2014-02 cleansing concept book master new - · pdf fileleft: cleansing cream with ds-1220....

CLEANSINGHANDBOOK

2014 edition

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NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD.1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN Email: [email protected] www.nikkol.co.jp

Cleansing Types

OIL TYPE WATERY TYPE

MILK / BALM TYPEFOAM TYPE

Speedy & efficient cleansing is the main

benefit of rinse-off foam cleansers. Newer formulations use

surfactants that are less stripping, allow mildly-

acidic formulations with a rich foam & leave a

refreshing after-rinse feel.

Cleansing waters are surfactants dissolved in a water base and are used together with a cotton pad

to remove surface dirt.Suitable for skin who are

easily irritated with frequent washing.

“Like dissolves like” concept allows oil

cleansers to remove make-up or water-

resistant sunscreen most effectively.

Emulsifiers dissolved in oil allow easy rinsing with water. Ideal for heavy

make-up users.

The higher content of oils in milky formulations are suited for extremely dry skin. To be massaged gently with fingers, it

dissolves make-up and dirt and can be removed by

water or by tissue.

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Concept 1

Formulating cleansing oils is achieving agood balance of cleansing oils held bylipophilic surfactants. Recent innovations inthis category (also called “bicontinuous”formulations) allow the addition of water &humectants to make it easily rinsable andleaves a non-sticky, softened skin feel.

Oil Cleansing

Request your samples on this site.Type the words “chemical-navi", click on english site!

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Our special esters for formulating mild and effective cleansing oils with nice feel.


Clear and odorless emollient and texture enhancing triglyceride ester oil. Excellent cleansing and pigment dispersing effect.Trifat S-308

Colorless ester with remarkably light feel. Superior stability, low irritation and emollient effect.

CIO

Esters for Cleansing Oils

This ester shows superior make up removing properties. It easily dissolves and disperses poorly soluble substances. DS-1220 provides elegant non-greasy feel after cleansing. Clear & odorless.

DS-1220

Cleansing effect on lipstick. Left: cleansing cream with DS-1220. Right: control.

GS-MHL Ultra-light plant-derived cleansing ester manufactured with minimum waste (e-factor of 0.02)*. Ideal for formulators searching for D5 replacement for cleansing

INCI: Dibutyloctyl Sebacate

INCI: Triethylhexanoin

Trade Name Absorbency index

DS-1220 0.1397

NIKKOL Trifat S-308 0.1264

NIKKOL CIO 0.1178

Mineral oil 0.1080

Test method: a commercially-available lipstick was applied evenly to a cotton pad (1.5 x 3cm) and allowed to sit for 20 minutes. The pad was placed in a bottle containing the sample cleansing oil. Using a shaker, the bottle was shaken for 20 minutes at 30C.

A higher absorbency value means there is more of the make-up eluting into the solution which means a higher cleansing effect. (Evaluated at a wavelength of 580nm)

INCI: Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

INCI: Methyheptyl Laurate

The Green leaf signifies material is plant derived or manufactured using sustainable means.

Before Cleansing

Cleansing with GS-MHL

1 2 3 Legend:1= Powder foundation2= Cream foundation3= Water-proof mascara

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Green Formulations with Sugar Squalane


Emulsifiers for Cleansing Oils

GO-430NVINCI NAME Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate

APPEARANCE Light yellow liquid

HLB 11.5

CAS NO. 63089-86-1

SPECIAL FEATURES/MAIN USES

Hydrophilic emulsifier for a wide range of substances; suitable for non-polar base oils such as mineral oil, plant derived

INCI/Trade Name wt％

A

Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate NIKKOL GO-430NV 11.0

Sorbitan Sesquioleate NIKKOL SO-15V 4.0

Triethylhexanoin NIKKOL Trifat S-308 20.0

Dibutyloctyl Sebacate DS-1220 20.0

Mineral oil - 45.0

Procedure: Mix well at room temperature.

Self-emulsifying surfactant to allow base oils to interact withwater for easy rinsability.

This is a traditional anhydrous (water-free) cleansing oil formulation with GO-430NV as the main emulsifier. The base oil (mineral oil) can be replaced with light-feel sustainable Sugar Squalane (see below) or any vegetable oil for a more natural formulation.

‐2‐1012

Skin absorption

Oily after feelTackiness

Moist feelShark‐derived Squalane

Olive‐derived Squalane

NIKKOL Sugar Squalane

Spreadabilty Sensory evaluation of Different Types of Squalane

Squalane is a choice emollient for its high skin absorption & softening effect on skin. Sugar Squalane is made from sugarcane grown through traceable and sustainable techniques in Brazil. Compared to olive squalane, this does not compete with food consumption thus making supply & pricing stable.

The Green leaf signifies material is plant derived or manufactured using sustainable means. 5

Formulation 1: Self- emulsifying Cleansing Oil

GO-430 NV

Emulsifiers for Cleansing Oils


Plant-derived self-emulsifying non-ionic surfactant with superior cleansing properties.

TGI-20

Tested samples1. Water (control)2. Commercial Cleansing Oil (Japan) 3. Cleansing Oil with TGI-20

Method: Lipstick (commercial water-proof lipstick) and mascara (commercial, water-proof) were applied to test sites on the inner forearm. Each test site is massaged 10 times and then rinsed. Cleansing effect is measured by visual observation.

Cleansing Effect on Water-proof Mascara

1. Water (control)2. Commercial Cleansing Oil (Japan) 3. Cleansing Oil with TGI-20

1 2 3

Cleansing Effect on Water-proof Lipstick

INCI Name：PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate.

1 2 3

Cleansing Power Cleansing Power

The Green leaf signifies material is plant derived or manufactured using sustainable means.6

Evaluation of Cleansing Oils’ Efficacy of Water-Proof Makeup Removal

Trade Name (INCI) wt%

NIKKOL TGI-20 (PEG-20 Glyceryl Trisostearate) 15.0

NIKKOL IOP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate) 10.0

NIKKOL CIO (Cetyl Ethylhexanoate) 10.0

Mineral oil 64.6

Phenoxyethanol 0.4

Procedure: mix till uniform with paddle mixer

Innovative Cleansing Oil


What are Bicontinuous Cleansing Formulations?

Before Removing

of WaterproofMascara

ConventionalCleansing Oil

BicontinuousCleansing Oil

Japan is known for its rich tradition ofbathing. This tradition extends tonightly bathing rituals in thehousehold. Skincare manufacturerssuch as Kao or Shiseido employ theirknowledge on colloid science toprovide cleansing oils that can beused in the bath allows women tosave time. Moreover, Japanesecleansing oils have evolved to be lessfeeling like oil but more like water.

Dry Hands

Wet Hands

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Conventional Type


I. The challenges of a conventional formulation

Hydrophilic SAA Hydrophobic SAA

Cleansing Oil

Oil

O/W emulsion

Water

Conventional Type

Small / Largeamount of water

Conventional Type: These type of cleansers emulsify immediately with the presence ofwater even at small amounts. This leads to reduced cleansing power & low rinsabilityof the formulation.

Makeup/ dirt

removal

1 2Loss of Cleansing Power

Low RinsabilityOil + Surfactant

Skin Surface Skin Surface

1. With wet hands, oil droplets will be created (emulsification) but water obstructs the suspended droplets from adhering to makeup

2. Water will also increase the particle size of these oil droplets leaving a sticky feeling on skin.

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Bicontinuous Type


II. The merits of a bicontinuous formulation

Hydrophilic SAA Hydrophobic SAA

Cleansing Oil

Oil

O/W emulsion

Water

Bicontinuous formulation is when an amphiphilic blend of surfactants allows tobalance equal volumes of oil & water and exist freely in the continuous phase.

Oil

Water

Bicontinuous Phase

Makeup/ dirt

dissolution

Bicontinuous BlendSlower emulsification

RinsableMicroemulsion

1. The bicontinuous channels of water and oil allow interaction without water without immediate emulsification.

2. With addition of more water, size of oil droplets are reduced and stabilized into “micelles” preventing re-adhesion and allows easy rinsing.

1 2

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Cleansing Oil Premixes

Premixes that form a bi-continuous phase


Cleomix DX

Market product B

Market product A

Cleomix Oil ABefore

Mascara

Foundation

Lipstick

Presence of bicontinuous channel:

The behavior in contact with water of cleansing oil made with Cleomix DX and regular (not “wet hand” type) cleansing oil was compared. One drop of each oils was dropped in beakers filled with water.Regular oil emulsifies. Cleomix DX oil forms visible bi-continuous

phase (oil and water repel each other).

Formula: Cleomix Oil A

INCI Name：PEG-10 Laurate, Sorbitan Oleate, Decyl Glucoside, Alcohol, Water

This is a blend of plant-derived, low irritation ingredients suited for formulations aiming for sensitive skin. This blend creates a bicontinuous structures with a wide variety of oils of different polarities. This can be thicken into milks or balms that can be washed easily into a micro-emulsion

Cleansing Effect of Cleomix DX vs. Commercial Cleansing Oils

Trade Name Wt%

NIKKOL CLEOMIX DX 25.0

NIKKOL CIO (Cetyl Ethylhexanoate) 5.0

NIKKOL IOP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate) 35.0

NIKKOL Natural Oils 1 3.0

Cyclomethicone 15.0

NIKKOL Sugar Squalane To 100.0

Fragrance q.s.

Preservative q.s.

Water 2.5

This Sugar Squalane-rich bicontinuous cleansing oil cleanses skin effectively while also leaving it softened & moisturised.

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・Mix A well. Add B while stirring A. ・Stop stirring when mixture becomes transparent.

Cleansing Oil Premixes

Premixes that form a bicontinuous phase


Nikkomix CW INCI Name：PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, SorbitanOleate, Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate

This is a blend of plant-derived non-ionic surfactants that create a bicontinuouschannel allowing make-up removal in the shower or in the bath. This is aneconomical alternative for those who require speedy formulation development time.

Removal Effect on Waterproof Mascara

Commercialbicontinuous formula

BeforeCleansing

Dry Hands

Wet Hands

Commercialoil-based formula Nikkomix CW

Powerful make-up removal effect in

any condition!

Simple Modification of Formulation using Nikkomix CW

Nikkomix CW is a ready-to-use blend where you just add selected polyols & cleansing esters then dilute with water! Elaborate modification is not necessary.

This ratio of N-CW is necessary for transparency

PG or DPG can be substituted using the same ratio. Or a 50:50 mix of BG or propanediol

Straight chain ester oils can be substituted (e.g. ethylhexyl palmitate or decyl oleate). 10%

Mineral Oil* or Hydrogenated Polydecene or 50:50 mix of Smart5** & Dodecane

*These non polar oils may exhibit cloudiness at 5C but reverts back to a clear solution with some agitation

Phenoxyethanol is choice material. Natural options such as capryl glycol, potassium sorb ate can be used. Preservative-free can be

investigated due to high level of polyol

**Smart 5 =Isododecane, Hydrogenated Tetradecenyl/Methylpentadecene (IMCD)

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Trade Name/ INCI Wt%

Nikkomix CW 33.00

Butylene Glycol 20.00

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate 20.00

Water to 100.00

Preservative q.s.


PEG-Free CleansingBicontinuous Cleansing Formulation for Sensitive Skin

INCI Name Trade Name wt%ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE IOP to 100.00CYCLOMETHICONE 1 10.00POLYGLYCERYL-6 MYRISTATE Hexaglyn 1-M 12.00POLYGLYCERYL-10 PENTAISOSTEARATE Decaglyn 5-ISV 4.00POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE Decaglyn 1-L 2.00POLYGLYCERYL-6 OLEATE Hexaglyn 1-OV 2.00LAURIC ACID 0.50GLYCERYL BEHENATE/EICOSADIOATE 2 2.00WATER 4.00ALCOHOL 1.00FRAGRANCE q.s.

The demand for plant-derived, PEG-free emulsifiers have greatlyincreased and polyglycerol esters are excellent choices for superiorcleansing & unique properties such as having a bicontinuous channel.

Used with wet hands

PEG-Free Bicontinuous Cleansing Gel

PEG-Free PEG Type

1= Cyclomethicone can be substituted with IOP for a silicone-free variation2= Glyceryl Behenate/ Eicosadioate is a gellant to create viscous formulations. Optional use.

Before

Lipstick

Foundation

Mascara(waterproof)

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Concept 2

Watery Cleansing

This concept is also called micellar waterwhere micelles (oil droplets) are suspendedin an aqueous solution. Makeup or surfacedirt when in contact with these ‘invisible’ oildroplets are dissolved with a swipe of acotton pad. These products are aimed forconsumers who require one-step cleansing(cleanse & tone) or for those with a light,daily make-up style.


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Cleansing Water

One-step makeup removal with functional care


INCI: PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate

SG-CG700

SG-CG700 is a non-ionic hydrophilic surfactant that has goodsolubilizing properties for light makeup removal. Clearysoluble in aqueous surfactant solutions and can solubilize oilymaterials (e.g. essential oils), transparent cleansingformulations can be created.

Lipstick Foundation

Control

Cleansing WaterWith SG-CG700 (20%)

Commercial Cleansing Water(approx. 20% surfactant conc.)

Cleansing GelWith SG-CG700 (10%)

Commercial Cleansing Gel

SG-CG700 is excellent for removal of BB creams or foundations or regular lipstick.

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Cleansing Water


Cleansing Water Translucent Cleansing Gel

Trade Name (%wt)

1 NIKKOL SG-CG700 20.00

2 NIKKOL Nikkoguard 88 1.003 Dipropylene Glycol 6.004 NIKKOL Lecinol WS-50 0.50

5 D-delta-tocopherol 0.05

6 Butyelene Glycol 4.007 Citric Acid 0.01

8 Sodium Citrate 0.06

9 EDTA-2Na 0.05

10 Noni Fruit Juice(Maruzen Pharmaceuticals)

1.00

11 Hydroxyproline 0.1012 Water 67.23

Total 100.00

Trade Name (%wt)

1 NIKKOL SG-CG700 10.00

2 Dimethicone 10cs 5.00

3 Butylene Glycol 5.00

4 Glycerin 20.00

5 Acrylates/C10-30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer(2% solution)

15.00

6 Water 39.6

7 Phenoxyethanol 0.40

8 TEA 0.30

9 Water 4.70

Total 100.00

・ Mix ingredients 1-3 until even.・Combine 4-6 separately and heat to 45C to solubilize. ・Cool down and add to 1-3.・Add 7-12 one by one and mix until transparent.

・ Mix 3,4,5,7 well then add 6.・Add 3-7 to 1-2 and mix again until uniform. ・Neutralize the mixture with 8-9.

Concentration 5%

25℃ 40℃

Ethylhexyl Palmitate △ △

Isopropyl Palmitate × ×

Capryl/Capyrlic Triglyceride × ×

Triethylhexanonin × △

Mineral Oil #70 ○

Jojoba Oil ○ ○

Squalane × ×

1,2 Propylene Glycol △ ○

Ethanol △ △

SG-CG700 Compatibility

○…Clear Solution△…Can be dispersed well

×…Insoluble

Trendy market concepts use soothing aloe water or relaxing rosewater. Botanical extracts such as fermented Noni Fruit Juice (Maruzen) or water-soluble lecithin-Lecinol WS-50 strengthen the stratum corneum against daily stress & dryness.

One-step makeup removal with functional care

Treatment + Cleansing Concept

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•When light pressure is applied on quick break emulsions the inneraqueous phase & oils are released to create a visible transformationfrom gel-to-water. This concept is ideal for cleansing concepts thathighlight refreshing or moisturising claims.

•Nikkomulese SE allows creation of quick-break gels with low-energypaddle mixing.

Gel to Water Concept


Cleanse & tone in one-step with gel-to-water concept

Immediately after application Rubbed slightly 2 times Rubbed 4 times

Quick-break Effect for Cleansing

INCI Name: Sorbeth-30 Tetraisostearate, Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate, PPG-8-Ceteth 20, Acrylates/ Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Water

Nikkomulese SE

Quick-break

Low-energy

INCI Name Trade Name Role wt%Phase A

“See above” NIKKOL Nikkomulese SE

quick-break emulsifier 4.50

Xanthan Gum builder 0.10Butylene Glycol humectant 5.00

Phase BWater To 100Potassium Hydroxide 85% purity neutralizer 0.05Preservatives q.s.Water 9.95

Phase CMineral Oil base oil 40.00Cetyl Ethylhexanoate NIKKOL CIO cleansing oil 10.00Cyclopentasiloxane KF-995 cleansing oil 10.00Tocopherol Acetate 0.10

Quick-break Cleansing Gel

・Mix evenly all ingredients of each phase・You can heat phase A & B to 40C. Add Phase C (oils) into B.・Neutralize A by gradually adding B while gently mixing until a stable gel is formed.

A B

A= Commercial Water-release CreamB= Cleansing Gel (NSE)

Mascara Removal

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Concept 3

Foam Cleansing

Cleansing foams promise rapid removal of oil &dirt, leaving skin refreshed with the use of waterbut traditionally not suited for sensitive or dryskin. Recent innovations however offer less-stripping formulas or dense & rich foam that cancombine cleansing & massage in one-step.


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Cleansing FoamUltra-Mild Surfactant for Cleansing Foams


CMT-30

This extremely mild surfactant helps to cleanse skin without removing the skinlipids, which are an essential part of skin barrier. It has good foaming abilityand is stable in low pH conditions.

Product A Product B CMT-30

Assay (%) 28.7 28.5 30.1

Sodium Chloride (%) 6.3 6.2 0.6

Free Fatty Acids (%) 4.6 --- 0

Comparison of composition of Nikkol CMT-30 and commercially available aqueous solutions of Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Taurate.

Other grades tends to have up to 10 times more salt (NaCl) than CMT-30. In the finished formula it would mean that CMT-30 will provide a) richer & denser foam, b) will not thicken up and c) will be more transparent.

CMT-30 makes it possible to make low viscosity (fluid) and clear (transparent) shampoo or cleansing formulations, while competing products tend to make formula viscous and opaque. Due to well-balanced alkyl distribution of CMT-30 it will foam better at wider range of temperatures.

INCI: Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Water

CMT-30 strips less lipids compared to other surfactants

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Cleansing FoamUltra-Mild Surfactant for Cleansing Foams


Phosten HLP-1This mild surfactant is part of the class of mono alkyl phosphates that have a lowstinging effect, less stripping and imparts a refreshed yet moistened skin feel afterrinsing. Commonly used for mildly-acidic formulations that matches natural skin pH.

INCI: Laureth-1 Phosphate

Stratum Corneum

Skin Surface Lipid

Water Permeation

Before Washing Washing After Washing

Removal of Skin Surface Lipids

Removal of Water Soluble Materials

SurfactantAdsorption

Water Evaporation Skin

Tightness

Theory for Skin Tightness after Washing

After the lipids are removed during the washing process and then thoroughly rinsed with water, the small amount of surfactant that remains on the skin (due to the loss of lipids) induces tension in the stratum corneum layer, resulting in the sensation of tightness.

G. Imokawa et. al., Surfactants in Cosmetics 2nd edition. 439-441.(1997).

Surfactant Ratio of Lipids Loss 1

Adsorptive Capability 2

Skin Tightness 3

Water 1.06 0 n/a

Mono-alkyl Phosphate (Phostens)

1.17 0 -0.3

Soap 1.52 12.3 -0.1

Triethanolaminen-acyl L-glutamate

1.35 22.1 -0.1

Polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfate

1.68 62.3 +0.2

Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate

1.48 82.5 +0.4

MAP exhibited the lowest ratio of lipid loss, less

adsorbed into the skin (lower irritation) & does not cause skin tightness.

Phostens give a very distinctive moist feel after washing without the sting

or tightness

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• Very fine foam captures make-up residues deep in pores and removes themefficiently.

• Oil helps moisturise skin but the formulation leaves a non-oily, refreshed skin feeling

The power of oil cleansing combined with the refreshing experience of a foaming wash

INCI Name Trade Name Wt%

PEG-20 GLYCERYL TRIISOSTEARATE TGI-20 6.00

Hydrogenated Didecene Syncelane 2 5.00 Glyceryl Caprylate 2.50 SODIUM METHYL COCOYL TAURATE CMT-30 5.00

LAURETH-1 PHOSPHATE Phosten HLP-1 7.50 Dipropylene Glycol 5Alginine 3.6Citric acid 0.01Sodium Citrate 0.02Water 30Water 35.37

TOTAL 100

Cleansing Power of Foam

surfactant

Oily material

H2O

The external surface of a foam islipophilic (oil-loving) making itcompatible in removing oily materialssuch as sebum or makeup

Possible Oil Substitutesa) mineral oilb) hydrogenated polyisobutanec) mineral oil + cyclopentasiloxane (1:1)d) hydrogenated polyisobutane + cyclopentasiloxane (1:1)

Not Compatiblea) cyclopentasiloxaneb) squalane

Oil Cleansing Foam

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FOAM OIL CLEANSER (pump type)

・Heat A and B at 80 to 85 degrees C.

・Add B to A while mixing A, and cool it down to the room temperature.

・Add C at room temperature.


New rituals: Incorporating facial massage in your morning face wash

Massaging Foam

Pump out foam

Apply on face

Massage for 1 min

Pat on skin (pack)

Rinse-off

Experiencing dull skin during your sick days or winter season? A light massage with a rich LPG-powered foam activates skin by improving blood circulation & calms your moods for a positive start.

Add 1% Shiso Extract NA (Japanese mint) for microcirculation & proven skin calming effect and 1% Citrus Extract Complex,

a blend of 3 citrus extracts (Japanese yuzu, mandarin & bitter orange) for skin turnover to awaken & renew dull-looking skin


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INCI Name Trade Name Wt%

Laureth 1- Phosphate Phosten HLP-1 7.50

Potassium Hydroxide (85%) 1.50Dipropylene Glycol 4.00

Preservatives q.s.

Water 24.10Water, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate CMT-30 5.00PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate TCI-20 4.00Pentylene Glycol 2.00Glycerin 1.00Water, Sodium Pentetate Clewat DP80 0.10Citric Acid 0.25Water To 95.0

Total 95.00

Massaging Foam (LPG type)

・Heat A to 80 degrees. Stir to cool down at 50C then add B.

・Add C at 45C then gently mix till uniform. Cool down to 35C.

・Add 5% wt. of LPG in the final formulation


NikkofoamEnhancing Foam QualityEnhance the foam richness, enhanced moist after-feel and improve overall gloss & formulation stability!

Nikkofoam INCI: Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Stearic acid, Glycol Distearate, Tocopherol

Trade Name INCI Name (wt%)

NIKKOL NIKKOFOAM S 2.00

Lauric acid 3.00

Myristic acid 12.00

Palmitic acid 5.00

Stearic acid 10.00

Glycerin 23.00

NIKKOL MGS-F50SEV Glyceric stearate SE

NIKKOL CMT-30 Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate 10.00

NIKKOL SMT Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate 1.00

1,3-BG 1.00

EDTA -4Na 0.05

Phenoxyethanol 0.50

KOH(85%) 6.45

Water To 100.00

Moist Foaming Wash (Moist)

40℃ 45℃ 50℃

Separation in all 3

Stability Improvement Property

Japanese market products at varying high temperatures

Amount of NIKKOFOAM S (50℃)0 % 2.0 % 4.0%

Cream washes are actually fluid crystalline structures that influence the softness, wetting, and foaming properties. But these crystalline structures usually breakdown at high temperature (storage in tropical countries) causing creaming or separation at the bottom.

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Addition of Nikkofoam (1-5%) improves high temperature stability by strengthening this crystalline structure without disrupting softness & foaming properties. Moreover, Nikkofoam adds a nice gloss & lessens the “tight” feeling of a typical alkali cream wash

Concept 4

Milky Cleansing


While other cleansing types focuses onstripping less of lipids, cream or milk typeof cleansing emphasizes on replenishinglipids due to a higher oil content andsoftening effect on skin. This type can beused either with a cotton pad or rinsed withwarm water. Ideal for dry season or forpeople with very dry skin.

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Softens your skin while removing make-up effectively

Rinsable Cleansing Milk

This formulation defies traditional concept of cleansing milk: high makeup removing power, easy to rinse.This formulation is a blend of 4 types of surfactants to create a cleansing milk you can use with wet hands and can be rinsed easily (avoiding too much rubbing/ clogging). The high level of moisturisers (oil + polyol content around 30%) leaves a moisturising veil on skin after rinsing.

• Add in the water phase 1% solution of Hyalo-oligo (Kewpie), a low-molecular weight hyaluronic acid that hydrates skin as long as 3 days with a single application. Tested to stay long within the stratum corneum making it effective even after washing (compared to conventional HA).

• Add in the oil phase 2% of Bois II (Barnet), a blend of plant extracts that replenishes skin lipids and strengthens skin barrier with every cleansing .

・Heat A & B to 80C until dissolved.・Add B gradually into A while maintaining the temperature, gently stir until a stable

emulsion is formed.・Add C slowly and cool down until 35C


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INCI Name Trade Name Role Wt%PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate SG-CG 700 Makeup Remover 10.0%

Methylhepty Laurate Nikkol GS-MHL Light-feel Emollient/Remover

5.0

Cyclopentasiloxane Volatile silicone 5.0

Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone

Volatile silicone 5.0

Mineral Oil Emollient 3.0

Dextrin Palmitate Nikkol Dextrin Palmitate Oil Gellant 0.80

Cetearyl Alcohol Emollient 0.50

Sorbitan Isostearate Nikkol SL-10RV Makeup Remover 1.0

Sorbeth 30-Tetraoleate Nikkol GO-43NV Makeup Remover 1.0

Polysorbate 60 Nikkol TS-10V Makeup Remover 1.0

Glycerin Humectant 10.0

Butylene Glycol Humectant 3.0

Carbomer Rheology Modifier 0.20

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Rheology Modifier 0.10

EDTA-2Na Chelating Agent 0.10

Preservative 0.05

Water Diluent To 100.0

Potassium Hydroxide Neutralizer 0.07

Water Diluent 4.96


Cleansing that literally melts in your skin!

Melting Cleansing Balm

This formulation gives a unique cleansing experience by starting as a waxy balm but dissolves into a silky oil when applied unto skin. Dissolves surface make-up effortlessly while leaving skin soft & supple.

Technology of this concept

Polar oils are trapped in this

crystalline structure

The combination of a non-polarwax (polyethylene) with polar oilscreates house-of-card structurewhere oils are released once shearis applied.

To use: Pick appropriate amount and gently massage unto skin until make-up is dissolved. Rinse with warm water or wipe with warm muslin cloth for a thorough spa-like cleanse.

• Add 1-2% Meadowfoam Seed Oil, a waxy oil suited for balm formulations. Rich in long-chain fatty acids- this oil is perfect for anti-aging cleansing concepts.

• 1-2% Macadamia Nut Oil to replenish aged skin with palmitoleic acid, a fatty acid we lose eventually as we age.


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Trade Name INCI Wt%

NIKKOL Trifat S-308 Triethylhexanoin to 100

Performalene PL Polyethylene 5.0

NIKKOLGO-430NV

Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate 4.0

NIKKOL SO-10V Sorbitan Oleate 1.0

Tocopherol 0.2

Propylparaben q.s.

Fregrance q.s

Heat to 90 degrees C and mix well

CLEANSING CREAMLot.20-NC07

INCI Name Trade Name wt%

A Triethylhexanoin NIKKOL Trifat S-308 30.00 OCTYLDODECYL MYRISTATE NIKKOL ODM-100 25.00 BEHENYL ALCOHOL NIKKOL BEHENYL ALCOHOL 80 2.00 GLYCERYL STEARATE NIKKOL MGS-BV2 1.00 DIMETHICONE KF 96A-350cs (SHINETSU) 0.50

B BUTYLENE GLYCOL 10.00 CARBOMER 0.20 SODIUM METHYL STEAROYL TAURATE NIKKOL SMT 0.30

POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE NIKKOL Decaglyn 1-L 0.50

SUCROSE STEARATE 0.50 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.40 WATER 22.53

C POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE 0.07 WATER 3.00

D

HYDROLYZED HYALURONIC ACID HYALO-OLIGO 1.00

WATER 3.00 total 100.00


Rich cleansing cream that releases oils when massaged on skin

PEG-Free Cleansing Cream

3 KEY OILY MATERIALS: Superior cleansing effect is brought by Trifat S308 while ODM-100 bringsluxurious spread & body. Behenyl Alcohol 80 gives a velvety elegance to the totalformulation.

・Heat A and B to 80-85 degrees C and mix well

・Add A into B gradually and homogenize at 5000 rpm for 3 minutes (in case of 200 g scale)

・After homogenization add C and stir while cooling

・At 45 degrees C add D and keep stirring till 35 degrees C

pH (10%): 6.72

TREATMENT ITEM: Hyalo-oligo is proven to be retained on skin even after washing. Boostswater levels in upper layers of the skin & imparts a moist & firming feel.

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WARMING SCRUB GELLot.30-KAC-09

INCI Name Trade Name wt% A

GLYCERIN (plant-derived) 84.70CARBOMER 0.30BUTYLENE GLYCOL HAISUGARCANE BG 10.00PERSERVATIVE p.s.

B TRIETHANOLAMINE 0.30

C

POLYGLYCERYL-10-LAURATE NIKKOL DECAGLYN 1-L 3.00

SQUALANE NIKKOL SUGAR SQUALANE 1.00EUCALYPTUS OIL 0.10

D

MANNAN PROPOL ISLB-Large 1.00

Total 100.00

・Heat A and C (except Carbomer) to 80degrees C and mix well

・Add Carbopol 980 while stirring with dispersion mixer, and cool it down.

・Add B-D at room temperature and mix well.

pH (10%): 7.15


• Glycerin-rich formula reacts with moisture to warm up the skin & soften it for serious cleansing. • Natural solubilizer, Decaglyn 1-L, helps dissolve excess sebum like a powerful oil cleanser• Mannan beads provide its unique “soft scrubbing” to clear away dead skin cells without

irritating or hurting skin. Sugarcane-derived Squalane leaves your skin soft and moisturised after rinsing.

POINT CLEANSING

Commercial Benchmark

Warming Scrub Gel

Cleansing effect determined using artificial sebum (0.02 grams). Products (0.2g) were rubbed 20 times without

rinsing.

Cleansing effect was superior

compared to benchmark*

*Benchmark used PEG-type solubilizer

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99% Natural Point Cleanser with triple cleansing action

NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD.1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPANTEL: 81-3-3661-1677 FAX: 81-3-3664-8620E-mail: [email protected] www.nikkol.co.jp

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2014-02 cleansing concept book master new - · pdf fileleft: cleansing cream with ds-1220....

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