20 things you need to know about gardening service

8/7/2019 20 Things you Need to know about Gardening Service

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COPYRIGHT NOTICE

20 Things you Need to know about Gardening Service

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BeAwareEarly.com 20 Things you Need to know about Gardening Service

Table of Contents

Introduction -------------------------------------------------------------------- 6

Organic Gardening ------------------------------------------------------------ 8

Composting --------------------------------------------------------------------- 9

Mulching ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 11

Basic Tools ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 14

I. The Accidents of Gardening

Tool and Convenience ------------------------------------------------------ 18

Diseases of Plant ------------------------------------------------------------- 19

Harmful Insects and Animals ---------------------------------------------- 23

Landscape the slope --------------------------------------------------------- 26


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II. Landscaping

Develop a base plan --------------------------------------------------------- 29

Conduct a site inventory and analysis ---------------------------------- 32

Assess your family's needs ------------------------------------------------ 34

Locate the use areas -------------------------------------------------------- 36

Develop the use areas ------------------------------------------------------ 37

Develop the planting plan ------------------------------------------------- 38

III Garden Layout

How to Layout a Garden --------------------------------------------------- 39

What to Avoid ---------------------------------------------------------------- 42

What to Attain ---------------------------------------------------------------- 44


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General Objects -------------------------------------------------------------- 46

Particular Objects ------------------------------------------------------------ 47

Practical Directions ---------------------------------------------------------- 49

Closure ------------------------------------------------------------------------- 51


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Introduction

Gardening may be treated either as an art or a Science. The Art of

Gardening consists in the employment of all those means necessary to

rear, develop, nurture, and gather in the various crops, whether of

herbs, fruits, or flowers.

The Science of Gardening is founded on knowledge of the nature,

constitution, habits, and wants of plants, and on the way in which the

agents and processes of nature affect them. It should, therefore, teach

the general application of the facts thus known to all the operations of

culture.

An individual who has no acquaintance with the Science of Gardening,

conducts its numerous processes very much in the dark, and is

successful or otherwise, chiefly as accident may determine. He sows,


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plants, and works, as his forefathers have done before him; and the

simplest derangement of the circumstance, which has previously caused

him success, will disappoint and frustrate all his expectations.

The mere book-gardener, on the other hand, who is conversant only

with theories, finds himself continually still more at a loss, and liable to

perpetual failure; for the commonest results of everyday experience

being unknown and neglected by him, nothing that be attempts canprosper.

Hence, the teachings of Science, and the precepts of experience, are

alike necessary to enable any one to garden satisfactorily, and to correct

his practice according to the varying conditions in which he finds theobjects of his care placed. To supply both three desirable features is the

purpose of the present work; and we shall commence with Science, as

the foundation-stone of the building.


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1.) Organic Gardening

Switching to chemical-free gardening will not only mean changing your

gardening practices, but also your gardening design. Gardening in beds,

as opposed to rows, provides for better weed, disease and pest

management. Beds are also more attractive and easier to maintain. In a

garden bed, everything is planted within arms reach. The leaves of

adjacent plants shade the soil, reducing weed growth. Diversity in agarden bed also has many advantages. A variety of plants in a mixed

bed provide some natural pest protection by making it difficult for pests

to find and eat their target plants, or helping to attract insects that are

beneficial to your garden and prey on pest insects. It also reduces the

chances that pests and disease organisms will build to epidemic levels,

as they wont be able to hop from tasty host to tasty host, as they

would if you had planted in rows. Your soil will also reap the benefits of


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your diverse planting techniques. A good example is planting nitrogen-

gobbling corn with nitrogen-giving beans. Pairing up particular plants or

planting in variety can help the soil maintain its nutrient balance,

ensuring happier plants and a better crop yield. In fact, this technique

even has a name companion planting.

2.) Composting

Gardening raises our consciousness about where our food comes from,

and allows us to observe basic life processes in the food chain. Animals,

plants, insects, worms, bacteria and arthropods each occupy a unique

rung in the ladder of life. Through gardening, and particularly through

composting, we can observe their complex interactions in a microcosm,

and we can learn how our own actions affect the process. P-patch


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garden waste, grass clippings, browned leaves and other organic

materials are returned to the earth to nurture and replenish the soil. As

these ingredients decompose, we see how life perpetuates itself in the

plant realm. The disintegrating plants, leaves and stems supply food for

insects, worms and bacteria. As these creatures burrow into the earth,

they digest and excrete other forms of life-supporting materials, and

circulate these materials from the surface to lower areas. Theseunderground transformations enable strong new plants to emerge,

blossom, produce and, once again, return to the earth.

Compost is the end product of a natural decomposition of organic

materials.


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3.) Mulching

Top dressing, side dressing, and sheet composting are some of the

terms used to describe mulching. Mulching is using finished compost,

grass clippings, leaf mold, leaves, worm casings and other organic

materials etc. on top of the soil alongside growing plants. Mulches

conserves water, inhibits weed growth and feeds the soil food web.

Depending on season, mulching is done in many ways for many reasons.Organic mulches can cool the soil in the summer. A heavy side dressing

of fresh mowed grass can be used to heat the soil in the spring. Mulches

always feed the soil.

Gardeners have been known to avoid mulching in Seattle, because they

feel it harbors slugs. The benefits far outweigh the efforts required to


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control slugs. In addition, a healthy food web produces arthropods that

attack slugs and help keep them under control. Mulching reduces and

can even eliminate the need for weed control. Weeds compete for

nutriments and can take a lot of time to eliminate over and over again

throughout the gardening season. Hoeing weeds will results in crusty

soil and exposes more weed seeds to sunlight and air and hence more

weeds.

You cannot mulch with plastic. It is not mulch. Plastic does not allow

oxygen to reach the soil and will impede if not stop the development of

the soil food web. Plastic does nothing for your soil. Some gardenersquestion if it is even useful to warm the soil. The more complex the

mixture of materials, the more your garden will benefit. Use a good mix

of greens and browns. By using a wide variety of materials in your side


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mulch you will add a wide variety of nutrients to your garden. When you

harvest add the tops of your root crops to your mulch. Garden debris is

a great source for mulching. Fresh grass clippings will give your plants a

nitrogen boost as will coffee grounds from your local espresso cart or

coffee shop. Spent hops and grains, seaweed, apple and grape

pressings, juice bar pulp etc will enrich your garden mulch and your

produce.

It is not recommended that you mulch with manure that has not been

composted. Un-composted manures may carry e-coli and other

diseases. Avoid using sawdust and wood chips, they will take too long tobreak down and will steal nitrogen from your plants if worked into the

soil too soon.


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4.) Basic Tools

Diggers You will need a spading fork for aerating your soil andturning your compost pile. Look for a spading fork with rectangular,

flat blades. A manure fork may also be compost-pile friendly when it

comes to turning.

Weeders Weeding tools include hoes and short-handledcultivating tools. Both are made in a variety of styles, and you will

probably want more than one of each. Standard hoe types include:

Swan-neck hoe The curved neck positions the cutting blade to

skim just below the surface, making it ideal for light work

around garden crops.


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Oscillating hoe Also called a scuffle hoe or hula, it has a

hinged, double-edged blade that barely disturbs the soil surface,

minimizing the number of new weeds brought to the surface.

Collinear hoe Designed by Eliot Coleman, the narrow blade

and angled handle are useful for cutting off small weeds with

little soil disturbance.

Eye hoe Also called a grub hoe, the heavy blade is for hardchopping at tough, overgrown weeds.

Standard short-handled cultivating tools:Hand cultivator A tined tool, useful for disturbing the soil

surface around close planting to uproot young weeds.

Dandelion weeder Made for uprooting weeds with long

taproots.


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Pavement weeder A trowel for removing weeds in cracks of

stone slab or brick walkways.

Pruners Pruning trees and shrubs promotes growth and goodhealth, and pruning out diseased wood helps to control disease

problems. Pruning tools come in varying sizes depending on your

need. Choose a sharp, high quality pruning tool.

Tillers Tillers will also range in size, depending on the job. Thereare large, gaspowered tillers for breaking ground or big jobs, and

small tillers that are lightweight and are useful for cultivating

around perennials. Rent a few tillers to try them out before buying,

as they do differ a great deal and can be expensive.

Sowers Wheeled seeding tools that have changeable interior disksfor different seed sizes and spacings are available and very handy if

you are planting large areas.


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Comfort tools There is a plethora of comfort-oriented gardenaccessories available on the market today. Products range from

gloves, to kneepads, to small, wheeled benches/carts. It is up to you

to decide what will suit your needs, if you need any at all.

I. The Accidents of Gardening

In giving practical effect to the principles of gardening, there will be a

number of things requisite to be obtained, and a multitude of little cross

agencies to avoid or to remove. These are here, for convenience,

termed the accidents of cultivation; some of them being mere

adjuncts to the art, and others of only casual occurrence. We shall only

advert to two or three of the principal of them.


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5.) Tool and Convenience

No one can garden well, or do as much work, or perform it as easily,

with a bad tool. And though the proverb affirms that a bad workman is

sure to find fault with his tools, it is equally true that a good workman

will rarely be found using an inferior implement. It is most essential to

comfort and progress in gardening that tools should be well and neatly

made, and never be too large or clumsy. A handy tool, it has often beensaid, will almost work itself. Country smiths are very seldom capable of

either making or mending a good implement; on which account they

should be procured from towns, or at learnt be of town manufacture.

Attention should be paid, in choosing tools, to the length and curves of

the handles, and of the metal parts, that they may suit the height of the


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workman, and enable him to use them with the learnt possible exertion

and stooping. Forks and deep hoes, or small picks, are most important

tool, in a vegetable garden, for stirring the ground among the crops.

6.) Diseases of Plant

The great cause of disease in plants is bad cultivation; and its remedy, ofcourse, an improved system of treatment. A plant that is growing in a

soil imperfectly drained, or which has not room properly to develop

itself, or nutriment sufficient to keep it vigorous, is sure to be

unhealthy; and a sickly or weak state is always next door to disease. An

unhealthy plant may, indeed, become diseased at any moment; for

disease is but a development of general unhealthiness.


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Still, disease will occasionally manifest itself under the most careful and

judicious culture; and the more artificially a plant is treated, the more

will it be liable to the attacks of disease. A condition the nearest that is

possible to nature is the soundest and healthiest both in plants and

animals; and every departure from that state is more or less laden with

danger.

Barrenness, if it may be called a disease, has already bad its curepointed out. Canker in trees, especially fruit-trees, will sometimes

happen without any apparent cause. The beet remedy will be carefully

to cut out the dead or affected parts, and administer a thin plaster,

composed of clay, cow-dung, and soot. This will generally heel the

wound, and cause new bark to grow gradually over it. Mouldiness or

gangrene in stems and leaves is apt to affect plants growing in pots that

have insufficient air or too much moisture, particularly if they be at all


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succulent or tender. It should be guarded against as much as possible,

by due ventilation and dryness; but, when it appears, the parts affected

should be at once removed with a knife or if the gangrene has not

proceeded far into the stems, perhaps the use of a little quick-lime will

suspend its progress, sod at length restore the part to soundness.

Water stagnant in soils, from accidental causes, may put plants into

such a bad condition, that they will lose nearly all their root fibers, andhave nothing left but the mere trunks of the roots. When the occasion

of the evil is not discovered until it has reached to this serious extent,

and the plants are too valuable to be thrown away, they might probably

be restored by taking them out of the earth, washing their roots quite

clean, paring away all their diseased or decaying parts, and planting or

potting them afresh under more congenial auspices. With subsequent

attention, they may thus be made to surmount the disease.


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In stiff clayey soils, cherry-trees will sometimes take to exuding a great

deal of gum from their stems, and shortly afterwards exhibit all the

symptoms of decay. There appears no remedy for this but planting

them in much lighter and better drained ground. The attack seems

produced by a kind of repletion, or extravagant luxuriance.

A singular blight has recently affected peas in much the seine manner as

the potatoes, but chiefly in the pods. It is as unaccountable as the

potato disease, but occurs almost wholly in the later crops, which, it

may be observed, are seldom free from some kind of disease, and are

never very wholesome. They are most commonly attacked with mildew,which renders them an uncertain and unproductive crop.


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Many other kinds of diseases are incident to plants; but some of their

reputed affections are the work of insects, rather than organic disease.

They who are careful to cultivate them well have little to apprehend in

the way of ordinary natural visitations.

7.) Harmful Insects and Animals

What has been just remarked about disease arising out of imperfect

culture may be extended in great part to die attacks of insects, by which

some gardens are so much devastated. It is a curious fact that many

smaller insects do not commence their ravages on healthy plants, but

seize upon them the moment they become diseased. Indeed, the

appearance of the disease and the insects are sometimes so nearly

coincident, that it is almost difficult to decide which comes first. One


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thing is certain, however, and pregnant with instruction, which is, that

healthy plants that are altogether in good condition, and are well cared

for, do not attract insects, any more than disease, nearly so much as

those which are feeble and badly tended.

Neglected and slovenly gardens likewise, as it is well known, afford a

convenient harborage for many kinds of insects and pests. Garbage lying

about in little heaps, decaying vegetable matter, little gatherings of

divers loose substances in the corners and about the bottoms of palings

or hedges, accumulations of weeds, and any species of untidiness, all

give a resting, and lurking, and breeding place for slugs, snails,numerous insects, mice, &c., which speedily overrun a garden, and

destroy the greater part of its produce. Cleanliness and order are,

therefore, the best preventives of insect gatherings.


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Still, the greatest precaution and care are not always effectual in

excluding such depredators; and they will, therefore, have to be dealt

with as enemies, and destroyed as soon as they appear. It is of the

greatest consequence that they be taken in time, and that a garden

should be strictly preserved. in the sense of excluding almost every

kind of animal life, rather than of cherishing it. Most insects and pest

multiply with such amazing rapidity, that if they be not check early, theirravage will be indefinitely prolonged and well almost infinitely

extended.

Steeply sloping areas can provide many challenges and opportunities for

property owners.


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8.) Landscape the slope

Steep slopes are defined as areas of land that rise greater than twenty

percent in angle. This translates to two feet of elevation change for

every ten feet of walking area. Depending upon the soil type, slopes

that are less than twenty percent are usually more stable and easier to

maintain.

Steep slopes can create problems in the landscape. If these areas are in

turfgrass, they are difficult and dangerous to mow with lawnmowers. A

larger problem for steeply sloping areas is that they are often subject to

soil erosion. Erosion problems from rainwater runoff can become so

severe that large gullies can form. These gullies can continue to spread

in size with each major rainfall as torrents of water wash through the


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gulch. If unchecked, severe erosion problems have been known to

undermine the foundations of houses and other structures. Water

naturally follows the lowest and easiest course, so it is best to retain or

even create permanent drainage channels on steep slopes. Large

permanent structures such as boulders and stones, or constructed

check dams, can be placed into gullies to prevent further soil erosion.

Nature solves erosion problems by using vegetation in even thesteepest mountainous terrains. Trees and shrubs create a tight network

of roots and stems that not only bind soil particles together, but also act

to slow the force of rushing water down the hillside. Lawngrass on steep

slopes can help to bind the soil with roots, but do not perform a very

good job of slowing water runoff. Thus, heavy rains can wash away turf,

roots and all. Taller growing grasses, wildflowers, and shrubs and trees

do a much better job of slowing water runoff.


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II. Landscaping

A well designed landscape can provide years of enjoyment for your

family, and significantly add to your home's value. All good ideas begin

with a plan. Homeowners that begin their landscape without a

developed plan may end up less than satisfied with the results. Often, a

home landscape is accomplished in individual, separate steps that do

not coordinate as well together when completed. This is because anoverall idea was not formed and resolved first, from which the

individual components can then be completed. A plan is actually the

result of a logical series of decision making.

A successful residential landscape plan must work functionally as well asaesthetically. Selecting plant types is actually the last step of the design

process. Fully understanding the property's drainage, soils and ecology;

locating all existing site elements; developing a 'wish list' of use areas


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and locating them properly; and resolving these elements together into

a successful format should be accomplished first. This publication is

designed to assist you in the steps of the residential design process to

help you develop a landscape plan. For planning or help with structural

features, consult a qualified landscape architect for assistance.

9.) Develop a base plan.

A base plan, or plot plan, shows the layout of the property and

accurately locates the permanent site elements on a residential lot. In

urban areas and developments, lots have typically been surveyed. The

property survey should show all property edges, setbacks and right of

ways, building and pavement locations, and other permanent site

elements. To construct your base plan, simply redraw the property


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survey to scale at a larger size. For small properties under an acre in

size, a scale of 1 inch:10 feet is an appropriate drawing scale. Use an

architectural ruler or an engineer's scale to measure; these supplies are

available at most drafting or art shops. If there is no property survey,

especially if you are interested in locating permanent structures

adjacent property lines such as fences, pavement, etc., it is prudent to

have a survey conducted by a reputable surveyor.

The base plan should show the following information:

All property lines.Bodies of water (streams, lakes, ponds, low areas)Buildings, including

floor plan with doors and windows


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downspouts

outside water spigots

outside electrical outlets

decks and overhangs

air conditioner units

All walls, fences, utility boxes and poles, fire hydrants, etc.Roads, drives, parking areas, walks and paths, patios, swimmingpoolsOn and off site utilities including electric, telephone, gas, water,

sewer, septic tanks and field drains.

Off site elements including adjoining roads and drives, bodies ofwater, and structures.

Compass directions showing north, east, south and west.The scale size of the base plan.


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10.) Conduct a site inventory and analysis.

Take a clean sheet of tracing paper and tape it over the enlarged base

plan. Label this sheet 'site inventory and analysis.' A site inventory is a

list of all the additional site elements and environmental factors that

were not listed on the base plan. A site analysis is an evaluation or

judgment about the conditions of the site elements.

Site inventory:Locations of steep slopes, drainage swales, and where site

water is draining.

Soil types and characteristics.

All existing tree, shrub and other vegetation types andlocations.

Locations of sunny and shady areas of the property.


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Summer and winter wind directions.

Existing building and neighborhood architectural styles.

Locations of storage and functional use areas.

Site Analysis:Health and condition of trees and shrubs.

Where good views and poor views (both on and off site) of the

property are.Items that need to be replaced or repaired, including fences,

driveways, walls walkways, patios, etc.

Health and condition of the lawn.

Areas where erosion is occurring.

Noting where drainage areas need to improve.

Identifying valuable wildlife plants and areas.

Identifying invasive exotic plants that should be removed.


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Evaluating front walkway appearance and quality.

Identifying where shade areas need to occur.

Need for improving storage or service areas.

Noting any other features that need to be improved.

11.) Assess your family's needs.

With a base plan completed and a better understanding of the site, you

are now ready to list your proposed use areas. Each family's needs and

wants will vary with their outdoor activities. A few items to consider

when developing your landscape plan needs may include:

Use areas for family pets, such as open lawn. Identify outdoor needs for cooking areas, sun bathing, lounging, and

reading.


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What size and types of outdoor entertaining areas are needed?What types of recreation areas are needed for your family?How much maintenance are you willing to provide for gardens and

use areas?

Identify the budget that you willing to spend for variousimprovements.

What are the outdoor storage needs for equipment, firewood,vehicles or boats?

What types of gardens, water features, pathways do you wish tocreate?

Do you wish to attract birds, butterflies and other wildlife?


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12.) Locate the use areas.

The outdoor areas of your property should have a strong relationship

with the areas and activities within your home. For example, outdoor

cooking areas should be located adjacent indoor kitchen or dining

facilities. Service and storage areas should be located away from main

use areas and views from the home. Patios and decks should directly tie

into main circulation areas from the home.

Take another sheet of tracing paper and overlay onto the base plan.

Draw zones where these different use areas could best occur to their

approximate sizes. Try several different schemes until the best layout is

evident.


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13.) Develop the use areas.

It is easier to develop each of the outdoor use areas separately and later

combine them into the overall plan. Imagine yourself sitting within or

using each area as you develop the design ideas. For example, to design

a patio space, first decide on the elements that would make a successful

seating area. Seats, tables, overhead shade structures, a sense of

enclosure, views, water features, or other elements may be included.Reviewing garden magazines, books and visiting other successful spaces

may provide visual ideas that may assist you. To get an idea of the size

of a space, take a garden hose and roughly lay out the outline for the

area. Move the garden hose to adjust the size of the space until it is the

appropriate scale and form. It is best to select building material types

and forms that will match and fit the character of the home and the

surrounding area.


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14.) Develop the planting plan.

A general list of plants that are suited to each of the unique conditions

of the site should be generated first. Depending upon what your

landscape offers; make a list of plants appropriate for sunny and dry

conditions, sunny and wet conditions, shady and dry conditions or shady

and wet conditions. From this list of suitable plants, you may then

choose combinations that best complement each other.

Planting areas should complement all outdoor use areas and

architectural features. Planting plans typically start with the need and

location of large shade trees, then smaller understory trees, then large

shrubs, and finally smaller plants. Deciduous trees should be placed onthe south and west side of the home to provide shade to the home and

outdoor use areas in summer, yet provide sunlight during the cooler


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months. Draw in the outline of the plants at their maximum maturity

size.

Planting beds should directly reflect the forms of all paving areas and

outdoor use areas. If rectangular patio forms are selected, simply

extend a rectangular planting bed of the appropriate size to

complement. Remember to use the design principles of rhythm, unity,

balance, and focal points for planting combinations.

III Garden Layout

15.) How to Layout a Garden

From that beautiful variety of taste which brings the commonest

persona into association with the more cultivated, and secures for

objects, that many would regard as inferior, a certain amount of


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approbation and patronage; scarcely any two individuals will be

disposed to select, where there is a full latitude of choice, and a

thorough knowledge of every peculiarity, precisely the same spot for aresidence. What would perfectly satisfy one might be displeasing to

another. The conditions that some would even detest, others might

actually covet. And this it is, united to the fact that few can obtain

exactly all they desire, and that, from local or other ties, the alternative

must generally lie between situations which comprise a greater or less

proportion of the required capabilities; that distributes the population

of our towns pretty equally over the suburbs, and brings districts into

use that would otherwise remain entirely waste, or be devoted only to

the farmer.

Railways, however, with their annual contracts for conveyance, and the

rapidity, ease, and certainty of transit, are now gradually bringing other


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parts of the country within the range of selection, and enabling the

town merchant or man of business to locate himself from ten to twenty,

or even thirty miles from the town, and thus get the benefit of countryair and rural pleasures.

And from the greater abundance and cheapness of land in such districts,

a wider field of choice is afforded, and more scope for the exercise of

judgment and taste.

Although, therefore, every person will necessarily have his own peculiar

inclinations, and the opportunities of gratifying a refined and enlarged

feeling may be very limited; it is right that a book like the present, which

professes merely to be suggestive, should point out thosecharacteristics most generally desirable in a place, and which might not

be thought of, or would possibly be but lightly regarded, if not thus


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specifically presented; leaving everyone to the exercise of his individual

wishes, either with or without such aids.

16.) What to Avoid

Every one acquainted with the history of science and geographical

discovery will be aware that the labors of the ingenious speculates and

the pioneer, though often resulting quite abortively, as far as their

particular object is concerned, are always accounted valuable by those

who succeed them. It is not the mere unfolding of truth to others which

constitutes the real criterion of usefulness in life. The exposure of error

may be fully as necessary and as beneficial. Hence, the man who, in histravels, finds that a certain point cannot be attained by a particular

route, and he who, by his scientific experiments, or imaginative flights,


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reveals the tracts which cannot profitably be further pursued, will

sometimes accomplish nearly as much good as the more successful but

less adventurous investigator. In aiming, therefore, to bring the subjectfairly before the reader, it will be necessary, at starting, to show what

are the things which the amateur should not do, before proceeding to

speak of such should actually be performed. Many person who has

gardened for himself has, no doubt, for want of such beacons,

irretrievably spoiled his place before discovering his error; or, at least,

involved himself in a considerably larger outlay, or rendered the whole

design patchy and disjointed.


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17.) What to Attain

In proceeding to the various points which the designer of a garden

should endeavor to compass, as far as the nature of the locality and

other unavoidable conditions will allow, it may be well to premise that

any rules here furnished can only be of general application, it is

obviously impossible to lay down principles which shall embrace every

variety of case; and hence some who practice landscape gardeningdepend mainly on their eye, both in creating and judging of artificial

scenery. Doubtless, too, there u much in almost every garden which

requires it to be treated peculiarly, in some way or other; the outline

and surface of the plot, the position, arrangement, and aspects of the

house, and the requirements of the owner, having mostly something in

them different from what they are in any other place, and consequently

needing a corresponding difference of treatment. And it is in the skilful


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use and blending of these various objects and purposes that the art of

the landscape-gardener consists. In reference, therefore, to such

circumstances, general rules would seem, at first sight, to be of littleuse, or an actual disadvantage; embarrassing and encumbering rather

than aiding the practitioner.

But the advantage of fixed principles, even in the most uncommon and

complex examples, will only be overlooked on a cursory view. Closerobservation will always show that, although there may be cases in

which no recognized law could be carried out in its naked simplicity, yet

that some modification or mixture of one or more rules must be

adopted, in order to produce any really good effect; and that, while

such a result may be accomplished by accident, it is far easier, and more

satisfactory, to attain it by design. In what follows, then, most of the

rules given will be found more or less applicable to all gardens of the


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class treated of; though they will often require much consideration, and

acme ability, to adapt them to particular localities. It will, however, be a

primary aim to render them as suited as is possible to the condition ofthe mass of those likely to consult them.

18.) General Objects

A basis of sound principles being now laid, it will be necessary to

advance a step further, and consider those objects worthy of

attainment which are most likely to come within the scope of the

majority of places. I shall thus descend, by gradual stages, into matters

more and more practical, until, at lust, minor details and operations fillup the scale of instruction. In a field so wide, however, it will of course

be incompatible with the limits of a book like the present to touch upon


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any but the most important heads, or to do so otherwise than very

lightly.

19.) Particular Objects

Another step downwards towards what is practical has now to be made.

Several peculiar and more definite objects, which could not with

propriety be called general, because they apply to special cases and less

common circumstances, have here to be discussed. And in thus

travelling towards last minute matters, I cannot do better than begin

with noticing the influence of little things on all questions of taste.

As most of the comforts, and all the elegancies and refinements of life,

consist in attention to numerous small matters which are in themselves

insignificant, but which, together, compose a beautiful and agreeable


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whole; so the expression and character of a garden will be cultivated

and tasteful, or otherwise, according as its minor features are well

arranged and well executed. It is surprising how much a few triflingobjects or circumstances may do in the way of imparting tone to a

place. There is comparatively little difference between the mode in

which a first-rate artist and an inferior one would work up a picture

consisting of the same elements; but in that little, what a world of

meaning and expression might be conveyed! In laying out a garden, too,

where much the same general features have to be dealt with, how

much alike, yet how very distinct, would be the products of an

untutored and unskillful operator, and the creations of the studied, and

the practiced, and the delicately perceptive lover of art.


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20.) Practical Directions

Questions of taste, even in relation to the smallest matters, having now

been discussed to as great an extent as is compatible with the limits of a

book like the present, I have only further to notice a few things

respecting the actual execution of work; and these refer rather to

matters of expense or comfort, and the elements of success in

cultivation. Of them, likewise, it may be truly said, as of points in taste,that little considerations will often be far from light or trifling in their

influence, but may determine altogether the propriety or undesirable of

any particular course. Indeed, the nearer we approach to subjects

entirely practical, the more weighty and important will every topic of

inquiry become; in proportion as necessary things are of greater

moment than such as are merely desirable. As books, however, can only

deal with general points of practice, there will not be much in this part


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of the work to detain us long. The more minute details belong rather to

the business of ordinary gardening than to that of laying out and

forming a place.


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BeAwareEarly com 20 Things you Need to know about Gardening Service

Closure

Now that you have the point on what the gardener knew, may you have

the assessment what the gardener knew on beautifying your garden.

These points were just mere little reflections on the knowledge of

experiences the gardener acquired or it is just really on their blood. As

part of your decision making, you can obtain knowledge of gardening

through books like this. You can make your own decisions and your ownstyles that fit your personality or your landscape. Or you can consult a

gardening service with lot of knowledge that will do all the hard work

for you and the best possible layout of your home from the experts

stand point. Still the last decision is yours, the decision to make your

house as eye catching from the outside and make it very interesting that

something you want to boast from.

20 things you need to know about gardening service

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