with compliments of cedarmount veterinary clinic puppy pack … · behaviour such as bin raiding,...

With compliments of Cedarmount Veterinary Clinic

PUPPY PACK Contents . Puppy - Getting Started Page 4 Puppy Socialisation Page 7. Puppy Training Page 10. Puppy Development Part 1 Page 12. Puppy Development Part 2 Page 14. Play Biting / Mouthing Page 15. Pulling / Lungeing / Chasing / Jumping Up Page 18. Come, Wait, Follow Page 20. Sit, Down, Stay Page 22. Play and exercise Page 25. House Soiling Page 29. Crate Training Page 33. Destructive Behaviour Page 35. Spaying / Neutering


PUPPY – GETTING STARTED AND HOUSE TRAINING GUIDE Bringing a new puppy into your home is a big change! Your goals are to help your puppy to bond quickly to its new family, and to minimise the stress associated with leaving its mother, litter mates, and former home. If there are already dogs in the new home this transition may be a little easier as the puppy is able to identify with its own kind. However, most puppies, especially those obtained before 12 weeks of age, will form attachments almost immediately to the people and any other pets in the new home, provided that there are no unpleasant consequences associated with each new person and experience. How do I prevent my puppy from doing damage or getting into mischief? The rule of thumb for dog training is "set the dog up for success". Supervise the puppy whenever possible until it has learned what it is allowed to chew, and where it is supposed to eliminate. Keeping the puppy on a house line is an excellent way to keep it in sight, and to train it not to wander off. This is particularly helpful with a highly investigative puppy or in a very busy household. At any time that the puppy cannot be supervised, such as throughout the night or when you need to go out, house it in a secure area. An escape-proof cage, a dog run, or collapsible pen are simple, highly effective, and most important, safe. The puppy could also be confined to a room that has been carefully dog-proofed. When selecting your dog’s confinement area it is useful to consider a number of factors. The dog will adapt faster to the new area if it is associated with rewards. Have the puppy enter the area for all its treats, toys, and perhaps food and water. The area should have some warm, dry, comfortable bedding and should never be used for punishment (although it can, and should, be used to prevent problems). Housing the puppy in isolated areas where there is minimal human contact, such as in a back room or basement cellar, should be avoided. In fact, often the best area is a kitchen (so that this can also be the dog’s feeding area) or a bedroom (so that it becomes the dog’s sleeping area). Each time the puppy needs to be confined, it should first be well exercised and given an opportunity to eliminate. Another consideration in selecting the type of confinement area is how long you may need to leave the dog alone. Anytime the puppy will be left alone for longer than it can control its elimination, you must provide an area for elimination. A room or collapsible pen with a paper-covered area would be needed. A simple cage could be used for owners that do not have to leave their puppies confined for longer than 2 or 3 hours. How can I prevent problems? Supervise the puppy at all times that it is not confined to ensure that the puppy does not get itself into mischief or cause damage to itself or the home. Leaving a house line attached is all that is usually needed to prevent or interrupt inappropriate behaviour such as bin raiding, chewing on household items, house-soiling, or wandering off into rooms or areas that are out of bounds. When the puppy cannot be supervised, confinement (discussed above) will be necessary. It is not fair to stop

1

the puppy doing things for when you provide no suitable alternative. Providing for your puppy’s needs is discussed below. What if my puppy does something wrong? Every effort should be made to avoid punishment for new puppies as it is unnecessary and can poor relationships at a time when bonding and attachment are critical. By preventing problems through confinement or supervision, providing for all of the puppy’s needs, and setting up the environment for success, punishment should never be required. If a reprimand is needed, a verbal "ah-ah" or a loud noise such as a hand clap is usually sufficient to distract a puppy so that you can then direct the puppy towards the correct behaviour. NEVER hit or smack a puppy. What must I do to provide for my puppy’s needs? Chewing, play, exercise, exploration, feeding, social contact and elimination are basic requirements of all puppies. By providing appropriate outlets for each of these needs, few problems are likely to emerge. Puppies should be given chew toys that interest them and occupy their time. When supervised, the owner can allow the puppy to investigate and explore its new environment and can direct the puppy to the appropriate chew toys (and away from inappropriate areas). Hollow toys can be stuffed with biscuits and treats to make them more attractive. Play, exercise, affection, training, and handling must all be part of the daily routine. New tasks, new routines, new people and new forms of handling can be associated with rewards to ensure success. And, of course, the puppy will need to be provided with an acceptable area for elimination, and will need guidance until it learns to use this area. How do I house-train my puppy? With a few basic rules you can house-train most puppies within a few days. This does not mean that the puppy will be able to be trusted to wander throughout the home without eliminating. What the puppy should quickly learn is where it should eliminate.

A. Puppies have a strong urge to eliminate after sleeping, playing, feeding and drinking. Take your puppy to its selected elimination area within a few minutes of each of these activities. In addition, although some puppies can control themselves through the entire night, most puppies need to eliminate every 3 to 4 hours during the daytime. With each passing month, you can expect your puppy to control itself a little longer between elimination times. The puppy should be taken to its elimination area on lead, given a word or two of verbal encouragement (e.g. "Hurry up") and as soon as elimination is completed, lavishly praised and patted. A few tasty food treats can also be given the first few times the puppy eliminates in the right spot, and then intermittently thereafter. You can also have a short game with a favourite toy. This teaches the puppy the proper place to eliminate, and that elimination in that location is associated with rewards. Always go outdoors with your puppy to ensure that it has eliminated and so that rewards can be given immediately when it performs.

B. When indoors the puppy must be supervised so that you can see when it needs to eliminate and immediately take it outdoors to its elimination area. If you see pre-elimination signs (circling, squatting, sneaking-off, heading to the door),

2

immediately take your puppy to its elimination site, give the cue words, and reward the puppy for elimination. If the puppy begins to eliminate indoors, interrupt it by saying “oops”, and immediately take the puppy outdoors to its proper site, so that it can complete the act.

C. When you are not available to supervise, the puppy should be confined to its confinement area. Be certain that your puppy has had a chance to eliminate, and has had sufficient play and exercise before any lengthy confinement. If the area is small enough, such as a pen or cage, many puppies will have sufficient control to keep this area clean. When you come to release the puppy from confinement, it must be taken directly to its elimination area. If the area is too large for the puppy to keep clean, or the puppy is left alone too long for it to control itself, the entire area, except for the puppies bed and feeding spot, should be covered with paper for elimination.

What do I do if I find some stool or urine in an inappropriate spot? Be cross with yourself for not watching your puppy and just clean it up! There is no point in punishing or even pointing out the problem to the puppy. Only if the puppy is in the act of elimination can you correct it (and take it out to the appropriate place). Make sure your clean the area thoroughly with a proper pet odour and stain remover or use diluted biological washing powder. Leaving any residue will encourage the puppy to eliminate in that spot again. Why does my puppy refuse to eliminate in my presence, even when outdoors? Puppies that are not supervised and rewarded for outdoor elimination, but are constantly being disciplined and punished for indoor elimination, may soon begin to fear to eliminate in all locations in an owner’s presence. These puppies do not associate the punishment with indoor elimination; they associate the punishment with the presence of the owner. Check to see whether or not this could apply in your situation and ask for urgent help from our behaviourist! Punishment does not work! How can I teach my puppy to signal that it needs to go out to eliminate? By regularly taking the dog outdoors, through the same door, to the same site, and providing rewards for proper elimination, the puppy will soon learn to head for the door each time it has to eliminate. If you recognise the signs of impending elimination and praise the puppy whenever it heads for the doorway, the behaviour can be encouraged further. When will I be able to trust my puppy to wander loose throughout the home? Generally you will want your dog to have been error free around the house for a month before you can begin to decrease your confinement and supervision. The first time you leave the puppy unsupervised should be just after taking the dog outdoors for elimination. Gradually increase the length of time that your dog is allowed to roam through the home without supervision. If the dog has been able to go unsupervised for a couple of hours without an "accident", it might then be possible to begin going out for short periods of time. Of course, if the dog still investigates and chews, then confinement and supervision may still be necessary as well as a wider range of chew toys.

3


PUPPY SOCIALISATION AND HABITUATION Socialisation is the process whereby your puppy learns how to recognise and interact with the people and other animals it will live with. Habituation is the process whereby your puppy becomes accustomed to non-threatening things in the environment and learns to ignore them. The aim is for every experience to be positive for the puppy. There is a sensitive period of development in which socialisation and habituation must occur. For puppies this period is between 3 and 14 weeks of age, but exposure to things needs to continue regularly for the first year of life. A dog that has had no experience of something by the end of the sensitive period will always be fearful of it; a dog that has had some exposure, but not sufficient, will be better adjusted, although not entirely sound; and a dog that has had adequate experience in the sensitive period will grow up to be "bomb proof". Although it is possible through training to improve fearful reactions, prevention is always better than cure!

Watch your puppy carefully when he meets something new. He should be curious and want to explore. You are responsible for making sure the experience is always positive for him. If he shows any fear, move away and try again.

A puppy’s exposure to environmental stimuli should be as systematic as possible to ensure the best chance of it developing a sound temperament and capacity to cope in all circumstances. A lot of responsibility lies with the breeder. Basically, a puppy obtained from a chaotic, noisy family household is far less likely to develop a fearful temperament than one that has been kept exclusively in a kennel or farm building.

Of course, the puppy needs to be kept safe from catching infections and it should not be taken for walks in public places until after its vaccinations are completed, but this does not mean you need to keep your puppy indoors at home all the time until then. There are lots of things you should do at home and you can even take your puppy out and about in the car and by carrying it until it is safe for your puppy to walk by itself.

Things that you should do at home

Visitors: Accustom your puppy to lots of visitors of both sexes and all ages. This will develop its social experience and help to keep territorial behaviour to manageable levels in later life. Ensure your visitors only say "Hello” and fuss your puppy once it has got over its initial excitement so as to prevent the development of boisterous greeting behaviour.

Children: Accustom your puppy to being handled by your and/or visitor's children, but don't let them pester it or treat it as a toy. Always supervise. Arrange to meet someone with a baby regularly, especially if you plan to have a family. This will help to overcome the common worries about how the family dog will react to a new baby and toddlers.

Domestic sights and sounds: Expose your puppy to noisy domestic stimuli such as the vacuum cleaner, washing machine, dishwasher, toaster etc. but don't make an issue of them. Let the puppy get used to them gradually without being stressed.

The postman and milkman etc: Carry your puppy and meet these people as often as you can. If your puppy gets to know and like them and more importantly learns that they will not "run away" if it barks, it is far less likely to show territorial aggression towards them when it grows up. (Some householders have to collect their post from

4

the sorting office because the postman will not deliver as a result of their dog's behaviour).

Cats: If you have one, introduce your puppy to it. Keep the puppy under control and reward it for not pestering. Be careful not to worry the cat, as it may scratch your puppy. Placing the cat in a cat carrying basket just out of the puppy's reach can be a useful method of introduction with little chance of an unpleasant incident occurring. This can be repeated after a few days so that both puppy and cat learn to become settled in each other's company.

Other dogs at home: If you already have a dog introduce your puppy to it in the garden. Once the initial acceptance has been made by the older dog, the two should find their own level and settle down without too much intervention from you.

Leash training: Prepare your puppy for walking on the lead by getting it used to its collar and lead in the house and garden.

Going solo: Socialisation is very important, but so is learning to be alone. Puppies who are not accustomed to being left unattended on a regular basis are much more likely to suffer from separation anxiety (i.e. become anxious when separated from the owner) in adulthood. The three main symptoms of separation anxiety are destructiveness, incessant howling or barking and loss of toilet control.

To help prevent your puppy from suffering from this very common syndrome, you need to leave it unattended (i.e. in the house on its own) for over an hour on most days, preferably in the area that it sleeps in overnight. Ensure this area is "chew proof" and free from hazards such as electrical cables etc. Crates and pens are useful. Leave your puppy with some appropriate chew items, such as long lasting chews from the pet shop, and fresh water.

Initially you should accustom your puppy to you sitting in another room, with the door between you open. Over a period of time the routine can be carried out with the door shut. Once your puppy accepts this you can start to leave the house; go next door for a coffee, for example. Gradually extend the time you are away until you are absent for over an hour on a regular basis. Do not go back if you hear your puppy crying. Return when it is quiet. If a puppy thinks it can "call you back “ it may never accept being left.

Be very matter of fact about going out and coming home. If you fuss your puppy before leaving you can unsettle it and make it want to go with you. Too much fuss on returning home highlights the loneliness of your absence.

Things to do away from home

Go to all the environments you can think of that will help your puppy become "bomb proof" . Start in quieter places and gradually find busier ones. Remember to carry your puppy until it has completed its vaccinations.

The street: Expose your puppy to the sound of traffic and the movement of people. Start in quiet side streets and gradually build up to busy ones.

Places where people congregate: Any environment where people tend to congregate to sit and chat will do, so that they have the time to take interest in and handle your puppy. Local parks, beaches and town centres are good for this.

Children's play areas, schools, creches: These are good places to meet lots of children of different ages (but consult your veterinary surgeon about the appropriate worming programme before bringing your puppy in contact with children). Take your puppy along to the local school or creche at playtimes or starting and end times. Take your time and start with just a few children and control their enthusiasm to prevent your puppy from being overwhelmed.

5

The car: Plenty of car travel will accustom your puppy to it and help prevent car sickness. Do not let your puppy sit on the front seat or on someone's lap. Accustom it to travelling in the place it will occupy when it is an adult.

The countryside: Accustom your puppy to the sights, sounds and smells of the countryside and livestock etc. (in your enthusiasm don't forget the Country Code).

Leash training: Once your veterinary surgeon has said that your puppy can be safely walked on a lead instead of carried, carry on as before but go back to using quiet areas, then gradually build up to noisy and busy ones again. In addition think about the unusual places to which you can accustom your puppy, for example, open staircases can be a problem, as can the vibration of station platforms when trains arrive or the movement of the floors on trains, buses and lifts. Encourage your puppy to walk on lots of different surfaces, such as concrete, gravel, sand, mud, stones, gratings and manhole covers. In the countryside keep your puppy on a lead and reward it for staying with you and ignoring livestock.

Socialising with other dogs

Puppies learn a lot from their littermates and mother. It is important that the process of learning to interact with other dogs continues througout the socialisation period and first year of life. However, socialising with other dogs does not entail allowing your puppy to run amok with other dogs in the park or on the beach! You would not allow your child to run off and play with any child they see, so be as careful with your puppy! If the other dogs are not properly socialised, their interactive and communication skills may be poor, which can often result in a misunderstanding and aggression. This sort of encounter could result in your puppy learning to be aggressive towards, or fearful of, other dogs. So set up meetings with your friends’ or family well behaved dogs instead.

Puppy training classes are a great environment for puppies to learn to be with and meet other dogs in a controlled way. Good classes will teach you how to help your puppy greet people and other dogs calmly and politely. Our behaviourist, Carol Clark, runs such classes, so contact her to enrol now!

What should I do if my puppy shows any fear whilst it is being socialised/habituated?

(a) Do not overreact. Just keep calm, be matter of fact (it’s OK you know!) and show your puppy there is nothing to worry about.

(b) Do not try to pressure a puppy into approaching the item as you will make things worse, rather move a little further away until you see your puppy calming down and coping.

(c) Expose the puppy to the type of stimulus that worried it as often as possible, but initially from a distance (i.e. reduce the size of the stimulus) so that the puppy can become desensitised to it and learn to cope. As the puppy's reaction improves you can gradually get closer.

(d) Reward the puppy every time it does not react to the stimuli, or as soon as it recovers from its fright if it does react.

Remember: Start socialisation and habituation from the moment you get your puppy and continue it for the first year of its life!

6


PUPPY TRAINING AND SOCIALISATION Dogs are a highly social species, which normally in the wild will live in packs. When puppies enter our homes the family become its new pack. In order to live happily as part of the family the new puppy will have to learn some rules and learn how to cope in this modern world. When is the best time to begin training my puppy? Puppies are learning from the minute you bring them home, so it is best to begin teaching puppies from the time they are obtained. Early training should include helping your puppy learn how to cope with the environments it will live in and experience (socialisation, described earlier), teaching the puppy where it should eliminate (house training, described earlier), teaching it never to bite (described earlier), teaching the puppy to be handled by humans and teaching good manners around food and toys. You should also enrol in a good puppy training class which wil teach you how to train your puppy all the things it needs to become a great family pet. Our behaviourist trainer, Carol Clark, runs Kennel Club Accredited classes locally. Is physical force ever necessary? Some websites (and some other owners) may advocate physical techniques for gaining control of your puppy. But the use of physical corrections such as scruff shakes, rollover techniques and hitting/smacking to discipline puppies actually cause many more problems than they resolve and should NEVER be used. Hitting or smacking a puppy will make it afraid of human hands. We want young puppies to look toward a human hand as something pleasant that brings comfort, food and affection, not something to be scared of. Animals can learn as a result of a single episode if something is frightening or unpleasant enough. It is much easier to teach the puppy what you want, rather than discipline what you don't want. This makes a positive, learning environment for the puppy to grow up in. So what do I do if my puppy misbehaves? Teach your puppy that good behaviour brings the things it wants. Looking at, talking to and touching your puppy is seen as rewarding - so telling puppies off does not stop bad behaviour! The puppy must be taught that vocalisation, nipping, mouthing, overly rambunctious or demanding behaviours of any sort will never earn any attention or rewards. All these unwanted behaviours should be met by taking away all your attention (turning away and ignoring your puppy) until it stops and/or settles down. If ignoring does not stop the unwanted behaviour quickly, go out of the room or put your puppy out. Conversely, when the puppy is performing appropriate behaviour or stops the unwanted behaviour, lots of praise and rewards must be given. Puppies learn to do the things they get rewarded for!

7

Undesirable behaviour must be prevented (preferable), or interrupted in the act (by a sharp “ah-ah”, “oops” or hand clap). Puppies are easily disciplined with vocal intonation and loud noises. It is vital to then redirect the puppy to the correct behaviour after you interrupt what you do not like. So, for example, if your puppy bites or mouths your hands, say “ah-ah” and redirect him onto a suitable toy instead. If your puppy jumps up, say “ah-ah” and turn away, but immediately turn back when he has four paws on the ground to give lots of praise. Teach “sit” instead of jumping up to greet. The most important thing that you can do to avoid undesirable behaviour is to supervise your puppy. Unsupervised puppies will chew and destroy objects as part of their natural curiosity and play. Rather than finding yourself with the need to reprimand your puppy, keep your puppy on a lead to avoid bad behaviour and provide suitable play and chew objects to entertain your puppy. What can be done for the particularly stubborn, disobedient, or headstrong puppy? Puppies that are particularly headstrong and stubborn might need some more stringent rules. Certain breeds will show certain natural behaviour patterns we may not want. For example, border collies should be taught to sit and wait before chasing balls; rottweilers should be taught how to “give” toys before playing tug-of-war games; german shepherds should be taught how to greet people and dogs politely; hound and terrier breeds need to start recall training at a very early age, etc. Do some research on your chosen breed and find out what it was bred for – this will give you some idea of what to look for, things that will be important to train and areas which may need special training. What types of handling should I begin with when I start to train my puppy? A. Handling You will do yourself and your new pet a huge favour by teaching your new puppy to allow you to handle his body. Throughout the life of your dog there will be times that you need to handle various parts of the dog’s body. You may need to wipe their feet, clean their ears, give medication or bandage a paw. If you have never handled your dog these simple tasks could be difficult or even impossible. Handling also serves to reinforce the control you are able to exert over your puppy. You should gently handle your puppy daily for the first year of its life. Pick a time when your puppy is calm, like just after a nap. Do not try to start a body handling exercise when your puppy is excited, rambunctious or in the mood for play. Place the puppy in your lap or by your side and touch the feet, open the mouth, look in the ears and under the tail. Touch and rub your puppy all over. All the while, praise your puppy for being good, and offer a few tasty food treats. Be sure to keep initial sessions very short, since you want your puppy to succeed and not struggle to get free. Gradually increase the amount of time you control your puppy. All family members should participate in this exercise. An adult should supervise young children. If you see any hesitance or reluctance on the part of the puppy, do more short sessions and give more treats, until you can accomplish the handling without any resistance. Never forcefully handle your puppy. Over time your puppy should

8

allow you to place pressure on the back of its neck while it is in a down position, to roll it onto its side, to grasp its muzzle and to be lifted (if it is small enough). Introduce a brush and grooming in the same way, starting with very short sessions, only progressing as the puppy learns to cope and enjoy it. If you are having any problems with this please contact our behaviourist, Carol Clark. B. Preventing food or toy guarding Another exercise that is so important is to acclimatise your puppy to having his food and possessions touched by humans. Hand feed your pupy sometimes; handle the food bowl while your puppy eats, pet the puppy and perhaps lift the bowl, place in a special treat, and return it; when walking past the puppy while it is eating you can place a treat in its food bowl, or reach down, pat the puppy and give a treat. This way the puppy learns to tolerate human intrusions and disturbance while it eats and will not be startled and react aggressively should something unexpected happen when eating. If the treat you add is tasty enough, the puppy should even look forward to your approaches during feeding. If your pup ever growls in these situations you should seek professional guidance from our behaviourist immediately. You should also practice gently taking toys from the puppy. Quietly and calmly place your hand on the toy, tell your puppy "give" and offer him a food treat. He will relinquish his toy. Then say "thank-you " and return the object as you tell your puppy to "take it". Repeat this training task multiple times daily in multiple locations. You should be able to handle any of your puppy’s toys. This sends the message to the puppy that it is okay for you to handle its possessions, and that you will give them back. The puppy will trust you and then when you need to remove something from the mouth, your dog should accept your interference without conflict. If your pup ever growls in these situations you should seek professional guidance from our behaviourist immediately.

9

With compliments of Cedarmount Veterinary Clinic !

Puppy!Development!Part!1:!

!

From!Birth!to!Twelve!Weeks!

A"newborn"puppy"doesn't"look"much"like"a"dog"and"goes"through"different"stages"of"puppy"development"during"his"first"twelve"weeks."Dogs"are"considered"puppies"from"birth"to"one"year"of"age"and"go"through"several"puppy"stages"and"development"periods."However,"each"dog"develops"differently,"with"smaller"dogs"tending"to"mature"earlier"and"some"large"breeds"not"physically"mature"before"they"are"two"years"old."

Newborn"puppies"vary"in"size"depending"on"the"breed;"tiny"dogs"like"the"Chihuahua"produce"puppies"sized"about"four"inches"long,"while"giant"breed"newborns"like"Great"Dane"puppies"may"be"twice"that"size.""

Rate"of"puppy"development"also"varies"from"breed"to"breed."For"instance,"Cocker"Spaniel"puppies"open"their"eyes"sooner"than"Fox"Terrier"puppies,"and"Basenji"puppies"develop"teeth"earlier"than"Shetland"Sheepdog"puppies."However,"no"matter"the"breed,"all"puppies"are"born"totally"dependent"on"the"momma"dog,"technically"called"the"bitch.""

Newborns!

At"birth,"puppies"are"blind,"deaf"and"toothless,"unable"to"regulate"body"temperature,"or"even"urinate"or"defecate"on"their"own."Puppies"depend"on"their"mother"and"littermates"for"warmth,"huddling"in"cozy"piles"to"conserve"body"temperature."A"puppy"separated"from"this"warm"furry"nest"can"quickly"die"from"hypothermia—low"body"temperature."Cold,"lonely"puppies"cry"loudly"to"alert"Mom"to"their"predicament."

Puppies"first"experience"the"sensation"of"being"petted"when"washed"by"their"mother's"stroking"tongue."The"bitch"licks"her"babies"all"over"to"keep"them"and"the"nest"clean,"and"also"to"stimulate"them"to"defecate"and"urinate.""

Neonatal!Period:!Birth!to!Two!Weeks!

From"birth,"puppies"are"able"to"use"their"sense"of"smell"and"touch,"which"helps"them"root"about"the"nest"to"find"their"mother's"scentNmarked"breasts."The"first"milk"the"mother"produces,"called"colostrum,"is"rich"in"antibodies"that"provide"passive"immunity"and"help"protect"the"babies"from"disease"during"these"early"weeks"of"life."

For"the"first"two"weeks"of"life,"puppies"sleep"nearly"90"percent"of"the"time,"spending"their"awake"time"nursing."All"their"energy"is"funneled"into"growing,"and"birth"weight"doubles"the"first"week."Newborns"aren't"able"to"support"their"weight,"and"crawl"about"with"paddling"motions"of"their"front"legs."The"limited"locomotion"provides"the"exercise"that"develops"muscles"and"coordination,"and"soon"the"puppies"are"crawling"over"and"around"each"other"and"their"mother."

Transitional!Period:!Week!Two>to>Four!

The"second"week"of"life"brings"great"changes"for"the"puppy."Ears"and"eyes"sealed"since"birth"begin"to"open"during"this"period,"ears"at"about"two"weeks"and"eyelids"between"ten"to"16"days."This"gives"the"furry"babies"a"new"sense"of"their"world."They"learn"what"their"mother"and"other"dogs"look"and"sound"like,"and"begin"to"expand"their"own"vocabulary"from"grunts"and"mews"to"yelps,"whines"and"barks."Puppies"generally"stand"by"day"15"and"take"their"first"wobbly"walk"by"day"21."

By"age"three"weeks,"puppy"development"advances"from"the"neonatal"period"to"the"transitional"period."This"is"a"time"of"rapid"physical"and"sensory"development,"during"which"the"puppies"go"from"

10

total"dependence"on"Mom"to"a"bit"of"independence."They"begin"to"play"with"their"littermates,"learn"about"their"environment"and"canine"society,"and"begin"sampling"food"from"Mom's"bowl."Puppy"teeth"begin"to"erupt"until"all"the"baby"teeth"are"in"by"about"five"to"six"weeks"of"age."Puppies"can"control"their"need"to"potty"by"this"age,"and"begin"moving"away"from"sleeping"quarters"to"eliminate."

Socialization!Period:!Week!Four>to>Twelve!

Following"the"transitional"phase,"puppies"enter"the"socialization"period"at"the"end"of"the"third"week"of"life;"it"lasts"until"about"week"ten."It"is"during"this"socialization"period"that"interaction"with"others"increases,"and"puppies"form"attachments"they"will"remember"the"rest"of"their"life."The"most"critical"periodNNage"six"to"eight"weeksNNis"when"puppies"most"easily"learn"to"accept"others"as"a"part"of"their"family."Refer"to"the"article"on"how"to"socialize"puppies.""

Beginning"at"four"weeks"of"age,"the"bitch's"milk"production"begins"to"slow"down"just"as"the"puppies'"energy"needs"increase."As"the"mother"dog"slowly"weans"her"babies"from"nursing,"they"begin"sampling"solid"food"in"earnest."

The"environmental"stimulation"impacts"your"puppy's"rate"of"mental"development"during"this"time."The"puppy"brain"waves"look"that"of"an"adult"dog"by"about"the"50th"day,"but"he's"not"yet"programmedNNthat's"your"job,"and"the"job"of"his"mom"and"siblings."Weaning"typically"is"complete"by"week"eight.""

Week!Eight>to>Twelve!

Puppies"often"go"through"a""fear"period""during"this"time."Instead"of"meeting"new"or"familiar"people"and"objects"with"curiosity,"they"react"with"fearfulness."Anything"that"frightens"them"at"this"age"may"have"a"lasting"impact"so"take"care"that"the"baby"isn't"overstimulated"with"too"many"changes"or"challenges"at"one"time."That"doesn't"mean"your"pup"will"grow"up"to"be"a"scaredyNcat;"it's"simply"a"normal"part"of"development"where"pups"learn"to"be"more"cautious."Careful"socialization"during"this"period"helps"counter"fear"reactions."

Puppies"may"be"placed"in"new"homes"once"they"are"eating"well"on"their"own."However,"they"will"be"better"adjusted"and"make"better"pets"by"staying"and"interacting"with"littermates"and"the"MomNdog"until"they"are"at"least"eight"weeks"oldNNolder"generally"is"better."Interacting"with"siblings"and"Mom"help"teach"bite"inhibition,"how"to"understand"and"react"to"normal"canine"communication,"and"their"place"in"doggy"society."Puppies"tend"to"make"transitions"from"one"environment"to"another"more"easily"at"this"age,"too."

Your"puppy"still"has"lots"of"growing"to"do."He"won't"be"considered"an"adult"until"he"goes"through"several"more"developmental"periods"and"reaches"one"to"two"years"of"age."

"

11

With compliments of Cedarmount Veterinary Clinic !

Puppy!Development!Part!2!

!

From!10!Weeks!to!2!Years!

Even%though%he%may%look%grown%up,%the%stages%of%puppy%development%last%from%birth%to%a%year%or%

even%two%before%he's%considered%an%adult%dog.%The%greatest%puppy%development%changes%happen%

from%birth%to%twelve%weeks%of%age.%But%from%twelve%weeks%on,%your%fur>kid%still%has%lots%of%growing%up%

to%do.%

Juvenile!Period!

The%juvenile%puppy%period%generally%begins%at%age%ten%weeks,%and%lasts%until%puberty%and%the%onset%of%

sexual%maturity.%It%is%during%this%period%that%puppies%begin%to%learn%the%consequences%of%behavior,%

and%determine%what%is%most%appropriate%to%certain%circumstances.%

Puppies%at%this%age%have%boundless%curiosity,%exasperating%stubbornness,%and%enthusiastic%affection.%

Expect%your%puppy%to%get%into%everything,%and%you%won't%be%disappointed.%This%is%an%ideal%time%to%

begin%training.%

Nearly%every%waking%moment%is%spent%in%play,%which%is%not%only%great%fun%for%the%babies,%but%is%great%

practice%for%canine%life.%Puppies%learn%how%to%do%important%dog%activities%like%chasing%and%running,%

pawing,%biting%and%fighting.%Social%skills%and%canine%etiquette%are%learned%by%interaction%with%

littermates%and%Mom.%Puppies%learn%to%inhibit%their%bite%when%they%are%bitten%by%each%other,%and%

learn%canine%language.%Through%play,%they%practice%dominant%and%submissive%postures,%and%prepare%

for%life%in%the%world.%

10;16!weeks:!Juvenile!Delinquent!Pups!

Puppies%test%their%boundaries%during%this%period%that%lasts%anywhere%from%a%few%days%to%several%

weeks.%These%dogs%challenge%owners%to%see%who%calls%the%shots,%seem%to%“forget”%any%training%

they’ve%learned,%and%act%like%rebellious%teenagers.%%

Some%of%this%has%to%do%with%teething.%Pups%lose%baby%teeth%starting%about%three%months%of%age.%There%

can%be%discomfort%as%the%permanent%teeth%erupt%and%puppies%tend%to%chew%more%on%anything%and%

everything%to%relieve%the%pain.%%

Delinquent%behavior%also%may%be%influenced%by%hormones.%Unlike%many%other%species,%a%male%

puppy’s%testosterone%level%from%age%four>to>ten%months%may%be%up%to%five%times%higher%than%an%adult%

dog’s.%That’s%so%the%adult%canines%recognizes%he’s%a%juvenile%and%needs%“schooling”%in%the%ways%of%

dogs—they%make%sure%to%knock%him%down%a%peg%and%teach%manners%before%he%gets%too%big%for%his%

furry%britches.%

But%even%pups%that%have%been%spayed%and%neutered%prior%to%this%can%develop%the%“oh%yeah,%MAKE%

me!”%attitude.%Owners%who%have%done%everything%right%may%still%experience%this%difficult,%frustrating%

phase.%Grit%your%teeth,%keep%him%on%leash%and%under%control,%offer%consistent,%patient%and%humane%

training,%and%tell%yourself,%“He’s%testing%me,%it’ll%get%better.”%Because%it%will.%%

Four!to!Six!Months!

Pups%grow%so%quickly%during%this%period%you%may%notice%changes%every%single%day.%Not%only%may%your%

pup%test%and%challenge%you,%this%is%the%time%frame%puppies%also%figure%out%where%they%stand%with%

other%pets%in%the%group.%Some%squabbling%and%play%fighting%is%expected.%It’s%a%dog%rule%that%older%

animals%teach%the%pup%limits,%which%is%normal%and%usually%sounds%more%scary%than%it%is.%

12

In%fact,%an%un>neutered%male%puppy's%testosterone%level%increases%at%around%4%to%5%months%of%age.%This%is%one%way%adult%dogs%recognize%that%even%big%puppies%are%still%babies%and%they%must%be%taught%proper%dog%etiquette.%

Puppies%can%also%sometimes%experience%another%fear%phase%during%this%period.%It%may%last%up%to%a%month,%and%their%maybe%more%than%one%especially%in%large%breed%dogs.%This%is%normal%and%nothing%to%worry%about.%It%tends%to%correspond%with%growth%spurts,%and%you%may%notice%some%“flaky”%behavior%or%unwarranted%aggression,%become%protective%of%toys%or%territory.%Just%ensure%you%don’t%reward%the%fearful%behavior%with%more%attention,%and%know%how%to%talk%to%puppies%and%not%use%baby%talk.%It’s%best%to%ignore%the%fear%rather%than%risk%rewarding%it.%Build%confidence%through%training%and%the%pup%should%transition%out%of%it%with%no%further%problems.%%

Adolescence:!Six!to!Twelve!Months!

Most%of%your%pup’s%growth%in%height%finishes%by%this%period%but%he%may%continue%to%fill%out%and%gain%muscle%mass%and%body%weight.%Puppy%coat%starts%to%be%replaced%by%the%adult%coat.%%

While%the%baby%may%still%be%emotionally%immature,%during%this%period%the%boy%pups%begin%to%leg>lift%and%mark%with%urine.%The%testosterone%level%in%male%puppies%increases%to%5>7%times%higher%than%in%an%adult%dog%by%age%10%months,%and%then%gradually%falls%to%a%normal%adult%level%by%about%18%months%of%age.%This%helps%signal%the%senior%male%dogs%that%the%youngster%must%be%put%in%his%place%so%you%may%notice%more%adult>pup%squabbles%during%this%period.%Girl%pups%may%go%into%heat%(estrus)%as%early%as%five%to%six%months,%and%boys%begin%to%be%interested%in%sex%during%this%period.%%

Puppies%at%this%age%seem%to%explode%with%high%energy%and%will%do%well%with%structured%play%and%exercise.%Training%and%continued%socialisation%is%vital%to%ensure%your%youngster%knows%how%to%behave%politely%with%other%dogs,%other%animals%like%cats,%and%other%people%including%children%and%strangers%of%all%sizes,%ages,%and%looks.%

Social!Maturity:!Between!One!and!Two!Years!

Depending%on%the%breed,%your%dog%will%be%physically%mature%at%this%age.%Small%dogs%mature%much%earlier%and%larger%ones%take%more%time.%Your%pup’s%social%maturity%also%can%depend%on%his%or%her%experience%with%other%animals.%Socialisation%and%training%continues%throughout%your%pet’s%lifetime,%because%there%are%always%new%things%to%learn—or%old%lessons%to%revisit%and%practice.%After%all,%the%joy%of%your%puppy’s%first%year%or%two%predicts%a%lifetime%of%love%to%come.%

!

13


BITING: PLAY BITING AND MOUTHING IN PUPPIES Why is my puppy nipping and biting family members? In pack society once puppies become active they play physical games with each other and pester the adults by pulling their ears, tails, etc. In the early days puppies have licence to do what they like but as they grow up, adults and litter mates alike become increasingly intolerant, especially of their very sharp teeth. By eighteen weeks puppies learn that hard-mouthing or play-biting is taboo and a reprimand will quickly follow any transgression of the rules.

So when a puppy is introduced into a new family this learning process is normally incomplete and the puppy is only starting to learn to control its biting. The family must take over where the puppy's mother left off.

How is this done?

How can I stop play biting? One of the things that puppies need to learn is how much pressure from their jaws causes pain. Without this feedback, a puppy does not learn to inhibit the force of its bite. Because all dogs can and will bite at some time, this lesson is vital for human safety. How is this lesson taught? Whenever a puppy uses its teeth in play the person concerned should respond with a sharp, high pitched, yip such as "Ow!” They should then turn away and ignore the puppy for a few seconds, then turn back and continue the play. If the puppy bites again immediately, the “Ow!” is repeated even stronger and should sound as if they have been really hurt and the person should walk away and ignore the puppy for about five minutes. Leave the puppy alone long enough for it to calm down. If when you return the wild playing begins again, leave it again. In this way the puppy learns (a) to limit the strength of its bite in both play and for real and (b) that biting is counter-productive as an attention seeking device. When consistently administered this will rapidly stop play biting. What if yelping does not help? If used consistently this method works. However, for a number of reasons some puppies keep trying! For these puppies, keep a lead attached during any interactions. The puppy can still play and chew, but if he does not stop biting when you yelp and ignore him, you can then use the lead to gently move him away. In extrme cases, walk him out of the room to a safe area and leave him until he has calmed down. Remember that play biting is a component of play behaviour in puppies. Play is a form of social interaction. It is important to accept that the puppy is trying to play and that this is important for the development of life skills. The problem is that the form of play used is unacceptable and this must be learnt. To ensure that you are in control, be certain that each play session is initiated by you and not the puppy, and that you can end each session whenever you choose.

14


TRAINING PROBLEMS: PULLING, LUNGEING, CHASING, & JUMPING UP

Why do dogs tend to pull, chase and forge ahead? Dogs tend to pull ahead and lunge forward for a number of reasons. Dogs that are particularly exploratory, playful, or investigative will pull their owners down the street as they investigate their environment or are attracted to appealing stimuli (e.g. children, other dogs). As you pull backwards in an attempt to restrain your dog, it resists further by pulling forward even harder, since most dogs tend to pull against pressure. Dogs that are aggressive to certain stimuli (e.g. children, other dogs), and those that have the urge to chase (e.g. joggers, cyclists) are likely to pull ahead in an attempt to chase. In addition, dogs that are restricted or restrained by a lead may be more likely to exhibit defensive aggression and lunge at the passing stimulus in an attempt to repel it. Those dogs that are fearful and as a result are reluctant to leave home may pull and forge ahead on their way back home. How can pulling and forgeing ahead be controlled? It is a shame when owners are unable to engage in the simple joy of walking their dog due to extreme pulling on the lead. The dog should be taught through training, lures and rewards to wak nicely at your side. However, if your dog has already learnt to pull, other things may be needed. The head collar is one of the best means of gaining immediate control. When the dog is wearing a head collar and tries to pull, the head collar will cause your dog’s head to turn toward you. Encouarge your dog back to your side, praise and treat then continue forwards. Alternatively a “no-pull” harness can be used in the same way. Good makes are the Premier Easy walk or Sporn harnesses. Be careful – some other makes actually INCREASE pulling. For the dog that "puts on the brakes" and will not follow, keep the lead slack at all times and encourage the dog verbally and with food treats or toys to move forward. Praise all forward movement really well. My dog chases and I am worried he will get hurt. What can I do? Chasing and running after prey, nipping at heels and herding are normal dog behaviours. These behaviours are more strongly motivated in some breeds of dogs than others. In addition, some dogs may be motivated to chase intruders (people, other dogs) from their property and, when the intruders leave, the behaviour may appear to the dog to have been successful. This usually results in the dog continuing in the "chase" behaviours. In order to control chase behaviours, it is necessary to train the dog to do something different. Shouting "no" and punishing the dog will not stop a behaviour that has a strong motivation, and may even INCREASE the problem. Prevention is better than cure. Start by teaching the dog to sit and stay. Then take time to teach a leave cue. Once these basics have been accomplished you can begin

15

to present the dog with the distraction that it would normally chase and by using the leave cue you can redirect the dog toward you and reward it for an appropriate response. Remember, when off the lead the dog may revert to its old habits. Therefore, try to avoid those situations until you feel confident that the dog will behave. When you are ready to train your dog off the lead, start by fixing a lead to the collar but letting it trail, rather than holding it. In this way the dog feels the weight of the lead but is not actually restrained. With time you can gradually cut the lead shorter and shorter until the dog is off lead altogether. Once the dog has been engaging in chase behaviours for some time, it will be more difficult to stop the behaviour. The very fact that the object the dog chases runs, is reinforcement. A programme of desensitisation and counter-conditioning is needed to correct the problem. The process consists of teaching the dog to sit and stay for rewards while gradually introducing objects that it chases. It will be necessary to start with objects the dog is unlikely to chase and progress to more tempting items with time. If the problem is severe, a consultation with a professional trainer may be necessary. Control with a head collar and lead is often the most practical and most successful method of ensuring that the dog will sit and stay in the presence of the stimulus. The use of highly motivating rewards (favoured food treats, favoured toys) can also be used to lure the dog into a sit and can be given as a reward for staying. My dog charges the door and jumps on people who enter my home. What can I do? Another behaviour that often causes problems for owners is door charging. Door charging is the behaviour of the dog speeding to the door whenever anyone knocks or rings the bell. To deal with this problem start by teaching the dog to sit and stay for a food reward in the hall when there is no distraction from someone knocking at the door. Gradually phase out food treats when the behaviour is learned and can be reliably repeated. Next you will need to practice dealing with the dog’s response to the knock at the door by asking family members and friends to come to the house at pre-arranged times. Finally, when the dog has mastered the task with people he knows, you should practice with visitors, keeping the dog on a lead and making it sit and stay while the visitor knocks at the door and eventually comes in. A lead and head collar is an excellent way to control the dog during this process. By always insisting that your dog sits before it gets petted you can go a long way to eliminating jumping up behaviour. After all if the dog has always been able to gain your attention by jumping up to greet you. how can you expect it to understand that such behaviour is no longer acceptable when visitors arrive? If door charging behaviour is coupled with aggression, you should seek the immediate help of a behaviourist. How can I prevent my dog from jumping up on others and me? For many dogs, jumping up on people is part of their greeting routine. Many dogs like to greet "face to face", like they do with their canine counterparts. People, however, find this objectionable. Rather than punishing the behaviour, find a means of teaching the dog an appropriate greeting posture instead. For most owners this is a sit/stay, which can be rewarded with food and attention. Use a lead to help enforce it! Once the dog has perfected this form of greeting with the owner and practised it with family members, it is ready to try with visitors. Make the dog sit and stay while people come and hand the dog a treat. If the dog gets up, then put him back in the sit and try again. Often placing a “treat jar” by the front door with a bell on it will help.

16

Once the dog associates the bell on the jar with a treat, and a treat with a sit/stay, the dog will be more likely to perform the task. Another way to train this behaviour is to set up visitors to come to your home at previously agreed times. As the first person comes to the door you should instruct your dog to sit and stay. Then, and only then, the visitors are let in. Your dog should be kept in a sit while the visitor enters and the person should give a treat to the dog as they pass and go to sit down. After 5 minutes, the visitor should leave by the back door, come to the front door and repeat the process. The second entry should be easier as your dog will have just seen the person and the element of excitement and novelty will be reduced. If you can repeat this 4-6 times for each visitor, the dog will have plenty of opportunity to learn the new task. If the dog succeeds in getting any attention for the jumping behaviour, then the dog will continue to jump. Attention may be petting, pushing away (which resembles play behaviour), and even mild reprimands which can be paradoxically reinforcing for a dog who really wants attention. To change this behaviour you need to remove ALL reinforcement. This means that you do not look, speak, touch or interact with the dog IN ANY WAY when it jumps on you. But DO priase your dog very well once it has four paws on the ground. Some owners like to allow the dog to jump up on them at certain times and this is perfectly acceptable so long as the dog is never allowed to choose the time. Ideally you should teach your dog to jump up in response to a cue such as "give me a hug" or "come up here". In this way, you have the behaviour under verbal control and you can decide when the dog will be allowed to jump up.

17


TRAINING PUPPIES: COME, WAIT, AND FOLLOW How can I get my puppy to "come" when called? Teaching a puppy to "come" on cue is a difficult but important task. Start early because a puppy that will come when called is safer! In addition, most young puppies do not like to stray too far from their owners. So all it takes is a kneeling owner and a happy "come" cue and your puppy will willingly come to you. Similarly most young puppies will automatically come and follow as you walk away. However, by 3 to 4 months of age, as puppies become a little more independent and exploratory, more appealing rewards may be needed. The two most important rules about teaching your puppy to come to you is to set up the puppy for success (so that you never fail) and that each training session is simple, fun and pleasurable. NEVER CALL YOUR PUPPY TO YOU IN ORDER TO PUNISH IT! Start by backing away from your puppy 1-3 feet and wiggle a food treat or a favoured toy in front of its nose. At the same time say the puppy’s name and "come". Use a happy inviting tone of voice. When your puppy comes to you, praise it lavishly and give the treat or toy. Then repeat. And repeat. And repeat….! Start by only moving short distances, then gradually have the puppy come further to reach you. Reinforce this task by calling your puppy over several times a day, giving a pat or a food treat and sending it on its way. Try to avoid only calling the puppy to you to bring it inside, to put it in its cage or otherwise end with something fun. Be sure to spend time calling the puppy over and then releasing it, this will help the puppy learn that by coming to you, good things happen. Remember it is critical to succeed with every training session. Stay close, make certain that there are no distractions and proceed slowly. Over time, the puppy should be very slowly taught to come from progressively further distances and in environments with a greater number of distractions. If there is any chance that the puppy might escape or disobey, have the puppy wear a long remote lead (which can be left dangling as the puppy wanders and investigates). Then if the puppy does not immediately obey the "come" cue, a gentle tug of the lead can be used to get the puppy’s attention, and the cue repeated in an upbeat, happy voice. This should help to ensure that the "come" cue is both successful and rewarding for the puppy. How can I teach my new puppy to wait or follow? Teaching a puppy to wait or follow are extensions of the other tasks you should teach. To teach your puppy to walk nicely at your side (heel), use a food treat, place it by your side at puppy nose height and entice the puppy both vocally and with the food to "heel". As the puppy follows its nose to stay near the treat, it will also be learning to heel. For dogs that constantly walk ahead or pull, teaching your dog to follow should begin where there are few distractions, such as in your back garden. Using a harness rather than lead and collar is often useful. Begin with a "sit" cue and reward. Start to

18

walk forward and encourage your dog to follow or heel as above, using a food reward held by your thigh. Continue walking with verbal reinforcement and occasional food rewards given as the dog follows. Each time the dog begins to pass you or pull ahead, say ”oops” and stop dead. Your dog will look round to see what happened, then encourage him back to by your side by holding a treat by your thigh or knee. Once he is back in position, move on again. Sometimes walk suddenly in a different direction without any warning. Using these methods encourages the dog to learn to keep an eye on you and so walk nicely beside you! Once you have the dog walking nicely beside you in the garden with no distractions, you can proceed to the front garden and the street, at first with no distractions, then gradualy building the level of distractions. How can I teach the dog to wait? Although much the same as "stay", this cue is important for the dog that might otherwise bound out the front door, leap out of the car, or run across a busy street. Find a situation where the dog might try to pull ahead, such as at the front door, so that you can begin to teach the wait cue. Training sessions should begin when there are no distractions outdoors (other dogs, people) that might increase your dog’s tendency to run out the door. Use a lead or lead and head collar to ensure control. Begin with a "sit" by the front door. While standing between your dog and the door, give the “wait” cue and start to open the door. If the dog remains in place for a few seconds, praise well and walk out of the door telling your dog to follow. If, however, when you start to open the door your dog moves, immediately shut the door – you do not have to say anything. Ask your dog to “sit” again, give the “wait” cue and repeat until successful. Once your dog will successfully wait for a few seconds and only follow you out of the door when you tell him, gradually increase the waiting time, and then try with distractions (dogs or people on the pavement). This training should also be used when you cross the street, or when getting in or out of the car.

19


TEACHING: SIT, DOWN, STAND, AND STAY How do I teach my puppy to "sit" on cue? Using a food treat, hold the food over the dog’s nose and slowly move it up and back above the dog’s head. As the puppy follows the food with its head it will sit down. Now couple the word "sit" with the action. The upward motion of the hand as you hold the food treat also serves as a visual cue for the puppy. If the pup lifts its front legs you are holding the food treat too high. As soon as the puppy sits, say "good sit" and give the treat. Many repetitions will be necessary for the pup to learn the association properly. Gradually, as the puppy understands what you want, only give the treats intermittently. You should practice sit in many places throughout your home and also when out on walks. It is especially important to teach your puppy to sit by the front door. A dog who readily sits by the front door will be less of a problem greeting guests. How do I teach my puppy to lie down on cue? Start with your puppy in a sit position. To get the puppy to lie down, take a treat, turn yur hand so the treat faces downwards and lower it slowly between the puppy's front paws. Usually the puppy will follow the treat and go down. Couple the word “down” with the action. If the puppy does not lie all the way down, slowly push the treat between the paws and if the puppy lies down give it the treat and of course add "good dog" and gentle petting as praise. For some puppies, teaching the down command can be more difficult. An alternative method is instead of pushing the food treat backwards, slowly pull the treat forward. If that does not work, sit on the floor with your legs straight out in front of you and slightly bent at the knees. Take a hand with a treat in it and push it out under your knee from between your legs. As the puppy tries to get the food treat, slowly bring it back under your knee. As the puppy tries to follow, it will usually lie down. Once the puppy understands the "down" command, make sure that you vary the starting position. You should try to get your puppy to "down" from both a stand and a sit. Again, practise this in lots of places and when out on walks. How can I teach my puppy to "stay" on cue? Puppies can be taught to stay for short periods of time at a young age. Once they sit on command each and every time they are asked, without the need for food lures, training can proceed to more difficult concepts such as "stay". Give the puppy the "sit" cue, praise compliance, then say "stay" (using a hand as a stop sign can be a good visual cue), take one step away, and then quckly return to the puppy and reward him or her for not moving. Be very careful that the puppy does not stand up or move as you present the reward because then you will have rewarded "getting up". Gradually increase the distance by a step at a time, and the length of the stay by a few seconds at a time, until the puppy can stay for a minute or

20

more with you standing at least 10 feet away. It is important to set up the puppy to succeed. Proceeding very slowly, and keeping a long lead attached to the puppy so that it can not run away can help ensure success. Be patient. It may take a week or more of daily training to get a puppy to sit and stay for 1-2 minutes. Over a few months it should be possible to increase the stay to 15 minutes or more, and to be able to leave the room and return without the puppy rising from its stay. For these longer stays it may be better to use a "down-stay" (lying down and staying in place) combination, and to train the dog in a favoured resting or sleeping area. Once extended "sit-stays" are accomplished, the cue can be used to prevent many potential behaviour problems. For example, if you practice "sit and stay" by the front door, this cue can then be used to prevent running out the door and jumping on company. Have your puppy sit and stay while you place the food on the floor and then give him an OK or release cue to eat it. This will help establish good control. How can I teach my dog to stand on cue? Place your puppy in a sit position. Hold a food treat in front of your pup’s nose and move it forward about 2-3 inches. Your puppy should follow and stand up. Couple "stand" with the action. Don’t pull your hand so far away that the puppy follows you, but just until it stands up. What else can I teach my dog? Using the concepts discussed above a dog can be trained to perform anything that it is physically capable of. A "down" or "sit" can be extended from several seconds to many minutes as long as we progress gradually or "shape" the dog’s behaviour. In shaping, we determine our ultimate goal, such as a 20 minute stay, and reward successive increments of the behaviour until we reach that goal. For example, once the dog will sit for 3 seconds before the reward is given, we can repeat the cue and when the puppy sits we wait for 4 seconds before the reward is given. Proceed very slowly, ensuring that the puppy is performing the behaviour properly a few times in a row before proceeding to the next step. Attending a good training class will help show you how to train your dog and give you lots of exercises to practise to help your dog be a well trained family pet. Carol Clark, our behaviourist, runs local classes, so get in touch with her!

21


PLAY AND EXERCISE IN DOGS Why are play and exercise important? Play with owners and with other dogs, not only provides the dog with some of its exercise requirements, but also helps to meet social needs. Insufficient exercise can contribute to problem behaviours including destructiveness (chewing and digging), investigative behaviour (raiding bins), unruliness, excitability, attention-getting behaviours, and some forms of barking. It is especially important to ensure that a dog’s need for exercise has been met prior to leaving the dog alone at home and prior to lengthy sessions of confinement. What are good ways to play with and exercise my puppy? Taking your dog for a walk is a good way to accomplish exercise and can be enjoyable and healthy for you as well. From an early age you should accustom your puppy to a collar and lead. A flat nylon or leather collar is fine. Keep your puppy away from stray dogs and neighbourhood parks until all vaccinations are completed. Practice your walking skills in your own garden first. Put your puppy on a lead, and using a food or toy reward as a prompt, encourage it to follow you. Reward the good behaviour with praise. Keep initial walks short to encourage compliance. Ask for help early if your puppy is starting to pull. Our behaviourist, Carol Clark, will be happy to help you. Good puppy traning classes will teach you how to teach your puppy to walk nicely on lead – again, contact Carol to arrange this. Playing with your pet is an enjoyable activity for both of you. Not only does the puppy get exercise, but positive interactions take place. Training sessions are also an excellent way to build your relationship with your puppy, while providing interaction between you and your pet. How much exercise and play is appropriate? Selecting an appropriate amount and type of play and exercise, will depend firstly on the type of dog. Puppies and even adult dogs from breeds that have been bred for their stamina or to do "work" often have higher exercise requirements. For purebred dogs, consider their traditional work when deciding the type and amount of play to provide. For example, the retrieving breeds do best with lengthy games of fetch or "Frisbee", while the sledging breeds might prefer pulling carts, or running or jogging with an active owner. The length and type of play and exercise for your dog will depend on its behavioural requirements and health limitations. While some dogs may still be ready for more after a 5 mile jog and a game of fetch, others may be tired and satisfied after a short walk around the block. It is good to try to play with your dog as often as you can during the day but keep the sessions short. Five to ten minute sessions 3-4 times a day is ideal. Any training that

22

you want to do can be incorporated into these sessions as play is a great opportunity to do some training! How can I keep my dog occupied when I am away? When you are out, or you are busy at home with other activities and responsibilities, it would be ideal for your dog to be relaxed and sleeping, but this will not always be the case. Exploring the environment, stealing food items, raiding the bin, chewing or digging, are just a few of the ways that dogs will find to keep themselves occupied. Therefore when you are certain that you have provided your dog with sufficient play and interactive exercise, and you must leave your dog alone, provide sufficient toys and distractions to keep your dog occupied and confine your pet to a safe, dog-proofed area. Provide safe objects to chew and self feeding toys to keep your puppy occupied and "busy" while you are unavailable. Remember dogs should not be left more than a maximum of 3-4 hours at a time and even less for puppies. What games can I play with my puppy? Tug-of-war games are enjoyable for many puppies and they do help to direct chewing and biting toward an acceptable play object, rather than an owner’s hands or clothing. On the other hand, some puppies can get very excited, overly stimulated and become far too aggressive during tug-of-war games. Games like chase and fetch are good exercise, but they too can sometimes result in wild exuberant play that gets out of control. As a general guide, you shoud be the one to initiate the games. Teaching the dog to "drop" on command can help to ensure that you remain in control of object play sessions such as fetch and tug-of-war. Every so often during a game you can ask the dog for a calm behaviour such as sit or down. Stop the game quickly if you see your puppy getting over excited. Short sessions are best! There are plenty of other good games. Many dogs can be taught to play "hide and seek" without becoming too excited. Other dogs like to "search" for their toys and bring them to you. How can I teach my puppy to play fetch? Most young puppies, even those that do not have an inherent instinct to retrieve, can be taught how to play fetch from an early age. You will need to train your puppy to do three things; go to get the toy, bring it back, and give it to you so that you can throw it again. First, make the toy enticing. Try a squeaky toy or a ball. Toss the toy a short distance, 1-2 feet, and encourage your puppy to go to it. When she gets there, praise her. If she picks it up in her mouth, tell her “good dog”. Then, move backwards a short way, clap your hands and entice your puppy to come towards you. All the while you should be encouraging your puppy with a happy tone of voice and lots of praise. When your puppy returns to you, say "give" or "release" and show another toy or even a small food treat. Most puppies will gladly give the toy to get the new toy or treat and at the same time will quickly learn the "give" or "release" command. Then, by repeating the entire sequence of events again, the game of fetch itself should soon be enough of a reward that food and toys will no longer be necessary to entice the puppy to give the toy. At the end of each fetch play session,

23

the puppy should return the toy and you should then give a toy or chew treat for the puppy to play with as a final reward for releasing the fetch toy.

24


HOUSE-SOILING: ELIMINATION PROBLEMS IN DOGS

Why is my dog soiling the house? There are numerous reasons that a dog might soil the house with urine and/or stools. Determining the specific reason is essential for developing an effective treatment program. Dogs that soil the home continuously or intermittently from the time they were first obtained may not have been properly house-trained. Following the steps in our house-training leaflet (Puppy - getting started) is essential for success. Dogs that have been previously house-trained, may begin to soil the home for medical reasons or behavioural reasons. Assuming medical causes can be ruled out (see below), some of the behavioural causes can be a change in owner schedule, a change in housing or any change in the pet’s home that might lead to anxiety. For example, if you leave the dog alone for longer than the dog is accustomed, or significantly change the daily schedule or routine, your dog may begin to house-soil. Dogs that are exhibiting an increase in anxiety may begin to eliminate in the home, due primarily to a loss of control when anxious and not due to spite. Dogs that exhibit separation anxiety may soil the home, and require an intensive retraining program. How can separation anxiety be treated? To try and differentiate house-soiling from separation anxiety, it may be necessary for the owner to keep records of when the elimination occurs. If the elimination takes place when the owner is gone, or the dog is prevented from being near the owner, separation anxiety should be considered. If the house-soiling dog exhibits separation anxiety, treatment should be directed not only at re-establishing proper elimination habits (see above), but also at the underlying separation anxiety. Drug therapy may be useful in those cases where anxiety is a contributing factor. It should be noted that punishment at homecoming is not only useless for correcting a problem that has occurred during the owner’s absence, but serves to add to the pet’s anxiety on future occasions. Contact our behaviourist for help. Why am I finding urination on upright objects? Marking in dogs involves urination on upright objects. It is most likely to occur on or near unfamiliar odours or marks left by other dogs. The volume of urine is usually small. The problem is much more common in intact males, but some neutered males and spayed females will mark. Male hormone levels, other dogs entering the property, moving to a new household, getting new furniture or increased stress may all trigger the onset of urine marking. How can marking be treated? Neutering will eliminate male marking behaviour in over 50% of dogs and reduce it in 85% of male dogs. It is also recommended for female dogs that mark during oestrus. Confining the pet so that it is unable to watch other dogs through windows in the

25

home may be helpful. Urine residue must be removed from around doors, windows or other areas where stray dogs have been marking. The owner should give rewards to reinforce marking at outdoor sites where marking is permitted and marking should not be permitted anywhere else. New upright objects that are brought into the home should not be placed on the floor until the pet is familiar with them. During retraining, the owner must closely supervise the pet and when it cannot be supervised, it should be confined to its crate or bedroom area, away from areas that have been previously marked. It might also be possible to booby trap those areas that the pet might mark. When installing a booby trap it is often helpful to associate the trap with a novel smell which allows the dog to discriminate other potentially rigged areas. Any essential oil can be used, but it should be an odour which was previously unfamiliar to the dog. If anxiety is an underlying factor in the marking behaviour, then treatment of the anxiety with desensitisation and counter-conditioning may be helpful and booby traps should be avoided. Why does my dog urinate when he meets new people or I come home? Two specific types of house-soiling, submissive and excitement urination, differ from most other forms of house-soiling in that the dog has little control over its elimination. Submissive urination occurs when a person approaches, reaches out, stands over or attempts to physically punish it. The dog not only urinates but may show other signs of submission such as ears back, retraction of lips, avoidance of eye contact, and cowering. Although this problem can be seen in dogs of any age, submissive urination is most commonly seen in puppies and young female dogs. Owner intervention in the form of verbal reprimands or punishment, only serve to aggravate the problem by making the dog act even more submissively which leads to further urination. Any highly arousing event, particularly greeting behaviour and affection towards the dog can trigger excitement urination. These dogs may also be overly submissive, but are not necessarily so. How can submissive and excitement urination be treated? For submissive urination, it is important that the owner and all visitors interact with the pet in a less threatening manner. It is important to establish the level of threat which evokes the response and use this as a bench-mark from which to work. The pet should be allowed to approach the owner. The tendency to elicit submissive responses can be reduced by kneeling down and speaking softly, rather than standing over the dog ; petting the chest instead of the head, may also help. Physical punishment and even the mildest verbal reprimands must be avoided. In fact, owners who attempt to punish the pet for urinating submissively will make things worse, since this intensifies fearful and submissive behaviour. When greeting a very submissive dog, the owner may initially need to completely ignore it at this time, even to the extent of avoiding eye contact. Counter-conditioning can be very helpful in controlling submissive urination. The dog is taught to perform a behaviour that is not compatible with urinating, such as sitting for food or retrieving a toy when it greets someone. If the dog anticipates food or ball playing at each greeting, it is less likely to eliminate. For excitement urination, those stimuli that initiate the behaviour should be avoided. During greetings, owners and guests should refrain from eye contact, and verbal or physical contact until the pet calms down. Greetings should be very low key and

26

words spoken in a low, calm tone. Counter-conditioning, distraction techniques and drug therapy might be useful. Caution must be taken to only reward appropriate competing behaviours (e.g. sit up and beg, go lie on your mat, retrieving a ball). Inappropriate use or timing of rewards might further excite the dog and reinforce the problem behaviour. The use of drugs to increase bladder sphincter tone might also be considered as an adjunct to behaviour therapy, for refractory cases. Careful medical evaluation of the case is essential in such cases. Another important aspect of treating over-excitement to visitors, is repeated presentations of the stimulus so that the dog learns the correct response. If visitors come only infrequently, the dog does not have the opportunity to learn a new behaviour. By scheduling visitors to come, visit briefly, then leave by another door and re-enter, the dog may learn to be less excited and/or submissive with each entrance. Each time the person returns they are more familiar and less likely to stimulate the urination behaviour. This allows the dog to “practice” the good behaviour and reinforce the appropriate response. What medical problems could cause my dog to house-soil? There are numerous medical problems that could cause or contribute to house-soiling, and these become increasingly more common as the dog ages. Medical problems that cause an increased frequency of urination such as bladder infections, bladder stones or crystals, or bladder tumours, those that cause a decrease in control or mobility such as neurological deterioration or arthritis, and those that cause an increase in urine volume production such as kidney disease, liver disease, diabetes, or Cushing’s disease could all contribute to indoor elimination. Certain drugs such as steroids may also cause a dog to drink more and therefore urinate more. For dogs that defecate in the house, any condition that leads to more frequent defecation such as colitis, those that cause an increased volume of stool such as problems with absorption or lack of digestive enzymes, and those that affect the dog’s mobility or control such as arthritis or neurological deterioration must be ruled out. As dogs age, cognitive brain function declines and this may also contribute to indoor elimination. How can the cause of house-soiling be determined? For dogs that are house-soiling a physical examination and medical history are required first. For most cases a urinalysis and general blood profile will also be needed, and additional tests such as radiographs and contrast studies, may be indicated based on the results. If there is any abnormality in elimination frequency or amount, stool colour or consistency or urine odour, more comprehensive laboratory tests may be necessary. Once medical problems have been ruled out, it will then be necessary to methodically work through the potential causes listed above. This will involve a detailed history analysis How can house-soiling be treated? Training techniques for house-soiling dogs are virtually identical to those needed to housetrain a new puppy. However, even if house-soiling dogs are retrained to eliminate outdoors, indoor sites may continue to be used, since the odour, substrate,

27

and learned habit may continue to attract the dog back to the location. In addition, dogs that eliminate indoors are in essence, performing a self rewarding behaviour since they relieve themselves and do not perceive that the area they have used is inappropriate. The key to effective housetraining is constant supervision. Prevent access to indoor elimination sites. Mildly correct the pet, with a loud noise such as a whistle or hand clap if it is eliminating in an inappropriate location. This should effectively interrupt the behaviour and allow you to take it to a more appropriate location. Redirect the dog to appropriate areas at times when elimination is necessary. Reinforce the acceptable behaviour with lavish praise or food rewards when the dog eliminates in the designated area. If a word cue is used prior to each elimination-reward sequence, the dog may soon learn to eliminate on command. If you have trouble keeping the dog in sight leave a long indoor lead attached to the dog. This lead can also be used to deter any elimination or pre-elimination behaviours (such as sniffing, circling or squatting) in the act and to direct the dog to the appropriate area without delay. Whenever you are not available to supervise, the dog should be housed in either a confinement area where it does not eliminate (such as a bedroom, crate, or pen), or in an area where elimination is allowed (such as a dog run, papered pen or room, or outdoors). Your dog should not be allowed access to indoor sites where it has previously eliminated unless you are there to supervise. Access to these areas can be denied by closing doors, putting up baby gates or occasionally by booby trapping the areas. Odours that might attract the pet back to the area can be reduced or removed with commercial odour eliminators. Be certain to use a sufficient amount of the odour eliminator to reach everywhere that the urine has soaked. It may help to feed the dog from the cleaned area. Feeding schedules can be regulated to improve owner control over the situation. After a dog eats, it will usually need to eliminate in 15-30 minutes. Dogs fed ad lib or by free access usually need to relieve themselves at a variety of times throughout the day whereas dogs that eat one or two scheduled meals each day void in a more predictable manner. It may therefore help to move the dog onto a scheduled meal system. Feeding a low-residue diet may also be of benefit because the dog often has less urgency to defecate and produces less stool. If the dog has reduced control due to its physical health, scheduling changes may need to be made. Some owners may be able to arrange their schedules so that more frequent trips to the elimination area can be provided. If the owner cannot accommodate the dog’s decreased control, installing a doggy door, or providing a papered area may be necessary. Alternatively a dog walker, or dog crèche may need to be considered. When age related cognitive decline is suspected, therapeutic intervention may be an essential complement to retraining techniques. The dog that eliminates in its crate poses special problems and is likely to require specialist treatment.

28


HOUSE-SAFETY: CONFINEMENT AND CRATE TRAINING In what circumstances do dogs need to be confined? Dogs are highly social animals that make wonderful pets. They can be effective as watchdogs, are excellent companions for play and exercise, and are sources of affection and comfort. However, with the lifestyle and schedule of the majority of families, dogs must learn to spend a portion of the day at home, while their human family is away at school, work, shopping or recreational activities. During those times when the owner is away and unavailable to supervise, the pet may still feel the need to chew, play, explore, eat, or eliminate. Preventing such inappropriate behaviours when you are absent involves ensuring that the pet has had the opportunity to play, eat, and eliminate before you leave it and then keeping the pet in a confined area where it is secure, safe, and can do no damage to itself or your possessions in your absence but still has something to do in this area. What are my options for confinement? Depending on the structure of your home, it may be possible to dog-proof the house by closing a few doors, or putting up some child gates. The dog can then be allowed access to the remaining areas of the house. If dog-proofing in this way is not possible when you have to leave, then you may feel it necessary to confine the dog to a single room, pen, or crate. This smaller confinement area not only provides safety for the dog and protection of the home from damage, but also provides a means of teaching the dog what it is supposed to chew, and where it is supposed to eliminate. Isn’t crate training cruel? Crate training is neither cruel nor unfair. On the contrary, leaving the dog unsupervised to wander, investigate, destroy, and perhaps injure itself is far more inhumane than confinement. However the crate needs to be used in the correct way and as with any product it is open to misuse. You must ensure that the crate is large enough for your particular dog, you must ensure that the dog gets sufficient food, play, exercise and attention before it is confined, and you must return before the dog needs to urinate or defecate. What are the benefits of crate training? The two most important benefits are the safety it affords the pet, and the damage that is prevented. The crate also provides a place of security; a comfortable retreat where the dog can relax, sleep, or chew on a favourite toy. By confining the pet to a crate or room, when the owner is not available to supervise, behaviour problems can be immediately prevented. When you are at home, supervision and rewards can be used to prevent undesirable behaviour, and to teach the dog where to eliminate, what to chew, and what rooms and areas are "out of bounds". Will crate confinement help with house-training?

29

Yes. Crate training is one of the quickest and most effective ways to house-train a dog. Since most dogs instinctively avoid eliminating in their sleeping and eating areas, dogs that use their crate as a bed or "den" will seldom eliminate inside unless they have been left in the crate for too long. Crate training can also help teach the dog to develop control over its elimination. What about crating and travel? There are periods in a dog's life when it may need to be confined, for example when travelling or boarding. Those dogs that are familiar and comfortable with crating are more likely to feel secure, and far less stressed, should crating be required.

PUPPY CRATE TRAINING

What type of crate or confinement area works best? A metal, collapsible crate with a tray floor works well, as long as the crate is large enough for the dog to stand, turn, and stretch out. Some dogs feel more secure if a blanket is draped over the crate. A plastic travelling crate or a home-made crate can also be used. Playpens or child gates across doorways may also be successful as long as they are indestructible and escape proof. Where should the crate be located? Because dogs are social animals, an ideal location for the crate is a room where the family spends a lot of time such as the kitchen or living room rather than an isolated utility room. How can crate or confinement become a positive experience? Most dogs quickly choose a small area, such as a corner of a room, a dog bed, or close to a sofa, where they go to relax. The key to making the crate the dog's favourite retreat and sleeping area, is to associate the crate with as many positive and relaxing experiences and stimuli as possible (food, treats, chew toys, bedding) and to place the dog in its crate only at scheduled rest and sleep periods. You must therefore be aware of the dog’s routine, including its needs for exploration, play, food, and elimination, so that the dog is only placed in its crate, when each of these needs is fulfilled. You must then return to the dog to release it from its crate before the next exercise, feeding or elimination period is due. A radio or television playing in the background may help to calm the dog when it is alone in its crate, especially during the daytime. Background noise may also help to mask environmental noises which can stimulate the dog to vocalise.

THE CRATE SHOULD NEVER BE USED AS PUNISHMENT. How do I crate-train my new puppy? 1.Introduce the puppy to the crate as soon as it is brought home and as early in the day as possible. Place a variety of treats in the crate throughout the day so that the puppy is encouraged to enter voluntarily. Food, water, toys and bedding could also be offered to the puppy in the open crate.

30

2. Choose a location outdoors for the puppy to eliminate. Take the puppy to the location, wait until the puppy eliminates, and reward the puppy lavishly with praise or food. After some additional play and exercise, place the puppy in its crate with water, a toy and a treat. If the puppy is relaxed in the crate then you may close the door. 3. If the puppy is tired and calm, it may take a "nap" shortly after being placed in its crate. 4. Leave the room, but remain close enough to hear the puppy. Escape behaviour and vocalisation are to be expected when a dog is first placed into its crate. If the “complaints” are short or mild, ignore the dog until the crying stops. If the puppy is showing panic when the door of the crate is closed you need to spend more time on point one. Never release the puppy unless it is quiet. This teaches that quiet behaviour, and not crying will be rewarded. Release the puppy after a just a few minutes of quiet or a short nap. 5. Repeat the crate and release procedure. Each time, increase the time that the puppy must stay in the crate before letting it out. Always give the puppy exercise and a chance to eliminate before shutting it in the crate. 6. If the pup sleeps in one end of its crate and eliminates in the other, a divider can be installed to keep the puppy in a smaller area. 7. Never leave the puppy in its crate for longer than it can control itself or it may be forced to eliminate in the crate. 8. If the pup must be left for long periods during which it might eliminate, it should be confined to a larger area such as a dog-proof room, with paper left down for elimination. As the puppy gets older, its control will increase and it can be left longer in its crate. 9. Although there is a great deal of individual variability, many puppies can control themselves through the night by 3 months of age. During the daytime, once the puppy has relieved itself, a 2-month old puppy may have up to 3 hours control, a 3-month puppy up to 4 hours, and a 4 month old puppy up to 5 hours. 10. A crate is not an excuse to ignore the dog and should NEVER be used for prolonged periods!

CRATE TRAINING ADULT DOGS

What is the best technique for crate training older pets and adult dogs? 1. For adult dogs or older puppies that have not been crate trained previously, set up the crate in the dog's feeding area with the door open for a few days. Place food, treats, and water in the crate so that the dog enters the crate on its own. Another alternative is to place the crate in the dog's sleeping area with its bedding. Once the dog is entering the crate freely, it is time to close the door.

31

2. Using the same training techniques as for "sit and stay" training, the dog should enter its crate for short periods of time to obtain food, treats, or chew toys. Once the pet expects treats each time it enters the crate, train the dog to enter the crate on cue (e.g. bed!), and remain in the crate for progressively longer periods of time, before being allowed to exit. Give small rewards each time the dog enters the crate at first, and give the dog a favourite chew toy or some food to help make the stay more enjoyable. At first, the door can remain opened during these training sessions. 3. When the dog is capable of staying comfortably and quietly in the crate begin to shut the door at night. Once the dog sleeps in the crate through the night, try leaving the pet in the crate during the daytime. Try short departures first, and gradually make them longer. Is crate training practical for all dogs? Some dogs may not tolerate crate training, and may continue to show anxiety, or even eliminate when confined. These dogs may adapt better to other types of confinement such as a small room. Of course, if the dog is being left alone for longer than it can control its elimination, it will be necessary to provide an area much larger than a crate, so that the pet has a location in which to eliminate, away from its food and bedding. Continued anxiety, destruction or vocalisation when placed in the crate may indicate severe behaviour problems and in these cases the use of the crate should be discontinued and advice sort from your veterinary surgeon or behaviourist.

32


DESTRUCTIVE BEHAVIOUR – DIGGING Why do dogs dig? Digging behaviour in dogs can have many motivations. Some breeds, such as the Northern breeds (Huskies, Malamutes) dig cooling holes and lie in them and indeed on a very hot summer day any dog may dig a hole to cool off. Breeds such as the terriers have been bred to flush out prey or dig for rodents. With their ability to hear high frequency sounds, and their highly acute sense of smell, they dig as a direct result of smells or sounds such as voles and moles that attract them from beneath the ground. Pregnant bitches dig when nesting and dogs dig to bury or retrieve bones. Dogs also dig to escape from confinement and digging can be seen as an activity similar to destructive chewing that occurs when pets are left alone with insufficient stimulation or attention. How can I determine why my dog is digging? The first step in treating inappropriate digging behaviour is to determine the reason for the digging. Reducing your dog’s motivation to dig, and providing for all of its basic behavioural needs is obviously essential in order to prevent the situation where the digging is merely redirected to a new location. Inhibiting or preventing all digging, without understanding and dealing with the dog’s motivation, could result in new behaviour problems such as chewing, excessive vocalisation, or escape behaviours. Dogs that dig because they are pursuing prey will continue unless you can get rid of the prey. Dogs that dig in an attempt to get cool should be provided with a cool resting area with plenty of shade and water and on very hot days, it may be best to bring your dog inside. Where digging is an indication of not enough exercise and owner attention, additional play and exercise times may be needed. This is especially true if your dog is young and very active. Dogs that continue to dig may require additional stimulation to keep them occupied when the owners are not around. If your dog is outside all day and digging is taking place, you do need to ask yourself if you are providing for all of his behavioural needs. This is particularly true for the dog that digs to escape from the yard or confinement area. If you are keeping your dog outside for long periods because of house-soiling problems or unacceptable destruction in the house, then you need to address these problems. How can I stop inappropriate digging? a) Provide a digging area For some dogs it may be useful for you to create an area where the dog is allowed to dig. This could be a specific location in the garden where you have placed soft top soil to encourage digging. It helps to clearly define the area with borders so the dog can distinguish it from the rest of the garden and then you will need to make this a place where your dog would like to dig. Bury things there that your pet would like to dig up, for example food treats or toys. To begin with the treats should be lightly covered to encourage your pet to find them and gradually you should move to placing them deeper into the ground. If you do that (naturally when your dog is not

33

watching!) at irregular intervals, your dog should be more likely to dig there, than other locations in your garden. Another option is to allow the dog to dig in a spot which it has already chosen, and to prevent digging in other locations by supervision and/or confinement. b) Supervision and punishment Supervision and direct intervention can be used to prevent inappropriate digging in the owner’s presence, but the behaviour is likely to continue in the owner’s absence. Remote punishment (e.g. turning on a sprinkler), booby traps (placing rocks or water in the area where the pet digs), or covering the surface with one that is impervious (asphalt/patio stones) might teach the pet to avoid the digging site even in the owner's absence, but none of these techniques will prevent the pet from digging in other locations. What else can be done if inappropriate digging continues when I am not around to supervise? When you are unavailable to supervise your dog, housing the dog indoors is the most practical solution until he or she has learned to stay outdoors without digging. If you would like to continue to leave your dog outdoors, it is best to confine it to an area such as a pen or run, so that it has no access to the digging areas. The run should be inescapable, and could be covered with gravel, patio tiles or have an asphalt or concrete floor so that the dog cannot dig. Of course it will be necessary to provide sufficient exercise and stimulation before confining the dog and to also supply an adequate number of treats and play toys in the run to keep the dog occupied. Another alternative is to provide an area within the pen or run where digging is allowed.

34

With Compliments of Cedarmount Veterinary Clinic

Spaying and Neutering!!!Neutered pets often live longer and can make better companions. If not intended for breeding, we recommend that male dogs are neutered at 6-7 months of age and bitches are spayed between 5 and 6 months of age. Most of the objections put forward against neutering are unfounded worries. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact us for further advice/reassurance. In dogs neutering will:

• Stop or reduce male sex hormone driven behavior (mounting, urine marking). • Reduce wandering / roaming / straying (also reducing car accidents). • Reduce prostatic disease – something very common in older entire dogs. • Remove the risk of testicular cancer (especially common in retained testicles). • Reduce some hormonally driven aggression • Reduce the number of unwanted puppies – (NI still has far more stray dogs

unnecessarily put to sleep than any other region of the UK). Neutered dogs have less well-developed musculature, but will only get fat if you overfeed them! We strongly recommend a diet designed for the neutered dog and can advise at the time of the operation – these diets really work! In bitches; Neutering at 5-6months of age, just before the first season, has been, and continues to be, our practice policy. It is now becoming common practice world-wide with many respected veterinary associations recommending pre-pubertal spaying as young as 8 weeks, although we aren’t yet going that young! Early neutering definitely will:

• Dramatically reduce the risk of breast cancer, which remains a big killer of entire bitches.

• Stop unwanted heat / seasons – the inconvenience of three weeks of bleeding per vagina, the attractiveness to male dogs, and the tendency to escape to “find the boys” with the attendant increased risk of road traffic accidents.

• Reduce the risk of false pregnancies, a common and distressing condition. • Remove the risk of pyometra – a life threatening womb infection very

common in older or middle aged entire bitches. • Reduce the number of unwanted puppies – (NI still has far more stray dogs

unnecessarily put to sleep than any other region of the UK). But may:

• Increase the likelihood of obesity: it is vitally important that neutered bitches are fed an appropriate diet – again we can advise at the time of the operation. The specialist “neutered diet”, which is designed for spayed bitches has the appropriate calorie and nutrient adjustments built in, and genuinely makes

35

them feel full longer, reducing begging and over-eating behaviours. Neutered bitches can only get fat if you overfeed them!

• Increase the severity of any urinary leakage problem: urinary incontinence occurs in entire bitches too as they age, and can be managed by drops, tablets or in very rare, extreme cases, by surgical procedures. It may be potentially more difficult to treat if in an overweight and neutered patient.

Set against all the benefits, most vets believe these negative points are outweighed and the risks are acceptable. We have all had to treat bitches in pain with breast cancer, and eventually had to put many to sleep because of untreatable spread. Breast cancer and womb infections in bitches should be diseases of the past – they are prevented by early neutering!

36

with compliments of cedarmount veterinary clinic puppy pack … · behaviour such as bin raiding,...

Documents