Introduction to theWorld of Wines

of the Carpathian-Basin

Dr. J. Csuták wine-knightLEONARDO MEETING

Cracow, 30. Jan.- 1. Feb. 2015.

Motto:

„ Wine preparation in the Carpathian-Basin is not only a tradition, but also the valuation of the civilization, as well.”

(G. Csávossy)

Some specific data to be considered

1. Only in Hungary, there are some thousands of winemakers in functionon average, calculating only with five different types of

wines/person, result can reach 10,000 individual wines

2. Min. 5 minutes necessary to introduce a given wine

3. These together mean: more than 50,000 minutes would be needed to create a

detailed picture of Hungarian wines (=833,3 hours=37,4 days)

4. … and where are data of the other countries, yet?!

5. During this short period given for me, I can only give you a short introduction to, or present some selection of wines from Carpathian-Basin to

demonstrate them.

6. This is, why I gave the title of my presentation only:

„Introduction to …”

Wine-producing countries in the Carpathian-Basin

AHU

SK

SRBCR

RO

UA

Characteristics of the Carpathian-Basin from point of view of wine production – 1. Ecology

• Grape/wine production is dated back to Celtics (VI. Century B.C.)

• UNIFORMITY: apart from high rocky mountains all of regions are suitable for wine production

• DIVERSIFICATION: great variance in ecology of the individual wine producing regions

Characteristics of the Carpathian-Basin … 2. General aspects can be shown in all countries

• Both native/traditional and new varieties can be produced with success

• A great number of grape varieties• Many kinds of wines produced• Generally good, but in a lot of cases

excellent quality of wines can be reached • Special kinds of wines characteristic for

some given individual regions are prepared

• However, wines are individual, they are well marketable in the national and international wine-market

Characteristics of the Carpathian-Basin…3. New efforts in selection

• Apart from the well known types (Cabernets, Merlot, Pinots, Chardonnay, Rieslings, etc.), continuous selection of new international varieties of grapes is in progress in all countries of the C.-B. e.g.: • Shiraz HU, CR, A, RO, etc.• Blauburger HU, A• Dornfelder HU, A, SK• Neuburger RO• Etc.

Characteristics of the Carpathian-Basin … 4. Respect of traditions in grape growing

• Renaissance of the native varieties, e.g.:[Original varieties from different regions of the Carpathian-Basin cultivated mainly before Phylloxera]

• Furmint – spreading of in different regions.• Somló HU • Syrmium SRB• Transylvanian-Hegyalja RO

• Mézes fehér [honey-white]: SK HU RO SRB• Bakator: HU RO SRB• Járdován: HU RO• Kövidika: HU RO• Kéknyelű (Blue-steem) HU• Ezerfürtű (Thousand bunchy) SK

Characteristics of the Carpathian-Basin … 5. Respect of traditions in grape growing

• Some new national varieties hybridised in the countries:

• Neuburger A

• Irsai, Cserszegi Fűszeres, etc. HU

• Pálava, Devín, Musc. Morva, Dunaj, Alibernet SK

• Hercules, Nausica, Feteasca Regala RO

Wine growing regions of the Hungarian Kingdom

1. Syrmium

2. Balaton-v.

3. Szekszárd

4.Somló

5. Ruszt-Sopron

6. Buda

7. Arad

9. Pozsony

10. Mátra-Mount.

11. Érmellék

12. Minddle Transylvania

8. Baranyai

In the middle age especially known: Szerémség (Syrmium);

Red points of the map: settlements of wine producing regions in the XIX. Century

Development of wine-growing regions in the Carpathian-Basin in the Middle Age

Wine-growing Map of the Carpathian-Basin in the XIX. Century

Wine-growing regions of Hungary

Special wine producing regions called… -Hegyalja

1

23

Tokaj-HegyaljaGrape:Furmint, Hárslevelű, Muscat Ottonel, Zeta, Kabar, KövérWines:- Dry vines of the grape

varieties- Samorodni- Tokay (aszu)- Nectar- Fordítás („turn over”)- Máslás („copy)

Transylvanian-HegyaljaGrapes: Princess, „Little Girl”, Furmint, Kövér, Traminer Red Traminer, Pinot Grise, Italian Riesling, Rhein Riesling, Muscat Ottonel, Sauvignon blanc, Neuburger, JárdovánWines:- White vines (dry and sweet)- Plébános (traditional cuvée)- Rózsamáli (from a given teerroire

called Rózsamáli

Arad-HegyaljaGrapes: Muscat Ottonel, Princess, Mustos from Magyarád, Bakator, Italyan Riesling, Cabernet sauvignon, Pinot noir, Merlot, Kadarka, Kékfrankos etc.Wines: mainly red wines of Hungarian varieties (Kékfrankos, Kadarka) and international ones, but traditional Hungarian White wine is Mustos from Magyarád, Bakator, etc.

Some new trends and customs in grape growing and wine production technologies

International varieties v. s. own varieties of grape

Spread of terroire approach – individual winesReductive technology - Fresh, fruity-flavoured

wines came into fashionBarrique technology in wine preparationIncreased consumption of red wines and

decreased of white onesIncreased requirement for quality winesFollowing impact of wines on the human health

with special attention (scientific research)

Wines to be mentioned. 1. White winesWines Region Features of wines

Neuburger(Austrian origin)

Transylvanian Hegyalja, Romania

Semi-sweet quite robust wine with a neutral taste. The young versions have spicy and flowery flavour. Later a nutty flavour develops.

Hárslevelű Syrmia (Szerémség, Serbia)

Native variety in the Carpathian-B. The wine is dense, bulky with definite spicy ad fragrant flavour. In adequate condition it easy produces aszú.

Wines to be tested. 1. White wines

Wines Region Features of wines

TisicstracovéEzerjóThousend Bunchy2013.

East-SlovakiaKarsticumJabl.n.TurnauIgnácz-Winary

The wine is from the biggest karst territory of Middle Europe where its grape was cultivated according to real bio-product technology. Tis technology together the specific soil and ecology conditions provide a unique character of this wine which is not only reminiscent of wine making tradition but also shows results of the new wine-creating efforts, as well.

Wines to be tested. 1. White wines

Wines Region Features of wines

Furmint 2012Árvay

Tokay-Hegyalja, Hungary(Hungarian origin, native grape) - Hungaricum

Dry wine with a good acidic balance, with complex flavours derived from phenolic compounds in the juice, with aroma like from pears and lime and from brief contact of must with the grape skins during its pressing and filtering.

Furmint 2013Sajgó

Tokay-Hegyalja, Hungary(Hungarian origin, native grape) – Hungaricum

Traditional Tokay-wine with well known Character of Furmint. Beside its complex flavour of Furmint, individual signs also appear in after taste.

Special white cuvée from Eger regionEger Star: for the first time it was created in 2010

The aim was: to establish a white wine adequate to Bull Blood

It contains the best types of white wines in the Carpathian-Basin:Base: Italyan Riesling, Hárslevelű, Leányka (Little Girl) Zengő, Zenit = 50%Additive sweet smelling or spicy vines in max. 30 %: Cserszegi fűszeres Zefir, Irsai, Tramini, Muscat Ottonel

Special red cuvée from Eger region

Bull-Blood : One of the most famous Hungarian red wites 75-85 ezer Hl/Y.

It can be prepared only using special red wines from grapes grown in Regipn Eger and/or Verpelét. Ruby wine with spicy flavor and fruity taste. Generally bulky wine with harmonized acids. It has velvety appearance with dry taste.Its possible preparation ways are regulated in ministerial order. B-B. at least should be composed of three different kinds of red wines (generally 4-5), prepared wine must be mellowed in oak barrels. It should be marketed only after 1. November of the first year after the grape harvest.

Wines to be presented. 2. Rosée and red winesWines Region Features of wines

Kékfrankos rosée 2013.The rising Sun

Hungary, Sopron MountainsWell known blue-grape of Sopron Region

The wine has fruity fragrancy and flavour together with some tannins. Well drinkable with good acidic balance

Mátrai rosée, Excellent 2013.Ludányi

North Hungary, Mátra hills

This wine made with fast processing of the black grapes, is unique in its sparkling freshness of flavour. This light, pleasant and elegant wine is faintly red with a spicy, fruity bouquet and aroma.

Wines to be tested. 2. Red wines

Wines Region Features of wines

DornfelderGerman origin

East-SlovakiaKarsticumJabl.n.TurnauIgnácz-Winary

Deep colored dry wine with good acidity and with flavor of different spicy-vegetables from kitchen garden. It has a velvet texture.

Portugiser, 2014 Lelovits

Villány– Hungaryprotected origin

Deep colored semi-dry or dry wine with harmonized, however week acidity. Its an impertinently young wine with surprisingly fruity flavor. Although, it is a real red wine, at the same time it is also ethereal one.

Wines to be tested. 2. Red wines

Wines Region Features of wines

Kékfrankos 2013 Frittmann

Hungarian Great Plain

Velvety harsh, full-bodiedred wine of characteristic taste with well balanced acids.

Kékfrankos 2013Vida

Szekszárd – Hungaryprotected origin

Due to its wonderful complex taste, Kékfrankos is one of the most important variety of Szekszárd region. Its fruity and richness in fragrancies create such a harmony which guarantees intimate pleasant and romantic dinners.

Wines to be tested. 2. Red wines

Wines Region Features of wines

Kadarka2012Sagmaister

Syrmium SRB

Due to history of this variety, Kadarka today is a real Hungaricum. However, it originates from the Middle East, so far independent, well characterized native clones have created. And what about the wine! To taste, not speak about it, please!

Red Harmony from Eger 2013 Korona

North HungaryEger

This wine is a cuvee of different red wines of the historical wine producing region of Eger. All members of this composition was created with reductive fermentation technology.Features of this wine are collected in his name: Harmony

Wine producing regions of presented white wines from Syrmium and Transylvania

Transylvanian-”Hegyalja”Neuburger

(RO)

Syrmium (Srb)Hárslevelű and

Kadarka

Wine producing regions of presented white and red wines from Slovakia

Szádalmás/Jablonov n. TurnouThousand bunchy (Ezerfürtű)

and Dornfelder

Hungarian wine producing regions of presented wines

Tokaj-Hegyalja2 Furmints

Szekszárd Kékfrankos

Sopron-MountainsKékfrankos rosé

EgerBull-Blood and

Star of Eger, Harmony

Mátra-MountainsExcellent

rosee

Great PlainSoltvarkert Kékfrankos

VillányPortugiser

Thank you for your kind attention