1998 - #3 (fall) diy marinemaintenance

WINTERIZING11 LAY-UP AFLOAT

Most boats can handle a coldwinter in the water provided theboat is properly prepared andprotected from icebuildup.This step-by-stepguide tellsyou how towinter yourboat afloat, build a shrink-wrapcover and offers some need-to-know off-season storage tips. By Paul & Sheryl Shard

UPGRADE30 DECK-ORATING AN

OLDER CRUISER Resurfacing worn nonskid withglued-on synthetic material is agood alternative to painting andoffers exceptional traction. Here’s how. By Craig E. Anderson

REFIT33 INSTALLING A

PRESSURE-WATERSYSTEMFollow these easy instructions forinstalling and troubleshooting apressure-water system then justturn a tap and water flows. Whatcould be better! By David & Zora Aiken

MAINTENANCE38 THE LITMUS TEST

Whether your boat is with or with-out blisters or a barrier coat, usethis test to survey your boat, youmight be surprised.By Roman Folk

40 FAST REMOVAL OFBOTTOM PAINTSAn effective, non-abrasive alterna-tive to sanding, grinding or apply-ing chemical strippers. By Don Campbell

7 DIY ProjectsThe Budget Bimini: A light-weight, easy-to-build cover supportto protect your boat in the off-season.

9 ShopTalk By Wayne Redditt

Brightwork Blues: Patience,preparation, technique and fre-quent touch-ups are the keys to aprofessional-looking varnish job.

20 ElectronicsInstalling Logs And DepthSounders: Follow these easysteps to worry-free installations.By Charles Moore

Engine Troubleshooting23 Noise and Vibration Control:

Flexible engine mounts can greatlyreduce vibration from an enginethat is “hard” mounted. Here’swhat you need to know aboutselecting, sizing and installing theproper engine mounts. By Robert Hess

28 Wear-Free Cold EngineStarts: Install a prelubrication oilsystem and eliminate prematurefailure of engine components dueto lack of lubrication on start-up.

44 DocksideIdeal Sealant For BeddingHardware; Super Glues-All

48 Good BoatkeepingPerfect Ports: Here’s a way tomake a neat job of installing non-opening, non-leaking ports.By David & Zora Aiken

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DIY MARINEMAINTENANCEM A G A Z I N E

the1998 - #3 (FALL)

DepartmentsFeatures

2 Back Issues Index to available back issues3 Currents Reader Exchange & Spare Parts4 Q&A Talkback Stalling on Shifting; Faulty Fuel Gauge; Prep

and Paint for Keel; Troubleshooting Bennett Tabs; Raising a Drowned Outboard.

6 Tech Tips Original tips and tricks

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CURRENTSEngineered FindingsSmall Parts Inc. stocks a collection of specialty, hard-to-find materials and tools. Some of the less common itemsyou’ll find in the company’s 448-page catalog include anadhesive measuring tape, nylon machine screws, pocketscrew checker, cloth self-sticking wire markers, luminouspaint, portable saw horse, black phenolic (resin) instru-ment boxes, tool magnetizer, step drills and stainless one-ear clamps. Materials inventory includes aluminum brass,bronze and stainless steel bar, rod and sheet stock, fas-

teners including stainless steel Torx,O-rings in every available size andmore! The 34-year-old company islocated at 13980 N.W. 58th Court,P.O. Box 4650, Miami Lakes, FL33014-0650; Tel: (800) 220-4242or (305) 558-1038, Fax: (800)423-9009, Email: smlparts@ small-parts.com or visit its website atwww.smallparts.com.

http://www.diy-boat.com

Emergency Repairs DefinedI just received back issue 1997-#1. The “Quick Fix”chart on page 38 shows various products for emer-gency repairs above and below the waterline. TheMarine-Tex product is incorrectly shown as not beingrecommended for below waterline repairs. This productis, in fact, an excellent choice for below waterlinerepairs. Unfortunately, the error now makes me suspectof the rest of the data contained in the chart. Peter Dyer, Pocket Rocket, Mystic, Conn.

The criterion for below waterline emergency applica-tions in this article was for products that have the abilityto be applied while the boat is in the water. It’s not anemergency repair if you need to first haul the boat.There’s an asterisk beside the heading “Below WL” anda footnote marked with an asterisk on the left side at thebottom of the page that states: “Can be applied withboat in the water.” We do try to be 100% technicallyaccurate and in this instance, we are correct.

SPARE PARTSYeoman Exchange ProgramUntil December ‘98, Yeoman is offering owners of itsoriginal ChartKit the chance to trade in units andreceive a US$100 discount off the price of a newYeoman Sport (US$699) laptop model, or NavigatorPro (US$779). Upgraded versions of both units are alsoavailable with radar plotting and/or an internal full-func-tioning 12 channel GPS. Contact Yeoman at (410) 263-7335, fax to (410) 263-8318 or send an email to [email protected].

Tartan ReplacementsDIY reader Joe Palmer wrote us about his company thatmay be a good resource for owners of classic Tartansailboats. Any Tartan produced before 1989 and nowout of production is considered (at least for Palmer’s pur-poses) a “classic.” Formerly manager of Tartan’sCustomer Service Department, when the sailboat manu-facturer ceased production in 1990 he founded withTartan’s cooperation the Customer Service Company toprovide original replacement parts from the originalTartan Marine tooling. To obtain a copy of his 90-pageparts catalog contact him at 203 River St., Grand River,OH 44045; Tel: (800) 486-7245 in the U.S. only, oremail to [email protected].

4

TALKBACKStalling on Shifting

Q: I have a ‘88 Doral Cavalierwith 4.3L V-6 205 hp MerCruiserwith an Alpha 1 outdrive. When Iput the engine in reverse and giveit gas it stalls, then when I shift fromreverse to forward, it doesn’talways engage. Is this adjustable oris major transmission work needed?Colin Johnson, Kitchener, Ont.

A: What you most likely have is afailed shift-shaft seal. The shift cableis seizing up because the seal isgone, allowing water into that cavi-ty causing galvanic corrosion andthe symptoms you are experiencing.This isn’t a very expensive job,seals and cable cost about $65,but it’s a time-consuming one. You’llneed to purchase a replacementbell housing shift-shaft seal andreplacement assembly — it’s amore robust updated version thanthe original. You’ll also need a newthru-transom or intermediate shiftcable. This repair should beaddressed immediately. If it goesunchecked, you’ll have major stern-drive damage.— Steve Auger, Mercury Marine

Faulty Fuel Gauge

Q: I have a ‘89 Sea Ray 280Sundancer with twin 260-hpMerCruisers and a single 454L(120gal) fuel tank. When I fill thetank, the gauge pegs way past fulland stays there until I tap the gaugeor 1/4 to 1/2 of the fuel is used.Any suggestions on what is wrongand how to fix it?

Chuck Schumacher, Fish-N-Fun,Chicago, Ill.

A: If you need to tap the gauge itprobably has suffered stray currentcorrosion damage. Replacement ofthe gauge is recommended which isnormally replaced with the corre-sponding sender. However, you caninstall a gauge only, then have yoursender recalibrated so it’s compati-ble. Exposed fuel vapors can befatal, so we suggest having yourdealer handle this job.— Steve Auger, Mercury Marine

Prep and Paint for Keels

Q: We recently hauled our 6.9m(23’) Hunter sailboat for the summerand it’s sitting on the hard inPalmetto, Fla. After four years insaltwater, rust is bleeding throughthe bottom paint that remains on thefixed wing keel. We’ve scrapedand power washed the barnaclesand growth off the bottom. Otherthan sanding and wire brushing, isthere another method to remove therust and scale from the keel? Shoulda primer coat of Rustolium or redlead be applied to the keel prior topainting with bottom paint? Also,the previous owner painted the vinylboot top with bottom paint. Is therea product that would remove thepaint from the boot top withoutdamaging it?W. G. Trent, Barrie, Ont.

A: According to Kevin Milne ofMarskeel Technology, the keel mustbe brought to a bright, clean,abraded surface before painting. Todo this, have the keel blasted withbaking soda or sand, or grind thekeel using a 17.7cm (7”) anglegrinder with a 36-grit resin fiberdisc. Shroud the hull with plastic tominimize dust and wear a respira-

tor and protective clothing whengrinding. Immediately after grind-ing, wipe the keel to removeresidue with a solvent wash, suchas Interlux 202. Apply one coat ofInterprotect 2000E, 3M MarineWater Barrier Coating or otherepoxy or vinylester underwater bar-rier coating to the bare metal withinone hour of surface preparationand allow at least a four-hour dry-ing time under normal conditions.Apply an underwater fairing com-pound, if required, then finish withthree to four coats of your chosenbarrier coating. When repaintingthe bottom, the paint should ideallyextend 7.6cm (3”) above the water-line. We’re not aware of any prod-uct that will remove paint from vinylstriping; your only solution is torestripe. We’d like to hear fromreaders or manufacturers who havea solution. — Jan Mundy

TroubleshootingBennett TabsQ: I need a primer on Bennett trimtabs. The port tab no longer oper-ates and when I removed the linefrom the power unit, no fluid comesout of the outlet. Any assistance asto this specific problem would begreatly appreciated. David Mazurik, Jo-Lo, Marblehead,Ohio

A: Tom McGow of Bennett Marinesuggests that you first isolate thecause of the fault then conduct aseries of tests. Is the unit receiving asolid 12 volts? Low voltage willsometimes cause the solenoids tonot open, preventing the tabs frommoving even though the pumpmotor is running. Remove the wires

DIY boat owner 1998 - #3


from the helm control and touch together as follows:orange (positive), blue, red — port trim tab down;orange, blue, green — starboard trim tab down;orange, blue, red, green — both trim tabs down;orange, yellow, red — port trim tab up; orange, yel-low, green — starboard trim tab up; orange, yellow,red, green — both trim tabs up. If the trim tabs functioncorrectly for each wire grouping then the switch is atfault. Also note that any loose or missing screws on theback of the switch (whether a wire is connected thereor not) can cause the pump to malfunction. This testmay also be done right at the pump by substituting a“hot” lead for orange. There is usually a connector tothe wire harness within a foot or so of the pump. Youwant to check this connection for corrosion. You maywish to cut the connector off on the pump side and trythe test on bare wires. If you suspect corrosion on thewire connector near the pump, cut it out, test as aboveand reconnect using butt splices. Check to see if thereis an inline relay on the wiring harness near thehydraulic power unit. If there is, it’s an Interrupter Relay(IR1000). It prevents the system fuse from blowing ifyou try to actuate one trim tab up and the other downat the same time. After you test as outlined above, tryremoving the relay from the wiring harness and retestthe unit. If it works the IR1000 will need to bereplaced. If you conclude the problem is in the pump,contact McGow at 954/427-1400. Bennett Trim TabSystems carry a five-year warranty and offers a tradein program for units out of warranty.

Raising a Drowned Outboard

Q: My runabout with two outboards, a 9hp and 60hp, sank in clean fresh water and was recovered in acouple of days. Are there some guidelines to dry out,clean up and restart an outboard following such anevent?John Honekamp, Sea Gypsy, Richland, Iowa

A: According to Steve Auger of Mercury Marine, ifyour engine has been out of water for any longer thanthree days, it’s probably scrap. When resurfacing asubmerged outboard, you must be prepared to servicethe engine as soon as it hits the air. You’ll need to getthe water out of the fuel system and cylinders, and dryout the starter motor. Use a fresh fuel supply, installnew spark plugs, start the engine, bring it up to oper-ating temperature and run for 1/2 hour to evaporateany trapped moisture. Use a double-oil mixture to pro-tect the engine (i.e. 24:1 instead of normal 50:1) thenget it to an authorized dealer. Ideally, service must bedone within 90 minutes of resurfacing the engine or

you may have cylinder wall damage that is non-repairable. Most of the damage and corrosion thattakes place is caused by oxygen. Best to leave it onthe bottom of the lake until you’re ready to service theengine.

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Need help with a problem? Unable to findinformation on products or do-it-yourselfprojects?

DIY TALKBACK is a special reader service thatmakes available to you the resources of marineindustry experts on topics such as boat repair,engines, trailers, electricity, plumbing, electronics,sails, maintenance and more.Send your questions via mail or E-mail. Includeyour name, boat name and home port in all corre-spondence.

MAIL:TalkBack — DIY Boat Owner,.P.O. Box 22473Alexandria, VA 22304 E-MAIL: [email protected]


TAMPER-PROOF FASTENERS: Replace Phillips andslot-head fasteners with Torx which requires special star-headed screwdrivers, or Robertson heads (square), aCanadian invention and a rarity in the U.S.

A SCREW LOOSE: To prevent fasteners from becom-ing loose from vibration, place a drop of Loctite onscrews or bolt threads. For a more permanent fix, coatfasteners with epoxy glue before installing them.

RAGS FOR REPAIRS: When painting, gluing orpreparing surfaces for repair, don’t use rags cleanedwith fabric softeners since they may contain siliconesthat can corrupt your work.

BREATHING SPACE: When covering a boat with atarp, first toss the fenders overboard, then tie the coveror tarp over them. This will hold the tarp slightly awayfrom the hull and ensure the necessary ventilation to

retard mildew without leaving the cover dangerouslyloose. Use cloth fender covers to prevent paint ruboff onpainted hulls. Bill Lindsey, Hollywood, Fla.

OVERCOATING ANTENNAS: To protect hands andgear from fiberglass radio antennas that have crackedand splintered with age, cover the antennas with PVCsailboat rigging cable, available in many diameters.

SEACOCK INS AND OUTS: It’s a good idea to fre-quently open and close all seacocks to ensure valves areworking freely. So you don’t miss any and you knowtheir location in an emergency, add the placement of allseacocks to your boat plan...you know, the sketch youkeep in your log book that shows routing of wiring,plumbing, etc.

FUEL SPILL CLEAN-UP: Use a solution of white vine-gar, water and dishwashing detergent to clean dieselfuel or kerosene spills from bilges and floorboards. Dabfabrics with a sponge dipped in straight vinegar.

WATER ABSORBER: Adding a stabilizer to fuel doesn’tremove water caused by condensation or bad fuel. It’sgood preventative medicine to add a bottle of gas-lineantifreeze to the fuel tank at the beginning and end ofevery season and more often if the fuel source is suspect.

OILING BRONZE: Clean bronze that has turned greenwith a clear teak oil. It will not only remove the tar-nish easily, but tends to retard further tarnishingfor months afterwards.Bill Lindsay, Hollywood, Fla.

LINE ORGANIZER: Keep mooring lines tidywith a heavy-duty, self-tying plastic tie avail-able at garden supply centers.

Disclaimer: DIY boat owner takes no responsibility forany comments appearing in this section.

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Tech Tips welcomes contributions from readers. If youhave a boat-tested tip you’d like to share, send com-plete information along with your name, boat nameand home port to: Tech Tips DIY Boat Owner, P.O. Box 22473, Alexandria, VA 22304. You can also email it to [email protected].


PROJECTSDIYTHE BUDGET BIMINI

This lightweight, easy-to-build coversupport protects yourboat in the off-seasonand is easily adaptedto fit most cockpitconfigurations.

By Ryc Rienks

As the days shorten and the weath-er turns, the sights and sounds at themarina go through a subtle change.The music of stereos is replaced bythe chiming of halyards againstmasts, boats now wrapped in blueplastic tarps and only occasionallydo you find owners on the docks,stopping by to check on their boats.

For several seasons I wentthrough the standard routine: go tothe marina, dump the pockets ofwater from the tarp, retie as neces-sary, go below and clean up the lit-tle puddles of water the tarp wassupposed to keep out and then

leave, secure in the knowledge thatall the proper rituals had beenobserved for another week.

The real shocker to me camewhen I lifted the tarp and found thatthe progress of time and the motionof the boom had allowed the tarp tochafe through my sail cover.Granted, it was an old sail coverand had been patched numeroustimes, but a sail cover is not cheap.Worse yet, what if the mainsail hadbeen damaged? I knew I had tofind a way to improve the tarpingprocess, so pencil in hand I went towork. What I came up with follows.

To create a fairly rigid self-sup-porting structure that would drainwell, I borrowed a page from histo-ry and used the "Conestoga" con-figuration, an arched frameworksupporting a tarp. To keep theframework light and rustproof, Iused 12mm (1/2") PVC pipe andtee-fittings. The plastic pipe flexes, iseasy to cut and supported by a vari-ety of fittings that serve as connec-tors. Starting with five pieces ofpipe, 1.5m (60") long and two tee-fittings, I created a large H-shapedassembly.

Using a hacksaw, I cut a slot inthe four remaining tee-fittings(Figure 1), enlarging the cut with a

file so the slot snapped onto the life-lines. When the slot faces outwardthe support arm tension holds every-thing in place (Figure 2). Since thiswas in a development stage, thelegs of the H assembly were forcedinto the tee-fittings, not glued.

The first attempt was the Over-The-Boom setup (Figure 3). I foundthat by supporting the frameworkends on the lifelines I would havethe needed clearance over theboom while providing standingheadroom under the tarp. Mostimportantly, it provided shoulderroom as well. The initial assemblywas floppy but adequate once thetarp was in place and cincheddown. This is a good place for ataut-line hitch or other adjustablehitch as it will allow for adjustmentof tension and the centering of thetarp.

Materials andTools

12mm (1/2") PVC pipe in lengths to 1.8m (6')

PVC elbows, tee-fittings and angles.

Pipe cement Machine screws or

cotter pins TarpHacksawFileDrill and bits Fast-curing filler

Figure 2

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If you are setting this up on a powerboat withtubular railings around the afterdeck, you might needto cut larger slots in the tee-fittings, removing say 1/3to 1/2 of the base piece to allow lashing each endto the railing.

This is a systemthat responds wellto experimenta-tion. Initially, Iwas uncertainhow to orientthe tarp, whereto run the ties,which frameconfigurationwould providethe best coverage while standing up to winter windsand whether I could rig the cover and operate the boatfrom under it during the rainy months. In actual fact, Iwas so involved in experimentation that I never gotaround to gluing it together. This made it possible touse the same pieces in several configurations includingthe next, the Under-The Boom setup.

The Under-The-Boom variation (Figure 4) allowseasier access through the lifeline gate and into thecockpit, though I do lose abit of coverage at the backof the cockpit. The biggestadvantage is ease

of setup and the ability to leave it up while underway.The companionway is well protected from the rain andwith my long tiller I have a sort of pilothouse/dodgerarrangement that has done well on long voyages in therain as well as in hot, sunny weather.

To use the framework under the boom I removedthe back two end clips and stuck the aft end of the sup-port hoop tube into the top of my genoa wincheswhere the handle goes. The forward support hoop clipsare snapped onto the inside edge of the genoa trackand can be slid into position. Once there is tension onthe assembly they stay in place just fine.

In summary I have to admit that the frame did not

always stay together, and the tee-fittings do break ifthey are too stressed. On the other hand, the supportsprovide more space under the tarp and prevent theaccumulation of large pools of water that can dam-age the tarp and flood the boat. Once you achievea configuration you like, you can always glue all the

bits together. Should a fitting break and needreplacing, they cost little. If they are glued on,

all you need to do is cut off the stub.You'd only be shortening that leg by

about one inch. Another method oflocking the pieces together would be todrill a small hole and machine screwtogether or use cotter keys as assem-bly pins. The ability to disassemblethe structure, reducing it to a small

bundle of tubing and a folded tarp, means a lot on asmaller vessel where space is always at a premium.

Choose a style and assembly method that satisfiesyou. But if you wish to protect your boat and yourselfinexpensively, you will find this approach paying foritself in comfort and utility.

A former musician, custom knife-maker, teacher and writer, RycRienks lives with his wife aboard a Cascade 36, currentlyberthed in San Francisco.

Figure 3

Figure 4

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By Wayne Redditt

There is nothing quite as satisfyingas a professional varnish job andsuccess is easily within reach of thededicated do-it-yourselfer if youremember a couple of simple rules.Namely, that patience is everythingand preparation is the most impor-tant part of everything else.

Varnish is an ongoing commit-ment and the job will never be com-pleted. Renewal is constant, whichmay make you decide to paint yourbrightwork instead of varnishing.

If you decide to stick with thevarnish, there are three steps to beundertaken. The first two fall into theprep category and the third is actualfinishing. Prior to these steps makesure you do the normal pre-prepthings, such as removing and label-ing hardware.

Removal of the Old FinishRemoving the old finish is done byone of three ways: a heat gun,chemical strippers or abrasives. Theheat gun works very nicely onceyou’ve mastered the art. Practice onsomething expendable before youwork on your brightwork. It shouldrequire only a matter of secondsbefore the old varnish is soft enoughto be scraped. Use a paint or cabi-net scraper, not a putty knife. Pull thescraper towards you, along thedirection of the grain. Paint scrapersrequire constant sharpening in orderto work effectively. Use a file torenew the edge, matching the origi-

nal bevel angle. Don’t do this job onthe boat or you’ll embed iron parti-cles in the deck, which subsequentlyrust.

Chemical strippers are usuallynasty chemicals. Some newer strip-pers on the market use citrus oils asthe active ingredient but I have foundthese to work more slowly. [A test ofSafest Stripper by 3M Marineappears in an upcoming issue —Ed.] Whatever brand you choose,protect the boat by masking areas

not to be stripped and wear gloves,protective clothing and an appropri-ate respirator. Read the directionscarefully. Strippers work best whenthey are applied as a thick gooeylayer that isn’t allowed to dry out.Remove the stripped finish with anylon bristle brush or bronze wool.Capturing the residue is an importantaspect of using a chemical stripperand requires some forethought. Smallparts should be done in a part’swasher if possible. Larger permanentstructures will require a different tac-tic. Please don’t wash the stuff intothe lake.

Scraping with the heat gun is myfavored method, scraping without the

heat gun preferable to sanding, andabrasives my last choice for finishremoval but sometimes there is noother way. Avoid belt sanders andangle grinders as they always createmore work than they save. Thegreatest addition to your sandingarsenal is an electric random orbitalsander. It removes material in ahurry and doesn’t leave heel marksor gouges. Sandpaper changes arefast when coupled with 3M’s Hookitsanding disks and most can be pur-chased with dust collectors as anintegral part of the sander.

Prep SandingOnce the wood is stripped of the oldfinish it must be prepped for finish-ing. Mask off areas that are not tobe sanded and repair any splits orgouges in the woodwork before pro-ceeding. Varnish will not fill incracks. Use epoxy mixed with saw-dust (or sanding dust) of the samespecies of wood to fill in cracks andsplits.

Most boat woods do not needsanding to a fine grit before varnish-ing. Cabinet woods like maple mayneed prepping with 32-grit sandpa-per before coating, but teak andmahogany rarely need sandingbeyond 120 to 150 grit. Use alu-minum oxide or white silicon carbidesandpaper, not garnet. If fairing isrequired, cross-sand first with 60grit, remove the scratches with 80grit sanding along the grain, thenfinish with 120 grit with the grain.Make sure there are no cross-scratch-es left anywhere or these will beclearly visible once varnished. Use atroublelight held at an angle to thesurface to check for any cross-scratches.

It’s possible to use the randomorbital sander for the initial prep

BRIGHTWORK BLUESPatience, preparation, technique and frequenttouch-ups are the key factors to a professional-looking varnish job.


sanding, but always finish by hand sanding. Use blocksto back up your abrasive. Rubber 1/4- and 1/2-sheetblocks are available at most hardware or automotivestores. You can make your own blocks from a piece ofsoftwood if needed. Never, sand without a block.

VarnishingPrior to applying any finish, vacuum the surface and usea good quality tack rag to remove all traces of dust.When vacuuming, use the brush attachment to avoidscratching the surface.

The initial coat should be thinned. Most manufactur-ers indicate on the container’s label the maximum thatthe varnish should be thinned, although you can usuallyget away with thinning it even more for the first coat. Iusually start with varnish thinned 50:50 for the first coaton bare wood. Within an hour, recoat with a 75:25mixture to achieve the “sealing” that pros often refer to.The next day, use a cabinet scraper or 120-grit paper toknock down the nibs. Apply the next coat of varnishthinned 10%. Wait a day, then sand with 240-grit drypaper. Use a tack rag to remove dust before each coat.This is the time to fill all deep gouges with color-matchedwood filler. When cured, sand the filler level. All coat-ings will now be at full strength. Repeat the sand-tack-varnish ritual for six coats, waiting a day between apply-

ing and sanding. Make sure you use a sanding block toback up your paper. Apply the next two coats, switchingto wet sanding between coats with 400-grit paper. If allgoes well, you will have a perfect finish after eightcoats.

Brushing technique is important for a successful job.The two critical steps are coverage without sagging andspeedy work to prevent dry edges. The former requiresthat you apply enough varnish to produce good thickconsistent coverage without runs or sags.

To achieve coverage, quickly spread a brush full ofvarnish using random strokes on the area you are work-ing. Once the brush starts to run dry, go back over thearea you have just done with a “tipping” motion — uselight pressure to level the varnish and remove brushstrokes, usually in the direction of the wood grain.Reload your brush and starting in an area that is unvar-nished, brush on the varnish, slightly extending into thepreviously varnished area slightly. Work quickly so theoverlapped area maintains a wet edge. Keeping thisedge wet is one of the more important varnishing tech-niques that come with experience. If you are working indirect sunlight or on a really hot day, the varnish willbegin to dry more quickly and the wet edge will be diffi-cult to keep. It may be necessary to employ an assistant.One person puts the varnish on, while the other “tips”the varnish. A combination of foam rollers and brushesworks particularly well for tandem varnishing of largesurfaces.

Dust-free varnish surfaces are nearly impossible toachieve, due to the long drying time of the product. Sodo your best, enjoy your varnish work, and don’t fretabout the odd dust speck.

Wayne Redditt teaches boatbuilding, repair and restoration atGeorgian College’s Marine Technology-Recreation course inOrillia, Ont. Inquiries directed towards this column are welcome.Send your comments or questions via mail, fax or e-mail, atten-tion ShopTalk.

stantial savings advantage in boat-yard fees. Winter rates for outdoorstorage include haulout, wash andlaunch, and range from US$17 toUS$32 per linear foot. Fees forstorage in-water vary widely, fromUS$42 per linear foot in Michiganup to CD$63 in Ontario.

If you choose to be a full-timeliveaboard, living expenses aremuch less than maintaining a homeashore. In many areas, there areliveaboard communities in primedowntown waterfront locationswhose living costs are significantlyless than those of their neighborsashore.

In you winter afloat, you'llneed to notify your insurance com-

"I would go to the marinaon weekends to enjoy the solace ofbeing aboard in winter and do the littletasks that you never get around towhen you're sailing." Richard Asztalos,St. Clair Shores, Mich.

pany. Check your policy for"Exclusions" that concern ice andsnow. Snow load can be an exclu-sion if you don't take adequateprecautions.

Not Just Any Port Finding a safe harbor that offersthe necessary utilities and facilitiesneeded is the first step towards suc-cessfully wintering afloat. Protectionfrom surge and swell is particularlyimportant when you are dealingwith ice in the water.

Not all marinas or yacht clubsoffer year-round services to boatersbut those that do should providereliable power for winter demandsespecially the constant running ofelectric heaters and deicers. Otherrequirements include snow removalservices, a necessity on the docks,clean showers, washrooms and


By Paul and Sheryl Shard

fter cruising year round in thesunny south it was hard for usto imagine sailing again in

northern latitudes where theprime boating season is threesummer months at best. But on arecent visit home to Toronto,Ont., we talked to a group ofhardy (some say crazy)boaters that actually winterafloat in the ice and snowand enjoy the benefits ofboating all year too. Welearned there are definiteadvantages to leaving your boat inthe water for a northern winter ifyou find the right harbor and setyour boat up properly for theweather.

Why Lay-up Afloat?A major appeal of wintering afloatis eliminating the annual ritual andcost of hauling out, storing the boatfor the season, then launching.Haulout and launch can be nerve-wracking events considering the riskto your vessel. Depending on thewater your boat is floating in, youmay be able to extend your timebetween bottom paintings, savingmoney and being kinder to theenvironment. When the time to re-do the bottom comes, you can haveyour boat hauled out for only a fewdays and then be back in the wateragain. [To organize your hauloutrefer to DIY 1996-#4 Winter issue,page 9 — Ed.]

In most regions, there is no sub-

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Most powerboats and sailboats made of fiberglass, ferro-cement, steelor wood can handle a cold winter in the water provided the boat is prop-erly prepared and protected from ice buildup. Follow these guidelines towinter your boat afloat.

A


laundry facilities, and portablepump-out services. (Midnight runsto the marina washrooms can bedepressing, not to mentiondangerous, when the docksare icy.) Dockside tele-phone and cable TV ser-vices are also nice if youchoose to liveaboard full-time. Getting recommenda-tions from current winterboaters is the best way tofind a good facility.

Winter-ProofingOnce you have found securedockage for wintering yourboat afloat there are a fewconsiderations when setting upthe boat in its slip.

Strong nylon docklines andspring lines are needed to handlethe fury of winter storms and dou-bling the lines is recommended. It'salso important that lines don't hangdown into the water. When the

water freezes, the boat will be heldrigid and lines could snap in strongwinds.

Power cords should have enoughslack to handle strong motion with-out being pulled out of the recepta-cles but should not touch the water

to avoid being frozen in.When the boat is comfortablysecured in the slip, some winterboaters choose to position afloating ice boom across theopening of the slip to preventice pans and flows from dam-aging the hull. Ice booms canbe as simple as 2x4s securedacross the slip opening or achain of old tires strungtogether. The tires tend todampen any swell as well. Adeicer, which uses either apropeller (most common) orair to agitate the water andprevent it from freezing, isalso needed. A 1/2-hp

prop-driven unit will keep a 15m(50') diameter area from freezingand is hung below the boat orattached to the side of the dock.

If you decide to lay-up yourboat in the water and are not livingonboard, winterize your enginesince you are not heating the boat

JAN

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Log booms keep large chunks of iceaway from the hull and contain bubbledwater.

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on a constant basis. Since the boatis in the water, you can leave theautomatic bilge pump turned on.The bilge water won't freeze as itwould ashore. Condensationshouldn't be a problem because thewater temperature will be warmerthan the air in most cases. Close allseacocks and pour a small amountof non-toxic antifreeze (see "WhatYou Should Know AboutAntifreeze" on page 18) in all thru-hull fittings. Be sure to periodicallycheck your boat, more often whenstormy, or have the marina check itand report to you.

For many years, RichardAsztalos wintered his 9m (30') sail-boat at Jefferson Beach Marine inSt. Clair Shores near Detroit, Mich.He used a small electric heater andhung a 100-watt light bulb in theengine compartment to keep cock-pit drains and shaft packing glandsfrom freezing.

"I would keep the heat on lowto minimize the condensation, andturn it up when I arrived on week-ends," explained Asztalos.

Those living aboard are gener-ally running heaters which dry outthe boat. Asztalos, who now livesaboard Charisma, an Endeavor42, in the same marina, relies onthree electric heaters, fans to circu-late the air and two dehumidifiersplaced below the cabin floor toreduce moisture. As a safety pre-

caution, he closes all sea-cocks, except the sinkdrain and the showerpump.

Remember lastyear's mother-of-all icestorms? It knocked outpower in parts ofEastern Canada and theU.S. for a week or more.Loosing your powersource meansno bubbler

and no heat. A portablegenerator is a wiseinvestment for boaterschoosing to winter afloat.

A Proper Winter CoverIf you are living aboard orplan to be on the boat alot, the next step in prepar-ing for a comfortable winterafloat is to build a shelter over it.This gives you a snow-free space to

set down supplies and remove wetcoats and boots before going downinto the clean, dry cabin. The shel-ter also creates an insulating airpocket above the cabin top whichkeeps in heat and reduces the heat-ing bill. If the shelter is made ofclear plastic it creates a greenhouseeffect and is a warm place to

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Leave some slack in the power cordsand lash with cable ties to lines to pre-vent dropping in the water.

Mini shelter over companionway madeof heavy-duty plastic secured with sta-ples or drywall screws to a woodenframe.

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work on boat projects withoutmessing up the cabin.

A word of warning if you areusing a fuel heater such as diesel:make sure you run the chimney outthrough the shelter so you are notexhausting into the shelter. Butsince you are at a dock, most win-ter boaters prefer an electricheater. [A review of cabin heatersand step-by-step installation guide-lines appears in DIY 1997-#3issue, page 18 — Ed.]

Not everyone chooses tobuild a shelter. Some boats havea pilothouse that serves the samepurpose. Owners of cabin cruisersmay choose not to increase the

continued on page 17

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A deicer prevents surrounding water from freezing and damaging the boat.

LAY-UP AFLOAT


TO EMPTY OR NOT?Every fall you fill the fuel tanksbefore mothballing your boat forthe winter. Then one year youcan't be bothered and the boat sitsfor four months with half-full or lessfuel tanks. Now what happenscome spring?

According to some articles,nothing, all is well. But when youconsider the chemical compositionof gasoline and diesel fuels,there's a toxic mixture brewing inless-than-full tanks waiting for theengines to start up again. For anexplanation, we spoke with JeffTieger vice-president of Star brite,a Florida-based company that sup-plies myriad boat cleaners, chemi-cals and additives.

Gasoline and diesel areblends of hydrocarbons. Thesefuels are meant to be used within30 days after purchasing. After

that time, exposure to moisture andoxygen begin to degrade the fuel.Every fuel tank is vented to theatmosphere which provides a pas-sageway for moisture and oxygento enter the tank. This causes achemical reaction in the fuel, form-ing resins, gums and acids, noneof which is good for your engine.Gasoline darkens and develops ashellac-like smell. Diesel fuel conta-minated with water can smell ran-cid, almost sulfur-like, or may evensmell like mildew if algae has start-ed to grow. All are good indica-tors of fuel degradation.

Condensation from the dailychanges in air temperature con-denses on the inside of the tankand moisture droplets start buildinga water layer in the bottom of thetank. Engines don't like water.Tieger suggested that in an empty757L (200gal) tank, it's not atypi-cal to end up with 7.5L to 22.7L

(2 to 6gal) of water at the end ofa storage season. Another prob-lem is oxidation of metal tanks inareas not submerged in fuel. Thiscauses particles to flake off andfloat in the fuel.

There's also the danger of anexplosion from empty tanks. Fueldoesn't burn, only fumes do andwhen combined with oxygen, ishighly explosive. Should a chargeof static electricity from a plastictarp or other source discharge intothe fuel tank...boom!

A full fuel tank minimizes con-densation, prevents oxidation ofthe tank and keeps tank sealsimmersed in fuel. This fall, top upyour fuel tanks, leaving room forexpansion. To prevent fuel frombreaking down, add a fuel stabiliz-er and run the engine for five min-utes to distribute the stabilizer.

— Jan Mundy


BUILDING A SHRINK-WRAPCOVERBy Richard AsztalosEvery fall is a learning experiencewhen shrink-wrapping my boat. Onmy previous boat, I built the frameof conduit pipe connected byclamps, some of which cost US$5or more a piece, and rubber stop-pers so the conduit wouldn't scratchthe deck. The frame was assembledusing a pipe bender and this giantErector Set became the frame for theshrink-wrap. Total cost for the framewas US$200 plus US$100 for plas-tic shrink-wrap.

For Charisma, I built the framefrom about US$60 worth of 6.3cm(2-1/2") black PVC pipe (the typethey use for underground sprinklers),duct tape (use 3M General PurposeAdhesive Cleaner to remove taperesidue in the spring), two .9m (3')lengths of threaded rod, a few bolts,clothesline and about US$120worth of shrink-wrap. Construction isfairly simple and easily adapted tofit most powerboats and sailboats.

I start by removing the lifelines,bend sections of PVC over the boomand duct tape to each stanchion.Use extra PVC to fashion a curvedshape for the bow and stern pulpits.A ridgepole made of conduit pipe(US$2 for 3m/10' length) extendsfrom bow to stern above the PVC

and the boom, and secured withduct tape. Wrap a piece of PVCaround the mast, above the conduit.This is the highest point of the framewhere you need to secure the shrink-wrap well. For the door opening, I

like to double up with extra PVC.Drill holes through the PVC and fas-ten the two sections together withbolts, washers and nuts. This iswhere I also use the threaded rod tostart the door opening, which keepsthe shrink-wrap in place when youstart to heat and stretch. You couldalso use 2x4s bolted to secure thePVC and provide something else toattach a door to.

To keep the shrink-wrap fromblowing away, I use clothesline orshrink tape (US$20), anything thatdoesn't stretch. Run lines under theboat from stanchion to stanchionand then around the freeboard par-allel to the waterline, tying to eachof the vertical lines.

Now comes the shrink-wrap-

ping. I start by laying out the materi-al on the dock. On Charisma, thebeam is 3.9m (13') and I allowextra to overlap the freeboard by afoot or more. I cut the shrink-wrap inthree sections: the first rectangle isfor the bow and the next two arejoined by a seam that we secure atthe dock with a hand-held propanetorch. Wearing heat-tolerant gloves,the plastic is overlapped then heat-ed and patted smooth with theglove.

Now lay the plastic over theframe at the bow and using a utilityknife cut as needed to accommo-date stays, then wrap under theclothesline along the freeboard.Remaining plastic sections are thenplaced over the frame and securedto the horizontal line. Patch the for-ward bow section to the stern sec-tion, then slit the opening for thedoor, leaving extra that's wrappedaround the PVC door frames thenheated with the torch.

When everything looks ship-shape, I take a propane roofer'storch and start shrinking the plastic.Don't do this in the rain or you'llhave holes. You can always touchup the shrink-wrap and you'll proba-bly need to after the first big wind.

The most creative part is design-ing the door. The water level dropsin the late fall and sometimes myboat sits on bottom, which makesthe dock higher than the deck. Sothe type of door I need is one thatopens up not out. This year, I'm con-structing a clear plastic, bi-fold hori-zontal door.

I now have an aerodynamic,wind-resistant, snow-repelling wintergreenhouse to enjoy for fourmonths.About the author: Richard Asztalos has forthe past four years lived aboardCharisma, an Endeavor 42, at JeffersonBeach Marine in St. Clair Shores nearDetroit, Mich.An avid racer, he won firstoverall in the Cruising Class in the '98 PortHuron to Mackinaw Race.

Do-it-yourself shrink-wrapping is anaffordable alternative to plastic-wood"huts."

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Schematic of a PVC framework

and rope casing forshrink-wrapping a

sailboat.

ANN

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DIY boat owner 1998- #3 17

upperwindagebyadding a shelter. Others don't want a shelter that,despite the cold, would prevent any opportunity to goboating when they get a rare winter weather window.Some choose to just build a shelter over the cockpit orcompanionway to prevent snow getting in down below.

A popular and affordable shelter construction ismade of heavy-duty plastic sheeting stapled to a wood-en frame made of 2x4s. The plastic is rolled severallayers thick along the frame before stapling so the plas-tic doesn't tear out from the staples as easily in thewind. Some people stick heavy-duty duct tape alongthe plastic before stapling which serves the same pur-pose. For a boat up to 12m (40') long the cost to buildis about US$150. The wood can be reused if you planwell, but you'll need to purchase new plastic everyyear.

"When building a shelter of this construction it'simportant to avoid large expanses of open plasticunsupported by the frame," says Michael Guy, who has

continued on page 19

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Doorways come in a variety of designs and all mustbe strong enough to hold snow when it accumulates.

DIY boat owner 1998- #318

WHAT YOU SHOULDKNOW ABOUTANTIFREEZEEngines and water systems inboats stored in climates wheretemperatures drop below freezingmust be winterized withantifreeze. That's the easy part.What you may not know is thatthere are different types ofantifreeze and these are ratedaccording to degreeof protection. For thefacts, I contacted JeffTieger, vice-presi-dent of Star brite inFt. Lauderdale, Fla.

The two kindsof antifreeze areethylene glycol(EG), the traditionalautomotiveantifreeze that goesin a car's rad; andpropylene glycol(PG), a non-toxicplumbing antifreeze.Chemically they are both similar.EG, however, is highly toxic andhas a sweet taste. In the course ofwinterizing the engine, you'resure to spill a few drops whichcan contaminate the water supplyand if consumed by children oranimals can be fatal. You can useeither product to winterize anengine, although PG is the safersolution, but when winterizingyour water system, you must usenon-toxic (PG) antifreeze.

Winterizing involves remov-ing as much water as possible outof the plumbing or engine coolingsystem, then adding an antifreezerated for the typical temperaturesthe boat is stored in. The mostcommon antifreeze has a temper-ature rating, in Fahrenheit, of -50.This doesn't necessarily provideprotection down to -50F.According to Tieger, ratings tests

were originally conducted usingcopper pipe in homes. Boats usePVC pipe that will freeze at -15Fwith an antifreeze rated for -50F.If you stow your boat in sub-zeroconditions, you'll need to go to ahigher rating of -100F that pro-vides protection to -80F.

Antifreezes for engines arefurther divided into two classes:operating antifreeze and storageantifreeze. Operating antifreezecontains a blend of additives for

rust protection and cor-rosion resistance.Tieger doesn't recom-mend storing yourengine with operat-ing antifreeze asthese additives havea potential to clogwater passages ifthe engine is notoperated on a con-tinual basis. Bottleslabeled "Containssilicates" or "Low-

silicate formula" areclues that the product

is an operating antifreeze. Whenrecommissioning your boat in thespring, flush out the storageantifreeze and add an operatingantifreeze.

When shopping forantifreeze, look for one labeled"For storage only" or "Not forcoolant use," with a -50F to -100Frating. As a safety precaution,and to help preserve the environ-ment, don't use automotiveantifreeze. You'll probably pay apremium for marine-grade PGantifreeze, at least until EG isbanned and automotive suppliersare forced to switch, which mayhappen sooner than later. As withany additive, refer to yourowner's manuals. For technicalassistance call Star brite's techni-cal helpline at 800/327-8583,9am to 4pm EST.— Jan Mundy

lived for many years with his partner Lise St. Germainaboard his steel-hulled schooner, Blue Dragon. "Thiscreates a lot of irritating noise and vibration in thewind and doesn't support the snow load as well assmall panels."

Some marinas or yacht clubs don't like this form ofshelter due to the shanty town appearance they some-times have. An alternative shelter, preferred by manyboaters, is shrink-wrap (see "Building a Shrink-wrapCover" on page 16). The cost is about double a plas-tic-wood cover but is clean, strong and private. A bet-ter, long-term cover is acrylic (Sunbrella) or canvaswhich lasts eight to 10 years but makes the boat verydark down below. When building any shelter be surethere are no hollow spots and allow clearance forstovepipes to eliminate a back draft. On sailboats,slope the cover away from the mast and securely tapeit around the mast. To reduce the number of holesthrough the plastic cover for rigging, Asztalos recom-mends moving the lower shrouds to the uppers andsecuring them well with rigging tape.

About the authors: Paul and Sheryl Shard are the authors ofSail Away! A Guide to Outfitting and Provisioning forCruising.The new second edition is now in bookstores or canbe ordered by calling toll-free at 888/319-2365.

19

WINTER SURVIVAL TIPSA collection of tips from seasoned cold-weather boaters.

■ Dockguards Make sure you have adequatefenders as winds blow stronger in the winter.Don't use cheap fenders which become brittleand split. When purchasing fenders, bigger isbetter! Use cloth covers if the boat is painted toprevent color transferring to fenders. On largerboats use bias-ply tires if permitted by the marina.

■ Rigging On sailboats, remove the boom tolessen windage and prevent extra wear on thegooseneck. To reduce chafe, remove blocks onmast and all halyards, but first run messengerlines.— From Elizabeth Durno who winters aboardSoltice Moon, a 14.4m (48') ferro-cement sail-boat, at Bluffer's Park Marina, Scarborough, Ont.

■ Damp Off Place Dry Bunk or other similarproduct under mattresses and staple some inhanging clothes lockers close to the hull to elimi-nate moisture.

■ Safe Footing Install lifelines along the dockand keep a supply of kitty litter onboard for whendocks freeze over.

■ Think You Can Swim? Leave your dinghyin the water and toss a few lines with stop knotsin the water just in case you fall in. We have lostthree people in five years in our marina.— From Richard Asztalos

■ Power-Loss Seacocks, plumbing systemsand engines need no attention if the boat is heat-ed. But if the heating source fails, then plumbingthat is not close to the hull may freeze. As a safe-ty precaution, winterize the engine and runantifreeze through all thru-hull fittings.— From Michael Guy who leaves Blue Dragon, aColvin 34, in the water at Port Credit Marina,Mississauga, Ont.

TIPS


20 DIY boat owner 1998- #3

Story and illustrations by Charles Moore

Many boatowners get cold feetwhen it comes to electronic instru-ment installations that involve cut-ting holes in the bottom of theirpride andjoy. But notto worry.It's reallynot very dif-ficult toachieve aprofessionalcaliber andleak-freeinstallation.

The firsttask is tomount thehull unit,either a knot-meter impeller or sounder transduc-er. One aspect to consider whenmounting the unit, is where crane ortravelift slings will bear on the hull

during haulouts. With some speedor logs, the impeller unit can beremoved from inside the boat andreplaced with a dummy plug toavoid haulout and launch damageor to clear fouling.

The simplest installation is on arunabout, where it mounts on thetransom just below the waterlineand at least 30cm (12") from theoutdrive. In larger cruisers and sail-boats, the hull unit is best posi-tioned in an area of low turbu-lence well below the water-line, approximately amid-ships for cruisers and for-ward of the keel in sail-boats. This will not always be possi-ble however, and a good alterna-tive spot, especially on relativelyhard-bilged, flat-bottomed boats(power or sail), is about 2/3 aftand off the centerline.

Once the ideal spot is deter-mined, it may still prove difficult toaccess, especially on boats withpan-type hull liners. Should you cut

a hole in the liner or choose a lesssuitable but more accessible loca-tion? If you opt to cut, an accesspanel of wood or other materialcan be fabricated and screwed inplace against a rubber gasket ifwatertight integrity is to be retained(Figure 1).

Hole in OneNow you must cut the dreaded holeor perhaps not (see "MountingTransducers Inside" on page 22).The usual method is to use a sharp,metal-cutting holesaw in an electricdrill, but a technique describedbelow in the section on cuttinginstrument head apertures may alsobe employed here. Be sure you areclear of bulkheads, tanks and otherobstructions on the blind side.Measure twice and cut once. Drill asmall pilot hole (easily repairable)to be sure, before committing your-self with the holesaw. Better yet, ifthe inside is accessible, drill fromthe inside out.

Log impellers don't mind ifthey're at an angle but sound trans-ducers must be mounted on a per-fectly flat part of the hull bottom or

ELECTRONICSINSTALLING LOGS AND DEPTH SOUNDERS

Follow these easy steps to worry-free installations.

Figure 1

Cutting a hole for a thru-hull can be anunnerving proposition.

An access plateunder a bunk orsettee.

An angle block for mounting on anangled surface

LESL

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PBEL

L

Transducer

SplitFairing

Block

Figure 2


in the bulkhead or dash and some-times in the liner behind it.

If your instrument head is circu-lar and you have a holesaw avail-able to fit, that's the way to go, butif the aperture required is morethan about 7.6cm (3") in diameter,some alternative cutting techniquemust be employed. One way is tofabricate a simple jig that willallow you to cut an accurate circlewith an electric drill.

Obtain a piece of 2.54cm (1")metal bar stock slightly longer thanthe radius of the proposed hole.Drill a shallow dimple centeredclose to one end of your bar stock,then use a compass to mark thedesired radius on the bar.Now drill two 6mm (1/4")holes separated by .4mm(1/64") or less, side byside inside the radius arcand drill out the originaldimple to 6mm (1/4") aswell (Figure 4). The twoclosely spaced holes mustbe at exactly the sameradius from the center (dim-ple) hole.

Stick duct tape to theback of your jig to preventscratches on gelcoat orpaint. Mark the hole locationon the bulkhead or dashwith the compass and drilla 6mm (1/4") hole deadcenter. Mount the jig snugbut not tight with a 6mm (1/4")bolt through the single hole end.Drill a 6mm (1/4") hole in thepanel through one of the closelyspaced holes. Grind one side offthe head of another 6mm (1/4")bolt to use as a pilot anchor, andinsert it in this hole. Now drillthrough the radius hole. Removethe bolt/pilot, rotate the jig slightly,and reinsert the bolt in the hole youjust drilled. Continue "walking" thejig around the hole radius until youreturn to the starting point. Removethe jig and use a small file toremove the material from between

the drilled holes. You should have anear perfect circular hole.

A faster but less neat and pre-cise method is to drill a pilot holethen cut around the marked circlewith a sabersaw with a metal-cut-ting blade. Affix masking tape tothe cut line on both sides to preventchipping and to the saw's bottomplate to prevent scratches. Thismode is of course necessary if yourinstrument head is rectangular orsquare. In this case, you'll need toradius the corners with a drill bit orholesaw to prevent stress cracks inthe fiberglass.

Install the instrument head inthe bulkhead or dash following the

manufacturer's instructions. Be sureto seal the cutout with sealant. Forbulkhead mounts, you may have tocut a hole in the cabin liner foraccess to the back of the instru-ment.

If there is sufficient spacebetween the cabin liner and outerbulkhead to accommodate theinstrument head body, you canmake an access panel similar to theone described in Figure 1 tocover the access aperture. Whereinstrument backs protrude throughthe liner or there is no liner, fabri-cate a box-like cover [see DIY

shimmed to a vertical, plumb atti-tude with angled fairing blocksinside and outside the hull (Figure2). Use a carpenter's bevel and abubble level (Figure 3) to transferthe hull angle to the block, then drillthe transducer stem hole throughthe block (preferably with a drillpress) before making the angledcut. With care you can cut theblock with a handsaw, but it's mucheasier to do on the tilt table of aband saw. The outer block shouldbe streamlined to match or improveon the transducer's shape.

Securely mount the transduceror impeller unit, bedding it with agenerous amount of polysulfide orpolyurethane (non-removable)sealant. Route the cable or wire tothe instrument head location, care-fully avoiding kinks and points ofchafe. Keep depth sounder cableswell away from other wires to pre-vent false readouts. Use nyloncable ties where necessary. Neverattempt to shorten a sounder trans-ducer cable. Coil any excess lengthand secure it with cable ties in aprotected location.

Usually you will want to mountthe instrument head on a forwardbulkhead in the cockpit or the steer-ing station dashboard. This willinvolve cutting another hole or two

Figure 3

How to measure for the appropriateangle.

A jig for cutting round holes to mount an instru-ment head.

Figure 4

FairingBlock

Carpenter’sBevel

Hull

BubbleLevel

Grind oneside off bolt

head to makelocating pin

1/64”

Circle Radius

Bar Stock Jig

AngledCut


1998-#2 issue, "GoodBoatkeeping" column — Ed] or useinexpensive plastic mixing bowlsfor individual covers (not pretty, butnovel). Connect light and powersupply leads to your breaker orfuse panel following manufacturer'sinstructions, test for proper opera-tion and the job is finished.

About the author: Charles Moore is aNova Scotia-based freelance writer andeditor. His articles, features, and syndicat-ed columns have appeared in more than40 publications in Canada, U.S., Europe,and Australia.

MOUNTINGTRANSDUCERSINSIDEIt's technically possible to mountyour depth sounder transducerinside of uncored fiberglass hullsin a tube or chamber filled withnon-toxic antifreeze (water onlyin southern climes), castor oil oreven in a blob of siliconesealant. Such installations willavoid the dreaded hole cuttingand reduce drag, especially onhigh-speed powerboats, butdon't expect top performancefrom your sounder, especially indeep water.

Inside transducers won'twork with cored hulls or evensolid fiberglass ones if air bub-bles or voids are present in thelayup. You'll have to locally cutaway the core and inner lami-nate. This may compromise thestructural integrity of the hull, sodon't do this without consultinga surveyor or boatyard.Antifouling on the outside of thehull may also negatively affectthe instrument's accuracy. Onthe plus side, a transducermounted in the bilge is easilyaccessible for repair or replace-ment.


MountingConsiderationsInstalling flexible engine mounts in aboat with an inboard drive and arigid connection to the drive shaftwhich previously had the enginemounted directly to the engine bedrails or used solid adjustable mounts(i.e. sailboats) can create severalproblems. Rubberengine mountsallow the engine

to moveslightly toreduce theamount of vibration transmitted to thehull, but by doing so they allow theengine drive shaft to become mis-aligned and pivot in its bearings,which can cause increased shaftvibration and rapid bearing wear. Inthe case of a stern tube "driplessseal" packing gland, increasedmovement can allow the seal tomove out of alignment causing it toleak. It may be necessary to modifythe shaft by installing a flexible cou-

pling or extra support bearings andto cut a section out of the enginemount area to allow space to fit theengine mounts and still retain pro-peller-shaft-to-engine alignment. Forthose reasons it's very important thatthe drive system be evaluated care-fully before rubber engine mountsare installed in boats that were origi-nally built without flexible enginemounts. You'll need to consult theengine and mount manufacturers.

Stern drive systems are not asaffected by engine movementbecause they have a flexible cou-pling between the engine and out-board drive. Engines are usually fit-ted with engine mounts at the factoryand different mounts can be substitut-ed for the original mounts as long asthe engine can be aligned properly.

Most stern drive instal-lations mount the

engine to the hullat the front of the

engine, and tothe transom atthe rear of theengine. Both the

engine and boat manu-facturer should be consulted before

changing to a different style ofmount.

Sizing Guidelines Since the engine mounts (solid orflexible) are the only points at whichthe engine is connected to the hull, itfollows that they must not only han-dle engine vibration, but also trans-mit engine torque (or twist) and pro-pel forward (or reverse) thrust to thehull. They also must handle the slight"up angle" thrust of the propellershaft, and keep the engine properlyaligned when the boat is beingtossed about in rough seas. Anengine broken loose from its mounts

ENGINE••• — — — •••

TROUBLESHOOTING

When selected and installed correctly, flexibleengine mounts can greatly reduce vibrationfrom an engine that is "hard" mounted. Here'swhat you need to know about selection, sizingand installing the proper engine mounts.

NOISE AND VIBRATION CONTROL

By Robert Hess

Engines are the usual cause of vibra-tion because they are not only impos-sible to balance perfectly, they con-tain rotating parts, shake, jump andvibrate as their pistons move up anddown with the force of combustion.Before you assume the vibration iscaused by the engine — and thesolution is different engine mounts —the complete drive train should bechecked for vibration caused by anout-of-balance propeller or propellershaft, a loose, worn or misalignedcutlass bearing, and a loose or mis-aligned cutlass bearing support strut.Other causes of vibration couldinclude a misaligned engine ortransmission, an out-of-balanceengine or transmission shaft orflywheel, a loose engine ortransmission component,loose engine mounts, or incor-rect or damaged engine mounts.

Since it is impossible to stopengine vibration completely, the onlyway to prevent it from being transmit-ted to the hull structure is by mount-ing the engine so that it is insulatedfrom the hull. This allows the engineto flex without transmitting the move-ment. This usually involves fitting rub-ber-in-sheer or hydraulic flexibleengine mounts, and in some casesinstalling a flexible propeller shaftcoupling to prevent misalignment ofthe propeller shaft. [A discussion offlexible couplings will appear in DIYSpring '99 issue — Ed.]


could give modern meaning to the old nautical metaphor,"a loose cannon."

The flexible engine mount material must be verystrong, with a fail-safe feature to prevent complete

ENGINE••• — — — •••

TROUBLESHOOTING

NOISE-PROOFINGYOUR BOATNoise on a boat comes from many sources. The prima-ry source is airborne noise transmitted by the airthroughout the cabin, cockpit, and deck. It's generatedby the engine, primarily the exhaust system, drive trainor hull structure. Mechanical noise from the engine ordrive-train is usually a warning sign that a componentis wearing out quickly, or has already worn to thepoint that it is damaged, and so the noise can actuallybe useful in alerting the operator to an impending fail-ure. Carrying out the repair will have the side-benefitof eliminating the noise, so engine exhaust systemrepair, engine valve train adjustment, engine and trans-mission rebuild (including setting gear backlash tospecification), propeller shaft packing gland bearingreplacement, engine air intake repair, and othermechanical repairs should be done before attemptingto reduce or eliminate the noise by other means.Transmission friction plate rattle that occurs even intransmissions that are in good mechanical conditioncan sometimes be eliminated by the installation of atransmission "damper" drive plate. Once the engineand drive train are repaired or adjusted to specifica-tion and lubricated properly, the next step in reducingairborne noise is to fit a more efficient exhaust mufflersystem. [A complete review of exhaust systems willappear in the DIY 1998-#4 issue — Ed.]

If the exhaust is already quiet, or a more effectivesystem has been installed, and there is still a require-ment to reduce airborne noise further, then the insula-tion of the engine compartment [see DIY Winter 1996-#4 issue — Ed.] and exhaust system should be consid-ered.

There are two types of insulation that can be fittedto insulate the engine compartment: sound absorbingwhich reduces noise but not vibration, and sounddeadening which incorporates an anti-reverberationplate in the insulation that reduces noise and vibration.Exhaust components can be insulated to reduce noise(and heat) by wrapping the exhaust pipe and muffler


separation. A mount failure while the boat is under fullpower could cause the engine to rotate instead of thepropeller. The rubber material used in the mount mustalso be strong enough to hold its shape over a long peri-od of time. A gradual change in dimension as the mountcompresses could allow the engine to slowly move out ofalignment with the propeller shaft.

Specifications for engine mounts should include thecorrect size and load rating, and the following charac-

with heat-resistant, sound-insulating tape, usually ametal foil-covered fibreglass wrap. Insulation should befire resistant and designed to prevent the absorption ofoil and inflammable fumes.

Waterborne noise, generated by underwater com-ponents, radiates through the hull into the interior of theboat. The most common source of waterborne noise ispropeller cavitation, usually caused by incorrect pro-peller size or pitch, which not only generates water-borne noise but causes the engine speed (and exhaustnoise) to change rapidly.

Not only can noise on a boat be airborne andwaterborne, but it also can be structure-borne (carriedby the boat material itself) and in some cases is actual-ly noise generated by the harmonic vibration of the hullwith water, engine, or propeller shaft related vibration.Structure-borne noise and vibration can be producedby the action of water or a boat component againstthe hull itself. Water rushing by the sides and bottom ofthe hull can create structure-borne noise, and waterforced against the rear of the hull by the propeller cancreate a drumming noise if the hull is not properly rein-forced in this area. A whine or rattle from loose rudderbearings, a worn rudder control rod pivot, loose pro-peller, or worn cutlass bearing can be transmitted tothe hull too. Since the engine and propeller shaftassembly is mounted at only a few points (usually theengine mounts, the stern tube and the rear strut cutlassbearing), any vibration caused by a loose, bent, unbal-anced or misaligned condition in any of the drive traincomponents will be transmitted to the hull at thosepoints.

In some cases it may be possible to reduce har-monic vibration of the hull and components by alteringthe drive ratio or propeller specification to change theengine cruising rpm, and thus change the engine vibra-tion frequency, or by altering the mass of the hull byaltering the ballast or fuel and/or water tank capacity.In most cases, however, it will be much simpler (andcheaper) to reduce engine vibration transmitted to thehull by installing flexible engine mounts.— Robert Hess


teristics: zinc-plated steel or alumini-um shell (some mounts may also usesynthetic materials); electrically passi-vated; oil shield to protect rubber asthe natural rubber used in somemounts is damaged by engine oil;adjustable height; saltwater corro-sion protection; and an operatingtemperature range of -30°C to 30°C(-22°F to 86°F). Certain mounts alsohave slotted holes to assist in align-ment and a fail-safe design, such asa metal guard or chain to holdmounts together or the engine inplace in case of mount failure.

When ordering your enginemounts, suppliers will need to knowthe engine model and horsepower,shafting arrangement, spacing of theengine bearers both vertically and

horizontally, clearance between thehull and the mounts, number ofengine mounting points, transmissionreduction ratio and maximum boatspeed or engine rpm. Some manu-facturers include engine mount for-mulae in their catalogs to allow youto select the correct size of mountwhen ordering.

Flexible engine mounts are avail-able from many different manufactur-ers, however, commonly usedmarine engine mounts are made by

Barry Controls, Bushings, GlobeRubber Works, R&D Marine,Soundown and Vetus. Some enginemanufacturers also offer mounts forspecific engines. Prices start atUS$24 up to US$150. Easy toinstall, a wide range of sizes fitsmost every engine.

InstallationRequirementsOn a retrofit installation, flexiblemounts usually match the original

ENGINE••• — — — •••

TROUBLESHOOTING

Correct mounting of flexible mount.

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footprint without alteration. Some boats, however, mayrequire you to modify or reinforce the bearers and thehull (foundation).

Bearers that lack lateral (sideways) stiffness, whichis typically the least-stiff direction of the foundation, mustbe reinforced with gussets made of fiberglass or woodlaminate. Flexible mounts need higher clearancebetween the mount and the foundation than the rigidtype, which shouldn't be a concern on boats with theold-style mounts with tall studs. Otherwise, you'll need

to raise the bearingsusing wood spacers andreinforce with layers offiberglass cloth andresin. Some atypicalinstallations may requireremoval of the old bear-ings and the building ofnew ones.

Flexible enginemounts should beinstalled so that eachmount takes a propor-tional share of theengine weight and load,so that the engine isproperly aligned withthe propeller shaft. It'simportant that theengine sits low on themount's threaded stud toprevent breakage. Ininstallations where theengine is aligned higheron the studs, any lateral

force acts as a lever arm, increasing the bending forceand over time, fatigues the studs.

To ensure the engine stays properly aligned afterinstallation, the new mounts should be fitted to theengine for at least 48 hours before final alignment ofthe engine with the propeller shaft. This will allow therubber to compress to its working dimensions. Thealignment should be checked again once the boat hasundergone sea trials. When aligning the engine withthe propeller shaft flange, support the shaft to eliminate"shaft droop" caused by the weight of the shaft, andadjust the engine mounts until the engine and shaftflanges meet at the same angle and height. Check theflange alignment by using a feeler gauge to verify thatthe gap between the flanges is even.

About the author: Robert Hess has a background in automotiveand marine mechanics and in 1994 he restored Water Music,a 7.5m (25') Hughes that he cruises on the coastal waters ofCanada's West Coast.

On a retrofit installation,flexible mounts usually matchthe original footprint withoutalteration but bearers mayneed reinforcing.The enginemust sit low on the mount'sthreaded stud to preventbreakage.

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up also accelerate engine wear.Letting an engine warm up at aslow idle does not eliminate enginewear. Such un-oiled “dry” startsoccur in very cold or very hotweather, after an oil change or fol-lowing prolonged periods of non-use. Your engine may last a lotlonger if all moving parts are prelu-bricated before start-up.

Hailed as “the greatest thingsince sliced bread” by MarineBusiness Journal, the Pre-Luber fromEngine Lubrication Systems mini-mizes dry-start wear on engine com-ponents each time the engine starts.Originally engineered in 1988 forcars, the system has gone throughvarious generations and the newestmarine version has eliminated pres-sure problems experienced by earli-er models.

Operation is quite simple. Anelectric pump-driven system wired tothe engine’s existing ignition lubri-cates and pressurizes the enginewith oil prior to cranking. Turningthe ignition key to the “on” positionsends a signal to the Pre-Luber tostart. It pulls oil up from the oil paninto the engine and pumps oilthrough the engine following thesame oil channels as the engine oil

WEAR-FREECOLD ENGINESTARTSA prelubrication oilsystem extendsengine life and eliminates prematurefailure of engine components due tolack of lubrication onstart-up. Installation isquick and easy.

By Jan MundyYou may not realize it, but simplystarting your engine causes signifi-cant wear. The grinding and knock-ing sounds a cold engine brieflymakes upon startup is engine wearoccurring. In fact, as high as 95% ofengine wear occurs in the first 10seconds after startup before oil haspressurized and coated bearingsand other critical parts.

When a hot engine isturned off, it begins to cooland lubricating fluid dripsinto the oil pan. The longerthe engine sits, the thickerthe cooling lubricantbecomes and the more dif-ficult it is to pump the oil.For a few seconds after acold startup, no oil pres-sure is present. Running atfast idle, the engine waitsfor oil to coat the bearings,cams, rods and pistons.This causes cold start-upengine wear. Should theengine stall, the wearprocess is repeated.Abrasive metal particlesthat are rubbed off at start-

ENGINE••• — — — •••

TROUBLESHOOTING


pump. For up to 60 seconds itbathes friction-prone engine surfaceswith oil. Engine oil is pressurized upto 55 psi before turning the key toengage the starter and starting theengine. Pre-Luber then shuts off andthe oil pump takes over. As the sys-tem isn’t wired to the starter motor,in an emergency situation or whenyou’re impatient, you can turn thekey to the “start” position and driveaway without waiting for the prelu-brication cycle.

Weighing less than 4.5kg(10lb), the Pre-Luber’s compact andlightweight pump is a patented ringand rotor mechanical unit capable ofpumping up to 140W oil. It’s com-patible with all natural and syntheticengine oils and additives. A built-incheck valve prevents oil back flow-ing into the pump, causing a loss ofpressure. A brass mesh filter screenfilters the oil; another filter can beadded to the outlet line if desired.Power draw is four to 26 ampsdepending on engine temperature.

Quick five-minute oil changesare possible with an optional discon-nect coupling without having toloosen the drain plug. Just put thehose end into a container, turn theignition key to “on” and pump out

The Pre-Luber system eliminatescold-start wear by delivering oil toengine parts prior to cranking.


to the oil filter. The optional quick-disconnect coupling (US$20) goeson this hose for quick oil changing.

Route hoses so they run freely andsecure to bulkheads with screwed-on cable ties.

Now mount the control modulein the engine compartment and con-nect the four color-coded wires.Hookup is easy with the wiring har-

ness: attach the red and yellowjoined on the male plug end of theharness to the female plug end on

the Pre-Luber, run theseparate red wire to thebattery and black wireto a ground, then con-nect one end of theorange wire to the paneland the other to a hotlead when ignition key isin “accessory” or “on”position.

With replacementengines costing thou-sands of dollars, a pre-lubrication oil system is arelative minor outlay thatextends engine life and

delivers wear-free starts. For further information contact

Engine Lubrication Systems, 64State Rd., Paoli, PA 19301; Tel:800/647-7383 or 610/647-2417, Fax: 610/644-0877, Email:[email protected].

dirty oil without having to loosen thedrain plug. Upon startup, the Pre-Luber automatically fills oil filters.

Pre-Luber comes in three12-volt versions to fit most gasand diesel engines: Standard(US$498), Heavy Duty(US$545) for 454 cu. in. gasand 7.2L diesel engines, andTurbo; the 24-volt systemretails for US$649. With aturbo-charged diesel engine,the turbo bearing is the lastcritical part to receive oil. ThePre-Turboluber (US$599)incorporates a cool-downcycle to lubricate the engineand prevent heat “spikes”after shutdown. With theengine off, the pump continues torun oil through the engine for 30seconds to five minutes, the recom-mended minimum time being threeminutes. This provides engine andoil cooling, reduces condensationand engine warping, cools turbobearings and apparently doubles thelife of the turbo charger.

InstallationInstallation is relatively easy with afew basic hand tools and takesabout two hours. The standardready-to-install kit includes a pump,electronic control module, 1.8m (6’)wire harness, brass fittings, 2.7m(9’) of hose, drain plug, grommets,mounting hardware and instruc-tions. Heavy Duty and Turbo kits donot include hoses, as these systemsusually require larger diameterhoses to carry sufficient oil capacityto prelubricate the engine.

Mount the pump on a bulkheadin the engine compartment wellwithin reach of the hose and wiringconnections. Connect one end ofthe hose to the engine oil drainplug, extend it to the pump inlet fit-ting, allowing some slack, then slipit over the fitting. Attach the secondlength of hose to the pump outletand connect the other end to eitherthe oil-sending unit on the engine or

Ready-to-install kit includes all hardware and the job takesabout two hours using basic hand tools.


Story and photos by Craig E.Anderson

ur "new" boat, a 1972 6.6m(22') Westerly Warwickdesigned by Laurent Giles, was

fundamentally sound when pur-chased in August 1995 but in needof some refurbishment. Among thethings needing attention was thedeck; the old gray nonskid wasshowing the effects of age andweather. Repainting was clearly theeasiest solution, but we opted toresurface the nonskid portion of thedeck with a material overlay andhave not been disappointed withthe results.

Made of a mixture of cork, rub-ber or polyurethane, overlays give along-lasting, maintenance-free coat-ing with superb nonskid qualities,especially when wet, and protectdeck surfaces from dings or chaf-ing. We selected Treadmaster M, araised, diamond-patterned corkpolymer nonskid material. The prod-

uct is 33mm (1/8") thick, sold insheets that measure 1.2m (47.5") x.90m (35.5"), and available ineither white sand, gray or teak col-ors. Although relatively expensive,we were able to purchase the foursheets we needed at significant sav-ings through a mail-order marinecatalog. We also obtained the two-part epoxy marine adhesivedesigned for use with Treadmaster.Our total material costs came toabout US$300.

The process of preparation andapplication was time consumingand somewhat tedious. The jobtook two of us about 15 hours notincluding drying time, althoughrain, cold weather and otherresponsibilities extended the actualproject time. The epoxy adhesivemust be applied at temperaturesabove 15.5°C (60°F) to obtain thedesired adhesion. As with paintingor fiberglass repair, preparation isvery important and must be donecarefully.

We began with a thoroughcleaning of the deck surface withTSP (trisodium phosphate) andwater followed by a boat cleaneruntil accumulated dirt and grimewere removed. This was followedby a sanding of the old nonskid sur-face with 180-grit paper. The sand-ing proved somewhat problematic— the old nonskid surface had arubber-like quality to it that quicklyclogged up the sandpaper. Aftergiving it our best effort, we thor-oughly brushed clean the surface.

We washed it again with TSP andwater, and, after drying, wiped itdown with a tack cloth.

Making the patterns to use forcutting the nonskid was the nextstep. We used newspaper, althougha slightly heavier brown Kraft paperor butcher paper might have been

better. Tracing the outline of the oldnonskid was relatively easy since itwas still slightly raised from the restof the deck. Keeping the paper sta-tionary while tracing the outline iscrucial. A good method is to cut outone or two 7.6cm to 10.1cm (3" to4") holes in the pattern paper. Thisenables you to affix the paper to thedeck with masking tape without hav-ing to tape the edges. We did notdiscover this suggestion until the job

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Resurfacing worn nonskid with glued-on synthetic material is a goodalternative to painting and offers exceptional traction. Here's how.

Deck-orating AnOld Cruiser

The old nonskid was showing the effectsof 25 years of age and weather.

O

Making accurate patterns is exactingwork and any misalignment will multi-ply once the fabric is glued in place.


was completed, but we think it is a capital idea.After delineating the patterns, we cut them out and

laid them on the deck to be sure they were correct. It'simportant to mark the patterns "front" and "back," and"forward" and "aft" to prevent confusion later. Separatepatterns must be made for each section of deck to becovered. You cannot assume that each side mirrors theother and that simply reversing a pattern from port tostarboard sides will work. We found it does not.

Once our patterns were cut and dry-fit, we tapedthem to the wrong side of the nonskid material, andcarefully cutthe materialwith sharpscissors orutility knife.Although themanufactur-er does notadvisebutting uptwo piecesof the non-skid materi-al, we feltwe had to inseveralplaces giventhe configurations of the deck and previous nonskidareas. We were meticulous, however, in making surethat where two pieces of Treadmaster met, the diamondpattern was matched up perfectly. As the pieces werecut, we laid them out on the deck to insure that we hada proper fit.

The final step was to fasten the material to the deckusing the two-part epoxy glue. After a vacuuming and

Lay the nonskid in place then apply moder-ate pressure to squeeze out air bubbles andexcess glue.

A specially formulated two-part epoxy isapplied to the deck and the nonskid material.

The final result has been verysatisfying. Not only has the appear-ance of our boat been aestheticallyenhanced by the new teak-colorednonskid, we have a surface thatgives exceptional traction. Movingabout on the deck of a pocket cruis-er can be a challenge in heavy seasand rough weather, and it's reassur-ing now to have a superior nonskid.If there is a downside, it is that this

final dusting of the deck with tackcloth, we were ready to begin.Since the pot life of the epoxy wasonly about 30 minutes, we laid onlya section or two of the nonskid at atime. The epoxy was spread with anapplicator (inexpensive plastic puttyknives) on both the deck surface andthe backside of the nonskid, beingcareful to coat both thoroughly. Thenonskid was then placed on thedeck, adjusted until correctly posi-tioned (it moves easily before theepoxy sets), and then pressed downfirmly to eliminate any air pockets. Arubber roller might be helpful in this,although we did not find one neces-sary. Excess epoxy that squeezes outthe sides must be wiped away witha rag or will leave a stain on thefiberglass.

32

material is a little hard on bareknees or feet, but that was somethingwe knew before we began. It's asmall tradeoff in our opinion, for theimproved appearance and security.

About the author: Craig E.Andersonresides in Chicago, Ill., but keepsShorebird II of Stonington in Escanaba,Mich., his port of entry to the sailingwaters and wonders of Green Bay andnorthern Lake Michigan.

▼ Deck overlays addweight, about .22kg (.5lb) persquare foot.

▼ Have a variety of circular andoval shapes at hand for produc-ing fair corners and anglesaround hardware.

▼ Use wood or fiberglass bat-tens, held in position withweights, for marking long deckcurves.

▼ Make templates as large aspossible without becomingunmanageable.

▼ Leave at least a 3.8cm (1-1/2") gap between patterns andall deck hardware for waterdrainage.

▼ Using a felt marker, transferthe template outline to the deck,identify the alignment of eachpiece and number it and thedeck to simplify final fitting.Transfer all markings to thewrong side of nonskid materialafter cutting.

▼ Remove any spilled glue fromthe deck or fabric with solventbefore it hardens.

▼ Always wear protective cloth-ing and use a respirator whensanding fiberglass.

▼ When working with epoxyglues, protect hands with dispos-able gloves or barrier cream, oruse both.

TIPSDeck-orating AnOld Cruiser

Working With Deck Overlays

Teak-colored nonskid looks attractive,protects the fiberglass deck and pro-vides better-than-new traction.

PRESSURE-WATER SYSTEMinstal l ing a


You need not buy anew, expensive boat toenjoy some comfortsof home. Follow theseeasy instructions forinstalling a pressure-water system then justturn a tap and waterflows. What could bebetter!

Story and photos by David & Zora Aiken

hen we bought our boat in1978, it was remarkably wellequipped for its day. It boast-

ed an electric water heater, a pres-sure water system, an engine-drivengenerator (in addition to the ordi-nary alternator) and two electricheads. Since our philosophy at thetime was a keep-it-simple minimal-ism, out came all of the above. Idon't recall the fate of the waterheater or pump, but one head

remained on the dock in Nassau(with permission from the dockowner), the other became a planterin a Florida boatyard and the gen-erator found new practical use in itsrecycled life as the basis for a moor-ing in a Bahamas harbor.

Now, 20 years later and set-tling into a different kind of live-aboard lifestyle, the simple life hasless appeal. The idea of the easylife is taking on new significanceand so, after years of a hand pumpin the galley and a foot pump in thehead, our classic boat is nowequipped with a very modern pres-sure-water system.

Initially, plumbing might seem tobe one of those jobs requiring aknowledgeable outside person, butas more manufacturers havebecome attuned to the "I'd-rather-do-it-myself" thinking, the installation ofsuch a system fits in the category ofthe average boat owner's capabili-ty.

All boat projects should beplanned carefully, to avoid do-oversand to make sure everything you'llneed is on board. With this project,the planning stage will establish theshortest routes for hoses to followand the most centrally located placefor the pump, assuming it may beserving more than one faucet.

The system we installed is aFLOJET (US$294.55) — an all-in-one pump (Quad diaphragm unit)and accumulator tank with a built-inpressure switch and a separate inletstrainer. Compact and lightweight, itfits in a locker and weighs just 4kg(8.8lb). Once installed, the pumppulls water from the boat's watertank and sends it to the accumulator

tank. With the accumulator tank, thepump doesn't run constantly when-ever a faucet is turned on. The tankretains enough pressure to allow thewater to flow for a short time with-out the pump working. When pres-sure in the accumulator tank dropsto a certain level, the pump turns on

to refill the water and restore thepressure in the tank. FLOJET's sys-tem also includes a strainer installedbetween the water tank and thepump. This prevents any sedimentthat may be in the water tank fromreaching the pump and fouling thevalves.

Location, Location Of course, the closer the pump canbe to the faucet(s) and the shorterthe hoses, the simpler your plumb-ing maze will be. Our boat had agood start: the center cockpit isimmediately aft of both the galleyand the head. The pump could fitneatly in one of two huge seat lock-ers or be mounted in the engine

Tools &Materials

Drill & bitsAssorted screw

driversSharp utility knifeFLOJET model 2840Water Pressure

SystemHose: 19m (3/4")

inlet, 12mm(1/2") outlet

All-stainless hose clamps

W

FLOJET model 2840 Water PressureSystem mounted on an engine roombulkhead. Note strainer in foreground.

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room beneath. The engine roomallowed easiest access and a bulk-head was vacant. The FLOJET unitcan be either deck-mounted or bulk-head-mounted to a solid surface. Ifbulkhead mounted, the pump headshould be down or lower than themotor. Once installed, the strainerwould be visible and easy to clean.

Installation Gathering tools for this job is espe-cially easy: all that's needed are adrill and bits, screwdriver and asharp knife to cut hoses.

First, assemble all the parts.Besides the unit itself, have handy allneeded hose lengths, a good supplyof all-stainless hose clamps andwhatever adapters you may need toconnect faucet to hoses. Be sure touse reinforced hose made for high-pressure applications. And, ofcourse, you'll need the faucets(s).The standard household kitchenfaucet might be too big for a boat

sink as it arches up too high. Barsink or laundry tub faucets are bet-ter, having a lower arch or none atall (faucet extends almost straight outover sink).

Before mounting the accumula-tor in position, attach hoses to thepump: the inlet hose connects to thewater tank and the outlet hose goesto a faucet(s). Screw the pump unitinto its chosen place with the sup-plied four rubber mounting feet, thenrun the hoses. Eventually, you'llinclude all the required tee-fittingsthat will lead cold water to eachfaucet (galley, head sink and show-er) plus one hose into the waterheater and another out of the heaterand directed to each hot-waterfaucet (Figure 1). But start with onefaucet; ours was the galley sink.Securely fasten the strainer to a bulk-head, cut the water supply line fromthe tank and connect the ends ontothe strainer. Clamp all hose connec-tions securely.

TROUBLESHOOTING:REDUCE PLUMBINGSYSTEM NOISEBy Chris Beh

Positive displacement pump"noise" can be attributed to manyfactors. The way the pump oper-ates lends itself to some noise,inherent in these devices, but youcan reduce the amount of noisetransmitted to the boat by carefullyfollowing a few installation details.

Be sure to mount the pump ona solid surface with solid supportsunderneath. If you can knock onthe mounting surface and it soundslike a drum, vibrations are goingto travel through it. Use the manu-facturer's supplied rubber feet tomount the pump and don't over-tighten. To reduce vibration, use atleast 45.7cm (18") of high-pres-sure flexible tubing between thepump and "hard" plumbing bothon the inlet and outlet fittings.Elbow fittings cause turbulent flowand back pressure on the pump,increasing noise levels, particularlyif placed within the first 61cm(24") of the pump outlet. Better toreplace elbows with high-pressureflexible tubing.

Another source of plumbingnoise is vibration from piping andfittings where they pass throughbulkheads and behind drawersand shower walls.

To check for noise, grab thepiping on either side of the pump.Does the noise and vibration leveldecrease while you hold the pip-ing? Turn on the tap(s) one at atime and check which one(s) cre-ates excessive noise or vibration.Check the strainers. Cloggedstrainers, as well as air leaks, canmake a pump labor and causenoise.

About the author: Chris Beh is an appli-cations engineer for SHURflo in SantaAna, Calif.


WiringAs with any wiring project, remem-ber to disconnect the power beforeyou start. This is a very basic job:take the negative (black) and posi-tive (red) wires coming off thepump and connect them to theappropriate distribution panel.Splice an in-line fuse into the posi-tive wire. Check pump specs forthe recommended fuse size. FLOJETmodels are available for 12-, 24-and 32-volt DC systems, and 115-volt AC that plugs directly into anAC outlet.

The tank should be pressurizedbefore starting the pump. Use abicycle tire pump to pump up thepressure. Follow manufacturer'sinstructions and check the pressureafter filling and before starting thepump with a pressure gauge. Likea bike tire, pressure can bereduced by pressing the center pinof the valve.

Start Up See that the water tank is at least1/4 full. Open the faucet(s) topurge air from the system. Turn thepower on so the pump will start.When air is out of the system,about a minute or so, close thetap(s). The pump will pressurize thetank, and then turn off and on auto-

matically as required to maintainthe pressure in the system.

You could add another elementto the system: a water filter, forgood drinking water. If you're dock-side on a relatively permanentbasis, you can connect directly tocity water supply, but if you choose

to do so, installa regulator toprotect thepump from thehigh waterpressures (see"Now That YouHave PressureWater..." onpage 36).

Next onour do-to list isto install awater heater,shower andsump. [Forstep-by-stepinstructions to

install a water heater see DIY1997-#1 issue, page 20 — Ed.]

About the authors: David and Zora Aikenare the authors of Good Boatkeeping andGood Cruising published by InternationalMarine.The Aikens currently live aboard a1963 10.5m (35') Chris-Craft sloop,Atelier, berthed in Grasonville, Maryland.

1

Cross-section view showscomponents installed in apressure-water system.

Shower Head

Water Heater

Head FaucetGalley Faucet

Hot Water

Cold Water

Water TankStrainer

FLOJET (Mounted on Bulkhead)

Water Tank

36

NOW THAT YOU HAVE PRESSURE WATER...For a few dollars and an afternoon's labor, you can easilybypass the filling of tanks andconnect a pressure water systemto dockside water.

Story and illustrations by Ryc Rienks

The installation of a water pressure regulator, such asthe PAR Water Pressure Regulator made by Jabsco orSHURflo's 183 RV Regulator, allows unlimited waterflow with no compromise of the onboard pressure sys-tem. It connects to the pressurized cold-water line (afterthe electric pump or accumulator such as FLOJET’s2840), reducing high-water pressures up to 100 psidown to 35 psi. Two styles are available: an in-linemodel with brass garden hose fittings or the one Iinstalled, a white flush-mount model (either PAR 44410-1000 or SHURflo 183-029-08).

Installation is simple and inexpensive. You'll need aregulator device (about US$30), a length of hose longenough to tee into the plumbing downstream of thepump, a barbed-end tee-fitting, a straight hose connec-tor and four hose clamps sized to fit the hose. Toolsneeded are a drill, jigsaw or 7.6cm (3") holesaw, utili-ty knife to cut the hose, pilot bit to drill the mountingscrew holes, assorted screwdrivers, and polysulfide orsilicone sealant.

The installation involves cutting a 7.6cm- (3"-)diameter hole through the side of the cabin or perhapsin the cockpit. This is where the regulator mounts anddockside water joins with the pressure water system in

Regulator mounts flushagainst cabin or cockpitside in a 7.6cm- (3"-) diameter hole.

Line from here goes into pressurewater line afterthe electric pump.

Careful! Thispiece willunscrew

and affectthe water

flow.

Attachhosehere.



the boat. Should a leak occur in theonboard plumbing, your boat wouldbe at risk of sinking from freshwaterbeing piped in. This actually hap-pened on a boat in our marina andit was down nearly 61cm (2') beforeneighbors realized what was hap-pening.

Another interesting aspect ofthese regulators is the outside fittingwhere you attach the hose. Theprocess of attaching and removingthe hose can cause the assembly toloosen and rotate. At least it did onours. The result was a reduction in

water flow to the point of havingnothing at all coming out. I replacedthe supposedly defective unit andafter the replacement was installedon the boat, I attached a hose to theold one. Surprise! Unscrewing thecentral part of the regulator a fewturns, idle curiosity not genius atwork, I discovered I had restored theflow through the unit. Now I have aspare regulator.

About the author:A former musician, cus-tom knife-maker, teacher and writer, RycRienks lives with his wife aboard a Cascade36, currently berthed in San Francisco.

the boat. Select a location for theregulator that will keep the hoseout from under foot and allow anydrips to run over the side withouttoo much fuss. Before you cut thehole, make sure you have clearaccess from the inside, ensuringthe hose will run fair and be safefrom moving objects or other sys-tems that may create a conflict(engine exhaust heat, for example).

Check the fit of the regulator inthe hole to be sure it will fit flush.Next, drill pilot holes for the fourmounting screws but don't mountthe regulator yet. At this junctureyou may wish to go below and tapinto the water system. Turn off thepump switch and tape it in the offposition (or install an on/off pumpswitch).

Now, feed the new length ofhose through the cutout and verifyit reaches to the water hose, leav-ing some slack, and hooks up cor-rectly. If you have a water heater,you must be sure to connect to acold-water line. This is important.There is a device in the hot-watersystem that will not pass waterbackwards, thus an incorrect instal-lation will give you cold water outthe hot tap, and nothing out thecold.

Now cut the cold line, attachthe hose ends and the extra lengthof hose to the tee-fitting, and hoseclamp all three fittings.

Return topside to the hole inyour boat and add the hose con-nector to the back of the regulator.Slip the end of the new hose ontothe barb and hose clamp this con-nection.

Apply sealant liberally aroundthe regulator and screw it in place.Connect your hose between thedock fitting and the regulator andopen the faucet.

One cautionary note: cultivatethe habit of turning off the waterfaucet on the dock when you leave

Basic plumbing schematic showing hookup of water pressure regulator.

Hot Water

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By H.W. Roman Folk

ith all the controversy and dis-agreement in the marineindustry regarding osmotic

blistering of boat hulls, most ownersdon't know who to believe regardingthe seriousness of the problem. Is itjust cosmetic or are blisters possiblyan external sign of structural degra-dation of the laminate? Is it a prob-lem that is easily cured by grindingand patching or is it necessary toremove laminate layers and applynew material?

Fiberglass boats built of poly-ester resin (most production boats)may be affected by a problem, that

over a period of years, could com-pletely degrade the laminate andeventually cause a vessel to becomeunseaworthy. This problem is achemical process called resinhydrolyzation which is defined asthe breakdown of cured polyesterresin into its component raw materi-als owing to an interaction betweenpermeating water molecules andchemicals that are normally presentin polyester. Boats that arehauled for the winter andhave anywhere from four tosix months to dry out, tend tosuffer deep-rooted hydrolyza-tion to a much lesser extentthan their saltwater counter-parts that spend a full year inrelatively high temperaturewater. (Be especially overcau-tious if you're considering buy-ing a "bargain" boat fromsouthern climes.)

Research has found thatblisters can be caused by sev-eral agents acting singly or invarious combinations.Considering the extremerange of conditions in whichboats are used and the vari-ous laminate schedules, it's onlylogical that there isn't a singlecause for osmotic blisters. Sohow do you determine if theblisters found are a result ofdamaging chemical processes?

Sounding the HullThe blister tests described

below interpret what is occurringbeneath the gelcoat. These tests mea-sure the degree of acidity in the lami-nate, rather than a hull's moisturelevel. Readings from moisture metersmay not be a true indication of thehydrolyzated state of a hull and areonly truly accurate when interpretedby an experienced surveyor.

These tests require that the boatbe out of the water. Clean the bot-

The Litmus TestOsmotic blisters come in many disguises. Some arepurely cosmetic, others compromise the structuralintegrity of the hull. Whether your boat is with or withoutblisters or a barrier coat, use this test to survey yourboat, you might be surprised.

Testing Tools

Waterproof markerSafety gogglesDisposable glovesLitmus paperSharp scraperSmall grinderHot air gunDrill with 12mm- (1/2")

diameter countersink bit

Plastic head malletMagnifying glassDental probe or thin,

flexible blade knifeSmall paint brushFast-curing filler

W

Small, cosmetic blisters with a neutral pHvalue of 7 are easily patched.

Blisters found at the gelcoat-laminate inter-face are repaired by blasting or peeling of thegelcoat, drying, filling the voids and applyinga thick epoxy or vinylester barrier coat.

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tom of the boat and draw circles around all blisters witha waterproof marker. Do this the minute the boat ishauled — smaller, cosmetic blisters often disappear with-in a few hours. Larger, deep-rooted blisters that extendinto the laminate may be visible for many months afterthe boat comes out of the water.

While standing at the bow and then the stern, sightalong the hull where it's supported by a cradle or jackstands. Look for any deflection or hollows where the hullis in contact with the supports. On sailboats, look forany concavity on the bottom where the keel intersects thehull. Does it look as if the keel is pushing up into thehull? If you think there are hollows in the hull lines, getsomeone else to look at the boat to see if they see thesame problem. Then with your plastic mallet, tap thehull, using a steady rhythm (tap, tap, tap...) in the sus-pect areas. A solid laminate has a nice "ringing tone."A waterlogged core and damaged laminate beneath thesurface offers a much duller sound. Mark the areas of"dull" sounds with the waterproof marker. A "soft" bot-tom is not always caused by a damaged laminate.Another source is laminate fatiguing and microcrazingof the resin through years of abuse as found in manyolder powerboats.

The Acid TestBlisters may have several reasons for developing and thefollowing should help you determine what type or typesare on your boat. The size and location of the blistersare useful in determining the cause. However, a boatmay have adjacent blisters caused by different process-es. Additionally, the presence or lack of a barrier coatwill determine the nature of the blistering.

Small blisters, less than 6mm (1/4"), present in aband about 15cm- to 25.4cm- (6" to 10") wide at thewaterline, are often caused by algae or grass that growson the waterline. Parts of the organism dig into the bot-tom paint and gelcoat where they decompose andcause blisters to form. Another possibility is chemical pol-lutants floating on the surface and reacting with the bot-tom paint, often discoloring the paint. Pop a few of theseblisters and test the liquid content with your litmus paper.If neutral, a pH value of 7, or nearly so, means they arecosmetic and easily patched.

Interface blisters are those that form between the gel-coat and the first laminate layer. Uncured resin, excesshardener or air-filled voids allow water to concentrateand become an acidic solution, potentially dissolving thesurrounding resin (hydrolysis). Fluid in these nearlyalways has a pungent, rotten odor and may be underconsiderable pressure — wear goggles when breakingthe blisters. The fluid will be slightly acidic, somewherebetween 4 pH and 6 pH. Interface blister cavities usually

have a tiny hole in the bottom. When opened, a largercavity will be found. If the blister is of the interface type,this cavity will have smooth, solid sides. Always wearsafety goggles when working on blisters, as some whenpunctured can emit a high-pressure stream of liquid thatmay be extremely corrosive.

Close-up SurveyTo perform the next tests, the original laminate must beexamined. You will need to scrape or sand away suffi-cient antifouling paint to determine if the boat has beenpreviously barrier coated. Select two or three spots oneach side, just above the keel and under the cockpitshould be sufficient. A small grinder saves a bit of laborat this point.

If your boat has been barrier coated, spot patchedor is an older boat that has never shown blisters, don'tthink that all is hunky-dory. If your boat has no blisters, ateach spot where you have exposed the original lami-nate, drill a hole with the countersink bit — don't drill allthe way through. Examine each hole with the magnifyingglass. Can you see dark spots? Is liquid seeping out ofthe layers? Are layers separated? Is the resin soft orspongy? The pH readings on any such damaged areawill invariably be quite acidic. If no liquid seeps from thedrilled area within 30 minutes, the area around the hole

prime and paint.If you find that resin hydrolyza-

tion is taking place within the lami-nate of your hull, there is, arguably,not much you can do about curingthe problem. It's a costly repair ifcontracted out and a massive job forthe do-it-yourselfer, although, notunworkable. One of the oldest fiber-glass boats surveyed by Ontario-based surveyor Jonathan Watsonwas a powerboat built in 1952. Thebottom had gone "soft" due to acombination of fatiguing and a cer-tain amount of resin hydrolyzation.This boat was successfully rebuilt byremoving the damaged laminate lay-ers and relaminating. [See DIYSummer '96 issue, page 6, for howto relaminate a hull — Ed.]

Blister repair methods and mate-rials have greatly improved and canrepair all but the most severelyhydrolyzed hulls. Proper preparationof the hull — removing all damagedlaminate, thoroughly drying the hulland correct application of a barriercoating — is the key to a successful,long-lasting blister repair.

[For information on drying hulls,removing gelcoat and applying barri-er-coating materials, see DIY Fall '95and Fall '96 issues — Ed.]

About the author: Roman Folk has spentmore than 20 years as captain, navigator,crew and builder of power- and sailboats upto 45.6m (155') and has logged eighttransatlantic voyages.

If the hole is dry, wet your paintbrush with clean water. Gently heatthe area around the hole. If any liq-uid is seen seeping from the newlyexposed laminates, test with the lit-mus paper. Use the brush to push astrip into the hole, if necessary. Anacidic reaction at this point is not agood sign. The strong acid and sep-arated layers are positive signs thatthe laminate is being affected byresin hydrolyzation.

Caution: Be extremely cautiouswhen heating fiberglass. A paint-stripper-style gun releases enoughheat to cause heat damage to thelaminate even to the extent of caus-ing trapped solvent to flash off. Also,around 45°C (150°F) many coatingsstart to soften, so an epoxy orvinylester barrier coat may be dam-aged.

You've scraped away bottompaint and drilled holes in the hull,now what? First, take close-up pho-tos of the spots with the strongestacidic readings and also of the blis-ters found in any recently appliedbarrier coats. Photos shot at greaterdistance can be used to documentthe locations of your tests. Barriercoat problems should be discussedwith the applicators if you didn't per-form the work, and with the manu-facturer if you did it yourself. Fill allthe holes and areas where you usedthe grinder with a quick-dry epoxyor vinylester glue or filler (i.e. 3MMarine Premium Filler, Marine-Tex),

may be gently heated or leftovernight and examined the nextday. The change in temperature willnormally cause some liquid toappear on the surface.

Where there is a barrier coatwith visible blisters, open the blistersand test the fluid with litmus paper.Neutral (pH 7) or alkaline (pH 8 orhigher) readings are normally a signthat the barrier coat didn't cure prop-erly. Acidic readings are a sure signthat the laminate is affected by resinhydrolyzation and is being degrad-ed.

It's not unusual to find adjacentblisters with different pH readings. Ifthe blisters are scattered over the sur-face of the hull, open several ofthem. Use a Dremel, a variable-speed, hobby-type die grinder with a5mm (3/16") diameter round-tippedrotary file to open blister holes.Examine the surface in everyexposed blister cavity. Quite often atiny hole can be seen as with theinterface blisters. Use the countersinkbit to drill into the laminate at thispoint. Examine the sides of the holewith the magnifying glass while gen-tly probing with the dental probe.Are laminate layers easily pulledapart or are they already separated?


FAST REMOVAL OFBOTTOM PAINTS

Blasting antifoulingpaints away with non-toxic baking soda isan effective, non-abrasive alternative tosanding, grinding orapplying chemicalstrippers.

By Don Campbell

After completing exten-sive repairs on the delam-inated deck of our '74vintage Alberg 30, WhiteOpal, [see "Replacing aSoggy Deck," DIY 1998-#2 issue — Ed], our nextstep was to paint the bot-tom. After years ofadding layers of slough-ing antifouling paints, the

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was anything butsmooth, which surelyaffected the boat's per-formance. Friends hadwarned me that manu-al removal of bottompaints, by either sand-ing, grinding or scrap-ing, was an arduouschore, painstakinglyslow and not particu-larly healthy becauseof the amount of cop-per (cuprous oxide)contained in the mater-ial being removed. Iconsidered sand blast-ing which cuts throughthe paint fast but candamage the surfaceresulting in hours of fill-ing and fairing. In mysearch for an alterna-tive, I discovered theArmex AccustripSystem, a very passiveblasting method thatuses baking-soda crystals. It's a highly effective solu-tion to removing paint.

The process of applying baking soda is similar tosandblasting. A high-volume, high-pressure air com-pressor is used to propel baking soda (sodium bicar-bonate) from a metering system to a nozzle thatallows the operator to direct the flow to the surface tobe cleaned. It's the same baking soda used in thekitchen but the crystals are much larger, about 170microns in diameter I'm told, and while this is stillsmall, it's very adequate for the job at hand. (Amicron is 1/1,000 of a millimeter or about1/25,000 of an inch.) The velocity of the crystalspassing through the nozzle can be varied dependingon the surface material. For gelcoat removal, veloci-ties of 720 km-h (450 mph) are often used. The ener-gy to remove the paint comes from the crystal shatter-ing rather than any abrasive action from the blastingprocess. Because of this, there is no scratching orroughing of the gelcoat, so the job is very kind to thesurface. In fact, the particles are gentle enough toremove paint from an empty pop tin without dentingthe aluminum! Voids or osmotic blistering will breakopen and any liquid will be expelled.

The contractor I hired inquired about the avail-able space at the boat site and surroundings.Because the boat was stored on a trailer at our farm,

Before:Years of applying slough-ing-off, soft bottom paints haveleft a rough, bumpy surface.

After: Baking-soda blasting fol-lowed by a freshwater rinse leavesthe hull ready for a finish sanding.LE

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was probably from copper toxicityrather than the sodium bicarbon-ate. The flow of bicarbonate at theend of the nozzle was so light thatone could not see any colorchange of the background due towhite crystals coming out the noz-zle. The only noticeable reactionwas the receding paint line as thematerial was directed at the hull.The waterline paint had also beenlayered and as much of this as

possible was removedby blasting; not a per-fect job, but made sand-ing a much-reducedeffort.

This process is useful for anycleaning application that requires

gentle handling or restoration ofvirtually any surface. Drawbacksof the process are few. If woodenblocks support depth gauge trans-ducers, they will be eaten away bythe process, the softer grain in thewood first. And certain epoxycoatings (i.e. Interlux 2000) aredifficult to remove. When weighedagainst the benefits, namely speedand quality of the final finished sur-face, the payoff is worth the cost.

Preparation is minimal; whetheryou're sanding, grinding or blast-ing, the dust that coats surround-ings must be confined, especiallyin marinas.

Final sanding was necessaryto remove all traces of old paintand small blisters, taking about 10hours each side with 80- and 120-grit paper plus another four hourssanding the waterline. Sandingtime will vary with the surface con-ditions, osmosis damage anddesired finish. Use extra carewhen working among heavy met-als like copper. Wear plasticgloves, a suitable respirator with

with no close neighbors, noshrouding, drop cloths or extra pre-cautions were necessary.The application of sodium bicar-bonate will change the pH in thesoil, giving afaster neu-tralizingreaction thanthe applica-tion of calci-um carbon-ate (lime).

Actualblasting ofthe23.5sq.m(253sq.')area wascompleted in2-1/2 hours,whichallowed meto beginsanding thesame after-noon. About 70kg (150lb) of bak-ing soda was used. There was solittle residue in any one placeunder the trailer that none could bescraped off the gravel driveway.Some of the grass along the edgeof the driveway did die but this

The author sanding with a random orbital sanderand 80-grit paper to remove minute traces of bot-tom paint and smooth over blisters.

Applying Interlux Watertite fairing compound.

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proper filters, and coveralls sealed at the neck andcuffs. Wash work clothes separately from other laun-dry.

Fairing was done using Interlux Watertite (a fast-cure, two-part epoxy fairing compound) then thewaterline was taped with 3M Long Mask and the hullcoated with VC Tar then VC 17 antifouling paint. Ifound that Crown-Meakins 5mm foam rollers lastedtwice as long as Simms brand with the VC products.Interlux recommends non-foam rollers for the job, but Ifound that foam rollers gave a very even surface forthe VC Tar. Application time was relatively quick oncethe weather cooperated. You don't want rain on theseproducts while curing, so I waited for good weather,which meant the painting was completed over threeweeks. The waterline was then taped and finishedwith three coats of Sikkens yacht paint. Total timespent was 50 hours over five weeks.

About the author:After many years of dinghy sailing, Don andPhoebe Campbell purchased an older, in-need-of-TLC Alberg30. His account of replacing their boat's totally saturated coreddeck appeared in DIY 1998-#2 (Summer) issue.

DIY REPAIR BILL

The following is the cost to refinish the bottom of afull-keeled sailboat with a length of 6.9m (22'8"),draft of 1.27m (50") and 2.13m (7') beam at thewaterline.

Blasting $800

VC products $500

Sikkens paint $40

Rollers, sandpaper, tape, brushes, fairing compound $150

Total $1490

Notes: Cleaning several boats at one siteat one time will lessen the cost per boatwith most contractors. Add drop cloths tothe above cost if cleanup is necessary.Check with the contractor to see if theyhave past experience with the surface tobe cleaned. Do not blast off copperpaints near a garden and be considerateof other's property within marinas andboatyards.

44

IDEAL SEALANT FOR BEDDING HARDWARE

ShopTested


DOCKSIDENewProducts

Moisture in the deck core is aserious problem that over time,can result in complete delami-nation (see DIY 1998-#2,"Replacing a Soggy Deck,"page 17). Any fitting that pass-es through the deck or hasdrilled holes for fasteners, mustbe sealed to prevent watermigrating into the laminate.Unfortunately, many productionboats come out of the factorieswith minimal caulking and insome cases (our DIY test boat,for one), none at all. If youhaven't already done so, now'sthe time to remove all thru-mounted hardware and recaulkeither with a polysulfide (semi-permanent) or polyurethaneadhesive sealant (most bondpermanently); use the latterwhen removal is not necessary.

3M Marine AdhesiveSealant Fast Cure 4200 has allthe benefits of a polyurethanesealant with the advantage thatyou can remove fittings and itcures fast: working time isabout 10-minutes at 23.8°C(75°F). Plan on applying the

sealant, mounting thefitting and finishing thejob, one fitting at atime. In summer temper-atures, it's tack-free in20 minutes and reach-es full cure in 24 hours.In cooler temperatures,Fast Cure 4200 staystacky for up to twohours. Using a fast curesealant means you canstrip the deck of fittingsand do all the prep inthe morning, rebed byearly afternoon and goboating at night andhopefully, get the jobdone without trackinguncured sealant all overthe deck. Paintable andsandable, it forms awatertight and weather-resistant seal on hard-ware above and belowthe waterline.

To rebed hardware,remove the fitting andclean both the mountingsurface and the under-

side of the part to be mounted with solvent. Remove oldsealant with a sharp chisel or sandpaper. Run a bead ofsealant (use lots) around the cutout and fastener holes.Fittings with deep flanges will need plenty of sealant.

Deck fittings mountedby the boat manufac-turer without anysealant caused waterpenetration into thewood core.

More is best whenapplying sealant toensure you don't haveany voids.

Remove excess sealant with aputty knife then wipe with ace-tone.

To reseal fittings that are notaccessible, such as baitwell thru-hulls or transom drain holes,remove old sealant, clean thesurface with solvent, run a beadof sealant around the perimeter,then smooth with a tonguedepressor or stick cut to a slightradius edge.A gloved fingerdampened with water and runover the seam gives a smooth,uniform edge.

Tip: cut the cartridge nozzle at a 30° angle and applythe sealant by pushing, not pulling, ahead of the nozzleover the surface. Mount the fitting, fasten down, thenscrape off excess sealant with a putty knife and cleanwith mineral spirits or other solvent that won't damagegelcoat or paint.

Fast Cure 4200 can be used on gelcoat, fiberglass,wood, plastics and metals and requires no primer. Itcomes in 88.7ml (3oz) tubes in white only, or 295.7ml(1/10gal) cartridges (US$12.95/CDN$15.95) in whiteand black. It's available at marine stores or contact: 3MCanada, Box 5757, London, ON N6A 4T1; Tel: (519)452-6141, Fax: (519) 452-6550; 3M Marine Trades,3M Center Bldg. 223-6S-06, St. Paul, MN 55114;North American toll-free number: (800) 3M-HELPS.Write #301 on Product Info Card


SUPER GLUES-ALL

Gloozit (CDN$7.50) multi-use adhesive glue permanent-ly bonds virtually everything. At DIY we've glued woodto wood, joined aluminum to plastic, attached brassstrips to oiled teak, repaired tears in plastic windows,tacked Velcro to wood and welded a crack in aPlexiglas hatch. Glue bonds hold in cold (refrigerator) orhot temperatures. Besides quick repairs or add-ons of

ShopTested

most materials, other not-so-obvious uses could be seal-ing rivets and cracks in aluminum, a thread lock fornuts, repairing canvas tarps or sealing frayed ropeends. A mild-solvent formulation, Gloozit dries fast —tack-free in about 30 seconds — which means you canhand clamp the items you're gluing or wrap them withmasking tape. It stays soft and pliable for much longerand reaches a full-cure in 24 hours. There is no specialpretreatment of surfaces before gluing and clean up iseasy with a sharp knife to trim the cured glue. Workingwith this glue is a lot less messy than other contact gluesbut it does produce the typical stringing. After more thana year's use, the little product remaining in our sample90ml tube hasn't hardened, which gives this glue alonger shelf life than most. Made in the U.S., it's appar-ently only available in Canada. Contact: BurgessChemical & Distributing, 38 Skagway Ave.,Scarborough, ON M1M 3V1; Tel: (416) 264-4328,Fax: (416) 264-2784. Write #302 on Product Info Card

Marine Equipment InstallationsHere’s how to choose, install and operate equip-ment for your boat includ-ing: air conditioning and heating systems, audio systems, bow thrusters, davits, lightning protec-tion, propane systems,

refrigeration, windlasses and more.

Fiberglass Boat RepairHow to survey, repair and prevent cosmetic and structural damage in fiberglass hulls, decks and transoms. Includes the step-by-step repair

of minor cracks and gouges, large holes, water-soaked decks, delaminated hulls and proper installation of hardware.

Nautical NecessitiesFrom cleaning to fuel filter-ing to waterproofing charts, you’ll find ideas and inspi-ration in this compilation of tips to do-it-yourself boat maintenance, repair and

troubleshooting. Divided into 20 categories to make look up easy.

Better Boats More than 200 do-it-yourself projects. Practical solutions to deck and cockpit refitting, inte-rior renovations, rigging upgrades, space-saving

equipment storage, safety add-ons and other nifty items to customize your boat.

Sailboat RiggingA practical guide to deck layouts, equipment repairs, performance upgrades, rig tuning, sail controls and steering systems.

Building With Starboard22 Projects and Fabrication Techniques: The ideal choice for replacing wood compo-nents onboard – won’t delaminate, rot or splinter and requires no paint.

Plumbing 101A boat owner’s guide to the inspection, mainte-nance, repair, trouble-shooting and upgrading of onboard plumbing systems.

DIY MechanicGasoline and diesel engine service. How to maintain, troubleshoot and repair outboard engines, stern-drives and diesel inboards.

AC/DC Electrical SystemsA guide to expanding, upgrading, surveying and troublshooting your boat’s AC and DC electrical system. All articles follow ABYC Standards.

Painting & RefinishingThe complete guide to painting and refinishing hulls, topsides and decks with marine coatings.

Launch & Haulout How to prepare your boat for spring launch and win-ter storage. Includes lay-up checklists, maintenance and lubrication guides, engine servicing, haulout guidelines, easy-to-build storage covers and more.

Technical CD-ROM Library for Boat Owners

MRT SeriesCDs contain articles from past issues of DIY Boat Owner Magazine

To order call 1-888-658-BOAT or Shop Online at www.diy-boat.com

$19.95each

$19.95each

1995 – 2007 52 Issues of DIY:

A technical reference library for powerboat-ers and sailboaters. The editorial archives of DIY from 1995 to 2007, organized by

year and issue from cover to cover.

$99.95MRT BOX SET

12 of the MRT Series in a custom vinyl case. Power version has Powerboat Rigging and

Sail version has Sailboat Rigging.

$119.95 (Specify power or sail)

Electronics Connection

Provides the information you need to consider when pur-chasing, installing, operat-

ing, and troubleshooting marine electronics for most any layout or equipment and budget in a step-by-step approach. $19.95

Powerboat RiggingFrom gauges to propellers to steer-ing systems, here’s everything you need to know to maintain and repair your boat and trailer, improve boat handling and perfor-

mance, and find solutions to common servicing problems.

UPDATED

UPDATED

UPDATED

NEW

UPDATED

NEW

very basic weather information such as current temperature, wind speed and direc-tion, and anticipated weather events such as rain, based on the location you choose. (To try this, send a text to 466453. Type in the letter “w” then a space, followed by the city and state or simply the zip code.)

Other cell phone/mobile options for those devices that include Internet access are services which provide weather information on a subscription basis, generally priced in the $5-per-month range. There is even new software available specifi-cally for the new “iPhones” from Apple.

If you have a Palm or Pocket PC device, you can have weather programs that get updated automatically, and even give alerts if a weather event is impending. One par-ticular program which won the 2007 “Top Pick” for free-ware from Smartphone and Pocket PC magazines is the “Weather To Go” program from Tonaya Technologies Corp., which updates automatically and provides five-day extended forecasts for your location, or other locations concurrently if you travel.

For boats that go a little farther off-shore and can’t receive a cell phone signal, both major satellite radio service carriers also provide weather information, which is accessible through a variety of methods such as a computer connection or through newer models of marine multi-function displays and other stand-alone products. Several manufacturers include access to these reports. There are different levels of subscriptions, ranging in price from $10 to $100 per month. Some packages are designed specifically for anglers or sailors, for example, and have differing levels of information.

As the Foundation tests the products, you are invited to follow our tests. We will provide information and ask for input and suggestions on how and what we test using the Foundation Findings homepage BoatU.S.com/foundation/findings and the

BoatU.S. Magazine September 2007 53

A Coast Guard proposal earlier this summer to cease broadcasting high-fre-quency (HF) weather forecasts, such as the “weatherfax” used by offshore skippers, has put the importance of accurate marine weather back on the radar screen of issues critical to boaters.

The Coast Guard collected comments over the summer on the need for high-fre-quency weather transmissions. Currently, their equipment is antiquated and it will take about $20 million to replace and upgrade it. These weather map broadcasts, which have been sent via radio signal for more than 80 years, provide valuable satel-lite images, sea surface temperature, and general marine forecasts. Data prepared by the National Weather Service is available via fax, e-mail, or using HTTP or FTP protocols. BoatU.S. has filed comments supporting continuation of these broadcasts due to their importance to boating safety.

The BoatU.S. Foundation always rec-ommends that anyone going out for a day on the water check the weather forecast. Most often, boaters will get their weather forecast from the local TV or radio station and from NOAA weather broadcasts avail-able on several dedicated weather channels on marine VHF radios.

But what else is out there? The Foundation decided it’s high time to take a look and see what other marine weather resources are available, and how these new technologies are making weather informa-tion, well, more informative. Over the next few months, the Foundation staff will be testing a variety of products to see what provides the best information and at what cost. The results will be reported in an upcoming “Foundation Findings” article in early 2008.

In doing the preliminary research for this project, we were surprised to see just how many ways weather information is now available — over the Internet, through your cell phone, and, increasingly, integrated into marine electronics that utilize satellite radio reports.

Of particular interest are the very inexpensive cell phone options available from a number of software providers as well as many major cell service providers. For standard text messaging rates, you get

goodfoundationsideas for safe, smart, and clean boating

The BoatU.S. Foundation is a national 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization primarily supported by donations from individuals and grants. Please visit BoatUS.com/foundation for more information.

BoatU.S. Foundation Boating Safety Grants Available

Applications are now available for the BoatU.S. Foundation’s Boating Safety Grant Program which has a total of $50,000 avail-able to small nonprofit organizations and groups around the country to fund projects that promote safe boating practices. The deadline to apply is Nov. 1, 2007.

Grantees can receive up to $4,000 each to fund innovative projects address-ing boating safety issues specific to their local waterways. Past projects have included boating safety literature and signage as well as hands-on efforts such as life jacket exchanges and educational demonstrations.

Since 1988, the Foundation has awarded over three-quarters of a million dol-lars in boating safety grants to fund projects that promote safe boating on local water-ways.

Grant guidelines, information, and applications are available at BoatUS.com/Foundation. The grants will be awarded in late January 2008.

message boards on My.BoatUS.com. We also plan to show video clips of the testing to get you as close as possible to experienc-ing the real thing.

—By Chris Edmonston

Weather to Go Boating

By David & Zora Aiken

PERFECT PORTS Whether you want some extralight in a stateroom or you needto replace the fixed ports in awheelhouse, here's a way tomake a neat job of installingnon-opening, non-leakingPlexiglas or Lexan ports (hereinreferred to as plastic). Cut the open-ing, or remove the old ports. Makea pattern to use to cut out the newplastic ports, adding about 19mm(3/4") beyond the opening on allsides for fastening. From outside(where the port mounts) tape thenew port in position. Working fromthe inside, make a mask for the cen-ter part of the port, covering thesee-through portion (A). Use paperto rough cut the approximateshape, then tape the sides to theport neatly along the edge of theopening (B).

Remove the port from the open-ing. Spray paint the 19mm (3/4")border on the backside of the port(C). This is the "frame" where caulk-ing and fasteners will hold the portin place. Use black paint, or what-ever color might suit your installa-tion. Buy an acrylic-based automo-tive paint; read the label to be sureit can be used with plastic (thentest it to be sure). The goal is tohave a neat, opaque painted sur-face visible from outside, ratherthan the usual messy look of caulk-ing that may not have filledevenly or completely.Naturally, the paint must besprayed before any screwholes are drilled, so all paintstays on the backside of theplastic, having no chance todrip through screw holes.

When the paint is dry, drill


and countersinkscrew holes (inthe non-paintedside) at regularintervals allaround the bor-der (D). Install theport using clearsilicon sealantand pan headscrews that pullthe plasticinward whilekeeping it flat soit won't crack (E).Don't use toomany screws anddon't overtighten;the sealant itselfis a strong adhe-sive. Once theport is in place,the black borderaround the plas-tic will stay neat— since the paintis on the back-side it can't get

scratched or nicked and beingopaque will hide any irregularitiesor dirt-catching voids in the caulk-ing.

David and Zora Aiken are the authors ofGood Boatkeeping and GoodCruising published by InternationalMarine.The Aikens currently live aboarda 1963 10.5m (35’) Chris-Craft sloop,Atelier, berthed in Grasonville,Maryland.

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1998 - #3 (fall) diy marinemaintenance

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