year xx no. 4 - may 2013 rapevin

GRAPEVINE€ 2

GRAPEVINE€ 2

WHAT’S ON IN & AROUNDWHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

Year XX No. 4 - May 2013Year XX No. 4 - May 2013

2 - May 2013 GRAPEVINE

Festa della Colombina

The Festa Della Colombina is Sunday 19 May at

the Villa Fiori Park from 10am to 6pm. Colombina

is the name of a bread baked in the shape of a

dove, made in Bagni di Lucca in the 1800's in the

local ovens and served at cafes.

As well as tasting the Colombina, you or your

children can paint a statuette or browse through

a little market. There will also be open air games

and activities for the children.

For the enogastronomic event

ASPETTANDO ANTEPRIMA VINI 2013

at Lucca’s Real Collegio (4,5,6 May), we invite you

to join us at Villa Marta on 2 May.

Antipasti: Carpaccio di manzo di pozza con fave e pecorino della

Garfagnana. Soufflè di asparagi e cipollotti su crema di parmigiano.

Primo: Pappardelle al ragù d’anatra e aromi.

Secondo: Cosciotto di coniglio nostrale cotto al sacco.

Caponatina di stagione.

Dolce: Cestino croccante con spuma di ricotta e fragole

€35,00 including cover and drinks

Wines from the Associazione Grandi Cru Toscana

served by AIS Sommeliers:

Reservations:

0583 370101; 328 3847886

Via del Ponte Guasperini, 873

55100 S.Lorenzo a Vaccoli

Lucca

[email protected]

Tenuta Maria Teresa -

Bernicchi rosso 2007

Terre di Talamo -

Tempo Riserva 2006

PISA LUCCA

Piazza dei Miracoli: M.U.S.T. (Memoria Urbana Società e Territorio), Via Guinigi 29. Leaning Tower, March to October 9am to 7pm, November to history, archaeology, photography. Tues-Sun 10am to 6pm. 0583 442916. February 9.30am to 5pm. April to September 8.30am to 8.30pm. Night Lu.C.C.A. Museum of Contemporary Art, Via della Fratta 36. 0583 visits from 14 June to 15 September, 8.30pm to 11pm. €15. Take the 571712, www.luccamuseum.com shuttle bus A from Central Station. 050 910789. Domus Romana Lucca, Via Cesare Battisti 15. Archaeological site Cathedral, Autumn, spring and summer 8am to 8pm. €2. Winter 10am 0583 050060, www.domusromanalucca.it to 12.45 pm, 3pm to 4.45 pm weekdays, 3pm to 4.45pm Sundays and Villa Guinigi, Via della Quarquonia. €4 (reduced €2, free under 18 and holidays. 050 560547. over 65).Tuesdays to Saturdays 8.30am to 7.30pm. 0583 496033. Baptistry, The biggest in Italy, built in 1153 by Diotisalvi with works Torre Guinigi, Via Sant'Andrea 45. €3.50. June to September 9am to by Nicola Pisano. March to October 9am to 6.30pm. €5 (reduced €2). midnight. 0583 3166846. Winter 10am to 4.30pm. 050 560547. Palazzo Mansi, Via Galli Tassi 43. €4 (reduced €2). Tuesdays to Monumental cemetery, Etruscan, Latin, Medieval. March to October Saturdays 8.30am to 7.30pm. 0583 583461, 0583 55570. 9am to 6.30pm. Winter 10am to 4.30pm. €5 (reduced €2). Puccini's Birthplace, Corte San Lorenzo 9. €7 (reduced €5, free under

10). April to October 10am to 6pm. Closed Tuesdays. 0583 584028. Botanical Garden, Via Luca Ghini 5. Dating from Cosimo de’ Medici Comics, Piazza San Romano 4. €4 (reduced €3). Tuesdays to Sundays (1544), attached to the University of Pisa. 050 2211316. 10am to 6pm. 0583 56326. Jewish Cemetery, Via Palestro, near Piazza dei Miracoli, dating to Cathedral and Cathedral Museum, Piazza Antelminelli. €4 (reduced 1648, one of the oldest Hebrew cemeteries in Europe. €2.50). March 8 to November 2, 10am to 6pm. Winter, 10am to 2pm. Piazza dei Cavalieri, Re-designed by Giorgio Vasari in the 16th Saturdays and Sundays 10am to 5pm. 0583 490530. century according to the wishes of Cosimo de’ Medici, seat of the Palazzo Pfanner, Via degli Asili 33. Gardens and medical instruments Knights of St. Stephen and the Scuola Normale. One of the towers of Dr. Pfanner. 0583 954029. contains the jail of Count Ugolino, as recalled by Dante in the Inferno. Palazzo Ducale, Cortile Carrara. Provincial offices, historic rooms Palazzo Blu, Lungarno Gambacorti 9. Free admission. Tuesdays to and Cresci Foundation for Italian Emigration. 0583 417363. Fridays 10am to 7pm, Saturday and Sunday 10am to 8pm. 050 500197. Museum of the Liberation (1940-1943), Via Sant'Andrea 43. Open Museo San Matteo in Soarta, Lungarno Mediceo. €8 (students 18 to Wednesdays and Saturdays 3 to 6pm and third Sunday each month. 25 €4). 050 541865. Fondazione Ragghianti, Via San Micheletto 3. Art library, galleries, Wall by American artist Keith Haring (1958-1990) entitled conference rooms, ancient cloister with gardens. 0583 467205Tuttomondo, at the Sant'Antonio Convent near Piazza Vittorio Botanical Garden, Via del Giardino Botanico 14. Open week days Emanuele II. A metaphor for peace and harmony in the world. 9.30am to 12.30am, from July to 16 Sept. 10am to 7pm. 0583 442160.

MUSEUMS AND MONUMENTS (see What’s On pages for more information)

Contents

Address for correspondenceand advertisingGrapevineVia Francesconi 2S. Ginese di Compito55012 Lucca

Telephone 0583 909012Fax 0583 908849Mobile 340 2880562Skype susan.jarman.rosalind

[email protected]

Registrazione Tribunale di Luccano. 629 del 13 dicembre 1994Iscrizione CCIAA Lucca no. 199169

Printed by Myck Press srlCalcinaia (PI) tel 0587 422802

Direttore ResponsabileGiuseppe Brandani

FounderSusan Jarman

EditorAlexander Simi

ContributorsHelen AskhamNorma Jean Bishop (coordinator)Chiara CalabreseClaudia CasoliSonia ErcoliniMarisa GiannottiMorena GuarnaschelliHerbert HandtGareth HorsfallDebra KolkkaSwietlan N. KraczynaSimone LippiHannah MossShona NunanFrancis PettittMarjorie Werner PicchiJenny SchutzJacqueline Varela

CoverWindows and Shutters, Piazza Puccini, Luccaby Richard Clare [email protected]

The listings published in Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith. However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information before setting off.Signed articles do not necessarily reflect the views of the editor or of the Direttore Responsabile.

GRAPEVINE May 2013 - 3

2013May

Your Satisfaction is Our PleasureVia del Ponte Guasperini, 873

S. Lorenzo a Vaccoli 55100 Luccatel +39 0583 370101 fax +39 0583 379999

[email protected]

GPS - Latitude: 43.80001 NORDLongitude: 10.49145 EST

Altitude: 243 ++

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my Luckenbach, with her husband Nick and their children, lived in a magical place called Colleramole, the 14th century home of Domenico Ghirlandaio, in the A hills south of Florence. They went there in 1964 and

stayed. At first, Amy made clothes, puppets, masks and dolls for her children. Before long she became involved in costume making for theatre, beginning with Gillian Hunt at Opera Barga. Then she discovered her passion for puppets.

By 1974, Amy was creating puppets modelled on Maurice Sendak's Where the Wild Things Are, and she staged her first theatrical pro-duction based on this children's book in the piazzas of Florence. Then, together with Heather Webster (a costume maker from London who was working at OperaBarga) she began a new project: Hans Christian Andersen's The Emperor's Nightengale, for which she turned to Chinese iconography. This production was given in various places in Florence, with flute music accompanying the fairy tale. A few years later she had prepared two African stories, The Big Tree and The Fat Woman Who Melts in the Sun.

In 1978, Amy together with Heather and other collaborators, decided to participate in the international puppet competition for pro-fessional puppeteers, UNIMA, in Varna, Bulgaria. She found a Bulgarian folktale about Fannullone (the Italian name for a lazy do-nothing guy) and enhanced this story with Tuscan proverbs. Only four years into her professional puppet-making career, Amy won first prize, and continued performing Fannullone until 1998....

In the inspired and beautifully illustrated bilingual book written by her husband, who is also a creative artist himself, we discover the amazing career and growing recognition of Amy's talents. Her theat- Babar the elephant), Luciano Berio (A-Ronne, Novissimum rical gifts included choreographic elements, since she insisted that Testamentum for the poet Edoardo Sanguineti), Paisiello music be an element of her story-telling. Soon she was working with (La Serva Padrona). Maurice Sendak came to her studio and musical talent in Florence and beyond, creating puppets for the together they conceived a project to animate Mozart's early music of Debussy (La Boîte à Joujoux), Poulenc (for the story of music (Fantasy Sketches).

Where the Wild Things Are – the opera

A Puppeteer's Life

Amy with the A-Ronne puppets


Scala. Syracuse University in New York added their support to the project. But by 2009 her health had deteriorated and the project could not be completed.

This brief sketch gives an idea of Amy's amazing life. The book By 2004, Where the Wild Things Are became an opera, com- (235 pages, published by Labyrinth Press in 2012) is a pleasure

posed by Oliver Knussen, commissioned by the Brussels National and a treasure. Opera for UNESCO's International Year of the Child. Max became a puppet the size of a five-year-old child.

Sendak's In the Night Kitchen was their latest project, to be made into an opera with music by contemporary composer Philip Glass. This was eventually commissioned by the San Francisco Opera and Amy even obtained the backing of La

Amy’s portrait puppet of Edoardo Sanguineti

The book published by Harper & Row in 1970

A Puppeteer's Life in Florence and Beyond

Amy with “La Boîte à Joujoux” puppets. 1982

Bianca’s cousin on the terrace at Colleramole

Presentation of the book

Amy Luckenbach: Love and Life

of Puppets and Dolls

by author Swietlan N. Kraczyna.

Speakers Lisa Friend and Sylvia Hetzel Introduction by Sasha Perugini,

director of Syracuse University, Florence

May 16, 6pm, free Syracuse University,

Piazza Savonarola 15,Florence

Tel. 339 7577623, . [email protected]

hianti wine and Lucchese to build a Statue of Liberty in white oil were introduced to the marble and to undertake the construc-Virginia colony by the tion of the monumental buildings in C Washington, D.C. Mazzei approached Tuscan Filippo Mazzei.

Born in Poggio a Caiano (near Prato) the task with his usual diligence, trav-in 1730, Mazzei led a full and long elling to Florence where he found two life as a doctor, ambassador, agricul- fine young sculptors, then on to Rome turalist, commercial trader, journal- to interview Canova, who was unfortu-ist and political theorist. nately fully engaged on a major project

On a diplomatic mission as the some distance from the city. He Grand Duke Leopold's ambassador returned to Florence and hired the to London, Mazzei received a sculptors Andrei and Franzoni, arrang-request for two Franklin stoves. By ing for them and their families to chance Benjamin Franklin was at undertake this commission on the best this time in London, so together they of terms. arranged to have the stoves faithfully Reading Mazzei's Memoirs, which he produced and delivered to Leopold. began when he was 80 and completed Soon thereafter, in Paris, he again when he was 83, we are struck by his encountered Franklin, who as U.S. confidence, his openness to friendship emissary was honored by the French and adventure, his staunch belief in lib-Lumières (Enlightenment philoso- erty and democracy. His childhood rec-phers). Mazzei also came to know ollections include doubts regarding reli-the future U.S. presidents John gious faith, but his medical studies sus-Adams and Thomas Jefferson. Their tained his belief in reason and gave him friendship resulted in Jefferson's invi- cause to question the value of religion. tation to Mazzei, to come to Virginia and European press. In 1776 his communica- More than a medical doctor, Mazzei was a take up farming alongside Monticello tions with Jefferson and his comments in man of the Enlightenment, a cross-(near Williamsburg and Charlottesville). the Virginia newspapers (translated by fertilizer of ideas. Thanks to Mazzei, On the first trip Mazzei brought along Jefferson) found echo in the Declaration Tuscans have long been present in Virginia, some contadini: two Lucchese (one with of Independence. He returned to Europe, and have always been esteemed in wife and child) to help with the olives, a tai- where he became ambassador to King Washington, D.C. lor from the Piedmont region, and a Louis XVI, experiencing the French Mazzei died in Pisa in 1816 at the age of Genovese farmer. Revolution firsthand as the king and 86.

Along with his agricultural activities, queen fled Versailles. Then he went to The Memoirs of Filippo Mazzei were Mazzei actively served the Revolution Poland, commissioned to King Stanislav. written two hundred years ago, published alongside future presidents such as Returning to Pisa a few years after the in two volumes in 1845 (Lugano), then in a Washington, Adams, Jefferson and turn of the century (when he was already shorter, single volume in 1944 (Rome), in Madison and patriots like Patrick Henry 70 years old), Mazzei received a letter 1946 (Florence) and most recently in 1985 and George Mason, and he was an apolo- from Jefferson asking him to find sculp- (Bologna) by the Associazione Filippo gist for the American independence in the tors, perhaps even the esteemed Canova, Mazzei.

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ladimir Ashkenazy, one of the Do you know about the musi-world's greatest pianists and cal history of Lucca: starting

conductors, directed the Euro- from the 15th century with John pean Union Youth Orchestra Hothby, and through the 16th

(EUYO) last month in a concert at the and 17th centuries with several Basilica di San Frediano, performing The well-known madrigalists, Rites of Spring by Stravinsky and Suites I Lucca's music continued with and II of Daphne and Chloè by Ravel. This composers like Francesco year marks the 100th anniversary of Gemignani, Luigi Boccherini, Stravinsky's magnificent works. Niccolò Paganini (who wrote

The Youth Orchestra consists of 100 his famous Caprices in Lucca), musicians between 14 and 25 years of age, Alfredo Catalani, Giacomo outstanding young musical ambassadors Puccini (and five generations of

very best at every rehearsal and perfor-selected from the 27 countries of Europe. composers in this family), and, last but not mance. I always look forward immensely The concert was organized by the least, the contemporary composer Gaetano to my concerts with the EUYO. Associazione Musicale Lucchese, which Giani Luporini?

Can you say whether you now prefer con-was founded by Herbert Handt in 1963. I'm not familiar with Lucca's illustrious ducting to playing the piano, at which you Maestro Handt knew Stravinsky person- musical history but I love Italy and I'm are considered one of the great virtuosos at ally, having worked with him in New York delighted to come here with the EUYO. our time? before coming to Europe in the late 1940’s. The AML has a very intense programme

For me, music is indivisible between gen-Maestro Ashkenazy responded to a few dedicated to children and young people. res, whether it be the piano, chamber questions from M° Handt, on the occasion Could you comment about your work with music or conducting. Of course there are his performance in Lucca last month. a group of young musicians (the EUYO) technical differences; the technique in comparison to working with a profes-involved with conducting and playing the Has M° Ashkenazy ever been to Lucca? sional well-established orchestra? piano is entirely different, but my intent to No, I don't recall having visited Lucca It is an unbelievable pleasure to work express something important through before, but I'm very much looking forward with young musicians because they genu-music remains the same. to my visit. inely want to be there and they do their

Ashkenazy in Lucca

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V

othing could be more fitting than a night of passion-ate music to mark the 200th anniversary of Giuseppe Verdi's birth. One of the most important and well-N known Italian composers, this man has commanded

a full year dedicated to him and his music even 200 years later. Lucca, The City of Music will play host to a concert showcasing some of Verdi's most touching and intense repertoire. On Sunday 5 May at 9 pm, I Concerti degli Angeli Custodi will present Viva Verdi. Not to be missed.

Tenor Giancarlo Monsalve is one of the illustrious performers for this evening's music. Born in Chile, this young cultural ambassador has already achieved an international opera career singing in opera houses in Italy, Tokyo, London and soon with Washington National Opera in the United States, opening their season in Verdi’s La Forza del destino.

His presence in Viva Verdi is especially exciting considering Monsalve called Lucca home for three years. He moved to Italy to study with the world renowned Mirella Freni and then launched his career out of Lucca with a production of Puccini's Madama Butterfly. Also on the musical menu is Mozart's Le nozze di Figaro which

This concert will also feature Federico and Simone Nicoletta, will be performed 25 and 26 May at 8.30 pm in Montecarlo’s pianist and clarinettist respectively, who have garnered rave Teatro dei Rassicurati. Performing the role of Figaro is Mattia reviews and praise for their musicality. A night with Verdi costs Campetti, with Lavinia Bini as Susanna, Valentina Corradetti as 12 euros, or for students 5 euros, quite fair considering the maj- the Contessa and Giovanni Mazzei as the Count. Jonathan esty of his music performed live. Brandani plays the harpsichord and directs the string and flute quin-

tet (original transcription from the 1700’s). As the artistic director of both I Concerti degli Angeli Custodi

and the new association LuccaOperaFestival, Mattia Campetti brings with him great musical knowledge and edgy perfor-mances that create cohesion between both organizations and audiences. If you enjoyed the production of Don Giovanni that his group presented last year, then you will be thrilled by Le nozze di Figaro. This famous opera centers around a farce-like day in a grand house and the very real relationships between ser-vants and masters who live there.

Between the busy concert season and the opera-filled spring, Lucca will be honoring Verdi in style while also paying homage to Mozart's classics. Make sure to catch as many of these beauti-ful performances as you can. Information: http://www.luccaoperafestival.com http://www.iconcertidegliangeli.com

Viva Verdi and Figaro!

by Hannah Moss



Pisa’’’’®s San Rossore Park text and photos by Chiara Calabrese

San Rossore Massaciuccoli Park pro-tected area, which stretch along the coast of the provinces of Pisa and T

Lucca, with their geographical position and cli-mate ensure an unusual variety of environments: vast wooded coastal area, dominated by decidu-ous and pine woods (maritime and stone pine); vast expanses of dunes and natural beaches (Tirrenia and Marina di Vecchiano); internation-ally important wetlands (Lake Massaciuccoli and swamps of San Rossore).

The portion of the park that falls within the boundaries of Pisa province is divided into three estates: San Rossore Estate, at the centre of the park, and Coltano and Tombolo estates to the south. The Tenuta di San Rossore covers more than 4,800 hectares, characterised by a great wealth of animal and plant species. Birdlife is incredibly prosperous and there is a strong pres-ence of deer, wild boar and other smaller mam-mals such as foxes, porcupines, dormice, badg-ers and squirrels. The Park entrance is located near Pisa, only approximately 3 kilometres from the city centre. The entrance is free and the Park is open to the general public at weekends and fes-tivities, while during the week it is open for pre-booked organized tours.

The Park includes a Hippodrome ring with res-taurant and bar, also known as Prato degli Escoli, and a few historical buildings, such as Casale la Sterpaia and Cascine Vecchie, which have been refurbished to host different activities. Surrounded by the woodlands and pinewoods of the exclusive and prestigious former presidential estate of San Rossore, the Casale La Sterpaia is an ancient 19th century farmstead, former rural building of the Royal Stables of the Savoy Family, which has been entirely renovated and transformed into a Guest House, Visitor Center of the Park and refreshment point. Casale La Sterpaia also offers didactic halls with multime-dia equipment for environmental educational activities.

At the Cascine Vecchie there is the Bottega del Parco, a small food shop which sells typical prod-ucts of the area, mostly organic, and also pro-vides cold dishes and sandwiches for picnics and light lunches in the outdoor gazebos. Just next to it, there is a very special restaurant called Poldino (tel. 050/9911212) which offers local dishes traditionally cooked (deer, wild boar and pine nuts all come from the Estate).

The Park also provides bike rental and guided excursions on foot (from 1 and a half to 5 hours), by ecological train (from 1 and a half to 2 hours), but most of all by horse which is perhaps the most charming excursion in the park. You can choose one of the many different trails, short excursion (1 and a half hours), medium excursion (2 and a half hours), and all day excursion (5 hours) during which you can observe the luxuriant

he 23,000 hectares of the Migliarino


Pisa’’’’®s San Rossore Park text and photos by Chiara Calabrese

photo from the Park website

vegetation and wildlife in all its splendour: marsh canes (Phragmites australis), falasco (Cladium mariscus), marsh hibiscus (palustris).... You can finally choose a tour on a horse-drawn carriage through the pinewood or a longer one reaching for the sea and the wildest areas of the park, where you can spot horses in the wild, boars, deer and many different bird species.

With the approaching of spring and summer, if you are in Pisa and want to enjoy the open air spaces and nature, do not miss the Parco di San Rossore and all its amenities!

'Info and meeting point for guided and didactic visits For more information:on foot, by bike, by coach, and by ecological train

'Rental service of bikes, quadricycles, electric cars, San Rossore Estate Visitor Center and coach with eight seats for people with Località Cascine Vecchie - Tenuta di San Rossoredisabilities 56122 Pisa (PI) Tel 050/530101 - 050/533755

'Coach or ecological train transfer service between Fax 050/3836908 Email: [email protected] the railway stations of Pisa S. Rossore and Pisa Web: www.centrovisitesanrossore.it Centrale

'Book and souvenir shop La Sterpaia Guest House and Visitor Center 'Nearby outdoor area for packed lunch and picnics Casale La Sterpaia - Via Sterpaia, 16 - Tenuta di San Rossore - 56122 'Environmental education activities Loc. La Sterpaia (PI) 'On demand, education activities in English, Tel 050/533601- Fax 050/526779 - Email: [email protected]

German, and French Web: www.casalelasterpaia.it


CHURCH OF S. MARIA BIANCA CIRCOLO CATALANI

good faith based on the information Boccherini OPEN Musical excursions: to the Nuovo Teatro in Gavailable at the time of going to press. Concert of Film Music by the Cappella Santa Florence for Stravinsky's Rite of Spring Past experience has taught us that events pro- Cecilia and the Boccherini-Carducci orchestra. (Maggio Musicale Fiorentino) on 11 May, and grammed more than a month ahead can change 2 May 9pm. www.boccherini.it to Teatro Carlo Felice of Genoa for Verdi's La date, hour or venue. We recommend you check Traviata, 26 May. Information: 347 9951581.before setting out. ORATORIO DEGLI ANGELI CUSTODI

I Concerti dell'Angelo Custode (all at 9pm) CHURCH OF SAN GIOVANNI

Viva Verdi 5 May, with internationally known Puccini Recitals 7pm. Mondays, Mozart & tenor Giancarlo Monsalve. See page 9. Puccini; Tuesdays, Puccini's Women;

LUCCA Gala concert for G. Verdi, 7 May. Music of Wednesdays, An Evening of Italian Opera; Teatri Nascosti Mozart and Lucchesi composers, 11 May (to be Thursdays, Puccini & Verdi; Fridays, Puccini Itinerary to discover Lucca’s past theatres. 3rd repeated 2 June in Berlin). Violin and piano re- Opera Recital; Saturdays, A Night at the Opera; and 4th Saturday of each month (18, 25 May), cital by G. Buccarella and G. Campagnola, 19 Sundays, Puccini & Traditional Neapolitan 3pm. Meet in front of Basilica di San Frediano. May. Cello ensemble conducted by L. L. Danzi, Song. Soloists with pianist Massimo Morelli. €10. Reservation required. 30 May. In collaboration with Assoc. Cluster. Special concerts: From Classical to Classic [email protected] nist Sunmi Han and the Orchestra of Grosseto

SAN PIETRO SOMALDI (Mozart, Dvorak, Prokofiev), 29 May 9.30pm. TEATRO DEL GIGLIO Piazza del Giglio. Choral concert commemorating the finding of the French songs: Federica Nicotra and Melissa Di Miranda, a play based on Shakespeare's The Holy Cross. Music by G. Puccini Sr., F. Corteccia, Biasio accompanied by pianist Beatrice Venezi, Tempest, 12 May. 0583 465351. G. Puccini Jr., S. Pieruccini and Giuseppe Verdi. 23 May 9.30pm. Mozart's Gran Partita KV 361 www.teatrodelgiglio.it S. Pieruccini conducts the Santa Felicita choir of for woodwind, with the Grosseto Orchestra, 24

Lucca, the Bruno Pizza Coro Polifonico of Pisa, May 9.30pm. Quartet Nardini: Quartets from Associazione Musicale Lucchese sopranos A. Berti and E. Fioretti, organist E. 18th Century Tuscany, 27 May 9.30pm. €15. Homage to Giuseppe Verdi, 21 May 9pm. Barsanti, pianist I. Brunini. Free. Information: 340 8106042. Tickets on sale daily Julian Kovatchev directing the Lucca in 6pm to 7.15pm at San Giovanni. [email protected], Musica Orchestra. SAN MARTINO CATHEDRAL www.puccinielasualucca.comORT – Orchestra della Toscana, 31 May 9pm, Organ concert by Silvano Rodi. Free. 17 May performing Portera, Tchaikovsky and Brahms. 6pm. Cantiere della Musica, FLAM. FONDAZIONE BANCA DEL MONTE, Piazza San A. Romanovsky (piano), D. Kawka directing. Martino, 7.ORT – Orchestra della Toscana, 7 June 9pm, Sagra Musicale Lucchese VILLAGGIO EUROPA

performing Deraco, Mozart and Beethoven. SAN PIETRO SOMALDI CHURCH Concert for Europe, commemorating EU G. Sobrino (clarinet), J. Kovatchev directing. Italian-German music including Scarlatti and founding with melodies from operettas and pop-

Zipoli with M. Christiani (oboe) and A. Trovato ular Italian songs. Singer Graziano Polidori TEATRO DEL GIGLIO AND SAN GIROLAMO (organ). 11 May 9.15pm. Tel. 340 3042039. and vocal students from Livorno's P. Mascagni Crescendo con la Musica (Growing Up with musical institute. Free. Music). Students from the A. Passaglia Art Sagra Musicale LuccheseInstitute, dance and music section, Lucca and DEI SERVI CHURCH ARLIANOSeravezza, perform every Sun. in May at 11am. Homage to Boccherini with soprano E. Norberg- Sagra Musicale Lucchese

Schulz and L. Boccherini chamber orchestra so- ARLIANO CHURCH

AUDITORIUM DEL SUFFRAGIO, Piazza del loists. 26 May 9.15pm. Tel. 340 3042039. Cantilena Antiqua Association and Concentus Suffragio. Lucensis, 4 May 9.15pm, medieval pilgrim Boccherini OPEN Sagra Musicale Lucchese songs and music. Tel. 340 3042039.The musical tradition of Eastern Italy from BALUARDO SAN COLOMBANO

Tartini to Pavle Merku, 11 May 6pm. 4 May 4pm, Band concert of the Associazione CAPANNORI Classical guitar by Adriano del Sal and Gaelle Musicale Fiorentina directed by M. Mangani, PIAZZA ALDO MORO

Solal, 16, 17, 18 May. with the participation of students in the project May Day celebrations 1 May 6pm, Singer Peter and the Wolf by Prokofiev, Elio Pandolfi Io e Luigi veri amici in collaboration with the Francesco De Gregori, Free concert. Local and the Boccherini Orchestra. 30 May 9pm. Centro Studi L. Boccherini. Tel. 340 3042039. groups will also perform.

rapevine publishes the listed events in

MUSIC AND THEATRE

What’s on

Complete Program: www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it - www.teatrodelgiglio.it

conc

erts 21 /05 Teatro del Giglio, 9:00 pm

TRIBUTE TO GIUSEPPE VERDIAGRESTA sopranoBERRUGI tenorVIVIANI baritoneORCHESTRA LIRICA TOSCANAKOVATCHEV conductor

31 /05 Teatro del Giglio, 9:00 pmORT - ORCHESTRA DELLA TOSCANAROMANOVSKY piano • KAWKAconductorPortera, Tchaikovsky, Brahms

7 /06 Teatro del Giglio, 9:00 pmORT - ORCHESTRA DELLA TOSCANASOBRINO clarinet • KOVATCHEV conductorDeraco, Mozart, Beethoven

lectures 11 /05 BIETTI / Verdi e Wagner, due culture della musica

18 /05 BATISTI / Wagner e il tempo25 /05 RESTAGNO / Sigfrido tra romanticismo e realismoLectures are in Italian / info: www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it

film

s Cinema Italia, Lucca, 9.30 pm22 /05 AIDA by Clemente FRACASSI 29 /05 ADDIO DEL PASSATO by Marco BELLOCCHIO

QUARTET by Dustin HOFFMAN5 /06 LA TRAVIATA by Franco ZEFFIRELLI


VORNO (Capannori) VALDOTTAVO PISA TENUTA DELLO SCOMPIGLIO, Via di Vorno 67. TEATRO COLOMBO TEATRO VERDI Via Palestro, 40.18 May, 11am to 11pm. Première-Inauguration. I Concerti della Normale: 10 May 9.00pm Trilogy of Absence by Cecilia Bertoni. Estados GabbiaNo, a re-writing of Chekov's Seagull, Brahms Le Stagioni del Valzer, part III. Songs indefinidos para una existencia. Exhibition by with Woody Neri. 4 May 9pm. and Waltzes of Love (piano and voice). Pablo Rubio, curated by Antonio Arévalo. Eco del Vesuvio, Neapolitan song tradition www.sns.it or call 050 509432. Box office tel. From 15.45, Sweetheart, Why did you Lose? with Stefano Albarello. 10 May 9pm. 050 941111, www.teatrodipisa.pi.itReflections in Black and White. Kind of Blue. Voci della metamorfosi inspired by Franz Preview 17 May, 18 May free entry. The perfor- Kafka. 17 May 9pm.mances have limited audience capacity of 20 Short productions for the Tristano Martinelli persons. Booking is advised. Adults only. Festival, in collaboration with Opera Bazar and LUCCATrilogy of Absence, Sat. and Sun.: €18, Fri. €12. La Compagnia dei Pezzenti, 25 May 9pm.. See SAN CRISTOFORO CHURCH, Via Fillungo.3.30 to 7pm, Children's workshop (age 4-10). www.operabazar.it for competition details. Wim Delvoye Until 1 September. Mon to Sun Free. Di corsa dietro ai mille. Puppets are used to 1 0 a m t o 8 p m . Te l 0 5 8 3 9 5 7 6 6 0 , 19,25,26 May, 1,2 June from 3.45pm: present an improbable volunteer for the [email protected], Why did you Lose? Reflections in Risorgimento. 31 May 9pm. www.artscristoforolucca.comBlack and White. Kind of Blue. 24,31 May from www.teatrivalledelserchio.it 5.30pm. Reflections in Black and White. Kind www.flamlucca.it MERCATO DEL CARMINE

of Blue. The history of this market shown in photo-During the break you can visit the exhibition by From Opera to Jazz Ars Nova Duo, 5 May graphs. Until 18 May.Pablo Rubio, watch Kind of Blue screened in 5.15pm. Incontrando la Lirica singers Roberto the foyer and discover the visual elements and Lorenzi and Margherita Tani, pianist Angela FONDAZIONE BANCA DEL MONTE, Piazza San sounds scattered around the space. In case of Panieri, 12 May 5.15pm. From Boccherini to Martino, 7. rain, a video of Reflections in Black and White, the Beatles, James Brunini (guitar) and the Dario Ballantini, paintings: Identità artefatte will be screened inside the SPE. The Cucina Medley Quintet. www.flamlucca.it (Artifacts identity). 20 April to 19 May. Mon to Dello Scompiglio will be open for aperitif, Neopolitan songs from the past, with singer Fri 3.30 to 7.30pm, Sun 10am to 1pm, 3.30 to snacks, lunch and dinner inspired by the and guitarist Stefano Albarello. 10 May, 7.30pm. www.fondazionebmluccaeventi.it Trilogy of Absence 10% discount on the menu 9.15pm. Free. www.flamlucca.itwith entry ticket. Ticket office: tel. 0583 CATHEDRAL MUSEUM, Piazza Antelminelli.971125, [email protected], BAGNI DI LUCCA Teatime at the Museumwww.delloscompiglio.org TEATRO ACCADEMICO Sunday 26 May visit to San Frediano Church and

2 to 13 May. Teatro della Scuola, a gathering of the Amphitheatre. Hours 3.30 to 5.30pm, meet at PORCARI student performances from the entire region. the museum. Tour followed by tea at Girovita. VINCENZO DA MASSA CARRARA AUDITORIUM www.teatroscuola.it Aduts €7, children €4, families €15. Reserve at Una Voce – Una Canzone, international com- the museum weekdays 10am to 2pm (0583 petition for new voices in popular song. 1 June 9.15pm Viva Verdi 490530) or [email protected],25,26 May. Call 334 3308960 or write [email protected] for more information. LU.C.C.A. CENTER OF CONTEMPORARY ART,

GHIVIZZANO (near Bagni di Lucca) Via della Fratta 36. MONTECARLO CHURCH OF THE SACRO CUORE Antonio Ligabue - Istinto, genialità e follia TEATRO DEI RASSICURATI Choral festival organized by the Ghivizzano 2 March to 9 June. 80 works of art, including 3 Lucca Opera Festival choir with the Alpi Apuane choir conducted by never before seen. Open Tuesday to Sunday 10 Mozart Trilogy. Le Nozze di Figaro 25-26 May, M° Luca Bacci. 10 May, Tel. 0583 82114. am to 7 pm. www.luccamuseum.com. followed by Don Giovanni- 22-23 June and www.coroalpiapuane.com. Così fan tutte 31 August, 1 September. All at MAGGIANO8.30pm. Adult €25, Over 65 €20, Student €10 CASTELNUOVO GARFAGNANA Visits to the former psychiatric hospital 25-26 For all 3 operas, €70, €55, or €25. TEATRO ALFIERI May at 3pm, 4pm, 5pm. Reservations must be www.luccaoperafestival.com, in collaboration One-man show by comic Paolo Ruffin. 3 May made by 24 May by calling 0583 327243. with Assoc. Cluster. 9.15pm. Contribution €5. www.fondazionemariotobino.it

EXHIBITIONS

this Month

2013 SPECIAL RATES FOR GRAPEVINE CLIENTS*

autonoleggio - rent a carS.r.l.

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MONTECARLO with Zeffirelli and other directors and artists. T. Stratas, P. Domingo (1983). 5 June 9.30pm. Roberto Pasquinelli Art Studio, Via Roma 19. 23 March to 30 June. Mon. to Fri. 10am to 7pm, Lucca in Musica 0583 467264. Permanent exhibition, paintings inspired by Sat. and Sun. 10am to 8pm. Tel. 050 24225, the surrounding countryside. Tel. 0583 22451. www.palazzoblu.org www.robertopasquinelli.it

PRATO VIAREGGIO MUSEUM OF PALAZZO PRETORIO GAMC Gallery of Modern Art, Palazzo delle The art of gesso by Jacques Lipchitz. Until Viaggio in Italy (Rossellini) 7 May 8.30pm.Muse, Piazza Mazzini 22. 26 May. You can purchase a guide to the exhibit Iron Man 3, 10-11-12 May.La peste a Lucca (The plague in Lucca) Viani’s in English, Chinese or Italian (€12). Tel. 0574 Midnight's Children 13-14 May.masterpiece, not shown for 25 years, now on ex- 1835152, www.palazzopretorio.prato. Side Effects 15,16,17,19,20,21 May.hibit until Nov 30, together with Il Volto Santo Melancholia 21 May 8.30pm.and The blessing of the dead at sea. Tel. 0584 FLORENCE Verdi Gran Gala 16 May 8.45pm.581118, www.gamc.it PALAZZO STROZZI [email protected]

La Primavera del Rinascimento The www.odeonfirenze.com LIDO DI CAMAIORE Florentine Renaissance in the 1400's shown in RESIDENZA D'EPOCA HOTEL CLUB I PINI, Via the sculptures of Ghiberti, Donatello, Luca Roma 43. della Robbia and Michelozzi, and art by ARTinCLUB, art display in collaboration with Masaccio, Filippo Lippi, Andrea del Castagno, LUCCAthe Mercurio Contemporary Art Gallery. Paolo Uccello and many others. Until 18 3 May, Santa Croce, religious fair, flower and Opening 25 May 6.30pm. Until 21 Sept. August. Info. 055 2469600. plant sales in Lucca’s historic center: Piazzas S.

Giusto/ S. Giovanni/ S. Martino/ Del Giglio/ SERAVEZZA NATIONAL MUSEUM OF THE BARGELLO Antelminelli. 0583 4422 www.comune.lucca.itFONDAZIONE TERRE MEDICEE, PALAZZO Percorsi di Meraviglia: Works of the Bargello MEDICEO, Viale Amadei 358. restored. 28 March to 18 August. Open daily REAL COLLEGIO

10th international photography exhibit. Tra 8.15 to 5pm (closed 2nd and 4th Monday of Anteprima Vini della Costa Toscana 4,5,6 May surrealismo digitale e mondi di pietra (Be- each month). Info: Florence Museums, 055 11am to 7pm. €15 admission for general pub-tween digital surrealism and worlds of stone). 294883, www.polomuseale.firenze.it lic. www.anteprimavini.com Until 9 June. Artistic director Ivo Balderi. Bart www.realcollegio.it See page 2.Herreman's exhibit is Esefossevero (And if it GUCCI MUSEUM, Piazza della Signoria 10. were true). 80 works of fantasy and surrealism. Contemporary art Cindy Sherman 10 Jan to 9 PIAZZA NAPOLEONE

Thurs. to Sat. 3 to 8pm, Sun. 10 to 12am and 3 June. Un campione per amico, a day of sport and soli-to 8pm. Entrance €6 (€4 reduced). Tel. 0584 darity. 10 May. Meet Adriano Panatta, Jury 757443, or see the Seravezza Fotografia sites Chechi, Francesco Graziani, Andrea Lucchetta.on Twitter and Facebook.www.seravezzafotografia.it LUCCA Urban Golf 25-26 May. Begins 9am at Piazza

DIGITAL CINEMA ASTRA Piazza del Giglio 7. San Michele. [email protected] DEI MARMI Ponchielli, La Giocanda. National Opera of www.golfitaliano.itVILLA BERTELLI, Via Mazzini 200. Paris. 13 May 7.30pm. Rossini, La Donna del Ugo Guidi, Centenary of his Birth. Until 14 Lago. Royal Opera House London. 27 May CAPANNORIJuly, www.villabertelli.it, www.ugoguidi.it 7.45pm. €15, €12. The season ends on 25 June. Estate in Villa May to September. Music, liter-

Tel. 0583 496480, www.luccacinema.it ature and dance in historic villas. PISA www.comune.capannori.lu.itPALAZZO BLU Lungarno Gambacorti 9. CINEMA ITALIA, The Muse Clio and the Napoleonic Years: cel- Aida by C. Fracassi (1953) with Sofia Loren dou- MONTECARLO ebrating the famous painting by Artemisia bling with R. Tebaldi. 22 May 9.30pm. In collab- Via Vinaria wine festival. with open cantinas Gentileschi (1632) and other works never seen oration with Cineforum Ezechiele 25,17. Addio and wine tastings, Wine Bus service. Sat. 25 before in Italy. See article in April Grapevine. del Passato by M. Bellocchio (2002). 29 May May 4pm to 10 pm, Sun. 26 May noon to 8pm. Italian costumes by Anna Anni, who worked 9.30pm. La Traviata by Franco Zeffirelli, with [email protected] www.viavinaria.it

FAIRS AND TRADITIONAL EVENTS

CINEMA

FLORENCE PALAZZO STROZZI, Piazza degli Strozzi.Odeon Original Sound Tel. 055 295051. €7.50 (€6 reduced; 10 shows €50).

Via Santa Gemma Galgani.


What’s on

della Fratta 22, 55100 ~ Lucca tel 0583/953828 - Closed TuesdayVia Ammodonostro Ristorante

In the heart of Lucca's Centro Storico, between Piazza San Francesco and Piazza Anfiteatro,

you will find the restaurant Ammodonostro. A new, young, friendly eating place

where it will be our pleasure to create and offer you dishes of the highest quality.

At lunchtime, there are daily specialities - simple and quick - in addition to the menu.

Bookings welcomed.

www.ristoranteammodonostro.it [email protected]

This restaurant can accommodate individuals on gluten free diets

Live Jazz Nights

Thursdays:18 April23 May20 June

9pm to midnight

Reservations requestedSee our Facebook page:

Ristorante Ammodonostro

Live Jazz Nights


ALTOPASCIO (cheese) and Versilia wines. Music, art. 1,4,5 Universo, Piazza del Giglio, Lucca. Drinks, 9-10 May, Bread Festival in the center of town. May. 0584 752118, [email protected] snacks and discussion. 29 May at 8 pm. €12 0583 216525 (town offices). cover. Call Carolyn Slater, 338 4076568 or see

QUERCETA Lucca Lit on Google Sites.ANCHIANO (Borgo a Mozzano) Palio dei Micci (Donkey Race), 5 May. Sagra of Norwegian baccalà. 1 May. Guest of www.prolocoquerceta.it See page 19. FLORENCEhonor singer Fiordaliso. SYRACUSE UNIVERSITY, Piazza Savonarola 15.

PARCO DELLE APUANE Presentation of the book Amy Luckenbach: Love BAGNI DI LUCCA Tuscan Walking Festival, Tel. 0584 75821, and Life of Puppets and Dolls by author S. N. PRATOFIORITO, Gran Tour di Mountain Bike. www.tuscanywalkingfestival.it Kraczyna. May 16, 6pm, free. Tel. 339 7577623, 26 May. www.gtpratofiorito.it European Parks Day 24 May. www.parcapuane.it [email protected]. See pages 4-5.

PONTE A SERRAGLIO (Bagni di Lucca)PARCO VILLA FIORI Festa della Colombina 19 May. Painting and LUCCA Lucca Summer Festival: Diana Krall 6 July, other open-air games for children. Snacks in- AGORÀ LIBRARY Leonard Cohen 9 July, Nick Cave and the Bad cluding the traditional colombina (dove). Many events throughout the month for children Seeds 11 July, Thirty Seconds to Mars 13 July, Sponsored by Borgo degli Artisti and Auser. and adults, including reading in English for the The Killers with opening act Black Rebel www.borgodegliartisti.com children and discussions with adults about the Motorcycle Club (powerful post-punk and psy-

importance of reading aloud to children. chedelic rock n' roll band) 17 July, Mark Knopfler Summer Art Festival 19 July, Neil Young and Crazy Horse 25 July, www.artfestivalbagnidilucca.org See page 17. DIECIMO Sigur Ros 27 July. www.summer-festival.com

MARYLAND PLAY PARK

BARGA Children's fair, with fairytales. 12 May Torre del Lago Puccini Festival: 12 July to 9 Calendimaggio 11-12 May. Historic re- August: Rigoletto, Tosca, Turandot, Il Tabarro, enactment with flag-twirlers. Info: Comune di METELLO (Castelnuovo Garfagnana) Cavalleria Rusticana. Barga, Via di Mezzo 45. 0583.72471. Il Maggio per Bimbiwww.comune.barga.lu.it Young singers from Camporgiano, Piazza al Teatro del Giglio, 21 May 9pm, Verdi Tribute

Serchio and Pieve San Lorenzo, the afternoon Associazione Musicale Lucchese. SAN ROMANO DI GARFAGNANA of 26 May.(Orzaglia), Tiro della forma Sundays and holi- Paul McCartney and his band at Verona days from May to September, watch or partici- Arena. Paul has only 3 European destinations pate in the traditional tossing of cheeses. this year: Verona, Vienna, Warsaw. 25 June www.dovealucca.it LUCCA 9pm. Tickets €200 to €60. Now on sale at

TEATRO SAN GIROLAMO www.TicketOne.it, www.paulmccartney.com. GIUNCUGNANO Conferences of the Associazione Musicale MONTE PISANINO Minucciano-Gorfigliano. Lucchese (in Italian). Le Fiorite del Corpus Domini Ephemeral street 19 May, Fiera sotto il Pisanino Tel. 0583 11 May 5pm, Verdi and Wagner by G. Bietti. art made from colorful flowers or sawdust, for 610392, [email protected] 18 May 5pm, Wagner and his time by A. Batisti. the sacred Corpus Domini procession. Work is

25 May 5pm, Sigfried between romanticism done evenings after 9pm, with the procession the MASSACIUCCOLI (Massarosa) and realism by Enzo Restagno. next morning. Camaiore 8-9 June, Colle di Fish Sagra (fair), 25 April to 5 May. Compito first weekend in June, Camigliano (on

PALAZZO DUCALE, Sala Ademollo. the road to Villa Torrigiani) 2nd weekend in June. VIAREGGIO Seminar on Verdi, Otello and Falstaff, with Renzo Sapori e Saperi (Flavors and Traditions), 3 to 5 Cresti and C. Mezzasalma, including famous Luminara di Pisa 15 June, 70,000 candles May. Tel. 0584 962646. scenes from Verdi's operas. Free. 6 May 4pm. lighting up the night.

PIETRASANTA FONDAZIONE BANCA DEL MONTE AUDITORIUM, Gioco del Ponte Pisa 24 June, Battle of the CHIOSTRO DI SANT'AGOSTINO, Piazza Duomo. Piazza San Martino 7. Bridges dating from medieval times.Vini d'autore 2013. 70 producers of over 350 Associazione Clusterwines from all over Italy. 19-20 May. Presentation of a book about Gaetano Giani Il Canto del Maggio July and August, traditional

Luporini, written by Renzo Cresti. 18 May 5pm. folk theatre in the hills and mountains around VILLA LA VERSILIANA, Marina di Pietrasanta Performance by music students of the Liceo Lucca. See page 18.Country & Garden Show 25 April to 28 May. Musicale A. Passaglia. 24 May 5pm.

www.clustercompositorieuropei.it I Giovedì Musicali Concert Season, Tonfano, CANTINE BASILE/TERRE DEL CAPITANATA (Marina di Pietrasanta), Via Verdi 15, Teatro via Provinciale di Vallecchia, 260 (1500 meters Friends of the English Bookshop meet on the Sant'Antonio, 9.30pm. June 14 to September from town). Spring Fair: fave (beans), pecorino last Wednesday of each month. Hotel 13. Tel. 335 543579 or 347 1305764.

FOR CHILDREN COMING UP

MEETINGS AND TALKS

General markets Books and prints Arts & CraftsLucca, Via Bacchettoni Wed & Sat a.m. Lucca, Corte del Biancone Every day Lucca, Piazza San Giusto 25,26 MayS. Maria a Colle Thurs a.m. Pietrasanta 11,12 MayPonte a Moriano Tues a.m. Antiques Marina di Pietrasanta Every Wed p.m.S. Maria del Giudice Mon a.m. Lucca 18,19 May Castelnuovo Garfagnana 4,5 MayPietrasanta Thurs a.m. Forte dei Marmi 11,12 May Pieve Fosciana 26 MayMarina di Pietrasanta Sat a.m. Pietrasanta 5 MayTonfano Sat a.m. Barga 12 May Plants and flowersCastelnuovo Garfagnana Thurs a.m. Viareggio 25,26 May Lucca, Corso Garibaldi Every Friday a.m.Pescia Sat a.m. Pescia 26 May Pietrasanta 12 May

MarketsMarkets

this Month

would be in much deeper trouble. So ince Easter and the crisis in the Government might view bank Cyprus the world financial deposits as an open source of funds. markets have stalled. They S 3. Change your tax residency. I hear had been on a relatively sta-in my discussion with clients that their ble upward trend since Mario Draghi friends or contacts might be consider-made his now famous statement in ing this option. I would warn against it. July 2012 that the EU would do any-It is a creative but not very realistic thing needed to defend the Euro. option to try and establish residency in However, since then there has been your home country or another country plenty of water under the bridge and in the world, whilst maintaining your most recently the crisis in Cyprus and principal residence in Italy. Whilst you the ensuing events. The best way to might get away with it, bank records, describe it would be government spon-flight ticket information, utility bills, sored robbery. This has now been well information from neighbours, garden-documented and I don't need to go ers, the local supermarket etc would into too much detail. But, I do think it easily give your real status away if you is worth exploring the possible ways were ever investigated. to protect yourself if the Cypriot

4. Set up a Limited company. This effect spreads to Italy, since the EU have assets, but in the same way that the Italian would only really work for anyone who blatantly said that the Cypriot bail-out tax authorities have been adept at intro-has business interests in another country. package could be used as a template for ducing foreign assets taxes they have also If you had a business interest in Italy but other EU countries in distress. become quite adept at tracking down and wanted to place it in a U.K. Ltd. company, penalising those who have failed to declare If the EU crisis spreads to Italy in the as an example, then unless the business assets held overseas. If a one-off tax of near future, and it might well do so given had interests in the U.K. it would not cre-10% was introduced on savings over the political stalemate, then the EU has ate a favourable position for tax purposes €100,000, then heavier penalties might said that they could use the same treatment in Italy, since the centre of business activ-apply on unreported foreign assets discov-for depositors in Italian banks. So what ity generally determines the residency of ered later. can you do to protect yourself? the company. In addition it can be expen-2. Spread your money between differ-sive and time consuming to operate a Ltd. The options: ent Italian bank groups. This actually company and so would not be a suitable could work, depending on the depth of the 1. Don't hold so much money in Italy. solution for most. financial crisis. The current €100,000 If you are an expat with an overseas bank

5. Invest your money. Without wanting bank deposit guarantee in Italy (I use the account you might wish to hold money in to sound clichéd, given that investments word guarantee very lightly) is applied to an overseas account and only bring into are the lion's share of my work, I actually every €100,000 in separate bank groups. the country what you might need. The think that this is the best and most obvious So in theory this might work. However, as Italians have been quite adept in 2012 at solution. But every case needs to be stated above, how deeply the Italian tax introducing legislation to tax foreign assessed separately. The Government authorities would go to find easily avail-assets. I expect that if ever the EU crisis would likely apply another separate tax on able cash would depend on the depth of were to spread to Italy they would look to financial assets of all descriptions if they any banking crisis. Bear in mind that if the introduce further overseas asset taxes in were also to apply a bank deposit tax, but kind of financial crisis that hit Cyprus the same manner as domestic assets. given that investment monies are used by were ever to come to Italy, the WORLD You might choose not to report these corporations and sovereign governments around the world to stimulate growth then it would appear maniacal to tax these too hard. In addition, the investments might easily grow to cover any tax imposition, given a period of time. Bank interest at 1% to 2% is going to take more than a decade to cover the tax. Then there is inflation to think about as well. A sure-fire way to a decline in your future purchasing power!

Clearly, if the crisis hits Italy there is unlikely to be an escape from the tax author-ities. The EU's moment of truth is fast approaching and Mario Draghi will have to stand by his words. Action will be required to calm world markets. As a resident of Italy all you can really do is try to protect yourself in the most appropriate way possible – and HOPE. Gareth Horsfall is a Rome-based invest-ment counselor with Spectrum-IFA. [email protected]

The Cyprus Effect by Gareth Horsfall


BSchool Summer Camp10th June-2nd August

Engaging activities in Italian and English for children 3-11 in a caring and creative atmosphere

meet the BSchool Summer Camp Team

4th May at 17.00 and 21st May at 18.00at Lu.C.C.A. - Lucca Center of Contemporary Art

Via della Fratta, 36 - 55100 Lucca

agni di Lucca is set to host a brand new Art Festival this summer. In the sunny months of June, July, August and B September Ponte a Serraglio will be

filled with performance artists, painters, sculptors and photographers.

With the help of our Sindaco (mayor), our beauti-ful venues, such as the Teatro Accademico, the Casino, the Sala Parrocchiale and others will be filled with exciting performance artists.

As well as this, artists will be able to display their collections of art work in some of the unused shops in the main street of Ponte a Serraglio at no cost. One of the best aspects of this is that the local peo-ple are getting involved in the clean up and renova-tion of these lovely shops, some of which have been empty for decades.

It is absolutely wonderful to see people working together to make the village more beautiful and to provide a welcome space for the artists.

A particularly exciting part if the festival will be provided by the very talented (and charming) Ira Seidenstein. Ira has been involved in the theatre since 1973 as an actor, director, playwright and choreogra- Ira will be conducting a workshop the last week in August pher. He also has extensive experience in clown theatre. and the first week of September, with a performance to follow Among other things he has worked with the world renowned in conjunction with the Art Festival. He was in town recently Cirque du Soleil as a performer and teacher. to look at suitable venues, and was delighted with what Bagni

It is in his capacity as a teacher that he will be involved in the di Lucca has to offer. How lucky we are that someone of his cal-Art Festival. Ira has conducted workshops in London, Paris, ibre is involved with our very first Art Festival. Check out his Auckland , Barcelona and is now on his way to Vienna and website (www.iraseid.com); you will be impressed. Malmo, Sweden to continue. He has also conducted work- Top marks to Jaqueline and Jake for getting the festival off shops in Brisbane where he now lives. (It is indeed a small the ground. Everybody is invited to take part in whatever way world, he lives just minutes from our house in West End.) possible … as an artist, helper, renovator or perhaps, most

importantly as a spectator. Please look at the Art Festival website (www.artfestival

bagnidilucca.org) and be involved in this exciting event in Bagni di Lucca.

– by Debra Kolkka

See Debra's blogs: Bagni di Lucca and Beyond at bagnidilucca.wordpress.com and Bella Bagni di Lucca at www.bellabagnidilucca.com

Art and Renewal

Meet part of the organizing team. From the left: Jaqueline, Ira, our Sindaco Dottore Betti and Jake


his year there has been quite a battle for spring to emerge tri-umphant from the long-lasting T wintery weather. In ancient

times propitiatory dramatic rites were per-formed to ensure the defeat of the cold, dark months and restore abundant fertility to the earth. These rites are the foundation of classical Greek theatre and all that fol-lowed it. In the United Kingdom the Mummers' plays, traditionally performed on Plough Monday (the first Monday after Epiphany and the start of the agricul-tural year), are sometimes regarded as descendants of fecundity ceremonies.

In Italy the conflict between good and evil became transformed into a battle between Christians and infidels and drew heavily on chivalric romances and local boyant selves, full of ribbons, plumes and legends. This form of drama, known as Il shining helmets. On the greensward two Maggio, was once characteristic of large tables on opposite sides represent the parts of the country until it declined combatants' court. The audience, gathered through post-war economic development round the sylvan stage and amply when farming no longer was Italy's prime provided with vino and panini for their occupation. However, Il Maggio has been picnics, are most discerning and appear to kept alive by several devoted theatrical know exactly when to clap at some partic-and folklore groups who draw on the tradi- ularly clever combination of rhyme and tions of their forefathers and the Lucchese meaning or some well-thought out (rather unwilling) governor in the fortress is one of the few areas where one can wit- debacle in the story. For all that is sung is of nearby Castelnuovo Garfagnana in the fif-ness this fascinating custom performed in in rhyming extempore quatrains and the teenth century. (If you like going to the unadulterated form. actors are praised as much for their impro- Thursday market in Garfagnana's capital

The Canto del Maggio is sung, rather visational poetical skills as for their acting you will recognize the two recently-erected like an operatic recitative, to the accompa- abilities. statues illustrating characters from this clas-niment of violin and guitar. It is enacted A depiction we attended at Magnano, near sic epic of love and war.) with colourful costumes and highly- Corfino, included a lion, a damsel in dis- One might ask how a Maggio play can stylized gestures, and performed, open- tress, a serpent, an infidel, a sorcerer and an be enjoyed if one does not know either the air, mainly in the cool green glades of the armour-clad hero. We were reminded that language or the conventions. I reply that I upper Apennines between Tuscany and Ariosto (the author of Orlando Furioso, have been to a No play without knowing a Emilia during summer, usually in July and first published in Ferrara in 1516, which word of Japanese and a Balinese shadow August. No matter what story is repre- describes the campaigns of Charlemagne puppet show without knowing a word of sented, the costumes remain their flam- and Orlando against the Saracens) was Indonesian. In all cases, since the audience

is so involved in the perfor-mance, one can draw enjoy-ment from experiencing their interaction with the players, the sumptuous costumes and the Arcadian setting where it all takes place.

Last year performances hap-pened at such varied places as Partigliano, Nozzano Castello and Borgo a Mozzano so the chances are that there could be a Maggio occurring near you. For information about where per-formances will take place this summer do go to the web site at http://cantodelmaggio.info, which will also give you an English translation of one of the tales performed and lots more insight into this fascinating folk-art.

Il Canto di Maggio by Francis Pettitt


ust as Spring has set in, with its greens and blooms, the locals of historic Versilia in the northern coastal part of the Lucca province celebrate the Palio del Micci (miccio in ver-J nacular means donkey). The donkey is a humble, hard-

working animal and represents this rural area well. The Palio, an annual event with historic and folkloric characteristics, began in 1956 and has enjoyed a great popular following since then. It is a celebration of Spring and also an excuse for the locals to gather in a festive, competitive atmosphere after the long winter months. All volunteers, the local people work hard year round to make this event come to life on the first Sunday of May.

The geographical area is divided into eight folkloristic Contrade (neighbourhoods). These are: Cervia, Leon d'Oro, Lucertola, Madonnina, Ponte, Pozzo, Quercia and Ranocchio. The main event is an historically inspired parade in cos-tumes, with hundreds of participants displaying the colours of each Contrada. Every Contrada

actors are local volunteers, people of all ages and has its own musicians who provide the rhythm, walks of life. On the whole, thousands dress up and flag-wavers who entertain with their acro-and participate in the Palio. This event has been batic exploits as they lead the parade of costume-able to count on the renewed interest and support clad 'nobles' and 'peasants' into the Palio. Each of the local younger generations these past Contrada also proposes a theatrical play, which years. The Buon Riposo Stadium of Pozzi, at is enacted in the centre of the field while the Querceta, is always packed with spectators. same Contrada's parade is taking place. The

At the end of all the parades, shows and skillful exhibits by the musicians and the flag-wavers, a donkey race decides who wins the Palio. Each Contrada presents its donkey, often endowed with a picturesque name. As the race is about to begin, the event reaches a feverish pitch of excitement

since, as we know, donkeys are stubborn in nature, and not very inclined to run at the command and wish of their riders. As the race starts, the spectators cheer for their preferred Contrada. The don-keys make their way around the field several times, then finally the winning donkey and all the participants of the Contrada are awarded their prize. This prize, which is itself called the Palio, con-sists of an highly regarded hand-painted banner, kept by the win-ners until the following year's edition.

It is an event full of expectation and excitement and sometimes the odd squabble, but nonetheless colourful, as the Tuscans are known to be. For more information: www.prolocoquerceta.it

– Photographs by Gemma Giannotti


Querceta's Donkey Palio by Marisa Giannotti

VIA ACQUACALDA(opposite the Cantoni factory)

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of ancient myth, the human journey, the bal- La Rondine in HK is showing at:climes, La Rondine Gallery is ance of life; the artist’s hand representing off to Hong Kong with seven art- the spiritual beauty of our world culture. Gallery ZZHK F ists from a hidden thermal valley They come to recoup and create in the 2 Wa Lane, just off Hollywood Road

in Tuscany. They will exhibit at the ZZHK medieval mountain villages of Tuscany, Sheung WanGallery with its quirky Parisian character sometimes for months at a time, some- Hong Kong just off Hollywood Rd, Sheung Wan, 14 to times lost for years in total immersion. 14 to 28 May 2013. 27 May. These artists devote their lives to their Opening night

It’s amazing to have been offered this art. Their works are found all over the Tuesday 14 May, 6 pm opportunity to show our work at this high globe in major private collections, muse-time of the HK Basel Art Fair, when collec- ums and public spaces. Contact: tors are everywhere about town and all the La Rondine Gallery, an artist-run space, galleries are pumping, says Nunan. is part of a new global movement of art- Michael Cartwright

Our artists are great!! They range from 74 ists, self represented, committed to truth [email protected] years of experience and love for the arts to to art, passionate about and in love with 24 powerful years of age. They are photo- their art. Until 6 April, phone +39 33399 63134 graphers, sculptors, painters, drawers, cre- In celebration of our inaugural flight from 8 April, phone +852 6144 7500ating marble sculpture and bronzes from and for the opening night, Marc Danays, a the famed studios of Michelangelo’s high profile master mixologist, has cre- skype nunan-cartwright Pietrasanta; photography of mountain folk, ated the artists’ cocktail and called it La La Rondine Gallery reflections and exquisite atrophy; themes Rondine. www.larondinegallery.com

lying like swallows to warmer

La Rondine Flies to Hong Kong

The artists from left to right:Row 1: Sarah Danays, Sollai Cartwright, Shona Nunan, Kevan Halson Row 2: Michael Cartwright, Jacob Cartwright, Candido Martinelli


ear friends, after the capricious weather we've had since D January, we have lilac, which has been present in

finally arrived at May, one of the Italian gardens for many centu-most beautiful months of the year, ries. In spring this deciduous when the temperature and the plant with its light green heart-light are generally ideal for shaped leaves bursts out a beau-enjoying our gardens. Finally we tiful flowering of violet-colored can begin to shed some of the cones. Some varieties and clothes we wore all winter to hybrids have flowers in varying protect ourselves from the cold, shades of violet, or even white. so that we could care for our green The hearty lilac is easy to grow. spaces, and enjoy the gardens that Resistant to the cold, it prefers are gradually exploding with luminous positions, with some colors and perfumes welcoming shade during the hottest hours us into this green environment. of the day, and deep, slightly

humid, non-acidic soil. To maintain this As usual in this season, there is no lack of Already in April many weeds began grow-plant, simply prune after it flowers, trim-things to do. So, friends, as my grandfather ing in our gardens, where they are least ming back the vegetation and eliminating often used to say, first duty, then pleasure! desired. So it's good to take action now,

especially in the plant and flower beds any dried-up flowers. We continue to correctly and regularly cut where weeds can disturb plant growth, if Be careful not to prune the lilac in winter, the grass, prune the plants like mimosa and they get out of hand. There are two main because at this time the plant is already pre-forsythia that are no longer in flower, and tactics: the first is to intervene by hand, paring its flowers for the coming spring, bring out other plants that were kept in the pulling up weeds with the help of a little and if we prune then, the flowering will be greenhouse through the winter, positioning hoe. The second is to kill them with an greatly limited. Fertilizing should be done them in the garden. We fertilize and carry appropriate phosphate-based product at the end of winter or beginning of spring, out the necessary chemical treatments, from the garden center. Diluting this prod- by scattering a mix of organic and chemical because this month the parasites and fun-uct in water and using a classic hand fertilizer around the plant and breaking up guses that usually accompany changes in pump, we can eradicate weeds in pebbled the soil around its base. This plant can also temperature and humidity will begin to areas, in dry pavements, or in larger beds be grown in containers, as long as the pots appear. We thoroughly examine our irriga-where the distance between the plants are the right size, though in this case a little tion systems, checking filters, pumps and allows this approach. With this second more time is needed for its maintenance. other parts, so that we don't find ourselves method, it's important to be careful not to unprepared when the temperature rises and I suggest you try growing lilacs, either in spray weed-killer on our plants' leaves, we need to activate this system to bring the garden or in pots, because their beauty which could weaken the plants. For the water to our gardens. Don't forget to check is not only due to the romantic shape of the same reason, we shouldn't apply this treat-the smaller drip systems used to water potted leaves and lovely flowers. Even your nose ment on windy days. plants; these are perhaps even more impor- will be aware of their sweet presence!

tant because plants grown in containers suf- One of the many plants that has been Happy gardening to all! fer sooner, and more, from dry spells. brightening our gardens since late April is a Simone Lippi is at Il Cerchio Verde,

Another very important task to begin this gracious small to medium sized bush of www.ilcerchioverde.it Tel 0583 316713 or month is treatment for weed prevention. Asiatic origin, called Sirynga vulgaris, or 335 835 4437.


The Garden in May by Simone Lippi

POOL CONSTRUCTIO

N

POOL MAIN

TENANCE

POOL SHOP

POOL CONSTRUCTIO

N

POOL MAIN

TENANCE

POOL SHOP

LUNATA - LUCCA tel. 0583.429333 - fax 0583.429158

[email protected] www.systems-pool.com

Clues in English have answers in Italian and vice versa

April solution

Punson the Month

CruciwordCompiled by Helen Askham

Down

11

1 Verità (5)

2 See 20 across

3 Fortunato (5)

4 Paglia, cannuccia (5)

5 Spanish drink of wine and fruit;

bibita spagnola di vino e frutta (7)

6 Star (6)

Longobardo (7)

12 Rovinato (6)

14 Pigtail (7)

16 Joy (5)

17 Rosebeds (5)

18 The two halves of a football match (5)

Across

8

1 Asciugamano (5)

4 Mayday (3)

7 Lucca’s Walls (4)

The saint of Siena (8)

9 La nave che portò i Puritani in America (3,9)

10 Giocatore (6)

13 Astrale (6)

15 Chiefly, all the more (12)

19 Com’era intitolata la Thatcher (8)

20, 2 down Sia quel che sia (4,4,3)

21 Acido desossiribonucleico (3)

22 Cheerful people (5)

ENGLISH-SPEAKING PROFESSIONALS

AccountantPaola Girolami(Universities of Pisa and Bristol)Via Delle Ville 354/A, Luccatel 0583 471734 fax 0583 952349

ChiropractorsCynthia Christensen, DCVia Fillungo 9, Guamotel 0583 947117 cell 340 4142329

Dental SurgeonsDr. Barbato & Dr. Bertani

Dr. Rogier Staal(University of Amsterdam)Via Farnesi 25a, Luccatel and fax 0583 953633Dutch/English/Italian/French/German [email protected]

OdontostomatologistDr. Carlo G.F. MartiniVia Romana 231, 55100 Luccatel 0583 467975 [email protected]

LawyersAlberto Del CarloAdmitted to the Italian High Courts Piazzale Ricasoli, 241 - 55100 Luccatel. 0583 494952, fax 0583 492352 email [email protected] the real estate field, Mr. Del Carlo is in strict connection with surveyors (geometri) who speak English fluently.

Enrico LattanziViale Giacomo Puccini, 75 Luccatel 0583 584981 fax 0583 [email protected]

Ilaria Cipriani (Anglo/Italian)Via Ungaretti n. 144 55100 Luccatel +39 05831892444fax +39 [email protected]

PsychiatristDr Anna ChoubUS-trained (Mount Sinai Hospital, New York)psychopharmacologist and psychotherapist.Centrally located offices in Florence and Pisa. Cell [email protected]

Naturopathy, Shiatsu massage Enrico Chiesa Centro Dharma Yoga Via Pesciatina 385, Lucca Phone 347 7420449

Via Fillungo 91, 55100 Luccatel 0583 492853

Obstetrician GynaecologistPatrizia Monteleone, MD, PhDPrivate consultations at Lucca and Barga HospitalsMobile:+39 345 3437940


S H O W E R P A T T E RE A A O R O

R A I N I N U S U A L ED D N R M I

I S L A N D A S P R E EE R G ET E M P O B R U T T O

O P O NR A I N Y A N D D O G S

G S C D R OI N D O R A T A A C I D

E N T I K NA S S E S S E N E R G Y

1 2 3 4 5

6

7 8

9

10 11 12 13 14

15 16 17 18

19 20

21 22

HARPIST

trilingual (French, English, Italian), for private & public engagements,lessons. [email protected]. 333 8617962

HARPIST GRAPEVINE

Quality TranslationsInterpreting service

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House Sitting Couple

Big old 19th centuryhouse to renovate. Bargain price! ContactGrapevine. (Ref. 903)

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you learned languages atschool. Learning Italian or English with me isfun and provides you with the language skillsYOU need for YOUR situation. Susan GirelliHill, ex-UK university languages lecturer.Contact via www.susangirellihill.eu (Ref. 954)

Need to talk things over?Experienced Psychosynthesis counselor with stu-dio in Lucca centre offers sessions in English orItalian. Mary Campbell 340 5240334. (Ref. 957)

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oramic villa in a cork oak grove, 360 sqm on 2levels. 1st: large with fireplace, archway,2 bedrooms, bath, kitchen, storeroom, cantina.2nd: large with fireplace, live-in kitchen,4 bedrooms, 2 baths, service bath. Surroundingland 2300 sqm. Confidential negotiations. (Ref.929)

inside thehistoric walls of Lucca. In 500-year-old palaz-zo comprising entrance, 2 bed (possibly 3-4), 2bath, tower w study, separate living, dining,kitchen, laundry. 198 sqm. Safe, secure, quiet.Unfurnished or fully furnished. Photos /detailsat www.passioneitalia.info or contact owneron 340 8114903, [email protected] (Ref.943)

stone village home, 18 km.from Lucca walls. 2 to 3 bedrooms, 2 1/2 baths,cook’s kitchen and very large salon with a fire-place, this house has it all! 175,000 euro. Olivegrove available too, but separate. For more infocontact Karen at 001 2073807647 or [email protected] (Ref. 764)

in Lucca Centro Storico,120 sqm, €350,000. 2 bedrooms, 3 luxurious bath-rooms. Wood floors, beamed ceilings.

5 km south of Lucca. On two lev-els, 200 sqm, two apartments lovingly restoredthat can be used as one home or separately.Terracotta and oak floors, high beamed ceilings,several fireplaces, 2 bathrooms, 3-4 bedrooms(one 40 sqm with fireplace) and a huge com-pletely furnished kitchen. Beautiful south-facingterrace and garden with space for a swimmingpool. Country lane meandering towards the hills.An excellent restoration, not too isolated, idealfor professionals, families or a couple wanting tostart a bed and breakfast. Contact Grapevine forconfidential negotiations.

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, who has de-signed and maintained many beautiful gardens inTuscany, available to work in Lucca and Versilia.Please call Hugh Cook at 338 7900 232 [email protected] (Ref. 955)

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S. Ginese di Compito

Italian classes

Forget about how

Difficult Times?

House Sitting Couple

Big old 19th centuryhouse to renovate. Bargain price! ContactGrapevine. (Ref. 903)

for individuals or groups. Italianwoman speaking fluent English offers custom-ized Italian lessons in Lucca area. Maria, cell.348.8097524 (Ref. 967)

you learned languages atschool. Learning Italian or English with me isfun and provides you with the language skillsYOU need for YOUR situation. Susan GirelliHill, ex-UK university languages lecturer.Contact via www.susangirellihill.eu (Ref. 954)

Need to talk things over?Experienced Psychosynthesis counselor with stu-dio in Lucca centre offers sessions in English orItalian. Mary Campbell 340 5240334. (Ref. 957)

available. Would like yearin Lucca mid 2014. www.trustedhousesitter.co.uk(Ref. 933)

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, a short bike or car ride toLucca Centro. 2 apartments for rent at 500 eurosper month each, looking onto the hills, with bathson each floor. Ground floor: Kitchen-living-dining room and half bath. First floor: double bed-room and bath. Second floor: double bedroomand bath. Ideal for 2 singles or a young family, butsmall enough (approx. 55 sqm) for one person.Short or long contract, furnished.

, well restored and wellfurnished rustico available for vacation rentals(minimum 2 weeks), with panoramic viewstowards the south. 40 minutes from Pisa Airport.Kitchen with fireplace, living room with piano and2 sofas (one opens into a double bed), 3 bedroomsand bath upstairs, attic for storage. Total approx.120 sqm. Large private garden and private parkingfor several cars. Outdoor terrace with largesheltered table for summer dining. Room for anabove-ground pool if desired. Rates depend ondates and number of people (maximum 6),maximum €1500 for 2 weeks inAugust.

Lovely classic dining tableand buffet, beds, wood burning stove, etc., all asnew. Can view in Montecarlo May/June or pho-tographs available. Tel 0044 1513422281, oremail [email protected] (Ref. 968)

conditioning unit by Ferroli, 3years old. Excellent for an all-electric countryhome. 1 indoor unit with corresponding out-door unit ("split"). 500 euro negotiable. ContactGrapevine. (Ref. 964)

a Gruppo Acquisti Solidale(buying group) and receive your fruits andvegetables straight from the farm for a modestprice, even if you don't own a car? Call 3338617962.

San Lorenzo a Vaccoli

San Ginese di Compito

Furniture for sale!

Heating/air

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PROPERTY FOR SALE

Peaceful country villa in the Compitese hillswith 2 hectares of fruit and olive trees. In fact,two homes with two separate entrances: one 3bedrooms 3 baths, the other 3 bedrooms 2 baths.Beautifully furnished kitchens and fireplaces.Both in traditional Tuscan style with qualitybuilding materials. Enclosed 2-car garage,plenty of outdoor parking, gated property, out-door pizza oven, scenic terraces, plenty of spacefor a pool. Furnishings available; ready to movein condition. Confidential negotiations. ContactGrapevine. (Ref. 867)

(Ref. 960)

PROPERTY FOR RENT

LESSONS, TRANSLATIONS &COURSES

SERVICES/WORK

VARIOUS

servicingthe UK with regular trips every 2-3 weeks.

A

G ERAPEVIN May 2013 - 23

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Advertising with GrapevineClassified advertisements in Grapevine cost aslittle as €10 for 3 months (rate automatically cal-culated using on-line form). VAT included.

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220 mins. from Lucca, Tuscany, the six apartments in this historic 14th century building share 17,000 m of beautifully landscaped property, with individual areas for outdoor entertaining and a 6 x 12 mt. pool for all to share.

Perhaps its most charming aspect is 250 olive trees shared amongst the owners.

For more information, please contact us at: [email protected] or, +39 0583 330867 (owner contact)Or, visit our website for more information on this or other Anderò srl properties in Tuscany at:

il Borghettoin San Gennaro

2 SOLD

ONLY

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Tourist Special

Tourists on holiday in Barga have a 10% discount

on every hour of tennis played, with free use of

rackets and balls.

For information or reservations call 0583 724529

The Barga Tennis Club is in Via della Crocetta –

Piangrande is open every day from 9 am to 11 pm

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Support us with your tax declaration (5x1000, CUD, 730 or modello unico).

CF 9008680465

www.arcadellavalle.it

year xx no. 4 - may 2013 rapevin

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