xoxo, gertierita blouse instructions | 2 size chart: separate pattern pieces are included for b, c,...

RitaBlouse

SIZES 2-16in cup sizes

B, C, D & DD

R I TA B L O U S E I N S T R U C T I O N S | 2

SIZE CHART: Separate pattern pieces are included for B, C, D, and DD cup sizes.

2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

Bust B cup 31 in 78.7 cm

33 in 83.8 cm

35 in 88.9 cm

37 in 94 cm

39 in 99 cm

41 in 104.2 cm

43 in 109.2 cm

45 in 114.3 cm

Bust C cup 32 in 81.3 cm

34 in 86.4 cm

36 in 91.4 cm

38 in 96.5 cm

40 in 101.6 cm

42 in 106.7 cm

44 in 111.8 cm

46 in 116.8 cm

Bust D cup 33 in 83.8 cm

35 in 88.9 cm

37 in 94 cm

39 in 99 cm

41 in 104.2 cm

43 in 109.2 cm

45 in 114.3 cm

47 in 119.4 cm

Bust DD cup 34 in 86.4 cm

36 in 91.4 cm

38 in 96.5 cm

40 in 101.6 cm

42 in 106.7 cm

44 in 111.8 cm

46 in 116.8 cm

48 in 121.9 cm

Waist 24 in 61 cm

26 in 66 cm

28 in 71.1 cm

30 in76.2 cm

32 in 81.3 cm

34 in 86.4 cm

36 in 91.4 cm

38 in 96.5 cm

Hips 36 in 91.4 cm

38 in 96.5 cm

40 in 101.6 cm

42 in106.7 cm

44 in 111.8 cm

46 in 116.8 cm

48 in 121.9 cm

50 in 127 cm

FINISHED MEASUREMENT CHART: This blouse has a gathered top, fit-ted midriff, and flared hem. The pattern was designed to fit with about 4 inches of ease in the bust and 2 inches of ease in the waist. The hem sweep measurement hits at the high hip, roughly 7 inches (18 cm) below the natural waist.

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Underbust 26¼ in 66.7 cm

28¼ in 72 cm

30¼ in 76.8 cm

32¼ in 81.9 cm

34¼ in 87 cm

36¼ in 92 cm

38¼ in 97.2 cm

40¼ in 102.2 cm

B Cup Full Bust 35¾ in 90.8 cm

37½ in 98.4 cm

39½ in 100.3 cm

41½ in 105.4 cm

43½ 110.49 cm

45½ in 115.6 cm

47½ in 120.6 cm

49¼ 125.1 cm

C Cup Full Bust 36¾ in 93.3 cm

38¾ in 98.4 cm

40¾ in 103.5 cm

42½ in 108 cm

44½ in 113 cm

46½ in 118.1 cm

48½ in 123.2 cm

50½ in 128.3 cm

D Cup Full Bust 37¾ in 95.9 cm

39¾ in 101 cm

41¾ in 106 cm

43¾ in 111.1 cm

45¾ in 116.2 cm

47¾ in 121.3 cm

49¾ in 126.4 cm

51¾ in 131.4 cm

DD Cup Full Bust 38¾ in 98.4 cm

40¾ in 103.5 cm

42¾ in 108.6 cm

44¾ in 113.7 cm

46¾ in 118.7 cm

48½ in 123.2 cm

50½ in 128.3 cm

52½ in 133.4 cm

Waist 26½ in 67.3 cm

28½ in 72.4 cm

30½in 77.5 cm

32½ in 82.5 cm

34½ in 87.6 cm

36½ in 92.7 cm

38½ in 97.8 cm

40½ in 102.9 cm

Hem Sweep (hips) 36½ in 92.7 cm

38½ in 97.8 cm

40½ in 102.8 cm

42½ in 108 cm

44½ in 113 cm

46½ in 118.1 cm

48½ in 123.2 cm

50½ in 128.3 cm

REQUIRED YARDAGE: All pattern pieces are laid out in a “with nap” layout. If you use a directional print, you do not need to purchase extra fabric.

2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

45 in 1½ yd1.4 m

1½ yd1.4 m

1½ yd1.4 m

1½ yd1.4 m

1½ yd1.4 m

1½ yd 1.4 m

1½ yd 1.4 m

1½ yd 1.4 m

60 in 1 yd .9 m

1 yd .9 m

1 yd .9 m

1 yd .9 m

1 yd .9 m

1¼ yd 1.2 m

1¼ yd 1.2 m

1¼ yd1.2 m

View A Front

View B Front

View A Back

View B Back

FABRIC NOTES: lightweight fabrics like rayon challis, cotton lawn, batiste, poplin, and sateen work well for this blouse. If you’re feeling up for a more challenging fabric, try it in a lightweight silk like crepe de chine.

SUPPLIES:

• Fabric (see yardage chart)

• 2 yards of ¼-inch-wide (6 mm) braided elastic

• 12-inch (30-cm) invisible zipper

• thread to match your fabric

• about ¼ yard fusible interfacing or roll of 1¼-inch-wide (3 cm) fusible stay tape to stabilize zipper opening

• 3 small safety pins for threading elastic through casings

SKILL LEVEL:

RITA BLOUSE

© 2017 Charm Patterns by GertieFront envelope illustrations © 2017 Gemini.H

Technical illustrations © 2017 Robin Kataja-Blair

MADE IN THE USA CP101

This perfectly vintage peasant blouse makes me think of Hollywood starlet Rita Moreno, so I named the design for her. Pair it with a circle skirt or pedal pushers for that 1950s starlet look! It has a flattering elasticized neckline that can be worn on or off the shoulder, a choice of elasticized or flutter cap sleeves, a fitted midriff with princess seams, and an invisible side zipper for a smooth finish.Visit www.bygertie.com for lots of tips and tricks for making this pattern.

xoxo, Gertie

http://www.bygertie.com


RITA BLOUSESizes 2-16

KEY TO ILLUSTRATIONS

INDEX

Instructions 4

Pattern Pieces 9 B Cup 9-12, 15-16, 19-32 C Cup 11-16, 19-32 D Cup 13-16, 19-32 DD Cup 15-32

36 inch sheet 33

A0 sheet 34

PATTERN PIECES (and corresponding pages to print them individually)

1. Upper Front Blouse B Cup 9-12 C Cup 11-14 D Cup 13-16 DD Cup 17-20

2. Upper Back Blouse 19-22

3. Lower Center Front Blouse 21-22

4. Lower Side Front Blouse 23-24

5. Lower Center Back Blouse 15-16

6. Lower Side Back Blouse 25-28

7. Sleeve 27-32

Note: ⅝ inch (in) (1.5 cm) seam allowances are included on all pattern pieces.

Right side

Wrong side

with cup sizesB, C, D, DD

grainline arrow

zipper mark

SYMBOL KEY

HOW TO USE THIS PATTERNThe pattern pieces are tiled so you

can print them on Letter (8½x11) or A4 size paper. You can also send one of the last two pages of this PDF to a local printer to print on wide sheets (36" for U.S. or AO for international).

This pattern includes size layers. To get the best results, open this PDF in Acrobat Reader. (You can download Reader for free at Get.Adobe.com/reader.)

Open the Layers Palette (View> Show/Hide>Navigation Panes> Layers) and hide all of the layer(s) except for the ones you want to print by clicking on the eye icon.

The All Sizes layer has general pattern information and will always print.

Go to File>Print and change the page range to the pages you need for your cup size (see index). Change the Page Sizing settings to 100% or Actual Size. Test this after printing by measur-ing the 1" test box on the first page of the pattern pieces.

Cut apart any pattern pieces that share a page by cutting on the gray long dashed lines. Then fold back the

page margins on each page as directed.

Tape the pages together, butting up the folded page edges with the gray mar-gin lines, matching up the letters in gray boxes.7

6531 4

2

246810121416

PATTERN SIZE KEY

https://get.adobe.com/reader/


RITA BLOUSE SEWING INSTRUCTIONSCUTTING LAYOUTS

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45" WIDE FABRIC Sizes 2-8 (1½ yards)

60" WIDE FABRICSizes 2-10 (1 yard)

45" WIDE FABRICSizes 10-16 (1½ yards)

60" WIDE FABRICSizes 12-16 (1¼ yards)

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indicates wrong side of pattern

SEAM FINISHING

N O T E : If finishing seams with a serger, serge the following seam allowances (without trimming the edges) before starting construction:

• Side seams of front and back upper blouse

• Underarm seams (short vertical sides) of sleeves

• Princess and side seams of lower blouse pieces

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1 2 7

N O T E : When serging or stitching vertical seams, stitch directionally from the bottom of the piece to the top to avoid distorting the grain.

INSTRUCTIONS

N O T E : ⅝ inch (in) (1.5 cm) seam allowances are included on all pattern pieces. 1. Assemble the lower blouse: pin and stitch the Lower Side Front Blouse (4) pieces to the Lower Center Front Blouse (3), right sides together, match-ing notches. Repeat with the Lower Side Back Blouse (6) pieces and Lower Center Back Blouse (5). Press seam allowances open. Pin and stitch the lower front blouse unit to the lower back blouse unit at the right side seam, right sides together; leave the left side open. Press the right side seam allowances open.

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4. Join the upper and lower blouse units: pin the units right sides together, matching notches and side seams and adjusting gathers to match. Stitch. Finish the underbust seam allowances as one, trimming to ⅜ in (1 cm) first if finishing by a method other than serging (if serging, trim the seam allowances down as you serge). Press the seam toward the lower bodice.

5. Stabilize the zipper opening: fuse 1¼ in wide (3 cm) strips of fusible interfacing to the wrong side between the zipper circles on both sides of the opening.

2. Gather the upper blouse pieces: sew gathering stitches on the front and back lower edges between the notches and within the seam allowance, using two lines of machine stitching on the longest stitch length. The first line of gathering stitches should be ½ in (1.3 cm) from the raw edge, and the second line should be ¼ in (6 mm) from the raw edge. Pull up stitches to gather.

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3. Assemble the upper bodice: stitch Upper Front Blouse (1) to Upper Back Blouse (2), right sides to-gether, at the right side seam; leave the left side seam open. Press the right side seam allowances open.

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Use an invisible zipper foot to stitch the zipper in place, being sure that the zipper teeth are rolled out and the needle is landing in the “ditch” behind the teeth. Repeat with the right side of the zipper tape on the back side of the opening, first making sure that the underbust seam matches on either side of the zipper.

8. Finish the side seam: using a regular zipper foot, stitch the seam above the zipper opening. Start the stitching just above the zipper’s bottom stop, leaving a narrow gap between the two stitching rows (this prevents puckering).

6. Prepare the zipper: trim away the tape above the top zipper stops.

7. Insert the invisible zipper: press under the zipper opening seam allowances ⅝ in (1.5 cm) to set creases, then fold the seam allowances out again. Open the zipper and position it with the bottom stop at the upper zipper circle and the top stops at the lower zipper circle on the blouse right side (the zipper will be upside down in the opening). You can shorten the zipper if needed by trimming away from bottom of the zipper and then creating a new thread stop by machine zigzagging to either side of the teeth or hand stitching over the teeth. Pin the left side of the zipper tape, right side down, to the front side of the zipper opening, with the teeth along the crease.


12. Sew the casings/View B sleeve hem: edges-titch along the inner fold of each casing, leaving a ½ in (1.3 cm) gap between the beginning and end of the stitching as an opening for the elastic. On the neckline, leave the opening at a back sleeve seam. On the sleeves, leave the openings at the underarms.

N O T E : for View B, do not leave a gap on the sleeves. Instead, stitch all the way around, creating a hem—not a casing.

13. Cut the lengths of elastic for the casings, using these measurements:

2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16Neckline Elastic (cut 1)

35½ in

90.7 cm

36¾ in

93.3 cm

38 in

96.4 cm

39¼ in

99.7 cm

40½ in

102.9 cm

41¾ in

106 cm

43 in

109.2 cm

44½ in

113 cm

Sleeve Elastic (cut 2)

11¼ in

28.6 cm

11¾ in

29.8 cm

12½ in

31.8 cm

13 in

33 cm

13¾ in

34.9 cm

14½ in

36.8 cm

15 in

38.1 cm

15¾ in

40 cm

N O T E : These elastic lengths are a guide, and you may wish to adjust the fit as you go (see step 14). If your sleeves are usually too tight on you, it may be a good idea to cut the elastic an inch or two longer than suggested and check the fit as you sew.

9. Sew the sleeve: with the sleeve’s right sides together, stitch the underarm seam. Press open.

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10. Set the sleeves into the blouse: match the underarm and side seams and the sleeve notches to the bodice notches, right sides together. Stitch. Finish the seam allowances as one, trimming to ⅜ in (1 cm) first if not using a serger (if serging, trim the seam allowances down as you serge). Press the seam allowances down (toward blouse).

11. For both views, create the casings at the neckline and sleeves: stitch ¼ in (6 mm) from the edge all the way around the neckline and sleeve bot-tom edges. Using this stitching as a guide, fold and press the edge under ¼ in (6 mm) on all edges. The guide stitching should be turned to the inside of the blouse. Using a ruler, fold and press the edge under by ⅜ in (1 cm) to form the casings.


N O T E : For View B, cut and insert elastic for neck-line only, not sleeves.

Attach a safety pin to one end of the neckline elastic and thread it carefully through the casing, making sure not to twist the elastic. It’s a good idea to secure the loose end to the fabric with a pin. Be extra careful at the intersecting seams; it may take a few tries to find the right path for the elastic through the layers. Once the elastic is fully threaded, overlap the ends by ½ in (1.3 cm) and safetypin them together. Repeat the process for the sleeve elastics.

14. Test the fit: try on the blouse to be sure you’re happy with the elastic’s fit. You don’t want the elastic to be so snug that it pulls up the underbust seam, or so loose that it won’t stay on your shoulders. You can shorten the elastic if needed at this point.

15. Finish the elastic and casing: once you’re happy with the fit of the neckline and sleeve elastics, pull the safety-pinned ends out of the openings. With the elas-tic ends overlapped by ½ in (1.3 cm), sew the ends together with a machine zigzag stitch. Stitch the cas-ing openings closed by machine with a straight stitch (holding the elastic taut and being careful not to catch it in your stitching), and distribute the gathers evenly all the way around the casings.

© 2017 Charm Patterns by GertieFront envelope illustrations © 2017 Gemini.H

Technical illustrations © 2017 Robin Kataja-Blair

Graphic design by Lindsie BergevinMade in the USA

16. Hem the blouse: stitch ¼ in (6 mm) from the raw edge all the way around the lower edge of the blouse. Using this stitching as a guide, fold and press the edge under ¼ in (6 mm). The guide stitching should be turned just to the inside of the blouse. Next, fold and press the edge under by another ¼ in (6 mm) to form a doubled hem. (The zipper’s ends will be encased in the hem.) Edgestitch along the inner fold.

You’re done! Enjoy your fabulous new Rita Blouse. For more tips, tricks, and inspiration, visit www.bygertie.com.

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12

12

12

12

10

1010

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

8

8

8 8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

6

6

6 6

6

6

6

66

6

6

6

6

6

6

6

6

6

6

6

6

6

6

6

6

6

6

6

6

6

6

6

6

4

4

4 4

4

4

4

44

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

2

2

2 2

2

2

2

22

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

WAISTLINE

WAISTLINE

WA

IST

LIN

E

WA

IST

LIN

E

A0 PATTERN SHEET

xoxo, gertierita blouse instructions | 2 size chart: separate pattern pieces are included for b, c,...

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