xo level informative text - bureau national interprofessionnel du
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Entreprise certifiée AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 pour l'ensemble de ses activités.
23, Allées du Champ de Mars B.P. 18 16101 Cognac Cedex - FranceTél. 33 (0)5 45 35 60 00 Fax : 33 (0)5 45 82 86 54E-mail : [email protected] Internet : www.cognac.fr
AN INTERACTIVE GUIDE
Informational text
XO LEVELExpert
HISTORY OF COGNAC XO 01
Geological feature of the Cognac region
A rich geological history
Over millions of years the Cognac region has experienced a rich geological history comprising tectonic movements (faults, ground uplifts), successive periods of the ocean covering the land and receding and a succession of climates from tropical to glacial.
A subsoil rich in limestone, from successive marine sedimentation
During the long periods when the area was under water, primarily in the Mesozoic Era, deposits left from marine organisms formed the current limestone subsoil of the region.
Even today you can still find countless marine fossils in Cognac vineyards.
ALSO OF INTEREST
● The official site of the Système d’Information Régionale de Poitou-Charentes: www.sir-poitou-charentes.org (in French only)
● A rich geological history
● A subsoil rich in limestone, from successive marine sedimentation
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HISTORY OF COGNAC XO 02
Vineyards in the region
Vestiges of wine production in the Cognac region dating back to the 1st century AD
Until the end of the 1990s, it was believed that winegrowing was established in the Cognac region in the 3rd century AD.
This theory was based on ancient texts indicating that in 92 CE, under the reign of
Domitian, an imperial edict had forbidden winegrowing in Gaul and had only been revoked
in 280 by Emperor Probus.
However, archeological findings seem to prove the contrary. Today, scholars believe that
this edict was never actually promulgated. (Source: GRIS).
Archeological research in the Cognac region has provided proof that the first winegrowing plantations appeared at the end of the 1st century AD (In
particular, around Barbezieux and Saintes).
Furthermore, excavations have shown that the region boasted quite a number of agricultural buildings, in particular, ones related to winegrowing, which confirms wine production in the region as far back as the early Roman Empire.
Likewise in Cognac, vestiges of the 2nd and 3rd centuries have been brought to light: a large area for treading the grapes, numerous basins for receiving the harvest and extensive storage buildings.
The particularity of these buildings was that the wine was stored in barrels there, not in earthenware jars as in Southern France. Indeed, it is said that the Gauls invented barrel making. To this day, the craft remains a lively tradition in the Cognac region (source Christian Vernou).
● Vestiges of wine production in the Cognac region dating back to the 1st century AD
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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HISTORY OF COGNAC XO 03
The Middle Ages
The Charente basin: Trade-oriented from the start
The vineyards of Poitou produced wines that were appreciated in countries bordering the North Sea. They were transported on on Dutch ships, which had come seeking the salt from the coast.
As early as the Middle Ages, the Charente River gave birth to a mentality favouring international trade. Indeed, this navigable river was nicknamed the “walking Path” by the Romans, for it provided coastal ships easy access to the heart of the Poitou-Charentes.
From this period on, vineyards spread progressively deeper into the country, to the Saintonge and Angoumois regions.
The city of Cognac was already distinguishing itself for its wine trade, in addition to its salt storage activities dating back to the 11th century.
● The Charente basin: Trade-oriented from the start
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HISTORY OF COGNAC XO 04
From the 14th to the 16th century
Northern European countries buy the region’s famous wines
During the Renaissance, commerce experienced a significant boom.
People began to travel longer distances and more frequently.
The Dutch, very active traders who were called upon by Henri IV to help drain the Marais Poitevin (The marshlands of the Poitou region), were fond of the region’s goods: salt, Angoulême paper and Cognac wines.
Indeed, the Dutch vessels would come to Cognac and the ports of the Charente in search of the famous wines from the “Champagne” and the “Borderies”.
In the 16th century, the Dutch decide to distill the region’s wines to better preserve them
Dutch knowledge of the art of distillation encouraged them to distill the wines upon arrival in Holland. Indeed, the region’s low-alcohol wines suffered from the long voyage overseas and distillation allowed preserving them.
The result was a success. They named it “brandwijn”— burnt wine — which would become “brandy”, a spirit made from wine. They drank it mixed with water.
Later, the Dutch decided it was more economical to have the wine distilled where it was produced, reducing the volume to transport. It was then that they installed the first distilleries in the region. They required the stills be made out of copper from Amsterdam. This was one of the first
technology transfers in history.
● Northern European countries buy the region’s famous wines
● href="#point_2">In the 16th century, the Dutch decide to distill the region’s wines to better preserve them
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HISTORY OF COGNAC XO 05
17th century
Double distillation makes its appearance
At the beginning of the 17th century, double distillation makes its appearance in the region, which will enable the product to travel as a stable spirit, much more concentrated than the “brandwijn.”
The first stills, installed in the Charente by the Dutch, would be progressively modified; the French gradually mastered and improved the technique.
Until the beginning of the 17th century, distillation consisted of only one heating, which
obtained the ”brouillis,” a liquid drunk mixed with aromatic herbs.
Legend has it that double distillation was invented by the Chevalier de la Croix Maron,
Lord of Segonzac, a pious man who dreamt that Satan was trying to damn his soul. In his
dream, he saw himself in the Devil’s cauldron, but his faith was so deeply anchored in his
soul that it resisted the first “cooking”. To achieve his ends, the Devil was forced to “cook”
it again. When he woke up, the Chevalier had the idea of extracting the “soul” of eau-de-
vie with a second distillation.
This is how the legend on the origin of the discovery of double distillation for Cognac eaux-
de-vie was perpetuated in the region.
Delays in loading the boats, resulted in the discovery that the spirit improved with age in oak casks made from wood from the neighbouring Limousin forest and that it could be drunk straight. The first Cognac house was established in 1643: Augier.
● Double distillation makes its appearance
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HISTORY OF COGNAC XO 06
18th century
Diderot lauds Cognac
Diderot, the great Enlightenment philosopher, mentions Cognac in his famous Encyclopedia as “renowned for its brandies”.
The first Cognac companies
Starting at the end of the 17th century and more markedly during the next century, the market began to take shape and Cognac companies were created in the main cities of the region. These merchants, mostly from the British Isles, collected eaux-de-vie from local growers and sent them off to the countries of Northern Europe. (Martell 1715, Rémy Martin 1724, Delamain
1759, Hennessy 1765, Hine 1791, Otard 1795...).
Establishment of regular trade with Northern Europe
Regular trade quickly developed with European buyers and new relations developed with two new markets: America and the Far East.
● Diderot lauds Cognac
● The first Cognac companies
● Establishment of regular trade with Northern Europe
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HISTORY OF COGNAC XO 07
19th century
Birth of numerous Cognac houses
In the 19th century, France witnessed seven political regimes and two revolutions, leaving the country with a certain sense of instability. Periods of economic liberalism alternated with periods of protectionism. It was during this century that many of the Cognac houses were established(Bisquit 1819, Courvoisier 1843, Royer 1853, Meukow 1862, Camus et Hardy 1863…)
At the time, France was drawing its resources from its colonial conquests, which pushed back
the first industrial revolution in France until after Napoleon’s abdication.
During the 19th century, Cognac shipping experienced a real burst in growth. (Going from a little more than 36,000 hl In volume in 1799 to more than 478,000 hl in 1879).
The growth was erratic and while Cognac shipments took a plunge after the French Revolution, they reached new heights in 1807. On the other hand, Napoleon’s continental blockade went hand-in-hand with the collapse of Cognac sales as of 1808.
Booming growth for Cognac under Napoleon III
It would not be until 1860, with the signing of a free trade agreement between England and France, driven by Napoleon III, that Cognac sales would take off. By 1879 they had tripled, from less than 150,000 hl in 1860.
Beginning of shipping in bottles
In the middle of the 19th century, Cognac houses began to ship the spirit in bottles rather than casks, in order to promote their “brand”.
This new form of trade in turn gave birth to related industries: glassmaking(indeed, in 1885 Claude Boucher began working on mechanizing bottle manufacturing
procedures at the St Martin glass factory in Cognac), case, cork-making and printing.
1877: 282,667 ha of vineyards
In 1877, the vineyards covered 282,667 hectares (an area larger than Luxembourg).
● Birth of numerous Cognac houses
● Booming growth for Cognac under Napoleon III
● Beginning of shipping in bottles
● 1877 : 282 667 ha de vignoble
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HISTORY OF COGNAC XO 08
End of the 19th century: The phylloxera crisis
End of the 19th century, phylloxera destroys the majority of the vineyards
Around 1875 phylloxera appears in the Cognac region. Phylloxera is an insect of the hemiptera family and one of its species, Phylloxera Vastatrix, attacks grapevines and sucks the sap from their roots.
It would destroy the greater part of the vineyard (around 1895 there would be no more than 42,581 hectares left under vine, compared
with the 280,000 ha in 1877).
Birth of the first interprofessional initiative in Cognac: The Viticulture Committee in 1888
This tragedy gave birth to the Viticulture Committee in 1888, which would then become the Station Viticole in 1892.
In 1887, a French delegation led by Pierre Viala, Professor at the Montpellier School of Agriculture, was sent to the United States in search of phylloxera-resistant grapevines.
The delegation’s aim was to bring back seedlings on which to graft French varieties, to benefit from the American grapevines’ resistance to phylloxera, while retaining the quality produced by French varieties.
The first attempts were catastrophic. The first rootstocks brought over could not
withstand the chalky soil of the region. New rootstocks resistant to chlorosis had to be
found.
It took many years of hard work and patience for the economy of the region to recover.
● End of the 19th century, phylloxera destroys the majority of the vineyards
● Birth of the first interprofessional initiative in Cognac: The Viticulture Committee in 1888
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HISTORY OF COGNAC XO 09
20th century
Replanting of the vineyards with American rootstocksNietzsche said: “What doesn’t kill me, makes me stronger”.
The vineyards were replanted with American rootstocks immune to phylloxera.
Traditional varieties(Colombard, Folle Blanche, etc.) were weakened by the grafting process and were gradually replaced by the more resistant Ugni Blanc, now used for more than 98% of Cognac production.
Establishment of Cognac legislation to preserve longstanding local use
Legislation to preserve longstanding local use is put in place :
● 1st May, 1909: Geographic production zone is delimited.● As of 1936, Cognac is recognised as an “Appellation d'Origine
Contrôlée” (Controlled Appellation of Origin).● In 1938, regional Appellations (crus) are delimited.
1946: Birth of the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac
During World War II, the “Wine and Eaux-de-Vie Distribution Bureau” is created to protect Cognac stocks.
With the liberation of France in 1946, this body was replaced by the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac, which joined together with the Station Viticole in 1948.
All stages in Cognac production are henceforth subject to regulations aimed at establishing production rules and protecting this product of ever-increasing fame.
● Replanting of the vineyards with American rootstocks
● Establishment of Cognac legislation to preserve longstanding local use
● 1946: Birth of the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac
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HISTORY OF COGNAC XO 10
HISTORY OF COGNAC VSOP 04 HISTORY OF COGNAC VS 02
21st century
Cognac is an international luxury product. More than 90% is exported
Historically an export product, 90% of Cognac is now shipped to foreign countries (96% in 2008).
With a presence on every continent, Cognac is shipped to nearly 160 countries
Today, Cognac is shipped to nearly 160 countries.
From the Far East to the Americas by way of Europe, Cognac is synonymous with exceptional quality; it is a symbol of France and its art de vivre.
ALSO OF INTEREST
● Cognac markets on the BNIC website: www.cognac.fr
● Cognac is an international luxury product. More than 90% is exported
● With a presence on every continent, Cognac is shipped to nearly 160 countries
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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AOC COGNAC XO 01
AOC COGNAC VSOP 01 AOC COGNAC VS 01
The Cognac Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée
The conditions of the Cognac Appellation will be developed in the following chapters. At
this point in the presentation, we recommend that you only discuss the main points that
appear on the screen. A full description detailing the rules of the Appellation is given as an
appendix.This will help you add to your presentation by referring to the official texts as
the chapters progress.
The Cognac Appellation is strictly regulated to follow longstanding local useA chain is only as strong as its weakest link. Every stage plays a determining role in the quality of the Cognac.
The Cognac AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, meaning “Controlled Appellation of Origin”) is strictly regulated to follow longstanding local use.
Three main, national, legal texts are at the origin of the AOC Cognac: 1st May 1909, 15th May 1936, 13th January 1938
The specifications for the AOC Cognac is sanctioned by a decree. They define:
● the name of the Appellation; ● the description of the AOC Cognac; ● the definiton of the geographical area; ● the description of production methods; ● the origins; ● mandatory mentions.
It specifically brings together the provisions defined in the three main, national, legal texts that relate to Cognac:
● The Decree of 1st May, 1909 delimits the Cognac production area;
● The Decree of 15th May, 1936 modified defines the following Appellations: “Cognac”, “Eau-de-vie de Cognac” and “Eau-de-vie des Charentes”;
● The Decree of 13th January, 1938 defines the production areas within the Delimited Region for each of the Regional Appellations. NOTA BENE : Only the official decree confirming the specifications for the AOC Cognac can be considered valid. These are available on our web site, www.cognac.fr.
AOC COGNAC XO 01, VSOP 01, VS 01 page 1/2
● The Cognac Appellation is strictly regulated to follow longstanding local use
● Three main, national, legal texts are at the origin of the AOC Cognac: - 1st May 1909 - 5th May 1936 - 13th January 1938
OTHER OFFICIAL TEXTS
● Modified Order of 27th July 2003 relative to the application of article 302G of the general tax code concerning the ageing of Cognac eaux-de vie;
● EC Regulation 110/2008 of 15th January 2008 concerning the definition, designation, presentation, labelling and protection of geographical place of spirits distilled from wine.
ALSO OF INTEREST
● Details of the appellation in the appendix● Specifications for the Cognac appellation in the media library● The “official texts” section in the media library ● The “Understanding a Cognac label” section
AOC COGNAC XO 01, VSOP 01, VS 01 page 2/2
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THE VINEYARDS XO 01
THE VINEYARDS VSOP 01 THE VINEYARDS VS 01
The Delimited Region
Approximately 75,000 ha of grapevines for Cognac production
The vineyards dedicated to Cognac production cover approximately 75,000 ha. The production area extends across four French departments: Charente-Maritime, a large part of the Charente and several villages in the Dordogne and the Deux-Sèvres.
The total surface area of the Delimited Region is in excess of a million hectares; the
agricultural surface area is in the order of 700,000 ha and the total vineyard area covers
about 79,000 ha, 95% of which is used in Cognac production (about 75,000 ha ).
The rest is used for making red or white table wine, sparkling wine and grape juice.
The region is divided into 6 crus
In the mid-19th century, Henri Coquand (1811-1881), a professor of geology, studied the region’s geology and, working with a taster, developed and confirmed a soil classification based on the quality of eau-de-vie that each soil could produce.
Their work led to the delimitation of different crus, or growing districts, around 1860. This would serve as a basis for the 1938 Decree, delimiting the crus we know today (the regional Appellations).
ALSO OF INTEREST
● Details of the appellation in the appendix
● Approximately 75,000 ha of grapevines for Cognac production
● The region is divided into 6 crus
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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THE VINEYARDS XO 02
THE VINEYARDS VSOP 02
The crus
Lead the demonstration
Click in the box “Départements”
The Appellation area covers all of the Charente-Maritime, a large part of Charente and a small number of villages in Dordogne and the Deux-Sèvres.
unclick “Départements” and check the box “Rivers”
Rivers helped delimit the crus. You can see, for example, the natural delimitation of Grande Champagne, which is located between the Charente River and its tributary the Né.
click Grande Champagne
Grande Champagne, with more than 13,200 ha under vine to produce white wines that go into Cognac, yields exceptionally fine, light eaux-de-vie with a predominantly floral bouquet, that require long ageing in oak casks to achieve full maturity. Eaux-de-vie that come exclusively from this cru may carry the Appellation
Contrôlée “Cognac Grande Champagne” or “Cognac Grande Fine
Champagne”.
click Petite Champagne
Petite Champagne is planted with more than 15,200 ha of vines to produce white wines that go into Cognac. These Petite Champagne eaux-de-vie are very similar to those of Grande Champagne, but without their exceptional finesse. Eaux-de-vie that come exclusively from this cru may carry the Appellation
Contrôlée “Cognac Petite Champagne” or “Cognac Petite Fine Champagne”.
NOTE● The word Champagne:
In Old French, “Champaigne” which comes from the Latin “campania”,
meaning country or open field (as opposed to wooded areas).
,
● The Fine Champagne Appellation
Fine Champagne is not a cru, but rather a blend of wine spirits that come
from the complementary geographical denominations “Grande
Champagne” and “Petite Champagne”, with at least 50% from “Grande
Champagne”
THE VINEYARDS XO 02, VSOP 02 page 1/2
click Borderies (You can either uncheck the previous crus or leave them open)
The Borderies This is the smallest of the six crus, with 4,000 ha of vines devoted to Cognac. The Borderies produce fine, round eaux-de-vie that are smooth and scented with an aroma of violets. They have the reputation of reaching optimum quality after a shorter maturation period than Petite and Grande Champagne eaux-de-vie. Eaux-de-vie that come exclusively from this cru may carry the Appellation
Contrôlée “Cognac Borderies”.
click Fins Bois
The Fins Bois surround the three previous crus and are planted with 31,200 ha of vines for Cognac. They produce round, supple eaux-de-vie that age fairly quickly, with an aroma reminiscent of freshly pressed grapes. Eaux-de-vie that come exclusively from this cru may carry the Appellation
Contrôlée “Cognac Fins Bois”.
click Bons Bois
The Bons Bois represent 9,300 ha of vines for Cognac white wines. The Bons Bois produce eaux-de-vie that age quickly. Eaux-de-vie that come exclusively from this cru may carry the Appellation
Contrôlée “Cognac Bons Bois”.
click Bois Ordinaires
The Bois à Terroir or Bois Ordinaires This cru presents less than 1,100 ha (2,718) of vines for producing Cognac white wines. The eaux-de-vie it yields have similar characteristics to those of the Bons Bois, with more rustic terroir character.
THE VINEYARDS XO 02, VSOP 02 page 2/2
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THE VINEYARDS XO 03
Vine cultivation rate
Vineyards concentrated around the city of Cognac
The area surrounding the city of Cognac is where the greatest concentration of vines is found.
There is said to be a high rate of vine cultivation (as a percentage of the total agricultural area) in the Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne and Borderies crus, as well as on the islands of Ré and Oléron.
● Vineyards concentrated around the city of Cognac
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THE VINEYARDS XO 04
Breakdown of Cognac production by cru
Comment on the visual
● Grande Champagne (about 18%) + Petite Champagne (about 21%) + Borderies (6%) = about 45% of Cognac production
● Fins Bois = about 42%● Bons Bois = about 12%● Bois Ordinaires = about 1%
Source: BNIC. December 2008
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THE VINEYARDS XO 05
The natural setting: Climate
A privileged geographic location
The Cognac Delimited Region is located in the north of the Aquitaine basin, along the Atlantic Ocean.
It reaches west to the Gironde estuary and the islands of Ré and Oléron and east to Angoulême and the foothills of the Massif Central.
The countryside is made up of plains and low, rolling hills.
The Charente River crosses the region, with smaller rivers running into it: the Né, the Antenne and the Seugne.
An even, temperate oceanic climate
The oceanic climate is temperate and fairly even across the area, except along the coast.
Due to proximity to the ocean, rain can fall at any time of the year (although it tends to be heavier during winter).
Consequently, drought is rare and the vines have a consistent source of water.
The average annual temperature is about 13°C (55°F), with relatively mild winters.
Temperatures are high enough to ensure grapes reach full maturity, but not so hot as to burn them.
● A privileged geographic location
● An even, temperate oceanic climate
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THE VINEYARDS XO 06
The natural setting: Soil types
Various soil types, but mostly argilo-calcareous
Five major soil types are found in Cognac, but the most widespread is argilo-calcareous (composed of clay and limestone). Comment on photos.
The Champagnes
These are fairly shallow soils of clay and limestone on top of soft chalk from the Cretaceous period. From the surface down, the limestone content is very high.
Montmorillonite clay provides these fertile soils with good structure and water reserves.
Despite their shallow depth, they do not suffer from lack of water, as the sub-soil acts as a giant sponge through which water may slowly rise as the summer dryness increases.
The word “champagne”, in Old French, “champaigne”—which comes from the Latin
“campania”—means country or open field (as opposed to wooded areas).
The Groies
A large part of the Fins Bois appellation is covered with shallow soils of clay and limestone called “groies” that are similar to those of the Champagne crus, except for their red colour and hard stones from the Jurassic period.
Clay in the “Pays bas” district
In a low-lying area north of Cognac called the “Pays bas”, the soils are very rich in clay (up to 60% clay).
As the insect is not fond of water, the heavy, humid soils of the “Pays bas” saved a small portion of Cognac’s vineyards during the phylloxera crisis in 1875.
THE VINEYARDS XO 13 page 1/2
● Various soil types, but mostly argilo-calcareous
● The Champagnes
● The Groies
● Clay in the “Pays bas” district
● Clay and flint
● Sand
Clay and flint
Soils to the northwest of Cognac are composed mostly of clay and flint stones, resulting from the decarbonatation of limestone. A large portion of the vineyards in Charente-Maritime are composed of loamy soil called “doucins”.
Sand
Sandy soils can be found in coastal areas, in certain valleys and in the entire southern portion of the vineyards. This sand was brought down from the Massif Central mountain range by erosion. In these areas, vineyards are dispersed among other crops, grazing fields and pine and chestnut forests.
THE VINEYARDS XO 06 page 2/2
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THE VINEYARDS XO 07
THE VINEYARDS VSOP 03
Permitted white grape varieties in Cognac
Colombard, Folle Blanche, Montils, Ugni Blanc, Sémillon
The specifications for the AOC Cognac list the white varieties that produce wines for distillation into eaux-de-vie that are permitted in the “Cognac” Appellations Contrôlées (“Eau-de-vie de Cognac” and “Eau-de-vie des Charentes”): Colombard, Folle Blanche, Montils, Ugni Blanc, Sémillon
In addition: Folignan
In addition, Folignan represents a maximum of 10% of the planting (per grower).
ALSO OF INTEREST
● Details of the appellation in the appendix
● Colombard, Folle Blanche, Montils, Ugni Blanc, Sémillon
● In addition: Folignan
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THE VINEYARDS XO 08
THE VINEYARDS VSOP 04
Grape varieties
A predominant variety: Ugni Blanc comprises more than 98% of Cognac vineyards
Ugni Blanc is more resistant than traditional varieties used before the phylloxera crisis (Colombard, Folle Blanche), which were weakened by grafting. It currently makes up more than 98% of Cognac vineyards.
Since the phylloxera crisis at the end of the 19th century, all varieties used are grafted
onto different rootstocks chosen according to soil type.
Used for its resistance to disease and its high acidity. Low in sugar, it gives low alcohol wines
Ugni Blanc is of Italian origin (Trebbiano Toscano).
It produces high yields (120-130 hl vol/ha) and is particularly resistant to grey rot.
A late-budding variety, it is at its northern maturation limit in the Poitou-Charentes region. The grape’s high yield and late maturation offer numerous advantages in producing wines for distillation. They are low in alcohol and acidic – two essential elements in the ultimate quality of the Cognac.
The acidity preserves the wine naturally during the winter months before distillation and the low level of alcohol enables greater concentration of the aromas present in the wines.
● A predominant variety: Ugni Blanc comprises more than 98% of Cognac vineyards
● Used for its resistance to disease and its high acidity.Low in sugar, it gives low alcohol wines
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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THE VINEYARDS XO 09
Grape varieties
Other varieties used: Colombard Folle Blanche Montils Folignan
The other varieties used are:
Colombard: which also produces regional table wines
Folle Blanche: primary variety used before the phylloxera crisis, abandoned for its
sensitivity to grey rot after grafting
Montils: local variety also used in producing Pineau des Charentes
Folignan: new variety created by crossing Ugni Blanc with Folle Blanche. It combines the attribute of both parents: moderate yield, earlier-ripening
than Ugni Blanc. It is a little more sensitive to grey rot, but produces more complex
eaux-de-vie. It was integrated into the appellation decree in 2005.
Although Sémillon is a grape variety authorised by the decree, it is not currently used
to make Cognac.
● Other varieties used: Colombard Folle Blanche Montils Folignan
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THE VINEYARDS XO 10
THE VINEYARDS VSOP 05
Grapevine growth cycle
You can let the presentation run by itself, or stop it at any time if you would
like to comment on certain points.
This presentation reviews the key stages in the grapevine growth cycle.
● Budbreak (April): Buds open
● Visible clusters: First hint of clusters
● Distinct clusters (May): Separation of clusters
● Flowering (June): The vine blooms. Flowering lasts less than one week
● Setting of the vine (June): Transformation of flowers into tiny berries
● Closing of the cluster (July): Cluster becomes more dense, berries
increase in size
● Veraison (August): Berries become translucent
● Maturation – harvest (September): Grapes are ready to be harvested
● Shedding of leaves (November)
● Dormant period
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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THE VINEYARDS XO 11
Establishing vineyards—Planting
Planting takes place in spring
Here, we focus on managing vineyards that will produce wines for distillation. Parcels destined for producing table wines or must for Pineau des Charentes are managed
somewhat differently: higher vine density, limited load and yields, green harvesting, etc.
Before planting, the soil is prepared to create a favorable environment for the seedling’s development. The soil is plowed and then analysed so that any imbalances can be corrected.
In the spring, naked-root seedlings (or, more rarely, potted seedlings) are planted.
Young parcels receive attentive care: watering, weeding by hand between vine stocks, staking, protection against rabbits and other rodents etc.
The third year of growth (counting the year of planting as the first), the young vines are considered established and begin to produce.
Watering vines under production is prohibited. To be entitled to the appellation d'origine contrôlée “Cognac”, wines distilled to make wine
spirits must be produced from vines no younger than two years after the year in which
they were planted, which must be before the 31st of July.
Choice of rootstock depends primarily on two criteria: limestone content of the soil fertility of the soil according to desired production level
The choice of rootstock depends primarily on two criteria: the limestone content and the fertility of the soil.
Soil analysis also enables an assessment of the soil’s tendency to induce chlorosis, which will determine which rootstock to use (chlorosis is an iron
deficiency that causes yellowing of the grape leaves).
The primary rootstocks used in the Cognac vineyard are usually limestone-tolerant and make the scion fairly vigorous. RSB is the main rootstock. RSB is not widely used in other regions
Other rootstocks used are Fercal and 333 EM. 41B, often used in the past, is barely used
at all today. In less chalky areas, SO4, P1103 and even 3309 or 101-14 can be found.
THE VINEYARDS XO 11 page 1/2
● Planting takes place in spring
● Choice of rootstock depends primarily on two criteria: limestone content of the soil fertility of the soil according to desired production level
In instances where vines were previously planted in a parcel, it is best to wait several
years before replanting, which is difficult for growers who only grow grapes for wine. It is
sometimes necessary to disinfect the soil to prevent the new parcel from becoming
infected with viruses.
THE VINEYARDS XO 11 page 2/2
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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THE VINEYARDS XO 12
Vine training method, pruning, trimming
High-trained, widely-spaced vines
The traditional shape of the vineyard, with low trained, narrowly-spaced vines, began to change in the 1960s to one with high-trained, widely-spaced vines. High-trained vines limit frost damage and are easier to weed beneath the rows.
Widely-spaced vines make mechanisation easier and greatly reduce production costs, while maintaining sufficient yields, provided pruning is adapted accordingly.
Just under 3,000 vines per hectare: 3 m spacing between rows, 1.20 m between vines
The most common spacing today is 3 m between rows (the maximum being 3.5
m) and 1.20 m between vines in each row, giving just under 3,000 vines per hectare (new plots must have a minimum planting density of 2,200 vines per hectare).
Traditional pruning method: arch-trained or horizontally-tied Double Guyot
Annual pruning is mandatory. All methods of pruning are authorised. The traditional pruning method is arch-trained or horizontally-tied Double Guyot. On either side of the trunk of the vine, a long branch (called a “cane”) with 8-10 buds is
kept, sometimes along with a “spur” with two buds. The canes are attached to two
training wires in an arch, or, in an increasingly common, more economical method, are
tied horizontally to one wire. In general, approximately 60,000 buds/ha (24,291 buds/
acre) will remain after pruning (upper limit, 80,000 per hectare).
Closely-pruned, cordon-trained vines are also present, but this method is less commonly used because it causes rapid vine ageing. Both low, trained cordons and high, unattached cordons are seen.
Two pruning methods are currently becoming more widespread:
- The high arch, a long, unattached pruning method that combines the advantages of long
pruning (fertility, longevity) and the sparing of shoot positioning
- Alternating every other year between long pruning tied horizontally and spur pruning.
Each year, pre-pruning (“pré-taillage”) can be done on the portion of the vineyard that is
spur pruned.
THE VINEYARDS XO 12 page 1/2
● High-trained, widely-spaced vines
● Just under 3,000 vines per hectare : 3 m spacing between rows, 1.20 m between vines
● Traditional pruning method: arch-trained or horizontally-tied Double Guyot
● Trellis height: approximately 2 meters (6.6 ft)
Trellis height: approximately 2 meters (6.6 ft)
Trellising or shoot positioning consists in lifting the new shoots in June to tie them between training wire. Then the ends of the shoots can be trimmed to give the plant a square shape. Shoot
positioning is one of the lengthiest, most demanding manual operations and it is
increasingly mechanised.
Trellis height of approximately 2 meters (6.6 ft) results in low vine density compared to vineyards for producing table wine. This helps limit hydric stress
and alcohol levels in the wines.
There is very little work in the vineyard while the vines grow (from budbreak to leaf loss), in contrast to most vineyards producing table wine No shoot thinning, no green harvesting, no leaf removal.
Sucker removal (removal of shoots from the trunk), however, is indispensable.
ALSO OF INTEREST
● Details of the appellation in the appendix● Specifications for the Cognac appellation in the media library
THE VINEYARDS XO 12 page 2/2
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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THE VINEYARDS XO 13
Soil management and fertilization
Soil, climate and vine training method explain the primary soil management techniques
Pedoclimatic (soil and climate) conditions, along with the vine training method, explain the most commonly seen soil management techniques.
The soil is worked with surface tools (rotary hoe, harrow, cultivator, etc.). This traditional technique is used especially for soil with low water reserves such as the “groies”. Deep plowing accompanied by hilling up and plowing back the vine stocks has long since
fallen out of practice.
Grass cover is now common in many vineyard parcels
Grass cover is now common in many vineyard parcels. The relatively high water reserves and the way the chalky sub-soil restores water to the
vine in summer enable it to compete with grass.
Grass presents numerous advantages for the winegrower. First and foremost it protects the soil: a tractor can enter a parcel shortly after rainfall, to treat it against disease—downy mildew in particular – if need be, without causing damage.
Moreover, it limits working the soil, which would increase the risk of chlorosis (leaf discoloration of varied intensity, due to a lack of chlorophyll), by grinding up limestone rocks; it also limits soil erosion, encourages development of fauna that prey on rodents and improves the soil’s water absorption.
Environmental issues are high on the region’s agenda and usually herbicides are only applied directly beneath the rows.
Many parcels are managed in multiple ways, for example weeding beneath the rows, planting every other row with grass cover and every other one plowed.
THE VINEYARDS XO 13 page 1/2
● Soil, climate and vine training method explain the primary soil management techniques
● Grass cover is now common in many vineyard parcels
● Mineral fertilisation is most common
Mineral fertilisation is most common
Mineral fertilisation is most common.
The high level of organic matter in these soils and the limestone which slows their degradation often make it unnecessary to use organic additives. In addition, canes converted to mulch, on site, make up for a good portion of the decrease in humus.
The development of grass covers is raising the issue of nitrogen fertilization. Potassium,
magnesium and phosphate additions are intended to make up for nutrients lost in the
harvest, but reserves accumulated in the soil over the years make it possible to avoid new
additions in many instances.
THE VINEYARDS XO 13 page 2/2
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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THE VINEYARDS XO 14
“Lutte raisonnée” (Sustainable viticulture)
Environmental and economic concerns are motivating the development of an approach called “lutte raisonnée” that involves fewer chemicals. Organic viticulture is also used
Environmental and economic concerns are motivating the development of an approach called “lutte raisonnée”, where growers actively strive to reduce the vine’s sensitivity (for example by planting vineyards with grass, which limits sensitivity to grey rot) and make use of the balance of nature (for example, by using predators to control other acarids).
Organic viticulture is also present.
Approximately 8 treatments are necessary to guarantee harvest quality.
The major problems with vine health arise from the Atlantic climate and Ugni
Blanc’s characteristics.
Year-round rainfall encourages the development of fungal diseases: downy
mildew, powdery mildew. These dreaded diseases require constant vigilance.
Ugni Blanc is also very sensitive to wood diseases and bacterial necrosis. On
the other hand, its loose bunches are not very prone to grey rot.
Overall, pests are not a big problem, but the presence of “flavescence
dorée” (a virus-like disease) makes it necessary to treat a portion of the
vineyards against the insect that spreads it.
NOTEThe particularity of the Cognac vineyards imposes specific restrictions concerning the use of phytosanitary products. The BNIC has established a monitoring and communication unit to address this situation. The objective is to provide the region’s technicians and winegrowers with
recommendations regarding phytosanitary protection, while respecting
consumer food safety.
THE VINEYARDS XO 14 page 1/2
● Environmental and economic concerns are motivating the development of an approach called “lutte raisonnée” that involves fewer chemicals. Organic viticulture is also used
As part of the HACCP (Hazard Analysis Critical Control Point) approach, the
BNIC’s Station Viticole is establishing a classification of phytosanitary
products into three lists, taking into account the various results obtained to
date. These lists have been established based on the particularities of the
vineyards and Cognac production characteristics. In no case may they be
generalized to other situations.
This information is updated and distributed once yearly in May. It is available
on the BNIC website: www.cognac.fr.
Recommendations for the use of phytosanitary products are also available on
the database via the BNIC Extranet, where they are continually updated as
new results are obtained.
THE VINEYARDS XO 14 page 2/2
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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HARVEST XO 01
HARVEST VSOP 01 HARVEST VS 01
The harvest
Mid-September to mid-October
Harvesting can begin as soon as the grapes have reached maturity (balance
between sugar and acidity). In general, the harvest starts in mid-September and ends around mid-October.
A few growers continue to harvest by hand (mainly the young vines), but mechanical harvesting is almost universal in the Cognac region.
The mechanical harvester: well-suited to the demands of the region’s winegrowers
Today, mechanical harvesters, which have existed for more than 30 years, are perfectly suited to both the volume harvested and the quality requirements of the region’s winegrowers (respect for the harvest).
● Mid-September to mid-October
● The mechanical harvester: well-suited to the demands of the region’s winegrowers
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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HARVEST XO 02
HARVEST VSOP 02 HARVEST VS 02
The mechanical harvester
The mechanical harvesterVideo.
● The mechanical harvester
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HARVEST XO 03
Search for optimum quality
The care put into the harvest, from the vine to the press, influences the aromas and composition of the future eaux-de-vie
The conditions under which the harvest takes place, from picking to pressing, have an influence on the aromas and composition of the future eaux-de-vie.
Indeed, in recent years, several studies have enabled a better understanding of certain important mechanisms that take place during the harvest and explain their direct or indirect effects on the quality of the Cognac.
After picking, the harvest must be quickly brought to the cellar and pressed, to limit oxidation of the grapes.
To keep up with improved performance by mechanical harvesters, pressing facilities have had to adapt. The use of centrifugal pumps to transfer the harvest is banned.
NOTEIn the Cognac region, winegrowers never sell their harvest to Cognac merchants. More than 5,500 growers produce wines that will be distilled to produce Cognac.
● The care put into the harvest, from the vine to the press, influences the aromas and composition of the future eaux-de-vie
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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HARVEST XO 04
Pressing
Traditional use of the horizontal basket press or the pneumatic press
Grape bunches are pressed immediately after picking, in traditional, horizontal basket presses or pneumatic presses.
Continuous screw presses are prohibited. The juice obtained is fermented immediately.
Progressive extraction of juice, reduced amounts of gross lees and minimal oxidation of the must
A good pressing should meet 3 requirements:
● Qualitative requirement: progressive extraction of juices, production of minimal must deposit and low oxidation of the must ;
● Technical requirement: adaptation to harvest rate to avoid holding time that is detrimental to quality ;
● Practical requirement: ease of use and maintenance
During pressing, the type of equipment and how it is used affect the quality of the must.
Pressing and fermentation are attentively monitored, for they will have a determining influence on the ultimate quality of the eau-de-vie. For example, limiting production of deposits and their release into the must. Excessive
must deposit is undesirable in Cognac vinification because it can result in an increase in
“higher alcohols” (or “fusel oils”) in the eaux-de-vie (which, at high concentrations, result
in a loss of elegance in the spirits). This point will be developed in the section
“Vinification”.
ALSO OF INTEREST
● Details of the appellation in the appendix● Specifications for the Cognac appellation in the media library
● Traditional use of the horizontal basket press or the pneumatic press
● Progressive extraction of juice, reduced amounts of gross lees and minimal oxidation of the must
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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HARVEST XO 05
Pressing
Horizontal basket pressesTechnical illustration. Comments can be made at the end of the demonstration.
The mechanical horizontal basket press is simple to use and sturdily designed. It is the most commonly used
● Horizontal basket presses
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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HARVEST XO 06
Pressing
Pneumatic pressesTechnical illustration. Comments can be made at the end of the demonstration.
The more modern design of pneumatic presses enables must extraction under lower pressure, more gently breaking up the charge of pressed grapes than a basket press.
Pneumatic presses can have an axially or longitudinally mounted membrane. With equal
loads, these two types offer comparable draining rates.
A pneumatic press can be filled either directly through its doors or via axial feeds.
Pneumatic presses make it possible to better optimise pressing by adjusting their cycle according to the nature of the harvest and the characteristics of the juice.
● Pneumatic presses
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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VINIFICATION XO 01
Characteristics of the wine
Acidic and low in alcohol: Two essential qualities for a wine intended for distillation
As mentioned above, must intended for vinification in the Cognac region, yields wines with very particular qualities: low alcohol levels (about 9% abv.), enabling better concentration of the wine’s aromatic compounds; and high acidity, an indispensable quality for natural preservation of the wine. At the time they are to be distilled, wines must have a minimum alcoholic degree of 7%
and a maximum alcoholic degree of 12%. Their volatile acidity content must be equal to
or less than 12.25 milliequivalents per litre.
Vinification in the Cognac region: Addition of sugar or sulfur is prohibited
The particularity of vinification in the Cognac region is that chaptalization and addition of sulphur are prohibited (the use of sulphur dioxide is forbidden
during fermentation).
If it were used, SO2 would be concentrated by distillation and create unacceptable flaws in Cognac eaux-de-vie.
Two fermentations: Alcoholic then malolactic
Vinification in the Cognac Region takes place in two successive fermentations: alcoholic then malolactic fermentation.
We will expand upon these two steps in the following chapters.
ALSO OF INTEREST
● Details of the appellation in the appendix● Specifications for the Cognac appellation in the media library
● Acidic and low in alcohol: Two essential qualities for a wine intended for distillation
● Vinification in the Cognac region: Addition of sugar or sulfur is prohibited
● Two fermentations: Alcoholic then malolactic
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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VINIFICATION XO 02
Alcoholic fermentation
Effected by the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae
Alcoholic fermentation, which lasts 4-8 days, is effected by the yeast species Saccharomyces cerevisiae.
To multiply, Saccharomyces cerevisiae consumes the nutrients in the must and its metabolic activity is expressed in two essential phenomena: the conversion of sugars in the must into alcohol (ethanol) and the production of volatile compounds responsible for the aromas of the new eau-de-vie.
Conversion of sugars in the must into alcohol
In practice, the winemaker monitors the progression of alcoholic fermentation, measuring must weight daily with a “mustimetre”: the density decreases as the sugars are converted into alcohol. This reaction generates energy (an exergonic reaction).
Temperature curve appears on the screen.
Some of the energy produced is used by the yeast to continue to multiply (the yeast population reaches 100 million cells per ml [3 billion cells per ounce] during
alcoholic fermentation), but most of this energy is released in the form of heat, which explains the rise in temperature during alcoholic fermentation.
Above 30°C (86°F), the temperature may inhibit yeast growth, which is why winemakers must monitor the fermenting wine’s temperature daily.
Production of volatile compounds generating the aromas of the new eau-de-vie
Parallel to the conversion of sugars into alcohol, the yeast produces a wide variety of volatile compounds that will be concentrated during distillation. these will generate the new eau-de-vie’s aromas.
The primary volatile compounds synthesised by the yeast are aldehydes, higher alcohols,
fatty acid esters, acetate esters, or esters of higher alcohols.
VINIFICATION XO 02 page 1/2
● Effected by the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae
● Conversion of sugars in the must into alcohol
● Production of volatile compounds generating the aromas of the new eau-de-vie
The formation of most esters is sought after, for these compounds give the eaux-de-vie fruity (banana, pear…) and floral (linden flower, rose, violet…) aromas. Other compounds produced by the yeast (higher alcohols, ethyl acetate, acetaldehyde…)
contribute aromas to the eau-de-vie but can alter quality when they exceed known
concentration thresholds.
VINIFICATION XO 02 page 2/2
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VINIFICATION XO 03
Alcoholic fermentation
Necessity of controlling the progress of fermentationTo control the synthesis of all these volatile compounds, an optimum fermentation cycle must be established – in other words, a cycle that will lead to the optimum development of Saccharomyces cerevisiae. This means: ● rapid start of alcoholic fermentation to avoid the appearance of
undesirable micro-organisms during the prefermentation phase (there will be no SO2 to remove them!);
● steady progress;
● complete consumption of sugars by the yeast. The winemaker’s goal is to avoid: ● significant temperature increases related to a fermentation that is
proceeding too quickly (e.g., 4 days); (see 4-day graph).
● fermentation that proceeds too slowly, which could lead to premature multiplication of bacteria and overlapping of alcoholic fermentation with malolactic fermentation, which must absolutely be avoided. (lactic acescence, which will be revisited in the chapter on MLF) (see 10-day graph).
Yeast addition: A winemaking practice that improves control over alcoholic fermentation
The practice of yeast addition has become increasingly widespread. This practice consists in seeding the must with a select population of Saccharomyces cerevisiae of about 1 million cells per ml (about 30 million cells per fluid ounce).
The goal is twofold: ● ensure rapid start to fermentation;● populate must with a strain with known qualities.
Indeed, it is important to know that there is great variability within the species S.
cerevisiae: strains belonging to this species present physiological characteristics that can
differ widely.
The analytical and sensory profile of a wine is therefore dependent on the strain of
Saccharomyces cerevisiae that dominated in the must during alcoholic fermentation.
VINIFICATION XO 03 page 1/2
● Necessity of controlling the progress of fermentation
● Yeast addition: A winemaking practice that improves control over alcoholic fermentation
● Addition of nitrogen in case of deficiency
● Other factors influence yeast metabolism: presence of must deposit, temperature
The necessity of controlling the formation of volatile compounds in the wines has led researchers and oenologists to select the best-suited strains. Today, most winemakers seed the must with selected yeasts. Strain FC9, for example, was selected in the Cognac region vineyards as a result of an
extensive ecological study performed in the 1990s.
Addition of nitrogen in case of deficiency
However, the practice of yeast addition and choice of a particular strain of yeast are not always sufficient to ensure good development of fermentation.
The nitrogen content of the must plays a prime role here, for it is a limiting factor in yeast growth.
If the must is nitrogen-deficient, fermentation will be too slow and the risk of lactic spoilage will be very high.
This is why the winemaker may add nitrogen to a deficient must.
These additions encourage yeast growth and therefore the speed of fermentation. Ecologically speaking, they are preferable to excessive vine fertilisation.
Current regulations allow the addition of ammonium salt to the maximum dose of 100 g/
hl (1.4 oz/gal). However, few situations require such supplements. Additions in the region
are often around 20 g/hl (0.3 oz/gal). Exceeding the 50 g/hl (0.7 oz/gal) total dose of
supplements is discouraged, at the risk of seeing significant changes in the analytical
profile of the resulting eaux-de-vie.
Other factors influence yeast metabolism: presence of must deposit, temperatureOther factors influence the production of volatile compounds and, consequently, the aroma profile of the new eaux-de-vie. Some of these factors include : ● greater or lesser presence of must deposit ; ● temperature (controlled temperature of about 22°C (72°F) yields more
aromatic esters). The aroma profile of the new eaux-de-vie is also closely tied to the composition of the
fermenting must. This relationship is complex and explains differences in vintages. The
Station Viticole is currently studying this subject.
VINIFICATION XO 03 page 2/2
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VINIFICATION XO 04
Malolactic fermentation
Conversion of malic acid into lactic acid
Malolactic fermentation refers to the conversion of malic acid into lactic acid by lactic bacteria. Its progress can be easily analysed and controlled via paper chromatography.
The progress of malolactic fermentation (beginning, duration) varies widely according to the circumstances.
It can begin immediately after alcoholic fermentation and be completed in less than five days.
Or, sometimes it will take several weeks before beginning and decomposition of the malic acid can take several more weeks. In certain cases, malolactic fermentation does not take place at all and the wines are
distilled without it. In order for malolactic fermentation to start, there must be a phase of
bacterial growth.
Caused by bacteria belonging to the species Oenococcus oeni
Malolactic fermentation is carried out by bacteria belonging to the species Oenococcus oeni. These bacteria are present in the must and, in principle, only grow once alcoholic fermentation is completed. At the end of alcoholic fermentation, yeast cells begin to die, ceasing to produce
compounds that inhibit the bacteria and providing nutrients that will enable the bacteria
to multiply.
It is essential that alcoholic and malolactic fermentation not overlap. Premature bacteria growth in the presence of unfermented sugars would damage quality.
Again, perfect control of the alcoholic fermentation—and thereby the metabolism of the
yeast—is decisive.
Malolactic fermentation: Mechanism for regulating residual acetaldehyde in the wine
Malolactic fermentation is not mandatory. In table wines (particularly red wines), malolactic fermentation is indispensable for it
reduces the wine’s acidity, in contrast to wines for distillation.
VINIFICATION XO 04 04 page 1/2
● Conversion of malic acid into lactic acid
● Caused by bacteria belonging to the species Oenococcus oeni
● Malolactic fermentation: Mechanism for regulating residual acetaldehyde in the wine
● Improved stability for wines awaiting distillation
However, this process is often recommended because, as mentioned earlier, it yields somewhat rounder eaux-de-vie and reduces the level of acetaldehydes which may have been produced in too large quantity by the yeast.
Improved stability for wines awaiting distillation
Moreover, once this conversion has taken place, the wine being stored before distillation is more microbiologically stable (its malic acid, a primary substrate for numerous bacteria species, has been consumed).
Because of this waiting period and the absence of sulphur additions, the Cognac region must rely on acidic must, as the pH is an essential factor in natural preservation.
VINIFICATION XO 04 04 page 2/2
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VINIFICATION XO 05
Quality control: An indispensable step in vinification
The quality of the newly distilled eaux-de-vie depends largely on the quality of the wine
The quality of the newly distilled eaux-de-vie depends largely on the quality of the base wines.
To avoid the main risks for poor quality related to wine, selection procedures involving tasting or analysis have become universal.
Wine selection can vary from one producer to another, but the objective is always the
same: quality control ensures that the vinification and conservation of the wines are
carried out successfully.
Micro-distillation: A complement to tasting and analysis
Micro-distillation is a simulation of the two-step “repasse” method of distillation.
The technique of laboratory micro-distillation is most often used to complement tasting and analysis of the wine.
Production quality can then be refined, based on distillation method, types of materials
and equipment used.
● The quality of the newly distilled eaux-de-vie depends largely on the quality of the wine
● Micro-distillation: A complement to tasting and analysis
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DISTILLATION XO O1
Why distill?
Distillation concentrates the aromas by extracting and filtering out the best volatile compounds from the wine
Alcohol is a product of the fermentation of sugars found naturally in fruit as fructose and glucose.
Alcohol is also found in combination with many other compounds and must therefore be isolated from them.
This operation is performed by distillation.
The principle of distillation is based on the differences in volatility of these compounds (their ability to evaporate depends on their boiling point: the most volatile compound has a lower boiling point than the least volatile).
Thus, the eau-de-vie contains only the volatile substances, which make up the main features of the bouquet.
During distillation, 3 important events occur:
● extraction of volatile substances (the quality of the other substances plays a
part, since they represent 0.3 to 1% of the alcohol) ;● filtering of volatile substances (rectification): for an eau-de-vie, this
simply means eliminating the unwanted volatile substances ;● transformation that occurs during the distillation process: creation of
aromatic compounds that can affect the taste of the eaux-de-vie.
In the end, it can be said that, alcohol (ethanol) is the vehicle that draws out the volatile compounds.
● Distillation concentrates the aromas by extracting and filtering out the best volatile compounds from the wine
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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DISTILLATION XO O2
End of the 13th century: French wines are first distilled
End of the 13th century: Arnaud de Villeneuve, a doctor and theologian, is the first person to distill French wines
It was at the end of the 13th century that the idea of distilling wine occurred to Frenchman, Arnaud de Villeneuve (1238-1311).
Through this process, he obtained “a product that can cure poisoning, clear the chest, prolong life and maintain youth”
Amazed by the quality of the product he had obtained, he attributed every virtue to it: “This product can cure poisoning, clear the chest, prolong life and maintain youth.” Thus what should have been “eau de feu” (“firewater”) became “eau-de-vie” (“water of life”). (Source: Annuaire BERAULD, 1896-1897)
● End of the 13th century: Arnaud de Villeneuve, a doctor and theologian, is the first person to distill French wines
● Through this process, he obtained “a product that can cure poisoning, clear the chest, prolong life and maintain youth”
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DISTILLATION XO O3
DISTILLATION VSOP O2
Different distillation methods
Continuous distillation column: prohibited for Cognac eaux-de-vie
There are several distillation techniques used to produce spirits. Their differences stem from the way the distillation is carried out :
● continuous distillation is prohibited in the production of Cognac but generaly used to make vodka and most whiskies.
Double distillation in batches known as “repasse”: mandatory for making Cognac eaux-de-vie● double distillation in batches, also called “repasse”: This is the
traditional and long-established Charentaise distillation method and is the mandatory technique for producing Cognac. It is carried out in two successive “chauffes” (heatings) using a traditional “Charentais” still.
Double distillation results in better aroma concentration
Double distillation results in an aromatic eau-de-vie, unlike continuous distillation in column stills, which aims to produce a more neutral eau-de-vie.
The heating method, heating time and shape of the equipment, all have an effect on the quality of an eau-de-vie
The heating method, heating time and shape of the equipment, all have an effect on the quality of an eau-de-vie. The shape of the equipment helps filter the volatile substances.
● Continuous distillation column: prohibited for Cognac eaux-de-vie
● Double distillation in batches known as “repasse”: mandatory for making Cognac eaux-de-vie
● Double distillation results in better aroma concentration
● The heating method, heating time and shape of the equipment, all have an effect on the quality of an eau-de-vie
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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DISTILLATION XO O4
DISTILLATION VSOP O3
Charentaise distillation
The features of the Charentais pot still are defined in the specifications for the AOC Cognac.
Maximum boiler load: 25 hl for the “bonne chauffe” (second distillation)
● 1st chauffe To obtain the brouillis, the still may have a maximum capacity of 140 hl (with a tolerance of 5%). The load volume of wine is limited to 120 hl (with a tolerance of 5%).
● 2nd chauffe For the “bonne chauffe”, the total capacity of the still must not exceed 30 hl (with a tolerance of 5%) and the load volume is limited to 25 hl.
Boiler heated over an open flame
The boiler must be heated over an open flame according to traditional and customary usage. In fact, distillation over an open flame allows the complementary aromas to come together when the wine comes into contact with the bottom of the boiler.
Maximum alcohol content: 72,4% abv at 20°C
Only those eaux-de-vie that contain a maximum alcohol content of 72,4% abv at 20°C can benefit from the Cognac AOC designation (after double
distillation, in the recipient which collects the wine spirit every day).
Distillation completed no later than March 31
The wines must be distilled no later than March 31 of the year following the harvest.
ALSO OF INTEREST
● Details of the appellation in the appendix
● Maximum boiler load: 25 hl for the “bonne chauffe” (second distillation)
● Boiler heated over an open flame
● Maximum alcohol content: 72,4% abv at 20°C
● Distillation completed no later than March 31
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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DISTILLATION XO 05
The Charentais pot still
Three main components
The Charentais pot still (“alembic”) has three main components:
● Boiler or pot: Vessel holding the wine or “brouillis” ; ● Still head and swan’s neck: Collect the vapours and rectify (filter) them,
depending on the shape and volume of the piece (e.g. onion or olive shaped still heads) ;
● Condenser and coil: Condense the vapours and regulate the temperature of the distillate.
The Charentais still is made of copper
The boiler, still-head, swan-neck and coil must be made of copper (as set
down in the specifications for the AOC Cognac).
This metal is chosen for its physical properties (malleability, good heat conduction) and its chemical reactivity with certain components of the wine, which make it an indispensable catalyst for obtaining quality eaux-de-vie.
● Three main components
● The Charentais still is made of copper
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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DISTILLATION XO 06
DISTILLATION VSOP 04 DISTILLATION VS 02
Charentaise distillation method
Optional comments to accompany the on-screen demonstration
1/ The Charentais distillation process must be performed following the traditional method, meaning that Cognac is double-distilled in copper stills. 2/ The still is made up of three essential parts. The Charentais copper still comprises a characteristically shaped boiler set over direct
heat; a still head shaped like a turban (the traditional “tête de maure” form), an olive, or
an onion; and a swan’s neck tube that continues to become a coil, passing through a
cooling tank referred to as the “pipe.” 3/The Pre-heater: is an optional element. It is generally used to preheat the wine waiting for the distillation process to begin, thereby saving energy and idle time between distillations. The Charentais still is often equipped with an energy-saving wine preheater. This
accessory preheats the next batch of wine using the heat from the vapours that pass
through it. 4/ The white wine collected from the Delimited Production Region is introduced in the pot (or boiler).
5/ The wine is brought to its boiling point. 6/ Alcohol vapors are freed and accumulate on the still-head, while the most volatile pass through the swan's neck, 7/ finally to arrive at the condensing coil.
8/ When they meet the cold water, they condense and form a cloudy liquid known as "brouillis". 9/ This liquid, which contains an alcohol content of 27 to 32% is then returned to the boiler for a second distillation. For this second heating, the boiler capacity must not exceed 30 hl and the load volume is
limited to 25 hl (with a tolerance of 5%). 10 /The first litres of distillate obtained from the second distillation or ‘bonne chauffe’ are referred to as the ‘heads’. They have a high alcohol content (between 82% and 78% abv) and are separated from the rest. The distiller carries out the delicate operation known as “cutting” (“la coupe”). The
“heads” represent 1-2% of the volume.
DISTILLATION XO 06, VSOP 04, VS 02 - page 1/2
11/ Gradually, the alcohol content in the distillate reduces. After the ‘heads’, the distiller obtains the ‘heart’, a bright, clear liquid that will produce Cognac.
12/ The ‘second cuts’ are produced after the ‘heart’. These are redistilled with next batch of wine or ‘brouillis’. The last part of the distillate to run off are the ‘tails’... The distiller gathers the “secondes”—when the alcohol meter registers 60% abv.—and
finally, the “tails” at the end of distillation. The “heads” and “secondes” are redistilled with
the next batch of wine or brouillis. . 13/ The heart of the ‘bonne chauffe’ is then put into oak barrels to begin its ageing process. The success of the distilling cycle, which lasts about 24 hours, lies in constant monitoring,
close attention and extensive experience on the part of the distiller, who may also
intervene in the distillation techniques (proportion of fine lees, recycling of “secondes” in
batches of wine or brouillis, temperature curves, etc.), thus stamping his or her
personality on the Cognac.
DISTILLATION XO 06, VSOP 04, VS 02 - page 2/2
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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DISTILLATION XO 07
Distillation
About 9 litres of wine for 1 litre of eau-de-vie at 72% abv.
It takes 9 litres of wine to obtain 1 litre of eau-de-vie at 72% abv. That means two-thirds of the initial volume is lost with each heating.
For 25 hl of wine, 9 hl of brouillis are obtained. So it takes three times as much wine to obtain the volume of brouillis needed for the second distillation, the “bonne chauffe”.
The heart of the “bonne chauffe”: 40% of the volume of the brouillis
During the second distillation, the first, most volatile products are discarded. In too high concentration, they would alter the quality of the eau-de-vie. These are the “heads” (“têtes”). They represent 1-2% of the volume of the brouillis.
The next products to appear are much finer and rich in floral aromas. They constitute the “heart” (“cœur”) of the distillation, the future Cognac—about 40% of the volume of the brouillis.
The following portion is called the “secondes”, representing about 30% of the volume of the brouillis. Neither the “secondes” nor the “tails” (“queues”) — the last 10% of the distillate—will be kept.
This separation of the different portions is called “cutting” (“la coupe”).
The remaining volume of the brouillis is composed of residues, which are not distilled.
● About 9 litres of wine for 1 litre of eau-de-vie at 72% abv.
● The heart of the “bonne chauffe”: 40% of the volume of the brouillis
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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DISTILLATION XO 08
Distillation: Pace and duration of heating
The “bonne chauffe”: about 13 hours
The first heating, where the wine is distilled, lasts about 9 hours; the “bonne chauffe” (second heating), about 13 hours.
Different pouring-off temperatures
It is important to control pouring-off temperatures.
Analyses of eaux-de-vie show reduced solubility of volatile fatty acid esters at low temperatures, even for small temperature differences.
The low temperature at which the brouillis is poured off, combined with the copper’s reactivity, keep back the fatty acids and other undesirable compounds from the wine. Brouillis is poured off between 13 and 15°C (55-59°F).
Since the brouillis was already filtered when drawn, the pouring-off temperature of the heart of the second distillation is less crucial. It can be higher and varies from 17 to 20°C (63-68°F).
The nature of the “secondes”, which are rich in coarser compounds and the increase in the heating temperature impose a reduction of the pouring-off temperature to achieve a better selection. This takes place between 13 and 15°C (55-59°F).
It can also be noted that the effect of the pouring-off temperature on the insolubility of
certain esters seems selective. The most volatile compounds are more subjected to the
phenomenon.
Several factors influence the characteristics of the eaux-de-vie The way the distillation is conducted has some influence on the final result: ● whether the wine is distilled on its lees or not ;● the pace and duration of the heating ;● the decision whether to recycle the “secondes” with the next batch of
wine or brouillis and ;● the percentage of “heads” and “tails” removed,
can all subtly affect the characteristics of the eau-de-vie.
For example, it is possible to “pull” a little more on the “secondes” (draw off more of
them), mainly for eaux-de-vie destined for long ageing, to obtain heady notes of brioche.
The distiller adapts his approach according to the kind of eau-de-vie desired.
DISTILLATION XO 08 page 1/2
● The “bonne chauffe”: about 13 hours
● Different pouring-off temperatures
● Several factors influence the characteristics of the eaux-de-vie
● More than 4,000 grower-distillers and a hundred professional distillers
More than 4,000 grower-distillers and a hundred professional distillers
Distillers in the Cognac region include:
● Grower-distillers (bouilleurs de cru) : Those who distill or subcontract the distillation of their wines. The region has more than 4,000 grower-distillers, of whom 1,300 own their own stills. Certain grower-distillers also sell direct (just over 500). The majority sell their eaux-de-vie to the Cognac houses. Note: In the region, grower-distillers are not itinerant.
● Professional distillers purchase wine, distill it and sell Cognac eaux-de-vie. They can also distill for others. There are just over 100 of them.
● There are also several distillation cooperatives.
DISTILLATION XO 08 page 2/2
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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AGEING XO 01
AGEING VSOP 01 AGEING VS 01
Exclusively in oak barrels
Ageing takes place exclusively in oak casks
Eaux-de-vie are aged exclusively in oak casks, without interruption, solely in a storage facility registered with the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac. This registration is mandatory to obtain the necessary Cognac certificates, guaranteeing age and origin that only the BNIC is authorised to issue and which are required for export.
Controlled by the BNIC
All aspects of ageing are controlled by the BNIC by special authorisation from Customs (2003 executive order modified).
ALSO OF INTEREST
● Executive order of July 2003
● Ageing takes place exclusively in oak casks
● Controlled by the BNIC
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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AGEING XO 02
Barrel making: Two types of oak
Only two types of oak: “Sessile” or “Pedunculate” oak
Only two types of oak are used in making casks for Cognac: “sessile” and “pedunculate” oak (Quercus sessiliflora and Quercus pedunculata, respectively). These two types are present in much of Europe.
Sessile oak releases less tannin than pedunculate oak and more methyl-octalactones (compounds giving off aromas of wood and coconut).
● Only two types of oak: “Sessile” or “Pedunculate” oak
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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AGEING XO 03
Barrel making: Wood grain and silviculture
The grain of the wood depends on the density of the forest
The grain is the name given to the width of the growth rings. One ring equals one year of growth; counting them gives the age of the tree.
The width of annual growth depends mostly on the density of the trees. The closer they grow, the more they have to compete for light and water, so the less they grow in a year. There are various methods of silviculture.
Timber forest: High density, fine grain
Timber forests (e.g. the Tronçais forest in Allier) are composed of trees of the same age; density is high and the grain (ring width) is tight.
Logs are long, without knots. These oaks are known to have particularly soft tannins. In the past, the goal of this style of silviculture was to produce timber for building
warships. The Tronçais forest in the Allier département was planted by Colbert for the
construction of Louis XIV’s royal fleet. Ironically Colbert was very involved in the fight
against alcohol consumption yet his forest contributes to producing one of the best spirits
in the world!
Natural forest: Low density, wide grain
Natural forest (e.g., the Limousin forest): trees are of different ages and density is lower. This dynamic cultivation method produces greater volumes of wood.
Logs can be cut younger (at 120 years old, as opposed to over 200 in a timber forest).
The grain is wider and the logs are shorter. An eau-de-vie resting in casks made from this kind of oak can extract more tannin.
● The grain of the wood depends on the density of the forest
● Timber forest: High density, fine grain
● Natural forest: Low density, wide grain
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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AGEING XO 04
Barrel making : Two types of wood
Tronçais: sessile, fine grain (timber forest)
Limousin: pedunculate, wide grain (natural forest)
Traditionally, wood for Cognac is sourced in the Limousin or Tronçais forests.
These two forests present opposite characteristics:
● Tronçais : sessile, fine grain (timber forest);● Limousin : pedunculate, wide grain (natural forest).
Limousin oak contributes more tannins, while Tronçais oak, more aromatic compounds: methyl-octalactones (wood, coconut), eugenol (cloves), etc.
Each house chooses the oak it will use to age its eaux-de-vie based on the style of Cognac it is seeking to produce.
● Tronçais: sessile, fine grain (timber forest)
● Limousin: pedunculate, wide grain (natural forest)
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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AGEING XO 05
AGEING VSOP 02
Barrel making: From log to staves
Only 20% of the tree can be used to make barrels
Only 20% of the tree can be used to make barrels. The requisite criteria are:
● sufficient diameter,● absence of knots,● straight grain.
The parts of the logs that meet these requirements are said to be of “qualité merrain” (merrain quality: the word “merrain” in French designates wood split by hand for use as staves).
“Merrains” are split from the heartwood
The “merrains” are split from the heartwood. The heartwood is composed of dead cells; it supports the tree, but no longer has any physiological purpose.
The “merrains” must follow the grain of the wood to achieve a watertight cask, so they are split rather than sawn.
● Only 20% of the tree can be used to make barrels
● “Merrains” are split from the heartwood
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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AGEING XO 06
AGEING VSOP 03
Barrel making : Drying the wood
The “merrains” have a high moisture level
Drying or “seasoning” is indispensable to achieve water content of about 15%
As the “merrains” have a high moisture level, a drying or “seasoning” stage is indispensable to achieve water content of about 15%.
As the woods dries, it shrinks and its volume decreases.
Drying is therefore necessary before making the casks, in order to obtain boards that will not shrink once assembly is complete. If the “merrains” are not
dry enough, they continue to dry after the cask is completed, resulting in leaks.
Generally stored and dried out in the open, “merrains” are exposed to the weather. Under these conditions, washed of their coarsest tannins, they reach an appropriate moisture level in under a year.
However, the seasoning stage is generally longer, as the “merrains” mature.
This maturation has a positive effect on quality: it yields eaux-de-vie with a more supple mouthfeel and more distinct aromas.
● The “merrains” have a high moisture level
● Drying or “seasoning” is indispensable to achieve water content of about 15%
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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AGEING XO 07
AGEING VSOP 04 AGEING VS 02
Barrel making
Film on barrel making (Optional comments)
● Drying the “merrains”
● Making the heads
● Assembling the staves
● Warm-up (“chauffe”) and shaping (“cintrage”)
The wood is moistened regularly as it is subjected to the fire, softening the staves and
impregnating each with the scent of freshly baked bread. During this warm-up period, a
hoop placed at the base of the cask is progressively tightened so that the staves come
together, ultimately joining without the need for glue or nails.
● Bousinage
The intensity of toasting (“bousinage”) greatly influences the characteristics of the eaux-
de-vie. The smell of bousinage evokes that of freshly baked baguettes.
● Bung hole
● Fitting the heads
● Testing for leaks
After the last finishing touches, the cask is tested for solidity and injected with boiling
water to reveal any leaks.
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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AGEING XO 08
AGEING VSOP 05
Barrel making: “Bousinage”
“Bousinage” or toasting of the casks transforms macromolecules in the wood
After shaping, the casks are toasted.
The goal of “bousinage” is to develop the wood’s aromas, such as vanilla and toasted bread.
From a chemical standpoint, this “cooking” partially decomposes the wood’s macromolecules into smaller aromatic molecules, which will be easier for the eau-de-vie to absorb. (The macromolecules in wood are lignin, cellulose and hemicellulose.)
The intensity of the toasting influences the sensory characteristics of the eaux-de-vie
Each level of heat intensity corresponds to an aroma profile, with a balance between the various volatile compounds formed.
● “Bousinage” or toasting of the casks transforms macromolecules in the wood
● The intensity of the toasting influences the sensory characteristics of the eaux-de-vie
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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AGEING XO 09
AGEING VSOP 06
Eau-de-vie meets oak
The new eau-de-vie will spend several years in oak casks
The new eau-de-vie will spend several years in oak casks. This is the ageing stage. The maturation that takes place can last for decades.
As the eau-de-vie ages, it evolves: its aromas, colour and flavour all change.
This evolution is related most notably to the compounds in the heartwood and its permeability: Its compounds are extracted by the eau-de-vie.
It must be watertight enough not to lose any liquid but permeable enough to allow the
exchange of gas.
Historically, oak seems to have been chosen for its long, usable life cycle. Indeed, casks can be used for several decades.
The new eau-de-vie is placed in oak containers as soon as it leaves the still, no later than one month after the distillation period. (April 30 of the year following harvest). Wine spirits for direct human consumption are aged in wooden receptacles for at least two
years (as per a modified 2003 decree abrogating the law dated 20 February 1946) in the
region of production.
● The new eau-de-vie will spend several years in oak casks
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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AGEING XO 10
First stage of ageing: Extraction
The eau-de-vie extracts the compounds from the wood
The first phenomenon observed is the extraction of compounds by the eau-de-vie (lignin, tannins, hemicellulose, etc.).
This is the first stage of ageing.
At this stage, the aromas of the eau-de-vie and those of the wood are relatively distinct.
There are many factors influencing extraction, such as type of oak, drying time of the wood and intensity of barrel toasting.
The age of the barrels (brand new or having already contained Cognac eaux-de-vie) and the surface-to-volume ratio also influence extraction.
From contact with the wood, the crystal clear eau-de-vie takes on its characteristic colour and develops its aromas and bouquet
From contact with the wood, the crystal clear eau-de-vie takes on its characteristic colour and develops its aromas and bouquet: the scent of oak, warm vanilla and the aromas brought out during toasting.
● The eau-de-vie extracts the compounds from the wood
● From contact with the wood, the crystal clear eau-de-vie takes on its characteristic colour and develops its aromas and bouquet
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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AGEING XO 11
Chemical changes and transfer of substances
After extraction, the eau-de-vie “digests” the wood
After extraction, the eau-de-vie “digests” the wood. This is also referred to as the “marriage” of the eau-de-vie and the compounds in the wood.
With time, the taste mellows, the bouquet becomes richer and the colour deepens
As the years progress, the smell of the oak gives away to floral and vanilla aromas and the colour deepens. The eau-de-vie becomes increasingly mellow, the bouquet richer and the taste less sharp. Now the flavour known as “rancio” appears.
Appearance of “rancio”
“Rancio” is characterised by notes of mushrooms, damp undergrowth and walnut oil—complex and specific aromas that develop during the long barrel ageing and increase in intensity with the years.
Experience has shown that the different crus have a different potential for extended ageing: for example, eaux-de-vie from the “Champagne” crus are well-suited to extended ageing.
Chemical changes: Evaporation, oxidation, balance
The ageing process includes many different phenomena:
● Substance transfers via:�❍ extraction, diffusion;�❍ evaporation of compounds such as alcohol, water,
acetaldehyde …;�❍ consumption of oxygen.
● Chemical changes:
�❍ oxidation, with formation of aldehydes;�❍ achievement of equilibrium between ester and acid or aldehyde
and acetal;�❍ reactions between compounds in the eau-de-vie and
compounds extracted from the wood.
● After extraction, the eau-de-vie “digests” the wood
● With time, the taste mellows, the bouquet becomes richer and the colour deepens
● Appearance of « rancio »
● Chemical changes: Evaporation, oxidation, balance
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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AGEING XO 12
Influencing factor: Barrel rotation
Initially, the young eaux-de-vie are housed in new barrels that are rich in extractable compounds
Initially placed in new barrels that are rich in extractable compounds, the young eau-de-vie will later be transferred to older casks that have already held several young eaux-de-vie and no longer release any extractable compounds. These barrels do, however, allow the ageing process to continue (evaporation, oxidation, etc.).
This operation of transferring the eau-de-vie from one barrel to another during ageing is called “rotation”.
As time passes, wood influence decreases
As time passes, the extractable potential of the wood changes.
It decreases in quantity, but it also undergoes qualitative changes.
At first, aromatic notes of toasted wood are very present (from toasting during
fabrication of the cask).
Over the years, these soften, giving way to vanilla notes.
● Initially, the young eaux-de-vie are housed in new barrels that are rich in extractable compounds
● As time passes, wood influence decreases
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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AGEING XO 13
Influencing factor: Barrel capacity
Capacity determines the volume to surface ratio
The size of the casks determines the volume to surface ratio.
The greater the capacity, the higher the ratio, which at equal volumes leads to slower ageing with, in particular : ● less extraction of the wood’s compounds and● fewer transfers (evaporation, oxidation, etc.).
The technique called “ullage,” which consists in topping up casks with eau-de-vie from the same source, is used to compensate for natural evaporation, in order to preserve the volume to surface ratio.
Ageing is faster in smaller containers
350 litre barrels are currently the most commonly used for ageing Cognac eaux-de-vie.
● Capacity determines the volume to surface ratio
● Ageing is faster in smaller containers
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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AGEING XO 14
Influencing factor: Temperature
Moderate variations in temperature are conducive to proper ageing
In general, the higher the temperature, the faster the ageing process.
This acceleration varies with each stage - extraction, assimilation, oxidation, evaporation.
Traditionally, Cognac storage facilities are not kept at a constant temperature, in contrast to underground cellars.
Nevertheless, moderate variations in temperature are conducive to proper ageing of eaux-de-vie.
Temperature ranges from 7-22°C (45-72°F) on average are considered reasonable They are one of the components in a cellar’s suitability for ageing eaux-de-vie.
Oak wood, by its nature, also contributes to this thermal inertia.
● Moderate variations in temperature are conducive to proper ageing
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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AGEING XO 15
Influencing factor: Moisture level of the cellars
The relative evaporation of alcohol and water depends on the humidity of the cellars.
Dry cellars: Drier, more alcoholic eaux-de-vie
In a dry cellar (relative humidity between 40 and 60%), evaporation mainly affects the volume, with loss of water.
The alcohol content by volume hardly varies.
The resulting eaux-de-vie are drier and have more character.
Humid cellars: Rounder, mellower eaux-de-vie
In a humid cellar (relative moisture level between 90 and 100%), evaporation mainly affects the alcohol.
Alcohol content can drop noticeably.
Eaux-de-vie aged in humid cellars are described as mellow and round.
In the region, you can find cellars both along the banks of a river and on the upper floor of a winegrowing estate.
● Dry cellars: Drier, more alcoholic eaux-de-vie
● Humid cellars: Rounder, mellower eaux-de-vie
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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AGEING XO 16
Influencing factor: Alcohol Reduction
The Cognac is progressively reduced to 40% abv. by adding pure, distilled, or demineralised water
When Cognac is released to market, its minimum alcohol content is 40% abv.
Young eaux-de-vie, fresh from the still have an alcohol content of 72,4% abv. at 20°C.
During ageing, evaporation contributes to the progressive reduction of the alcohol level. It varies with storage conditions, but averages 2% per year.
In general, however, this natural loss of alcohol is not sufficient. Pure, distilled, or demineralised water must be added to the eau-de-vie. This operation, called “reduction”, must be progressive and executed in several stages.
Alcohol content influences the ageing process. Therefore, some people prefer eaux-de-vie “reduced” early and then aged.
NOTEReduction is not a specific requirement mandated by the AOC. It is possible to find very old eaux-de-vie that have been reduced solely by natural evaporation.
ALSO OF INTEREST
● Details of the appellation in the appendix
● The Cognac is progressively reduced to 40% abv. by adding pure, distilled, or demineralised water
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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AGEING XO 17
AGEING VSOP 09
Evaporation: The angels’ share
Evaporation = concentration
As mentioned earlier, a portion of the volume of the eaux-de-vie evaporates during ageing.
Alcohol and water, as the main components of eaux-de-vie, are lost in the highest quantity. Other volatile compounds evaporate in greater or lesser proportion. The least volatile compounds become more concentrated.
Evaporation represents about 2% of total inventory, or the equivalent of 22 million bottles per year
This alcohol evaporation is poetically referred to as “the angels’ share” (“la part des anges”).
It represents about 2% of total inventory, or the equivalent of about 22 million bottles per year that disappear into thin air: a heavy price that the producers are happy to pay to reach perfection.
Torula compniacensis feeds on the alcohol vapours
Torula compniacensis feeds on the alcohol vapours .
● Evaporation = concentration
● Evaporation represents about 2% of total inventory, or the equivalent of 22 million bottles per year
● Torula compniacensis feeds on the alcohol vapours
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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AGEING XO 18
AGEING VSOP 10
Paradise
After ageing for decades, the eau-de-vie reaches its apogee
The oldest eaux-de-vie rest in a dark cellar called the “Paradis” - Paradise.
To halt the ageing process, the eau-de-vie is often transferred into glass demijohns
Once an eau-de-vie has reached maturity, the Cellar Master - also known as Master Blender - determines to halt the ageing process. He/she transfers them to glass containers called demijohns, where they will rest protected from the air for many decades without developing further.
Indeed, the ageing process no longer operates in glass.
Left to age too long, the quality of the eau-de-vie could be compromised. It is the Cellar Master’s responsibility to decide when it is time to halt the ageing of an eau-de-vie, as each spirit has its own maturation characteristics (cru and ageing method).
An eau-de-vie is considered at its apogee after about 50-60 years of ageing.
However, eaux-de-vie that have been left much longer in oak casks (up to 100 years at
times) can be used in very small quantity in blending to provide the special touch that
makes the most prestigious Cognacs.
● After ageing for decades, the eau-de-vie reaches its apogee
● To halt the ageing process, the eau-de-vie is often transferred into glass demijohns
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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BLENDING XO 01
BLENDING VSOP 01 BLENDING VS 01
A subtle marriage for a quality Cognac
The Master Blender: A central role in a Cognac house
The “Master Blender (or Cellar Master) plays a central role in a Cognac house.
It is he/she who, working with his/her team, selects and purchases eaux-de-vie from the winegrowers and oversees them throughout the ageing process.
As soon as the eaux-de-vie are put into barrel, the Cellar Master determines which will be destined for young Cognac and which are suitable for longer ageing.
Finally, it is he/she who will create, in the utmost secret, the blends that make up the signature of each brand.
The blender’s art: A constant quest for harmony and consistency
Combining rigour, experience and intuition, the Master Blender (much like the “nose” of a perfume house) creates subtle blends of eaux-de-vie of different ages and crus that will enable the product to conserve not only its full character but also the loyalty of the clientele over the years.
It can not be stressed enough how essential the human factor is in the quality of a bottle of Cognac.
Like distillation, blending is an art - and the perfection of Art is to conceal Art.
Each Cognac is unique
No Cognac is like any other. Indeed, by subtly blending various flavours, each Cellar Master strives to create a Cognac capable of seducing scores of enthusiasts.
The result of this delicate operation could be a Cognac with fruity, spicy, floral, or toasty notes, or notes of rancio for the oldest blends.
NOTEBlending is an age-old tradition, not a rule imposed in the conditions of the Cognac Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée.
BLENDING XO 01 page 1/2
ALSO OF INTEREST
● The Master Blender: A central role in a Cognac house
● The blender’s art: A constant quest for harmony and consistency
● Each Cognac is unique
● “Vintage Cognacs” Section
BLENDING XO 01 page 2/2
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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BLENDING XO 02
BLENDING VSOP 02 BLENDING VS 02
Work of the Cellar Master
Clarification at the end of the video:
Once blended, the eaux-de-vie are stored in large capacity oak blending vats (50 to 300
hl) for a period of time
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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BLENDING XO 03
BLENDING VSOP 03
Sales and marketing regulations
Cognac released to market must comply with strict rules
Cognac released to market must comply with strict rules.
● Wine spirits for direct human consumption are aged in wooden receptacles for at least two years in the region of production (details on the
following screen);● Minimum alcohol content: 40% abv.;● Addition of alcohol is prohibited (as opposed to brandy);● Respect of traditional production methods (in addition to vinification and
distillation methods) as set down in the specifications for the AOC Cognac.
ALSO OF INTEREST
● Details of the appellation in the appendix● Specifications for the Cognac appellation in the media library● The “official texts” section in the media library ● The “Understanding a Cognac label” section
● Cognac released to market must comply with strict rules
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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BLENDING XO 04
BLENDING VSOP 04
“Comptes”: Cognac ageing system
All Cognac for direct human consumption must be aged for a minimum of 2 years in oak casks
Cognac for direct human consumption is aged in oak casks for at least two years in the region of production. (compte 2). Inventory and age control are performed by the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC). (Executive order of July 2003)
The age of any Cognac is taken to be its age at the time of bottling as, unlike wine, alcohol produced by distillation does not mature in bottle.
Ageing indications refer to the age of the youngest eau-de-vie in the blend
This graph indicates the minimum time in oak of the youngest eau-de-vie used in creating the blend. It is not the age of the Cognac in the bottle.
Compte “0” begins on April 1 of the year following the harvest.
A decision of the Government Commissioner to the BNIC (1983 decision) codified the
designations to be used, based on the age of the Cognacs making up the blends.
ALSO OF INTEREST
● 2003 executive order in the media library● 1983 decision in the media library
● All Cognac for direct human consumption must be aged for a minimum of 2 years in oak casks
● Ageing indications refer to the age of the youngest eau-de-vie in the blend
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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BLENDING XO 05
BLENDING VSOP 05 BLENDING VS 03
Understanding a Cognac label
Lead the demonstration. Additional information to mention during or after the
demonstration, if desired:
1/ A Cognac can be identified by the information on its label
This can be
● mandatory
● optional, but regulated
● optional, but they must be justifiable As regulations are updated regularly, we advise you also to refer to the
“How to read a label” page on our website, www.cognac.fr – click on hyperlink in media
library.
2/The appellation Cognac, Eau-de-vie de Cognac, or Eau-de-vie des Charentes must be stated on the label
This is the denomination under which it is sold.
3/ AOC wine spirits can use the word “Fine”
This term provides no additional information (with the exception of Fine Champagne,
which will be explained later), except that it can only be used for Appellation Contrôlée
eaux-de-vie made from wine or cider.
4/ Cognac is traditionally created by blending eaux-de-vie of different ages and crus
This is not, however, mandatory.
5/ 100% of the eaux-de-vie in a blend must come from the cru indicated on the label
When 100% of the eaux-de-vie in a blend comes from a single cru (regional appellation),
the cru can be indicated according to the following rule:
“For the names of regional appellations (crus), place the word Cognac then the name of
the cru between the words “Appellation” and “Contrôlée”. Example: “Appellation Cognac
Petite Champagne Contrôlée”.
6/ “Appellation Cognac Fine Champagne Contrôlée” : Eaux-de-vie sourced exclusively from Grande Champagne (minimum 50%) and Petite Champagne
7/Ageing designations are based on the age of the youngest eau-de-vie in the blend. Cognac may not be released to market without being aged in cask for at least 2 years, calculated from April 1 of the year following the harvest.
BLENDING XO, VSOP, VS 05 page 1/2
8/Ageing designations - mentions or initials such as VS, VSOP, XO.…., - vintages
NB.:
The age of an eau-de-vie corresponds to the period during which it has matured in oak
casks. In contrast to wine, eau-de-vie virtually ceases to age as soon as it is transferred
to a glass container. A Cognac will always be the same age it was when bottled.
Ageing designations are optional indications, regulated in application of European
Community legislation:.
● *** (3-star) or VS (Very Special): The youngest eau-de-vie in the blend is at least 2 years old (compte 2)
● VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale): The youngest eau-de-vie in the blend is at least 4 years old (compte 4)
● Napoléon, XO (Extra Old)**, Extra**, Hors d’âge**: The youngest eau-de-vie in the blend is at least 6 years old (compte 6)
** As of 2016 these designations are expected to require compte 10 for the younger eau-
de-vie
9/ In general, each Cognac house uses eaux-de-vie much older than the minimum requirement in their blends. Those bearing the most prestigious designations may have aged for decades. A ruling of the Government Commissioner to the BNIC (1983 decision) codifies the
designations to be used based on the age of the Cognacs that make up a blend.
BLENDING XO 05, VSOP 05, VS 03 page 2/2
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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BLENDING XO 06
BLENDING VSOP 06
Vintage Cognacs
Vintages: Eaux-de-vie from the same harvest year
All vintage Cognacs indicate on the label the harvest year of the grapes that went into the Cognac.
In the Cognac Delimited Region, eaux-de-vie specifically being matured for vintage Cognacs are generally aged in sealed casks or in separate vintage warehouses. A vintage warehouse is locked with double keys: one that remains with the owner and the other entrusted to the BNIC.
Vintage eaux-de-vie must be monitored extremely rigorously, to authenticate the age of Cognacs marketed as vintage.
Since blending is a key cultural element of Cognac’s identity, vintage Cognacs are not very common.
● Vintages: Eaux-de-vie from the same harvest year
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC XO 01
TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC VSOP 01
The art of tasting Cognac
Awaken your senses…
Tasting a Cognac begins with choosing a glass that will let the spirit express its full personality.
The preferred choice is a “tulip” glass, whose shape has been studied and recommended by experts. The benefit of this type of glass is that it retains the aromas and reveals them with great delicacy throughout the tasting.
For the best tasting experience, make sure the Cognac is at room temperature.
Visual examinationRead the comments at the end of the video
This is the first contact with the Cognac and it is paramount: Fill the glass with about 1 fluid ounce of Cognac. Hold the glass by the foot so you can swirl the Cognac easily, slowly and gently.
Raise the glass to eye level, if possible against a white background, to examine its color and appearance.
Still holding the foot, gently tilt the glass to examine its intensity, while admiring the brilliance of the surface of the spirit. Tilting the glass makes the Cognac “cry”, its tears running slowly down the side of the glass.
You can now describe the Cognac’s colour, clarity and viscosity.
● Its clarity (quality of being clear, pure, transparent) can be characterised as
crystalline, clear, dull, or cloudy.
● Its viscosity (thickness of a liquid) can be described as watery, syrupy, or oily.
Cognac can display a multitude of different hues
Cognac can display a multitude of different hues. Depending on its age, the kind of oak used, etc.
TASTING & ENJOYING XO 01, VSOP 01 page 1/2
● Awaken your senses…
● Visual examination
● Cognac can display a multitude of different hues
● On the nose
● On the palate
● Tasting is a tool used at all stages in the production of Cognac
On the noseRead the comments at the end of the video
There are two ways of perceiving aromas: directly through the nose, or indirectly through the mouth (retro-olfaction).
Smelling the Cognac is the most important stage of the tasting. It is a two-step process.
● First nose: Without moving the glass, you can discern the highly volatile elements that are often extremely delicate and always fleeting. This is called the montant”.
● Second nose: Swirl the glass very gently to aerate the Cognac. The contact with oxygen reveals its aromatic components.
Here you will encounter floral or fruity aromas such as linden flower, grapevine flower, dry vines, freshly crushed grapes, violets, vanilla…
The specific shape of the tulip glass maximises the olfactory experience.
On the palateRead the comments at the end of the video
It is on the tongue and the palate that Cognac reveals its full identity.
Take a sip and suck in a little air over the Cognac in your mouth.
This brings the Cognac into contact with most of the taste receptors in the mouth. The
ambient heat will also cause it to release aromatic vapors that will reach the olfactive bulb
via the retronasal passage.
This is the moment when all the aspects of the spirit’s personality become apparent: is it round, mellow, smooth? Does it have finesse, delicacy, breed, rancio, balance…?
NOTEThe tongue is a sensory organ that can detect sweet (on the tip of the tongue), salty
(along the sides towards the back), sour (on the sides) and bitter (at the back).
Tasting is a tool used at all stages in the production of Cognac
While the enthusiast tastes Cognac for pleasure, professionals also use tasting as a tool in their craft.
In combination with analyses, it is the most reliable method for evaluating and offering consumers products of impeccable quality.
Using this sensory examination, producers can control the different stages of distillation,
follow the changes that take place during ageing, create the blends necessary to produce
Cognac and, finally, evaluate the characteristics of the final product to be released.
TASTING & ENJOYING XO 01, VSOP 01 page 2/2
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC XO 02
TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC VSOP 02
The main aromatic characteristics of Cognac
Fruity notes
Fruity notes vary with the Cognac’s degree of maturation. Younger eaux-de-vie reveal notes of apricot, peach, or pear, while 10-year-old spirits will offer almond, hazelnut, or walnut notes.
After 20 years, muscat, cherry and orange notes dominate; after 40, coconut and passion fruit.
Floral notes
Rose, violet and daisy are the primary aromas of a young eau-de-vie. Iris, lilac and wild carnation characterise 10-year-old eaux-de-vie. After 20 years, orange blossom, jasmine and honeysuckle take centre stage.
Young eaux-de-vie are scented with oak and vanilla. After 15 years, these change to chocolate, incense, or leather. 30-year-old eaux-de-vie are marked by aromas of sandalwood, cedar wood and cigar box notes.
Spicy notes
15-year-old eaux-de-vie reveal notes of ginger, cinnamon and curry. Hints of saffron come out after 20 years and 30-year-old spirits give off balsam and nutmeg aromas.
Rancio
Rancio is characterised by notes of mushrooms, damp undergrowth and walnut oil - complex and specific aromas that develop during the long barrel ageing and increase in intensity with the years.
● Fruity notes
● Floral notes
● Woody notes
● Spicy notes
● Rancio
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC XO 03
TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC VSOP 03 TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC VS 01
Enjoying Cognac
The traditional way: In a snifter or tulip glass
At the end of a meal, serve an old Cognac (Napoléon, XO, Extra) in a snifter or tulip glass.
Take your time to appreciate all the richness of its aromas and its subtle flavours.
● The traditional way: In a snifter or tulip glass
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC XO 04
TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC VSOP 04 TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC VS 02
Enjoying Cognac
Contemporary and cosmopolitan
70% of consumption worldwide is on the rocks, in long-drinks or cocktails
Choose a younger Cognac and let it surprise you!
Around the world, Cognac is most often enjoyed mixed with water, on the rocks, long drinks or cocktails.
The United States and China are particularly fond of these combinations and Cognac can be served as a summer afternoon long drink and even as the main drink with a good meal, all in the same day.
Classic and up-to-the-minute cocktails alike take on an extra dimension, when you add the fullness and vibrancy of a VS *** Cognac or the maturity of a VSOP.
ALSO OF INTEREST
● Suggestions for cocktails, long drinks and more…● Cooking with Cognac… recipes in the media library
● Contemporary and cosmopolitan
● 70% of consumption worldwide is on the rocks, in long-drinks or cocktails
● Choose a younger Cognac and let it surprise you!
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC XO 05
TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC VSOP 05 TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC VS 03
Cognac, enjoyed around the world
Optional comments at the end of the video
Some general information on Cognac markets:
● The foreign market share accounts for more than 90% (96% in 2008).
● The main shipping zones are: Europe, NAFTA (Canada, USA, Mexico) and Asia.
● Number one market: USA.
● The top European market is the UK, followed by Germany and then France.
● Several markets experiencing strong growth have appeared in recent years, in particular
China and Russia. These two countries joined the top 10 in 2004 and 2003, respectively.
If you would like further information on this subject, please consult the most up-
to-date data on our website www.cognac.fr => Facts & Figures => Economy.
Direct access in the media library.
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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AOC COGNAC ANNEXE
THE COGNAC APPELLATION D'ORIGINE CONTRÔLÉE - Appendix
The conditions for making Cognac are explained in various sections. This fact sheet details the rules and regulations that
must be respected for a Cognac to be entitled to is appellation contrôlée. Please save it. It will help you to complement
your presentation by referring to official texts for each chapter.
Name of the appellationGeographic name
The only products allowed to use the appellation d'origine contrôlée “Cognac”, “Eau-de-vie de Cognac”, or “Eau-de-vie des Charentes”, as initially defined in the French decrees dated 1st May 1909 and 15th May 1936, are spirits distilled from wine that meet the following special conditions:
Complementary geographical denominations
The “Cognac” appellation contrôlée can be completed by the following complementary geographical denominations:
● Grande Fine Champagne● Grande Champagne● Petite Fine Champagne● Petite Champagne● Fine Champagne● Borderies● Fins Bois ● Bons Bois
Description of the alcoholic beverageSpirit category
According to EU regulation 110/2008: wine spirit (eau-de-vie de vin).
Wine spirit is an alcoholic beverage:
● that is obtained exclusively by distilling wine or fortified wine to less than 86% alcohol by volume or by
redistilling a wine distillate to a level of less than 86% alcohol by volume,
● whose volatile substance content is equal or superior to 125 grams per hectolitre of 100% alcohol by volume,
● whose maximum methanol content is 200 grams per hectolitre of 100% alcohol by volume,
● whose minimum alcohol content by volume is 37.5 %,
● that does not contain any additional alcohol as defined in Schedule I, point 5, whether diluted or undiluted,
● that cannot be flavoured. This does not exclude traditional production methods,
● which cannot contain any additive other than caramel for colouring purposes,
● which can continue to be sold under the denomination “wine spirit” if aged for a length of time at least equal
to that defined for spirits in category 5.
Cognac belongs to the category of wine spirits subject to restricted controlled production methods:
L'AOC Cognac - Annexe page 1/5
Ageing methods
The Cognac appellation d'origine contrôlée is restricted to aged spirits distilled from wine, except for those that may not be aged because they are destined for industrial use or compound products.
Main physical, chemical and organoleptic characteristics
The wine spirits (eaux-de-vie) must have a volatile substance content equal to or greater than 125 g per hectolitre of 100% alcohol and a minimum alcohol content by volume of 40% at the time of sale.
Definition of the Cognac production areaGeographic origin
The only products allowed to use the appellation d'origine contrôlée “Cognac”, “Eau-de-vie de Cognac”, or “Eau-de-vie des Charentes” are wine spirits made from grapes harvested, fermented and distilled in communes first delimited in a decree dated 1st May 1909 and later modified. The Cognac region includes:
● almost the entire Charente-Maritime department● a large part of the Charente department● several communes in the Deux-Sèvres and Dordogne departments.
A complete list of communes is available in the media library Complementary geographic denominations
The Cognac appellation d'origine contrôlée may be completed by the complementary geographic denominations “Grande Fine Champagne” or “Grande Champagne”, “Petite Fine Champagne” or “Petite Champagne”, “Borderies”, “Fins Bois”, “Bons Bois”, in which case they must comply with the conditions set out here below and be produced only from grapes harvested in each of the above areas as first defined by a decree dated 13th January 1938 and on the understanding that wine production from these grapes, as well as the distillation of this wine, must take place within the bounds of the Cognac region as defined in the decree dated 1st May 1909, since modified. A complete list of communes is available in the media library The Cognac appellation d'origine contrôlée can be completed by the denominations “Bois Ordinaires” or “Bois à Terroirs”. These are used for wine spirits from non-delimited areas within the geographic regions defined above.
NB.: FINE CHAMPAGNEThe Cognac Fine Champagne appellation contrôlée can only be used for a blend of wine spirits that come from the complementary geographical denominations “Grande Champagne” and “Petite Champagne”, with at least 50% from “Grande Champagne”.
L'AOC Cognac - Annexe page 2/5
Description of production methods Grape varities
The white wines used to make wine spirit are made from the following grape varieties:
● Colombard B ; ● Folle blanche B ; ● Montils B ; ● Ugni blanc B ; ● Sémillon B; ● Folignan B (no more than 10% of total grape varieties)
Viticulture
● Vine density Minimum of 2,200 vines per hectare;
● Spacing Maximum 3.5 metres between vine rows;
● Pruning Pruning is mandatory every year. All methods are authorised;
● Number of fruit buds per hectare The number of fruit buds is limited to 80,000 per hectare;
● First authorised crop of young vines To be entitled to the appellation d'origine contrôlée “Cognac”, wines distilled to make wine spirits must be produced from vines no younger than two years after the year in which they were planted, which must be before the 31st of July.
Harvesting, moving and storing grapes
The use of centrifugal vane-type pumps is forbidden to move grapes.
Analytical criteria for grapes prior to fermentation, or for the product to be distilled
At the time they are to be distilled, wines must have a minimum alcoholic degree of 7% and a maximum alcoholic degree of 12%. Their volatile acidity content must be equal to or less than 12.25 milliequivalents per litre.
Yields
The maximum authorised annual yield of wine spirit expressed in pure alcohol is set each year by interministerial decree, based on proposals submitted by the relevant National Comité, after consulting with the organisme de défense et de gestion (body that manages and protects the appellation). This maximum yield can be no greater than 16 hectolitres of pure alcohol per hectare. The maximum annual yield can be increased, in certain instances, by a certain volume. However, any quantity that exceeds the 16 hectolitres per hectare limit cannot be aged. Yields in excess of the authorised annual yield are not entitled to the Cognac appellation. They are to be processed according to article D.664 of the rural code.
Producing grape must
The use of a winepress with an Archimedes screw, otherwise known as a continuous press, is forbidden.
L'AOC Cognac - Annexe page 3/5
Fermentation
The addition of sugar by any means is forbidden. The use of sulphur dioxide is forbidden during fermentation.
Distillation
● Distillation period Double distillation must be completed no later than 31 March of the year following the vintage.
● Distillation procedure - Distillation principle: discontinuous double distillation. Only spirits obtained from the double distillation of wines from the most recent vintage are entitled to the appellation d'origine contrôlée “Cognac”. - Description of equipment: Composition of the “Charentais” still: a boiler heated over an open flame, a head just above and a swan's neck condenser, without or without a pre-heater and a tank with a cooling coil. - Size of the boiler: the total capacity must not exceed 30 hl ( with a 5% tolerance) and the volume is limited to 25 hl (with a 5% tolerance) per distillation. However, boilers of greater capacity (up to 140 hl for a maximum of 120 hl of liquid, with a tolerance of 5%) are allowed on condition that they are used exclusively for the première chauffe (first distillation) in order to obtain a brouillis, or initial distillate. - Parts of the pot still are required to be made of copper: the boiler, the head, the swan's neck and the coil. - Form of heating: over an open flame - Maximum alcohol content by volume after distillation: after double distillation, the alcoholic degree of the wine spirit in the recipient which collects the wine spirit every day must not exceed 72.4% abv. at 20°C. - Distillation when changing from one cru* to another: before stopping the distillation of wine from one cru and changing over to another, the last wine spirit from the second distillation of the first cru is limited to a maximum of 30% of the still's capacity. The flegmes** from this second distillation of the first cru may be diluted in the subsequent cru either by incorporation into the brouillis, or by re-distillation with the wine from the second cru, so long as they do not constitute more than 8% abv.. *The word “cru” refers to geographic sub-divisions of the Cognac appellation as defined in point C-2 of
specifications for the appellation (please see: Definition of geographic regions => Complementary
geographic denominations).
**The word “flegmes” (encompassing “heads”, “tails” and “seconds”) describes the distillate from the
beginning and end of the distillation process which is not allowed to be sold under the name of Cognac.
Ageing
Wine spirits for direct human consumption are aged in wooden receptacles for at least two years in the region of production (as per a modified 2003 decree abrogating the law dated 20 February 1946). This is monitored by the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC) in application of the French tax code (article 302 G and the modified decree of 27 July 2003). The wood used for ageing, in keeping with longstanding local use, is peduncular or sessile oak such as that from the Tronçais and Limousin forests.
Traditional methods
Colouring (as allowed in the EU definition of wine spirits), the addition of oak chip infusions, as well as rounding by the use of products defined in point 3 of schedule 1 of EU regulation no. 110/2008 dated 15 January 2008, are authorised, so long as their effect on the wine spirit is less than or equal to 4° obscuration. Obscuration, expressed in degrees, is obtained by measuring the difference between
the alcoholic strength by volume and the real alcoholic strength.
L'AOC Cognac - Annexe page 4/5
Labelling regulations
The name Cognac can be used without the words appellation contrôlée if it is not associated with any other geographical complementary denomination.
Obligatory declarations
Déclaration annuelle d'affectation (Annual declaration of utilization)Details can be found in the specifications for the Cognac appellation.
Déclaration de revendication (Declaration of appellation contrôlée production)
Details can be found in the specifications for the Cognac appellation.
Keeping a register
The production of wine spirit can be monitored at any time by consulting the operator's distillation register.
Transitional measures
In light of the developments in regulations, transitional measures have been taken concerning grape varieties, viticulture (vine density, spacing between rows) and minimum ageing in the Cognac region (please see the specifications for details).
NB. :
Only the official decree confirming the specifications for the Cognac appellation contrôlée can be considered valid. These are available on our Website www.cognac.fr.
ALSO OF INTEREST
● Specifications for the Cognac appellation in the media library● The “official texts” section in the media library ● The “Understanding a Cognac label” section
L'AOC Cognac - Annexe page 5/5
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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