WOODBRIDGERIVERSIDECHARACTERISATIONSTUDY

CONTENTS

IntroductionDefining the AreaEvolution of the CharacterMovement PatternsSpaces within the RiversideLandscape FeaturesCycles of Time and their EffectScaleBuilt FormsThe Character Areas-Key Plan1 Downstream Riverside2 The Station Area3 Ferry Quay/Whisstock’s Yard4 Quayside/Nunn’s Mill5 Sun Wharf/Lime Kiln Quay

Photographs of old Woodbridge usedin this document are reproduced bykind permission of:Suffolk Record Office, IpswichThe East Anglian Daily Times

Maps in this document are based uponOrdnance Survey material with thepermission of the Ordnance Survey onbehalf of the Controller of Her Majesty'sStationary Office © Crown copyright.Unauthorised reproduction infringes Crowncopyright and may lead to prosecution orcivil proceedings. Suffolk Coastal DistrictCouncil LA07960X2004.

Suffolk CoastalDistrict Council

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Michael MuntDip TP, MRTPI, Grad Dipl Cons (AA), IHBC, IDBEPlanning, Building Conservation,Urban Design

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INTRODUCTION

The Woodbridge RiversideCharacterisation Study wascommissioned by Suffolk CoastalDistrict Council in July 2003, andprepared by Michael Munt in thesummer of that year. It comes at atime when there has been increasedpressure for change in this specialarea, and follows the dismissal ofan appeal, in January 2003, againstthe refusal of planning permissionto redevelop the formerWhisstock’s Boat Yard for riversidehousing.

The study forms a part of the RiversideManagement Plan, and it is intendedthat it should complement theWoodbridge Riverside Planning Brief,covering potential development sitesincluding Quayside Mill, the old gasworks site and Whisstock’s Yard.Suffolk Coastal District Councilproposes to adopt the planning brief,after public consultation, assupplementary planning guidance.

The methodology used in this study isbased firstly, on the conceptsdescribed in English Heritageguidance including “ConservationPlans in Action” and “InformedConservation”. 1

Both publications stress the need to:• understand historic

buildings and theirlandscapes

• to then possible to assesstheir significance

• to identify the conservationissues, which can enable us

• to formulate appropriatepolicies for retention of thesignificant characteristics ofthe area.

The study format is based on the workcarried out in 2001in Helston,Cornwall, titled “HistoricCharacterisation for Regeneration”. 2

To quote this study:“This information (the findings ofthe survey) can certainly be used asa conventional conservation andplanning tool to define constraints,as a yardstick against which tomeasure new development andpolicy proposals and as the basis ofwell founded conservationmanagement, restoration andenhancement schemes andpolicies”.

It is important to add remember that“conservation” is not the same as“preservation”. Change is a necessaryelement of our environment andconservation seeks to accommodaterather than resist it. Indeed, in thegovernment guidance on the historicenvironment, it is stated that“conservation and sustainablegrowth are complementaryobjectives”. 3

REFERENCES

1 “Informed Conservation”, p 12, EnglishHeritage, 2001.

2 “Cornwall and Scilly Urban Survey”, p 41,Stephanie Russell for Cornwall CountyCouncil 2001

3 “Planning Policy Guidance” note 15, 1994,paragraph 1.4

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DEFINING THE AREAWoodbridge lies at the head of theRiver Deben estuary, twelve milesfrom the open North Sea. The studyarea covers the west bank of theriver, within the immediate area ofWoodbridge, stretching from thewharf adjoining the Deben Mill levelcrossing in the north, down river toa point south of the Deben YachtClub Boat Park.

The landward boundary is definedby the railway line, or in the centralcore by the Quayside-Station Roadroute, with the inclusion of theformer Quayside (Nunn’s) Mill to thenorthwest.

The eastern boundary is undefined,it could be expressed as a line inthe centre of the river channel, butthe widest definition includes allparts of the eastern shore that arevisible from within the study area,as these long distance views arevery important.

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THE EVOLUTION OFTHE RIVERSIDECHARACTERIn order to be able to define thecharacter of a place, we need toknow about its past.

The geology of this part of east Suffolkvaries from most of the rest of thecounty. The underlying chalk is hereoverlaid by a light sandy soil, fromdeposits known as Red Crag, ratherthan the heavy boulder clay that isfound a few miles inland. Neolithicsettlers found the soil here easy toclear, and to cultivate, however, thefertility was soon exhausted, andWoodbridge was fortunate in beingclose to the richer agricultural landaway from the coast, which providedproduce, as well as good qualitytimber for ship building and export.

The town proper stands on a hill awayfrom the low-lying water front, wherefrom the middle-ages onward, thesaltings were “inned” with earth walls,to became fresh water grazing marsh,which was still at risk of flood, and notvery stable. To build more than a shedupon stilts involved raising the site withspoil from elsewhere. If this processwere economically viable, then theriverbank would gradually moveoutward as happened in parts ofWoodbridge. Here, the riversidebuildings were mainly for essentialwater-based industries including saltrefining, boat and shipbuilding,warehousing, coal-yards, and theservicing of ships.

In Woodbridge it is only on the slightlyelevated original Quayside, (which isnow between ninety and a hundredand fifty metres from the water’s edge)that we find substantial houses andinns from before the eighteenthcentury. Houses of any quality on theformer marsh were rare. Who would

wish to live in such a damp, misty, andunhealthy location?

When T. K. Cromwell wrote of theRiverside in 1818, trade was still themain activity:

“Here are two quays; the CommonQuay, where the chief imports andexports are, and where the fineWoodbridge salt is made, andabove this is the Lime Kiln Quay,where formerly the “Ludlow” man-of-war was built.”Also-“A considerable trade is carried onhere in corn, flour, malt, cheese,coals, timber, deals, wine, foreignspirits, porter, grocery, drapery, andironmongery goods.”

Cromwell refers to another shipyardsouth of the Common Quay (todaycalled Ferry Quay), but this was, in1818, “shut from the river by a mudwall, and almost filled up”. 4

Above: Part of an early nineteenth centurywater colour of Jessup’s Quay

REFERENCE4: Excursions in the County of Suffolk,T. K. Cromwell, 1818 p15

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THE EVOLUTION OF THERIVERSIDE CHARACTER

There were also warehouses atJessup’s Quay, where the small beachis now located. Ships sailed toLondon, Newcastle and Sunderland,and there had been an increase in theexport of corn, but sea salt productionand other industries were in decline. Inthe nineteenth century Woodbridgebecame unviable as a trading portbecause, as the tonnage of shipsincreased only places like Ipswich thatdredged their river, and created non-tidal wet docks were left with anysizeable amount of trade.

Even in 1818 one can detect that thearea was beginning to be seen ashaving a more healthy environment,giving it an alternative raison d’ etre.Cromwell tells us that Woodbridge wasalready“generally admired by travellersfor its healthy and salubrious air,many of its inhabitants having livedto the advanced age of eighty,ninety, and some few to an hundredyears old”.

Below: A late nineteenth centurypostcard shows the beach whereJessup’s Quay had been. The originalfirst shelter is in the distance.

Above: Riverside in 1827, a plan bylocal map maker Isaac Johnson

Part of the riverbank below Ferry Quaybecame a promenade, and the TownBeach was made in about 1870.Boathouses, pavilions,shelters and other leisure structuresbecame more common. They were notof great integrity but had an ornatecharacter. By 1915 there was a picturehouse (now the Riverside Theatre) onthe site of a ropewalk and formermaltings.

In Woodbridge the riverside hadevolved over the centuries as a placeapart from the town, but in the 1850’sthis separation became morepronounced. The new railway linecreated a physical demarcationbetween town and riverside. Incrossing the marsh to avoid demolition

or costly excavations in thehigher town area, the tracks cutoff the quays from their urbanhinterland.

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THE EVOLUTION OF THERIVERSIDE CHARACTER

The divisive effect of the railway trackswas partly ameliorated by the levelcrossings provided at TheAvenue/Jetty Lane (off KingstonRoad), Ferry Quay, Tide Mill Way(Hayward’s crossing), Lime Kiln Quay,and Sun Wharf. A public footbridgewas built at the east end of the stationplatforms.

Below: Woodbridge railway station withits original footbridge soon after 1859.A schooner is moored near the Quay.

Robert Simper has written: “After the railway reachedWoodbridge in 1859 most of thebusiness people lost interest inshipping. The shipyard closed, andas local schooners were lost or soldthey were not replaced”. 5

He also indicates that the sailingbarges, which with their shallow draft,greater speed, and lower operatingcosts were to dominate the river in thelate nineteenth and early twentiethcenturies were like most of the localfishing fleet owned not by Woodbridgepeople, but by outsiders, especiallyfrom Essex.At least the station made the areaonce more the point of arrival forvisitors to Woodbridge. There wereother advantages, new industry suchas the gas works arrived and existingmaltings, granaries and lime kilnsrequired new buildings.

In the 1930’s a new food- processingfactory opened off Hamblin Road.However, the latter half of thetwentieth century saw a steadycommercial decline, with the TurbanFoods factory closing just after the gasworks themselves became redundantin the 1970’s. Dutch coal bargesceased to call at Sun Wharf. The TideMill had closed in 1956 (though it waslater reborn as a museum) and thebuilding, repair and sale of small boatsbecame the sole surviving water-based activity. The 1970’s and 1980’ssaw the upgrading of Quayside andStation Road with the new leisurecentre and community centrealongside. The former mill pondbecame the Yacht Harbour and boththe Woodbridge Cruising Club andDeben Yacht Club expanded. The re-use of some buildings by smallbusinesses increased and diversifiedthe employment base.

REFERENCE5: “The Deben River-an EnchantedWaterway”, p10, Robert Simper, 1992Creekside Publishing

Below: For a century the Gas worksstood close to the Tide Mill.

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MOVEMENTPATTERNS

Potentially the riverside is well locatedto attract visitors. Trains on theIpswich-Lowestoft line stop at its heart,and local buses stop on Quayside andStation Road. Car parking is plentiful.However, the scarcity and elusivenessof the crossing points over the railwaycan be a deterrent to pedestriansespecially those with children andneither is access straightforward forthe elderly, infirm or disabled(especially when in a wheelchair).There is a need for both safe andlegible access for everyone.

The Station Road/Quayside relief roadroute forms a further barrier. It allowstraffic to avoid the town centre, and itserves various car parks within, ornext to the riverside area, but whilstnot as impenetrable as the railwayline, it is often perceived as anintrusive and potentially dangerouselement.

Once across these barriers, non-vehicular movement parallel to theriver is quite straightforward. Mostsurfaces are level and facilitatestrolling with any meanders that arenecessary adding interest for thepedestrian. South of Ferry Quay, theriver-wall footpath is an establishedspine route. There is some conflictbetween cyclists and walkers on thenarrow path. Strictly speaking bikeriding is banned here, but this mode oftravel is generally being encouragedand this raises the cyclists’expectations.

North of the Tide Mill a waterside pathonce provided an unofficial route withfar reaching views. The yacht harbour(the former mill pond) river entrancesevered it and the option of using theforeshore is not practical due to thetides and the increasing depth of themud. The walker is able to have closecontact with the river at high wateronly where hards or boat launcheshave been formed, or at the beach.Below: Some barriers to pedestrians.

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MOVEMENT PATTERNS

Above: Cyclist and walkers share the riverwall. Below: Potential conflict betweenpedestrians and cars on Tide Mill Quay.

Vehicular traffic tends to penetrate thearea in fingers reflecting the historiclayout with the need to gain directaccess to the waters edge.Fortunately, due to this establishedgrain of the area and the dominance ofthe railway line, fast through traffic can

come no closer to the shorethan the StationRoad/Quayside route.However the trafficentrance to the YachtHarbour, next to the Mill isan area of potential conflict.

For those afloat, the wholeshoreline is accessible tosmall boats close to hightide, but there is concernover the recent apparentbuild-up of mud in berths,and over slipways.

Where boats enter theyacht harbour through thegap formed in the oldmillpond wall there is a sill,which at low waterbecomes an obstacle.Passage across the riverfor those with no access toa boat is no longer possibleas the ancient foot ferrywhich had been animportant link betweenWoodbridge and Suttonsince the middle ages,closed in 1974. Mud nowcovers both the high andlow water slipways fromwhich it ran, but there isrenewed interest in itsrevival, especially as theSutton Hoo Burial Site hasbecome an even moresignificant visitor attraction.

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THE SPACES WITHINTHE RIVERSIDEThe waterfront of Woodbridge canbe described as the town’s façade,a continuous, but unified sequenceof townscape elements stretchingfor over a mile along the west bankof the Deben.

This was a favourite aspect of thetown in old illustrations. In order tocapture this complete panorama onehas to view the town from the Sutton,or east shore, or else from a boat.Many visitors to the west bank willnever have seen this completecomposition, in which, to use anarchitectural metaphor, the low lyingquays, waterside buildings and mastsform a plinth from which the built uptown rises to form the main elevation.

On the west bank entering the areafrom the town can be visuallyconfusing, as the entrance fromQuayside to Ferry Quay demonstrates.

Below: Mixed visual messages at animportant entrance to the riverside.

RIGHT: A TOWNSCAPE ANALYSIS OF THEFERRY QUAY AREASS = SMALL SPACESF = FINGERS OF LINEAR DEVELOPMENTFP= FOCAL POINT

DEFINING “TOWNSCAPE”

If one ignores the individual details ofa building, manmade feature orlandform but considers all of these asbuilding blocks in a three dimensionalmodel of an area, one can understandits “townscape”. The blocks, theirrelationship to one another and thespaces between them are a veryimportant factor in subdividing anyarea, including the riverside into aseries of “Character Areas”.Sometimes these areas overlap, andsometimes where they include softlandscape features such as saltings,or water they are not straightforward todefine.

Within the riverside, we find asuccession of linked spaces, mostlyopen ended but partly enclosed by“fingers” of development aligned atright angles to the water. There is aprogression of vistas that extenddownriver for miles, sometimes as faras Ramsholt, close to the mouth of theDeben, and yet the sea itself is neverquite visible, and a thin strip of land onthe horizon contains this large wateryspace.

Certain features, notably the Tide Millact as a focal point and a visual“anchor” (a term used by a formerWoodbridge resident to describe hisperception of the building), and theseenable one to locate one self whennavigating the area, in a boat, or onthe shore.

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THE SPACES WITHIN THERIVERSIDE

“OWNERSHIP OF SPACES”

The spaces discussed in this study arevisual spaces and therefore theytranscend other boundaries includingphysical barriers to movement, and thedemarcation of ownership. As a result,especially in areas such as FerryQuay, the space that is considered bymany to be part of the public realm,may well be in private ownership.Indeed, the visitor may have no right ofaccess, but can still feel that the viewinto, or across the space is somethingthat is owned by him or her andeveryone else. Any change that affectsthis view e.g. the building of a wall,can radically affect the publicperception, and this feeling of visual“ownership” of the area as a whole.

Below: Gaps show us small intimatespaces, with glimpses of landmarks orfocal points e.g. the Tide Mill.

Above: The same landmark can form apositive visual closure to another muchlonger space.

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THE SPACES WITHINTHE RIVERSIDERight:THE SPACES AND OTHERVISUAL ELEMENTS OFTHE RIVERSIDE

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LANDSCAPEFEATURESAll the topography above the highwater line, (and some of it below)has been modified by man. The low,but prominent hills of the easternshore have changed in about 200years, from heath land to enclosedfields to the present mix of woods andlarge fields.

Above: Down river, the enclosed marshwith, on the far bank woods and farms.

The modified Woodbridge bank has alinear emphasis, reinforced by thecomparatively flat terrain. It echoes thewide expanse of the surface of thewater, especially at spring tides, when,for just a few hours, the land is inplaces below the water line and losesits superiority over the river, seemingto be in retreat. Land and water thenappear virtually as one, and thecombined plane stretches to the farshore which itself merges with the sky.

At low tide, we can see that thedivisions between land and water arealso man made. A notable interventionwas the millpond (now the yachtharbour). Quay and river walls areoften faced with concrete or brick,providing a stark interface with fluidmud and water. There are few placeswhere the land surface still slips gentlyinto the water.

Right: New planting on the wall top.

Above: Modified river banks.

The early earth river walls were softand grassy with few trees except somehawthorns, or a hardy oak. On thefresh water marsh behind the riverwall, the recent planting of evergreens,eucalyptus and rowan in closeproximity are changing the once opencharacter.

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LANDSCAPEFEATURESIn the 1980’s concrete up-stands withmetal gates to be shut in the event of atidal surge, were added to the earlierwalls. This introduced an especiallyhard, straight line, which the plantingof ivy and other creeping shrubs willonly marginally soften. Also, the line ofsight onto the river, which was alwayslow, is now often totally disrupted.

Below: A concrete upstand above an olderearth wall.

Above: Wading birds alongside thesaltings.

Soft mud, covers the exposed riverbedexcept where the saltings, colonisedby sea lavender, samphire and coarsegrass are a result of the accumulationof silt.

Adjoining the quays, vegetation isscant (not surprisingly in this saltyworkman-like locality) but there aresurprising green interlopers, such asthe pear tree at the margin of thebeach, and some foliage, both planted

and self sown, is establishing itselfalongside the promenade. Inland areself-sown birch, alder and willow,amongst surviving reeds, rushes andgrasses.

Above: The beach, and other man madeelements are modified to a degree bynature.

The surfaces to paths, roads andworking areas between the river edgeand the railway have (from evidence inold photographs) been very simple,with a minimal dressing laid when theneed arose. On the promenade andthe town side of the tracks, however,hard surfaces, some kerbed separatefootways, and boundary fences andwalls have been present for manyyears. The latter are often haphazard,poorly designed in appearance, and ina bad state of repair.

Below: Serviceable and unpretentiousground surfaces as once foundthroughout the area.

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THE CYCLES OFTIME AND THEIREFFECT ON THERIVERSIDECHARACTERThe Riverside has a transientcharacter, changing according tothe time of the day or year. It isaffected by the presence of differentgroups of users. Will the tide beup? How far can we see today?

The most obvious changes areproduced by the river’s tidal range,which in Woodbridge is about threemetres. Many moorings dry out andberthed vessels spend a large part ofthe day sitting on the mud. The mud isseldom grey or brown, but takes onthe hues of the sky- silver, blue orpink. The tides change not only therelationship between land and water interms of relative heights and the visualimpact of masts and sails of craft, butthey change the perception of the riveritself. Its constantly changing sizeexposes, and then covers marinevegetation, mud banks, and manmade features such as slipways, and

dock walls. It transforms itself from amuddy creek to a spacious harbourwithin a few hours.

Seasonal changes also have animpact such as opening up, ormasking in fog or snow views in winterIndigenous vegetation, including thaton the saltings is radically affected.The patterns of use of water, andwaterside also vary. In summer thereis human activity until well into thenight, but in the winter, it is possible toexperience complete solitude, and toclosely observe nature.

Below: Sea Lavender in autumn.

Above and below: In summer the riversideattracts a wide range of visitors.

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THE SCALE OF THEAREAScale is not just about size. It isabout the relationship of the humanfigure to its surroundings, and alsothe relationships between thevarious elements within an area.

The riverside has a varied scale thatcan surprise the eye, but never feelsdaunting, oppressive, or hostile. Theindividual components of boats andbuildings, such as openings, claddingsor overhangs are often of a similarsize. A sudden discovery of a longvista can come as a refreshingexperience that demonstrates thedifference in scale between the windblown estuary, and the intimate humantownscape.

Below: A surprising juxta-position ofvisual elements, but here the scale ofthe buildings and the boat are thesame.

Most buildings relate well to eachother, and form part of a group. Thelarger industrial buildings are still incontext, if not in scale. One cancomprehend why they are there. Inlong distance views, there are atpresent, none that “hog the limelight”,and even the Tide Mill, recedes intothe background in some views.

Below: In long views, the landscapedominates even the largest buildings.

Above: A change in scale demonstrates thevarying function of adjacent buildings.

The working character of much of theriverside, even today, means that asmall or fussy embellishment or articlethat has no real function will look quiteout of scale with its surroundings. Thisneeds to be considered when makingnew designs for street furniture andsmaller structures.

Left: Large, open views accentuate thesmall scale of many built structures.

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BUILT FORMSAt first sight there is not a greatsense of uniformity of styleamongst the riverside buildings.

The oldest buildings are mainlydomestic, and as such not typical ofthe area. They are found on Quayside,the mediaeval waterfront before quaysand dock buildings spread out into theriver. Ferry Quay (once the CommonQuay) was accessible to every one,and as the heart of the commercialport it acquired two storey brickwarehouses with pantile roofs in theeighteenth century. At that time brickwas generally only used on houses orbuildings of higher status such asmaltings, Nunn’s Mill, and the railwaybuildings.

Above: Many buildings on reclaimedland are of lightweight construction.

The Tide Mill (last rebuilt in about1796) is the oldest, and tallest non-domestic structure, and with theadjoining granary, has a timber frame,clad with weather-boarding.Its survival is a testament to thedurability of such lightweight materials.

On Lime Kiln Quay a similarwarehouse clings on to life despiteyears of neglect.

Below: Substantial early buildings onthe original riverbank.

Corrugated steel sheeting is thesuccessor to boarding, giving timber orsteel frames protection and externalbracing. It is evident on many of thebuildings in Whisstock’s yard, andother buildings, such as the offices inTide Mill Way. The material is also ofcourse, used on roofs and othersurfaces. It has almost become avernacular material on the riversideand in time it acquires a patina, whichis not without character.

We should not forget the cranes,jetties steps and smaller structuresthat also had important functions, andadd visual interest and despite their“see through” qualities, a degree ofenclosure.

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BUILT FORMSRiverside buildings are not withoutinteresting details, but they rarelygive way to fussiness. The principleof “form follows function” hasproduced two strongcharacteristics in the area.

1 HORIZONTALITY

Like fingers, the quays, landing stagesand many buildings stretch toward andinto the river, mainly aligned at atangent to the shore. They re-enforcethe grain of the area and echo thehorizontal lines of the boats and theland. They are mainly one or twostoreys and only for special functionsdid they reach the size of the largeshed at Whisstock’s. This “long andlow” theme is often stressed by achange in finishes from the lower tothe upper tiers of the building. The roofadds another visual layer.

2 LASTING IMPERMANENCE

Riverside structures, and theirmaterials, like timber and tin are oftenof a temporary nature. They would beexpected to gradually crumble or rotaway in this exposed location withoutregular upkeep. The level ofmaintenance may often be minimalbut, as on the Tide Mill, sufficient tokeep the building stable andserviceable for centuries.When their fortunes change, they canbe resuscitated for another fifty yearsor more. This is not enduringarchitecture of the Shire Hall calibre.Instead the individuality results fromfrequent adaptation to changingrequirements and whilst there is afunction, it has as a reasonable lifeexpectancy.

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THE CHARACTERAREASFollowing from the discussion of“The Spaces within the Riverside”,Five areas, numbered from south tonorth, present themselves as themost cohesive areas of commoncharacter.

“These character areas aredifferentiated from each other bytheir varied historic origins,functions, and resultant urbantopography, by the processes ofchange which have affected eachsubsequently and the extent towhich these elements andprocesses are evident in thecurrent townscape”. *

*as defined in: Historic Characterisation forRegeneration- Helston study, CornwallArchaeological Unit 2002.

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CHARACTER AREAONEThe Downstream Riverside-A RECREATIONAL SPACEFOR WOODBRIDGE

This area stretches from the TownBeach, adjoining the Ferry Quay,down river as far the angular bightto the south of the Deben YachtClub slipway. It is largely containedby the railway to the west, and theshore-line to the east. It has its ownvehicular access by way of a levelcrossing, leading from the tree linedAvenue, and a public car park.Recreation is established as thedominant activity, typified byEverson’s Boatyard, the ModelYacht Pond, and clubhouses for thetwo main Woodbridge sailing clubs

THE ARRANGEMENT OF SPACES

The area forms more than just onelarge visual space. There are longviews downstream, across to Sutton,and upstream to the sparkling whiteTide Mill, and inland, notably over thereed bed near the beach, past laid upboats, to the houses on Quayside.Here is a rare visual link between theold and modern waterfronts.

Below: Quayside across the reeds.

Also, due to the changes in levelbetween the raised river wall footway,and the sunken marsh, it is alsopossible to descend into smallerspaces with their own character,contained from the river, and eachother. Such areas are Everson’s boatyard, and the Model Yacht Pond area.

Below: Everson’s boat park from therailway crossing.

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CHARACTER AREA ONE

BUILT FORMS

The few buildings mainly sit on oragainst the river wall. Everson’s andthe small café on the former marsh areboth boarded. They are the oldest andsurvived the 1953 flood.Various shelters and a brickbandstand on the promenade have novisual unity. As the successors to theornate originals, perhaps anopportunity to provide innovative “one-off” replacement designs was missed.The other dominant structures are thetwo sailing clubs, one above the wall,and one on the outer face, both havingtimber cladding. There is muchconcrete applied to the river wall andits added up stands.

Above: Eversons yard with a brickshelter that replaced the Victorianstructure.

Above: Woodbridge CruisingClubhouse

PLANTING AND GROUNDSURFACES

Above: The Boat Park adjoining the oldcafé and model yacht pond.

There is formal planting in the YachtPond area. Willow, Aspen and Birchhave established themselves awayfrom the river along ditches andboundaries. There is little vegetationon the river wall itself. It is much moretypical of a sea defence on the eastcoast.

Above: The view inland from the southend of the character area.

The marshes immediately west of thewall have been partly given over todinghy parks and shrubs and trees areencroaching. One can just make outthe indentations from the originalsaltings, but left to its own devices ithas gradually stabilised and acquireda new character. The reeds increaseits natural interest, and bio-diversity,especially on the large downstreambeds where the marsh joins a risingrural backcloth.

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CHARACTER AREA ONE

Above: The apron in front of Everson’ssheds.

The ground surfaces are informal, andoften no more than gravel ortarmacadam. There are concreteaprons close to the boatyard, andaround some of the waterside sittingareas. The latter seem an anomaly asone approaches the softerdownstream character with its timberslipways and jetties.

THREATS AND OPPORTUNITIES

• There is concern that thetides are depositing moremud along the shore line.

• The demand for additionalmoorings, parking for boats,and the need for access tolaunch craft can, if allowedto, impinge upon the opencharacter, as well asdamaging the ecologicalbalance.

• The removal of certainvegetation, and drainage ofhitherto wet areas such asreed beds could also erodethe area’s identity.

• The provision of shelters,viewing points and signscould avoid standarddesigns, and insteadencourage simplecontemporary designs bylocal artists.

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CHARACTER AREATWOThe Station Area-A MEETING PLACE

The area lies between the railwayon the south-east, and StationRoad/Quayside on the north. Itincludes the Riverside Theatre, theRailway Station, and its forecourtarea, and to the south west, theDeben Pool/Community Centre site.

Above: The station can appear isolatedby fences and cars.

The arrival of the railway in 1859 withthe station located close to the southend of Quay Street made the riversideonce more the point of arrival for mostvisitors from outside the town(although not by water). The area canbe busy today when a train arrives, but

most people are heading into the town.Those trying to find a route to the riveroften require help from the TouristInformation Office, which fortunately islocated in the station buildings.

This character area has its ownattractions; the Riverside Theatre is acinema and live theatre with arestaurant, sitting out area and kiosk.The Anchor pub is on the corner ofStation Road and Quay Street, andthere is a café in the station buildingalong with a taxi office.

THE ARRANGEMENT OF SPACES

The large parking area betweenQuayside and the station is fairly wellenclosed by buildings. The widest gap,in any case looks south to thewaterside masts. The station is off setfrom the line of Quay Street, as indeedis the Riverside Theatre, which resultsin the vista from the town approachfocussing upon an ice-cream kiosk.There is no clear view to the river, andlittle sense of direction or anticipation.

Below: The junction of Quay street andQuayside looking toward the RiversideTheatre.

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CHARACTER AREA TWO

The first impression of muddle isreinforced by the subdivision of thelarge station space by fences andhedges into what seems to be randomareas. The station is not the focal pointit should be, indeed the role istransferred to a solitary houseremodelled in the mid twentiethcentury, and now a dental clinic. It isout of alignment with Quayside andcompounds the sense of visualconfusion, compromising the setting ofthe Quayside houses.

Below: Buildings on the originalQuayside with the suburban house inthe foreground.

Above: The theatre forecourt.

The Riverside Theatre looksnorthward, and has no main elevationonto the station space, and the long,solid railway shed to the southwestalso retreats behind parked cars.

Above: The former railway shed.

MOVEMENT

The channels of movement out of thespace are obvious in both the east andwest directions, indeed in the latter theset-back of the fairly recent telephoneexchange on the north side ofQuayside makes the gap wider than itneed be. The pedestrian routes to theriver still remain obscured, and there isa risk of walking into a parking cul-de-sac, or the service area to the theatre,the car driver is very much in control,with virtually no areas reserved forpedestrians only. Crossing the railwayby footbridge is a real problem for anyone with walking difficulties.

The upgrading of Quayside/StationRoad to form an inner relief roadgreatly benefited the town centre.However, the impact of traffic onQuayside is such that it is a perceivedobstacle, and no longer is it a pleasantstreet to walk along, especially at itsnarrowest points.

The area around the Deben Pool andthe Community Centre lacks definitionin terms of planting or paving, andagain for the pedestrian there is littlesense of direction. The car parkingthat surrounds these buildings isnecessary, but unduly obtrusive.

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CHARACTER AREA TWO

BUILT FORMS

The buildings fronting Quayside arethe oldest in the study area. The latemediaeval, timber-framed groupincluding the old Ship Inn, the stillfunctioning Anchor, with the adjoiningrow of red brick Georgian frontedhouses foreshadow the rest ofWoodbridge. The rather incongruousdental clinic building is believed tohave at one time been the station-master’s house.

The exterior of the Riverside Theatre,in contrast to its opulent interior, isbland but the former railway shed, likethe station has well detailed Victorianbrickwork, in a vaguely Italianate styleof good solid proportions. It isunfortunate that some elevations onboth buildings have been painted.Other original track-side ranges havegone, but recent alterations to the “up”platform included the insertion of largeglazed areas, which go some way tomaking the back of the station relate tothe river. The wrought iron footbridgeis perhaps the most memorable of thestructures in this group.

Above: The main elevation of thestation.

Both the Deben Pool and CommunityCentre are “stand alone”, in theirdesign. They borrow nothing fromhistoric precedent in terms of roofform, materials or details. As they date

from the 1980’s, to containcontemporary functions, their honestyis to be respected in our time whenpastiche is widely used.

Above: The form of the Deben Poolwhen seen from the river has anindustrial character that is not out ofcontext with the adjoining goods shed.

PLANTING AND GROUNDSURFACES

Apart from on the Quayside/StationRoad route, ground surfaces are a mixof low key large areas of black top,with many areas in need of attention,including the approach to the railwayfootbridge. Some hard surfaced tractsadopt unrelated, not especially highquality paving blocks or insituconcrete. White lines showing parkingand restricted areas are very intrusive.Other areas have no adequatesurfacing, allowing weeds to grow, andinviting rubbish to be dropped.

The forecourt to the Riverside Theatre,much of which is partly covered in animitation turf, has the potential to forma well-defined paved space.

25

CHARACTER AREA TWO

On the north side of Station Road,west of Quay Street, overlargeplanting beds are out of context withthis historic street. The proliferation ofrandom, unsightlysigns throughout this part of thecharacter area clashes with the wellproportioned building facades.Whereas the overhead wires andpoles found in other parts of theriverside are not usually intrusive, andindeed nearby masts and rigging, likethe signs they mar this more formalspace.

Below: The scatter of signs and otherstreet furniture on Station Road.

Above: Oversized white markings anduncoordinated surface finishesadjoining the station.

There are some trees, but theirplanting adopts no formal pattern.The hedges, reflecting ownershipboundaries, have a formality, but it isquite unrelated to the station forecourtas a whole. The remnants of picketfencing have historic antecedents, but

appear today quite out of scale, andimpermanent.

THREATS AND OPPORTUNITIES

• Busy Quayside/Station Roadis no longer pleasant to walkalong, especially at its pinchpoints. Reducing thecarriageway width andimproving the quality andscale of footways/plantingwould help. Through trafficcould be calmed, ordiscouraged by these meansand changes in surfacematerials, better signing and,even a 20 mph speed limit.

• The whole area between theStation and Quaysideincluding the theatreforecourt needs a new hardand soft landscapingstrategy. It has the potentialto become an urban squareand an inviting area in whichto meet, sit and eat.

• The re-modelling of thecentral Dental Clinic (formerstation master’s house)could form a visualcentrepiece.

• Well-sited new trees couldlessen the impact of parkedcars. Signs and streetfurniture need to berationalised, and of a simple,modern design. Overheadwires should be laidunderground whereverpossible.

• Distinctive paving could giveincreased pedestriandominance and help peopleto navigate their way to theroad and railway crossingsand to the waterfront.

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CHARACTER AREATHREEFerry Quay, Tide Mill Quayand Whisstock’s YardTHE HUB OF THERIVERSIDE

The area is defined landward by therailway, down stream by the TownBeach and upstream by the YachtHarbour, it includes Tide Mill Quay,and Whisstocks Yard.

Here is a working space in the weekthat becomes a place for pleasure atthe weekend. There is an architect’sstudio on Bass’s Dock, larger purposebuilt offices off Tide Mill Way, and boatrepairs, boat sales, an art gallery,cafes and a museum. It has cateredfor recreation since the first recordedDeben Yacht Race 1784. The firstregatta was in 1838 and in 1870 theTown Beach was laid out. Bandconcerts, and other formal eventswere staged here, as well asswimming competitions. The caravancafe near Bass’s Dock has beentrading since the middle of the lastcentury, and boat trips still runfrom the Quay. Upstream of the TideMill, the old millpond became a yachtharbour in 1962.Although not an area for substantialhouses, some people live here in a

part of Bass’s Dock warehouses, andfor at least a part of the year, on thelarger boats. This practice is notencouraged by planning policies andindeed would change the character ofthe Quay were it to become thedominant activity on the water, butthere is no doubt, that a few committedresidents canprovide both security, and animation.

Above: A Dutch barge moored on FerryQuay has become a home.

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CHARACTER AREA THREE

THE ARRANGEMENT OF SPACES

The entrances into this area do notgive a wide panorama of the river.Small, open-ended spaces, defined bybuildings, quays, and cranes, arevisually reinforced by moored craft andface riverwards.

Above: The entrance to Ferry Quay

The quays, jetties, and slipways,formed a template for today’sarrangement of spaces, and theorientation of most buildings. The firstof these, the Tide Mill Quay stretchingfrom the former Boat Inn, to the ferrylanding, has become built up alongmuch of its length, so that it now feelsalmost like a street until, close to theMill long views suddenly open out.

Above: Tide Mill Quay fromWhisstocks.

The Ferry Quay dock is identifiable asan open-ended space. A similar spaceexists in the angle formed by Tide MillQuay and Whisstock’s Yard (now shutoff from the river by the most recentflood-wall). Raised bunds, fences, and

planting which enclose much of theYacht Harbour emphasise that it is aplace apart.

The sudden presence of the river canbe an overwhelming contrast to theintimacy of the smaller spaces. Thereare long vistas downstream, andacross to the Sutton bank, which risessteeply from the water as a visualboundary to the Riverside space. Withits undulating landforms, plantations oftrees, and arable fields, it reminds usof a lifestyle not connected to thetides, or the town. The Tide Mill groupscreens many upstream views.

Above: The Sutton shore backcloth.

MOVEMENT

The easiest way to move around athigh tide is of course by boat, butpedestrians can generally wander atwill, with the exception of the yachtharbour area. The river wall path isshut off and vehicular traffic to andfrom the gated harbour entrance usesthe otherwise tranquil Tide Mill Quay.Small boats are launched from thebeach.

28

CHARACTER AREA THREE

BUILT FORMS

Above: The Tide Mill group.

Most structures are still somewhatindustrial in their appearance. Thethree-storey Tide Mill and Granary aredominant. The mill was grinding until1956, but then stood empty until itbecame a museum, with only anexternal timber escape stair to reflectthe change. The loss of the large saltwater mill pond to the Yacht Harbourwas partly compensated for by theformation a smaller pond, whichenables the wheel to turn fordemonstration purposes. The granarynow comprises flats above the groundfloor which contains a workshop and acafé.

The group is clad in crisp whitewooden weather-board. For some timebefore 1956 it was cheaper to replacethe boards with red corrugated steelsheeting. The patina that it hadacquired was popular with artists,resulting in strong support for itsretention in the 1972 restoration of themill. In and around the emptyWhisstock’s Yard are examples of allthe dockside facing materials. Thelarge shed has a roof of variouscoloured sheets giving it a texture andhue noticeable in longer views.North of Tide Mill Way, is a recentcommercial building (“Top That”Publishers), it uses modern steelcladdings, which reflect but do notcopy the lightweight, non-domestic feel

of the boat yard. The bold detailssuggest a design approach to befollowed on other new buildings.

Above: The “Top That” building.

The cranes, hoists, storage containers,external stairs and ladders, mooringposts and wooden poles withelectricity lines form a frenzy of ribsand “wire-scape” that would be out ofcontext in mostconservation areas. Here, theirfunctional feel is not out of place withboats, lines and rigging.

Above: Ferry Quay Cranes

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CHARACTER AREA THREE

PLANTING AND GROUNDSURFACES.

There is no tradition of formal plantinghere apart from the ivy and otherevergreens intended to creep over theconcrete river walls. The smallplanters that appear alongside thehouseboats or the caravan café withmore tourist-related street furniture arenot permanent. Signs, small shrubsand street furniture have beenintroduced to Tide Mill Quay. Similarly,ground surfaces in the working areasincluding the quays were compactedgravel or other informal treatments.Brick, and later concrete werereserved for quay and dock walls,where they were weathered by tides.

Above: Formal paving arrangements-do they reflect waterside character?Below: The contrasting robustness ofthe working area.

THREATS AND OPPORTUNITIES

• There is a general threat to“upgrade” or remodel the areaas for example at Ferry Quay bydredging berths, andencouraging a move away fromthe existing jumble of differentuses. The existing contrastbetween the quay and the yachtharbour is a valuablecharacteristic that other placeshave lost. It is an asset to becultivated rather thaneradicated.

• The temptation to “beautify”such areas, using alienmaterials, or fussy “heritagestyle” street furniture can beaccompanied by the loss ofexisting features such asworking cranes and docks thatstill give access to all boats.Leisure use does not have todestroy such features andmodern, robust designs shouldbe used for essential new seats,bins, signs and bollards.

• The path along the inlandboundary of the yacht harbouris need of some levelling, andrationalisation of planting andthe intrusive fence.

• The fame of the small scale,informal caravan café iswidespread. Why change orstandardise it? Perhapsadditional features such as awaterside pub are justified.

• If anywhere is to be tidied up, itis the beach, which has lost itsformer attractiveness.Appropriate restoration isneeded but pollution andexcessive mud are also aconcern.

• Small information plaques,trails and discreet directions tokey features could explain howthe area worked in the past, andits significance today.

30

CHARACTER AREA THREE

Whisstock’s Yard-a key to the future?

After the Tide Mill, Whisstock’s BoatYard is the most conspicuous builtelement in the character area. In 2003it lies empty, following its closure in1992 and has a depressing effect onthe dock.The yard began in the 1920’s, onformer marsh between Ferry Quay andTide Mill Way. The first buildings (onstilts) were replaced by the 1950’s withpermanent structures. Closed flood-defence gates now separate the largeconcrete apron facing the dock, fromthe slipway and boat launch.With a working yard these would beopen for most of the time, establishingan important visual relationship, andallowing the public to gain somecontact with the constant activity.

Above: THE YARD WITH THE RECENTFLOOD DEFENCE WALL AND GATES

There is no historic precedent forhousing here, and there must nocompromise of the setting ordominance of the Tide Mill.The existing buildings have thehorizontal emphasis and riverwardorientation found throughout the

area, giving a reference point fordesigning new buildings. This is noplace for the use of one heavy materiallike brick, or for a pastiche of anotherarea.

Above: THE ABANDONED SLIPWAY

The new buildings on the site, andreplacement use should pick upconventions left by its predecessor.New development should retain theslipway, and the open front, withperhaps the red store, (or else anew replacement focal point) andalso introduce some high qualitynew architecture to the site.

Above: The key components of aredeveloped Whisstock’s yard.

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CHARACTER AREAFOURQuayside, including theQuayside (Nunn’s) Mill-A BUSY AREA OF CHANGE

The area lies between Quayside andthe railway line, extending south-west from the Hamblin Road andQuayside junction to the RiversideTheatre. It also takes in QuaysideMill (once Nunn’s Mill), on the townside of Quayside.

Above: The riverside meets the town atthe junction of Quayside and the roadto Ferry Quay.

This is still a working area, with anumber of small businesses in re-usedbuildings. There are small workshops,offices, retail uses, and survivingmarine businesses like Seedhouse’sBoats.

Until the 1970’s The town’s gas worksstood opposite Quayside Mill on thesouth side of the since upgraded road.

THE ARRANGEMENT OF SPACES

At the east end of the area the divisivecharacter of the upgraded relief road isemphasised by the bleak forecourt infront of Quayside Mill (the recessive,unexceptional character of the millitself does not help). Opposite, a longbrick wall fronting the Gas Works sitehelps to contain views alongQuayside, but closes the vistas alongthe residential Doric Place and BrookStreet in two disappointing anti-climaxes, and blocks potentialglimpses of the waterside.

The demolition of the Turban factory,off Hamblin Road removed any senseof visual enclosure from thesouthwest. The Elmhurst Court flats(north of the Hamblin Road car park)

whilst far from beingoutstandingarchitecturally, partlyredress the loss oftownscape caused bythe widening ofQuayside and the un-landscaped car park.There is openness,without views to theriver, and the plantingalong the strip betweenroad and railway is oflittle visual effect.

32

CHARACTER AREA FOUR

Above: Large lamp standards on thewide relief road (the northern section ofQuayside). Elmhurst flats on the leftreinstate some visual closure.

Below: The old Gas Works site.

Some smaller spaces within this areaare more congenial to the pedestrian.The area near the junction of Tide MillWay with Quayside. The first spaceincludes a “pinch point” on Quaysidenear the former Boat Inn reflecting theearlier road width. The garage court tothe rear of the Boat rather destroys theintimacy of Tide Mill Way. One cansee the waterside boat masts anddespite the plethora of signs aroundthe level crossing these give somesense of arrival. There is a similarconflict at the entrance to Ferry Quaybut here the display of Seedhouse’sboats also gives a visual message, atone of the few points where the feelingof a shoreline meets the town proper.

MOVEMENT PATTERNS

Unless one works in one of the localbusinesses, one is passing throughthis area (probably driving alongQuayside). Traffic from Tide Mill Way,the Yacht Harbour and Ferry Quayemerges in this area, and mostlypasses through the short. narrowcorridor between The Boat Inn, andthe A.T.C. building, where the feelingof a street still exists. The impact oftraffic is such that this is not a pleasantstreet to walk along. The crossings,one close to Quay Street, and onenear Hamblin Road corner, are theonly safe routes to the town.

Above: The “pinch point” near the old BoatInn.

BUILT FORMS

Quayside, (the original strand) hassome late mediaeval buildings, two ofwhich were inns, as well as at leasttwo houses from the 17th century. Allexhibit vernacular materials anddetails.

There has been rebuilding on thenortheast stretch of Quayside, wherethe fairly standard industrial boxesincluding Quayside Mill, could beanywhere. Elsewhere the scale isquite small with buildings reflecting“lasting impermanence” in choice ofmaterials.

33

CHARACTER AREA FOUR

Above: Looking back to Quayside fromFerry Quay with traditional buildingforms. Below: Quayside Mill andQuayside looking southwest.

Above: Informal ground surfaces

PLANTING AND GROUNDSURFACES

As with much of the riverside there aresimple ground surfaces with no raisedfootways except on Quayside.However, the increasing scatter ofsigns, posts, and barriers can conflictwith this traditional approach creatinga disjointed appearance. OnQuayside, despite separate footways,pedestrians feel vulnerable to the busytraffic, especially where the pavementis lower than the road. Random

surfacing, and poor street furnituredetract from the setting of the olderbuildings.

Trees and shrubs are mainly selfseeded with a few pockets of denserplanting, e.g. on the corner of Tide MillWay, and along the re-alignedQuayside and railway line interface.

THREATS AND OPPORTUNITIES

• The present continuous wallenclosing the old Gas Workssite prevents any river views,and ignores the scale of thesite’s industrial past.Redevelopment could bringa varied street frontage.

• The variety of uses andbuilding types in the area isthreatened by large-scaledevelopment of combinedsites and standard designs.

• Tide Mill Way north of therailway has a flat roofedgarage court. This, like othergap sites could be enhancedby small scale, sensitiveredevelopment.

• Quayside was not always amajor traffic route, with widegaps and bleak vistas.

• Redevelopment of theQuayside Mill/GasWorks/telephone exchangesites could create visualinterest and enclosure.Repaving footways, plantingtrees at the Hamblin Roadjunction, and using highquality street furniturethroughout would produce aa pedestrian friendly street.

(Other opportunities for integrating Quay-side/Station Road into the urban fabric areoutlined in Area 2).

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CHARACTER AREA FOUR

Quayside (Nunn’s) Mill

Until a fire in 1963, a three storeyVictorian brick granary and twobrick houses stood here. The twostorey replacement building, is atbest, anonymous, and fails to relateto the houses nearby or toQuayside, (now an importantthrough route).

The site, fully developed could putback some sense of visual closure,and interest into this part ofQuayside.

In building over part of the existingMill forecourt (but safeguarding theview and other amenities ofadjoining Doric Place), andproviding at the corner of CrownPlace a two storey (minimum)element, it is possible to create afocal point from the Quay Streetdirection, and a buffer against thebusy road for nearby residents.

This is also an opportunity for alandscaped court to be formedbetween 11 Doric Place and the newbuilding.

The redevelopment of the old GasWorks site also produces a chanceto form a new vista from the southend of Doric Place to the watersidearea.

Brick buildings predominate here,in a location that was always abovethe tide line and a reference to theold Nunn’s Mill, would stillincorporate elevations appropriatein scale to its residentialneighbours.

Key componentsin theredevelopment ofNunns Mill andadjoining area.

35

CHARACTER AREAFIVESun Quay, Lime Kiln Wharf,and Robertson’s Yard-THE OTHER WOODBRIDGEHAVEN

The area stretches upriver from theYacht Harbour to a point just northof Sun Wharf. The railway is itslandward boundary.

To the visitor this is the most elusiveand surprising of the character areas.The approaches, on foot, and by carare obscured, mainly by encroachingvegetation, but also, from the south bythe curve in the river and theprojection of Tide Mill Quay, and theYacht Harbour. The reconfiguration ofLime Kiln Road, in the 1980’s alsoformed a devious entrance route fromthe town.

In the 19th century timber yards, aropewalk, and shipyards stretcheddown to Lime Kiln Quay, where thedeepwater channel comes close to theshore. Sun Wharf, immediately to thenorth, had warehouses and a spurfrom the railway. Inside the area,remnants, including houses survivefrom this vibrant past. Immediatelydownstream is Robertson extensiveand busy boatyard. It is a survivor fromthe many small yards that were oncefound along the East coast.

Below: Robertson’s from downstream

Above: The riverside path between theyacht harbour and Robertson’s yard.

THE ARRANGEMENT OF SPACESAND MOVEMENT

Entry routes, as already noted arenarrow, or visually misleading. Walkingfrom the south, the footpath, that attimes is an unmade road, is like agreen tunnel.The raised river wall, and theencroachment of trees and shrubsobscure the river, and the route ahead.On top of the wall, close to CedarHouse, a view of saltings, mooredcraft, and the working yard unfolds,framed by the undulating easternshore.

On leaving this enclosure, an unmadestreet lined with a variety of buildingsopens out, with glimpses betweenthem to the river and the boatyard.Over-head wires fan out to the twostorey houses.

Below: The road north fromRobertson’s towards Lime Kiln Quay

36

CHARACTER AREA FIVEThe approaches from the town, on footor by car are by way of two levelcrossings. The rundown and informalappearance of these approachescontrasts with the municipal neatnessof the Lime Kiln Road Car Park, whichwas laid out on the line of an earliernarrow lane, To enter the area, onemust know the route or look for telltales of masts on the sky line.

Above: Lime Kiln crossing

Such is the loss of status of Lime KilnQuay that the modern road swingssouth hugging the railwayline. This is an uneasy relationship,extensive planting fails to obscure thetracks and the oversize lampstandards and a continuous brick wallscreening Elmhurst Park emphasisethe superiority of the highway. Thegable end ofRobertson’s shed is just visible.The space around Lime Kiln Dock haslittle visual cohesiveness and someplots are overgrown. However thegreatest change to both this dock andthe adjoining Sun Wharf (notaccessible by a right of way) is thesteel and concrete parapet which nowsurrounds each inlet. At over a metrein height these effectively make usingor even viewing them properlyimpossible.

Above: Lime Kiln Dock

The footpath to Sun wharf is over-grown on either side by shrubs.Upstream from Sun Wharf, the path ison top of the raised flood defence(incorporating the old wall). There aresweeping views to the east, northeastand downstream to the masts of theYacht Harbour, but the Mill is hiddenby a large warehouse.

Here, views inland are changing withthe growth of trees on a small pocketof reed bed and the newDeben Mill mixed use development tothe north, which includes blocks of fouror more storeys emulating floormaltings.

The presence of this very urbangrouping comes as a surprise. Thereis a link to the open, quiet stretch ofwaterside over a level crossing. It issurely essential that the occupants ofDeben Mill are able to use thecrossing for access to this remarkableasset on their doorstep.

BUILT FORMS

The area has a variety of buildingtypes and styles. At Lime Kiln Dock,the buildings are scarcer than theywere, and the warehouses that servedit and adjoining Sun Wharfhave in many cases been reduced tomodern storage sheds, or wide spanblocks.

37

CHARACTER AREA FIVE

A bungalow now stands on the tongueof land between the docks. Betweenthe, docks, aligned with the lostrailway siding, is a two- storey remnantof a malting group. The gentle curveon its flank wall displays the skill of theVictorian brick layer. Facing the backof Robertson’s, the brick and flint“Stone Cottage” is also of note for itsuse of materials.

Below: A malting remnant

Above: Stone Cottage

Between it and Lime Kiln Quay, a rowof substantial brick houses turns thecorner by the dock head with a “crow-step” gable.

The attached boarded warehouse,quite likely the oldest building in thisarea, is derelict with its timber framedpartly uncovered.

Above: The warehouse group

North of Robertson’s, a timberbungalow hides the river, and thespace between the two, where from1912 to the 1940’s an open air seawater swimming pool brought a leisureactivity to this working area.The yard itself has various structures,each erected for a purpose and thenmodified or extended as need dictated.The large red painted steel shed sitshappily next to smaller boardedstructures. The buildings on landcombine with the boats in front of themto visually comprise one continuallychanging group.South of the yard, some of these craft,including barges and smallcoasters, are lived upon.

Above: Established houseboats

Their life-line to the shore is a longwooden jetty, behind which amongsttrees sits the mid 20th century CedarHouse, which is also faced in wood.

38

CHARACTER AREA FIVE

LANDSCAPING AND GROUNDSURFACES

These elements could here bedescribed as “shaggy”, as befits aninformal, yet still workaday location.The most intrusive planting is wellintentioned, but has introducedspecies such as eucalyptus andLeyland cypress to the former marsh.The changed environment behind theraised walls is allowing thesenewcomers to oust reeds, thorn, andother indigenous plants. On theground, hard surfacing is minimal,without separate footways.

Below: Sun Wharf yard

THREATS AND OPPORTUNITIES

• Despite neglect by ownersand insensitivity by statutoryauthorities, this is still adiverse, self-sufficient area.

• Sun Wharf needs long termcommercial uses to stave offthe threat of decay. Newbuildings should comprisetraditional roof spans, withmodern yet sensitive androbust details.

• At Lime Kiln Quay, thederelict timber warehouse iseven more at risk. A lightindustrial or small office usecould utilise this notablebuilding. (The Tide Mill groupset an example some thirtyyears ago).

• There are other oldstructures worthy ofretention. New buildings onthe footprint of those alreadylost could finance repair ofsurviving structures, andrestore economic viabilityand a sense of place to thearea.

• The possibility of adjustingflood defences around LimeKiln Quay to allow someform of visual access to thewater should be explored.

• Creeping decay is not soapparent aroundRobertson’s Yard, but thesaltings area to the south isunder threat from theexpansion of the YachtHarbour. Proposals to “tidyup” or remove the boatsclustered about the jettywould bring radical change.

• The quiet area upstream ofSun Wharf needs little morethan some sturdy plankseats, from which to watchthe birds, sky, and water.