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Yamaha WR 400 Installation Manual 1. Get a degree in Mechanical and Electrical Engineering. (Just kidding!) 2. Remove the seat, side panels, and gas tank. If you are color blind or even think you might be a little color blind, now is the time to get someone to assist you. Successful installation of the kit requires good color recognition. You want to go riding this weekend, don't you? 3. Unplug the yellow, blue and black taillight wires from the stock wiring harness. 4. Unplug the headlight from the stock wiring harness and remove. 5. Remove the kill switch. Unplug the black/white wire and the black wire from the connectors that were under the fuel tank. 6. Remove the headlight on/off switch. Unplug the three pin connector from its mate that was under the fuel tank. 7. Remove the stock AC voltage regulator (Photo 1) found mounted on the left side of the steering tube. Unplug its connector from the stock wiring harness.

8. This time would be a good time to perform the stator modification to get this task out of the way. Refer to the color “WR 400 Stator Modification” sheet enclosed to complete this portion of the installation.

AC Voltage

Regulator

Photo 1

Photo 2

2

9. License Plate Mount Installation: Locate the aluminum license plate mount and license plate light assembly. If you have the alternative DOT taillight/license plate mount go to step 9B. Remove the rear most nut securing the stock taillight assembly (underneath the fender) (don’t lose the little compression tube and washer). Temporarily install the license plate mount to this location and mark the fender where it needs to be drilled for the rear mounts. Drill the fender in two places with a 1/4” drill and reinstall the license plate assembly using the stock taillight mount and the 6 x 20 mm countersunk screws, bezels and nylock nuts (Photo 2). Run the wires forward along with the taillight wires and up through the grommet in the fender. 9B. Optional License Plate/DOT Taillight Installation: Remove the lens from the stock taillight. Remove the three nuts holding the gray taillight base to the fender and remove base. Locate the 6 x 25 mm bolt supplied with other taillight mounting hardware (small bag #3) and a compression tube from the stock taillight (little brass colored tube that fits inside rubber grommet. Temporarily install the license plate bracket assembly using the rear most taillight mounting hole to determine the drill locations of the two rear mounts (You will have to remove the taillight temporarily to be able to mark the fender). Mark the fender and drill in two places with a 1/4” drill. Install the license plate hanger to the rear most mounts using the 6 x20 mm countersunk screws, bezels and nylock nuts. (Photo 3). Make sure to install the taillight ground wire under the nut for the left hand stud (Photo 4). Run the wires forward and up through the grommet in

the fender. A plastic cover is supplied to cover the opening left by the stock taillight. Transfer drill a hole in the fender for mounting the plastic cover. Install the compression tube provided between the cover and the bottom of the taillight well.

Photo 3

Photo 4

Ground

Wire

Install ring

terminal

under this

nut

Photo 5

3

10. Rear Turn Signal Installation: Turn signal mounting requires that you drill a 3/8 inch hole in either side of the rear fender near where it meets the side panels. You can achieve a clean, durable installation using this mounting location. Mount the rear turn signals by drilling a 3/8 hole in the rear fender in the location shown in Photo 5, 1-3/4 inches back from the front edge (edge just behind subframe) and 2-1/16 “ up from the bottom edge. Important Note: The left rear turn signal leads are two inches shorter than the right turn signal leads. Run the left turn signal wires forward along with the taillight wires, up through the grommet in the fender to the area just behind the airbox crossmember and above the fender. Run the right turn signal wires forward along the right frame rail, and up to the same location behind the airbox.

11. Brake Light Switch

Installation: The WR 400 uses a hydraulic brake switch. This requires replacing the rear master cylinder banjo bolt with a specially made switch. Installing the switch requires bleeding the rear brake. If you do not feel competent bleeding your rear brake, please refer this job to a qualified mechanic as failure to do it correctly will make the brake inoperable. Remove the rear master cylinder guard. Remove the bolt holding the brake fluid reservoir to provide access to the master cylinder. Loosen the banjo bolt securing the rear brake line to the master cylinder. Typically, this bolt will be very tight and loosening it will bend the support hanger for the master cylinder if not supported. Brace the master cylinder with a wrench or lever as shown in Photo 7.

Photo 6

Banjo Bolt

Brace

Master

cylinder

here

Photo 7

Hydraulic

Brake Switch

Copper

Crush

Washer

Brake Fluid

Reservoir

Photo 8

4

Remove the banjo bolt and replace with the hydraulic switch. Make sure to install the copper crush washer from the stock bolt under the switch. Torque the switch assembly to 25 lbf-ft. Run the brake switch wires up the rear subframe triangle to the area behind the airbox cross-member. Bleeding the Brakes: (Do not begin this process unless you have a fresh can of brake fluid) Re-install the brake fluid reservoir and remove the lid. Put the box end of 8mm wrench over the brake bleed nipple and install the bleed hose (supplied) tightly over the nipple. Position the loop on the hose above the nipple as shown in Photo 9 with the other end of the hose in a container to catch the fluid. Crack the bleed nipple open about 1/8 to a quarter turn keeping the loop in the hose vertical. Slowly depress the brake pedal to fill the hose with fluid. Pump slowly until you have brake fluid extending up into the loop, then you can pump the pedal fairly aggressively to drive air out of the system - The fluid above the bleed nipple will prevent air from re-entering the system. DO NOT LET THE RESERVOIR GO DRY - ADD FLUID AS NEEDED. Pump the pedal until there is no more bubbles, then close the nipple with the wrench. Double check that the pedal is firm and the brake works properly. 12. Voltage Rectifier/Regulator and Battery Installation: The battery and rectifier/regulator install inside the airbox on the right hand side. The WR airbox has a double wall for intake noise isolation and for cosmetic reasons. You will need to remove the right outside wall of the airbox temporarily to install the battery and voltage regulator. The outer wall is held on with two 1/8”

pop rivets. Drill out the center of the pop rivets with a 1/8” drill to remove the pop rivets and remove the cover (See Photo 10). Remove the lid to the WR airbox. You will not need to reinstall it Using the template provided at the back of this instruction manual, drill the mounting holes for the battery and regulator. Mount the Baja Designs voltage

rectifier/regulator (aluminum block with green potting) to the front two mounting holes using the slot head screws provided. The heads of the screws need to be on the outside of the airbox. The wires of the regulator should be towards the top (See Photos 10 & 11).

Keep loop

above

bleed nipple

Bleed Nipple8 mm Wrench

Container

Photo 9

Drill out 1/8”

pop rivet

here

Drill out 1/8”

pop rivet

here

Regulator

mounting

screws

Battery

mounting

bolts

Right side

inner airbox

wall

Photo 10

Voltage

regulator

Wires on top

Battery

Wires at top

rear

Zip Tie

Photo 11

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Mount the aluminum “L” bracket provided to the two rear most holes in the airbox. Two washers should install between the bracket and the airbox wall on the inside of the airbox to allow room for a zip tie to fit around the bracket. Remove the backing from the double sided tape and install the battery to the “L” bracket with the wires coming out towards the top rear of the airbox. Secure the zip tie around the battery and bracket. Do not pull the zip tie too tight - excessive force on the zip tie can separate the spot welded tabs inside the battery. Reinstall the outside cover of the airbox using the 1/8” pop rivets provided. If you do not have a pop rivet gun, use the small 4 mm fasteners provide instead. 13. Field Effect Transistor Installation: The "FET" is a small rectangular black box with an aluminum mounting tab and three wires contained in your parts bag. Its function is to save your battery from unnecessary current drain when the bike is stalled but the ignition is still on. It senses AC voltage on the stator output and shuts the headlight circuit off when no voltage is present. One peculiarity of this circuit is that the horn frequency will sometimes fool the device when the engine is off, and the headlight will come on when you honk the horn. This is normal behavior for the system. Remove the top bolt securing the ignition coil to the frame (right hand side of bike next to carburetor. Install the FET switch to this location (Photo 12) using the Allen screw and spacer provided. Make sure to reinstall the ground lead between the coil and the spacer. Suggest using blue loctite on this bolt, as this is a critical ground to ignition function.

FET

Ignition

Coil

Ground lead

Spacer

Photo 12

Run Wires

Behind

Photo 13

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14. Turn Signal Switch Installation: Install the turn signal switch on the left handlebar next to the grip as shown in Photo 13. The clutch perch will have to be moved to the right to make room for the switch. Run the wires along the backside of the handlebar and down over the front of the triple clamps.

15. Power Switch Installation: Mount the switch under the front left handlebar pinch clamp bolt (Photo 14) and run the wires straight down against the triple clamp and behind the clutch cable. Run a zip tie around the odo mount and the power switch wires to strain relieve the wires. Note that the window in the power switch is a high beam indicator.

16. Horn Installation: Install the horn under the left hand bolt of the lower headlight mounting bracket as shown in Photo 15. If you are using the optional DOT approved halogen headlight, you may remove this bracket assembly. The horn is pre-mounted in the headlight shell. 17. Wiring Harness Installation: Locate the long multi-conductor cable with the nylon multi-pin connector at one end. Gently plug this connector together with the one in the front wiring harness. Do not force. If you have trouble plugging the two together, realign the male pins with a small screwdriver to get a good match. Note that dielectric grease has been applied to the female terminals to help prevent corrosion. This grease can be purchased at any automotive parts store.

Power

Switch

Photo 14 High Beam

Indicator

Headlight

Connector

Photo 15

Install

Horn

Here

Multi- conductor

wire routing

Photo 16

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Position the multi-pin connector so that it sits just to the left of the steerer tube. With the handlebars fully turned to the right to make sure there is enough slack in the cable, run the wire down along the left side of the frame, along the stock wiring harness, along the main frame backbone (Photo 16), and then along the inside to the left subframe tube to the area behind the airbox. 18. Flasher Installation: If using the stock headlight, install the flasher to the inside of the headlight (on the right hand side) by drilling two 3/16” holes and using a zip tie as shown in Photo 17. Position the flasher so that the terminals face down. If using the optional DOT approved HP headlight, skip to the next step. The flasher should already be installed to the inside bottom of the headlight. 19. Front Turn Signals:, Loosely mount the front turn signals with the brackets provided as shown in Photo 18 using the longer bolts included. Do not mount the headlight yet.

20. Front Wiring Connections: You will now make all the connections required at the front of the bike.

A. Ignition Switch: The only place the Baja Designs kit interfaces with the WR’s ignition system is through the kill button lead. In no other way does this lighting kit effect the operation of the motorcycle’s ignition system. The lighting system and ignition system are completely separate of each other. Locate the ignition extension lead (white/black pair of wires about 18” long) in the parts bag. Plug the white female connector into the white male lead that comes from the Baja Designs power switch assembly. Plug the black male on that end into the black double female connector in the front harness. Run the extension lead back along the stock wiring harness and connect the white lead to the black/white lead in the stock harness (female connector) where the kill switch connected previously (Photo 19). Connect the black extension lead to the corresponding male black connector in the stock harness.

The rocker switch on your handlebar will function as a kill button and power switch for the lighting. This will prevent you from forgetting to shut off the

Photo 17

Drill 3/16”

Two Places

Zip Tie

Stock

headlight

mountig

bracket

Turn

Signal

bracket

Photo 18

Connect black

and white

ignition

extension leads

here

This

connector is

not used in

dual sport kit

Photo 19

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lights when you turn off the bike, lessening the chance for a dead battery. Note this switch must now be on (depressed on the end with the Hi-beam indicator) for the bike to run.

Note: Disconnecting this white lead will completely isolate the Baja Designs wiring harness from the bike’s stock ignition system, and the bike will run whether or not the switch is on or the wiring is damaged.

B. Turn Signals: Plug the green and black wires into the right turn signal. Plug the brown and black wires into the left turn signal C. Horn: Connect the black and purple pair of wires to the push on terminals at the back of the horn.

D. Headlight and Flasher: Important - If using the stock headlight, replace the stock bulb with the halogen 35/35 watt high low beam bulb supplied. Do not touch the glass portion of the bulb with your fingers. If you do, the oils from your fingers will create a hot spot on the quartz globe and cause the bulb to fail prematurely. The stock stator does not have enough power to keep the battery charged and run the dual sport kit with the stock bulb. If you want to run the brighter 55/60 watt bulb, Baja Designs can rewind the stator to boost its peak output from 80 watts to 130 watts. ($130.00) Plug the headlight connector (black three prong connector) into the back of the headlight. Connect the yellow wire to the yellow wire from the switch panel. Connect the black wire to the black wire from the switch panel (These wires are normally pre-connected). Connect the red and white wires to the flasher. The red wire goes to the terminal labeled "X" and the white wire connects to the terminal labeled "L". Install the headlight. Turn the handlebars from side to side while observing the wires behind the headlight. Make sure they move freely and do not pull or pinch against the cables or other parts of the bike. 21. FET and Stator Extension Leads: Locate the red, orange, and double yellow extension leads from the parts bag. At one end of these wires is a pair of male connectors (one yellow, one with a white band. Plug these two male connectors into the yellow and white female leads from the stator as shown in Photo 20. Don’t miss this step, these are the main power supply leads

for your system. Run the leads back between the upper engine mounts and above the carb to the area behind the FET switch (Photo 12). Connect the orange, red and yellow wires to the matching wires on the FET. Run the remaining four wire bundle across to the left hand side of the bike and along the

Photo 20

Connect Stator

Leads Here

9

inside of the left sub-frame rail with the gray multi-conductor harness, to the area just behind the airbox. 22. Rear Wiring Connections: You will now make all the connections required to the wiring harness at the rear of the bike. Take your time to do a neat job here so that you will have a reliable lighting system. Refer to photographs to copy wiring layout. If you make a mistake in the following steps, the worst that could happen is the bike will catch fire and burn to the ground (NOT). Refer to Photo 21 and Photo # 9 of the color stator modification sheet for wire placement and layout. A. Run the wires from the voltage regulator towards the back of the airbox and install a zip tie at the back right corner of the airbox. B. Plug the black male lead from the rectifier/regulator into the shortest black female lead from the main wiring harness.

C. Temporarily Remove the fuse from the fuse holder.

A

B

C D

EF

GGH,S

I

Photo 21

J

K,LM

N

O

P

Q,R

10

D. Plug the short black pigtail off the black voltage regulator lead with the female connector into the male black lead from the battery. E. Turn the red male lead from the voltage regulator back on itself and plug it into the red lead from the battery. F. Locate the red, orange, and double yellow extension leads from the parts bag. Plug the two yellow male connectors from the voltage regulator into the twin yellow female connectors from this extension lead. G. Locate the orange lead in the stator and FET extension harness, and plug it into the orange lead from the main gray multi-conductor harness. H. Plug the red male lead from the extension harness into one side of the red double female connector from the main gray multi-conductor harness. I. Plug the female end of the fused lead into the blue lead from the main wiring harness. J. Run the taillight wires across the back of the subframe cross member and then plug the blue wire into one of the blue/red female connectors from the main wiring harness. K. Plug the black taillight wire into the closest black double female connector from the main wiring harness. L. Plug one of the wires from the right turn signal into the other side of this black double female connector. M. Plug the other lead of the right turn signal into the green lead of the main wiring harness. N. Locate the red and yellow pair of wires coming up form the brake light switch. Plug the red wire from the brake light switch into the other red/blue single female connector from the main wiring harness. O. Plug the yellow lead from the brake light switch into the yellow lead from the taillight. P. Plug one of the leads from the left turn signal into the brown wire from the main wiring harness. Q. Plug the other lead from the left turn signal into the black double female connector that is on the end of a short pigtail in the main wiring harness. R. Plug the black lead from the license plate light into the other side of this black double female connector. (Not Applicable to kits with DOT Taillight S. Plug the red lead from the license plate light into the open slot in the red double female connector from the main wiring harness. (Not Applicable to kits with DOT Taillight) T. Re-install the fuse into its holder.

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The wiring installation is now completed!! Depress the power switch to the right (On the side with the Hi Beam indicator lamp). The rear taillight should come on. Try the turn signal switch to the right and the left. Both the front and the back signal should alternate on and off. Honk the horn (unless its after 11 PM!). The headlight will not come on until the engine is running. Note: On some systems when the engine is off, the headlight will come on when you honk the horn. This is a peculiarity with the FET headlight switch which senses the horn frequency and interprets it as the engine running. This will in no way affect the normal operation of the system.

If every thing is working properly congratulate yourself on a job well done. If not, don't worry, it's not rocket science and we should be able to figure it out. All the components were checked for operation prior to being shipped to you so something is probably not connected correctly. See the trouble shooting list in a later section.

19. Wrapping it Up: It is important that all the wires be properly routed and secured. Double check the photos and sketches with regards to wire routing. Make sure the wires do not pass over any sharp edges, are pulled overly tight, or can be crushed by the seat, tank, fender, etc. Use all the zip ties provided to securely fasten the wires. Any unwanted movement or chafing means early failure when off the road. Note : When zip tying the wires, do so separately of the radiator vent hoses to the overflow tank. There should be no ties around these hoses other than the ones that were stock on the bike. Refer to Photo 22 as to how the wires should be routed and zip tied at the rear of the bike. Make sure all the silicone rubber connector boots and the connectors are pushed firmly together and no bare metal is exposed. Put on the seat, tank, and side panels, slide on down to your local DMV, and then go roost!

TROUBLESHOOTING

Photo 22

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Nothing Happens When You Turn the Power Switch On. • Fuse is blown. Check for bare wire or terminal shorting against the frame or another wire. • Multi-pin connector not properly connected. • Battery connection poor. Make sure the connectors are fully seated. • Battery is dead. Measure voltage with voltmeter, or connect a 12 volt light across it. • Poor connection at the blue wire junction and the fuse lead. The Turn Signals Won't Come On, or Won't Flash • The wires on the flasher are connected backward. The red wire goes to the terminal labeled "X". • Check turn signal wire connections. • Make sure you have connected the correct wires to the turn signals. Check instructions. • Battery voltage is low. If the battery voltage is low, the turn signals won't flash, or will flash very slowly. Running the bike will cure this as well as charge the battery. The Brake Light Won't Come On •. The rear brake system is not properly bled. • Maybe it's on already. Brake and tail connections are reversed. The brake light is already on so their is no increase in light intensity when you activate the brake. Check the yellow and blue taillight connections. • Short the two leads together at the brake switch. If the brakelight comes on, either the brake switch is defective, or the brake system is no properly bled. Everthing Works Except the Headlight • The bike has to be running for the headlight to work. • Make sure the three prong connector is correctly plugged in and that the wires leading to it are plugged into the harness. • Does the high beam indicator come on when the bike is running and high beam selected? If so, the bulb is burned out or defective. • If none of the above is successful, disconnect the red and orange leads that plug into the FET, and plug them into each other (not the leads on the FET). This bypasses the FET switch. If the headlight works now when the power switch is on, then either the FET is defective or one of the stator leads, stator extension leads or the yellow lead to the FET has a short to ground. Inspect or measure with an Ohm meter. If you still need assistance, call Baja Designs at (619) 792-0213. Care and Feeding of your Battery: Your kit contains a 12 volt 0.8 ampere-hour Ni-Cad battery. These batteries are very durable, require no maintenance, and can be mounted in any position. There are certain things you can do however to maximize its life. The alternator and voltage regulator in your kit keep your battery fully charged while you are riding, however, when you turn the engine off and the lights are still on the battery is being discharged. With the new transistor switch it will take about 30 minutes for the taillight to discharge the battery. With the Ni-Cad battery if you forget and leave the lights on, don’t sweat it. You can deep cycle (drain down and charge back up) a Ni-Cad all you want.

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If you are doing a lot of slow trail riding where you are on the brakes a lot, the battery may slowly discharge. The WR 400 has a wimpy stator stock (about 80 watts at 5000 rpm), so if you are doing a lot of slow and go riding, unplug the headlight to charge the battery back up. Riding the bike will recharge a drained battery (good excuse for riding, huh?) (for best results, disconnect the headlight temporarily while the battery recharges) or you can recharge it with a small trickle charger (we do not recommend this unless absolutely necessary). Do not charge it with more than 0.5 amperes, and keep an eye on the amount of time and charging voltage. When the voltage across the battery gets up to 14.5 to 14.8 or it feels warm to the touch, disconnect the charger. Overcharging will kill a battery faster than anything. A battery measuring 12.9 to 13.2 volts when not connected to a load or a battery charger is fully charged. If the bike is going to be sitting for more than a month, it is recommended that you disconnect the positive terminal of the battery to prevent it from discharging. There is a small amount of current that leaks back through the rectifier when it is connected. Maintenance: Occasionally examine the wires in your lighting system to make sure they are not chaffing or binding so that they don't cause you a problem when you're out on the trail or on the road. A well routed, properly secured wiring system is key to getting long life and trouble free performance from your conversion kit. The light bulbs take a beating on a dirt bike, especially the rear taillight’s. The continuous vibration and impact can cause the bulb contact to prematurely oxidize, causing the bulb to fail. Occasionally remove the bulbs (taillight and turn signals) and scrape the soft contact at the base of the bulb and clean its mating contact in the lamp assembly.

Service Tips

14

If you need access to the carb or shock absorber, it is not necessary to unplug any wires except for the two wires going to the hydraulic brake switch. Simply loosen the top subframe mount, remove the bottom subframe mounts, unbolt or remove the muffler, loosen the airboot on the carb, and rotate the subframe up and forward to provide access as shown in Photo 23 (XR 400 shown). We use a tie down to hold it in place. If you need to remove the subframe, do not unplug all the wires, unplug just the FET wires, the stator leads, the brake light switch and the large multipin connector at the end of the gray main harness. This will allow you to remove the entire subframe without disturbing any of your wiring or zip ties.

Baja Designs • 7558 Trade St San Diego • California • 92121 • (619) 578-9111

Fax (619) 578-9077 E-Mail: bajades@bajadesigns.com

Internet: http://www.bajadesigns.com

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