood circulation to prevent itchiness, thinning hair and flaky skin—are expected to be in demand. These include those with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory qualities, such as apple cider vinegar and turmeric.

Meanwhile, other detoxing scalp exfoliators, such as pink salt, can be utilized to give hair texture while absorbing excess oil.

SOURCE: www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com

4 novel scrub ingredients seen at IBE NY

2018 By Deanna Utroske

Indie Beauty and personal care brands are known for innovation, which means that

last week's Indie Beauty Expo in New York City was a good place to learn about the creative ways brands are formulating scrubs, polishes, and exfoliators now that microbeads are a thing of the past.

Here are 4 scrub ingredients that caught the attention of Cosmetics Design at this year's IBE NY event.

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1. Jojoba Beads Indian-inspired luxury skin care brand aavrani launched earlier this summer and used

IBE NY 2018 to showcase its collection of four products for consumers, buyers, and press. The brand's Glow Activating Exfoliator can be used as a daily cleanser or as a leave-on

mask. It's made with turmeric, neem, and both bentonite and kaolin clays. The clays ensure

that turmeric's bight color doesn't stain the skin, Rooshy Roy, co-founder and CEO at aavrani tells Cosmetics Design.

The exfoliating element in the aavrani Glow Activating Exfoliator formulation is, she

says, a gentle, round jojoba bead. 2. Epsom Salt

Carly Barrett founded Skin Juice Organics in 2015. The hero product in her natural, herbalist-informed skin, body, and bath care collection is a body scrub called The Polished Babe.

The polishing grit in her formula is a blend of sea salt and Epsom salt, Barrett tells Cosmetics Design. It's an ingredient choice that lands her product squarely in the on-trend

active recovery niche and on the forefront of an emerging salt trend. Just as brands have formulated with globally sourced waters to bring different mineral

benefits to their skin care products so too are formulators now working with salts from

around the world. (The product portfolio from First Salt After The Rain, a brand owned by the Korean company Beyondi, is another example of the coming salt beauty trend.)

3. Cruelty-Free Coral Powder

La Naturale, a skin care brand headquartered in Milan, Italy was showing (among other things) it's Exfoliating Scrub at IBE NY last week.

The scrub's pink hue comes from cruelty free coral powder, Arezu Roozbahani, a founding partner in the brand tells Cosmetics Design. And the exfoliating action of the La Naturale scrub is also attributed to the

coral: "It smooths and softens the skin, removing the dead cells...thanks to the delicate action of the Coral Powder," according to the product page on the brand's ecommerce site.

4. Olive Pits Body care brand Mademoiselle Provence, launched at the start of the year. The brand's

Exfoliating & Revitalizing Body Scrub is made with olive pits, Helene Marceau and Chloe

Mortaud, the brand's cofounders, tell Cosmetics Design. And, it's the olive pit bits that provide the exfoliating action.

SOURCE: www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com

5 innovative beauty launches at IBE NY

2018 By Deanna Utroske

This year's Indie Beauty Expo in New York City was the largest yet, featuring nearly 250 cosmetics, personal care, fragrance, and wellness brands. Among all the exhibits and demos, these 5 product launches stood out to Cosmetic Design.

Many independent beauty brands use IBE events as a launching pad —for an entire brand, for a line extension, or for a single new product. And the expos have become a place

where consumers, retail buyers, media, and consumers reliably discover the latest and greatest in indie beauty.

At this year's IBE NY, the following 5 new product launches stood out from the crowd:

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1. Spirulite Multiactive Solid Mask from ayuna less is beauty This new product rethinks body care rituals and cleansing routines and promises spa-

like benefits in the shower. ayuna's new solid mask is essentially a slice of flexible loofah filled with a skin care formula. It's applied using self-massage in the shower, left on for a few minutes, and rinsed away.

The brand's product page describes it this way: "A multifunctional bar to cleanse, renew and treat your body. Aside from cleansing the skin, exfoliating properties from the Natural Luffa fiber included within improve circulation and remove dead skin cells. The bar also contains calendula and spirulina extracts to address cellulite and dryness."

2. Lip Balm Peals from Lilu lipcare

Meg Meranus has designed and patented a practical, portable, sustainable lip care solution: tiny lip balms and lip color 'pearls' that fit neatly inside jewelry and accessories. Her brand is all about "extreme convenience," Meranus tells Cosmetics Design.

Lean more about her mini beauty packaging solution and the mini beauty movement more broadly in a panel presentation moderated by editor Deanna Utroske on Thursday in

New York City at the ADF&PCD event. 3. Hair Perfume Serum from Zodica Perfumary This scented hair serum is the latest functional fragrance to hit the market. Promising

UV filtering, nourishing vitamins, as well as shine and fragrance benefits, the new Hair Perfume Serum from Zodica Perfumary is as much hair care as it is a perfume.

The brand's full collection of fragrances are based on zodiac signs and founder Kristi

Moe's own research in to the correlations of personality, astrology, and crystals.

4. Veriphy Skincare While this brand made its official industry debut at Cosmoprof North America, founder

Alis Crumblehulme knew she had to feature it at IBE as well.

Based in the university town of Guelph, Ontario, Veriphy Skincare signals a next step in the ongoing sophistication of natural beauty formulations. The products are formulated with

a phytoglycogen called PhytoSpherix, according to Crumblehulme. She and her team are proud women working in STEM fields (Science, Technology,

Engineering, and Math). And the brand's giveback mission is a scholarship to help more

women access advanced STEM training and advance their own careers. 5. Yubi brushes and sponges from Yubi Beauty

These new beauty tools, invented by Adiya Dixon Wiggins, stood out at IBE NY 2018 with tasteful packaging, a simple intuitive design, and plush materials.

The brush and sponges snap into a devices that lets people apply makeup with a tool

while using a fingertip-application gesture. "This interchangeable set easily does the work of 10 traditional tools to give you a flawless finish in record time," promises the brand's product

page. Adding a bit of how-to, the product description continues, "Use your Buff Brush for application of your favorite cosmetics. Then remove your brush head and replace with the Blend Sponge head to pick up excess product and smooth your skin to a glowing, airbrushed finish."

SOURCE: www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com A Case Study in Logistics for Personalized Skin Care The drive for personalized consumer products is no longer a passing

fad. Personalization stems from deep motivations. The emotional wish to purchase products

created “especially for me” comes across with an understanding of diversity between individuals and the prospects for more effective solutions to meet each individual’s special

needs. However, efforts to introduce personalized skin care—i.e., for unique skin with distinctive characteristics—on an industrial scale means products formulated for generalized needs, which could not be as effective.

Furthermore, human skin has historically been characterized by type using a conventional scale to rank it from very dry, dry, normal-to-combination and oily. Yet accurate

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skin characterization includes additional factors such as pigmentation, pH, roughness, age, flexibility, etc. Indeed, the fact that so many parameters characterize skin could partly explain

why the daily application of off-the-shelf cosmetics is sometimes met with disappointment and poor results.

This led to the analysis of biomarkers to create personalized skin care. Such a method

was patented years ago and involved skin sampling, quantitatively measuring biomarkers, analyzing biomarker profiles and preparing dermocosmetics in accordance with an individual’s specific skin needs.1

Taking this a step further, two research projects within Europa’s Seventh Framework Programme for Research and Technological Development (FP7) have aimed to execute the

industrial manufacturing of such personalized skin care. The first project2, 3 sought to improve skin syndromes by developing customized topical treatments. The second project4 leveraged the achievements of the first in addition to designing the required

manufacturing facilities. The main result of these two projects is described here as an integrative personalized

skin care system (IPS). This multipart process, from skin analysis to product manufacturing, is presented as a case study toward the full-scale production of personalized skin care. The basic components are reported, as are strategies of the system. Furthermore, its proof of

concept, which was previously demonstrated, is illustrated here by developing personalized facial care products for a pilot group of 30 subjects.

IPS Process Overview Personal preferences: The IPS process begins with a questionnaire to collect the

customer’s personal information—e.g., age, gender, known skin sensitivities, and sun and

pollution exposure levels (based on work and lifestyle), along with preferences regarding product fragrance, texture and packaging.

Skin characteristics: Next, the customer’s skin is measured using non-invasive

procedures to evaluate the status of the most relevant skin characteristics. Skin profile: The data obtained from the questionnaire and skin measurements is then

processed by an algorithm that generates a personalized skin profile for each customer. Formula proposal and production: Based on the skin profile, the algorithm proposes a

customized skin care formula for the consumer’s order. In some cases, the algorithm may

identify health issues or allergic risk, and decline the initial order or generate an alternative. The formula is then finalized, including calculated pump timings for each ingredient to control the dosing. Following the consumer’s order and payment approval, final production is

executed in a two-step process, described below. Product labeling: Simultaneously, the proposed formula is transferred to a machine-

readable recipe, from which a proper label is output according to the requirements of the European Commission (EC) Regulation EC 1223/2009.5 The generation of this label involves resolving the formula to INCI names.

Product distribution: After production, customers receive products either on-site or by

mail. Customer feedback on the product and IPS experience is also collected for continuous system improvements.

Core Components The described IPS therefore includes four distinct components:

1. A mini lab for non-invasive skin measurements; 2. The multifactorial computer algorithm including learning functionality to

process both personal preferences and skin parameters, and ultimately generate the

personalized formula proposal; 3. A two-step “mother” and “mini” factory manufacturing system,6 discussed

below; and 4. A computerized production system for cross-module communication and

data integration.

Two additional components are logistics and regulations.

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Mini Lab for Skin Analysis For the present IPS process, data is first collected in vivo on various physical and

biochemical features of the skin, such as hydration, sebum secretion level, color, elasticity, inflammatory sensitivity, oxidation, metabolism, etc., to evaluate an individual’s skin health status. This data is collected non-invasively from the body site where the personalized

product will be applied; i.e., on the face for facial care, or hands for hand moisturizers. To accomplish this, a portable mini lab was designed with probes that attach to skin and quickly analyze various skin indices: hydration (by corneometer),7 pH, sebum,8 elasticity, roughness

and pigmentation. Skin structure elements also are analyzed in vivo using spectral-auto-fluorescence

measurements for: collagen cross-links, elastin cross-links, advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) and tryptophan moieties.9 This data is collected quickly in vivo in a battery of measurements, taking 5–12 min total for all tests combined. Note that tape-strips for

biochemical measurements were taken and evaluated as part of the mini lab development process, for comparison with non-invasive physical measurements.

Additional non-invasive skin biomarker tests are included; although their inclusion in the mini lab design is not yet feasible due to logistics. In the future, these will be added to the mini lab design, once their execution is less time-consuming and more cost-effective.

Specific biomarkers of interest include cytokine levels, e.g., interleukins and other chemokines; oxidation-reduction metabolism; and volatile organic compound (VOCs). Previous studies have shown that significant differences in the expression of these

biomarkers are correlated with skin and health conditions such as aging,9psoriasis,10 atopic dermatitis,10 chronic renal failure,11 diabetes mellitus12 and rosacea.13 As such, variations in

these markers warrant further analysis. Multifactorial Learning Algorithm The next major component of the IPS concept is the computerized algorithm equipped for

self-learning to process the collected data. This system performs multifactorial data mining to contribute to the sophistication of the IPS as it optimizes the selection of the personalized

cosmetic formula. Since client satisfaction is a major target of the proposed IPS, the multifactorial analysis integrates both subjective and objective information.

The algorithm-driven selection of personalized products, whose efficacy was previously

shown in FP7,14 was based on the following (see Figure 1): 1. An individual’s skin profile based on objective skin measurements. As noted,

rules for creating the profile are determined using both data mining techniques and

mathematical models. 2. The customer’s subjective preferences for product texture or form—i.e., cream,

lotion, gel; type of packaging—i.e., tube, jar, bottle; fragrance; and packaging artwork design.

3. The customer’s sun exposure level based on geographic location, place of work

and lifestyle. 4. Relevant historical background relating to personal and family health, such as

known allergies and sensitivities.

5. Existing databases from outside sources applicable for suggesting personalized treatments, such as:

Personal subjective feedback from the consumer of past product use; Personal objective feedback on treatment efficacy based on skin

measurements or physician exams;

Scientific literature of old and new skin biomarkers; Scientific literature of new and existing skin preparations and cosmetic

ingredients; and Personal adverse events, if they have occurred.

6. Self-learning by the algorithm, for further optimization of the customized

formulation and product design (see broken red line in Figure 1).

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Products developed 'especially for me' come with the prospects for more effective solutions to meet specific needs.

You can see the whole article HERE. SOURCE: www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com

Comparatively Speaking: Silicon Dioxide,

Silicon and Silicone

What's in a name? In this case, major differences in chemistry and form.

A great deal of interest has recently been expressed over the chemistry and terminology used in the preparation of silicones, especially as replacements for D4 and D5 are sought. As such, this column aims to provide an understanding of the relationships between these raw

materials and the silicones found in personal care. Silicon Dioxide

Silicon dioxide is SiO2, also is known as silica, silicic acid or silicic acid anhydride. Its name is derived from the Latin Silex. The CAS number for silicon dioxide is 7631-86-9, and the most common form of silicon dioxide is quartz. Quartz makes up more than 10% of the

Earth’s crust; it is also a major component of sand. It is estimated that 95% of commercial silicon dioxide is used in the construction industry to make portland cement, though another

use is for making glass—hydrated silica is even used in toothpaste to remove plaque. Silicon dioxide is also the starting point for making silicone polymers, although the

process for making them is equipment-intensive and produces a number of different

materials. As such, finding commercial uses for each intermediate in the process is necessary in order to run the plant in a cost-effective manner. The few plants that actually start with the silicon element, described next, and process it all the way through to silicone polymers

are called crushers; there are only a handful of companies in this group. Silicon

Silicon is element 14 on the periodic chart (see Figure 1). While it is an abundant material, it rarely is found in its elemental form. Figure 1. Elemental silicon

Silicon can also be made by the reaction of silicon dioxide and a source of carbon. This reaction, shown in Figure 2, requires a high temperature, and produces CO2 and a product with a melting point of 1,414°C:

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Figure 2. Synthesized silicon

The conversion of quartz to silicon is an amazing transformation. Figure 3 shows the starting quartz in the upper left and the

resulting silicon in the lower right.

Figure 3. Starting quartz and final silicon

The resultant silicon—without an e on the end—is ground into a fine powder and reacted with methyl chloride to make chloro-silanes via the Rochow Process. This reaction is shown

in Figure 4: Figure 4. The Rochow Process

Chlorosilanes are then hydrolyzed by the addition of water, resulting in a liberation of

HCl and a variety of species known as hydrolysates. The hydrosylates are then fractionated to yield the raw materials needed to make silicone polymers. Silanes as a group have only one Si in their molecule. Octyl trimethoxy silane is one example, shown in Figure 5:

Figure 5. Example silane

Silicone

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The term silicone, also called polysiloxane, describes a group of polymers that have repeating groups, as depicted in Figure 6. Figure 6. Silicone or polysiloxane structure

The simplest polydimethylsiloxanes are fluids, which are sold by viscosity. Figure

7 shows the most common-viscosity silicone fluid sold, and the approximate non-blended

molecular weight. Figure 7. Example polydimethylsiloxane

The molecular weight to viscosity relationship is shown in Table 1:

Table 1. Molecular weight to viscosity relationship of silicones

Organo-functional materials are made by a process called hydrosilylation. This process

reacts alpha unsaturation with silanic hydrogen (Si-H) to make a new Si-(CH2)3-R product.

SOURCE: www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com

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Hair care ingredients to watch, from Mintel By Lucy Whitehouse

The market research irm suggests that inluences from the food industry, and major

food trends, are having a big impact onto hair care ingredients. Andrew McDougall, Global Haircare Analyst at Mintel, recently revealed his expert

insight into key ingredients trends to follow.

They are: Build on healthy eating perceptions Use botanical/herbal extracts in anti-pollution haircare

Jump on the turmeric bandwagon Use natural/food remedies for a daily hair detox

“As consumers become more aware of the ingredients they eat, drink or use for beauty

purposes, interest in natural and food-based ingredients is rising,” he explains.

“Using natural food ingredients that are rich in antioxidants can be positioned to help protect hair and lessen pollution damage concerns.

" As food and antioxidant-rich ingredients cross into beauty and personal care, look for the following haircare trends that are starting to emerge.”

Healthy eating As McDougall notes, food and beauty has long been linked and now, formulating for hair

care with food ingredients taps into the rise in consumer interest in wellbeing, healthy lifestyles, and naturals.

Use trending food ingredients that are linked to better hair and skin, and vitamin and

mineral claims relating to hair maintenance, suggests the market analyst.

Herbal focus Moringa, a purifying extract that is commonly used to remove pollutants and counteract

free radical damage caused by pollution, and the Indian Lotus Flower are both ingredients to

watch, suggests McDougall. The Kakadu plum, native to Australia, is also an ingredient likely to trend in this area. “Brands should look to other natural ingredients that have similar potential as an anti-

pollution extract to help tell the botanical/herbal story,” says McDougall.

Turmeric: wonder ingredient? Turmeric can help cleanse the scalp and hair of toxins caused by pollution exposure,

suggests Mintel's analyst, meaning it can tap into consumer interest in anti-pollution claims

Further to this, its antibiotic properties make it a natural exfoliator, making it one food ingredient that meets a lot of rising consumer demands in hair care.

“Turmeric can also be used to help prevent hair loss, as it keeps the scalp healthier and helps to prevent hair fall thanks to its active chemical curcumin,” says the analyst.

Natural remedies for ‘detox’ “As well as protecting hair, brands should also look to natural food remedies that help

cleanse and detox the hair and scalp from exposure to the elements,” suggests McDougall. The Mintel analyst says that tumeric again has potential here, as well as pink salt.

SOURCE: www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com

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Natural and Organic Products Asia 2018

showcases organic European skin care By Natasha Spencer

For the irst time, Natural & Organic Products Asia will display organic European skin care along with demonstrating leading products and conducting business seminars.

On 22nd August 2018, UBM’s exhibition arm reveals that it is debuting European skin

care items at this year’s event, taking place between 29th -31st August in Hong Kong. Organic skin care

The fifth edition of the Natural & Organic Products Asia (NOPA), housed in Hong Kong, will strive to present a wide array of organic products to the global marketplace.

Organic products continue to grow in demand in the international marketplace. The food and beverages arena set to almost triple to $320.5 bn (€276 bn) by 2025, the event organiser reveals, indicating a 9.5% rise in compound annual growth rate (CAGR) in the organic

personal care market. Asia is considered to be at the centre of this global interest, UBM reports in a recent press release highlighting the upcoming Asia- based natural and organic event.

Industry cross-over

While previously, it was natural foods and beverages that reigned supreme through providing health and environmentally-conscious consumers with plant based alternatives and natural ingredients, natural beauty products are now emphasising the prevalence of

providing cruelty-free manufacturing and clean packaging. The rising nutraceuticals arena relating to natural and healthy lifestyles is increasing in popularity.

As a result, Asia is anticipated to experience the fastest growth in the burgeoning organic marketplace and be responsible for over 12% of global revenue by 2025.

Natural and Organic Products Asia frst launched in 2014 with a view to providing

insights and present products of a global natural and organic nature emanating from Asia. An impressive collection of 1,000s of organic and natural products are present hailing from global, leading companies and manufacturers.

Brands on display

A range of skin care products will be on display at this year’s natural and organic themed event. UK-based Atlantis Skincare will feature its Glowing Skin Luxury Body Oil for Dry Skin care item for example, which contains vitamins, proteins, amino acids and

antioxidants. A fellow UK name, Pure Purpose Cosmetic is also set to display its award-winning body scrub, Turmeric & Orange Co ee Body Scrub & Mask, which aims to brighten

the skin and improve skin circulation. Lifestyle choices and items that enhance and support cosmetics and personal care

routines and regimes will also be present. NOPA 2018 will also ofer visitors an insight into the healthy Swedish lifestyle in "Swedish Fika".

NOPE Live Theatre will return to this year’s event, which invites event exhibitors to enter

the innovation area to talk about their latest latest natural and organic creations and developments in 15-minute slots. This opportunity enables brands to access product

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application demonstrations, live tasting and sampling, and manufacturers questions and answers.

Providing on-trend consumer insights NOPA will also hold the Natural Business Forum as part of the three-day event. Teaming

up with leading international players such as Google, Baidu and the Federation of Beauty Industry Hong Kong, sessions will feature insights and a discussion on trends and changing consumer habits in the natural and organic marketplace.

The benefits of propolis, along with its different usage and applications; innovating with wellness technology; and ethical labels in the cosmetics industry are just some of the topic

covered at this year’s event. After undergoing a rebrand in August 2018, the newly-named Natural and Organic Asia

exhibition, which is part of UBM, follows its organiser's collaboration with Informa PLC to

grow its B2B information services and B2B events.

SOURCE: www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com

Patent Pick: Unmatched Microcapsules

Guarantee Delivery

Never before has a microcapsule been created quite like the way Procter & Gamble inventors developed this one; at least, not according to the patent application. Its

development came about from a need for polyurea or urethane-type microcapsules that can withstand harsh or challenging environments.

The resulting microcapsule is resistant to breakage and solvents, and is applicable

for delivery in fabric enhancer, laundry, phase-change and other industrial and commercial applications, including cosmetics.

Specifically, the microcapsule includes a core and a shell. The latter is produced by reacting an isocyanate; a water-dispersible, oligomerized multifunctional amine (meth)acrylate; and a carboxyalkyl(meth)acrylate. The patent application explains further.

Bolstering encapsulates U.S. Pat App 20180235893

Publication date: Aug 23, 2018 Assignee: The Procter & Gamble Company

Disclosed herein is an improved process for making a benefit agent delivery particle and consumer products incorporating it. The process includes three water phases. Water phase 1

consists of water and an initiator. Water phase 2 comprises water; a water-soluble or dispersible amine(meth)acrylate or hydroxyl(meth)acrylate; and a multifunctional (meth)acrylate. Water phase 3 comprises water; carboxyalkyl(meth)acrylate; and a base or

quarternary ammonium acrylate. The first two water phases are combined to prereact the hydroxy- or amine(meth)acrylate

and the multifunctional (meth)acrylate. This forms a multifunctional hydroxyl-amine(meth)acrylate pre-polymer. The pre-polymer is then combined with water phase 3 and an emulsion is formed by emulsifying, under high shear agitation, a second composition into

the first composition. The second composition includes an oil phase based on isocyanate and a benefit agent core material, such as a fragrance, perfume, phase-change material, biological active, antimicrobial, self-healing composition, lubricant or cooling agent.

The reaction forms a robust wall around the core material. During the process, charge can be tailored to a high zeta potential in the range from +70 to −70, at a pH of 7. According

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to these inventors, in many applications, a range from +40 to −65 can be useful. Optionally, aids can be included to increase deposition or adhesion of the microcapsules to surfaces such

as paper, fabric, skin, hair, towels or other surfaces. Patent application accessed on Aug. 24, 2018.

SOURCE: www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com

Research team discovers skin-whitening

properties of black ginseng By Amanda Lim

A traditional food research team's discovery of black ginseng's skin-whitening abilities could increase exports in an improving Korean market.

Lead by Dr Lim Tae Gyu, the research team discovered that black ginseng inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, an enzyme crucial to melanin production, when exposed to black

ginseng extract. "Since the first development of ginsenoside rapid analysis method at Korea Food

Research Institute, various ingredients and efficacy of Korean ginseng have been proved," said Park Dong-joon, President of the Korea Food Research Institute (KFRI). "Recent improvement of skin wrinkles and effective inhibition of melanin synthesis of black ginseng have been proven

to be remarkably superior to those of red ginseng." A new type of ginseng Unlike red ginseng, black ginseng cannot be found naturally. It is created from a process

that repeatedly steams and dries raw ginseng nine times till it turns into a dark brown that appears black.

Apart from changing its physical appearance, the process also causes the ginsenoside compounds to become a potent bioactive ingredient.

The research team noticed the effects of black ginseng after volunteers reported that

their skin looked brighter after applying a cosmetic that contained 0.05% of black ginseng extracts given by researchers.

Those in the experimental group noticed twice as much improvement to their skin tone

as compared to the subjects in the control group. A pronounced skin-whitening effect was further observed when the team conducted an

in-vitro clinical study with Zebrafish embryos. With this experiment, the team found that the melanin production of Zebrafish was

reduced when treated with black ginseng extract.

Researchers then confirmed that ginsenosides Rg5 and Rk1, specific ginsenosides unique to black ginseng, were found to be the main factors responsible for skin whitening by

black ginseng extract. The results of the study were published in the Journal of functional foods. Additional

studies are needed to confirm its efficacy and further explore the uses of black ginseng

extract. Creating demand for Korean ginseng Based on the results of the study, KFRI hopes that the cosmetic use of black ginseng can

increase demand for one of Korea's most important natural exports. "Considering that the importance of the country's native biological genetic resources is

increasing due to the Convention on Biological Diversity in recent years, considerable industrial ripple effect in the domestic market and export level is expected in terms of utilising ginseng, one of the special resources of Korea,” said President Park.

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South Korea has been striving to revive its ginseng industry, which faced a decline in 2011 during a global economic slump which saw demand for health food dwindle.

SOURCE: https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Article/2018/08/24/United-Arab-Emirates-environmental-protection-claims-to-drive-beauty-sales

Reverse Labeling is the Best Consumer

Magnet Yet

Be for Beauty has done something unprecedented: it's taken the ingredients found on the back of a product label and moved them to the front. But not just as the ingredient disclosure, the product is actually named after a given signature ingredient. "The Inkey List" product line—plus an accompanying searchable database—will play into the new consumer mindset focused on finding specific benefit ingredients rather than specific brands or products with a catchy name or marketing message.

The company explained the line is designed to help break through beauty jargon, delivering simple, straightforward information and the hottest ingredients in the most basic formulas. The collection includes 15 products based on "hero ingredients," selected and developed for their ability to address a number of skin care concerns. Examples include: Hyaluronic Acid, Kaolin, Caffeine, Q10, Collagen, Hemp and Retinol. Furthermore, products can be used together for customized solutions. Each product will range in price from £5-10.

"It's simple and tooled to consumers who are confused by skin care."

The company also hosts an online forum, where consumers can submit or review Q&As about ingredients and skin conditions, to help them find a product match or simply educate them. Respondents include "Inkey Listers," such as beauty editors, skin care experts, savvy friends and even other consumers.

"[This brand] has found a way to market products based on just the signature ingredient," noted Jeb Gleason-Allured, editor in chief, Global Cosmetic Industry and Cosmetics & Toiletries.

"It's simple and tooled to consumers who are confused by skin care, as well as those online shoppers who search for products by ingredient, not brand—which is a growing percentage."

Ingredients: "Retinol": Water (aqua), Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Dimethicone, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Phospholipids, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Squalane, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Extract, Carbomer, Sodium Ascorbate, Tocopherol, Polysorbate 60, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycolipids, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Retinol, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Phenoxyethanol

SOURCE: www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com

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Sun cream sheds titanium dioxide in the

sea, French study suggests

Some particles also lose protective coating

6 September 2018 / Ecotoxicology, France, Nanomaterials Swimmers' sun creams deposit titanium dioxide nanoparticles into the sea, where their

protective coatings may be washed away, according to a French study.

Last year, a team led by Dr Jérôme Labille from Aix-Marseille Université analysed titanium dioxide levels in the water off three French beaches. Their social scientist colleagues

counted the number of beach users, asked them about their sun cream use and scrutinised their sun cream labels.

Many sun creams contain titanium dioxide nanoparticles, which tend to be coated with a

thin layer of aluminium oxide or silica. This coating prevents the particles acting as light-activated catalysts (as used in self-cleaning windows).

Overall, the team estimated that about 68kg of sun cream could be used daily by 3,000 people on a small beach and detected up to 45 micrograms titanium dioxide per litre of water. The levels measured were lower than predicted from total sun cream use, however, so the

team repeated the beach experiments this summer to see what proportion of the particles adsorb to the seabed. The results have yet to be analysed.

The work is part of a project called ECO-Sun, funded by a French consortium called

LabEx Serenade (Laboratory of Excellence for Safe(r) Ecodesign Research and Education applied to Nanomaterial Development), which has 11 academic and two industrial partners.

The project aims to help develop sun creams that are "safe by design". "By considering each development stage of the sunscreen, from the choice of UV-blocker

and its integration into a cosmetic formulation, to the knowledge of the risk involved in this

choice all along the product lifecycle, a safe-by-design approach can be achieved and risk can be minimised," says Dr Labille.

Under the project, Dr Labille's team has created a number of model sun cream systems, some of which contain titanium dioxide coated with aluminium oxide or silica.

To simulate sun cream ageing, they agitated the products in either sea water or fresh

water and were surprised to discover that some of the silica-coated particles soon shed their protective coatings. Removing the coating will affect nanoparticle toxicity, by exposing the pure photo-catalytic product to the environment, suggests Dr Labille.

He now hopes to gain funding for the next step of his research, which will investigate titanium dioxide levels in rivers and closed basins. He would also like to introduce organic UV

filters into his research.

SOURCE: www.chemicalwatch.com

This Lip Exfoliator Gets Rid of Dryness with

Bubbles

Bubbling face masks have been enticing consumers and popping up all over social media

for the past year. Now, Rude Cosmetics has brought the same wow-factor to its Bubblelicious Lip Exfoliator.

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The exfoliator, retailing for $10, was created to remove dead skin from the lips, thus eliminating dryness and roughness.

How to Use: 1. Apply the product to the lips.2. After bubbles have formed, let the product sit for five minutes and allow the

AHA ingredients to emulsify the skin. 3. Massage the remainder of the bubbles in a circular motion, once the initial

bubbles have subsided.

4. Rub lips until the foam disappears and the bubbles begin to exfoliate.5. Rinse and prep the lips.

Ingredients: Water (aqua), Fructose, Dipropylene Glycol, Cellulose, Methyl

Perfluorobutyl Ether, Methyl Perflu- oroisobutyl Ether, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sclerotium Gum, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Butylene Glycol, Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit

Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract, Hibiscus Sabdariffa

Flower Extract, Plankton Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa

Root Extract, Zanthoxylum Alatum Fruit Extract, Coptis Japonica Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Propanediol, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Phytosterols, Lecithin, Olea Europaea(Olive)

Fruit Oil, Squalane, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Ceramide NP, Cyanocobalamin, Bentonite, Xanthan Gum, Fragrance (parfum)

SOURCE: www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com

Unilever expands its new eco beauty

brand: Love Beauty and Planet By Lucy Whitehouse

Following its successful launch in the US at the start of this year, Unilever’s brand Love Beauty and Planet has now seen a rollout across the UK.

It is the frst personal care brand launch made by the multinational consumer goods player in 20 years, and taps into the ever rising demand for beauty that is both ethical and environmentally aware.

Its rollout in the UK suggests Unilever is confdent that the brand can build on its successful frst period in the US.

The brand includes products such as face masks, shampoos, conditioners, and body washes, and is now available in UK retailers, including Boots.

It boasts vegan-friendly claims, and also pledges that all ingredients will come from certifed sustainable sources by 2020.

The brand uses bottles made from post-consumer recycled plastic, and these themselves are also recyclable.

Vegan spotlight

Vegan claims have become big business in Europe, and not just in food.

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British health food chain Holland & Barrett, for example, recently announced plans to open vegan-only stores, as well as stock more vegan food and beauty products.

Mintel’s Global Beauty and Personal Care Analyst, Andrew McDougall, has spoken of the impact the trend is likely to have onto beauty sales.

“Our research shows that young consumers (Gen Z and Millennials) are driving these lifestyles, with a growing desire to follow a plant-based diet,” he explains.

“Younger consumers are also very informed on what is in their products and ethical and natural factors are very important to them.”

Eco-conscious brand

According to Chris Barron, vice president of beauty and personal care at Unilever UK and Ireland, the launch of the company’s new Love Beauty and Planet brand forms part of Unilever’s wider Sustainable Living plan.

"Love Beauty and Planet reflects our passion at Unilever to enable everyone to live more sustainably and consciously by highlighting the simple steps we can all take to help make a better future for our planet," he said in a statement.

SOURCE: www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com

United Arab Emirates: environmental

protection claims to drive beauty sales By Lucy Whitehouse

Environmental protection claims present a key opportunity for sun care brands as well as for beauty players in United Arab Emirates (UAE), says leading data and

analytics company GlobalData. “With the lines blurring between skincare and make-up it is more important for brands

than ever to find unique points of differentiation which can effectively resonate with ever demanding consumers," explains the market research firm.

It notes that this was reflected in its Q3 2018 consumer survey in the country, which

reveals that the hot UAE climate creates unique opportunities for the two of the most dynamic spaces (skincare and make-up) across the beauty/grooming sector to integrate sun care features into their products.

According to the survey, more than one-third of the UAE women apply suncare products 'before going to work', compared to just 14% in the US, suggesting that awareness of the

impact of sun damage is high in the market. "As a result, daily use products such as moisturizers, which integrate sun protection

benefits, are more likely to be well received by consumers," says the firm. Analyst insight: incorporate more claims moving forward Jamie Mills, Consumer Analyst at GlobalData, explains the trends behind the data.

"Applications are not limited to daily use products but could be extended to products typically used prior to social occasions given that 21% of UAE women claim to use suncare products prior to going out to socializing,'" she says.

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“Multifunctional make-up products such as foundations, primers and even eyeshadows, which feature sun protection benefits, could appeal to this consumer category as they seek complete protection from the sun."

Her predictions for the future point to products beginning to incorporate more 'protection' claims for the skin.

"Looking ahead, wider environmental protection claims are likely to gain traction given high receptivity to sun protection products," she says.

"This creates opportunities for brands to incorporate more sophisticated claims such as pollution and infra-red protection into their product offering to tap into the environment-conscious nature of consumers in this market." SOURCE: https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Article/2018/08/24/United-Arab-Emirates-environmental-protection-claims-to-drive-beauty-sales