wine journalJanua r y/Febr ua r y 2016

A B C F I N E W I N E & S P I R I T S W I N E M A G A Z I N E

BERGEVIN LANE BRINGS THE BOOM IN WASHINGTON WINES

German Riesling isn’t just for somms anymore

Deconstructing Valentine’s Day wines

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The ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Journal is a bimonthly publication of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. Copyright 2016 ABC Liquors, Inc. All rights reserved.

Not all products are available in all stores. If the product you’re looking for isn’t available, ask us to order it for you! Allie Smallwood Editor allies@abcfws.com Meghan Guarino Contributing Editor meghang@abcfws.com OUR WINE EXPERTS:

Jim Greeley Southwest Florida Wine and Spirits Supervisor

Shayne Hebert Central Florida Wine and Spirits Supervisor

Atanas Nechkov Central Florida Wine and Spirits Supervisor

Paul Quaglini Southeast Florida Wine and Spirits Supervisor

Bill Stobbs West Florida Wine and Spirits Supervisor

Dan Eddy Northeast Florida Wine and Spirits Supervisor

Heather Burton East Florida Wine and Spirits Supervisor If you would like to ensure you’re receiving the Wine Journal each time it’s published, send an email to Jennifer Baker (JenniferB@abcfws.com) and we’ll add you to the “always mail” list.

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BERGEVIN LANEThe essence of Washington wine shines at Bergevin Lane.

TOAST TO PRESIDENT’S DAYOur nation’s history is steeped in more than just tea.

INDULGE IN SOME HIDDEN TREASURESLife is short. Drink good wine.

HEARTY SOUPS & HEARTIER WINEPut Alaskan seafood chowder and buttery Chardonnays on your to-do list.

VALENTINE’S DAY MADE SIMPLEThe best picks for a night of sweet, sweet wine loving.

THE BLACK WINE OF CAHORSThe oldest vineyards in France yield mesmerizing Malbec.

DO YOU WANT TO BUILD A CELLAR PART II: THE INTERMEDIATEWe think you’re ready for level two of cellar expertise.

EDUCATION NEVER TASTED SO FINEA magical evening of eats, drinks and brain power at Taste for Learning.

GERMAN RIESLING – A DRY REVELATIONFew other wines reflect the beauty of terroir like this gem.

WINE TO WATCH: AÑO VERDE PINOT NOIRA Californian offering light in body but impactful on the palate.

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“Anyone who tries to make you believe that

he knows all about wines is obviously a fake.” - Leon Adams, The Commonsense Book of Wine

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Bergevin Lane

M E G H A N G U A R I N O • @ A B C W I N E C O U N T R Y • M E G H A N G @ A B C F W S . C O M

alla Walla, Washington, a small town

of about 31,000 people (according to the

2010 census), is situated in the southeast

corner of the state, just north of the Oregon

border. In fact, the township is so close to

the border that the Walla Walla AVA slips

into Oregon for the warmest growing areas

of the designated region, a place where

Syrah grows particularly well.

The area north of the border, however, is

considered responsible for the initial boom

in Washington wines. It is here, in the heart

of Walla Walla, that Bergevin Lane found its

home in 2002.

“It was a dream of mine to move back home

to Walla Walla,” co-founder Annette Ber-

gevin told me one afternoon. With a father

deep in the business of grapes (he helped

launch the vineyard side of Canoe Ridge

Vineyards nearly 28 years ago) and a home

in Sonoma County, it was only a matter

of time before Annette longed to open a

winery herself. “I kind of did all of life’s

major changes in one fell swoop,” she said of

returning home. “I sold a house, did a major

relocation and decided to have a baby,” all

while diving right into opening a winery

that would go on to produce highly-rated

wines from a booming wine region in the U.S.

Cabernet Sauvignon is the most widely

planted grape varietal in Walla Walla,

though Merlot makes up at least a quarter

of the vineyards with a number of red and

white varietals filling out the AVA. At Ber-

gevin Lane, the wines are made up of grapes

from several vineyards across the state. “We

have this huge spread of terroir that we can

play with back at the winery,” Dave said,

explaining that the winery sources grapes

from three separate vineyards exclusive to

Bergevin Lane and cares for their own estate

vineyard as well. The differences in soil and

location alone are enough to give the team

a wide palette to work with when blending

their wines, while maintaining a uniquely

Washington profile throughout.

And that is what makes Bergevin Lane a

winery you must explore. The wines crafted

there are so quintessentially “Washington”

that with a single sip you are suddenly en-

veloped in the character, charm and flavor of

the state. “It’s that natural acidity,” winemak-

er Dave Harvey told me when I asked what

defined a Washington wine. “You can make

acidity—you can put acidity in your wines—

but there’s this balance between malic and

tartaric and citric acid that you really

can’t replicate.”

He attributes the balanced natural acidity

to the diurnal shift in temperature in the

region. Walla Walla is known for its hot days

and cool evenings. Annette explained, “We

have 300 days of sun per year; our diurnal

shift is some of the most dramatic fluctua-

tions of any wine region in the world. We

can have up to a 40 degree difference in

temperatures from our highs to our lows in

a day, and that gives us ripe sugars and crisp

acidity. It all adds to the wonderful aspects

of the grapes.”

While Annette and Dave are happy to attri-

bute the success of Bergevin Lane largely to

the sumptuous fruit available, the Washing-

ton wine industry itself cannot be overlooked.

Revived in the 1970s, this industry continues

to see rapid growth and interest among wine

drinkers everywhere.

“If you would have asked me 20 years ago

where we were going to be, or 10 years ago,

I wouldn’t have come up with the scenario

we are seeing in reality,” Dave said. “The

growth has been explosive.” It is true that

the growth is in part due to the grapes, but

a lot of it has to do with the people behind

the wines. Concentrating on the craft and

making wines better, bolder, more balanced

and chalk-full of Washington has earned

the region the attention it deserves. “It’s this

continual raising of the bar,” Dave said. “And

that’s not just for Bergevin Lane, it’s for the

whole industry in Washington. Everybody

has that same philosophy. Nobody’s resting

on their laurels here.”

For a taste of Washington’s burgeoning

industry, try Bergevin Lane wines, available

at ABC Fine Wine & Spirits locations across

the state.

W

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RED BAROLO Cabutto Barolo Vigna La Volta 2011 (p 13) DOLCETTO Chionetti San Luigi Dolcetto di Dogliani (p 6) MALBEC Château de Haute-Serre Malbec 2010 (p 11) Gouleyant Malbec (p 11) Icône of Château de Haute-Serre 2009 (p 10) NERO D’AVOLA Caruso & Minini Nero d’Avola (p 6)

PINOT NOIR Año Verde Pinot Noir (p 16) Domaine Dubois Nuits-Saint- Georges 2012 (p 12) PORT Serafino Tawny Port (p 9) SANGIOVESE La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino 2009 (p 13) RED BLEND Apulia’s Anarkos Primitivo Blend (p 9) Château Gigognan Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Clos du Roi’ 2012 (p 13) Clos Floridène Rouge 2010 (p 12) La Gravette De Certan 2010 (p 12) Les Chênes de Macquin 2011 (p 12) Pauillac de Lynch-Bages 2010 (p 12) Podere Sapaio Bolgheri Superior 2006 (p 6) Xavier Vins Gigondas 2010 (p 13) NAPA ZINFANDEL Ca’ Momi Zinfandel (p 9)

WHITE CHARDONNAY Fault Line Chardonnay (p 7) Maison Champy Pernand-Vergelesses 2012 (p 13)

RIESLING PJ Valckenberg Weingut Liebfrauenstift Dry Riesling (p 13, 15) Schloss Reinhartshausen Old Vines Dry Riesling (p 15) Selbach Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken (p 15) Selbach Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese (p 13)

WHITE BLEND Bai Gorri White Rioja (p 7) Cascina Chicco Arneis Cru Anterisio- Arneis (p 6) Domaine des Sénéchaux Châteauneuf- de-Pape Blanc (p 7) Ghiraldi “Il Gruccione” Lugana (p 6) L’Esprit de Chevalier White 2010 (p 12) SPARKLING Faubourg 21 Brut Chardonnay (p 8) Faubourg 21 Premier Rosé (p 8) Giorgi Costarosa (p 8) Giorgi Pink Platino (p 8) Giorgi Platino Brut (p 8)

WINE LIST

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A Toast to President’s Day and a Salute to Wine in American History!

ine has been with us in American history

from the very beginning of western colonization.

Five hundred years before the era of Christopher

Columbus, when Leif Eriksson explored coastal

North America, he named it Vínland because

of the many grapevines he encountered there.

It is also rumored that the real reason the pilgrims

dropped anchor at Plymouth Rock was not

because of its fine location but because they had

run out of alcohol aboard ship.

Be that as it may, wine played an important part

in the daily life of American colonists, where it

was regarded as a healthful cure-all, a warmer-

upper in cold weather, a pick-me-up, and a

contributor to stimulating conversation. It was

also considered (and probably was at the time)

healthier to drink than water.

Madeira, the fortified wine from the Portuguese

island off the coast of Morocco, was the favorite

wine of the American colonists and remained

so right up to the time of the American Civil

War. In fact the American colonies consumed

as much as one-quarter of all the wine produced

on the island each year. Five years before the

Boston Tea Party there was a similar uproar

when British authorities seized John Hancock’s

sloop the Liberty and unloaded 3,150 gallons

of Madeira because of unpaid import duties.

An idea of just how important wine was to

Americans at the time is suggested by the bill

presented to the draftees of the Declaration of

Independence at a gathering to celebrate the

signing. The bill was for 54 bottles of Madeira,

60 bottles of Claret (Bordeaux), 22 bottles of

port, 8 bottles of whiskey, 8 bottles of hard cider,

12 beers and 7 bowls of alcoholic punch large

enough that “ducks could swim in them.” And

this was all for 56 delegates!

George Washington loved wine in general and

Madeira in particular. It is reported that he

drank a bottle of Madeira a day, and at parties

and dances would easily consume four bottles of

wine. Other beverages also won his favor. After

retiring from politics he returned to Mount

Vernon and built first a brewery, and then a

distillery that became, at the time, the largest

producer of whiskey in the U.S.

Thomas Jefferson was well-known as a wine

aficionado. In fact, much of the Declaration of

Independence was written by Jefferson in a

tavern in Philadelphia while sipping on Madeira.

As ambassador to France in the 1780s he gained

a deep appreciation for the wines of France,

Italy, Spain and Portugal and, apart from all else,

became wine advisor to George Washington,

James Madison and James Monroe. During his

years as president he had a wine cellar built be-

neath the White House and stocked it with over

20,000 bottles, spending $11,000 (which would

be about $200,000 today) on wine. Jefferson was

also an important pioneer in the cultivation of

fine wine in America, though unfortunately

he was not very successful.

Special mention should also be given to John

Quincy Adams who enjoyed wine so much that

he once named 11 out of 14 Madeiras correctly

in a blind taste test.

Moving up to more recent times, Lyndon B.

Johnson was the first American president to

exclusively pour American wine at the White

House. Richard Nixon reluctantly followed suit

though he much preferred Château Margaux

and Bernkasteller Doktor which was always

served to him in a napkin-covered bottle while

the rest of the party drank indifferent California

wine. Finally, Ronald Reagan was a keen

supporter of the American wine industry.

He was the first president to serve American

sparkling wine (Schramsberg Blanc de Blanc

1969) instead of Champagne. He was also the

first president to pour Zinfandel (Boeger) at an

official event, and he was well-known for his

admiration of the wines of Beaulieu Vineyards,

Sterling and Stag’s Leap.

So this President’s Day, whether it’s Madeira,

Château Margaux or Beaulieu Vineyards, please

raise a glass of wine to honor our illustrious

American presidents. They might very well

have done the same for you!

B I L L S T O B B S • @ A B C W I N E B I L L S • W S T O B B S @ A B C F W S . C O M

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Indulge in Some HIDDEN TREASURES

P A U L Q U A G L I N I • @ A B C W I N E P A U L Q • P A U L Q @ A B C F W S . C O M

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nce again I find myself at the start of a new

year wondering what happened to the last one.

It’s easy to feel melancholic about the fact that

time is fleeting, especially if Willie Nelson’s

soulful song, “Funny how time slips away” is

your background music of choice. But enough

of that despaired talk; rather than lament the

inevitable we should all use this as a rationality

to celebrate life to its fullest each and every day.

For me, celebrating life includes trying as many

unique and inspiring wines as I can. You can

fill in the blank with just about any corny cliché

but life truly is too short to drink bad wine.

After all, that is what wine ultimately should be:

one of life’s gratifying indulgences.

The following is a short list of some Italian

hidden treasures that you might have missed

in 2015.

Cascina Chicco Arneis Cru Anterisio – Arneis

(are-NAYS) is, for my taste, the best of the dry

white wines from the Piedmont region of Italy.

In the local dialect it translates as “Little Rascal”

because it is notoriously difficult to grow. By

the early 1970s it was on the verge of extinction

with only a handful of producers determined

to produce quality Arneis.

Today there is an explosion of interest in this

fussy, hard-to-grow grape variety. Cascina

Chicco’s Arneis is a fragrant wine with notes of

apricots and apples followed by notes of cham-

omile and spice in the mouth. Well balance

with good complexity and a lingering finish.

I can’t get enough of this little rascal. $23

Ghiraldi “Il Gruccione” Lugana – Lugana

is hardly a household name for most wine

enthusiasts. This small production zone

at the southern end of Lake Garda is a mere

1,482 acres in size with just over 100 producers.

An indigenous grape variety most often called

Turbiana or Trebbiano di Lugana is what the

wines of Lugana are composed of. Whatever

name we assign to the grape variety, Ghiraldi’s

Lugana is a medium to full-bodied white wine

with intense luscious fruit flavors wrapped up

in mouth-watering acidity. Try this the next

time you’re searching for that perfect seafood

wine. $19

Chionetti San Luigi Dolcetto di Dogliani –

Back to Piedmont for my next pick. More

specifically the small town of Dogliani where

the Dolcetto grape is king and Chionetti is one

of the top producers. Antonio Galloni of The Wine Advocate described this wine perfectly:

“The 2012 Dogliani San Luigi wraps around

the palate with dark raspberries, crushed flowers,

licorice and cinnamon. Racy, perfumed and

beautifully expressive for Dogliani, the 2012

delivers all the richness Dolcetto is renowned

for here but in a decidedly feminine, gracious

style that is impossible not to love. Firm yet

well-integrated tannins support the finish. 91

points.” $20

Caruso & Minini Nero d’Avola – Our next

wine takes us to the island of Sicily. Sicily has

the most vineyards of any Italian wine region

and the most widely planted grape varietal is

Nero d’Avola. Caruso & Minini’s Nero d’Avola

has aromas of red flowers, sour cherry, ripe

cherries and licorice. This wine is full-bodied

with healthy acidity and a background of silky

tannins that makes it hard to resist pouring

your next glass. $18

Podere Sapaio Bolgheri Superior 2006 –

Bolgheri is the home of some of Italy’s most

iconic and expensive wines. The combination

of warm temperatures, sea breezes and com-

plex soils along the Tuscan coast provide near

perfect conditions for Bordeaux-style blends.

Sassicaia, Ornellaia and Masseto have evolved

into wines for a rock star budget but there

are also more reasonably priced wines from

Bolgheri. Podere Sapaio produced a classic

in the 2006 vintage. $70

If you’d like more suggestions follow me on

Twitter @abcwinepaulq or just shoot me an

email (paulq@abcfws.com) and we can

share our love of wine together.

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njoy the cooler weather with an Alaskan twist on New England clam chowder.

Pair it with a white Châteauneuf or a big Chardonnay.

S E A F O O D C H O W D E R1 cup Smoked salmon, flaked

1 cup Clams, chopped

1 cup Oysters, shucked

½ lb Bacon, for drippings and topping

2 cups Potatoes, cubed and pre-cooked

1 Large onion, chopped

2 Stalks celery, chopped

3 Cloves garlic, chopped

2 cups Heavy cream

4-6 cups Half-n-Half

Garnish:

Chives, sour cream and crumbled bacon

P R E P A R A T I O N In a large stock pot or Dutch oven, fry the bacon until crispy. Remove bacon and set aside.

(Crumble bacon up into bits for the topping.) Leave about a tablespoon of bacon grease in the

bottom of the pot. Sauté the onion and celery about 8-10 minutes or until clear. Add the garlic

and sauté for 3-4 minutes.

Add the half-n-half and stir. Add the seafood, pre-cooked potatoes and bring to a simmer

(being careful not to scorch it). Simmer on very low heat for 10 minutes. Serve in bowls and

top with a dollop of sour cream, sprinkle with chives and bacon bits.

E

Hearty Soups & Heartier Wine

P A I R S W E L L W I T H

Bai Gorri White Rioja

$26

Domaine des Sénéchaux Châteaunuef- du-Pape Blanc

$46

Fault Line Sonoma Coast

Chardonnay

$25

P E T E S H I P L E Y • W I N E & S P I R I T S C O N S U L T A N T • G A I N E S V I L L E

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Valentine’s Day Made Simple

ou know you’re thinking it, or certainly

will be very soon: “What’s the best wine for

Valentine’s Day?” We all want an easy answer,

but life rarely gives us easy answers, so I will.

“Whatever your Valentine loves best!” is the

truest answer that never gets old. It shows

that you care for your romantic partner and

that you actually know what they like. That

being said, you can still come up with some-

thing new that is in the same category as their

favorite—if they love Cabernet Sauvignon,

keep things fresh and exciting by selecting

a Cab from a different locale, like

South America.

If you truly don’t know what they like

(perhaps this is a first date!), then we have

some safe bets that always seem to please.

First we can thank the vignerons of Cham-

pagne, France, who have trained us over the

last couple of centuries to only celebrate with

sparkling wine. If we don’t hear that pop!,

then it’s just not a special occasion. Luckily

Champagne and sparkling wine (the bubbly

stuff from everywhere else that is not Cham-

pagne) can go with a broad range of tasty

treats, from chocolates to pastries to savories,

or it can be imbibed all on its own. A good

sparkling wine is always a fine Valentine’s

Day gift, and though we can go to the classics

like Veuve Clicquot, Moët et Chandon,

Perrier-Jouët and Moutard, it might be fun

to try something new that also happens to

have a stunning visual appeal.

Giorgi, from Lombardy, Italy, is a popular

producer of many of our favorite wines, like

the Costarosa ($14), a lightly sparkling, sweet

red that is perfect for the person who doesn’t

usually like red wine. Giorgi happens to make

two beautiful sparkling wines that come in

shimmering, mirror bottles: Platino and

Pink Platino. Both are made from Pinot Nero

grapes (Pinot Noir to the rest of the world)

and are $20 per bottle. The Platino is a “blanc

de noirs” style, or “white from black,” with

classic yeasty tones and a hint of wheatberry,

finishing with some tart fruit on the palate.

The Pink Platino is more like a brut rosé,

a pink wine from a red grape source. With

longer skin contact this wine is a little fruitier

up front with strawberry and raspberry

flavors but still has a clean and brisk finish.

The flavor is in the bottle but the shiny

packages really make the wines stand out

as an ideal, romantic gift.

Two similar wines, also with shiny packages,

come from France: Faubourg 21 Premier

Brut and Premier Rosé ($17 each). The brut

is Chardonnay-based in a shiny golden bottle,

while the rosé is Syrah-based in a silver

mirror bottle with a pink label. Though brut,

they are softer sparkling wines than their

Champenois cohorts, making them accessible

to more palates. The rosé is a lightly blushing

pink color with hints of berries on the nose,

while the Premier Brut is more reminiscent

of a blanc de blancs with more citrus flavors.

The shining bottles give them a “Mirror,

Mirror” appeal making your Valentine the

“fairest of them all.”

If sparkling wine is not your Valentine’s favorite

then let’s consider the other most popular

Valentine’s Day gift, chocolate. What wines

pair best with everyone’s favorite sweet treat?

A number of wines, and they don’t have to be

sweet. We often talk about cocoa or mocha

flavors in dry red wines like Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon, Shiraz and Malbec, so pairing some of

these wines with a box of chocolates makes

for a great Valentine’s Day treat. I love Zinfandel

Y

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wine journal | 9

and chocolate, and I find it works well with

dark chocolate, where the jamminess of the

Zin balances the deeper flavors of the choco-

late. Ca’Momi Napa Zinfandel ($15) is an in-

credible deal, yet still has the depth, richness

and complex flavors that make it interesting

to pair with a range of chocolates. If you want

to explore something similar, think Italian

Primitivo-based wines like Apulia’s Anarkos

($15). Primitivo is genetically the same as

Zinfandel, but has a different style and finish.

I also love Portuguese Porto wines with choc-

olate, so pairing up a Late Bottled Vintage

Porto or an aged Tawny Porto can make a

great Valentine’s Day gift to enjoy after your

romantic meal. If you want to explore less

traditional options, think of an Aussie Tawny

Port, like Serafino ($18). It can pair with

almost any style of chocolate from milk to

dark, creamy truffles to nutty caramels.

Chocolate-maker Brix makes “Chocolate

for Wine” and even tells you which of their

chocolates pair best with which wines. They

suggest their “Smooth Dark Chocolate” for

Champagne, Riesling, Pinot Noir and Vintage

Porto; their “Medium Dark Chocolate” with

Merlot, Shiraz, Zinfandel, Chianti and Rhône

wines; and their “Extra Dark Chocolate” with

Bordeaux grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon

and Malbec, as well as Italian Barolo.

Create a personalized gift basket with chocolates,

cheeses or tapenade, if your Valentine is a

foodie. If food is not the way into their heart,

a pair of crystal wine glasses will set the stage

for your celebration. Show your Valentine how

much you care this February 14 with a gift

you know they’ll love.

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The Black Wine of Cahors

he city of Cahors, tucked into a rounded

nook of the Lot River, is a lovely example of

medieval architecture. At the heart of wine

country, the city’s most memorable landmark

is the Valentré Bridge, a 14th-century fortified

stone arch bridge crossing the Lot River.

The Valentré Bridge has become the symbol

of the city. Another iconic example of

Cahors is the wine made there.

The Cahors vineyard, dating back to Roman

times, is one of the oldest in France. Cahors

wines are powerful and robust, with deep

color that inspired the English term “Black

Wine of Cahors.” Adopted by the Orthodox

Church as Mass wine and the court of the

Tsars as ceremonial wine, the Black Wine is

becoming increasingly popular with wine

enthusiasts of the 21st century to whom it

is better known as Malbec.

In fact, Malbec (aka Côt, Côt Noir, Auxerrois,

Pressac, etc.) is original to Burgundy but

got its fame in Bordeaux and Cahors, source

of the world’s best Malbec. Cahors wine can

be enjoyed young, or it can be aged for 10

years or longer.

Icône of Château de Haute-Serre, 2009

($110), is now available at ABC Fine Wine

& Spirits.

The Icône is the ultimate achievement of

the joint efforts of Bertrand-Gabriel Vigou-

roux, proprietor of several wine estates in

the area, including Château de Haute-Serre

and Château de Mercuès, and Paul Hobbs,

the emblematic world’s-top-Malbec-expert.

Besides producing some of Cahors’s best

wines, Bertrand Vigouroux has established

one of France’s best Relais & Châteaux

(a group of boutique luxury hotels) at

Château de Mercuès, where oenotourism-

meets the exquisite, black truffle-inspired

local cuisine.

Paul, nicknamed the “flying winemaker,”

consults for hundreds of wineries around

the world, most notably in California and

Mendoza, with his latest projects taking

him to the oldest vineyards of the world in

Eastern Europe. He is passionately involved

in every one of his projects and that transpires

in his engaging personality.

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The Vigouroux/Hobbs cooperation began

in 2008 after Bertrand-Gabriel Vigouroux

visited Mendoza and invited Paul Hobbs to

discover Cahors. Bertrand-Gabriel’s natural

curiosity is constantly guiding him towards

new horizons and discoveries and his

obsession for perfection is the driving force

behind the latest success of his wines.

The Icône of Château de Haute-Serre exhibits

opaque purple-black color and aromas and

flavors of black currant, blackberry and

blue flowers. Full-bodied with solid but

silky and well-integrated tannins, this Malbec

has perfect balance and an impressive

30+-second finish. It is best enjoyed with

grilled red meats and black truffle-based

dishes. Quantities are very limited as total

production was only 3,000 bottles.

The other two Malbecs from Georges

Vigouroux are the 2014 Gouleyant Malbec

and the 2010 Château de Haute-Serre

Malbec. The latest additions are the 2012

Gouleyant white, a blend of Loin de l’Oeil

and Sauvignon Blanc from the Gaillac

appellation, and the 2014 Gouleyant Malbec

Rosé, both perfect matches for the hot

Florida weather.

At the time when Georges Vigouroux pur-

chased Château de Haute-Serre in 1970, the

estate had been abandoned for nearly 100

years subsequent to the phylloxera devasta-

tion of the late 19th century. The vineyard

of Château de Haute-Serre is a 70-acre

single plot of Malbec planted on the slopes

of a hill, the top of which marks the highest

elevation of the appellation at 1,000 feet.

The 2010 Château de Haute-Serre Malbec

exhibits deep purple color and enticing

aromas of black currant, blueberries, black

truffle and mocha. The palate is generous,

balanced and complex, reinforced by rich,

spicy oak flavors. This wine is best enjoyed

with grilled red meats and truffle-

based dishes.

The 2014 Gouleyant Malbec exhibits saturated

ruby red color and aromas and flavors of

red berries, black cherry and a touch of

spice; medium-bodied, very pleasant on the

palate, with fine ripe tannins and supple

texture. Enjoy as an aperitif or pair with

mixed salads, white and red meats and

aged hard cheeses.

My personal favorite food and wine pairing?

Gouleyant Malbec with a black truffle

omelet. Bon appétit!

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s you may have gathered, building up a good wine cellar involves a lot more than simply accumulating bottles. Many experts and critics have opined on what a wine cellar should contain. While the makeup differs slightly, the basic principle is the same: An intermediate level cellar should include age-worthy wines. Old World wines, like those of Bordeaux and Barolo, are vinified to be aged. Most New World wines are usually vinified with softer tannins and higher residual sugar and therefore have a limited shelf life and should be consumed within 3-7 years. But before we go too far, let’s take this opportunity to bridge the gap between simply having wine on hand and having wine that we lay down and age for future enjoyment. To prepare, let’s celebrate the classics that are the pillars of the industry.

We begin our trip in Bordeaux. Cabernet and Merlot are used to make the majority of red wines (90% of the vineyard area); Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec are also used for blending. The main varieties used in white Bordeaux are Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc, for both dry and sweet wines. Here are a few suggestions to get you started—note that all of these red wines need at least two hours of decanting.

PAU I L L A C D E LY N C H-B A G E S 2010 • $45This wine displays a solid core of cassis, raspberry and blackberry coulis notes, framed by a rather polished structure and lined with lightly toasted apple wood and anise notes. Offers good definition, with a violet note chiming in on the finish. A sleek, elegant Pauillac that relies more on purity than muscle. Best from 2014 through 2023. 91 points, Wine Spectator.

C L O S F L O R I D È N E R O U G E 2010 • $25This is very pure, with a mix of damson plum, black cherry and red currant fruit all steeped together and backed by a juicy bergamot, toasted spice and licorice notes. There’s nice freshness through the finish, with a tarry edge hanging just in the background. Should age gracefully. Drink now through 2020. 91 points, Wine Spectator.

L’E S P R I T D E C H E VA L I E R W H I T E 2010 • $30This is a remarkable wine with a density of fruit that reminds me of a Montrachet from a great vintage. It’s full-bodied, dense and rich—almost oily—but then it turns bright and fresh with a powerful backbone of acidity. A marvel. 99-100 points, James Suckling

L E S C H Ê N E S D E M A C Q U I N 2011 • $43This is the second wine from Château Pavie-Macquin a Premier Cru Classe B of Saint-Émilion. This Right Bank Bordeaux comprises of 90% Merlot, 8% Cabernet and 2% Cab Franc. This family estate is located on the highest plateau of Saint-Émilion. The clay and lime-stone soil give the wine power, flesh and generosity.

L A G R AV E T T E D E C E R TA N 2010 • $63An equal part blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, it has a deep purple color and a wonderfully sweet nose of raspberries, black cherries, mulberries, licorice and foresty notes. Full-bodied and evolved, this wine has gorgeous texture and remarkable opulence. It can be drunk now or cellared for 10-15 years. 93 points, The Wine Advocate

This is the second wine from Vieux Château Certan, one of the oldest Bordeaux wine properties in Pomerol.

Next we move to Burgundy. The purpose here is to experience Old World Pinot Noir and Chardonnay the way some experts say it was intended to be.

D O M A I N E D U B O I S N U I T S -S A I N T-G E O R G E S 2012 • $33This 100% Pinot Noir comes from 30-year-old vines grown in clay and limestone soil. The wine goes through malolactic fermentation and is aged for 15 months in oak before bottling. It has a powerful nose and deep, dark color with flavors of cherries, black currants and spice. It has a finish that is long, round and full. This is what Pinot Noir is all about.

MAISON CHAMPY PERNAND-VERGELESSES 2012 • $33This is 100% Chardonnay from four different localities owned by Domaine Champy. This wine has a subtle gold hue and beautiful aromatic intensity. The nose opens with notes of citrus, white flowers, wild mint and mineral with a smoky background. The acidity it sharp but fresh and elegant; there is a nice balance between freshness and roundness. The finish is long and persistent with a lovely minerality.

Founded in 1720, Champy is both the first established wine house of Burgundy and a pioneer of the Bur-gundy vineyard for its rational practice of organic and sustainable farming methods. With winemaker Dimitri Bazas holding the reins it will be tough to find wines that express the nuances of Burgundian terroir better than Champy.

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Do You Want to Build a Cellar Part II: The IntermediateH E AT H E R B U R TO N • @A B C W I N E H E AT H E R B • H E AT H E R B @A B C F W S.C O M

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The Rhône Valley is a key wine-producing region in the southeast of France. Using uncommon grape varietals to make wine so rustic yet refined, powerful yet with so much grace, they are an anomaly. Grenache and Syrah are common in their red wines.

C H ÂT E AU G I G O G N A N C H ÂT E AU N E U F- D U-PA P E ‘C L O S D U R O I ’ 2012 • $33Gigognan is a certified organic estate producing wines of exceptional quality and authenticity. Made from 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah, it offers classic Châteauneuf character in its darker berry fruits, truffle, wild herbs and olive-paste aromas and flavors. Medium to full-bodied, with beautiful richness and depth, it’s an impressive, classic wine that will have 12-15 years of longevity. 91 points, The Wine Advocate

X AV I E R V I N S G I G O N D A S 2010 • $33More floral with abundant black fruit, raspberry and crushed rock characteristics, this Gigondas was made from 100% Grenache and came in at 15+% alcohol. …it reveals good elegance, purity and texture as well as a full-bodied mouthfeel. Bigger and richer it should age well for a decade. 92 points, The Wine Advocate

There are two kings of Italian wine: Barolo and Brunello. Barolo is made purely of the Nebbiolo grape in the northern Italian region of Piedmont. These wines have a high acidity and tannins and demand patience to age until they are ready, but the joys they deliver are worth the years of waiting. Brunello is made only of Sangiovese Grosso and comes from the area known as Montalcino. Brunello is aged and not released from the winery until 50 months after harvest! Oh, but are they worth it.

C A B U T T O B A R O L O V I G N A L A V O LTA 2011 • $43Tenuta La Volta, founded by the Cabutto family in 1920, is situated around the castle of La Volta, over-looking Barolo. Made exclusively of Nebbiolo, this is classic Barolo, matured in oak casks for at least four years. It is a complex and elegant wine destined for a long life in the cellar.

L A G E R L A B R U N E L L O D I M O N TA L C I N O 2009 • $45The 2009 Brunello opens to a brooding dark color and doesn’t hold back in terms of aromatic intensity. It starts off with ripe fruit and forest berry then grad-ually evolves in the glass to make room for licorice, dried herbs and roasted almond. The wine is pointed and pristine with a good level of focus. 90 points, The Wine Advocate

German Rieslings are the last of the classics we will cover. Riesling by nature has a high acidity and high residual sugar content which makes these wines ideal for cellaring. Let’s explore wines from the most notable regions: the Mosel and the Rheinhessen.

S E L B A C H-O S T E R Z E LT I N G E R S O N N E N U H R S PÄT L E S E • $25 Selbach’s ancestors have been cultivating Riesling in the Mosel since 1600. Selbach is one of the most respected winemakers in the area; his main focus is on quality, picking is done by hand and traditional winemaking is preferred. This late harvest Riesling is from the favorite Sundial vineyard and is a wine with great aging potential.

PJ VA L C K E N B E R G W E I N G U T L I E B F R AU E N-S T I F T D R Y R I E S L I N G • $15 Founded in 1786, the Weingut Liebfrauenstift estate is located in the German wine-growing area of Rhein-hessen in the village of Worms. This wine is extremely pleasant, with zesty lime and mineral notes that start on the first sip and carry on through its medium-long finish. It’s a delicious wine with an abundance of char-acter and complexity. The best attribute of this wine is its versatility when pairing with food.

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n case you didn’t attend the incredible Taste

for Learning event on November 7, you might

want to mark your calendar for the next soiree

in May 2017. Easily one of the best attended

events we sponsor, and certainly the most

elegant, this annual fundraiser has it all. From

cuisine presented by many of the top eateries in

the area, to more wines than you can imagine,

including dozens of spirits and cordials, the

legend of this event continues to grow not only

for the educational funding it provides to two

local beneficiaries, but also because it offers

something for everyone.

Early arrivals were treated to a glass of bubbly

as they perused the auction items, waiting for

the event to begin. At 7 p.m. the doors opened,

and guests enjoyed nearly 400 wines, spirits,

craft beers, close to a dozen popular local

restaurants serving wonderful specialties, and

live music.

I made it a point to sample everything being

served… food that is! Disney brought their

cooking show-quality set and served braised

short ribs and pork belly Bolognese over wild

mushroom risotto. It was better than what

you can imagine! I next tried T-Rex’s creamy

lobster bisque in puff pastry. I was feeling a

little tightening in the waist but still had such

a long way to go! I pressed on, wine in hand. A

Land Remembered offered short ribs w/Barolo

reduction on garlic mashed potatoes; Bubba-

lous made a pulled pork sundae with pork,

slaw and baked beans that was off the charts;

Yak & Yeti offered a sriracha fish taco of fresh

cod; Rainforest Café kicked it up with smoked

brisket and bacon onion jam; Mi Casa Tequila

Tacqueria offered beef, chicken and fish tacos;

Cala Bella had veal and mozzarella meatball

sliders; for dessert the Hard Rock Café had

cannoli with tiramisu cupcakes. Oooph! Did

I mention there were couches scattered

throughout? I found them quickly!

The event, which draws hundreds of attendees

each year, benefits two local entities, the

Valencia Foundation and Orlando Health.

I sat down with the chair of both to chat about

the benefit of this event for the community

and the importance of the monies raised for

their cause.

“Valencia is so grateful to Jess Bailes and the

ABC Fine Wine & Spirits family for their

amazing generosity over the past 27 years,”

said Geraldine Gallagher, President and CEO

of the Valencia Foundation. A total investment

of $500,000 in students has resulted in schol-

arships and an endowed professorship to serve

students with physical challenges. Another

2,600 students received scholarships through

Taste for Learning.

In 2005, Valencia Foundation treasurer, Jess

Bailes, introduced the concept of a fundraising

event that relied 100% on in-kind donations.

In a series of eight events that occur every 18

months, the formula has held true. Rosen Shingle

Creek joined the partnership for the third Taste

for Learning, donating their gorgeous resort

venue, food, service and many extras. Over the

years, dozens of local chefs have contributed

their cuisine, and hundreds of vintners and

spirits producers have poured their best

products to an average of 800 guests.

Over the past 10 years, Taste for Learning has

generated nearly $2.9 million, which supported

2,600 scholarships for students in need, as well

as $300,000 invested in community healthcare.

The scholarships are designated to individuals

who are the first in their families to attend

college. For many students, scholarships make

the difference in their ability to afford college.

A few words from recipients of these

scholarships:

“As a first-generation college student,

I work hard in order to get the education

my parents were not fortunate enough to

get,” explained Valencia sophomore Salomon

Valladares, who plans to ultimately become a

doctor of neuro-radiology. “I appreciate the

sacrifices my parents made and will not squan-

der this opportunity. This experience will not

only benefit my life but will also allow me to

take care of my parents just like they have taken

care of me. Thank you for this great gift and

know that I will never forget your kindness.”

Lindsey Pressa, whose parents immigrated to

American from Haiti and had no real chance to

attend college, said, “Despite my fear of failing,

despite my parents’ lack of opportunity, despite

the trials and tribulations I will be facing in the

future, I keep pushing. The journey I am on is

nothing close to easy, but when the right people

come along (people like you), it is impossible

to give up.”

Join us for the next Taste for Learning event

in May 2017!

I

Education Never Tasted So Fine

S H A Y N E H E B E R T • @ A B C W I N E S H A Y N E • S H A Y N E H @ A B C F W S . C O M Atanas and Nick Caramelli of Fattoria La Ripa

t’s a bit of an insider’s joke amongst us in the wine industry regarding the greatness of Riesling —it should be far more popular than it is. You would be hard-pressed to come up with any other grape that’s lauded more by wine critics and yet largely ignored by the wine buying public in general.

It’s a pity really. Perhaps no other white wine reflects its sense of place better than Riesling, a grape that shines in great terroirs as diverse as the Palatinate of Germany, Alsace or even Polish Hill in southern Australia. Riesling is a super-lative food wine and frequently over-delivers on bang-for-the-buck quality versus price. The varietal is a match made in heaven with pork, chicken, an array of cheeses and Asian cuisine. Many consistently improve with age too. It’s relatively easy to find a world-class wine for less than $25 a bottle that can be enjoyed immediately or cellared for upwards of a decade.

Yet Riesling still fails to capture the imagination of so many white wine drinkers.

One issue is marketing and perception. Riesling will never be Chardonnay nor should it try to be. The grape’s lively fruit and vibrant acidity are virtually incompatible with the flavors

of new wood. Rather, there’s a large segment of the U.S. white wine audience that prefers dry, steel-tank fermented Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio to oaky Chardonnay. Riesling done in a similar style can definitely play ball on this court! Look for the key words “Trocken” or “Dry” on the bottle’s front or back labels, or ask one of our dedicated wine & spirits specialists for assistance.

Schloss Reinhartshausen is one of the Rheingau region’s top wine estates and traces its winemak-ing heritage all the way back to 1337. Their vine-yard holdings include 80 hectares encompassing parcels in 15 of the best sites around the towns of Erbach and Hattenheim, including the monopole Erbacher Schlossberg. Schloss Reinhartshausen Old Vines Dry Riesling ($22) is made in a crisp, inviting, dry style and utilizes fruit from 45-year-old vines planted within the Hohenrain vine-yard, a south-facing hillside above the village of Erbach. Here it’s all about the red slate soils. This wine displays citrus blossom and stone fruits with complexity, freshness and minerality.

In the Rheinhessen is another piece of living history. The Liebfrauenstift-Kirchenstück occupies a hallowed corner within the ancient city of Worms. Buttressed by the banks of the Rhine, comingling within yards of modern office buildings and old Romanesque cathedrals, is this 500-year-old vineyard

site originally cultivated by the Capuchins of the Monastery of Our Lady (Liebfrauenstift). Today it is owned by the Steifensand family of PJ Valckenberg Weinhandelhaus. Winemaker Tilman Queins fashions a delicious Weingut Liebfrauenstift Dry Riesling ($15) grown in the red sandstone subsoil of the property. It sports juicy white peach, Meyer lemon and pear with fine acidity and a hint of crushed stones.

One of the all-stars in the Mosel, Johannes Selbach makes Selbach Oster Zeltinger Him-melreich Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken ($17) from one of the very best sites outside the village of Zeltingen. Overlooking the Mosel River, the steep and visually arresting Himmelreich vine-yard is comprised of the famed blue slate that exists here. It’s rife with Golden Delicious apple flavors, whiffs of Ceylon tea, pineapple, lime and wet rocks. It is a wine to enjoy now with pork schnitzel and potato pancakes, or curried sea scallops.

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GERMAN RIESLING – A Dry Revelation

J I M G R E E L E Y • @ A B C W I N E J I M G • J A M E S G @ A B C F W S . C O M

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8989 South Orange Ave.Orlando, Florida 32824

W I N E T O W A T C H : Año Verde Pinot NoirA R O M A :

DARK CHERRY, RASPBERRY AND WHITE PEPPER V A R I E T A L :

Pinot Noir F L A V O R :

Sweet blackberry, cherry, licorice, cola and mocha

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B O D Y :

Light C O L O R :

LUCENT, DEEP PURPLE

F I N I S H :

Lingering and impactful

R E G I O N :

CENTRAL COAST,

CALIFORNIA P A I R W I T H :