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© Pia Simpson 2021 1 mycrochetchums.weebly.com

mycrochetchums

#lockdownamichallenge - No 1 - Frog

Yarn

Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.

30g approx Bright Green (MC)15 g approx Lime Green (CC1)Small amount White (CC2) for Eye BallsSmall amount Black (CC3) for Pupils and facial featuresSmall amount Orange/Red (CC4) for Bow Tie

100% Cotton. 25g = 57.5m

A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.

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Other Supplies

Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.

Hook

3 mm

Tension

Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.

Size 24 cm approx from top of eyes to bottom of feet.

Pattern Notes Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.

Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.

If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.

If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial at: https://mycrochetchums.weebly.com/magic-ring-photo-tutorial.html

The Frog is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.

Starting chains do not count in the total stitch count.

Change colour on the last yrh on last stitch of previous round.

Increasing and decreasing

The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:

Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.

Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.


https://mycrochetchums.weebly.com/magic-ring-photo-tutorial.html


UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations

If any of the abbreviations used in this pattern are unfamiliar, you can find a chart of UK Terms at https://mycrochetchums.weebly.com/uk-abbreviations.html

If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart at:https://mycrochetchums.weebly.com/ukus-crochet-terms.html

Body

Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts Rnd 6: Dc around. Rnd 7: [4dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts Rnds 8-11: Dc around. Rnd 12: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts Rnds 13-15: Dc around. Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts Rnds 17-19: Dc around. Rnd 20: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts Rnd 21: Dc around.

Fasten off leaving a long tail. Stuff body.

Head Stuff the head as you go.

With MC, chain 10.

Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 9 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 9 dc, 2 ch. 18 sts Rnd 2: [9 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch sp] twice. 24 sts

https://mycrochetchums.weebly.com/uk-abbreviations.html

https://mycrochetchums.weebly.com/ukus-crochet-terms.html



Eye Lid - make 2

Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts Rnd 3: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts Rnds 4-5: Dc around.

Fasten off leaving a long tail.

Belly Patch

Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts Rnd 6: Dc around.


Head continued

Rnd 3: *9 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, rep from * once more. 30 sts Rnd 4: *11 dc, [2 dc in next st] 2 times, 2dc, rep from * once more. 34 sts Rnd 5: *13 dc, [2 dc in next st] 2 times, 2 dc, rep from * once more. 38 sts Rnd 6-8: Dc around. Rnd 9: [15 dc, 2 dc2tog] twice. 34 sts Rnd 10: Dc around. Rnd 11: 1 dc2tog, 13 dc, 2 dc2tog, 13 dc, 1 dc2tog. 30 sts Rnd 12: Dc around. Rnd 13: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts Rnd 14: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts Rnd 15: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts Rnd 16: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts

Fasten off, weave in end.

Eye Ball - make 2 Rnd 1: With CC2 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts Rnds 3-5: Dc around. Rnd 6: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts

Fasten off, weave in end.

Pupil - make 2 Rnd 1: With CC3 and working in a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts Join with a slip st into top of first dc.




Hand with Arm - make 2

Stuff hand before you change colour. Lightly stuff arm.

With CC1, chain 7.

Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 6 dc, 2 ch. 12 sts Rnd 2: [6 dc, 1 dc in 2 ch-sp] 2 times. 14 sts Rnds 3-4: Dc around. Rnd 5: [1 dc2tog, 5 dc] twice. 12 sts Rnd 6: [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] twice. 10 sts Rnd 7: [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] twice. 8 sts

Change to MC. Stuff hand lightly.

Rnd 8-9: Dc around. Rnd 10: 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 7sts Rnds 11-12: Dc around. Rnd 13: 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 6 sts Rnds 14-15: Dc around.

Fasten off leaving a long tail. Stuff the bottom half of the arm lightly.

Using a length of MC with a yarn needle, sew through both thicknesses of the flattened arm about half way up it’s length, creating a seam parallel to the front edge of the hand closing the bottom half of the arm off from the top to create the bendable elbow. Weave in ends.

Stuff the top half of the arm.

Foot - make 2 With CC1, work Rnds 1-7of the Hand pattern.

Fasten off, lightly stuff foot, sew the opening closed, weave in end.

Leg - make 2 Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 8 dc. 8 sts Rnds 2-5: Dc around. Rnd 6: [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice. 6 sts Rnds 7-12: Dc around. Rnd 13: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] twice. 8 sts Rnds 14-17: Dc around.

Fasten off leaving a long tail. Stuff the bottom half of the leg lightly. Sew the foot onto the bottom of the leg.

Using a length of MC with a yarn needle, sew through both thicknesses of the flattened leg about half way up the leg, creating a seam parallel to the front edge of the foot, closing the bottom half of the leg off from the top to create the bendable knee. Weave in ends.

Stuff the top half of the leg.



Bow tie With CC4 chain 2

Row 1: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook. Turn. 1 st Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 2 sts Row 3: 1 ch, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st.Turn. 3 sts Row 4: 1 ch, 3 dc FLO.Turn. 3sts Row 5: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 2 sts Row 6: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 1 st Row 7; 1 ch, 1 dc. Turn. 1 st Row 8: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st.Turn. 2 sts Row 9: 1 ch, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st.Turn. 3sts Row 10: 1 ch, 3 dc FLO. Turn. 3 sts Row 11: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc.Turn. 2 sts Row 12: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 1 st Row 13: Row 7; 1 ch, 1 dc. Turn. 1 st


Making Up

Using photograph as a guide, use yarn needle and yarn tails to sew pieces together, pinning in place first.

Sew Belly Patch to Body and sew Body to Head.

Sew Eye Balls into Eye Lids then Pupils onto Eye Balls.

Sew top of Legs to Body and sew Arms onto sides of Body.

Fold the ends of the Bow tie into the centre and stitch in place - wrap yarn round middle of bow tie 3 times to create narrow central strip and then sew Bow Tie in place on seam between Body and Head.



Embroidered Details

Using photograph as a guide, embroider highlights on Pupils using CC2, Nostrils and Mouth on Head using CC3 and Star detail on Body using CC1 and CC4. Using CC4 whip stitch over the ends of the hands and feet, pulling the yarn up tightly to create the “fingers” and “toes”.

Terms of Use

I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.

If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.

Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.

The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!

About mycrochetchums

I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!

I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.

Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.

You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.

Happy Crocheting!

Pia x

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