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12: 2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O M THE WATCH MAGAZINE REDEFINED[ J O U R N A L ]

mechanism The automatic-winding mechanical movement has earned the Geneva Hallmark.

®

design Sophisticated styling and refined details conceived for women who love fine watchmaking.

warmth The warm glow of polished red gold is enhanced by the brilliant fire of diamonds.

V A C H E R O N C O N S T A N T I N P A T R I M O N Y C O N T E M P O R A I N E L A D Y

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Dior VIII Grand Bal “Plume” Model.Pink gold, diamonds and ceramic.

“Dior Inversé 11 ½” automatic calibre, 42-hour power reserve.

Patented oscillating weight in gold set with diamonds and feathers. w

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Dior VIII Grand Bal “Plume” Model.Pink gold, diamonds and ceramic.

“Dior Inversé 11 ½” automatic calibre, 42-hour power reserve.

Patented oscillating weight in gold set with diamonds and feathers. w

ww

.dio

r.com

- 1

-866

-675

-207

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E S T. 1 9 6 1

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QUICK READST H E W A T C H M A G A Z I N E R E D E F I N E D

12:2013 WATCHJOURNAL.COM

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INDUSTRY WATCHThe inside track from the world of watches—the brands, the business, the industry as a whole.+

BELL & ROSSBlack PVD and a photoluminescent dial in a bold new GMT

GRAHAMA sterling tribute to the pocket watch-es of brand namesake George Graham

+++

EVENT WATCHWho’s doing what, where and why: Discover how the watch industry influences events, philanthropy and celebrities.

DÖTTLINGRevving up security with a Mercedes Gullwing–inspired safe

+

+ ROMAIN JEROMERows of diamonds dress the newest pieces in this maker's retro-futuristic Titanic DNA Steampunk Collection.

|

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JEROMERows of diamonds dress the newest pieces in this maker's retro-futuristic Titanic DNA Steampunk Collection.

LUXEFINDERWatch Journal brings together top products from every corner of the luxury market.

R

top products from every corner of the

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Patrimony Contemporaine

Hallmark of Geneva, Pink gold case, Hand-wound mechanical movement

Réf. 81180/000R-9159

Hallmark of Geneva, Pink gold case, Hand-wound mechanical movement

April 1819. François Constantin takes responsibility for the worldwide business expansion of Vacheron Constantin. During a business trip to Italy, this visionary man coined the phrase which would become the company motto in a letter addressed to the manufacture: « …do better if possible, and that is always possible …».

True to this motto and to the spirit that forged its history, Vacheron Constantin still remains committed to pushing the boundaries of watchmaking in order to provide its clients with the highest standards of technology, aesthetics and fi nish.

WatchJournal_VC11884_PatrimonyCont1819.indd 1 10/16/13 11:50 AMWJ26_Vacheron_1017_mk.indd 1 10/17/13 9:53 AM

INSIDE062 FOR THE RECORD

Handcrafted Vinylize frames get their groovy looks from vintage vinyl.

124AUCTION WATCHThe one-of-a-kind Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Regatta raises more than $54,000 for medical research in the fifth Only Watch auction.

WHAT’S

INSIDE

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132PERPETUAL

MOTIONA flying tourbillon with

an all-new spherical hairspring takes cen-

ter stage in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s newest

Gyrotourbillon.

052

AMERIcAN dEbUTThe Bell & Ross six-watch Flight Instrument Box set makes its first US appearance.

PERPETUAL

A flying tourbillon with an all-new spherical

hairspring takes center stage in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s newest

The Bell & Ross six-watch Flight Instrument Box set makes its first US appearance.

PERPETUAL

A flying tourbillon with an all-new spherical

hairspring takes center stage in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s newest

Flight Instrument Box set makes its first US appearance.

140

052

sTUff Of LEgENd The new Indian Chief Classic revives a legend of the American road.

CO_WJ26_011

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AD17016_RLWJ_National_Ads_HOL13-Mens_Sprd_WatchJRNLDECEMBER

MISC. PRINT SPECSStock: N/A

Quantity: N/A

Inks: CMYK

Notes/Misc: N/A

Date: 09/12/13 12:50PM

Page: 1

Studio Artist: Angela

Round DISK

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Project Mgr

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INTRODUCING THE RL67 TOURBILLON

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EQUIPPED WITH A MICRO-ROTOR

SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL CASE BACK

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SWISS MADE

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Quantity: N/A

Inks: CMYK

Notes/Misc: N/A

Date: 09/12/13 12:50PM

Page: 2


Round DISK

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The Ralph Lauren RL67 Safari Collection

NEW YORK BEVERLY HILLS LAS VEGAS DALLAS CHICAGO BAL HARBOUR

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Quantity: N/A

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Notes/Misc: N/A

Date: 09/12/13 12:50PM

Page: 1


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Project Mgr

Ad Design

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INTRODUCING THE RL67 TOURBILLON

STAINLESS STEEL

45MM MODEL

GUNMETAL FINISH

SELF-WINDING TOURBILLON

MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT

EQUIPPED WITH A MICRO-ROTOR

SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL CASE BACK

38-HOUR POWER RESERVE

SWISS MADE

39684RL_Mens Watch Journal December.indd 1 9/12/13 12:52 PM



Quantity: N/A

Inks: CMYK

Notes/Misc: N/A

Date: 09/12/13 12:50PM

Page: 2


Round DISK

Proofreader

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The Ralph Lauren RL67 Safari Collection

NEW YORK BEVERLY HILLS LAS VEGAS DALLAS CHICAGO BAL HARBOUR

BETTERIDGE GREENWICH HAMILTON JEWELERS PALM BEACH MOYER FINE JEWELERS INDIANAPOLIS

FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF STORES, PLEASE VISIT RALPHLAURENWATCHES.COM

39684RL_Mens Watch Journal December.indd 2 9/12/13 12:52 PMWJ26_Ralph Lauren_1017_mk.indd 3 10/17/13 2:21 PM

RIGHT ON TIMEThe timely arrival of new watches in the year's coolest color is sure to make for happy holidays.

ONE-OF-A-KIND EVENTUnique watches raise record amounts for medical research at the fifth Only Watch auction.

FEATUREST H E W A T C H M A G A Z I N E R E D E F I N E D


084076070

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088112

+ +

BEHIND THE SCENESRalph Lauren draws on special jewelry techniques to dress its Stirrup watch in diamonds.

+

+

WHAT WOMEN WANTVacheron Constantin's collection emphasizes mechanical watches designed just for women.

YEAR OF THE ZODIACDe Bethune honors Imperial China with a spectacular Zodiac-themed, limited edition 12-watch set.

+ +

CRACKING THE CODEBremont honors Britain's World War II cryptanalysts and their amazing code-cracking machines.

+

THEN AND NOWParmigiani's reinterpretation of an antique pocket watch gives rise to the new Ovale Collection.

COAST TO COASTPanerai's US boutiques span the continent and include a newly opened Aspen location.

The timely arrival of new watches in the year's coolest color is sure to make for happy holidays.

Unique watches raise record amounts for medical

Aspen location.

+

+

CO_WJ26_014

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Entirely invented and manufactured in- house

Centigraphe Souverain - Ref. CTChronograph measuring 100ths of a second18K solid Gold movementPlatinum or red Gold case

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DEPARTMENTST H E W A T C H M A G A Z I N E R E D E F I N E D


IN FOCUSUrwerk combines a mechanical heart with an electronic brain to create the new EMC watch.

+

|

+

||

+

ON THE COVERVacheron Constantin's Patrimony Contemporaine Lady in rose gold with diamonds

+

+

5 MINUTES WITHHigh-wire artist Nik Wallenda, page 66, and Dutch watchmakers Bart and Tim Grönefeld.

GRAND GALAJaeger-LeCoultre celebrates its 180th year with a gala event in Venice.

+

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HOW TO FIT 180 YEARS OF RESEARCH INTO 10 CM2.

Over 22,000 hours went into developing the Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2, the perfect embodiment of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expertise. This 569-part chronograph is one of the most complex ever produced. Made from an exclusive titanium and vanadium alloy (TiVan 15), it is a concentrated blend of research and technical inventions in the �eld of Fine Watchmaking. Since 1833, the Inventors of the Vallée de Joux have been constantly pushing the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking.MASTER COMPRESSOR EXTREME LAB 2. Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 780. YOU DESERVE A REAL WATCH.

WatchJournal_JLC11896_MCEL2.indd 1 10/17/13 10:50 AMWJ26_Jaeger_1018_mk.indd 1 10/18/13 10:08 AM

+PUBLISHER’S LETTER

T H E W A T C H M A G A Z I N E R E D E F I N E D12:2013 WATCHJOURNAL.COM

018 12:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O M

In this issue, WJ international editor Keith Strandberg has written a fascinating piece about a secret World War II mission that inspired the principals at Bremont to develop the Codebreaker, a chronograph made using artifacts from a secret gov-ernment deciphering project. The backstory is particularly fascinating because the war over words—history-altering secret messages—led to the development of the first electronic computer.

Nazi Germany engaged a typewriter-sized electro-mechanical machine, known as the Enigma, to encode its secret messages. Unknown to Germany, Polish military intelligence had successfully broken the Enigma codes prior to the war. But with continu-ous upgrades in the Enigma machines, decryption became increasingly complicated and required more resources than Poland could supply. Poland delivered its code-breaking information to British military intelligence and, in so doing, made a great contribution to the future decryption of Germany’s coded wartime messages.

Breaking codes required hundreds of mathematicians and engineers testing hundreds of thousands of combinations and calculations to find the key to the ever-changing codes the German military produced daily with the Enigma machine. This called for even more brainpower. It led the British engineers to develop a complex electro-mechanical code-breaking machine, dubbed the Bombe, which reduced decoding time from more than a week to mere hours. As the war progressed, the directors of the secret mission projected that 70 Bombes would be needed, although, by 1944, they had created more than double that number.

But Germany raised the stakes with the newly created cipher called the Lorenz SZ. Its automated codes were considered unbreakable and were therefore used exclusively by Germany’s High Command. Again, this challenged Britain’s scientists to develop an entirely new machine. Because of its size and capabilities, the engineers named this new machine the Colossus. It was, in fact, a partially programmable elec-tronic machine, later recognized as the world’s first computer.

Because of the secrecy shrouding the mission, few outside of those directly involved with the project knew about the Colossus. Following V-E Day, Churchill ordered the Colossus computers destroyed and all related documents incinerated. As a result, the Colossus had little influence on computer architecture and science.

Today, we have much more computing power in our cell phones than the Bombe or the Colossus ever had, but how amazing these machines were for their time! And what great work they accomplished! This is just a bit of the amazing backstory that leads to Bremont’s Codebreaker. Learn more in the excellent article on page 100.

Enjoy!

—Glen B. Bowen p u b l i s h e r

WORDSWAR OF

LEADS TO THE WORLD’S FIRST COMPUTER

Britain’s Bombe machine reduced decoding time from more than a week to mere hours.

CO_WJ26_018

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Advertiser: Panerai

Ad: Radiomir 1940 3 Dyas PAM 514

Publication: Watch Journal

Issue: November 19, 2013

Bleed: 9.75" x 12.25"

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Giga Job#: 66706

COLOR TAG INFO

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+LETTER FROM SWITZERLAND

T H E W A T C H M A G A Z I N E R E D E F I N E D12:2013 WATCHJOURNAL.COM


TIMEKEEPING AND THE NEXT GENERATIONIn watches, it sometimes seems that everything old is new again. Today’s cutting-edge mechanisms are often inspired by watches of the past, perhaps even the distant past. Contemplating the history of watches, I realized I am quite concerned about the future of watches.

My two oldest sons, Kalen and Evan, are now 30 and 28 respectively, and they wear watches because their old man would have their hide if they didn’t. Their friends, however, don’t wear watches. They depend on their smartphones for the time (and just about everything else). I expect there will come a time in their professional lives when the smartphone isn’t always appropriate—it’s di�cult to surreptitiously pull out your phone during a meeting to check the time. With a watch on your wrist, you can be more subtle. So, where will their genera-tion turn for their timepieces?

At this summer’s Couture Time show, I had a number of conversations with watch industry movers and shakers, and I asked what they thought the watch of the future would look like. Almost everyone anticipates that high-end mechanical watches will look much the same, and I certainly agree. The strength of the auction and vintage markets demonstrates that people will continue to value the traditional craftsmanship and classic designs that are popular today.

However, in the quartz and entry-level categories, we’re likely to see bigger changes. A key goal will be packing the utility and convenience of a smartphone into a package that goes on the wrist. The emerging smartwatch category is already answering this challenge with a mushrooming number of wearable computing devices of varying capabilities, many of which feature analog time displays. Big names like Sony, Nissan and Dell are jumping into this arena along with startups like Pebble, an early frontrunner, and Kreyos, which raised more than $1 million through crowdfunding this summer.

Ultimately, whoever leads in this category will give the smartphone generation a wrist-based time display that they can love. From there, it’s a short leap to finer timepieces and their mesmerizing mechanical “apps.”

—Keith W. Strandberg i n t e r n a t i o n a l e d i t o r

WATCH

Ph

oto

© H

ye

tis

20

13

FUTURE

The Hyetis Crossbow, a Swiss smartwatch combining automatic

mechanical timekeeping with smartphone compatibility, electronic

environmental and biometric sensors and a high-resolution camera

CO_WJ26_020

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In 1774, after La Chaux-de-Fonds, Pierre Jaquet Droz opened his second factory in London, in order to meet growing international demand.

Grande Seconde SW Steel-Ceramic, ref. J029030440

Dial black shiny varnished. Stainless steel case. Crown with rubber

cast. Self-winding mechanical movement with ruthenium treatment.

Power reserve 68 hours. Diameter 45 mm.

W W W.JAQUET- DROZ .COM

CO_WJ26_001

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C H I E F C R E A T I V E O F F I C E R Yolanda Yoh Bucher C H I E F F I N A N C I A L O F F I C E R Christopher Fabian C H I E F O P E R A T I V E O F F I C E R Peter Fain C H I E F S T R A T E G Y O F F I C E R Erica Holburn

C O R P O R A T E M A N A G I N G E D I T O R Pamela Lerner Jaccarino E X E C U T I V E V I C E P R E S I D E N T O F S A L E S Timothy Kelliher V I C E P R E S I D E N T O F S A L E S A N D G R O U P P U B L I S H E R Michael J. Ruskin V I C E P R E S I D E N T B U S I N E S S D E V E L O P M E N T , S T R A T E G I C P A R T N E R S H I P S Jacqueline Bicknell E X E C U T I V E V I C E P R E S I D E N T , C O M M U N I C AT I O N S Jessica Kleiman C O M M U N I C AT I O N S M A N A G E R Jennifer Dixon C O M M U N I C AT I O N S A S S I S TA N T Gennifer Delman E X E C U T I V E V I C E P R E S I D E N T O F I N F O R M A T I O N T E C H N O L O G Y Juan Lopez V I C E P R E S I D E N T O F W E B T E C H N O L O G Y Christopher Coleman D I R E C T O R O F S O F T W A R E E N G I N E E R I N G Emmanuel Crouvisier D I R E C T O R O F M A N U F A C T U R I N G A N D D I S T R I B U T I O N Fern E. Meshulam E X E C U T I V E D I R E C T O R O F A U D I E N C E D E V E LO P M E N T Katharine Tucker D I R E C T O R O F A U D I E N C E D E V E LO P M E N T Jeffrey Rovner D I R E C T O R O F F I N A N C E A N D A C C O U N T I N G Andrea Efland C O N T R O L L E R Barbara Mabie A S S I S TA N T C O N T R O L L E R Kristen Delisio A C C O U N T I N G M A N A G E R S Raquel Howell, David Wulk A C C O U N T S P A Y A B L E M A N A G E R S Shirley Cruz, Shannon Kavanagh, Sherry Chelchowski C O L L E C T I O N S M A N A G E R Karen �eierl C O L L E C T I O N S S P E C I A L I S T David Nunez A C C O U N T S R E C E I V A B L E Emel Emin, Isaura Figueroa, Kristy Kilian S T A F F A C C O U N T A N T Kristen Hitchcock D I R E C T O R O F H U M A N R E S O U R C E S Lisa Silver Faber H U M A N R E S O U R C E S S P E C I A L I S T Ashley Akins R E C R U I T E R Linda Siegel B U S I N E S S D E V E L O P M E N T D I R E C T O R Monica Del Borrello D E V E L O P E R S Justin McCauliffe, Chris Santos I T S E R V I C E D E S K M A N A G E R Mindy Marks S E N I O R S Y S T E M S A N A L Y S T Chad Simpson S E N I O R F I E L D E N G I N E E R Christopher Kerry, Joshua Hash H E L P D E S K A N A L Y S T Rick Jacobs A S S I S T A N T T O T H E C E O Stephanie Brady A S S I S T A N T T O T H E C O O / C F O Kathy Lewis P R I N T P U R C H A S I N G M A N A G E R Selene Ceballo D I S T R I B U T I O N S E R V I C E S M A N A G E R Alexander R. Cruz O P E R A T I O N S Tamas Szakal A D M I N I S T R A T I O N Charlotte Auth, Casimira Betancourt, Adrian Custodio, Jessica Gonzalez, Fran Myers, Leticia Pablos, Enrique Ruiz, Maritza Severino P R I N T C E N T E R D I R E C T O R Bart Blackwell D I G I T A L P R I N T C E N T E R M A N A G E R Christopher Ferris P R I N T / B I N D E R F I N I S H E R John Kiggins N E W S S T A N D C O N S U L T A N T Ron Sklon

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D E S I G N D I R E C T O R Dean Sebring A R T D I R E C T O R S Valerie Sebring, Michael Shavalier, Pam Shavalier S E N I O R D E S I G N E R Alvaro Diaz-Rubio EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Marie A. Picon I N T E R N A T I O N A L E D I T O R Keith W. Strandberg C O P Y C H I E F Leann Harms P H O T O R E T O U C H E R S Chris Ablan, Michael Dobias, Michael Warnock P R E P R E S S S P E C I A L I S T Eric Espada A S S O C I A T E P R E P R E S S S P E C I A L I S T Melissa Kelly M A R K E T I N G M A N A G E R Hayley Merrill T R A F F I C M A N A G E R Melissa C. Quiñones T R A F F I C C O O R D I N A T O R Jody M. Boyle E D I T O R I A L C O O R D I N A T O R Kay Hodgdon J U N I O R P H O T O E D I T O R Kelly Ozog C O N T R I B U T O R S David Bowen, Laurie Kahle, Hayley Merrill

Adam I. Sandow CHAIRMAN AND CEO

Glen B. Bowen PUBLISHER AND EDITOR IN CHIEF

Watch Journal® [ISSN 2325-4130] is published bimonthly. Watch Journal® is a registered trademark of InSync Media Group, a subsidiary of SANDOW. Copyright 2013, InSync Media Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction or transmission in whole or in part in any form or by any means without written permission is prohibited. Opinions expressed in Watch Journal® are not necessarily those of the publisher. Watch Journal® , InSync Media Group, SANDOW, its affiliates, employees, contributors, writers, editors and publisher accept no responsibility for inaccuracies, errors or omissions in the information and/or advertisements contained herein. The publisher assumes no responsibility for the claims made by advertisers or the merits of products or services advertised or promoted in Watch Journal® . The publisher makes no representations or warranties of any kind, expressed or implied, as to the information, services, contents, trademarks, patents, materials or products included in this magazine. Advertisers and their agencies assume all liability for advertising content. All images reproduced in Watch Journal® have been accepted by the publisher on the condition that such images are reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the photographer and/or other creator and the subject. As such, the publisher is not responsible for any infringement of the copyright or otherwise arising from any publication in Watch Journal® . Printed in the USA. ADDRESS SUBSCRIPTION REQUESTS AND CORRESPONDENCE TO: Watch Journal, PO Box 16329 North Hollywood, CA 91615. Email: [email protected] or telephone toll-free 888-295-9007 (continental US only, all others 818-487-2012).

W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O M

[ J O U R N A L ] ®

THE WATCH MAGAZINE REDEFINED

S A N D O W . C O M

Masthead_WJ26.indd 22 10/18/13 11:47 AM

The world’s thinnest automatic tourbillon watchWhite gold, 10.4 mm thickPiaget Manufacture movement 1270PMechanical self-winding tourbillon movement

PIAGET EMPERADORCOUSSIN

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SHOP ONLINE AT WWW.PIAGET.COM

WJ23_piaget_0401_ee.indd 1 4/1/13 11:48 AM

SCORING BIGWatch brand Richard Mille has become the first o�cial timing partner of the Manchester City Football Club, which took the FA Cup in 2011 and last year won the Premier League title. Commenting on the announce-ment, John Macbeath, Interim CEO of Manchester City, says, “We are extremely proud to form this relationship with Richard Mille, which shares our will to innovate and to push the boundaries in achiev-ing our collective aims. This

new partnership provides many exciting opportunities for collaboration through VIP events and match-day box experiences.” Richard Mille has o�ered to donate a unique timepiece to be auctioned in support of the club’s charitable association, City in the Community. The charity works to improve the lives of Manchester children through sport and education. 310.205.5555, richardmille.com

IN-SOURCING STRATEGYCalifornia-based Devon Works has announced plans to open a new production facility, dubbed Devon Tech Labs, in Pasadena, Calif., in order to bring production of its Tread 1 watch in house, improve quality control and

meet demand for the new Tread 2, which debuted at Baselworld 2013 and gener-ated hundreds of orders. On track to open before the end of the year, the facility will be run by new hire John Thomas, production manager, who is busy assembling a team of production engineers and watch assemblers. “Pasadena is an ideal location for our newly formed Devon Tech

Labs,” says company founder Scott Devon. “We carefully considered a variety of Southern California locations and settled on Pasadena because it’s a hotbed of innovation and creativity. Our neigh-bors include world-renowned schools such as CalTech and the Art Center College of Design, as well as NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory.”

888.901.0081, devontimepieces.com

+INDUSTRY WATCH

WATCH REPORT | NEWS AND HAPPENINGS FROM THE WORLD OF WATCHES

SCORING BIG new partnership provides

From left—Captain Vincent Kompany with the RM 032 dive chronograph (at left in red gold, $185,000), goalkeeper Joe Hart with the RM

029 Automatic, midfielders Gareth Barry, Javi Garci and Yaya Toure, respectively wearing the RM 028 dive watch, the RM 016 Automatic

Extra Flat and the RM 011

devontimepieces.comDevon Works Lab, Pasadena, Calif., and the Devon Tread 2 Shining, $9,950


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Didn’t age in 70 years:

The Little Prince

Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual

Calendar Edition “Le Petit Prince”. Ref.

5028: Some things remind us of the bound-

less nature of the human imagination. Apart

from “The Little Prince”, a global literary suc-

cess that celebrates its 70th anniversary this

year, one of those things is undoubtedly this

watch. Its perpetual calendar, operated via

the crown, is a perfect example of a watch-

maker’s dream come true. With a depiction

of the little prince himself on the moon phase

display, it also reminds us of the man after

whom the 270 watches in this strictly limited

special edition are named. Turning imagi-

nation into reality and leaving us just as

speechless. IWC. ENGINEERED FOR MEN.

Limited edition of 270 watches, Mechanical movement,

Pellaton automatic winding, 7-day power reserve when

fully wound, Power reserve display, Perpetual calendar

and perpetual moon phase, Small hacking seconds,

See-through sapphire-glass back, Water-resistant 6 bar,

Case height 16 mm, Diameter 46 mm, 18 ct red gold

FOR THE PRINCE OF WORDS: A WATCH THAT

LEAVES YOU SPEECHLESS.

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN BOUTIQUES: NEW YORK | BAL HARBOUR | BEVERLY HILLS | SOUTH COAST PLAZA | LAS VEGASIWC.COM

For more information please call 1-800-432-9330 or contact [email protected]

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+INDUSTRY WATCH


EASTERN OUTPOSTFollowing the opening in early 2013 of its award-winning first boutique in London, British watch company Bremont inaugurated its first overseas boutique in Hong Kong in September. The store makes use of innovative technol-ogy to tell the stories behind each watch that Bremont creates. Bremont co-founder Giles English comments, “It is a big step for us to launch our own boutique in Hong Kong, but we wanted to build on our considerable success with London and the exciting growth that Bremont has seen. When you have your own store, you can really communi-cate your own brand message and DNA to your consumer. It also has a very positive effect on your wholesale markets as the brand becomes more visible.” The new boutique is found at Lyndhurst Terrace in central Hong Kong. 800.BREMONT, bremont.com

A CRAZY DECADEFranck Muller celebrates the 10th anniversary of its iconic Crazy Hours watch this year with the release of limited edition Crazy Hours watches in two sizes and in two gold options. The unconventional watch with the jumbled, over-

sized hour markers first appeared in 2003. Its jumping hours function moves the hours hand to the correct numeral every hour, while the minutes hands moves around the dial as usual. The anniversary models feature the self-winding Caliber FM 2800 HF, a Cintrée Curvex case in rose gold or white gold, mirror-finished numerals and a glittering numeral 10 set with diamonds. Prices range from $33,100 to $38,900. 212.463.8898, franckmullerusa.com

BACK TO SCHOOL When the 2014 class of watch-making students passed through the doors of the North American Institute of Swiss Watchmaking (NAIOSW) in September for their first day of classes, Vacheron Constantin was there to welcome the stu-dents and celebrate the new school year with a special recep-tion. Vacheron Constantin is the Swiss watchmaking brand to partner with the school. It is providing full scholarships for the incoming class of six in addition to educational mate-rials, mentoring and brand perspectives on watchmaking careers. The student that gradu-ates at the top of the class is invited to Geneva for a three-week internship at the Vacheron Constantin manufacture. “This partnership is faithful to our values of perpetuating the tradi-tion of high watchmaking and transmitting the know-how of our watchmakers,” says Hugues de Pins, president of Vacheron Constantin North America. 855.729.1755, vacheron-constantin.com

CRAZY TIMES: Anniversary edition Crazy Hours watches from Franck Muller

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Incoming students at the North American Institute of Swiss WatchmakingBremont boutique, Lyndhurst

Terrace, Hong Kong

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Elegant Pierre ArpelsWatch, pink gold,

white lacquered dial.

Inspired by an iconic model created in 1949 by Pierre Arpels,

this masculine timepiece celebrates the innovative and aesthetic spirit of its creator.

Haute Joaillerie, place Vendôme since 1906

877-VAN-CLEEFvancleefarpels.com

CLIENT: VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

JOB NO.: 10141729

SPACE UNIT: 4CB (B: 9.75” W x 12.25” H; T: 9.25” W x 11.75” H; L: 8.25” W x 10.75” H)

PUBLICATIONS: WATCH JOURNAL - NOV/DEC 2013

APPROVED DATE TRAFFIC/PROOF READER PRODUCTION SUPERVISOR DIRECTOR PRINT SERVICES ART DIRECTOR COPYWRITER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE ACCOUNT SUPERVISOR MANAGEMENT SUPERVISOR CREATIVE DIRECTOR CLIENT

Date Created: 10/01/13 Artist: christian

Proof: 01 Page: 01

Date Revised: Artist:

ART FILE NAME MECH SCALE EFFECTIVE RESOLUTION VCA_Pierre_Arpels_SP_DP_4x3.tif 37.1% 808 dpi VCA_R.ai 67.1% illustrator ai

PRINTED AT 100%

1 dag hammarskjold plazanew york, ny 10017-2205212.832.3800www.avrettfreeginsberg.com

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+INDUSTRY WATCH



METRO MOMENTSBased on a philosophy of pas-sion and dynamism, Swiss watch brand JeanRichard has teamed up with the Paris rugby club Racing Metro 92 to become the club’s o�cial watch. Founded in 1882, the club from Hauts-de-Seine was one of the pioneers of rugby in France and has been a major player in French rugby ever since. The five-time national cham-pion competes in the Top 14 of the French National Rugby League. “A rich past, a promis-ing future, a beautiful philoso-phy of life—JeanRichard and Racing Metro 92 have much in common,” says Bruno Grande, COO of the Swiss firm. “Our brand and this legendary club share the taste for challenge, team spirit and the desire to live life to the fullest, making the most of every moment.” 877.846.3447, jeanrichard.com

A GOOD MATCHBulova has become the o�cial timekeeper and global partner of the legendary Manchester United soccer team. Under the three-year agreement, Bulova branding will be displayed on the scoreboards at Old Tra�ord stadium and Bulova timepieces will be on show around the stadium, including in the players’ dressing room, as well as at the club’s train-

ing complex and its o�ces in Manchester, London and Hong Kong. Bulova also has plans to produce co-branded timepieces featuring the iconic Manchester United crest. The club’s group manag-ing director, Richard Arnold, says, “Founded within years of each other, Bulova and Manchester United have both grown to become glob-al leaders and the first to

achieve many new innovations and milestones. We are con-fident that the craftsmanship and accessibility of Bulova’s products, combined with the club’s ever-growing global fan base will make this a suc-cessful partnership.” 800.A.BULOVA, bulova.ch

NEW ATTITUDEAudemars Piguet has launched a new global advertising cam-paign featuring supermodel Anouck Lepère and aimed at women. The campaign intro-duces the selling line “There are exceptions to every rule,” which was conceived as a com-panion to last year’s appeal to men: “To break the rules,

French rugby’s

Racing Metro 92

Manchester United taking the fieldAudemars Piguet Royal Oak in steel with

diamonds, $24,800

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tty

Im

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T H E

S E C O N D

W O R L D

W A R .

1 9 3 9 - 1 9 4 7.

Spring, 1943. And for the Allies, there’s none of the optimism associated with the season.

The conflict in the North Atlantic has tipped decisively in favour of Germany. Allied convoys are easy prey for the deadly U-boats, hunting in their ‘wolf-packs’.

Britain is on the brink of starvation. The situation looks bleak. In Whitehall, even Churchill privately doubts whether his famous powers of oratory will be enough to lift the nation this time.

Plans for an Allied invasion of Europe in 1944 have been postponed for a year: the US will not send troops and equipment to Britain with the Atlantic under German control.

This delay will give Hitler time to strengthen coastal fortifications in Normandy. German factories have an extra twelve months to build Panzers. And huge tank divisions will now form an iron line of defence along the Rhine, barring the way into Germany.

The war looks set to continue until at least 1947, and with no guarantee of an Allied victory.

It didn’t happen like that, of course. But it so nearly could have, had it not been for the efforts of a determined band of men and women in a ramshackle country house in Buckinghamshire: Bletchley Park.

Some, like Alan Turing, were mathematicians. Others were musicians. Some were crossword experts. Yet working in eight-hour shifts in modest wooden huts, they managed to crack the German Enigma code, widely believed to be unbreakable.

An Enigma machine could encrypt letters in more than 159 million million million different ways. (Your odds of winning the lottery look positively generous by comparison.)

But with the code cracked, the Allies were able to follow the movements of the U-boats and route the convoys around them. And, in May 1943, Admiral Donitz conceded defeat in the Battle of the Atlantic, leaving the way clear for the D-Day landings.

It was only one of many instances where intelligence gleaned at Bletchley Park helped influence the outcome of key events in the war.

The Bremont Codebreaker commemorates the work of Alan Turing, Gordon Welchman, Tommy Flowers and the 9,000 other men and women who served there.

Proceeds from the sale of each watch will go to the Bletchley Park Trust, which is helping preserve the house and its famous huts for the nation.

Every watch will feature actual material from Bletchley Park.

The movement has an oscillating weight that incorporates original parts from a German Enigma rotor.

The crown is inlaid with pinewood from the floorboards of Hut 6, the nerve centre of Bletchley Park.

And while the design is inspired by a classic 1940s officers watch, everything else is very definitely 2013.

The Codebreaker has a unique chronograph layout with a GMT flyback. (The first we’ve ever built in this configuration.)

It’s available in two very limited editions: 240 in stainless steel and 60 in rose gold. We expect demand to be high.

The men and women of Bletchley Park maintained absolute secrecy at all times, so word never got around.

With the Codebreaker, this is unlikely to be the case.

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+INDUSTRY WATCH



you must first master them.” Audemars Piguet has a long history of producing excep-tional creations designed to mirror women’s attitudes, and the new campaign is intended to reflect the bold spirit of independence that defines the brand’s female clients. Audemars Piguet’s chief marketing o�cer, Tim Sayler, comments, “Just like our watches, the Audemars Piguet woman is exceptional in every sense. We think this iconic image also represents an exception in the world of women’s watch advertising.” 888.214.6858, audemarspiguet.com

KICKSTARTING A COMEBACKIkepod founder Oliver Ike launched a 60-day Kickstarter campaign on August 27 to fund the revival of the Swiss watchmaking brand A. Manzoni & Fils of Lugano, Switzerland, and its first new wristwatch, the Canopus Weekplanner. Combining contemporary industrial design with traditional Swiss watchmaking, the calendar watch features a movement by Dubois Dépraz and calen-dar functions, including the weeks of the year indicated by a central sweep hand. Early crowdfunding supporters have

the option to purchase special editions of the watch at a frac-tion of the planned retail price. If the campaign fails to reach its $500,000 goal, those early adopters will own some rare watches, indeed. amanzoni.com, kickstarter.com

PRIME LOCATIONSExpanding its worldwide retail distribution, Neuchâtel-based Hautlence watch com-pany recently announced two new retail partners. Hautlence watches are now available at Kirchhofer in Interlaken, Switzerland, and at Kronometry 1999 in Paris, Cannes, Monaco and London. The opening of these new partnerships follows the brand’s appearance in Dubai’s Seddiqi boutique and at Westime in Los Angeles and Beverly Hills. Known for its original concepts in displaying time, Hautlence celebrates its 10th anniversary in 2014. 41.32.924.0062, hautlence.com

FAIR TRADEThis year’s Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair, held in early September, showcased more than 750 exhibitors from 18 countries, including first-time participants Germany, Russia, Singapore and Turkey. The World Brand Piazza section of the show featured high watchmaking brands includ-ing Breguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Franck Muller, Piaget, Ulysse Nardin and Zenith. However, organized by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), the Hong Kong Watch Manufacturers Association Ltd. and the

Kronometry 1999, New Bond Street, London, and (above) Georges-Henri Meylan of

Hautlence parent company MELB Holdings with Hautlence’s Guillaume Tetu

A. Manzoni & Fils’ Canopus Weekplanner,

Oliver Ike (below, left) and Canopus

designer Ilkka Suppanen

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Federation of Hong Kong Watch Trades and Industries Ltd., the event is designed to promote Hong Kong’s watchmaking. In the first seven months of this year, the region exported $5.4 billion of timepieces, parts and components, up 2.6 percent over last year. Its top export markets are Switzerland, the US and the Chinese mainland. hktdc.com

CENTURY MARKSFor watch brand TW Steel, 2013 is shaping up to be a year of numerous century-mark achievements. The brand celebrated reaching 100 mar-kets of distribution this year and marked the milestone by launching its first $100,000 watch, the one-of-a-kind CEO Tech World Centennial, which promptly won the Couture

Time People’s Choice Award for 2013. Most recently, the brand has welcomed its 100,000th Twitter follower. And the year isn’t over yet. 415.732.7979, twsteel.us.com

CLASS CONSCIOUSNESSResponding to a worldwide increase in demand for its timepieces, German watch manufacture Glashütte Original has doubled the number of stu-dents admitted as apprentices in watchmaking and toolmak-ing at its Alfred Helwig School of Watchmaking. This year’s entering class—the 13th since the school opened its doors in

2001—is made up of 28 students from all over Germany: 24 in the watchmaking program and 4 in the toolmaking program. Upon completion of the program, watchmaking apprentices earn the German watchmaking cer-tificate as well as the WOSTEP diploma, an achievement made possible by the school’s partnership with Switzerland’s Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program. The best students are also guaranteed jobs in the Glashütte Original factory or another Swatch Group company. 866.203.8699, glashuette-original.com

CORRECTIONThe price of the Bremont Codebreaker watch in steel, fea-tured on page 40 of our October issue, is $18,500, not $33,995, as reported. The latter is the price of the rose gold variant. Read more about both watches on page 100 of this issue.

OPENING DAY: Models showcase exhibitors’ watches at the Watch & Clock Fair opening

Apprentices at the Alfred Helwig School of Watchmaking

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TW Steel’s $100,000 CEO

Tech World Centennial

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+IN FOCUS

THE URWERK EMC | USER-CONTROLLED CHRONOMETRY MADE EASY

EMC stands for Electro Mechanical Control, and, as the name suggests, electron-ics come into play in the watch’s integrated performance monitoring system, which measures the accuracy of the watch’s purely mechanical UR-EMC in-house movement on demand. “The idea for EMC goes back almost six years and

is a natural continuation of my work as a watchmaker,” says Baumgartner. “EMC allows you to obtain reliable and accurate data on your timepiece at the touch of a button—information that until now has been the preserve of professional watch-makers. Using this information, you can fine-tune one of the most exciting mechanisms ever invented—the mechanical watch—all by yourself.”

Why is this advantageous? Well, while it’s one thing to regulate a watch in the con-

trolled environment of the workshop, maintaining that accuracy in the real world is an entirely di�erent problem. Changes in position and tem-perature have an e�ect on timing regularity as do vibra-tions and shocks. So, Urwerk’s goal was to create a mechani-cal watch that could be easily monitored and corrected as often as the user likes.

INSIDE AND OUTThe world’s first look at the completed EMC watch came in late August. The titanium and steel case is 43 mm wide and 51 mm long with a winding crown at 6 and separate displays for hours/minutes, seconds, power reserve (80 hours) and the pre-cision indicator (±20 seconds/day). Folded close against the right side of the case is a

power-generating hand crank that charges a super capacitor and supplies juice to the EMC’s electronics. On the back of the case, a fine-tuning screw adjusts the rate up or down.

Inside the case, Caliber UR-EMC shares space with a small circuit board—the watch’s electronic “brain”—and an opti-cal sensor that “watches” the oscillations of the 4-Hz balance. The mechanical movement features a proprietary balance wheel made of non-magnetic and corrosion-resistant ARCAP alloy. The shape of the balance wheel is designed to minimize loss of amplitude and optimize both aerodynamic e¤ciency and the data captured by the optical sensor.

HOW IT WORKSWhen it’s time for a perfor-mance check, a few turns of the crank handle send power to the electronic systems and the but-ton on the left caseside activates the on-demand chronometry measurement. The sensor moni-tors the vibrations of the balance for about three seconds, and the watch’s rate is compared to a reference rate produced by a 16 million–Hz electronic oscilla-tor. The di�erence in the rates, expressed in seconds per day, is displayed on the precision indicator. If the rate is objec-tionably fast or slow, a small rotation of the fine-adjustment screw returns the movement to perfect chronometry.

All that the precision-minded watch enthusiast needs to get started is $125,000—the purchase price of the Urwerk EMC—and a screwdriver.

urwerk.com

Thanks to the creative minds and uncon-ventional approach of watchmaker Felix Baumgartner and designer Martin Frei of Urwerk, the relationship between watch and wearer has just advanced to the next level. The duo has come up with a simple way for users to easily monitor and precise-ly adjust the timing rate of a watch—when the watch is the new Urwerk EMC, that is.


STABLE TIMING PERFORMANCE IS ENHANCED BY THE USE OF TWO MAINSPRING BARRELS, MOUNTED ONE ABOVE THE OTHER ON A SINGLE SHAFT AND PROVIDING 80 HOURS OF MECHANICAL POWER TO THE MOVEMENT.

The EMC’s caseback

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PRECISION BY THE NUMBERS

Even a microsecond of difference

between the timing rate of the

UR-EMC movement and the

reference oscillator is

expressed as a gain or

loss of a second per day

in the timing rate. That’s

because a variation of

just 0.0000014 of a second

per half vibration in a balance

that oscillates at 28,800 half

vibrations per hour adds up

to 0.96768 seconds over the

course of 24 hours.

THE BRAINThe EMC’s miniature computer

THE GENERATORA hand-cranked power source for the watch’s electronics

THE INDICATORTest results output on a simple +/- scale

THE HEARTAn in-house mechanical movement

+

+

+

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The Urwerk EMC, housed in a titanium and steel case, $125,000

+

THE EYEA tiny optical sensor

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ZEITMEISTER AVIATOR CHRONOGRAPH XL

A milestone in fine German watchmaking: the first officially tested chronometers certified to German DIN standards at the Glashütte Observatory. WEMPE ZEITMEISTER Aviator Chronograph XL, 45mm stainless steel case, luminous dial with date display, automatic movement, $ 3,580. Exclusively at Wempe.

exquisite timepieces & jewelry • established 1878

700 fifth ave. & 55th st. • new york • 212.397.9000 • open sundays 12 to 5

at the best addresses in germany, and in london, paris, madrid, vienna and new york

Another Triumph in

German Engineering!

T:18.50”

T:11.75”

B:19.00”

B:12.25”

Wat

ch J

ourn

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2013

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FRANCK MULLER MANUFACTURED

Twin Barrel7 Day Power Reserve

©2013 - The Franck M

uller Group, A

ll rights reserved

www.FrAnckMuller.coM212.463.8898

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BUGATTI VEYRON GRAND SPORT VITESSE LEGEND JEAN BUGATTI

ROMAINE JEROME STEAMPUNK BLACK CHRONO SET

BUDNITZ BICYCLES FRED SEGAL EDITION

LONGINES ASTHMOMETER-PULSOMETER CHRONOGRAPH

BELL & ROSS BR 03-51 GMT CARBON

ICON A5 LIGHT SPORT AIRCRAFT

GRAHAM CHRONOFIGHTER 1695

PANERAI LUMINOR MARINA 8 DAYS ORO ROSSO

COLOSIMO DOUBLE WING

FORTIS F-4F PHANTOM II CHRONOGRAPH

INDIAN CHIEF CLASSIC

GIULIANO MAZZUOLI TRANSMISSIONE MECCANICA

CHRISTOPHE CLARET SOPRANO

PATRÓN AÑEJO DAVID YURMAN BOTTLE STOPPER

GIRARD-PERREGAUX CAT’S EYE JEWELLERY TOURBILLON WITH GOLD BRIDGE

MB&F LEGACY MACHINE NO. 2

VINYLIZE FRAMES

RESSENCE TYPE 3

LUXEFINDER WATCH JOURNAL’S CURATED SELECTION OF THE HOTTEST WATCHES AND MOST LUXURIOUS PRODUCTS

4041

424344

454648

5051

52535456

5860

6264

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PRECIOUS

This jet black carbon fiber creation was conceived as a contempo-rary incarnation of Jean Bugatti’s personal Atlantic coupe, known as La Voiture Noire. Its Bugatti horseshoe grille frame and its rear EB logo are formed of platinum and represent the maker’s first use of the precious metal on a car exterior.

PRECISE

An instrument panel in chocolate brown, a selector lever crafted of rosewood and beige leather upholstery imitate the interior of the original Type 57SC Atlantic.

LUXEFINDER

A special Legends edition Bugatti unveiled at the 2013 Frankfurt Motor Show, the Bugatti Grand Sport Vitesse Jean Bugatti is a tribute to Ettore Bugatti’s eldest son, who helped to shape the automaker’s identity and designed the Type 57SC Atlantic sport coupe. Approximately $3 million, bugatti.com

FORCEDRIVING

POWERFUL

Its 8-liter W16 engine generates an enormous 1,200 PS and an unparal-leled 1,500 Nm torque at 3,000–5,000 rpm. It explodes from 0 to 100 km/h in 2.6 seconds.

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LUXEFINDER

FIRERING

Romain Jerome applies diamonds to its popular Steampunk Collection to create the Steampunk Black Chrono Set, one of several variants in different metals that bring bling to the model’s steampunk aesthetic. $31,950, 813.926.3367, romainjerome.com

ARTEFACT

Stabilized rusted steel, sourced from the Titanic and incorporated into the bezel, is the inspiration for the watch’s retro-futuristic design. The balance of the 50-mm case is blackened steel in satin-brushed and sand-blasted finishes.

FUNCTION

The watch’s self-winding Caliber RJ001-CS powers time and chro-nograph functions, which include a 30-minute totalizer.

EXPOSURE

The exposed black gold plate and bridges of the movement

take the place of a dial and feature bead-blasted surfac-es and circular graining. Steel

pistons, a propeller at 6 and anchor-shaped hands are all

inspired by the ocean liner.


OF

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STRENGTH

The split-tube cantilever frame in steel alloy is matched with tita-nium handlebars and seat post

and is engineered to absorb road shocks. Internal cable routing maintains an ultra-clean look.

TECHNOLOGY

A quiet and grease-free Gates carbon belt replaces a traditional chain. The

transmission is available in single-speed, 11-speed or 14-speed options.

COLOR

The custom powder-coated finish combines Optic White with red and blue stripes. Cream-colored tires complement the color scheme.

LUXEFINDER

The special Fred Segal edition two-wheeler by Budnitz Bicycles is a custom version of the maker’s flagship Model No. 1, an urban speedster that combines style with strength and agility.From $3,400, 802.557.0507, budnitzbicycles.comSPOKE

OF GENIUS

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CASED

The stainless steel case is 38.5 mm in diameter, just like the vintage original. Beveled lugs add a distinc-tive touch of style.

CODED

Modeled on a 1963 Longines doctor’s watch, this new chronograph uses color-coded scales—red for heart rate and blue

for respirations—to simplify readout.

LUXEFINDER

HEALTHREPORT Aptly demonstrating that chronograph functions have applications

outside of sports, Longines’ new Asthmometer-Pulsometer Chronograph simplifies the measurement of two vital health indicators: respiration rate and heart rate. $2,475, 800.897.9477, longines.com


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DISPLAYS

An automatic mechanical Soprod TT651 powers the local time display of the main dial and the two-hand remote zone time display of the subdial as well as a date display.

BRIGHTNESS

Large white photolumi-nescent numerals and an

orange GMT hand contrast with the black of the dial

for perfect legibility.

FINISH

A black PVD finish coats the 42-mm square case and the pin buckles of the watch’s two straps: one in heavy-duty canvas and the other in rubber.

LUXEFINDER

VITALSIGNS A vital tool for the modern world traveler, the new BR

03-51 GMT Carbon by Bell & Ross emphasizes legibility and simultaneously displays the time in two zones. $4,900, 888.307.7887, bellross.com


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LOREM IPSUM

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consecte-tur adipiscing elit. Suspendisse neque magna, imperdiet vel consequat nec, tincidunt ac turpis. Quisque gravida pretium sodales. Etiam condimentum hendrerit nunc, eu facilisis libero fau-cibus.

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Suspendisse neque magna, imperdiet vel consequat nec, tincidunt ac turpis. Quisque gravida pretium sodales. Etiam condimentum hendrerit nunc, eu facilisis libero fau-cibus. 000.000.0000, lorem.com

LUXEFINDER

GRANDPIANO


STRENGTH

The high-performance composite airframe is strong, lightweight carbon fiber. The patented folding wings are easy to deploy, and the A5’s design locks the wings in flight and removes all flight loads from the hinge mechanism.

POWER

The 100-hp engine runs on regular gasoline and reaches

a top speed of 120 mph in flight. The cockpit is designed

for sports car–like comfort, and the wrap-around bubble canopy maximizes the view.

HIGHTIMESIcon, an innovator in the light sport aircraft category, has created the A5 Systems Layout model, a portable personal amphibious aircraft aimed at democratizing aviation. From $189,000, iconaircraft.com


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LUXEFINDERLUXEFINDER

STYLE

The aircraft’s skin incorporates systems layout graphics rendered in satin titanium on a matte black surface. Bright orange details add to the A5’s futuristic look.

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LOREM IPSUM

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Suspendisse neque magna,

imperdiet vel consequat nec, tincidunt ac turpis. Quisque gravida pretium sodales.

Etiam condimentum hendrerit nunc, eu faci-lisis libero faucibus.

LOREM IPSUM

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, con-sectetur adipiscing elit. Suspendisse neque magna, imperdiet vel con-sequat nec, tincidunt ac turpis. Quisque gravida pretium sodales. Etiam condimentum hendrerit nunc, eu facilisis libero faucibus.

LUXEFINDER

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Suspendisse neque magna, imperdiet vel consequat nec, tincidunt ac turpis. Quisque gravida pretium sodales. Etiam condimentum hendrerit nunc, eu facilisis libero faucibus. 000.000.0000, lorem.comHIGH

INTENSITY

ACCESS

The maker’s signature chronograph start/stop system—designed to be thumb activated—is positioned at the left side of the case, where it is easily accessed.

TRIBUTE

Like an 18th-century Graham pocket watch, the 42-mm case is sterling silver. The caseback is elaborately engraved with an image of the Greenwich Royal Observatory, where George Graham was the official watchmaker.

LUXEFINDER

Aiming to bring simplicity of design to a timekeeper of great complexity, Graham has produced the Chronofighter 1695 automatic chronograph in a style that pays tribute to its namesake, English watchmaker George Graham. $11,550, 213.622.1716, graham1695.com

SILVERSTREAK


CLARITY

The dial is designed for simplicity and legibility with classic Roman numerals, a chronograph minutes counter at 6 and date dis-play at 3. The functions are driven by Graham’s Caliber G1745 movement.

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HERITAGE

The minimalist 5N red gold case and dark brown dial impart up-to-the-min-

ute style while retaining all the appeal of the watch’s vintage forebears.

FORM

The trademark crown bridge with locking lever makes this watch instantly recognizable as a Luminor and functions to protect the crown and ensure 300-meter water resistance.

Panerai’s own Caliber P.5000 with eight-day power reserve is the mechanism at the heart of the maker’s new Luminor Marina 8 Days Oro Rosso, a 44-mm beauty in the iconic Luminor tradition. $26,500, 877.PANERAI, panerai.comRED

CODE048

12:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O M

MECHANISM

The manual-winding mechanical movement comprises 127 compo-nents, including two spring barrels, and features a Glucydur balance and KIF Parechoc shock protection.

LUXEFINDER

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Marine Chronograph ManufactureSelf-winding movement. Silicium technology.

Enamel Grand Feu dial. 18 ct rose gold case.

Water-resistant to 100 meters. Limited Edition of 150 pieces.

W W W. U LY S S E - N A R D I N . C O MF o r a c a t a l o g , c a l l 5 6 1 - 9 8 8 - 8 6 0 0 o r

u s a 1 3 @ u l y s s e - n a r d i n . c o m

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NUMBERS

A three-digit personal code releases the safe’s locking system, and the doors swing open to reveal two pre-cision winding rotors, each of which holds up to three watches.

TIMEKEEPER

A Wempe Zeitmeister clock, positioned front and center on the face of the safe, conveys a sense of the 300 SL’s instrument panel.

LUXEFINDER

Taking a cue from a legend of the automotive world, the Döttling Colosimo Double Wing is a double-door safe that opens like a Mercedes Benz 300 SL, the famed “Gullwing.” $38,000, doettling.com

WINGMAN

WRAPPER

The red calfskin cover is an homage to the interior

of the famed car.

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MAN

INSIGNIA

The two-part steel case is 42 mm in diameter and holds a dial deco-rated with an image of the aircraft, the iconic Phantom “spook” cari-cature and the slogan “Phantoms Phorever.” MOVEMENT

An automatic 7750 chro-nograph movement drives 12-hour chronograph and day/date functions in addi-tion to hours, minutes and subsidiary running seconds.

LUXEFINDER

JETPROGRAM

Commemorating the retirement of the McDonnell Douglas F-4 Phantom II jet fighter from the German Air Force fleet, Fortis introduces the 175-piece limited edition F-4F Phantom II automatic chronograph, based on its popular Flieger Automatic Chronograph. $3,775–$4,200, 845.425.9882, fortis-watches.com

INTEGRATION

The padded black leather strap is fitted to the curva-ture of the case and features contrast stitching.

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LINES

Valanced fenders, standard since 1940, enhance the flowing lines of every Indian motorcycle and provide

protection from road spray and gravel.

LUXEFINDER


GLORYOLD

HERITAGE

The iconic War Bonnet headlamp, introduced in 1947, the script logo from 1910 and the clas-sic Indian Motorcycle Red paint, standard since 1912, mark this ride as a descendant of the greats.

An American icon returns with the introduction of the new Indian Chief Classic motorcycle, a sculpted cruiser reflecting the heritage of a historic brand. From $18,999, indianmotorcycle.com

MECHANICS

The styling of the Thunder Stroke 111 engine pays tribute to Indian motorcycle engines of the past and delivers 119 lb-ft of torque. An optional Stage 1 Slip-On exhaust unleashes additional power.

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TRANSMISSION

The standout 43-mm case repli-cates a transmission gear wheel in brushed natural and gunmetal

finished steel. It holds an auto-matic mechanical ETA 2824/2.

CLUTCH

The watch’s complex, three-level dial is composed of 21 separate elements in a design inspired by the disc of an automotive clutch.

SHAFT

The style of the oversized crown is adapted from the form of a spline shaft, and the hands are inspired by a mechanic’s compass.

LUXEFINDER

Expressing a belief in the beauty of mechanics, Italian designer Giuliano Mazzuoli has created the Transmissione Meccanica wrist-watch, pressing the forms of automotive parts—created purely for function—into aesthetic service as the case, dial and crown of his watch. $4,900–$5,100, 305.812.3344, giulianomazzuoli.comGEAR

FACTOR053


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LIMITED

The 46.4-mm white gold case features a titanium case band, which helps to amplify the sound of the chimes. Production of this watch is limited to eight examples.

LUXEFINDER

A specialist in tourbillons, striking mechanisms and sapphire components from its beginnings, Christophe Claret brings these elements together in the Soprano tourbillon minute repeater, a tribute to its roots. CHF 476,000, 954.610.2234, christopheclaret.com

GONGSHOW

CHARMING

The dial-free design showcases the move-

ment’s stepped, Charles X–style bridges, the

action of the repeater hammers and the trans-

parent spring barrel, which reveals the state

of wind at a glance.

CHIMING

The watch’s musically accurate four-note minute repeater sounds Westminster chimes, using four cathedral gongs, each circling the movement twice to produce a full, rich tone. A silent inertia governor eliminates noise that could interfere with the enjoyment of the repeater.

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ARTISTRY

The two-toned object is crafted in die-cast metal with contrasting gunmetal and 24-karat gold finishes.

INSPIRATION

The stopper’s elaborate carving is inspired by decorations seen on

18th-century Samurai swords.

LUXEFINDER

BLADERUNNERIn its latest designer collaboration, Patrón

Añejo introduces a limited edition bottle stopper, designed by David Yurman time-piece design director Evan Yurman. The hilt-shaped stopper arrives just in time for the holiday season. $55, patronspirits.com


ORIGIN

Patrón Añejo is a delicate blend of barrel-aged tequi-las, made exclusively from Weber Blue agave plants. Each bottle is handcrafted of recycled glass.

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212.463.8898www.CVSTOS.COM

skeletonized automatic movement

WJ21_cvstos_1218_ee.indd 1 12/18/12 1:35 PM

LUXEFINDERLUXEFINDER

FINISHING

A white alligator strap with snow-set white gold folding clasp secures the watch and provides the finishing touch.

TEXTURE

The natural mother-of-pearl dial is hand-

engraved and polished to create an intriguing

textured look. It is enclosed in a white gold

case encrusted with more than 1,000 brilliant-cut and

snow-set diamonds.

EYESTYLE058


The latest edition to a collection launched in 2004, the Girard-Perregaux Cat’s Eye Jewellery Tourbillon with Gold Bridge provides a superlative example of a union between fine jewelry and fine watchmaking. $292,500, 877.846.3447, girard-perregaux.com

POWER

The finely finished, manual-winding GP09700 manufacture tourbillon movement features small seconds on the tourbillon cage and delivers 70 hours of autonomy when fully wound.

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COLLECTION DIMIERRECITAL 9 MISS ALEXANDRA

BOVET FLEURIER S W I T Z E R L A N D

FOUNDING MEMBER OF THE QUALITY FLEURIER CERTIFICATION AND PARTNER OF THE FONDATION DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE

WWW.BOVET.COM

B O R N B Y P A S S I O N

OPENING AUTUMN 2013BOVET BOUTIQUE

50 CENTRAL PARK SOUTH - NEW YORK, NY 10019

FOR ANY ENQUIRIES, PLEASE CALL BOVET LLC AT +1 888 909 1822

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DEVELOPMENT

The movement was developed specifically for this watch by

Jean-François Mojon and Kari Voutilainen. Its finishing respects

historical styles and includes handcrafted polished internal bevel

angles and hand engraving.

HOMAGE

Prominent double balance wheels pay homage to dual regulator mechanisms of the late 18th century. Their average rate is transmitted to a single gear train via a differential, seen at the bottom of the dial side.

LUXEFINDER

The second in MB&F Legacy series of horological creations paying tribute to the inventions of history’s greatest watchmakers, Legacy Machine No. 2 honors Abraham-Louis Breguet, Ferdinand Berthoud and Antide Janvier, all of whom produced timepieces with dual balances. CHF 168,000, 888.884.0838, mbandf.comACT

BALANCING

DESIGN

The striking blue surface on the dial side of this 950 platinum watch is actually

the finely finished upper plate of the movement. The

watch is also produced in white gold and rose gold

versions for a total edition of 18 pieces.

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Watch Journal is now available on your iPhone and iPad!

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PROTECTED

The frames are made by hand in the company’s Budapest workshop. Available acces-sories include a zippered eyeglass case made from a folded 7-inch record.

LUXEFINDER

Fusing style, music and an environmental commitment, Hungarian eyewear innovator Vinylize handcrafts unique optical-quality frames in a wide range of styles. From $425, vinylize.com

GROOVYLOOKING

PERFECTED

In a process perfected by the maker 10 years ago, discarded vinyl records are joined to cellulose acetate to create frames with a grooved vinyl veneer.

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PROJECTION

Painted indicators on rotating discs point out the hours, minutes, sec-onds, day and date on the watch’s continually rotating, photolumines-cent display. Refraction produces the impression that the indications are projected onto the inside of the crystal.

CONFIGURATION

Instead of a metal case, the watch is a sandwich of two

convex sapphire crystals. The entire sapphire crystal case-back rotates to wind and set

the watch, making a tradi-tional crown unnecessary.

LUXEFINDER

BLACKMAGIC A quest to zero in on the most essential elements of timekeeping has led

newcomer Ressence to create its Type 3, a fluid-filled crystal bubble of a watch that fulfills all the usual timekeeping functions without a crown and without traditional hands. $34,600, 201.894.4710, totallyworthit.com


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C e n t r a l C h r o n o g r a p h

collection: Hydroscaph..................................................................................................................................created by: Gerald Clerc.................................................................................................................................

limited//edition

case//steel 103 elements/locking rotating bezel/water resistant 500m/movement//automatic chronograph/hand-crafted in switzerland/please call 1800-513-5866or visit clercwatches.com

C e n t r a l C h r o n o g r a p h

collection: ...............................................................................................................................created by: ...............................................................................................................................case//steel locking rotating bezel/water resistant movement//automatic chronograph/hand-crafted in switzerland/please call or visit clercwatches.com

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+FIVE MINUTES WITH...

NIK WALLENDA | LIFE ON THE WIRETEXT BY: KEITH W. STRANDBERG

F A M I L Y B U S I N E S S“My family has paved the road for me,” Wallenda says, regard-ing his success. “We have been doing this for seven genera-tions—more than 200 years. I started walking the wire at the age of 2, and I have a real passion for it. My great-grand-father Karl used to say, ‘Life is on the wire; everything else is just waiting.’”

Feats that would certainly incite fear in most people are challenges that Wallenda ap-proaches with concentration, which makes the time seem to

compress for this performer. “I’m not fearful when I begin a wire walk. I am respectful,” he explains. “I have the butterflies, certainly. If the wind is calm and the wire is stable under my feet, they go away. When I get to the other side, I think back, and it seems as if only seconds have passed. Crossing the Grand Canyon took 22 minutes, 54 seconds. Niagara Falls was 27 minutes, but it felt more like 30 seconds. I get into a zone, and I am in my own world, focused on what I’m doing. Time seems to stop; everything goes away.”

T R A C K I N G T I M ENevertheless, Wallenda con-fronts a tragic history every time he steps onto the wire: in 1978, Karl Wallenda, who taught Nik so much about life on the wire, fell to his death at age 73, attempting a walk between the towers of the Condado Plaza Hotel in San

Juan, Puerto Rico. To remind himself of how precious every moment is, both on and o¢ the wire, Wallenda loves fine watches. He wore a JeanRichard Terrascope while crossing the Grand Canyon (he also carried 14 pounds of camera gear, so the weight of the watch didn’t throw him o¢ one iota).

His watch also keeps him on schedule. “When it’s showtime, it’s showtime,” he says with a smile. “I can’t be late for anything, it’s just who I am. I expect others to be on time, so I have to be on time myself.”

“I think the JeanRichard timepieces are beautiful,” he continues. “I love the style and the concept. A Rolex is a Rolex, but a lot of people have Rolexes. I like that JeanRichard is di¢erent. People want to know what I am wearing, and they look at my watch.”

Wallenda first met the peo-ple from JeanRichard after

his Niagara Falls walk, and they just clicked. “They thought what I do is unique but also

relatable, and they really got it,” he explains. “I want people to see that I am a

normal person with an extraordinary job, and

this matches JeanRichard and who they are.”Wallenda wouldn’t trade

his unusual job for anything. “It’s not only a job, it’s a lifestyle,” he says. “I feel blessed to be do-ing something that I love. I get paid to inspire people and make them happy. What more can you ask for in life?”jeanrichard.com

For most of us, going to work isn’t a life or death proposition. But for high-wire artist Nik Wallenda, of the legendary Flying Wallendas, each day has the potential for ending tragically. Recently, Wallenda attracted an audience of bil-lions with his televised crossing of the Grand Canyon without a safety harness. The only thing that separated this wire walker from a fall of 1,500 feet and certain death was a two-inch cable. I recently caught up with Wallenda to talk about life on the wire and his new relationship with Swiss watch brand JeanRichard.

look at my watch.”


Wallenda’s June 23 Grand Canyon crossing and the JeanRichard Terrascope, $2,900

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The JeanRichard Terrascope, $2,900

The JeanRichard Terrascope, $2,900

+

“MY GREAT- GRANDFATHER KARL USED TO SAY, ‘LIFE IS ON THE WIRE; EVERYTHING ELSE IS JUST WAITING.’”

—NIK WALLENDAHIGH-WIRE ARTIST

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+FIVE MINUTES WITH...

THE GRÖNEFELD BROTHERS | MAKING THEIR WAY IN THE WATCH WORLDTEXT BY: KEITH W. STRANDBERG

A C H A N G I N G W O R L DThe two third-generation watchmakers took the leap after 10 years spent providing after-sales service work to com-panies such as Breitling and Audemars Piguet. The decision had a lot to do with seeking a higher level of satisfaction from their work. Bart explains, “The brands say ‘thank you’ and pay their bills on time, but there was no emotion for us. Today, when we deliver a watch to a client, we see the smile on their faces. It’s like moving from backup singer to frontman.”

“We started developing our first watch before the crisis, in 2005, when everyone was do-ing really well,” Tim recounts. “Then we came out, and it was a complete disaster. The world has changed quite a lot

for watches. In today’s world, clients want something spe-cial—you can’t just come with a normal perpetual calendar, for example—but that turned out to be good for us.”

A D U T C H A P P R O A C H“I wanted to do something that hadn’t been seen before,” adds Bart, who has special-ized in complications from the age of 20. What he came up with was the Grönefeld One Hertz, a deadbeat seconds wristwatch with an unusual mechanism. “Most deadbeat seconds watches use

a relatively simple mechanism,” he explains. “But we had the idea to adapt a secondary gear train from a pocket watch, and we invented a mechanism that doesn’t wear at all. We also wanted a distinctive look for the movement, so we designed spe-cial bridges with huge bevels that show o� the handwork. The movements don’t look Swiss or German—they look Dutch!”

Bart specializes in mecha-nisms, while Tim’s expertise is in regulation, and they collabo-rate on design and marketing. “We couldn’t imagine doing

this alone.

Together, the decisions are easier. If we disagree, we discuss it, and we find out that one or the other is right.” The siblings haven’t always enjoyed this kind of relation-ship. Bart describes their younger years as contentious, but their mutual passion for watches eventually triumphed. “In watchmaking school, we really connected,” he says. “We learned how to work together in our early jobs at Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi, and in the evenings we would always talk about watches.”

The brothers really seem to relish the challenge they have set for themselves. “We are working hard to build Grönefeld into a brand and to reach more customers,” says Tim. The two are also working hard to expand their product line, with plans for at least one new watch per year through 2020. Summing it up, Bart says, “Every day there is something special for us to do, something for us to look forward to.” gronefeld.nl

Even under the best circumstances, making it as an independent watch company is no easy task. Producing great watches is the first challenge, but there is also marketing and sales to handle. Add to all of that a home base far from the big watchmaking centers and a launch date that coin-cided with the advent of a global financial crisis, and you begin to get a sense of the circumstances stacked against brothers Tim and Bart Grönefeld when they jumped into the market with their self-named brand in 2008. Nevertheless, Netherlands-based Grönefeld Exclusive Timepieces is steadily making inroads as a result of the brothers’ dedication, cooperation and their original take on horological complications.

for us to look forward to.” gronefeld.nl

first watch before the crisis, in 2005, when everyone was do-ing really well,” Tim recounts. “Then we came out, and it was a complete disaster. The world has changed quite a lot

The limited edition (30 pieces) One Hertz Fire in titanium with flame-colored accents, $60,200

+

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The GTM-06 minute repeater in platinum, $374,0

00

TheGTM-06 minute repeater in platinum, $374,00

0000

+The One Hertz Classic in titanium, $60,200

TheOne Hertz Classic in titaniiuumm,, $60,200

+


“ EVERY DAY THERE IS SOMETHING SPECIAL FOR US TO DO, SOMETHING FOR US TO LOOK FORWARD TO.”

—BART GRÖNEFELD

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jewelry techniques come to the fore as ralph lauren’s Stirrup watch gets dressed in diamonds

the making of a

ybyb DaDaD viviv didi BowBowBo eny

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INCE DEBUTING FOUR YEARS AGO, RALPH LAUREN’S SIGNATURE STIRRUP TIMEPIECE COLLECTION HAS GROWN

TO SHOWCASE 25 MODELS, each immediately rec-ognizable by its stirrup-shaped dial and case, which gracefully and subtly evoke the company’s a�nity for the equestrian world. The various models in the collection di�er in their specific functions, designs and material—two- or three-hand time display, white or rose gold, stainless steel or platinum, with or without diamonds. But one model stands out as the crown jewel of the Ralph Lauren timepieces, the fullest display of the superb craftsmanship that has marked this collection from the beginning. The largest and most complex of the maker’s link bracelet options, this medium 18-karat white gold piece comes dazzlingly paved with more than 1,900 hand-set diamonds, totaling approximately 35 carats.

The diamonds have been expertly cut to 20 di�erent sizes to fit the curving contours of the stirrup-shaped case and the lithe curves of the bracelet links exactly; the result is an elegantly complex sur-

face that produces unimpeded fire from every angle as row after snugly staggered row of gemstones catch the light. The choice of white gold as the precious metal forming the base for the pavé dia-mond ornamentation was an aesthetic one, intended to create both brilliance and subtlety in the finished piece.

The artisanal processes involved in producing this high-jewelry piece are extremely labor-intensive, with each piece taking four months to complete. First, the Swiss-based artisan fashions a wax mold in the shape of a bracelet-link; the intricate process of the lost-wax casting technique ensures that each link cast in white gold retains the finest of details, which is necessary for prop-erly setting each and every diamond with utmost precision. The technique of creating each of the tiny cupped holes into which a diamond will be set is called mitraillage, a term derived from the French word for shot; but, here, the word refers to a thing of grace and beauty, a purely handcrafted art that will result in a final product in which the diamonds precisely follow the complex curves of the link bracelet.

S

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2. Three stages in the process: wax model, cast gold link, diamond-set link

6. Final polishing

3. Setting the diamonds on a bracelet link

1. Attaching the first links

4. Diamond setting on the case

5. Assembling the links

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The application of the diamonds is trusted only to a highly experienced jew-eler, because the setting of the finely calibrated stones in grain settings is a painstaking process that relies almost entirely on hand-eye coordination and Olympian patience. The 32.4-by-34.3-mm case alone is set with more than half of the diamonds required for the entire piece. Prior to the jewel setting, the case has al-ready been expertly attached to the first bracelet links using a handheld blowtorch. Once all of the diamonds have been set, the case and bracelet are thoroughly pol-ished using a small manual polisher until the smooth gem-covered surface reaches its full brilliance. Ralph Lauren Watch & Jewelry executive chairman Callum Barton says, “The Stirrup Medium Diamond Link Full Pavé timepiece is the result of many months of expert artisan labor. Each dia-mond is set by hand by the artisan, and the result is a glittering tes-

timony to Ralph Lauren’s commitment to fine jewelry craftsmanship.”

Surrounded by the frame of the sparkling stirrup-shaped case, the Roman numerals of the lacquered dial are finely arrayed at the perimeter. The slim yet bold forms include an unconventional “IIII,” balancing the four-digit “VIII” on the opposite side of the dial. The visual effect created by the ring of numerals is that of a classical arched portal. The dial is protected by a curved sapphire crystal with colorless anti-reflective treat-ment on both sides.

The distinctively shaped case encloses a self-winding mechanical manufacture movement, Caliber RL701, constructed from 144 individual components and deco-rated with Côtes de Genève and perlage engraving. The finished product is

a milestone of both horological craftsman-ship and high jewelry techniques for Ralph Lauren Watch & Jewelry.

With so much time and expert artisan labor involved in the making of each piece, the number of pieces available is extremely limited. Customers can find the watch, priced at $220,000, at select Ralph Lauren flagship boutiques, including those in Paris, New York and Hong Kong. Interested parties will want to act quickly. But while time flies in the race for this high-jewelry masterpiece, you can be certain that artisans responsible will continue to surprise us with further testaments to their mastery, and that Ralph Lauren Watch & Jewelry will continue to outdo itself by producing timepieces of

elite craftsmanship.ralphlaurenwatches.com

The Ralph Lauren Stirrup Medium Diamond Link Full Pavé, $220,000

+

“ Each diamond is set by hand by the artisan, and the result is a glittering testimony to Ralph Lauren’s

commitment to fine jewelry craftsmanship.” — Callum Barton

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VACHERON CONSTANTIN PRIORITIZES SOPHISTICATED

MECHANICAL TIMEPIECES FOR WOMEN

by Keith W. Strandberg

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Vacheron Constantin's Patrimony Contemporaine Lady in rose gold with diamonds, $47,900

Vacheron Constantin's Patrimony Contemporaine Lady in rose gold with diamonds, $47,900

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I t hasn’t been long since the idea that women might spend their hard-

earned cash on mechanical watches was looked upon with skepticism by most of the watch industry. Conventional wisdom held that only fashion-influenced styles and quartz movements would interest fe-male consumers. The tide is now turning. Women are indeed purchasing mechani-cal watches, and top makers are devoting larger portions of their production to watches for women. For Vacheron Con-stantin, the idea that a watchmaking house should devote a portion of its production to women’s watches is nothing new. The prestigious Swiss manufacture has been developing sophisticated mechanical watches for women throughout its long history, and its latest o�erings reflect the way Vacheron Constantin is prioritizing the design and production of exquisite haute horologie timepieces for this ex-panding market segment.

Vacheron Constantin was founded in 1755, and by the early 1800s, ladies’ watches were an important part of its watchmaking commissions, especially those coming from European clients, fol-lowed by American, Chinese and Indian clients. Hugues de Pins, president of Vacheron Constantin North America, com-ments, “Women have always been the most demanding clients, inspiring us to push the boundaries of design. If you look at the ladies’ watches in our historical collection, they are all extremely refined, combining di�erent artistic crafts (enameling, gem-setting, engraving and miniature painting) with the same level of technical excellence as any other Vacheron Constantin watch.

“ OUR CLIENTS EXPECT THE SAME AMOUNT OF EFFORT AND CARE IN THE CREATION AND DEVELOPMENT OF DEDICATED FEMININE TIMEPIECES AS THEY DO IN GENTS’ WATCHES.”

—Juan-Carlos Torres

The 1972 in rose gold with diamonds and Caliber 1202 quartz movement, $39,900

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Select examples of vintage ladies' watches by Vacheron Constantin

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Women were the first to adopt wristwatches. As early as the 19th century, we find por-traits of women wearing wristwatches.”

Today, the brand continues to design and build ladies’ mechanical watches from the ground up. According to CEO Juan-Carlos Torres, it’s the only approach that makes sense. He says, “Vacheron Constantin is a leading brand in the haute horlogerie field, therefore we ad-dress our timepieces to both men and women. Consequently, our product offer-ing in the field of mechanical timepieces for women is not only legitimate, it is also constantly growing both in terms of models and turnover.”

As the number of watch-savvy women grows, so too must the o�erings from Vacheron Constantin. “In our boutiques, we now have nearly as many women as men as customers. Women don’t want only trendy, fashionable items; they ap-preciate the longevity, exclusivity, beauty and rarity of mechanical watches. At the same time, they want to get the best value for their money,” says de Pins. “There is huge enthusiasm from a whole new gen-eration of female customers who are knowledgeable about watches, who are reading the watch magazines and lov-ing mechanical watches.” These desires are answered by novelties presented this year in the maker’s leading collections: Patrimony, Malte and Métiers d’Art.

DESIGN DETAILSWhile men’s and ladies’ models from each of these collections share basic design codes, Vacheron Constantin’s ladies’ watches are distinguished by refined feminine details. As an example, Torres points to the Patrimony Contemporaine Lady. He says, “This watch has the rec-ognizable aesthetics of the Patrimony Contemporaine, but we have designed and conceived this watch from scratch with a feminine character. This feminine character can be found, for example, in the minutes track, which is delicately paved with brilliant-cut diamonds, and in the gold bracelet, which is subtly curved and polished.”

Vacheron Constantin artistic direc-tor Christian Selmoni explains that the maker’s newest women’s watches are inspired by what women appreciate and want in a fine timepiece. “We are now developing ladies watches using the same

GENEVA HALLMARK

Originally established in 1886 as a trademark representing both a quality standard and a watch’s origins in the Swiss Canton on Geneva, the Geneva Hallmark (also known as the Geneva Seal and as the Poinçon de Genève) underwent a transformation last year when new performance standards were added to the criteria. The current certification process tests both a watch’s uncased movement and the completed watch. The standard for precision is plus or minus one minute over seven days—about eight seconds per day.

While men’s and ladies’ models from each

paved with brilliant-cut diamonds, and in

While men’s and ladies’ models from each

paved with brilliant-cut diamonds, and in

The proprietary self-winding movement of the Patrimony Contemporaine Lady, which has earned the Geneva Hallmark

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design codes as masculine watches in our collections, such as Patrimony or Malte, but these watches are redesigned to adapt to our female clients,” Selmoni details. “If we really want to address women, we have to have a design plan for women. Going for-ward, we will introduce more watches using this same philosophy.”

HALLMARK QUALITYInside the refined cases of the newest women’s watches from Vacheron Constantin, customers find mechanical movements of the highest quality and finest finishing. O�ering great mechanical movements in its ladies' watches is just part of a larger goal: Vacheron Constantin wants every new watch that bears its name to have earned the Geneva Hallmark, a prestigious quality and performance certification. “Watches

bearing the Geneva Hallmark remain our priority because they truly embody our savoir-faire,” says de Pins. “The move to 100-percent Geneva Hallmark certification is a commitment by Vacheron Constantin to watchmaking excellence. There are very few watch companies whose watches qualify for the Geneva Hallmark; it is the most demanding certification for quality and origin in the industry.”

Currently, about 80 percent of women’s watches from Vacheron Constantin are simple timekeepers, displaying the hours, minutes and seconds. However, accord-ing to Torres, more and more women are requesting complicated movements with more special functions, such as chrono-graphs and moon phase indication. “We have seen a growing interest from our feminine clientele for mechanical, haute

horlogerie watches,” says Torres. “This trend became significant in the early 2000s, when women started to ‘borrow’ mechanical watches from their husbands and friends. Then, in 2002, Vacheron Constantin pre-sented a complicated timepiece dedicated to ladies, the Malte Moon-Phase and Power-Reserve, which became a success. Now we have a much broader o�ering of ladies watches with mechanical movements, both manual-winding and self-winding, and the demand is still growing.”

Take another good look at that Patrimony Contemporaine Lady. With its subtle and re-fined design modifications and its proprietary self-winding mechanical movement, proudly bearing the Geneva Hallmark, it is a sign of what is to come from Vacheron Constantin.

vacheron-constantin.com

Métier d'Art Florilège Queen $125,600

Malte Lady $23,000

Patrimony Contemporaine Lady $87,300

CO_WJ26_082


Baron’s Jewelers Dublin, CA | Ravits Watches San Francisco, CA | Time Spot Thousand Oaks, CA | Old Northeast Jewelers St. Petersburg & Tampa, FL New York Jewelers Chicago, IL | Madison Jewelers New York, NY | London Jewelers Greenvale, NY | Schiffman’s Greensboro & Winston-Salem, NCShreve & Co. Portland, OR | Chas S. Nacol Jewelry Beaumont, TX | Shannon Fine Jewelry Houston & The Woodlands, TXOccasions Fine Jewelry Midland, TX | Timeless Luxury Watches Frisco, TX | World Lux Seattle, WA | Pounder’s Jewelry Spokane, WA

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De Bethune DB25 Imperial Fountain Snake with peripheral hours and minutes indication on rotating discs

CO_WJ26_084

DeBethune_WJ26.indd 84 10/10/13 12:26 PM

T he newest special edition timepiece set from De Bethune has an air of cultural exchange about it. Responding to the requests of

Asian collectors for special timepieces with Asian themes, watchmaker De Bethune debuted a special edition DB25 Imperial Fountain set at this year’s Baselworld fair. Inspired by the 12 bronze animal-head sculp-tures that once adorned an ornate fountain in Imperial China’s Old Summer Palace, the 12 watches feature elaborate engravings repre-senting the 12 signs of the Chinese zodiac and are only sold in com-plete sets of 12. To understand the significance of this special edition, it helps to know a little Chinese....

THE FOUNTAIN

Situated just outside of modern-day Beijing, China, the Old Summer Palace (Yuanming Yuan in Chinese), a complex of palaces and gardens reserved for the emperor, featured a mix of traditional Chinese structures and several incredible examples of Western architecture. Construction began in the 48th year of the reign of Kangxi (1709) and continued for about a century, as the site was expanded and developed by succeeding emperors. A celebrated royal museum in the expansive gardens housed numerous treasures, cultural relics, books, paintings and art as well as fantastic fountains. One of these, the Haiyantang fountain at the Palace of the Calm Seas—said to have been built in the mid-1700s by Jesuit mis-sionary and artist Giuseppe Castiglione, Jesuit scientist Michel Benoist and numerous Chinese artisans—was a masterwork.

SPEAK I NG

CHINESEDE BETHUNE INTRODUCES THE DB25 IMPERIAL

FOUNTAIN SPECIAL EDITION SET

BY KEITH W. STRANDBERG

CO_WJ26_085


Flanking a central pool, sculptures representing the signs of the Chinese Zodiac—with cast bronze animal heads atop hand-carved stone bodies—were arranged in two lines, six on each side. In addition to their role in Chinese as-trology, the 12 animals of the zodiac are also integral to Chinese timekeeping, in which each animal represents a two-hour period of the day. For example, the dragon rules 7–9 a.m. So, in addition to being an amazing example of water-works, the fountain was designed to func-tion as a water clock, with water jetting from the mouth of the appropriate sculp-ture at two-hour intervals.

In 1860, French and British soldiers looted the Old Summer Palace during the Second Opium War, stealing many

priceless works of art, including the bronze animal heads. Today, Yuanming Yuan is in ruins, a sad testament to a failed experiment of Eastern-Western cooperation, and only seven of the origi-nal 12 bronze heads have been found. These sculptures are a powerful symbol for the Chinese and the subject of world-wide interest. When any of the sculptures are returned to China, it always makes headlines. Just this year, François-Henri Pinault, head of the French luxury group Kering (which owns Girard-Perregaux, JeanRichard and Gucci), purchased two of the Haiyantang fountain animal heads from the estate of Yves Saint Laurent and returned them to the Chinese people this summer. Five of the sculptures re-main unaccounted for.

THE WATCH PROJECT

The most prominent feature of each of the 12 DB25 watches in De Bethune’s Imperial Fountain set is an animal head, rendered by hand in bas-relief engraving by master artist Michèle Rothen, against a grand feu enamel dial. Rothen was par-ticularly challenged by this project be-cause each of the 12 engravings had to have its own unique look, but they also had to hold together as a set. “The har-mony of the set was a key point, because each animal of the horoscope should be created evenly but keeping its own character,” Rothen says. “There were some aesthetic challenges because we had to find a balance between the dif-ferent engraved parts of the dial while

Flanking a central pool, sculptures representing the signs of the Chinese Zodiac—with cast bronze animal heads atop hand-carved stone bodies—were arranged in two lines, six on each side. In addition to their role in Chinese as-trology, the 12 animals of the zodiac are also integral to Chinese timekeeping, in which each animal represents a two-hour period of the day. For example, the dragon rules 7–9 a.m. So, in addition to being an amazing example of water-works, the fountain was designed to func-tion as a water clock, with water jetting from the mouth of the appropriate sculp-ture at two-hour intervals.

In 1860, French and British soldiers looted the Old Summer Palace during the Second Opium War, stealing many

priceless works of art, including the bronze animal heads. Today, Yuanming Yuan is in ruins, a sad testament to a failed experiment of Eastern-Western cooperation, and only seven of the origi-nal 12 bronze heads have been found. These sculptures are a powerful symbol for the Chinese and the subject of world-wide interest. When any of the sculptures are returned to China, it always makes headlines. Just this year, François-Henri Pinault, head of the French luxury group Kering (which owns Girard-Perregaux, JeanRichard and Gucci), purchased two of the Haiyantang fountain animal heads from the estate of Yves Saint Laurent and returned them to the Chinese people this summer. Five of the sculptures re-main unaccounted for.

THE WATCH PROJECT

The most prominent feature of each of the 12 DB25 watches in De Bethune’s Imperial Fountain set is an animal head, rendered by hand in bas-relief engraving by master artist Michèle Rothen, against a grand feu enamel dial. Rothen was par-ticularly challenged by this project be-cause each of the 12 engravings had to have its own unique look, but they also had to hold together as a set. “The har-mony of the set was a key point, because each animal of the horoscope should be created evenly but keeping its own character,” Rothen says. “There were some aesthetic challenges because we had to find a balance between the dif-ferent engraved parts of the dial while

CO_WJ26_086



maximizing the effect of the embossed design, even though there is a minimum amount of material available.” Design-ing and engraving a total of four sets was demanding in another way as well. Rothen explains, “It was a huge project to make these 12 piece sets because they had to be done at the same time and I had to remain focused on the topic for weeks, without undertaking anything else. Otherwise, I was afraid I would lose the continuity of the designs.”

Because Rothen’s engravings occupy the space where a watch’s hands would normally be, De Bethune co-founder and technical director Denis Flageollet and his team were faced with an unusual challenge—where to put the time dis-play? The answer was peripheral hands

attached to two revolving time-display discs, which are driven by a new trans-mission system, part of the manual-wind-ing Caliber DB 2145. This new movement uses the De Bethune trademark silicon and white gold balance wheel and a bal-ance spring with flat terminal curve as well as the company’s patented triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system. It has a power reserve of six days.

With this project, De Bethune took a potentially divisive subject and made it the focus of a truly exceptional set of timepieces. The watches honor China’s long history in timekeeping while also celebrating centuries of cooperation between East and West. At the same time, it memorializes the tragic looting of the Old Summer Palace. De Bethune

co-owner David Zanetta found the proj-ect more than intriguing. He comments, “The way you view these watches is very personal. What I like is that these watches transmit the inspiration be-tween the two cultures, and it wasn’t just a one-way street; the inspiration went both ways and lasted for centuries.”

“To me, the DB25 Imperial Fountain is a fascinating project that reflects Chinese and European cultures and contains many levels of meaning, all open to interpreta-tion,” Zanetta adds. The DB25 Imperial Fountain timepiece set manages to amaze, honor and enlighten at the same time, and stands apart as a shining example of horol-ogy and métier d’art.

debethune.com

maximizing the effect of the embossed design, even though there is a minimum amount of material available.” Design-ing and engraving a total of four sets was demanding in another way as well. Rothen explains, “It was a huge project to make these 12 piece sets because they had to be done at the same time and I had to remain focused on the topic for weeks, without undertaking anything else. Otherwise, I was afraid I would lose the continuity of the designs.”

Because Rothen’s engravings occupy the space where a watch’s hands would normally be, De Bethune co-founder and technical director Denis Flageollet and his team were faced with an unusual challenge—where to put the time dis-play? The answer was peripheral hands

attached to two revolving time-display discs, which are driven by a new trans-mission system, part of the manual-wind-ing Caliber DB 2145. This new movement uses the De Bethune trademark silicon and white gold balance wheel and a bal-ance spring with flat terminal curve as well as the company’s patented triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system. It has a power reserve of six days.

With this project, De Bethune took a potentially divisive subject and made it the focus of a truly exceptional set of timepieces. The watches honor China’s long history in timekeeping while also celebrating centuries of cooperation between East and West. At the same time, it memorializes the tragic looting of the Old Summer Palace. De Bethune

co-owner David Zanetta found the proj-ect more than intriguing. He comments, “The way you view these watches is very personal. What I like is that these watches transmit the inspiration be-tween the two cultures, and it wasn’t just a one-way street; the inspiration went both ways and lasted for centuries.”

“To me, the DB25 Imperial Fountain is a fascinating project that reflects Chinese and European cultures and contains many levels of meaning, all open to interpreta-tion,” Zanetta adds. The DB25 Imperial Fountain timepiece set manages to amaze, honor and enlighten at the same time, and stands apart as a shining example of horol-ogy and métier d’art.

debethune.com

CO_WJ26_087


ZENITH

➺ The Heritage Ultra Thin Lady

Moonphase by Zenith pairs a blue sun-ray dial with an alligator leather strap featuring a protective rubber lining. The 33-mm steel case is a slim 8.65

mm high. It holds Zenith’s Elite 692

automatic movement and has a thin

bezel set with a single row of sparkling

diamonds and a transparent caseback

to reveal the movement.

$7,600 * 866.675.2079, zenith-watches.com

CARL F. BUCHERER

➺ Swiss maker Carl F. Bucherer offers this variant in its Patravi

ChronoDate line. The 44.6-mm chronograph with big date display has a sunburst silver dial in a striking blue finish and a blue calfskin strap. Mechanical Caliber CFB 1956 features automatic winding and chronograph

functions, including a 12-hour totalizer.

$6,300 * 800.395.4306, carl-f-bucherer.com

ZENITHZENITHZENITHZENITHZENITHZENITHZENITHZENITH

➺ The Heritage Ultra Thin Lady

Moonphase by Zenith pairs a blue sun-ray dial with an alligator leather strap featuring a protective rubber lining.The 33-mm steel case is a slim 8.65

mm high. It holds Zenith’s Elite 692

automatic movement and has a thin

bezel set with a single row of sparkling

diamonds and a transparent caseback

to reveal the movement.

$7,600 * 866.675.2079, 866.675.2079, 866.675.2079, 866.675.2079, 866.675.2079, 866.675.2079, 866.675.2079, 866.675.2079, 866.675.2079, 866.675.2079, 866.675.2079, 866.675.2079, 866.675.2079, 866.675.2079, 866.675.2079, zenith-watches.comzenith-watches.comzenith-watches.comzenith-watches.comzenith-watches.comzenith-watches.comzenith-watches.comzenith-watches.comzenith-watches.comzenith-watches.comzenith-watches.comzenith-watches.comzenith-watches.comzenith-watches.comzenith-watches.com

CARL F. CARL F. CARL F. CARL F. CARL F. CARL F. CARL F. CARL F. BUCHERERBUCHERERBUCHERERBUCHERERBUCHERERBUCHERERBUCHERERBUCHERERBUCHERERBUCHERERBUCHERER

➺ Swiss maker Carl F. Bucherer offers this variant in its Patravi

ChronoDate line. The 44.6-mm chronograph with big date display has a sunburst silver dial in a striking blue finish and a blue calfskin strap. Mechanical Caliber CFB 1956 features automatic winding and chronograph

functions, including a 12-hour totalizer.

$6,300 * 800.395.4306, carl-f-bucherer.com800.395.4306, carl-f-bucherer.com800.395.4306, carl-f-bucherer.com800.395.4306, carl-f-bucherer.com800.395.4306, carl-f-bucherer.com800.395.4306, carl-f-bucherer.com800.395.4306, carl-f-bucherer.com800.395.4306, carl-f-bucherer.com800.395.4306, carl-f-bucherer.com800.395.4306, carl-f-bucherer.com

CO_WJ26_088

HolidayWatches_WJ26.indd 88 10/15/13 3:12 PM


THE ARRIVAL OF BLUE-BLOODED TIMEPIECES DECKED OUT IN A FAVORITE HUE IS CAUSE FOR CELEBRATION

e know something special is afoot when a large contingent

of top watch manufacturers comes to market with a wide range of

beautiful pieces that have something big in common. This season, a

proliferation of watches in shades of blue—the most universally loved segment

of the color wheel—is making a strong appearance. Enchanting azure, cobalt,

navy, sapphire and indigo hues are everywhere as luxury watch producers move

beyond the familiar blued steel (a material used for centuries in watchmaking)

to incorporate brilliant blue gemstones and lapis lazuli, deep blue sapphire crys-

tal, cool blue leather, translucent blue lacquer, soft blue rubber and other excit-

ing materials into their watch creations. With new blue watches in shades from

vibrant to serene and in a wide range of prices, it would seem that the watch

world has this emerging trend all buckled up. And the fact that many of these

watches are arriving in stores right now is sure to make for many happy holidays.

W



e know something special is afoot

of top watch manufacturers comes to market with a wide range of

beautiful pieces that have something big in common. This season, a

proliferation of watches in shades of blue—the most universally loved segment

of the color wheel—is making a strong appearance. Enchanting azure, cobalt,

W

CO_WJ26_089


IWC

➺ Portofino Handwound Eight Days from

IWC features an appealing blue dial with red accents. The 45-mm stainless steel

watch features a manual-winding mechani-

cal movement with Breguet hairspring, hack-

ing seconds and power reserve indication. A

full wind provides eight days of power.

$10,800 * 800.432.9330, iwc.com

TAG HEUER

➺ TAG Heuer introduces a navy blue dial and navy blue alligator

strap to its Carrera Calibre 1887. The 41-mm polished steel chro-

nograph uses TAG Heuer’s own Swiss-made automatic Calibre 1887 movement. Its winding rotor features Côtes de Genève

engraving and is seen through the sapphire crystal caseback.

$5,400 * 866.675.2080, tagheuer.com

TAG Heuer introduces a navy blue dial and navy blue alligator

nograph uses

1887 movement.engraving and is seen through the sapphire crystal caseback.

$5,400$5,400$5,400$5,400$5,400$5,400

JAQUET DROZ

➺ Eye-catching color imparts a subtly mod-

ernized look to this new version of Jaquet

Droz’s flagship Grande Seconde Quantième

wristwatch. When light hits the dial’s linear Geneva Stripes engraving, the surface seems to shimmer with changing hues. The 43-mm steel watch uses a self-winding

Jaquet Droz Caliber 2660Q2 and displays

subsidiary seconds and the date at 6.

$9,300 888.866.0059, jaquet-droz.com

IWCIWCIWCIWCIWC

➺ Portofino Handwound Eight Days from

IWC features an appealing blue dial with red accents. The 45-mm stainless steel

watch features a manual-winding mechani-

cal movement with Breguet hairspring, hack-



$10,800 * 800.432.9330, iwc.com800.432.9330, iwc.com800.432.9330, iwc.com800.432.9330, iwc.com800.432.9330, iwc.com800.432.9330, iwc.com800.432.9330, iwc.com800.432.9330, iwc.com800.432.9330, iwc.com800.432.9330, iwc.com800.432.9330, iwc.com800.432.9330, iwc.com800.432.9330, iwc.com800.432.9330, iwc.com

TAG HEUERTAG HEUERTAG HEUER


strap to its Carrera Calibre 1887. The 41-mm polished steel chro-

TAG Heuer’s own Swiss-made automatic Calibre

red accentswatch features a manual-winding mechani

cal movement with Breguet hairspring, hack



$10,800

TAG HEUERTAG HEUERTAG HEUERTAG HEUERTAG HEUERTAG HEUERTAG HEUERTAG HEUER


JAQUET DROZJAQUET DROZJAQUET DROZJAQUET DROZJAQUET DROZJAQUET DROZJAQUET DROZJAQUET DROZJAQUET DROZJAQUET DROZJAQUET DROZJAQUET DROZ

➺ Eye-catching color imparts a subtly modEye-catching color imparts a subtly mod-

ernized look to this new version of Jaquet ernized look to this new version of Jaquet

Droz’s flagship Grande Seconde Quantième Droz’s flagship Grande Seconde Quantième

wristwatch. wristwatch. When light hits the dial’s linear Geneva StripesGeneva Stripes engraving, the surface seems to shimmer with changing hues.seems to shimmer with changing hues.The 43-mm steel watch uses a self-winding The 43-mm steel watch uses a self-winding

Jaquet Droz Caliber 2660Q2 and displays

subsidiary seconds and the date at 6.

$9,300 888.866.0059, 888.866.0059, 888.866.0059, 888.866.0059, 888.866.0059, jaquet-droz.comjaquet-droz.comjaquet-droz.comjaquet-droz.comjaquet-droz.comjaquet-droz.comjaquet-droz.comjaquet-droz.com

CO_WJ26_090



F.P. JOURNE ➺ The 39-mm case of F.P. Journe’s

Chronomètre Bleu is made of tantalum,

a rare dark gray metal with blue over-

tones. The chrome blue dial was designed to harmonize with the color of the case. In typical F.P.

Journe style, the watch’s manual-winding manufacture

Caliber 1304 is made of 18-karat rose gold. It features dual

mainspring barrels and is adjusted in six positions.

$19,890 * 212.644.5918, fpjourne.com

PIAGET

➺ A wafer-thin slice of

lapis lazuli forms the deep

blue, pyrite-studded, natu-

ral stone dial of the 38-mm

Altiplano watch by Piaget.

The 18-karat white gold case is just 6.6 mm in thickness

and holds the ultra-thin hand-winding manufacture Piaget

430P movement, an example of the maker’s expertise in the

extremes of miniaturization.

$26,500 * 877.8PIAGET, piaget.com

09112:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O m

F.P. JOURNEF.P. JOURNEF.P. JOURNEThe 39-mm case of F.P. Journe’s


a rare dark gray metal with blue over-

tones. The chrome blue dial was designed to harmonize with the color of the case. In typical F.P.

Journe style, the watch’s manual-winding manufacture

Caliber 1304 is made of 18-karat rose gold. It features dual

mainspring barrels and is adjusted in six positions.

$19,890 * 212.644.5918, fpjourne.com212.644.5918, fpjourne.com212.644.5918, fpjourne.com212.644.5918, fpjourne.com212.644.5918, fpjourne.com212.644.5918, fpjourne.com212.644.5918, fpjourne.com212.644.5918, fpjourne.com212.644.5918, fpjourne.com212.644.5918, fpjourne.com212.644.5918, fpjourne.com212.644.5918, fpjourne.com212.644.5918, fpjourne.com212.644.5918, fpjourne.com212.644.5918, fpjourne.com212.644.5918, fpjourne.com212.644.5918, fpjourne.com212.644.5918, fpjourne.com212.644.5918, fpjourne.com212.644.5918, fpjourne.com

PIAGETPIAGETPIAGETPIAGETPIAGETPIAGET

A wafer-thin slice of


blue, pyrite-studded, natu-


Altiplano watch by Piaget.

The 18-karat white gold case is just 6.6 mm in thicknessand holds the ultra-thin hand-winding manufacture Piaget

430P movement, an example of the maker’s expertise in the


877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com

F.P. JOURNEF.P. JOURNEF.P. JOURNEF.P. JOURNEF.P. JOURNE ➺ The 39-mm case of F.P. Journe’s


a rare dark gray metal with blue over

tones.

to harmonize with the color of the case.Journe style, the watch’s manual-winding manufacture

F.P. JOURNEF.P. JOURNEF.P. JOURNEF.P. JOURNEF.P. JOURNEF.P. JOURNEF.P. JOURNEThe 39-mm case of F.P. Journe’s

PIAGETPIAGETPIAGETPIAGET

➺ A wafer-thin slice of


blue, pyrite-studded, natu



$26,500 * 877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com877.8PIAGET, piaget.com

CO_WJ26_091


VERSACE

➺ Versace’s new Destiny Precious is a steel and

18-karat gold timepiece that brings a different kind of movement to watchmaking with its dazzling

display of 70 free-floating blue sapphires between layers of anti-reflective sapphire crystal. The time

display of the mother-of-pearl dial is driven by a Swiss

quartz mechanism, and a blue lizard and calfskin strap

completes the look.

$4,195 * 845.425.9882, versace.com

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

➺ Transparent blue lacquer over hand-guilloché engraving forms the

upper dial of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Celestial. The dial’s wide aperture reveals a rotating disc of lapis lazuli, displaying the constellations of the night sky. Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber

809 winds automatically and can be viewed through the

exhibition caseback.

$62,000 jaeger-lecoultre.com

BLANCPAIN

➺ The dramatic blue dial of the Blancpain

Women’s Flyback Chronograph is studded with diamond hour markers and framed by a diamond-set bezel. The 36-mm steel

case encloses a self-winding mechanical

chronograph movement, Caliber F185, with

flyback functionality for ease of timing

consecutive events. A satin-textured rub-

ber strap completes the piece.

$19,800 * 877.520.1735, blancpain.com

BLANCPAINBLANCPAINBLANCPAINBLANCPAINBLANCPAINBLANCPAINBLANCPAINBLANCPAINBLANCPAINBLANCPAIN

➺ The dramatic blue dial of the Blancpain

Women’s Flyback Chronograph is studded with diamond hour markers and framed by a diamond-set bezel. The 36-mm steel

case encloses a self-winding mechanical



consecutive events. A satin-textured rub-


$19,800 * 877.520.1735, 877.520.1735, 877.520.1735, 877.520.1735, 877.520.1735, 877.520.1735,

VERSACEVERSACEVERSACEVERSACEVERSACEVERSACEVERSACEVERSACE

➺ Versace’s new Destiny Precious is a steel and

18-karat gold timepiece that brings a different kind of movement to watchmaking with its dazzling

display of 70 free-floating blue sapphires between layers of anti-reflective sapphire crystal. The time



completes the look.

$4,195 * 845.425.9882, versace.com845.425.9882, versace.com845.425.9882, versace.com845.425.9882, versace.com845.425.9882, versace.com845.425.9882, versace.com845.425.9882, versace.com845.425.9882, versace.com845.425.9882, versace.com845.425.9882, versace.com

JAEGER-LECOULTREJAEGER-LECOULTREJAEGER-LECOULTREJAEGER-LECOULTREJAEGER-LECOULTREJAEGER-LECOULTREJAEGER-LECOULTREJAEGER-LECOULTREJAEGER-LECOULTREJAEGER-LECOULTREJAEGER-LECOULTREJAEGER-LECOULTREJAEGER-LECOULTREJAEGER-LECOULTREJAEGER-LECOULTREJAEGER-LECOULTREJAEGER-LECOULTREJAEGER-LECOULTREJAEGER-LECOULTRE

➺ Transparent blue lacquer over hand-guilloché engraving forms the

upper dial of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Celestial. The dial’s wide aperture reveals a rotating disc of lapis lazuli, displaying the constellations of the night sky. Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber

809 winds automatically and can be viewed through the


$62,000jaeger-lecoultre.comjaeger-lecoultre.comjaeger-lecoultre.comjaeger-lecoultre.comjaeger-lecoultre.comjaeger-lecoultre.comjaeger-lecoultre.comjaeger-lecoultre.com

blancpain.comblancpain.comblancpain.comblancpain.comblancpain.comblancpain.comblancpain.comblancpain.comblancpain.comblancpain.comblancpain.comblancpain.comblancpain.comblancpain.com

➺Women’s Flyback Chronograph is

with diamond hour markers and framed by a diamond-set bezel.case encloses a self-winding mechanical



consecutive events. A satin-textured rub


of movement to watchmaking with its dazzling display of 70 free-floating blue sapphires between

. The time



wide aperture reveals a rotating disc of lapis lazuli, displaying the constellations of the night sky.809 winds automatically and can be viewed through the


$62,000jaeger-lecoultre.comjaeger-lecoultre.comjaeger-lecoultre.comjaeger-lecoultre.comjaeger-lecoultre.comjaeger-lecoultre.com

CO_WJ26_092


CARL F. BUCHERER

➺ Brilliant blue sapphire

baguettes, blue dial décor and a

matching alligator strap unify the

look of the jeweled 18-karat white

gold Alacria Diva Blue, a limited

edition of 25 examples, by Carl

F. Bucherer. Diamonds along the casesides enhance the curves of the 45-mm-long case, and a quartz

movement powers the time display

of the silver dial.

$59,000 800.395.4306, carl-f-bucherer.com

DIOR

➺ Christian Dior’s taste for color is reflected in the décor of the 38-mm Christal Blue.

Light plays on the surfaces of the pyramid-shaped sapphire crystal elements that adorn the bezel and bracelet, producing multiple shades of blue. The watch’s

automatic mechanical movement features a blue-lacquered oscillating weight.

$7,200 * 866.675.2078, dior.com

DIORDIORDIORDIORDIOR

➺ Christian Dior’s taste for color is reflected in the décor of the 38-mm Christal Blue.

Light plays on the surfaces of the pyramid-shaped sapphire crystal elements that adorn the bezel and bracelet, producing multiple shades of blue. The watch’s

automatic mechanical movement features a blue-lacquered oscillating weight.

$7,200 *

CARL F. CARL F. CARL F. CARL F. CARL F. BUCHERERBUCHERERBUCHERERBUCHERERBUCHERERBUCHERERBUCHERERBUCHERERBUCHERERBUCHERERBUCHERER

➺ Brilliant blue sapphire

baguettes, blue dial décor and a

matching alligator strap unify the

look of the jeweled 18-karat white

gold Alacria Diva Blue, a limited

edition of 25 examples, by Carl

F. Bucherer. Diamonds along the casesides enhance the curves of the 45-mm-long case, and a quartz

movement powers the time display

of the silver dial.

$59,000 800.395.4306, 800.395.4306, 800.395.4306, 800.395.4306, 800.395.4306, 800.395.4306, 800.395.4306, 800.395.4306, carl-f-bucherer.comcarl-f-bucherer.comcarl-f-bucherer.comcarl-f-bucherer.comcarl-f-bucherer.comcarl-f-bucherer.com

866.675.2078, dior.com866.675.2078, dior.com866.675.2078, dior.com866.675.2078, dior.com866.675.2078, dior.com866.675.2078, dior.com866.675.2078, dior.com866.675.2078, dior.com866.675.2078, dior.com866.675.2078, dior.com866.675.2078, dior.com866.675.2078, dior.com866.675.2078, dior.com866.675.2078, dior.com866.675.2078, dior.com

CARL F. CARL F. CARL F. CARL F. BUCHERERBUCHERERBUCHERERBUCHERERBUCHERER


CO_WJ26_093


PATEK PHILIPPE

➺ The Patek Philippe Gondolo, Ref.

5200G projects a new persona with

a blue dial in a matte sunburst texture and a square-scaled

alligator strap in a shiny navy blue. The manual-winding move-

ment’s eight-day power reserve is

prominently indicated on the dial

at 12. The sapphire crystal back of

the white gold case reveals the

mechanism, which bears the Patek

Philippe Seal.

$59,400 * 212.218.1240, patek.com

FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT

➺ The midnight blue color of Frédérique Constant’s Slimline Moonphase

Manufacture evokes the night sky and provides an ideal backdrop for the watch’s moon phase display. The 42-mm stainless steel watch holds manu-

facture Caliber FC-705. The blue alligator strap has a water-resistant lining.

$3,550 * 855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com

MAÎTRES DU TEMPS

➺ Two styles of guilloché—sunray and Clous de Paris—lend intriguing texture

to the blue dial of the Chapter Three Reveal by Maîtres du Temps. In addition

to time, date and moon phase displays, the dial has concealed second time zone and day/night indicators in twin apertures that open

at the touch of a button. The 18-karat white gold case is 42

mm in diameter.

$93,000 * 570.970.8888, maitresdutemps.com

MAÎTRES DU TEMPSMAÎTRES DU TEMPSMAÎTRES DU TEMPSMAÎTRES DU TEMPSMAÎTRES DU TEMPSMAÎTRES DU TEMPSMAÎTRES DU TEMPSMAÎTRES DU TEMPSMAÎTRES DU TEMPSMAÎTRES DU TEMPSMAÎTRES DU TEMPSMAÎTRES DU TEMPSMAÎTRES DU TEMPSMAÎTRES DU TEMPSMAÎTRES DU TEMPSMAÎTRES DU TEMPS

➺ Two styles of guilloché—sunray and Clous de Paris—lend intriguing texture

to the blue dial of the Chapter Three Reveal by Maîtres du Temps. In addition

to time, date and moon phase displays, the dial has concealed second time zone and day/night indicators in twin apertures that open

at the touch of a button. The 18-karat white gold case is 42

mm in diameter.

$93,000 * 570.970.8888, 570.970.8888, 570.970.8888, 570.970.8888, 570.970.8888, 570.970.8888, 570.970.8888, 570.970.8888, 570.970.8888, 570.970.8888, 570.970.8888,

PATEK PHILIPPEPATEK PHILIPPEPATEK PHILIPPEPATEK PHILIPPEPATEK PHILIPPEPATEK PHILIPPEPATEK PHILIPPEPATEK PHILIPPEPATEK PHILIPPEPATEK PHILIPPEPATEK PHILIPPEPATEK PHILIPPEPATEK PHILIPPE

➺ The Patek Philippe Gondolo, Ref.

5200G projects a new persona with

a blue dial in a matte sunburst texture and a square-scaled

alligator strap in a shiny navy blue. The manual-winding move-

ment’s eight-day power reserve is

prominently indicated on the dial

at 12. The sapphire crystal back of

the white gold case reveals the

mechanism, which bears the Patek

Philippe Seal.

$59,400 * 212.218.1240, 212.218.1240, 212.218.1240, 212.218.1240, 212.218.1240, 212.218.1240, patek.compatek.compatek.compatek.compatek.compatek.compatek.compatek.compatek.compatek.compatek.com

FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANTFRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANTFRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANTFRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANTFRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANTFRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANTFRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANTFRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANTFRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANTFRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANTFRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANTFRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANTFRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANTFRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANTFRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANTFRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANTFRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANTFRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANTFRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANTFRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT

➺ The midnight blue color of Frédérique Constant’s Slimline Moonphase

Manufacture evokes the night sky and provides an ideal backdrop for the watch’s moon phase display. The 42-mm stainless steel watch holds manu-

facture Caliber FC-705. The blue alligator strap has a water-resistant lining.

$3,550 * 855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com

maitresdutemps.commaitresdutemps.commaitresdutemps.commaitresdutemps.com

Manufacture

watch’s moon phase display.facture Caliber FC-705. The blue alligator strap has a water-resistant lining.

$3,550 855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com

PATEK PHILIPPEPATEK PHILIPPEPATEK PHILIPPEPATEK PHILIPPEPATEK PHILIPPEPATEK PHILIPPE

CO_WJ26_094


BREMONT

➺ The blue dial of Bremont’s U-2 Blue is designed for absolute clarity,

and the watch has been extensively tested by the elite U-2 spy plane

squadron. Super-LumiNova illuminates the hands and markers in

low-light conditions. A COSC-certified automatic movement,

protected by a rubberized movement mount, lies inside of

a specially hardened stainless steel case.

$5,450 * 800.BREMONT, bremont.com

ULYSSE NARDIN

➺ Ulysse Nardin’s new boutique exclusive

limited edition Schooner chronograph has been designed in a clearly nautical vein as a tribute to the 1851 yacht America, the namesake of the

America’s Cup competition. The watch’s 45.8-mm

stainless steel case is coated with navy blue rub-

ber to match the strap. The seaworthy watch is

water-resistant to 200 meters.

$15,500 * 561.988.8600, ulysse-nardin.com

ULYSSE NARDINULYSSE NARDIN

➺ Ulysse Nardin’s new boutique exclusive

limited edition Schooner chronograph has been designed in a clearly nautical vein as a tribute to the 1851 yacht America, the namesake of the

America’s Cup competition. The watch’s 45.8-mm

stainless steel case is coated with navy blue rub-

ber to match the strap. The seaworthy watch is

water-resistant to 200 meters.

$15,500 * 561.988.8600, 561.988.8600, 561.988.8600, 561.988.8600, 561.988.8600, 561.988.8600, 561.988.8600, 561.988.8600, 561.988.8600, 561.988.8600,

BREMONTBREMONTBREMONTBREMONTBREMONTBREMONTBREMONTBREMONTBREMONTBREMONT

➺ The blue dial of Bremont’s U-2 Blue is designed for absolute clarity,


squadron. Super-LumiNova illuminates the hands and markers in

low-light conditions. A COSC-certified automatic movement,

protected by a rubberized movement mount, lies inside of

a specially hardened stainless steel case.

$5,450 * 800.BREMONT, bremont.com800.BREMONT, bremont.com800.BREMONT, bremont.com800.BREMONT, bremont.com800.BREMONT, bremont.com800.BREMONT, bremont.com800.BREMONT, bremont.com800.BREMONT, bremont.com800.BREMONT, bremont.com800.BREMONT, bremont.com

ulysse-nardin.comulysse-nardin.comulysse-nardin.comulysse-nardin.comulysse-nardin.comulysse-nardin.comulysse-nardin.comulysse-nardin.comulysse-nardin.comulysse-nardin.comulysse-nardin.comulysse-nardin.comulysse-nardin.com

U-2 Blue is designed for absolute clarity,


ULYSSE NARDINULYSSE NARDINULYSSE NARDINULYSSE NARDINULYSSE NARDINULYSSE NARDINULYSSE NARDINULYSSE NARDINULYSSE NARDINULYSSE NARDINULYSSE NARDINULYSSE NARDINULYSSE NARDIN


CO_WJ26_095


MAURICE LACROIX

➺ Maurice Lacroix’s Masterpiece Lune Rétrograde exudes contemporary spirit with its royal blue satin sunburst dial and array of clearly displayed complications—

phases of the moon, days of the week, retrograde

date and power reserve indication. The 43-mm steel

case holds automatic manufacture Caliber ML192,

which is adjusted in five positions.

$8,900 609.750.8800, mauricelacroix.com

BELL & ROSS

➺ Deep blue high-tech ceramic forms the 42-mm

case of the aviation-inspired BR03-92 Blue Ceramic

by Bell & Ross. The case is paired with a blue rubber strap or a heavy-duty canvas strap. A self-winding

mechanical movement drives the date and three-hand

time displays.

$4,500 * 888.307.7887, bellross.com


BELL & ROSSBELL & ROSSBELL & ROSSBELL & ROSSBELL & ROSSBELL & ROSSBELL & ROSSBELL & ROSSBELL & ROSSBELL & ROSS

➺ Deep blue high-tech ceramic forms the 42-mm

case of the aviation-inspired BR03-92 Blue Ceramic

by Bell & Ross. The case is paired with a blue rubber strap or a heavy-duty canvas strap. A self-winding

mechanical movement drives the date and three-hand

time displays.

$4,500 *

MAURICE LACROIXMAURICE LACROIXMAURICE LACROIXMAURICE LACROIXMAURICE LACROIXMAURICE LACROIXMAURICE LACROIXMAURICE LACROIXMAURICE LACROIXMAURICE LACROIXMAURICE LACROIXMAURICE LACROIXMAURICE LACROIXMAURICE LACROIXMAURICE LACROIXMAURICE LACROIX

➺ Maurice Lacroix’s Masterpiece Lune Rétrograde exudes contemporary spirit with its royal blue satin sunburst dial and array of clearly displayed complications—

phases of the moon, days of the week, retrograde

date and power reserve indication. The 43-mm steel

case holds automatic manufacture Caliber ML192,

which is adjusted in five positions.

$8,900 609.750.8800, 609.750.8800, 609.750.8800, 609.750.8800, mauricelacroix.commauricelacroix.commauricelacroix.commauricelacroix.commauricelacroix.commauricelacroix.commauricelacroix.commauricelacroix.com

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MAURICE LACROIXMAURICE LACROIXMAURICE LACROIX

CO_WJ26_096


CO_WJ26_001

WJ26_ritmo_1010_ee.indd 1 10/10/13 6:10 PM

GRAHAM

➺ Graham applied a blue finish to its Caliber G1769 manual-winding move-

ment and adorned it with diamond constellations to create the limited edition celestial flying tourbillon wristwatch, dubbed Geo.Graham

The Moon. The 46-mm rose gold case has a Milky Way–inspired sap-

phire bezel and a crown topped with a blue sapphire. Its spectacular retro-

grade moon phase display requires no adjustment for 122 years.

$280,000 * 213.622.1716, graham1695.com

SEIKO

➺ Seiko’s Sportura Kinetic Perpetual uses advanced

energy-management technology that puts the watch in sleep mode when it’s not being worn and returns it to the correct time and date when it’s picked up again. The

44.4-mm stainless steel case has a rose gold–colored hard

coating, and the bezel features a hard coating in blue. A

dark blue calfskin strap completes the package.

$850 * 800.782.2510, seikousa.com


SEIKOSEIKOSEIKOSEIKOSEIKOSEIKO

➺ Seiko’s Sportura Kinetic Perpetual uses advanced

energy-management technology that puts the watch in sleep mode when it’s not being worn and returns it to the correct time and date when it’s picked up again. The

44.4-mm stainless steel case has a rose gold–colored hard

coating, and the bezel features a hard coating in blue. A

dark blue calfskin strap completes the package.

$850 *

GRAHAMGRAHAMGRAHAMGRAHAMGRAHAMGRAHAMGRAHAMGRAHAM

➺ Graham applied a blue finish to its Caliber G1769 manual-winding move-

ment and adorned it with diamond constellations to create the limited edition celestial flying tourbillon wristwatch, dubbed Geo.Graham

The Moon. The 46-mm rose gold case has a Milky Way–inspired sap-

phire bezel and a crown topped with a blue sapphire. Its spectacular retro-


$280,000 * 213.622.1716, graham1695.com213.622.1716, graham1695.com213.622.1716, graham1695.com213.622.1716, graham1695.com213.622.1716, graham1695.com

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SEIKOSEIKO

technology that puts the watch in sleep mode when it’s not being worn and returns it to

The Moon. The 46-mm rose gold case has a Milky Way–inspired sap

phire bezel and a crown topped with a blue sapphire. Its spectacular retro


$280,000

CO_WJ26_098


P R O G R E S S T O S E I K O

the pure essentials of watchmaking,elevated to the level of art.

* Spron is a reg ist ered t rademark of Seiko Inst rument s Inc.　

© 2

013

SEIK

O W

ATCH

CO

RPO

RATI

ON

GRAND SEIKO. With our unique Spron* 530 alloy for the mainspring, the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 delivers precision of -3 to +5 seconds a day with

a power reserve of 55 hours. It is a masterpiece of traditional craftsmanship from Grand Seiko, where the pure essentials of watchmaking are elevated to

the level of art. grand-seiko.com

CO_WJ25_001

WJ25_seiko_0820_ee.indd 1 8/20/13 5:45 PM

tanding on the grounds of Bletchley Park, an English country estate that housed the Government Code and Cipher School—the headquarters for Allied codebreaking—during World War II—I felt the undeniable weight of history. At the height of the war, more than 9,000 people were involved in the codebreaking effort at

Bletchley Park. At the time, workers were unaware of the scope of their mission. Each was given a piece of the puzzle to work on, but they couldn’t see the bigger picture. They only knew that the work was important. Today, more than 70 years after the first codebreakers stepped onto the grounds of Bletchley Park, the whole world understands just how vital that work was. It is estimated that the codebreakers shortened the war by at least two years, saving millions of lives. Now, English watchmaker Bremont presents a new limited edition watch to commemorate the accomplishments of the British codebreakers and to remind us all of the remarkable successes of these wartime heroes.

Bremont’s new limited edition celeBrates england’s world war ii

codeBreaking effort and the heroes of Bletchley Park

By keith w. strandBerg

s

CO_WJ26_100

Bremont_WJ26.indd 100 10/10/13 12:17 PM


Bremont Codebreaker flyback chronograph in

hardened stainless steel with GMT and date

functions, $18,500

CO_WJ26_101


VITAL MISSION

The goal of the codebreakers at Bletchley Park was to crack intercepted Nazi mes-sages, encoded using Enigma machines, which worked something like a type-writer. A variety of electro-mechanical rotors were used to set the code each day, and then, when the typist pressed a key for a given letter, the Enigma substituted a different letter. The stepping action of the machine’s multiple rotors further complicated the code. The secret mes-sages were unscrambled on the receiv-ing end by an Enigma machine with the same rotor settings, which would simply reverse the coding process and print out the actual message.

A standard Enigma machine with three rotors was capable of approximately 158 trillion possible settings, and its coded output was considered virtually unbreakable. But the German Navy used four rotors or more, and the settings were changed every night at midnight,

multiplying the challenge for the British codebreakers. British head codebreaker Alan Turing developed the Bombe ma-chine, a non-programmable forerunner of the computer, to help deduce the day’s Enigma settings based on “cribs,” start-ing points found in stock phrases such as “message number,” “weather report” or “nothing significant to report,” which appeared over and over in German mes-sages. Hut 6, one of the wooden huts located on the grounds of the grand country estate at Bletchley Park, is where the messages were decoded. Hut 3 was where decoded messages were translated and analyzed.

Although thousands were employed at Bletchley Park during the war, their indus-trial-scale codebreaking, the technological breakthroughs that made it possible and the significance of the site itself remained closely guarded secrets until 30 years after the war. Today, the historical site is overseen by the Bletchley Park Trust and is open to the public. And since 2008,

renovation and restoration work has been going on at Bletchley Park with the goal of making the site into a world-class heritage and education center.

PROJECT CODEBREAKER

Following Bremont’s success with its HMS Victory limited edition, a watch that helped raise funds for the refurbishment of its namesake warship, Bremont found-ers Nick and Giles English hit upon the idea of producing a watch to benefit the restoration of Bletchley Park. The result is Bremont’s new Codebreaker watch, lim-ited to 240 examples in steel ($18,500) and 50 examples in rose gold ($33,995). Like the HMS Victory, it is inspired by British history, and also like the HMS Victory, it incorporates authentic artifacts.

The vintage-inspired flyback chrono-graph GMT watch contains metal from a German Enigma machine rotor, wood from the original floorboards of Hut 6 and paper from computer punch cards


From left--Alan Turing's Bombe machine; workers at Bletchley Park; an Enigma encoding machine; back of the Codebreaker in hardened stainless steel, displaying Caliber BE-83AR with handcrafted winding rotor in the style of a Bombe machine drum

CO_WJ26_102


CO_WJ26_103



used with the codebreaking computer. Fragments of this paper—placed under sapphire crystal on the watch’s caseside—form each limited edition number. There are only a handful of these punch cards left, and Bremont was able to secure five for this purpose. Iain Standen, CEO of the Bletchley Park Trust, comments, “Encapsulating these artifacts is a means to spread the word about Bletchley Park. There is a definite connection between Bletchley Park, which used mechanical means to break codes, and a mechanical watch company of the quality of Bremont.”

The watch was introduced at Bletchley Park in June, during a special event at-tended by alumni of Bletchley Park’s wartime workforce. The veterans recalled their experiences at Bletchley Park and how they came to work there. Some were chosen because of their language skills. Some told of signing the O�cial Secrets Act, which prohibited their discussing their work with anyone. All confirmed that they had no idea of the scope or impor-tance of Bletchley Park’s mission. Senior cryptanalyst Captain Jerry Roberts, MBE, sums up the significance of Bletchley Park this way: “In 1941, we were losing the war.

German submarines were downing our ships left, right and center. In another six months, it could have been the end for Britain and for Europe. Luckily, Bletchley Park got the support it needed.”

For Bremont co-founder Nick English, the Bletchley Park project has been a mov-ing experience. “It’s been more emotional being involved with the Bletchley Park Trust than any other partnership we have done because a lot of that history is still living,” he says. “How could you not be moved by these people, who were respon-sible for shortening the war by years? Bletchley Park is a living bit of history.”

WEIGHTY MATTERS

Limited editions are more popular and more plentiful than ever. The most interest-ing ones have a real reason for being—a meaningful partnership, unique materials or a fantastic story. Bremont’s Codebreaker has all of that. When you hold the watch in your hand, there is the weight of the metal case and the mechanical movement, but there is also the weight of history. And pre-serving that history for future generations through the restoration of Bletchley Park will be this limited edition’s lasting legacy. bremont.com

Wood from Bletchley Park floorboards in the crown of the Codebreaker and the watch's limited edition number made from computer punch cards

German submarines were downing our ships left, right and center. In another six months, it could have been the end for Britain and for Europe. Luckily, Bletchley Park got the support it needed.”

the Bletchley Park project has been a moving experience. “It’s been more emotional being involved with the Bletchley Park Trust than any other partnership we have done because a lot of that history is still living,” he says. “How could you not be moved by these people, who were responsible for shortening the war by years? Bletchley Park is a living bit of history.”

living,” he says. “How could you not be

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MICHEL PARMIGIANI BLENDS INFLUENCES FROM PAST AND PRESENT IN THE NEW OVALE COLLECTION

“You really can mix classic with contemporary and modern,” says Michel Parmigiani, discussing the launch of his namesake brand’s Ovale Collection last summer at the home of contemporary art dealer Enrico Navarra. At the sprawling compound—which could pass for a contemporary art mu-seum—in the hills outside of St. Tropez, France, Parmigiani Fleurier unveiled three new models—Ovale Pantographe, Ovale Tourbillon, and the Ovale Hebdomadaire, featuring a dial design by artist André Saraiva. Directly inspired by an antique pocket watch, Ovale expresses the synergy between Parmigiani’s legacy in restoring historical timepieces and his role as modern watchmaking master.

B Y L A U R I E K A H L E


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Parmigiani's new Ovale Pantographe in rose gold, $55,000

Vardon & Stedman pocket watch with pantographic hands, ca. 1800

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“Only by watching what was done in the past can you be inspired by it and implement it in new pieces,” says Jean-Marc Jacot, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier, noting that the extensive collection of the brand’s parent company, the Sandoz Family Foundation, offers a rich treasure

trove to draw upon. The piece that pro-vided the impetus for Ovale is a signed 1800 pocket watch produced by English jewelers Vardon and Stedman. The his-torical watch is noteworthy not only for its unusual oval shape but, more signifi-cantly, for its telescopic pantograph-style hands, which expand and contract to fol-

low the contours of the elliptical case as they traverse the dial.

The Ovale Pantographe ($55,000) may look familiar since an early prototype was presented in 2011 at a New York

exhibition of mechanical mas-terpieces from the collection

of the Edouard and Maurice Sandoz Foundation. But

miniaturizing the panto-graphic system within the smaller, more restrictive confines of a wristwatch proved more challeng-ing than it appeared, says Parmigiani, noting

that it took two years to resolve a number of is-sues, the most problematic of which involved

generating and transmitting energy given the constant friction of the tele-

scopic hands. “As a pocket watch with a

larger mechanism, it is simpler; there is less risk,”

he explains. “This is more di�cult. The new system is

similar to the original but dif-ferent—di�erent calculations, measurements and materials.”

A pantograph is a device originally used for copying images—although, today, the form of interlinked bars that expand and contract can be found in myriad ap-plications from scissor lifts to bathroom mirrors. The Ovale Pantographe uses a central cam system to move the hands and control their elongation and contraction so that legibility is not an issue. One of the most daunting aspects of producing the timepiece is the production and assembly of the hands, which are made from tiny laser-cut segments of blued titanium. The color is achieved by heating the metal to more than 550°C. State-of-the-art laser

cutting technology and a year of testing at the Swiss Federal Institute of Technol-ogy in Lausanne were required to achieve the necessary high-precision cutting to the nearest 2–4 micrometers. The riveted assembly is completed by hand by a watchmaker who uses manual and audi-tory senses to determine when the rivet material has been altered and the joint is secured. Then, every intersection in the structure must be painstakingly adjusted so that the telescoping action slides freely.

“ ONLY BY WATCHING WHAT WAS DONE IN THE PAST CAN YOU BE INSPIRED BY IT AND IMPLEMENT IT IN NEW PIECES.”

— J E A N - M A R C J A C O T

Family Foundation, offers a rich treasure cantly, for its telescopic pantograph-style hands, which expand and contract to fol

low the contours of the elliptical case as they traverse the dial.

The Ovale Pantographe ($55,000) may look familiar since an early prototype was presented in 2011 at a New York

exhibition of mechanical masterpieces from the collection

of the Edouard and Maurice Sandoz Foundation. But

miniaturizing the pantographic system within the smaller, more restrictive confines of a wristwatch proved more challenging than it appeared, says Parmigiani, noting

that it took two

sues, the most problematic of which involved

transmitting energy given the constant


Three views of the antique Vardon & Stedman piece,

restored by Parmigiani

The Ovale Pantographe

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WWW.PERRELET.COM

TURBINE CHRONO, A3036/1

DOUBLE ROTOR TECHNOLOGY

3230 West Commercial Blvd., S-160Fort Lauderdale, FL. 33309

954.575.7980 • [email protected]

H5 Group Corp.

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Parmigiani Fleurier added a module that controls the retractable hands to the manually wound Caliber PF110, its first movement, to create the PF111 with an eight-day power reserve. Available in 18-karat rose gold or white gold, the 45-by-37.6-mm case was carefully designed to bring a masculine sensibility to the inherently feminine shape. Parmigiani, who is known for his strict attention to perfectly balanced, proportional and ergo-nomic forms, experimented with the oval shape, which came to resemble the arc of a basket handle rather than a pure ellipse. Surfaces were beveled to add sharp edges and angles and enhance its masculine ap-peal. The white dial is embellished with a barleycorn pattern of alternating straight and curving lines. “It was important that this new collection be in line with the rest of the family, so everything—the hands,

the shape, the ergonomics, the dial struc-ture—follows the codes of the brand,” says Jacot, who adds that the case is wearable and comfortable for women as well as men.

The tonneau-shaped PF501 movement with an uncommon 30-second tourbillon powers the rose gold Ovale Tourbillon ($235,000), limited to 60 pieces—30 with a black mother-of-pearl dial and 30 with a white gold dial decorated with silvered Côtes de Genève. The tourbillon, which completes two revolutions per minute, rather than the typical one, is said to deliver heightened timekeeping performance. The round tourbillon cage is on full display at 6, and the left side of the dial has an opening that reveals the movement below and adds circular shapes to the elliptical display.

The third piece in the Ovale trilogy is the Hebdomadaire ($76,000) with dial art by the aforementioned Saraiva, who

was introduced to the brand by Navarra, a longtime friend of Jacot’s. Saraiva is a street artist and nightclub owner, better known simply as André or Monsieur A. Limited to just 10 pieces, the watch’s dial is embellished with colorful eyes at 3 and 9, intended to evoke the Egyptian Eye of Horus. At 12 is the face of the winking, smiling character popularized by André’s Paris street gra¤ti. Part of the power re-serve display forms an arcing grin. Under the whimsical dial beats a hand-finished solid gold PF110 movement. Wearers of this Ovale will gain instant complimentary admission to Saraiva’s Le Baron night-clubs in New York, Paris, London, Shang-hai and Tokyo. “It might shock certain people that we agreed to do this project,” says Parmigiani, who draws a parallel between his systematic pursuit of balance and equilibrium and an artist’s technique, both of which often go undetected by ad-mirers. “You’re not processing the calcula-tions and proportions, you just sense that it’s correct and visually pleasing.”

André, who says he instantly recognized the aesthetic balance of Parmigiani’s designs, also has an appreciation for the engineering side of watchmaking as well as the artistry involved. “When I met the Parmigiani team, they were the nicest peo-ple, like a family,” says André who appreci-ated being given the freedom to do what he wanted. “They are artisans who produce only 5,000 watches per year. In this world where everything is overproduced, they have something rare and exclusive.”

parmigiani.ch

“ IN THIS WORLD WHERE EVERYTHING IS OVERPRODUCED, [PARMIGIANI HAS] SOMETHING RARE AND EXCLUSIVE.”

— A N D R É S A R A I V A

Ovale Hebdomadaire, also known as the Monsieur A, $76,000

The Ovale Tourbillon in two versions, each $235,000


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HEN THE FINAL HAMMER FELL ON SEPTEMBER 28

IN MONACO, THE FIFTH EDITION OF THE ONLY

WATCH AUCTION—a biennial sale created to raise

funds for medical research on Duchenne muscular

dystrophy—had achieved a new record of €5,066,000

($6,857,844). No previous Only Watch auction has earned as much,

and 100 percent of proceeds go directly to research. The sale is jointly

organized by the Association Monegasque Contre les Myopathies

(AMM), Antiquorum Auctioneers and the Monaco Yacht Show, and it

benefits from the donation of one-of-a-kind watches from some of

the world’s top makers. One of these, Patek Philippe, also set a record

during the sale: the sporty Ref. 5004T that it contributed brought

€2.95 million, the highest price ever attained for a modern wrist-

watch at auction. AMM president and Only Watch founder Luc

Pettavino credits the sale’s success to the generosity of all involved.

He says, “Only Watch is a special project that implies incredible coop-

eration and contributions made with a benevolent state of mind. It’s all

about a group of people united to give hope, and the exceptional

amount realized for Only Watch 2013 is a group effort of all the gen-

erous participants involved.” onlywatch.com


WHEN THE CAUSE IS VITAL RESEARCH INTO A DEBILITATING DISEASE, THE EFFECT IS RECORD-SETTING GENEROSITY

($6,857,844). No previous Only Watch auction has earned as mu

and 100 percent of proceeds go directly to research. The sale is jointly

organized by the Association Monegasque Contre les Myopa

(AMM), Antiquorum Auc

benefits from the donation of one-of-a-kind watches from some of

the world’s top makers. One of these, Patek Philippe, also set a record

during the sale: the sporty Ref. 5004T that it contributed brought

W

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MAKER:

Richard Mille

MODEL: Tourbillon Prototype Yohan Blake for Only Watch

Prototype magnesium alloy watch worn by runner Yohan Blake at the 2012 London Olympics and the Diamond League competition in Lausanne; skeletonized titanium movement with tourbillon

WISH PRICE: €450,000–€500,000

SOLD €350,000

($473,795)

LOT NO.

27

MAKER: Patek Philippe

MODEL: Ref. 5004T

Unique 36.7-mm split-sec-onds chronograph wrist-watch in polished titanium with perpetual calendar functions and hand-guilloché dial; mechanical movement, Caliber CHR 27-70 PS Q, with Geneva Seal

WISH PRICE: €400,000–€600,000

LOT NO.

25

SOLD ¤2,950,000

($3,993,415)

MAKER: Laurent FerrierMODEL: Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Spirale for Only Watch

Unique 41-mm stainless steel watch with grand feu enamel dial; mechanical movement, Caliber LF 619.01, with 100-hour power reserve and tourbillon regulator with two balance springs visible on the back

WISH PRICE: €100,000–€120,000

LOT NO.

21

SOLD ¤130,000

($175,981)

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Maker: BreguetModel: Classique Chronograph Openwork for Only Watch

Unique 18-karat gold chro-nograph with skeletonized dial; skeletonized signed and numbered movement, Caliber 533.2 SQ

Wish Price: €100,000–€120,000

€120,000($162,444)S

old

lot No.

04


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MAKER: HublotMODEL: Red’N’Black Skeleton Tourbillon for Only Watch

Unique 45-mm black ceramic watch with red ceramic bezel; skeleton-ized tourbillon manufac-ture movement, Caliber MHUB6010.H1.1, with five-day power reserve

WISH PRICE: €80,000–€110,000

WISH PRICE: €250,000–€300,000

MAKER:

DeWitt

Unique 43-mm 18-karat white gold watch with 3.7 carats of brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds; skeletonized DeWitt movement, Caliber DW8028s, with tourbillon

MODEL: Twenty-8-Eight High Jewellery Skeleton Tourbillon for Only Watch

SOLD €120,000

($162,444)

LOT NO.

13

WISH PRICE: €90,000–€120,000

MAKER: Vacheron Constantin

Unique platinum watch with champlevé enamel dial and world time indication; self-winding Vacheron Constantin movement, Caliber 2460WT, with Geneva Seal

MODEL: Patrimony Traditionelle World Time for Only Watch

SOLD €100,000

($135,370)

LOT NO.

31

€100,000($135,370)S

OLD

LOT NO.

17

MAKER: Christophe ClaretMODEL: X-TREM-1 Pinball for Only Watch

Unique 18-karat white gold and anodized alu-minum watch with flying tourbillon and floating-sphere time indication; mechanical movement, Caliber FLY11, with dual spring barrels powering two separate gear trains

WISH PRICE: €230,000–€300,000

€100,000($135,370)S

OLD

LOT NO.

07

CO_WJ26_115


MAKER: De BethuneMODEL: DB28 Skybridge MC for Only Watch

Unique 45-mm platinum and white gold watch with floating lugs and diamond-set blued titanium dial; mechanical move-ment, Caliber DB2105

WISH PRICE: €100,000–€130,000

€95,000($128,602)S

OLD

LOT NO.

11


CO_WJ26_116


WISH PRICE: €150,000–€200,000

MAKER:

Chanel

Unique 18-karat white gold watch with ceramic bezel and 2.2 carats of diamonds; mechanical movement, developed by Renaud et Papi, with camellia-motif tourbillon

MODEL: Première Flying Tourbillon for Only Watch

SOLD €75,000

($101,528)

LOT NO.

05WISH PRICE: €120,000–€160,000

MAKER:

Roger Dubuis

Unique 44-mm rose gold watch with open dial revealing a flying tourbillon and a micro-rotor; self-winding mechanical movement, Caliber RD520, with Geneva Seal

MODEL:

La Monegasque for Only WatchSOLD €70,000

($94,759)

LOT NO.

28

WISH PRICE: €120,000–€160,000

MAKER:

Chopard

Unique platinum watch with tourbillon regulator and hand-decorated dial; chronometer movement, Caliber 02.17-L

MODEL: L.U.C Tourbillon Only Watch 2013 Edition

SOLD €65,000

($87,991)

LOT NO.

06WISH PRICE: €55,000–€80,000

MAKER: Julien Coudray 1518

Unique 39-mm 18-karat white gold watch with enamel dial; mechanical move-ment, Caliber 1528, in 18-karat white gold engraved with a young child’s drawing

MODEL: Manufactura 1528 Masterpiece for Only Watch

SOLD €60,000

($81,222)

LOT NO.

20

CO_WJ26_117


MAKER: Van Cleef & ArpelsMODEL: Lady Arpels Une Journée à Monaco for Only Watch

Unique 38-mm 18-karat white gold watch with 2.75 carats of diamonds and rotating 24-hour disc of lapis lazuli and white gold figurines on a turquoise and mother-of-pearl dial; self-winding movement based on Piaget 800P

WISH PRICE: €80,000–€100,000

€60,000($81,222)S

OLD

LOT NO.

32


CO_WJ26_118


The timepiece chosen for an elite unit of the German Navy must fulfill extraordinary requirements.

Seebataillon GMT

This is why in cooperation with the soldiers of the upcoming “Seebataillon” (Marine Battalion),

an extremely robust watch with a second time zone has been developed that both in design and

functionality is well-equipped for every mission to be undertaken by this new unit of the German Navy

– whether on land, see or in the air. And it’s also why this new watch bears their name: The Seebataillon GMT.

For more information please contact:

Mühle-Glashütte USA 727-896-8453 www.muehle-glashuette.de• •

E.D. Marshall Jewelers Scottsdale, AZ | Feldmar Watch Co. Los Angeles, CA | Partita Custom Design San Francisco, CA | Right Time Denver & Highlands Ranch, CO Exquisite Timepieces Naples, FL | Old Northeast Jewelers St. Pete & Tampa, FL | Bechtel Jewelers West Palm Beach, FL | Little Treasury Jewelers Gambrills, MD

Continental Diamond St. Louis Park, MN | Joseph Edwards New York, NY | Martin Pulli Phliadelphia, PA | Marvin Scott & Co. Yardley, PAJack Ryan Fine Jewelry Austin, TX | Timeless Luxury Watches Frisco, TX | Fox’s Gem Shop Seattle, WA

C

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Muhle_iW_Seebataillon_Dec2013.pdf 1 9/30/2013 10:24:37 AM

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WISH PRICE: €20,000–€30,000

MAKER:

Corum

Unique titanium watch with hand-engraved 18-karat rose gold caseside and linear power reserve indication; mechanical movement, Caliber CO 107, with 72-hour power reserve

MODEL:

Ti-Bridge Power Reserve for Only Watch

SOLD €55,000

($74,454)

LOT NO.

09

WISH PRICE: €40,000–€160,000

MAKER:

Zenith

Prototype 45.5-mm steel flyback chronograph used in the testing and development of Felix Baumgartner’s supersonic space jump watch; self-winding El Primero movement, Caliber 4057B

MODEL: Felix Baumgartner Stratos Prototype for Only Watch

SOLD €45,000

($60,917)

LOT NO.

33

MAKER: Backes & StraussMODEL: Victoria Princess Red Heart for Only Watch

Unique piece with 1.5 car-ats of ideal-cut diamonds and 0.6 carats of rubies in 18-karat rose gold; quartz movement

WISH PRICE: €50,000–€75,000

€55,000($74,454)S

OLD

LOT NO.

01

MAKER: Ulysse NardinMODEL: Marine Chronometer Manufacture for Only Watch

Unique 43-mm 18-karat gold watch with grand feu enamel dial; self-winding movement, Caliber UN-118, with patented DIAMonSIL escapement and silicon hairspring

WISH PRICE: €30,000–€40,000

LOT NO.

30

SOLD €45,000

($60,917)

CO_WJ26_120


For information : (727) 202-3262

www.meistersinger.net

PangaeaDay

Date

Automatic

French Riviera Jewelers [Coral Gables, FL]; Old Northeast Jewelers [St. Petersburg & Tampa, FL]; Exquisite Timepieces [Naples, FL];Orlando Watch Company [Winter Park, FL]; Bassano Jewelry [New York, NY]; Little Treasury Jewelers [Gambrills, MD];

Martin Pulli Fine Jewelry and Watches [Philadelphia, PA]; Partita Custom Design Jewelry [San Francisco, CA]

C

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CM

MY

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MeisterSinger_WatchJournal_Pangaea_Dec2013.pdf 1 9/30/2013 11:09:18 AM

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WISH PRICE: €22,000–€32,000

MAKER:

Chronoswiss

Unique 44-mm 18-karat rose gold watch with 21-part case and cloisonné-enam-eled guilloché dial; modified ETA 6498 movement

MODEL:

The Three Apes for Only Watch

SOLD €42,000

($56,855)

LOT NO.

08

WISH PRICE: €40,000–€45,000

MAKER: Cyrus

Unique titanium watch with seven-day power reserve, indicated by sliding cylinders; manufacture movement, Caliber 7778, developed in collaboration with Jean-François Mojon

MODEL: Kambys for Only Watch

SOLD €40,000

($54,148)

LOT NO.

10

MAKER: PiagetMODEL: Altiplano for Only Watch

Unique 38-mm ultra-thin 18-karat white gold watch with black PVD; skeletonized self-winding manufacture movement, Caliber 1200S, with black PVD

WISH PRICE: €40,000–€60,000

€42,000($56,855)S

OLD

LOT NO.

26

MAKER: BlancpainMODEL: Women Collection for Only Watch

Unique white gold watch with 0.79 carats of diamonds and mother-of-pearl marquetry dial; self-winding movement, Caliber 1153

WISH PRICE: €40,000–€60,000

€40,000($54,148)S

OLD

LOT NO.

03


CO_WJ26_122


BEVERLY HILLS, CA - Westime LA JOLLA, CA - Westime LOS ANGELES, CA - Westime DENVER, CO - Oster JewelersGREENWICH, CT - Manfredi Jewels BOCA RATON, FL - Les Bijoux NAPLES, FL - Exquisite Timepiece MIAMI, FL - Vault

ENGLEWOOD, NJ - Timepiece Collection NEW YORK, NY - Cellini (Madison Av.) NEW YORK, NY - Cellini (Waldorf Astoria H.) ARUBA, WI - Gemani ST. BARTH, WI - Carat ST. MARTIN, WI - Ballerina ST. THOMAS, VI - Royal Caribbean

CO_WJ26_001

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MAKER: BELL & ROSSMODEL: Set of six BR01 Instrument watches for Only Watch

Unique collector’s box of six 46-mm PVD-coated watches with orange dial accents; mechanical movements with ETA base

SOLD: €32,000 ($43,318) WISH PRICE: €24,000–€32,000

MAKER: GIRARD-PERREGAUXMODEL: Chrono Hawk for Only Watch

Unique 44-mm ceramic and palladium chronograph with tex-tured dial; Girard-Perregaux movement, Caliber GP03300

SOLD: €32,000 ($43,318) WISH PRICE: €14,000–€18,000

MAKER: MAURICE LACROIXMODEL: Masterpiece Seconde Mysterieuse Pièce Unique for Only Watch

Unique 43-mm stainless steel watch with ADLC treatment and mystery seconds display; self-winding manufacture move-ment, Caliber ML215

SOLD: €30,000 ($40,611) WISH PRICE: €15,000–€20,000

MAKER: JAQUET DROZMODEL: The Loving Butterfly for Only Watch

Unique 43-mm 18-karat gold watch with grand feu enamel dial and cloisonné enamel appliqué; self-winding Jaquet Droz movement, Caliber 2653, with 68-hour power reserve

SOLD: €27,000 ($36,550) WISH PRICE: €30,000–€50,000

MAKER: HARRY WINSTONMODEL: Midnight Big Date for Only Watch

Unique 42-mm 18-karat rose gold watch with a brilliant-cut pink diamond at 6; mechanical movement, Caliber HW1018, with 72-hour power reserve

SOLD: €25,000 ($33,843) WISH PRICE: €25,000–€35,000

MAKER: MONTBLANCMODEL: Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours for Monaco

Unique monopusher chronograph with turning-disc indica-tions; self-winding manufacture movement, Caliber MB R220, with 72-hour power reserve

SOLD: €17,000 ($23,013) WISH PRICE: €15,000–€20,000

MAKER: DELACOURMODEL: Red Dots

Unique titanium chronograph with black and red case deco-ration; self-winding chronograph movement, Caliber DC 280

SOLD: €16,000 ($21,659) WISH PRICE: €10,000–€14,000

MAKER: Frédérique ConstantMODEL: Lady Automatic Double Heart Beat watch and jewelry set for Only Watch

Unique 34-mm 18-karat rose gold watch with open dial and 1.504 carats of diamonds; self-winding movement, Caliber FC-310; coordinating bracelet, pendant and earrings

SOLD: €13,000 ($17,598) WISH PRICE: €12,000–€16,000

MAKER: IkepodMODEL: Horizon for Only Watch

Unique 44-mm titanium watch with perforated dial; self-winding movement, Caliber ETA 2892

SOLD: €7,000 ($9,476) WISH PRICE: €5,000–€8,000

See the complete auction catalog at antiquorum.com

LOT NO.

02

LOT NO.

15

LOT NO.

23

LOT NO.

19

LOT NO.

16

LOT NO.

24

LOT NO.

12

LOT NO.

14

LOT NO.

18

MAKER: Louis VuittonMODEL: Tambour Spin Time Regatta for Only Watch

Unique 45.5-mm 18-karat rose gold chro-nograph with five-minute countdown function and dial designed by Paul Pettavino; self-winding manufacture movement, Caliber LV156

WISH PRICE: €60,000–€80,000

€40,000($54,148)S

OLD

LOT NO.

22

MAKER: Armin StromMODEL: One Week Skeleton Water for Only Watch

Unique 43.4-mm 18-karat white gold watch with off-center time display; skeletonized mechanical movement, Caliber ARM09, with seven-day power reserve

WISH PRICE: €35,000–€40,000

€32,000($43,318)S

OLD

LOT NO.

29


CO_WJ26_124


www.luminox.com

facebook.com/Luminox

Field Valjoux Automatic Chronograph Series No. 1861 .BO: 48mm, black PVD plated stainless steel case, screw case back and screw down crown, antirefl ective sapphire crystal, water resistant to 100 meters, genuine black buffalo leather strap with gray contrast stitching and signature buckle, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made. Preferred timepiece of automotive enthusiasts.

CO_WJ26_001

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O F F I C I N E P A N E R A I O U T P O S T S S P A N T H E C O N T I N E N T A S T H E B R A N D M A R K S T H E O P E N I N G O F I T S 1 0 T H U S B O U T I Q U E

CO_WJ26_126

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O F F I C I N E P A N E R A I O U T P O S T S S P A N T H E C O N T I N E N T A S T H E B R A N D M A R K S T H E O P E N I N G O F I T S 1 0 T H U S B O U T I Q U E

B y M a r i e A . P i c o n

Quarterback Drew Brees of the New Orleans Saints and world champion sailor JJ Fetter were just two of the locals who crowded into the Panerai boutique in picturesque La Jolla, Calif., on a balmy mid-summer evening this past July to view new watches from Panerai’s 2013 collection, enjoy Italian-inspired cocktails and mingle with Panerai enthusiasts from around the region. Also on display was a selection of historical Panerai pieces from the private collection of Vahid Moradi, the jewelry store owner and longtime Panerai retailer who part-nered with Panerai to open the La Jolla boutique in 2012.

That memorable evening was just one of many such events that are tak-ing place throughout the year and around the country as Panerai expands its US boutique network. It’s a project that began eight years ago with the opening of the brand’s first US boutique in Beverly Hills and achieved a high point last year with the inauguration of three new boutiques. This fall, Panerai achieves another notable milestone with the opening of its 10th retail boutique—in Aspen, Colorado—just ahead of the holiday shopping season.


La Jolla: Prospect Street

Aspen: Hyman AvenueDallas: NorthPark Center

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in their communities, in charitable initiatives and, of course, in providing world-class service to their customers. In line with the brand’s maritime heritage, many of the stories have to do with sailing. Beverly Hills–based Warrick recounts one of these: “We hosted a day of sailing for VIP collectors with South African explorer Mike Horn, who brought his boat, Pangaea, to the West Coast as part of a seven-continent en-vironmental expedition, sponsored by Panerai. We sailed up the coast while Mike told us of his wild adventures all over the world.” Gaston Pettinaroli of the Palm Beach boutique o�ers another example: “Shortly after opening our doors in 2011, we co-hosted a wonderful cruise on a vintage yacht, along with Panerai’s charity of record, Sailing Heals, to

honor patients and caregivers as well as doctors, nurses and the CEO of a local hospital, the Good Samaritan Medical Center. The sailing outing was catered with wonderful Ital-ian specialties, and all of our guests had a marvelous time.”

In the end, some of the most memorable stories come from helping customers to find the perfect watch. “A cus-tomer from Venezuela came in a few weeks ago looking for a particular model, and we were pleased to have it in stock

“The Boca Raton boutique is a mecca for Panerai collectors. Whenever we host an event, guests fly in from far-away locations to join us.”

— E m e r a l d N o g u e r a , B o c a R a t o n b o u t i q u e

Far from cookie-cutter copies of each other, Panerai’s US boutiques are all unique. They are all designed to reflect the style and the heritage of the historical brand—which traces its roots to Italy, to military diving and to the sea—but each has its own distinguishing features, and each attracts its own particular clientele. The La Jolla location is the first in the US to have a watchmaker on sta� and a state-of-the-art workshop in house, o�ering on-site maintenance and repair service. The new Aspen boutique, housed in a landmark building at 400 Hyman Avenue, is the first two-story build-out undertaken as part of the boutique program. And the boutique in Florida’s exclusive Bal Harbour Shops employs a bilingual sta� and welcomes many loyal clients from Latin America. The Beverly Hills boutique is plugged in to the Hollywood scene—where A-listers are routinely spotted wearing Panerais and Chad Warrick, who heads the bou-tique, is something of a local celebrity in his own right; the New York and Las Vegas locations attract a diverse inter-national clientele; the big state of Texas has the spacious Dallas boutique, which debuted last year as the largest in the country; and the Palm Beach boutique appeals to locals with its sportive-elegant vibe, VIP lounge and in-store library.

The deeper you delve into Panerai’s US boutiques, the more engrossing the stories are. The boutiques are involved

Palm Beach: Worth Avenue

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Boca Raton: Mizner Park

Bal Harbour: Bal Harbour Shops

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since all Panerai watches are limited production.” says Jean-Bernard Diez of the Bal Harbour boutique. “When we showed it to him, the customer and his wife were overwhelmed with joy. He told us the watch was a replacement for an identical one that had been ‘stolen’ by his boss, who noticed the watch on his wrist, asked to try it on, and then didn’t want to return it. The boss o�ered him a bonus so that he could replace the watch, but because limited edition Panerais can be hard to come by, the customer was anxious about his chances of ever finding the same one again. Discovering it in Bal Harbour was an emotional moment for him, and to help him celebrate, we o�ered him a beautiful bottle of Italian Prosecco!”

For Veruska Molitor of the New York City boutique, help-ing one customer to choose her first Panerai turned out to be an unforgettable moment. She says, “Recently, a fam-ily of five from the Domican Republic visited our boutique. Both parents and their two sons were all wearing Panerai

watches, and they had come to pick out a Panerai for the youngest—a daughter—for her high school graduation. They made a few selections, and she tried on all of them. They collectively decided on a Radiomir (PAM 337) as her gift. It was beautiful to see the pride the young woman felt to become part of the Panerai family.”

With the 10th US boutique opening its doors, the Panerai family is one that has plenty of room to grow.panerai.com

“Wonderful friendships have been created in our boutique, and clients tell us that a stop here is a ‘must’ when they are in New York.” — V e r u s k a M o l i t o r , N e w Y o r k b o u t i q u e

New York: Madison Avenue

Beverly Hills: Brighton Way

Larry Katz, Vahid Moradi, Rafael Alvarez, Drew Brees and Jon Halberg at the La Jolla boutique

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Umberto Nobile (Lauro, Avellino 1885 – Rome 1978) was one of the key fi gures in the history of fl ight. A General in the Italian Royal Air Force, Nobile designed airships all over the world, but he is mostly known for having fl own across the North Pole twice. The fi rst time it was at the request of Norway in 1926 with the airship NORGE, which he designed and commanded. The second time it was in 1928 on an entirely Italian expe-dition aboard the airship ITALIA. This last expedition ended drammatically when the ITALIA crashed into the ice due to adverse metereological conditions, and the survivors were rescued after forty-eight days spent in the legendary “Red Tent.” The event and the subsequent fi ery controver-sy tarnished Nobile’s fame, who after being accused by the fascist regime decided to volantarily go into exile.After the fall of Fascism in Italy in July of 1943, he moved back to Italy defi nitively and he was also elected as an independent representative in the Constituent Assembly of Italy. His role in history and his accomplishments have been re-evaluated over the years and Nobile has been recognized for what he really was: a genius engineer, an able aviator, and an untiring explorer. Talent, inventiveness, and passion were the key personality traits of Nobile and combined with the fact that this extraordinary individual was from the Italian hinterland irresistibly moved Giuliano Mazzuoli to crea-te a pen in his honor. The NOBILE ITALIA, synthesis of contemporary creativity and the high quality of the materials used commemorate this Italian genius. The exclusive

shape inspired by the airship ITALIA increases the pleasure and functionality of this writing instrument. The NOBILE ITALIA is born from the talent of Italian craftsmans. It is an original product with a modern design whose inspiration comes from a glorious past. The care taken in the details and the selection of the materials make NOBILE ITALIA a collector’s pen, but because of the pleasure of the feel of its form, grip, and decisive writing stroke, it would be unfor-giveable to not make “daily use” of the pen.

www.mazzuoli.it

Colonel Umberto Nobile and his little dog “Titina”

The “Red Tent”

1928 Italia parked at Vadsö

For additional info contact JHD at: brom [email protected] or +1 (617) 792-4570

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G A L A E V E N I N GMore than 250 guests gathered under the roof of the historic opera house, which gained wide acclaim in the 19th cen-tury around the same time that Jaeger-LeCoultre’s founding father, Antoine LeCoultre,

established his workshop in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. Guests of honor included actress Diane Kruger, a friend of the brand and the face of its collections for women; film-maker Carmen Chaplin, also a friend of the brand; Venice

International Film Festival director Alberto Barbera and numerous stars of the world-wide cinema. Guests enjoyed the rare opportunity of viewing 10 masterpieces from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Hybris Mechanica Collection, theatri-cally displayed in vitrines at the perimeter of an enormous model gear wheel in one of the opera house’s lavish ballrooms.

EXTRAORDINARY PIECESOf course, a number of special watches marked the milestone anniversary. The three mechani-cal masterpieces that make up the Jubilee Collection—the Master Ultra Thin Jubilee, the Master Grand Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee, and the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee—com-bine 21st-century advancements with aesthetics and finishes inspired by pieces from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s early history. The Master Ultra Thin Jubilee, inspired by a slim and mod-ern looking Jaeger-LeCoultre pocket watch from 1907, is a particularly salient example.

Swiss watch manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre inter-rupted its busy and expanding schedule of worldwide film festival sponsorships—if only briefly—to celebrate its 180th anniversary in high style. The main event was a glittering gala held on September 2 at Venice’s spectacular Teatro La Fenice opera house during the 70th Venice International Film Festival, which was the ninth Venice film festival to be supported by Jaeger-LeCoultre, as o�cial partner.

WATCH JOURNAL REVIEWBRIEF INTERRUPTION | JAEGER-LECOULTRE CELEBRATES 180 YEARS OF FINE WATCHMAKING

TEXT BY: MARIE A. PICON

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EACH OF THESE CREATIONS HAS A ROLEIN JAEGER-LECOULTRE’S MISSION OF ADVANCING HOROLOGY WHILE PRESERVING AND TRANSMITTING THE TRADITIONS OF SWISS WATCHMAKING.

Teatro La Fenice set for a gala evening

Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Daniel Riedo and actress Diane Kruger at the 180th anniversary gala

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The Master Grand Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee brings an original tourbillon mechanism to the maker’s long tradition of creating perpetual calendar timepieces. The flying tourbillon, with its expanding and contracting cylindrical balance spring apparently suspended in mid-air, is part of the new automatic winding Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 985, comprising 431 components. The Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 amazes with its flying tourbillon, which holds a spherical hairspring—developed as an improvement upon the earlier and equally amazing cylindrical balance spring. The watch also incor-porates a monopusher chrono-graph with a digital, instanta-neous jumping minutes display.

The watchmaker also took the opportunity to unveil an entirely new piece, exhibiting outstand-ing artistry and showcasing the technique of reverse miniature

enameling. The Master Grand Tourbillon Enamel features an engraved and enameled scene of cranes and bamboo, which is partially rendered on the inside of the sapphire crystal. The watch’s outstanding workman-ship includes intricate case

engraving and the setting of the case with baguette diamonds.

Each of these creations has a role in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mission of advancing horology while preserving and transmit-ting the traditions of Swiss watchmaking. In the words

of recently appointed Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Daniel Riedo, who spoke for the first time at a major event since taking his new post, “We will work to ensure that Jaeger-LeCoultre’s future is as impressive as its past.”jaeger-lecoultre.com

G O I N G FO R G LO RY

Jaeger-LeCoultre presented its Glory to the Filmmaker award for 2013 to Ettore Scola, a master of Italian cinema, as part of its sponsorship of the 70th Venice International Film Festival. Scola’s long career at the forefront of Italian cinema has produced a number of award-winning works. His new film, Che strano chiamarsi Federico!, a tribute to Federico Fellini, made its world premiere at this year’s festival. Jaeger-LeCoultre honored Scola with a specially engraved Reverso watch, commemo-rating his achievement.

G O I N G FO R G LO RY

Jaeger-LeCoultre presented its Glory to the Filmmaker award for 2013 to Ettore Scola, a master of Italian cinema, as part of its sponsorship of the 70th Venice International Film Festival. Scola’s long career at the forefront of Italian cinema has produced a number of award-winning works. His new film, strano chiamarsi Federico!a tribute to Federico Fellini, made its world premiere at this year’s festival. Jaeger-LeCoultre honored Scola with a specially engraved Reverso watch, commemorating his achievement.

neous jumping minutes display.The watchmaker also took the

opportunity to unveil an entirely

ing artistry and showcasing the

ship includes intricate case watchmaking. In the words

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Hybris Mechanica masterpieces on

display at Teatro La Fenice

Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee (left), price upon request, and the Master Ultra Thin Jubilee, $17,800

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TheBlendFragrance.com

E S T A B L I S H E D 1 9 8 4

A NEW WAY TO EXPERIENCE FRAGRANCE

Ten unique scents that blend together to create an infinite number of custom fragrances.

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+EVENT WATCH

EVENT REPORT | WHO’S DOING WHAT, WHERE AND WHY IN THE WATCH INDUSTRY

CHALLENGING DEPTHSFree diver and Ball Watch Company ambassador Guillaume Néry set a new con-stant weight diving record this summer by achieving a depth of 124 meters during a 3-minute, 28-second dive. His record-breaking performance took place in Crete and brings Néry one step closer to beating the current world record of 126 meters set by Alexey Molchanov in November 2011. Néry wears the Ball Engineer Master II Diver Worldtime, an automatic-winding dive watch created in his honor. Water-resis-tant to 300 meters, shock-resistant to 5,000 Gs and antimagnetic to 4,800 A/m, the 45-mm timepiece uses Ball’s self-illuminating micro gas tubes to impart exceptional legibility to the hands and markers in low-light conditions—including at 124 meters below the surface. 727.896.4278, ballwatch.com

FIELD DAYNew York Jets quarterback Mark Sanchez sat down with Arizona Cardinals’ coach Bruce Arians, Fox Sports’ Jay Glazer and others for a live panel discussion during the 11th Annual NFL All Access event at the Rose Bowl in Pasadena. While Glazer wore a Ritmo Mundo wristwatch, Sanchez sported a blue Reflex, a snap-on bracelet watch that is part of the Ritmo family. The California-based watch company was on the field to greet friends and fans and display a selection of its watches. Other attractions in-cluded locker-room tours and a dinner catered by celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck. 866.RITMO.US, ritmomundo.com

Competitive sailing on Narragansett Bay and the Panerai

PAM 000, awarded to the winner of the Museum of

Yachting Classic Yacht Regatta

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Néry wearing the Ball Engineer Master II Diver Worldtime, $2,799

Mark Sanchez

SEASON FINALEThe North American Circuit of this year’s Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge (PCYC) crossed the finish line on Labor Day weekend, with the conclusion of its final sponsored regatta of the season, the Museum of Yacht-ing Classic Yacht Regatta in Newport, Rhode Island. Nearly 50 classic sailing yachts competed under wind conditions that made for exciting tactical sailing on Narragansett Bay. O�cine Panerai presented a number of trophies to the boats that distinguished them-selves in the various competition classes. First Place in the Museum of Yachting regatta went to Sonny, a 53-foot Sparkman & Stephens sloop owned by Joe Dockery, who received a Panerai timepiece. As the yacht with the best combined score for the three regattas in the circuit, Black Watch, a 1938 Sparkman & Stephens yawl, helmed by co-owner Trevor Fetter took home the PCYC North American Circuit Trophy.paneraiclassicyachtschallenge.com

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CULTURAL EXCHANGEGucci Timepieces & Jewelry, along with the Grammy Foundation, the Recording Academy and the Asia Society, hosted the finale concert of the Grammy Cultural Exchange Program. The concert featured a quintet made up of students from China’s Xi’an Conservatory of Music who were invited to attend the Grammy Cultural Exchange Program in New York for a four-day experience that included performing a number of concerts. As part of its mission to support talented young musicians through international music exchange pro-grams, Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry currently operates its Music Fund programs in China, the UK and Japan. 201.867.8800, guccitimeless.com

Grammy Cultural Exchange Program concert, co-hosted by Gucci

Kassia Meador

BACK TO BACKSwatch celebrated the re-opening of its Ala Moana, Honolulu, retail store on September 21 with an art-centered daytime event, featuring an exhibit of photography by surfer and artist Kassia Meador. The celebrated surfer was on hand to greet guests, and Swatch provided in-store activities and giveaways. The Hono-lulu event followed just one week after Swatch opened a brand new boutique at Cherry Creek Center in Denver, with professional freeskier Cody Townsend as the guest of honor. There are currently 61 Swatch boutiques in the US. 800.879.2824, swatch.com

AFFAIR TO REMEMBERCelebrating its return to the US market, Swiss watch brand Tudor hosted a lavish a�air in New York on September 13. Guests at the event were the first to view the full collection of Tudor timepieces for men and women. They took in an installation illustrating the brand’s history; a film about Tudor, screened on the venue’s massive video wall; a display of Ducati motorcycles, designed to match the Tudor Fastrider Black Shield watches; a specially branded Audi R8, commemorating the sanctioning of the new Tudor United SportsCar Championship by the International Motor Sports Association; and music by DJ Harley Viera-Newton. “We are thrilled to be back in the US, and the tim-ing couldn’t be better,” says Tudor USA brand manager Russell Kelly, who predicts, “Tudor’s rich heritage, retro-chic styling and outstanding quality will resonate strongly with the new wave of discern-ing watch enthusiasts here in America.”800.36.ROLEX, tudorwatch.com The Tudor Fastrider Black Shield chronograph, $4,925, and Tudor’s Russell Kelly


+EVENT WATCH


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SIENA SERIES 1 I 2 I 3

800 .800 .4436 V iew the ent i re Orb i ta Luxury Co l lec t ion a t o rb i ta . com

Advanced winding technology, for your fine�watches.

MADE IN USA

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+EVENT WATCH


PARIS TO BOSTONFollowing the launch of its limited edi-tion Flight Instrument Box at Colette in Paris, Bell & Ross held its official US debut event for the special boxed set of aviation-inspired watches at Shreve, Crump & Lowe in Boston. The Flight Instrument Box includes a set of six new BR 01 watches with time displays and complications

modeled on the cockpit instrument panel of a vin-tage airplane. The watches are dubbed the Airspeed, Heading Indicator, Climb, Horizon, Altimeter and Turn Coordinator. Along with champagne and hors d’oeuvres, guests enjoyed the opportunity to view and try on these watches

as well as others from Bell & Ross’ 2013 Col-

lection. The Flight Instrument Box is

limited to 99 numbered examples.888.307.7887, bellross.com

SPORTS CENTEREDSeiko served as the o�cial timer of the International Association of Athletics Federations World Championships in Moscow this past August. Newly developed timing sys-tems in use at this year’s event included a giant three-sided LED scoreboard, displaying athlete profiles, events in progress and, of course, timing results. Seiko also introduced a pace-car-mounted timing board, displaying elapsed time from the start of a race for the benefit of both athletes and fans. Inside the Seiko Pavilion adjacent to the Luzhniki Stadium, an exhibi-tion of Seiko’s 100-year history shared space with a replica of the track (for photo ops) and watches from Seiko’s current collection.seiko.co.jp/moscow2013

BEST IN SHOWLabor Day weekend marked the inauguration of Frédérique Constant’s partnership with the Lime Rock Park Concours d’Elegance, the largest display of vintage cars on the East Coast. The road-racing venue in northwestern Connecticut welcomed more than 250 early-20th-century racecars and nearly 500 collectible cars to the gathering. Among the rarest was a 1948 Ferrari Spyder Corsa, which took Best in Show honors. Its owner was presented with a Frédérique Constant Vintage Rally watch by Ralph Simons, president of Alpina Frédérique Constant Americas. “I’m honored to present our watches to an audience that appreciates and has a passion for fine mechanics,” says Simons, who also awarded the winner of the People’s Choice trophy, an impeccable 1966 Ford Mustang, with a timepiece from the brand.855.55.FCUSA, frederique-constant.com

The Frédérique Constant Vintage Rally, $3,375

Three of the aviation-inspired watches of Bell & Ross’ limited edition Flight Instrument Box

modeled on the cockpit instrument panel of a vintage airplane. are dubbed the Heading Indicator, Horizon, Altimeter and Turn Coordinator. with champagne and hors d’oeuvres, guests enjoyed the opportunity to view and try on these watches

as well as others from Bell & Ross’ 2013

lection. TInstrument Box is

limited to 99 numbered examples.888.307.7887, bellross.com

timing board, displaying elapsed time from the


The Seiko scoreboard

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MARCH 27 – APRIL 3, 2014

BRILLIANCEMEETS

WWW.BASELWORLD.COM

LA CONVERGENCE DE L’ÉCLAT.

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+EVENT WATCH



TIMING IS EVERYTHINGAs the America’s Cup Finals got un-derway in the San Francisco Bay this September, Swiss watch brand TAG Heuer celebrated the 30-year history of its Aquaracer Collection along with its o�cial partnership with Oracle Team USA in the 34th America’s Cup. At the helm of today’s Aquaracer Collection is the limited edition Aquaracer Calibre 72 Countdown Chronograph, which pays tribute to both achievements. The 43-mm steel watch features a countdown function that can be used as a 15-minute, 10-minute or 5-minute timer. The water-resistant watch (500 meters) is o�ered on a steel bracelet or a black rubber strap. 866.675.2080, tagheuer.com

GOOD STARTMotoGP racer and Tissot ambassador Stefan Bradl be-came the first German rider of the modern era to take a premier class pole position in the US Grand Prix this past summer, after leading in the qualifying session at the leg-endary Laguna Seca circuit. In recognition of this achieve-ment, Bradl received his first Tissot Pole Position Award: a T-Touch Expert watch, presented by actor Tyson Beckford. As the o�cial watch of MotoGP, Tissot provides o�cial tim-ing services and results reporting for MotoGP and counts four MotoGP riders—Bradl, Bradley Smith, Thomas Lüthi and Nicky Hayden—among its sports-world ambassadors. 800.284.7768, tissot.ch

COAST TO COAST Simultaneously hosting the Piaget Hamptons Cup at the Equuleus Polo Club in Watermill, New York, and the finals of the prestigious USPA Piaget Silver Cup tournament at the Santa Barbara Polo & Racquet Club in Santa Barbara, Calif., Piaget dominated the US polo scene in mid-August. On the East Coast, specta-tors were treated to an exciting match between Team St. Regis and Team Credit Suisse. St. Regis won, 9–8, and received the trophy from Piaget North America president Larry Boland. The event also raised more the $500,000 for the Robin Hood Foundation. The same day, on the West Coast, Farmers & Merchants Bank competed against La Herradura for the oldest polo trophy in the US. FMB pulled ahead in the final three minutes to finish with a 12–11 win.877.8PIAGET, piaget.com

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer 72 Countdown Chronograph, $5,500, and Oracle Team USA, winners of the 34th America’s Cup

Final of the USPA Piaget Silver Cup tournament and the Piaget Polo FortyFive, $21,000

Marc Marquez, Tyson Beckford, Stefan Bradl and Alvaro Bautista at Laguna Seca

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Bring Boeing’s “Queen of the skies” 747 into your conference room with MotoArt’s newest piece made from a General Electric engine nacelle. This high-mirror polished table seats up to 12. The custom fabricated engine stator is set off with internal LED lighting in a color of your choice.

747 Cowling Conference

TABle

Jumbo JetFor the executive set

Dimensions: 12’ / 365cm wideDimensions: 12’ / 365cm wide

U S - E u r o - A s i a - M i d d l e E a s t - O c e n i a

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WW1 RÉGULATEUR Pink Gold · Limited Edition to 99 piecesBell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 · [email protected] · e-Boutique: www.bellross.com

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WW1 RÉGULATEUR Pink Gold · Limited Edition to 99 piecesBell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 · [email protected] · e-Boutique: www.bellross.com

WJ25_bellandross_0805.indd 3 8/5/13 4:04 PM

Invention of the Tourbillon, 1801

The Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon 5317 provides the perfect setting for Breguet’s most spectacular invention and undeniably the most beautiful of all horological complications, developed over 210 years ago to compensate for the effects of gravity. On the back, the “B-shaped” oscillating weight reveals the beauty of the meticulously hand-engraved movement. History is still being written...

Breguet, the innovator.

B R E G U E T B O U T I Q U E S – N E W Y O R K F I F T H A V E N U E 6 4 6 6 9 2 - 6 4 6 9 – N E W Y O R K M A D I S O N A V E N U E 2 12 2 8 8 - 4 0 14

B E V E R LY H I L L S 310 8 6 0 - 9 9 11 – B A L H A R B O U R 3 0 5 8 6 6 -10 6 1 – L A S V E G A S 7 0 2 73 3 - 74 3 5 – T O L L F R E E 8 7 7 - 4 0 3 - 8 1 6 2 – W W W. B R E G U E T. C O M

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