202 ESQUIRE MARCH 2016 ESQUIRE MARCH 2016 203

t r a v e l

I n to t h e h e a rt o f e u ro p eIs there more to Switzerland than milk chocolate, William tell and trains that run on time? to esquire’s (pleasant) surprise there is—and it takes the form of a warm embrace on a cold winter’s day.

Words by Sim Wie Boon

t h e au t h o r M a r k t Wa I n once called Swit-zerland a large, lumpy rock with a thin skin of grass stretched over it. This is the first thing that comes to mind when I discover that I will be trav-elling to Zurich for a week. And with that, I ven-ture to the world’s most liveable city with nothing more than thoughts of cheese, chocolate, moun-tains and lumpy rock in my head.

But during my stay, I find the city offers so much more than what I initially thought it would. Situated at the heart of Europe and the foot of the Swiss Alps, Zurich has earned the title of the city with the highest quality of living in the world eight times in succession, according to the Mercer Quality of Living Survey, due to its safety, clean-liness, cultural activities, cuisine and plethora of recreational areas. It’s hard to find fault with it as you discover its history, people and architecture.

PHOTOGRAPHS By ZURICH TOURISM BOARd.

204 ESQUIRE MARCH 2016 ESQUIRE MARCH 2016 205

previous spreadZurich Old Town, the historic heart of the city.

BelowHauptbahnhof, or better known as the Zurich Main Station, the largest railway station in Switzerland.

BottomIm Viadukt, a railway viaduct repurposed as a trendy shopping and cultural district.

topGrossmünster, a nearly 800-year-old Protestant church.

aboveKunsthaus, one of the most important musuems for fine art housing over 4,000 paintings, sculptures and installations.

t r av e l—Into the heart of europe

In Zurich, I find myself drawn to the western quarter known as Zurich-West, the city’s former industrial centre, which has now been trans-formed into a trendy entertainment mile that comes alive at night. In a quiet and historical city such as Zurich that prides itself on its heritage, transformation is in a constant yet silent state of flux. Within Zurich-West, the past collides with urban advances and a diverse range of leisurely activities by way of art, design, gastronomy, shop-ping and music.

Nestled in the valley plain between the Lim-mat river and the railway tracks that run north-west to the main train station, or Hauptbahnhof, Zurich-West covers approximately half a square mile. To the east, it is separated from the neigh-bouring quarter by a row of viaduct arches, and extends as far as Aargauerstrasse to the west. At the end of the 19th century, factories sprouted in the area, to take advantage of the nearby Limmat as a source of energy and water, as well as the fa-vourable transportation connections by rail; thus heralding the beginning of Zurich’s industrial age, which was to last for decades.

However, as the 20th century drew to a close, the many factories and warehouses, which had since been abandoned, were given a new lease of

life. Small, creative firms took up residence; bars and discos opened; and meeting places were cre-ated. Refurbished shipyards and container build-ings with exposed brickwork were particularly popular. To this day, Zurich continues to prioritise sustainability, and intentionally keeps things small and simple. A good example is Im Viadukt where boutiques, kindergartens and a market hall sit be-neath 36 arches of a 142-year-old railway bridge.

Strolling in the city, it’s hard to find a new structure. Most stores, offices and other busi-nesses occupy old stone and brick rises that have been standing in Zurich for hundreds of years. “We do not build new buildings, but refurbish older ones instead. It is the wish of our govern-ment to conserve them that way,” says a local. In that case, what are your main concerns with the city? Corruption? Congestion? Pollution? The lo-cal sighs, before continuing that the main concern of city residents is the high taxes for heating, es-pecially in winter. It’s a valid point I reckon, for any snow-covered European city, but a probe further into the problem leaves me flabbergasted. “Our furnaces burn rubbish and waste to heat up our homes and buildings, but the problem is that we recycle too much, so we don’t have enough rubbish and need to import it from Germany or elsewhere,” adds my new Swiss friend. Lost for words, I offer an impressed nod instead.

High on the 35th floor of the 125m-tall Prime Tower—Switzerland’s tallest building—is Restau-rant Clouds. Locals frequent the bar and bistro for its stunning views of the Swiss Alps, impec-cable service and, of course, delicious food. With regional influences of France, Germany and Italy, I find myself partial to the Germanic fare in Zu-rich, but perhaps, in hindsight, it is the heartiness of each meal that allows me to brave the unfamil-iar cold weather. While taking in the view (while good, it’s not the best, but we’ll get to that later), an earlier assumption of mine is confirmed: Zu-rich is a beautiful mélange of old and new, which syncs so well that, at first glance, you imagine a large stroke of grey stones and fine lines.

Above the hills of Lindenhof in Zurich Old Town is where you’ll get the best view of the city, day or night. Atop this moraine hill, the medieval and Roman influences are evident, as you pick out Zurich’s old houses dotting its narrow, wind-ing lanes. In the distance, the double towers of Grossmünster, one of Zurich’s main four church-es, stand proud and strong. According to legend, Charlemagne built the towers on the burial site of the city’s saints, Felix and Regula. The city’s other main churches include Peterskirche, which has Europe’s largest clock face, and Fraumünster, which is known for its stained glass windows by Giacometti and Chagall that gleam in the morning light. While the latter is definitely an Instagram-worthy shot, you could just have a cup of coffee and savour the moment like any sane person should.

For your art fix, head to Kunsthaus, which is home to one of the most important art collections

in Switzerland. Assembled over the years by an art association called Zürcher Kunstgesellschaft, the impressive collection spans the Middle Ages to contemporary art, with an emphasis on Swiss art. It is here that I have the privilege of viewing major works by artists such as Claude Monet (including an enormous water lily painting), Edvard Munch, Pablo Picasso, Jacques Lipchitz and Alberto Gia-cometti. Swiss artists such as Johann Heinrich Füssli, Ferdinand Hodler, Pipilotti Rist and Peter Fischli are also represented within the gallery.

The guilds, or zünfte in German, played an im-portant role in Zurich’s history. In 1336, in what was called Brun’s Revolution, a knight called Ru-dolf Brun deposed the ruling nobility of Zurich and replaced them with the guilds, with him as their head, of course. Similar things were happen-

ing all over Europe at that time. Bakers and build-ers were taking over government—something strange to us perhaps, but back then, they were the leading economic enterprises of the time. To put things in perspective, think biotech and In-ternet companies leading a revolution (if they aren’t already). However, like all revolutions, the commoners began to experience an eerily similar fate. The richest merchants and remaining nobil-ity grabbed all the power for themselves, with the average worker only playing a token role in governing the city. These guild members showed off their status as the city’s political elite through their magnificent guild houses strewn all over Old Town. These stately palaces are now tourist attractions, making Zurich Old Town akin to a liv-ing museum.

An excellent example is Zunfthaus Zur Waag, now a restaurant, but previously a guild house belonging to linen weavers. Tracing its origins to 1287, it was built by a burgher and was later passed on to the children of knight and sheriff Heinrich Biber, before ending up with Ulrich Luthold, who was a member of the linen weavers’ guild, in 1385. These days, this jewel of the city is a popular wed-ding venue and restaurant for locals and tourists alike. With its century-old wooden stairs, sigils lining the hallways and dim lighting, Zunfthaus Zur Waag still exudes a commanding presence, much like its former owners who held Zurich in their grip. As revealed by the restaurant manager, the current owners are bound by law to keep the building as it is. Every change or refurbishment,

206 ESQUIRE MARCH 2016 ESQUIRE MARCH 2016 207

t r av e l—Into the heart of europe

no matter how minor, must have government ap-proval. From giving the façade a new lick of paint to selecting decorative plants and replacing a door, each process is scrutinised to maintain the building’s heritage and authenticity.

C h r I St M aS I n z u r I C hIt is Christmas time in the city during my visit, and one of the city’s largest Christmas markets at Sechseläutenplatz sets up right in front of the Opera House where my hotel is located. With the homely smells of gingerbread, bratwurst and gluhwein (mulled wine) filling the air, Zurich’s “Wienachtsdorf ” is simply enchanting. One hun-dred market stalls join forces to form this con-vivial Christmas village with festive sights and sounds seemingly straight out of a children’s book. With a glass of mulled wine in hand and hot bratwurst slathered in spicy mustard in another, people watching certainly makes for one heck of a rather peaceful and soothing evening. A few steps away from Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich’s main downtown strip, is the Singing Christmas Tree, where regional choirs gather on a multi-tiered podium that resembles an enormous Christmas tree, to sing carols. Definitely a sight to behold, especially when you’re so used to their shopping mall brethren back home. While some tunes are in German, Christmas cheer transcends language barriers and fills one’s heart with warmth and joy, or perhaps it is just the wine talking.

The following leg of my journey takes me to Rheinfall, Europe’s largest waterfall. The pound-ing water immerses you in a harmonious cacoph-ony where, amid the cold and wet sprays, I find an odd beauty to the waterfall. An amalgamation of blue, green and white, one feels so small next to it. As wave after wave of water crashes onto the rocks, I am left in awe that something as simple as a waterfall can be so impressive and powerful.

Hours later, I find myself in Sertig Dörfli, a municipality of Davos, south of the down in the Swiss canton of Graubünden. If there is anything that encompasses the notion of time standing still, Sertig does. Like all tributary valleys in Da-vos, this is a typical glacial valley with steps and sills. The tiny village, 1,861m above sea level, with a small church surrounded by flower-filled mead-ows, dense forests and impressive peaks, has no more than 10 chalets. Extremely popular with tourists due to its bucolic setting, it has been des-ignated as a special conservation area. The Hinter den Eggen chapel, which was constructed in 1699, is well worth a visit—you might even catch a wed-ding in progress—while refreshments can be en-joyed at Hotel Walserhuus Sertig, at the foot of the Mittagshorn, Plattenflue and Hochducan, and at two restaurants: Bergführer and Mühle Ser-tig. Sertig Valley is accessible by car, post van or horse-drawn carriage, which was the norm for visitors who sought the solitude of the mountains over a hundred years ago.

In Davos, it begins to snow and temperatures drop to -5°C as soon as I arrive. Being a native of the tropics, I am shivering in my pea coat while children in nothing more than windbreakers run and play in the usually quiet town that hosts the

annual World Economic Forum. Home to one of the biggest ski resorts in Switzerland, Davos traces its roots back to 1280, when barons and colonists from Germany first settled here. By the 19th century, it was a popular destination for the sick and the ailing due to its high-altitude climate, which was said to be good for tuberculosis.

I am told a stay in Davos is also good for writer’s block, as Robert Louis Stevenson discovered, or so the story goes. Apparently, the Scottish novel-ist was racking his brain for an ending to his pi-rate tale Treasure Island without much success. He travelled to Davos, in order to take time out and recuperate in the world-famous high-altitude climate. In his suitcase was his manuscript. Was it perhaps the rural culture and the healthy alpine air that relieved his writer’s block? Perhaps we will never know, but the fact is that the words flowed with ease shortly after his arrival, and Stevenson found himself churning out a chapter a day.

The cradle of skiing in Switzerland can be found at Parsenn, which links to Davos and Klosters. In 1895, four English tourists lost their way on the Weissfluhjoch, and ultimately, land-ed in Küblis, thereby discovering the 12km-long Parsenn descent—an Alpine myth, according to many. Since the opening of the funicular railway over 80 years ago, Parsenn has become the classic skiing mountain with endless descents on wide

slopes—as epitomised by the Parsenn Derby, the oldest ski race in Switzerland. The Parsenn ski arena can be reached from Davos using the Par-senn funicular railway, and from Klosters by the Gotschna cable car.

Those seeking the slower pace of traditional winter sports will find it on the “magic moun-tain” high above Davos. Here, skiers are handed their T-bar personally as traditional Swiss music plays in the background. After a comfortable as-cent, the slopes fall away gently. This is skiing as it was in years gone by. Thanks to this cultivated charm, Schatzalp/Strela is Europe’s first “slowed down” skiing region. The Schatzalp—at an alti-tude of 300m above Davos—is the starting point of the classic toboggan run to Davos Platz, which Thomas Mann wrote about in his novel The Mag-ic Mountain. The run is 2.8km long and takes in 18 bends through the Schatzalp magic forest on its descent down to Davos Platz, and is gentle enough for newbies like me.

So within the heart of Europe, I enjoy snow, wine, meat, cheese, history and art. I discover a city “plagued” by its sustainable policy (not a bad thing) and residents whose trust in their insti-tutions is met by active conservation, care and equality. I leave Zurich with an air of longing in the hopes that one day I might return to enjoy the warmth it offered me, even in winter. 

topThe Singing Christmas Tree found in one of the largest Christmas markets in town.

above, rightRheinfall, the largest waterfall in Europe.

rightFraumünster, one of Zurich’s oldest buildings, is a church built on the former grounds of an abbey for aristocratic women.

aboveOpera House in Sechseläutenplatz, home to the Zurich Ballet and the Zurich Opera since 1891.

THIS TRIP WAS MAdE POSSIBlE By QATAR AIRWAyS And ZURICH TOURISM BOARd.