SHIANT ISLANDS1

GARBH EILEAN, TOLL A’ ROIMH (NG 421 986) Non-tidal N facingTwo routes have been recorded, there is scope for several more. Belays are a problem as there is little exposed rock and the soil is thin. West of the arch are two wide chimneys at sea-level.

The Blue Boys 40m VS 4c **C.Moody, R.Watson, 24 Aug 2000Abseil from blocks to sea-level at the west chimney. Climb the corner-crack right (west) of the chimney.

Tam a Shianta 35m VS 4c *C.Moody, R.Watson 24 Aug 2000Climb the crack just east of the same chimney. Abseil from a sling around a bollard and a Friend 0.5 farther back (beside the lochan) to a ledge above the sea.

The apparent continuation of the crag containing the Blue Boys on Eilean Mhuire was investigated but the rock was unstable.

EILEAN AN TAIGHE Several short, easy routes have been climbed above the bothy. Note there was a serious accident at the crag, but the rock is good.

GALTA MOR (NG 391 983) N facingOn the highest cliff, with an arch shaped roof in the lower half.

Approach: By an awkward landing at the route base by boat, or abseil in after a different landing.

The Puffin Diaries 50m E7 6c *T.Emmett, D.MacLeod, 30 May 2010Just left of the arch shaped roof feature dominating the cliff is a tapering groove that runs out on the left arete of the arch. Abseil or access the base of the groove by boat.1. 6c Climb the groove to good nuts as it runs out on the left arete of the arch. Swing around the arete wildly using a hanging block to crucial gear in a break. Make bouldery moves to a good crack leading through the left side of the arch. Continue directly in a faint groove on tiny holds to gain a standing position on the headwall (crux). Move up to stand on a block and belay.2. 6b Climb the well protected but sustained and technical finger crack in the slab to easier angled rock below the final roof. Traverse boldy rightwards on easier ground but increasingly suspect rock to the left-hand of two final grooves right of the roof. Climb the groove taking care with the rock and belay well back.

SHIANT ISLANDSThe Shiant Islands are an isolated group of islands between Gairloch, Skye and Harris, with some very impressive dolerite crags. On Garbh Eilean at (NG 410 987) the cliff plunges 110m vertically into the sea, and it looks a lot bigger than that. There are plenty of cliffs but climbable rock appears to be fairly limited, and climbing in the nesting season is impossible. Information on the islands can be found at www.shiantisles.net

Access: Like most uninhabited islands, getting there is a problem without the use of a private boat. There are a few possibilities which can be found on the internet.

Accommodation: There is a bothy on Eilean an Taighe (NG 418 975); the bothy is small and might be in use, so it is best to get in touch with the owners (and take a tent), contact details on the web site above. There is a well two minutes’ walk to the south, covered by a wooden board, treat gently to avoid stirring up sediment.

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L Torridon

LochNevis

LochHourn

LochDuich

Loch Maree

Loch Morar

LochEwe

Loch Shiel

Sound of Monach

Sound of Canna

Sound of S

leat

Soun

d of

Raa

say

Sound ofArisaig

Sound of R

ùm

Inne

r Sou

nd

LochSnizort

Butt of Lewis

Eye Peninsula

The Cuillin

Soay

Raasay

Scalpay

Canna

Mingulay

Sandray

Eriskay

Vatersay

Berneray

Barra

SOUTH UIST

Benbecula

Heisker orMonach Islands

St Kilda

NORTH UIST

Scarp

Scalpay

ShiantIslands

Flannan Isles

Rona

Muck

Eigg

Coll

I N N E RH E B R I D E S

Rùm

ISLE OFSKYE

HARRIS

ISLE OF LEWIS

OUTERHEBRIDES

Pabbay

Berneray

Lingeigh

Castlebay

Stornoway

Càrlabhagh

Calanais

Shieldaig

LochboisdaleDalabrog

Dunvegan

Port of Ness

Gairloch

Poolewe

LochcarronPortree

Broadford

Drynoch

Ardvasar

Kinloch

Acharacle

Lochmaddy

Carinish

Iochdar

Malacleit

Tarbert

Leverburgh

Mallaig

Uig

Kyle of Lochalsh

Oban

Ullapool

km

200

Dusk falls on Eilean an Taighe(photo Morris MacLeod)

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