120424 textiles midterm

7/31/2019 120424 Textiles Midterm

1/38


2/38

textile - any filament, fibre, or yarn that can be made into fabric or cloth,and the resulting material itself.

The term is derived from the Latin textilis and the French texere, meaning toweave, and it originally referred only to woven fabrics. It has, however,come to include fabrics produced by other methods. Thus, threads, cords,ropes, braids, lace, embroidery, nets, and fabrics made by weaving, knitting,bonding, felting, or tufting are textiles. Some definitions of the term tex-tile would also include those products obtained by the papermaking principlethat have many of the properties associated with conventional fabrics.

source: http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/589392/textile

1.0_DEFINE_[TEXTILES]

Justin Baatjes_&_Tim de BeerAdvanced Design 1Supervisors: Camia Young &Jordan Saunders

1

Images 1-5 furore by lamaconcept.nl

Sequential diagram of framework for textilesresearch

2 3 4 5

1.0 define [textiles]

2.0 global trade

3.0 supply chain

4.0 raw materials

5.0 compositional process

6.0 manufacturing processes

7.0 applications

9.0 innovation

8.0 geotextiles

10.0 glossary

what is it?

what is its economicrole in society?

where does it come from& how is it made?

what & where are itsuses?

research & development?


3/38

3.0_SUPPLY CHAIN

CustomersRetailstores

Distrib.centres

Apparel

plants

Spinning

Weaving

Dying

Printing

Rawmaterials

Textileplants

Accessories

The supply chain in the textile & clothing sector

After clothing is produced & manufactured it reaches the consumerthrough retail stores. If the clothing is used & returned to theretailer, it can re-enter the chain dependent on the condition orproperties of the textile.

E.g. If the item of clothing has a defect the retailer would sendit to the distribution centre.

If the clothing is damaged it would get sent to the textile plantto get broken down & recycled for its fibers where the processthen begins at that point.


4/38

Raw materials and some of theirapplications for textiles

grass ropesisalhemprush

hemp pinajutec ot t on f l ax bamboo

bamboo

Ramie clothing

paperhemp pulpwoodnet tle cot tonrice

coir (coconut fibre) floor tiles twinebrushes doormats matresses

straw

si lk wo rm m ul ber ry s il k wi ld si lk

hats

4.0_RAW_MATERIALS_ANIMAL

SHEEP

GOAT

ALPACA

LLAMA

CAMEL

RABBIT

GRASS

RUSH

HEMP

COIR

STRAW

BAMBOO

COTTON

PINA

LYOCELL

POLYESTER

POLYPROLPYLENE

ARAMID

ACRYLIC

NYLON

SPANDEX

OLENFIN

INEGO

LUREX

CARBON FIBRE

ASBESTOS[FIBRE]

BASALT [FIBRE]

GLASS[FIBRE]

METAL [FIBRE]

A NI MA L PL AN T SY NT HET IC M IN ERA L

raw material textile application


5/38

5.0_COMPOSITIONAL PROCESSES

two yarns interlaced atright angles to produce orfabric or cloth

longitudinal threads arecalled the warp and lateralthreads are called the weft

the method of how the warpand weft are woven togetheraffects the characteristicof the fabric produced

a loom is used to hold thewarp threads in place whilethe weft threads are weavedthrough

there are three differenttypes of weave

- plain weave- satin weave- twill

knitted fabric is createdby consecutive rows ofloops. Each stich is heldon a needle until anotherloop is passed through it

knitting has much moreelasticity than wovenfabrics due to themeandering loops

knitting variations- courses and

wales- weft and warp- knit and pearl

fastening materialtogether by tying orinterweaving, often withrope

other materials usedinclude

- sting- twine- strap- chain

knots weaken the materialthat they are created inat the place where thebend occurs

a knot works by creatingtension on itself in thedirection of the load thatis exerted on the rope

similar to knitting, theprocess involves rows ofloops however the materialis pulled and twisted by ahook

only one stitch is activeactive a time and it ispulled through the nextand can then be repeateduntil a chain is formed

most common materialsinclude yarn or string

unlike knitting each loopis only linked to theloops on either side of itso if one link was tobreak, the structure wouldstay intact and notunravel

weaving knitting knotting crocheting

non-woven cloth that iscreated by matting,condensing and pressingwoollen fibres

different strengths andtoughnesss can be createdfor different functionssuch as clothing orconstruction

differernt processes ofmanufacturing felt createdifferent products

- wet felting- needle felting- carroting

wet felting is where woolfibres are put through aprocess of constantfriction whilst beinglubricated by moisturethus building up a cloth

needle felting is an artscraft where multipleneedles

felting

plain

satin

twill

courses andwales

knit and pearl

weft and warp

loop

elbow

working end

starting end

bight

knot components crochet components


6/38

7.0_APPLICATIONSWhy use architectural textiles?The use of architectural textiles offers a number of advantages over more traditional materials in both practical design and environmental terms.

Architectural textilesoffer an almostunlimited range of formsand shapes that can beachieved through design.A key driver of textilearchitecture is theability to createspectacular, inorganic,curvilinear forms.

In comparison totraditional buildingmaterials, textilesare more energyefficient in terms of:

- The textileproduction process- Fabrication andinstallation ofmembrane systems- The ability to usenatural lightinginstead of artificial

lighting, with the useof translucent fabrics

slope

Clean and Repack

Manufactured from XR5fabric because conditionsrequire an extremelytough, chemical and UVresistant material.

Floating covers are ideal

or other Waste Treatmentponds

Thermally bonded wooland polyesterinsulation for use inthe building industry.

Products designed forceilings, wallsand floors ofresidential andcommercial buildingsto assist in energyefficiency

Webbing is a strongfabric woven as a flatstrip or tube of varyingwidth and fibres oftenused in place of rope.

Originally made ofcotton or flax, mostmodern webbing is madeof synthetic fibers suchas nylon, polypropyleneor polyester

Fabric structures offera number of costefficiencies in termsof:

of materials used- Speed of installation- Re-deployability offabric structures

Architecturaltextiles range fromnon-combustible

combustible

Some textiles offer a

protection options.Fabrics are now widelyused for shadeprotection againstdirect exposure to UV

recognising thebenefits of shadingbuildings to reduce thesolar gain and heatloads on occupiedenvironments.

These are designed forcontaining diesel, oilor waste from vehiclesor motorisedequipment both in useand when being cleanedor serviced.

Construction

Resistant Polyurethane

Most canopies are madefrom acrylic-coated,polyester reinforcedP.V.C.fire-retardant fabricspecially treated toprevent moisturewicking.

Curtainsiders offersuperior durability andcargo protection foreasy,convenient and safehandling of goods. Theyare long-wearingand easy to clean andmaintain.

PVC textiles are nowfully recyclable withmajor textilemanufacturers runningtheir own recycling

Texiloop Recycle Program.At the end of a fabricstructures life,deconstruction is farsimpler than moretraditional structures.The deconstructionprocess is also much

of building components.

With the development of

textiles, the servicelife of fabric membranestructures now range

greater in somecircumstances.

Architectural textileshave a number of keyproperties thatinfluence itsuseability, including:

- Strength to weightratio- Light translucency- Solar performance- Fabric UV resistance- Flame retardancy- Surface finish

mooBdetalfnIriAseiponaCsredisniatruCWaste ContainmentBunds Flexidams Floating Covers Insulation Seatbelt Webbing

Fire Safety RecyclabilitySustainabilityMaterialProperties Solar Protection

architectural

textileproperties

technical

textiles


7/38

digitaldawn

Electroluminescentwindow covering

felt rocks Recycled-wool sculpturalrocks

Vy & Elle Recycled-vinyl-billboard bags &accessories

RPET Bag Recycled PETandvinyl textiles

Silk,electroluminescence,

100%wool felt

Light,windowblind

Sculptures,toys,centrepiece,imagina-tion,instigtor

Recycled billboardvinyl(shell),nylon (trim &lining)

Bags &accesso-ries,optionalwallcover-ingortemporaryshelters

Recycledvinyl, recycledpolyethylene,terephthalate (PET)

Fashionaccesso-ries,architec-turalelements

Ultratouch Natural cotton-fibre insulation

BrushModular decorativetiles utilizingbrush-makingtechnology

Eclipsecollection

Olefin-basedoutdoor upholstery

Inego PLA Textiles

Recycledleather

Upholstery &tile materialmadeofrecycled leather

SonicFabric

Audible upholsterywoven ofrecycled cassette tape

Ecoleathertile

Leather flooringtiles

Recycled cotton/denimfibres(85%post-industrial content)

Natural hairor syntheticbristles,wood or acrylicsubstrate

100%Olefin

Interior&exteriorwall,ceiling,&floorinsulation

Repurposedwastermaterial,nontoxicmanufac-turingprocess,recyclable( u p t o t e ntimes)

100%Polylactic acid(PLA)

Drapery

100%post-industrial& 100%post-consumerrecycled leather

Upholstery&verticalspecifica-tions

49% recycledaudiotape(post-industrialrecycledpolyester),51% polyester

Residentialupholstery,drapery

Leather, rubber,acaciatree bark

Flooring&wallapplica-tionsinallcommercialenviron-ments

Windochine Hand-loomed natural grass-fibertextiles

WovenHorsehair

Textiles from horsehairweavings

Abaca,raffia, jute,buntalpalm,pinapplefiber,rattanskin,bamboosilk

Windowtreatments,tailoredupholstery&bedding,wallcoverings

Horsehair; cotton,silk, or wool

Screens, wall

& windowpanels,room

dividers,

lighting,installa-

tions,acoustic

treatments

Profil Double-faced felt

Bump Compositetextured textile

50% wool,50% polyester

Closed-cellular foam,fabric

Decorativefabric,

upholstery,

clothing

Handbags,cases,

furnishings

circulation

cityscape

Multi-dimensional wool rug&surface

Topographicwool rug & wallcovering

Facett Foam-encapsulated furniture withdimensionalfabric

Softshelf Flexible shelfmade fromindustrial-gradefelt

Clouds Interlockingfabric tile assembly

Dream71 Knittedstainless-steel fabric

Liminal Air Interior cloudscape

Parametre 3DNonwoven polyestertextile

PublicReceptors

Urbanbody architecture

Raum(zeit)Kleider

Spatialtextile system

100%woolfelt

100%woolfelt

Woodstructure,flexible foamABSarmrests,fabric

Floor rug orwall

covering; may

beused as anacoustic

treatment for

interiors

Floor rug or

wallcovering; may

beused as an

acoustictreatment for

interiors

Furniture

Industrial woolfelt,nylonstitching, Velcrohook& loopfasteners,aluminiumeyelets

Flexiblestorage

Fabric,rubber

Residentialinteiors,

wall hanging,

ceilingtreatment,

spacedivider

100%AISI316Lstainlesssteel

Residential,commercial,

and

institutionalinteriors;

exhibitions

Nylonstring,fluorescentlamp,acrylicmirror

Art

installation,ceiling

100%nonwovenpolyester

Partitions,celilings,

windowtreatments,

dividers,

screens,wallhangings/cove

rings,

decorativepanels, light

diffusion

A setof textilestructures made ofdifferenttypes ofwoolfelt [Karakulfelt,SA Felt,BNfelt), zipper,&fasteningdevies[ribbons,elasticstraps]

Urbantextile

installation,

clothing,urban

furniture,

shelter,fabric

structures

Wool, felt,zippers,pushbuttons

Textile

installation,

bodyarchitecture,

transforma-tiveobject,

clothing,

furniture,shelter,body

extension,

secondskin

Cell Pressedwool-felt carpet

Fiberwall Biodegradable-fibre space divider

Furore Flexible synthetic-fur fabric

Les Tuiles Textiles bricks

SoftHouse Digitallyfabricated housingwithenergy-harvesting& lightdistributing curtains

Zip Zippable modularcarpet system

Woolfelt, PVC-coatedwovenpolyester fabricbacking

Sissalfibre,linentextil,soy-proteinresin,aluminiumrivets

70% acrylic,30%cotton(top);100%wool(backing)

Flooring,

wall

cladding,acoustic

noise

reduction,aesthetic

applications

Space

divider,

luminouswall

Bedspreads,plaids,

cushions,acoustic

noise

reduction,apparel,

aesthetic

applications

Compressed fabricfoam

Flexiblewall

system, soundabsorption,

feature wall

3Dknit FR-coated polymer,Svennson fabric with wovenaluminiuminserts,integrated printedphotovoltaiccells & smartswitchingnetwork, Li-ionrechargeable batteries

Climate

control,energy

harvesting &

distribution;space

division&

privacy

Woolfelt, zipfastener

Flooring

Holofiber

Stomatex

Responsive polyester-basedtexti le

Breathable neoprene fabric

LoopBy theYard

Do-it-yourselftextile material

Morphotex ChromogenicFiber

100%polyesterorblendswithothernatural andsynthetictextiles includingcotton, wool, rayon,nylon,acrylic,spandex, etc.

Neoprene,nylon,polyester, othermaterials

Apparel,

hoisery,medical &

performance

wraps,gloves,

equestrian

products,footwear,

sleep pads

Thermalinsulation

with

moistureremoval

capabilities

Tyvek

Architec-

tural,interior

design, &

fashionapplica-

tions;curtains,

clothing,

bags, windowdisplays

Polyester, nylon

Textiles,clothing,upholstery,automotive,sportinggoods,householdappliances,portableelectronics,cosmetics,opticalinstruments

airtecture Air-inflatedfabric structures

slinky stool Adjustable stoolconstructed ofcompressive knitted fabric

Vitroflex[natural rubber& integratedglass fiberfabric], Polyester,Polyamid,Hostaflon,Pnuematicmuscles, Steelrails

Lightweightstructures

Wool, elasticizedpolyester&polypropylene,shimsteel,foam

Seating

carbon fibrefabric

jelara

High-strength cloth wovenfromcarbonfibre.

Bi-elastic fabric knitted withteflon& polyester

65% carbon fire PTFETenara, 35% polyester

100%carbon fibreStrong,

lightweight

structures

Fabricsculptures&

installa-tions, mobile

fabric

lightweightconstruc-

tions,

textiledesign

objects

Flat window

panels,roomdividers,

decorative

screens,theatrical

back drops

krystalweave

Translucet polymerfabric 85% polymer,10%nylon,5%polyester

3Dfabricsolutionsforoutdooruse,fabricsculptures&installa-tions,lightweightfabricconstruc-tions, fabricdesignobjects

Gore TenaraKT

3DMoldable PTFEFabric

TexaaPanels High-performanceacoust ical panel&wallcovering

DelightCloth

Luminous textilemade withopticalcloth

Freek Ruggedcarpet

TeXtreme Spreadtow carbon fabric

Trasta Knitted electromagneticsheild ingfabric

Zetix Blast-mitigation&ballistic-protection textiles

100%polytetrafluroethlene

Soundabsorptionin

walls&ceilings

Polyvinylfabric,urethane foams

Wallhangings,

ceilingtreatments,

signage,

clothing

Plastic optical fiber

Exteriorrooms,

terraces,

blaconies,kitchens,

bathrooms

Polyethylene& nylonyarns

Sports,aerospace,

marine,

automotive,racing,

design

CarbonFiber

EMI

shielding,Faradaycages

100%tincopperalloy

EMIshielding,

Faradaycages

Monofilamentpolyesterelastomers wrappedwithultrahighmolecular-weightpolyethlene (UHMWPE) &woven togetherwithballisticnylon

ultra_performing multi-dimensional intelligentrepurposed

9.0_INNOVATION


8/38

digitaldawn

Electroluminescent window covering

felt rocks Recycled-wool sculptural rocks

Vy & Elle Recycled-vinyl-billboard bags &accessories

RPET Bag Recycled PET and vinyl textiles

Silk, electrolumines-cence, electronics

100% wool felt

Light,windowblind

Sculptures,toys,centrepiece,imagina-tion,instigtor

Recycled billboard vinyl(shell), nylon (trim &lining)

Bags &accesso-ries,optionalwallcover-ing ortemporaryshelters

Recycled vinyl, recycledpolyethylene, terephtha-late (PET)

Fashionaccesso-ries,architec-turalelements

Ultratouch Natural cotton-fibre insulation

BrushModular decorative tiles utilizingbrush-makingtechnology

Eclipsecollection

Olefin-based outdoor upholstery

Inego PLA Textiles

Recycledleather

Upholstery & tile material madeof recycled leather

SonicFabric

Audible upholstery woven ofrecycled cassette tape

Eco leathertile

Leather flooring tiles

Recycled cotton/denimfibres (85%post-industrial content)

Natural hair or syntheticbristles, wood or acrylicsubstrate

100% Olefin

Interior &exteriorwall,ceiling, &floorinsulation

Interior

Repurposedwastermaterial,nontoxicmanufac-turingprocess,recyclable(up to tentimes)

100% Polylactic acid(PLA)

Drapery

100% post-industrial& 100% post-consumerrecycled leather

Upholstery& verticalspecifica-tions

49% recycled audiotape(post-industrialrecycled polyester),51% polyester

Residentialupholstery,drapery

Leather, rubber,acacia tree bark

Flooring &wallapplica-tions inallcommercialenviron-ments

Windochine Hand-loomed natural grass-fibertextiles

WovenHorsehair

Textiles from horsehair weavings

Abaca, raffia, jute,buntal palm,pinapple fiber,rattan skin, bamboosilk

Windowtreatments,tailoredupholstery& bedding,wallcoverings

Horsehair; cotton,silk, or wool

Screens,wall&windowpanels, roomdividers,lighting,installa-tions,acoustictreatments

airtecture Air-inflated fabric structures

slinky stool Adjustable stool constructed ofcompressive knitted fabric

Vitroflex [natural rubber& integrated glass fiberfabric], Polyester,Polyamid, Hostaflon,Pnuematic muscles, Steelrails

Lightweightstructures

Wool, elasticizedpolyester & polypropyl-ene, shim steel, foam

Seating

carbon fibrefabric

jelara

High-strength cloth woven fromcarbon fibre.

Bi-elastic fabric knitted withteflon & polyester

65% carbon fire PTFETenara, 35% polyester

100% carbon fibreStrong,lightweightstructures

Fabricsculptures&installa-tions, mobilefabriclightweightconstruc-tions,textiledesignobjects

Flatwindowpanels,roomdividers,decorativescreens,theatricalbackdrops

krystalweave

T r an s lu c et p o ly m er f a br i c 8 5 % po l ym e r, 1 0 % ny l on ,5% polyester

3Dfabricsolutionsforoutdooruse,fabricsculptures&installa-tions,lightweightfabricconstruc-tions, fabricdesignobjects

Gore TenaraKT

3D Moldable PTFE Fabric

Texaa Panels High-performance acoustical panel &wallcovering

DelightCloth

Luminous textile made with opticalcloth

Freek Rugged carpet

TeXtreme Spread tow carbon fabric

Trasta Knitted electromagnetic sheildingfabric

Zetix Blast-mitigation & ballistic-protection textiles

100% polytetrafluroeth-lene

Soundabsorptioninwalls&ceilings

Polyvinyl fabric,urethane foams

Wallhangings,ceilingtreatments,signage,clothing

Plastic optical fiber

Exteriorrooms,terraces,blaconies,kitchens,bathrooms

Polyethylene & nylonyarns

Sports,aerospace,marine,automotive,racing,design

Carbon Fiber

EMIshielding,Faradaycages

100% tincopper alloy

EMIshielding,Faradaycages

Monofilament polyesterelastomers wrapped withultrahigh molecular-weight polyethlene(UHMWPE) & woventogether with ballisticnylon

ultra_performingrepurposedDefined as surrogates or materials that are used in place of materialsconventionally used in an application.

Repurposed materials provide several benefits, such as replacing preciousraw materials with less-endagered, more plentiful ones; divertingproducts from the waste stream; implimenting less-toxic manufacturing;

and defying convention.

Ultra-performing materials are stronger, lighter, more durable, & moreflexible than their conventional counterparts. They shatter knownboundaries and necessitate new thinking about shaping our physicalenvironment.

9.0_INNOVATION


9/38

digitaldawn

felt rocks

Vy & Elle

RPET Bag

Ultratouch

Brush

Eclipsecollection

Inego

Recycledleather

SonicFabric

Eco leathertile

Leather flooring tiles

Windochine

WovenHorsehair

Recycledleather

SonicFabric

Eco leathertile

eather flooring tiles

Windochine

Veritex High-strain-fabricshape-memory composite

High strain fabric,shape-memory polystyrenematrix

Cork fabric Woven cork-based fabric

Doubleface Knitted stainless-steel&polyester fabric

PlainsCollection

Metal-enhanced solar textile

Tarrot Knitted metal fabric

Cork composite, elastane

Deployabletemporaryhousing,dynamicstructures&habitats,automotivecomponents,adaptivereinforce-ment,trappedtooling

Upholstery,wallcover-ing,acousticwall panels

61% AISI 316L stainlesssteel, 39% polyester

Residential,commercial,institu-tionalinteriors;exhibitions

60% vinyl on polyster,30% polyester, 9%aluminum, 1% nylon

Shades,paneltracksystems,roomdividers,decorativescreens,theatricalbackdrops,fabrics forencapsula-tion in PETGresin

57% enameled copper,22% brass, 21% AISI316Lstainless steel

Interiordesign

Casula Ritual garment with laser-cut &metallic fabric

Wave Textile & aluminum acoustic wallpanels

YaZa

Collection

Hybrid interlace solar textile

Fabric Liturgicalceremonies

Fire-retardent foam,opn-structure textiles,aluminum frame

Wallcladding,acousticnoisereduction,aestheticapplications

60% vinyl on polyester,30% polyester, 9%aluminum, 1% nylon

Rollershades, romanshades, paneltracksystems,roomdividers,decorativescreens,theatricalbackdrops,fabrics forencapsulationin PETG resin

digitaldawn

felt rocks

Vy & Elle

RPET Ba

WovenHorsehair

Fuzzy LightSwitch

Fuzzy capacitive light sensor

Mute room Memory foam-based environment

Fibre optic

rug

Hand-tufted wool rug with fiberoptics

Hammock

Chair

Folding fabric vessel and suspendedknitted seat

Shutters Electronically controlled textile

Polyester, wool, nylonfabric, rayon yarns,conductive yarns

Memory foam, polyesterfoam

Wool yarns; fibre-optic,latex-backed cotton

Recycled paper-pulp cord,polypropylene, aluminiumhoop

Interiorlightingcontrol

Mattresses,chairs,bicycle seats

Residentialandhospitalityflooring

Vesselforstorage,chair

Shape-memory alloy, woolfelt, conductive fibers

Precisecontrol ofventilation,daylightincidence, &informationdisplay

Fabriled

ActiveProtectionSystem

LED signage woven into flexiblefabric

Smart impact-protection textile

Litmuscreen PH-sensitive exterior textilesurface

Cotton, electroniccircuit board

Spacer fabric treatedwith a dilatant siliconecoating

Point-of-purchasedisplays,signage,messageboards

Blastprotection,sounddamping,industrialandgeo-fabrics,protectivegarments,sportsapparel &accessories

Lichen-based chemicallyimbibed, UV-resistanttextile

Awnings,canopies,tents,umbrellas

Give back

curtain

Fabric woven with luminousphosphors

Cotton, polymer withoptical treatments

Energyharvestingcurtains,luminousprivacyenclosures

transformational recombinant

Transformational materials undergo a physical metamorphis based onenvironmental stimuli. This change may occur automatically based oninherent properties of the material, or it may be user driven. Transfor-mational materials provide a variety of benefits, including waster

reduction, enhanced ergonomics, solar control, illumination, as well asunique phenomenologyical effects. Transformational products offermutliple functions where one would be expected, provide benefits that fewmight have imagined, and help us understand the world differetly.

Recombinant materials consist of two or more different materials that actin harmony to create a product that performs greater than the sum of itstwo parts. Such hybrids are created when when inexpensive or recyclableproducts are used as filler, when a combination allows for the acheive-

ment of mutliple functions, when a precious resource may be emulated bycombining less-precious materials, or when different materials act insymbiosis to exhibit high-performance characteristics.

9.0_INNOVATION


10/38

10.0_GLOSSARY

AbsorbencyA measure of how much amount of water a fabric can absorb.

AcetateAcetate is a synthetic fiber.

AcrylicAcrylic fiber is a synthetic polymer fiber th at contains at least 85%acrylonitrile.

Aida clothAida cloth is a coarse open-weave fabric traditionally used for cross-stitch.

AlnageAlnage is the official supervision of the sha pe and quality of manufacturedwoolen cloth.

AlpacaThe wool of the Peruvian alpaca.

AngoraAngora refers to the hair of the Angora rabbit, or the fabri c made from Angorarabbit fur. (Fabric made from angora goat is moha ir.)

AppliquAppliqu is a sewing technique in which fabri c shapes, lace or trim, are sewnonto a foundation fabric to create designs.

AramidAramid fiber is a fire-resistant and strong synthetic fiber

ArgyleAn argyle pattern is one containing diamon ds in a sort of diagonal checker-board pattern.

BaizeBaize is a coarse woollen or cotton cloth, often colo ured red or green.

Ballistic nylonBallistic nylon is a thick, tough syntheti c fabric used for a variety ofapplications.

Barathea

Barathea is an indistinct twill or broken rib - usual ly a twilled hopsackweave - with a fine textured, slightly pebbled su rface.

BatikBatik is an Indonesian traditional wor d and refers to a generic wax-resistdyeing technique used on fabric.

Bedford-CordCombination of two kinds of Weave, Namely Pla in and Drill.

BiasThe bias direction of a piece of woven fabric, usuall y referred to simply as"the bias", is at 45 degrees to its warp and weft threads.

BindingIn sewing, binding is used as both a noun and a verb to refer to finishing aseam or hem of a garment, usually by rolling or pressing the n stitching on anedging or trim.

BlendA Blend is a fabric or yarn made up of more than one type of fiber.

Bobbin laceBobbin lace is a delicate lace that uses wound spools of thr ead (the bobbins)to weave together the shapes in the lace.

BobbinetBobbinet is a tulle netting with hexagonal shaped holes, traditionally used asa base for embroidery and lingerie.

BombazineBombazine is a fabric originally made of silk or silk an d wool, and now alsomade of cotton and wool or of wool alone. It is twilled or corded and used fo rdress-material.

BraidTo braid is to interweave or twine three or more separat e strands of one ormore materials in a diagonally overlapping pattern.

BroadclothBroadcloth -material of superior quality

BrocadeBrocade is the term for forming patterns in cloth wi th a supplementary weft.

BuckramBuckram is a stiff cloth, made of cotton or linen, which is use d to cover, andprotect a book.

BurlapBurlap is a type of cloth often used for sacks.

CalicoCalico is a type of fabric made from unbleached, and oft en not fullyprocessed, cotton. Also referre d to a type of Printing.

CambricCambric is a lightweight cotton cloth used as fab ric for lace and needlework.

DamaskDamask is a fabric of silk, wool, linen, cotton, or synt hetic fibers, with apattern formed by weaving.

Darning mushroomA darning mushroom is a tool which can be used for darning clot hes, particu-larly socks. The sock can be stretched over the top of the (cur ved) mushroom,and gathered-tightly-around the stalk.

DenimDenim denotes a rugged cotton twill textile.

DimityDimity is a lightweight, sheer cotton fabr ic having at least two warp threadsthrown into relief to form fine cords.

Dobby loomDobby loom is a loom in which each harness can be manipulat ed individually.

Double weaveDouble weave is a type of advanced weave. It is done by interla cing two ormore sets of warps with two or more sets of filling yarns.

DowlasDowlas is the name given to a plain cloth, similar to sheeting, but usuallycoarser.

DyesDye is used to color fabric. There are two main types: Natu ral dyes andsynthetic dyes. The process is called dyeing.

EmbroideryEmbroidery is an ancient variety of decorative needlework in which designs andpictures are created by stitching stra nds of some material on to a layer ofanother material.

Epingl fabricA type of velvet fabric woven on a wire loom or pingl loom. The ping lvelvet is specific by the fact that both loop pile and cut pile can beintegrated into the same fabric.

Even-weaveEven-weave or evenweave fabric is used in counted-thread embroidery and ischaracterized by Warp and weft threads of the sa me size.

EyeletGrommets and eyelets are metal, plasti c, or rubber rings that are insertedinto a hole made through another material . They may be used to reinforce thehole, to shield something from the sharp edges of the ho le, or both.

FeltFelt is a non-woven cloth that is produced by mattin g, condensing and pressingfibers. The fibers form the structure of the fabr ic.

FeltingThe process of making felt is called felting.

Fiber

Fiber or fibre is a class of materials that are continuo us filaments or are indiscrete elongated pieces, simi lar to pieces of thread. Fibers are often usedin the manufacture of other materials.

FilamentA filament is a fine, thinly spun thread, fiber, or wire .

FinishingFinishing refers to any process perfor med on yarn or fabric after weaving toimprove the look or performanceof the finished textile.

FishnetFishnet is a material with an open, diamond shap ed knit.

FlannelFlannel is a cloth that is commonly used to make clothin g and bedsheets. It isusually made from either wool, wool and cotto n, or wool and synthetic fabric.

FlaxFlax fiber is soft, lustrous and flexible . It is stronger than cotton fiberbut less elastic. The best grades are used for linen fab rics such as damasks,lace and sheeting. Coarser grades are use d for the manufacturing of twine andrope.

FriezeFrieze is a coarse woollen cloth with a nap on one side, that was rais ed byscrubbing it to raise curls of fibre.

FullingFulling is a step in clothmaking which involv es the cleansing of cloth(particularly wool) to get rid of oils, dirt, an d other impurities.

GabardineGabardine is a tough, tightly woven fabri c often used to make suits,overcoats and trousers.

GaugeA gauge is a set number of rows per inch (in knitting) or the thread-c ountof a woven fabric that helps the knitter determi ne whether they have theright size knitting needles or a weaver if the cloth is tig ht enough.

GanteGante is a cloth made from cotton or tow warp and jute weft. It is largel yused for bags for sugar and similar material, an d has the appearance of afine hessian cloth.

GauzeA very light, sheer, fine woven fabric.

GeotextileA geotextile is a synthetic permeable textile.

GinghamGingham is a fabric made from dyed cotton yarn.

Glass fiber (fibre)Fiberglass is material made from extre mely fine fibers of glass. It iswidely used in the manufacture of insulation and textiles.

HeddleCommon component of a loom used to separate warp thre ads for passage of theweft. Commonly made of cord or wire.

HemTo hem a piece of cloth (in sewing), a garment worker folds up a cut edge,folds it up again, and then sews it down.

HempThe main uses of hemp fibre are rope, sacking, carpet , nets and webbing.Hemp is also being used in increasing quantities in paper manufacturing.

HuckabackHuckaback is a type of coarse absorbent cotton or lin en fabric used formaking towels.

IntarsiaIntarsia is a knitting technique used to creat e patterns with multiplecolours.

InterfacingInterfacing is a common term for a variety of materia ls used on the unseenor "wrong" side of fabrics in sewing.

Jacquard loomThe Jacquard loom was the first machine to use punched ca rds. It usespunched cards to control the pattern being wove n. It is a form of dobbyloom, where individual harnesses can be raised and lowered independently.

JuteJute is a long, soft, shiny plant fibre that can be spun into coarse , strongthreads.

KnitTo make (a fabric or garment) by intertwining yarn or thr ead in a series ofconnected loops either by hand, with knitti ng needles, or on a machine.

Knit fabricsKnit fabrics are fabrics that were produced th rough the process of knitting.

Knitting needle gaugeA knitting needle gauge makes is used to determin e the size of a knittingneedle.

LaceA lace fabric is lightweight openwork fabr ic, patterned, either by machine orby hand, with open holes in the work.

LamLam is a type of brocaded clothing fabric with inwov en metal threads,typically of gold or silver, giving it a metallic she en.

LawnLawn is a fine linen or cotton cloth.

LinenLinen is a material made from the fibers of the flax plant.

LodenLoden is water-resistant material for clothing made from sheep wool.

LoomThe Loom is a machine used for weaving fabric.

LucetLucet is a method of cordmaking or braiding. Luce t cord is square, strong, andslightly springy.

MerinoMerino is the Spanish name for a breed of sheep, and hence appli ed to a woolenfabric.

MeshA mesh is similar to fabric or a web in that it has many connected or weavedpieces.

Metallic fiber (fibre)Metallic fibers are fibers used in textile s which are either composed ofmetal, or fibers of other materials with a metal coat ing.

Microfibre (fiber)Microfibre is a term for fibres with strands thin ner than one denier. Fabricsmade with microfibres are exception ally soft and hold their shape well.

MocadoMockado is a woollen pile fabric made in imitatio n of silk velvet.[4][5][6]

ModalModal is a cellulose fiber made by spinning recon stituted cellulose from beechtrees.

MohairMohair is a silk-like fabric made from the hair of the Angor a goat. It isdurable, light and warm, although some people find it uncomfortably itchy.

Camel's HairCamel's Hair is a natural fiber from the camel. Came l hair can produce avariety of different coarseness of yar n. This fiber is a novelty fiber spun byhand-spinners.

CanvasCanvas is an extremely heavy-duty fabr ic used for making sails, tents,marquees, and other functions where sturdiness is required

Canvas workCanvas work is embroidery on canvas.

CardingCarding is the processing of brushing raw or wash ed fibers to prepare them astextiles.

CarpetA carpet' is any loom-woven, felted textil e or grass floor covering.

CashmereCashmere is wool from the Cashmere goat.

CelluloseCellulose; this fiber processed to mak e cellophane and rayon, and morerecently Modal, a textile derived from beechwood cellulose.

CheeseclothCheesecloth is a loosewoven cotton clo th, such as is used in pressing cheesecurds.

ChiffonChiffon is a sheer fabric made of silk or rayon.

Chino clothChino cloth is a kind of twill fabric, usually made prima rily from cotton.

ChintzChintz is calico cloth printed with flower s and other devices in differentcolors. It was originally of Eastern manufacture.

CoirCoir is a coarse fibre extracted from the fibrous out er shell of a coconut.

Colorfast (Colourfast)A term used to describe whether the colors bleed or not in wash ing.

CordCord is twisted fibre, usually interme diate between rope and string. It isalso used as a shortened form of corduroy.

CorduroyCorduroy is a durable cloth.

CottonCotton is a soft fibre that grows around the seeds of the cotto n plant, ashrub native to the tropical and subtropic al regions of both the Old World andthe New World. The fibre is most often spun into thread and use d to make asoft, breathable textile.

CrashCrash is a rough fabric made from yarns that are usually un dyed. The coarsesttype is called Russian crash. Linen is genera lly used for the warp yarn, whilelinen and jute are used for the filler.

CrepeCrepe is a silk fabric of a gauzy texture, having a peculia r crisp or crimpyappearance.

CrinolineCrinoline was originally a stiff fabri c with a weft of horse-hair and a warpof cotton or linen thread. The fabric first appea red around 1830.

Cross-stitchCross-stitch is a popular form of counted-thread embroidery in which X-shapedstitches are used to form a picture.

CrochetThe word crochet describes the process of cre ating fabric from a length ofcord, yarn, or thread with a hooked tool.

Crochet hookA crochet hook is a type of needle, usually with a hook at one end, used todraw thread through knotted loops.

A

E

H

I

J

K

L

M

F

G

B

D

C


11/38

FORMAL INVESTIGATION

TIM DE BEER

SPINNING

Research


12/38

By spinningaround this vertical axis,a symmertical surfaceis created.This isproduced by an array ofa single component repeated until the form is complete.


13/38

a Bb DdCc Ee Ff

g hi

vertical axis

360symmetry

no edges

circular rotational axisnocomponentrotation


fro n l vaio n


vertical axis

two lineofsymmetry

no edges

vertical axis

two lineofsymmetry

twopoints

vertical axis

onelineof symmetry

twopointsheavy base

vertical axis

onelineof symmetry

open top

vertical axis

onelineof symmetry (wholesurfaces)

two lines of symmetry (individual surfaces)threesurfaces

2points/6points

o

vertical axis spinning

circular axis spinningoutcomevariables

perspectiveview

sideelevation

perspectiveview

front elevation

perspectiveview

symmetry

points

rotation2

component

density

rotation 1

spinningcomponent rotation 1 rotation 2 overlapmodeling

process

ensity


14/38


15/38


16/38


17/38


18/38

research ->

textiles ->

formal investigation ->

weavingprogram & site ->

concept design ->

technical design ->

presentation ->

justin_baatjesuoa_school_of_architectureadvanced_design_1supervisors: Camia Young &Jordan Saunders


19/38

Generating_Woven_Geometries_Grasshopper_Weaving_Definition

a: input_surface_weftb: input_surface_warpc: input_patternd: inherent_data_sete: F(x)=(x+x)-1conversion_into_valuesf: values

a

b

c

d


20/38

Digital_Weave_Principles

Weft_Binary Warp_Binary Weft_&_Warp_Binary_Overlay

Digital_Weave_Weft_Amplitude_Field_

Digital_Weave_Warp_Amplitude_Field_

Digital_Weave_Weft_&_Warp_Amplitude_Field_

0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 00

1 1 10 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1

0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 00

1 1 10 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1

0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 0

0

1 1 1

0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1

0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 0

0

1 1 1

0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1

0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 0

0

1 1 1

0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1

0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 00

1 1 10 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1

0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 00

1 1 10 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1

0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 0

0

1 1 1

0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1

0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 0

0

1 1 1

0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1

0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 00

1 1 1

0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1

0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 00

1 1 10 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1

0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 00

1 1 10 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1

0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 00

1 1 1

0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1

0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 0

0

1 1 1

0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1

warp is the setof lengthwiseyarns that areheld in tensionon a frame orloom.weft is drawnthrough the warpto create wovengeometry

digital_weave_principles

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

1 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1


21/38

Patterns/Binary_Samples_Catalogue

_ 00 1. bm p _ 00 2. bm p _ 00 3.b mp _ 00 4.b mp _0 05 .b mp


_ 01 1. bm p _ 01 2. bm p _ 01 3.b mp _ 01 4.b mp _0 01 5. bmp





_0 36 .b mp _0 37 .b mp _0 38. bm p _0 39. bm p _ 04 0. bmp







Note: See Appendix 1


22/38

Generating_Woven_Geometries

Selected_patterns

Note: See Appendix_1for larger renders

Generated_Woven_Geometries

_009.bmp

_Left _View

_Right_View

_Top_View

_010.bmp _063.bmp _068.bmp _091.bmp

S f T


23/38

Surface_Types

Operations

corners of sur-face is raisedto a higherposition orlevel while thecentre of thesurface remainsfixed

surface madelonger or widerwithout tearingor breaking

surface endsturned while 45& 90 degreeswhile the restof the surfaceremains station-ary

drawing thecentre of thesurface downwardwhile the edgesremain fixed

lift stretch twist pull

planar pinched bifurcated rippled

Of, relatingto, or in theform of aplane

Grip tightlyand sharplyand pulledupward

Division intotwo branches orparts

A small wave orseries of waves

Operations Planar Surface


24/38

Operations_Planar_Surface


Operations Rippled Surface


25/38

Operations_Rippled_Surface


Operations Bifurcated Surface


26/38

Operations_Bifurcated_Surface

Operations Bifurcated Surface


27/38


M



28/38

p

z



29/38

M



30/38

X


31/38

Loom_Model_001

Warp - steelWeft - elasticbandsLoom - timber

Varied warpspacing

Gradual in-crease in weftspacing

1. 2.


32/38

_009.bmp

1: graphical_pattern2: top_view_render_of_woven_geometry3: left_view_of_woven_geometry4: right_view_of_woven_geometry5: perspective_pf_woven_geometry

3.

4.

5.

1. 2.


33/38

_063.bmp


3.

4.

5.

1. 2.


34/38

_091.bmp


3.

4.

5.

1. 2.


35/38

_129.bmp


3.

4.

5.

1. 2.


36/38

_145.bmp


3.

4.

5.


37/38

Program


38/38

CBD

airport

Lyttletonport

95km

SOUTHERN ALPS

onstatehighway77

1hour 20minutes travel - 95km

site

plainsmountains

Christchurch

PuddingHill

40,000Hectares

4040,0,,,,0,0,,,, 00 Heeecccceectttaaarreeeess

http://www.tumbllllleweedtees.com

120424 textiles midterm

Documents