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Title:AVoyagetotheSouthSea

ForThePurposeOfConveyingTheBreadFruitTreeToTheWestIndies,

IncludingAnAccountOfTheMutinyOnBoardTheShip

Author:WilliamBligh

ReleaseDate:March19,2005[EBook#15411]

Language:English

***STARTOFTHISPROJECTGUTENBERGEBOOKAVOYAGETOTHESOUTHSEA***

ProducedbySueAsscherandColChoat.

A

VOYAGE

TOTHE

SOUTHSEA,

UNDERTAKENBYCOMMANDOF

HISMAJESTY,

FORTHEPURPOSEOF

CONVEYINGTHEBREADFRUITTREE

TOTHEWESTINDIES,

INHISMAJESTY'SSHIPTHEBOUNTY,

COMMANDEDBY

LIEUTENANTWILLIAMBLIGH.

INCLUDINGANACCOUNTOFTHE

MUTINYONBOARDTHESAIDSHIP,

ANDTHE

SUBSEQUENTVOYAGEOFPARTOFTHECREW,INTHESHIP'SBOAT,

FROMTOFOA,ONEOFTHEFRIENDLYISLANDS,

TOTIMOR,ADUTCHSETTLEMENTINTHEEASTINDIES.

THEWHOLEILLUSTRATEDWITHCHARTS,ETC.

PUBLISHEDBYPERMISSIONOFTHE

LORDSCOMMISSIONERSOFTHEADMIRALTY.

LORDSCOMMISSIONERSOFTHEADMIRALTY.

LONDON:

PRINTEDFORGEORGENICOL,BOOKSELLERTOHISMAJESTY,PALL-MALL.

1792.

CaptainBligh

ADVERTISEMENT.

AtthetimeIpublishedtheNarrativeoftheMutinyonBoardtheBountyitwasmy intention that the preceding part of the Voyage should be contained in aseparateaccount.ThismethodIhavesincebeeninducedtoalter.Thereasonofthe Narrative appearing first was for the purpose of communicating earlyinformation concerning an event which had attracted the public notice: and,being drawn up in a hasty manner, it required many corrections. Somecircumstances likewise were omitted; and the notation of time used in theNarrativebeingaccordingtoseareckoning,inwhichthedaysbeginandendatnoon, must have produced a degree of obscurity and confusion to readersaccustomed only to the civil mode. And this would have increased as theremainder of the voyage, on account of the numerous shore occurrences atOtaheite and elsewhere, could not, with clearness and propriety, have beenrelatedinanyotherthantheusualmannerofreckoning.

BesidesremedyingtheseinconvenienciesIhavethoughtafulleraccountofourpassagefromTimortoEuropethanthatcontainedintheNarrativewouldnotbeunacceptable.These reasons,with themanifest convenience of comprising thewholeVoyage in one continued narrative, in preference to letting it appear indisjointedaccountswill, it ishoped,be alloweda sufficient excuse forhavingvaried from the original intention.Nevertheless for the accommodation of thepurchasers of the Narrative already published those who desire it will besuppliedwiththeotherpartsoftheVoyageseparate;i.e.thepartprevioustothemutinyandtheadditionalaccountafterleavingTimor.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER1.

PlanoftheExpedition.OutfitandOccurrencestothetimeofleavingEngland.DescriptionoftheBreadfruit.

CHAPTER2.

DeparturefromEngland.ArrivalatTenerife.Sailfromthence.ArrivaloffCapeHorn.SeverityoftheWeather.ObligedtobearawayfortheCapeofGoodHope.

CHAPTER3.

PassagetowardstheCapeofGoodHopeandSearchafterTristandaCunha.ArrivalatFalseBay.Occurrencesthere.ReportsconcerningtheGrosvenor'sPeople.DeparturefromtheCape.

CHAPTER4.

PassagetowardsVanDiemen'sLand.MaketheIslandofSt.Paul.ArrivalinAdventureBay.Nativesseen.SailfromVanDiemen'sLand.

CHAPTER5.

RockyIslandsdiscovered.SeetheIslandMaiteaandarriveatOtaheite.ShipcrowdedbytheNatives.

CHAPTER6.

AccountofanEnglishShiplatelysailedfromOtaheite.DeathofOmai.CaptainCook'sPicturesentonboard.OtoovisitstheShip.HisVisitreturned.Nativeswelldisposedtowardsus.AccountoftheCattleleftbyCaptainCook.Breadfruitplantspromised.VisittotheEareeRahie.PresentsmadetotheArreoys.

CHAPTER7.

Atheftcommitted.DeceptionofthepaintedHead.ConversationwithaPriest.AWrestlingMatch.ReportsoftheNativesconcerningotherIslands.SomeAccountofOmai.

CHAPTER8.

ExpeditiontoTettabaafteraHeifer.ExtraordinarydomesticArrangements.Tinah'sMothervisitstheShip.ASheepbroughtfromUlietea.HeavyStorm.DeathoftheSurgeon.TaowneandToahroahHarboursexamined.

CHAPTER9.

AWalkintotheCountry.ThePeeahRoah.PrevailedonbytheKindnessoftheChiefstodeferourDeparture.BreadfruitPlantscollected.MovetheShiptoToahroahHarbour.Fishing.ThreeoftheShip'sCompanydesert.IndiscretionofourPeopleonShore.

InstancesofJealousy.Mourning.BullbroughttoOparrebyaProphet.TheDesertersrecovered.TinahproposestovisitEngland.

CHAPTER10.

TheShip'sCablecutintheNight.CoolnesswiththeChiefsonthatAccount.VisittoanoldLady.DisturbanceataHeiva.Tinah'sHospitality.AThieftakenandpunished.Preparationsforsailing.

CHAPTER11.

ArrivalofanArreoyWomanfromTethuroa.APresentdeliveredbyTinahforhisMajesty.OtherOccurrencestotheTimeoftheShip'sDeparturefromOtaheite.

CHAPTER12.

AttheIslandHuaheine.AFriendofOmaivisitstheShip.LeavetheSocietyIslands.AWater-spout.TheIslandWhytootackeediscovered.AnchorinAnnamookaRoad.OurPartiesonShorerobbedbytheNatives.SailfromAnnamooka.TheChiefsdetainedonboard.Partfriendly.

CHAPTER13.

AMutinyintheShip.

CHAPTER14.

ProceedintheLaunchtotheIslandTofoa.DifficultyinobtainingSuppliesthere.TreacherousAttackoftheNatives.EscapetoSeaandbearawayforNewHolland.

CHAPTER15.

PassagetowardsNewHolland.IslandsdiscoveredinourRoute.OurgreatDistresses.SeetheReefsofNewHollandandfindaPassagethroughthem.

CHAPTER16.

ProgresstotheNorthwardalongtheCoastofNewHolland.LandondifferentIslandsinsearchofSupplies.

CHAPTER17.

PassagefromNewHollandtotheIslandTimor.ArriveatCoupang.Receptionthere.

CHAPTER18.

AtCoupang.

CHAPTER19.

FromTimortoBatavia.

CHAPTER20.

OccurrencesatBataviaandPassagethencetoEngland.

LISTOFTHEPLATES.

HeadofLieutenantBligh.

PlanandprofileofthedeckoftheBounty.

SectionsoftheBreadfruit.

PlanofToahroahharbour.

CopyofthedraughtfromwhichtheBounty'slaunchwasbuilt.

ChartofIslandsdiscoveredfromthelaunch.

Chartofpartofthenorth-eastcoastofNewHolland.

ChartofthetrackofthelaunchfromTofoatoTimor.

PlanandSectionofPartoftheBountyArmedTransport,showingthe

mannerofFittingandStowingthePotts,forreceivingtheBreadfruitPlants.

AVOYAGETOTHESOUTHSEAS,ETC.

CHAPTER1.

PlanoftheExpedition.OutfitandOccurrencestothetimeofleavingEngland.DescriptionoftheBreadfruit.

1787.

The King having been graciously pleased to comply with a request from themerchants and planters interested in hisMajesty'sWest India possessions thatthebreadfruittreemightbeintroducedintothoseislands,avesselproperfortheundertakingwasboughtandtakenintodockatDeptfordtobeprovidedwiththenecessaryfixturesandpreparationsforexecutingtheobjectofthevoyage.Thesewere completed according to a plan ofmymuch honoured friend, Sir JosephBanks,which in theeventproved themostadvantageous thatcouldhavebeenadoptedfortheintendedpurpose.

August16.

TheshipwasnamedtheBounty:Iwasappointedtocommandheronthe16thofAugust1787.Herburthenwasnearlytwohundredandfifteentons;herextremelength on deck ninety feet ten inches; extreme breadth twenty-four feet threeinches; and height in the hold under the beams at themain hatchway ten feetthreeinches.Inthecockpitwerethecabinsofthesurgeon,gunner,botanist,andclerk,withasteward-roomandstorerooms.Thebetweendeckswasdivided inthe followingmanner: thegreatcabinwasappropriated for thepreservationoftheplants and extended as far forward as the after hatchway. It had two largeskylights,andoneachsidethreescuttlesforair,andwasfittedwithafalsefloorcut full of holes to contain the garden-pots in which the plants were to bebroughthome.Thedeckwascoveredwithlead,andattheforemostcornersofthecabinwerefixedpipestocarryoffthewaterthatdrainedfromtheplantsintotubsplacedbelow to save it for futureuse. Ihada small cabinonone side tosleepin,adjoiningtothegreatcabin,andaplacenearthemiddleoftheshiptoeat in. The bulk-head of this apartment was at the after-part of the mainhatchway,andoneachsideofitweretheberthsofthematesandmidshipmen;

between these berths the arm-chest was placed. The cabin of the master, inwhichwasalwayskeptthekeyofthearms,wasoppositetomine.Thisparticulardescriptionoftheinteriorpartsoftheshipisrenderednecessarybytheeventoftheexpedition.

The ship was masted according to the proportion of the navy; but on myapplication the masts were shortened, as I thought them too much for her,consideringthenatureofthevoyage.

September3.

On the 3rd of September the ship came out of dock; but the carpenters andjoiners remained on board much longer, as they had a great deal of work tofinish.

Thenextmaterialalterationmadeinthefittingoutwaslesseningthequantityofironandotherballast.Igavedirectionsthatonlynineteentonsofironshouldbetakenonboard insteadof the customaryproportionwhichwas forty-five tons.The stores and provisions I judged would be fully sufficient to answer thepurpose of the remainder; for I am of opinion that many of the misfortuneswhich attend ships inheavy stormsofwind areoccasionedby toomuchdeadweightintheirbottoms.

Theestablishmentofmenandofficersfortheshipwereasfollows:

1Lieutenanttocommand.

1Master.

1Boatswain.

1Gunner.

1Carpenter.

1Surgeon.

2Master'sMates.

2Midshipmen.

2Quartermasters.

1Quartermaster'sMate.

1Boatswain'sMate.

1Gunner'sMate.

1Carpenter'sMate.

1Carpenter'sCrew.

1Sailmaker.

1Armourer.

1Corporal.

1ClerkandSteward.

23AbleSeamen.

---

44.

Two skilful and careful men were appointed, at Sir Joseph Banks'srecommendation, tohave themanagementof theplants intended tobebroughthome:theone,DavidNelson,whohadbeenonsimilaremploymentinCaptainCook'slastvoyage;theother,WilliamBrown,asanassistanttohim.Withthesetwoourwholenumberamountedtoforty-six.

ItwasproposedthatourroutetotheSocietyIslandsshouldberoundCapeHorn;and the greatest dispatch became necessary as the season was already faradvanced:buttheshipwrightsnotbeingabletocompletetheirworkbythetimetheshipwasreadyinotherrespects,oursailingwasunavoidablyretarded.

October.Thursday4.

However by the 4th of October the pilot came on board to take us down theriver.

Tuesday9.

Onthe9thwefelldowntoLongReachwherewereceivedourgunner'sstoresandguns,fourfour-poundersandtenswivels.

The ship was stored and victualled for eighteen months. In addition to thecustomary allowance of provisions wewere supplied with sourkraut, portablesoup,essenceofmalt,driedmalt,andaproportionofbarleyandwheatinlieuofoatmeal. I was likewise furnishedwith a quantity of ironwork and trinkets toserveinourintercoursewiththenativesintheSouthSeas:andfromtheboardofLongitudeIreceivedatimekeeper,madebyMr.Kendal.

Monday15.

Onthe15thIreceivedorderstoproceedtoSpithead.

November.Sunday4.

Butthewindsandweatherweresounfavourablethatwedidnotarrivetheretillthe4thofNovember.Onthe24thIreceivedfromLordHood,whocommandedatSpithead,myfinalorders.Thewind,whichforseveraldaysbeforehadbeenfavourable,wasnowturneddirectlyagainstus.

Wednesday28.

Onthe28ththeship'scompanyreceivedtwomonthspayinadvance,andonthefollowing morning we worked out to St. Helen's, where we were obliged toanchor.

1787.December.Sunday23.

We made different unsuccessful attempts to get down Channel, but contrarywinds and bad weather constantly forced us back to St. Helen's, or Spithead,untilSundaythe23rdofDecemberwhenwesailedwithafairwind.

During our stay at Spithead, the rate of the timepiece was several timesexamined byMr.Bailey's observations at the Portsmouth observatory.On the19thofDecember,thelasttimeofitsbeingexaminedonshore,itwas1minute52seconds,5toofastformeantime,andthenlosingattherateof1second,1perday;andatthisrateIestimateitsgoingwhenwesailed.

The object of all the former voyages to the South Seas undertaken by thecommandofhispresentmajesty,hasbeen theadvancementofscienceand theincreaseofknowledge.Thisvoyagemaybe reckoned the first the intentionofwhich has been to derive benefit from those distant discoveries. For themorefullycomprehending thenatureandplanof theexpedition,and that the readermaybepossessedofeveryinformationnecessaryforenteringonthefollowingsheets,IshallherelaybeforehimacopyoftheinstructionsIreceivedfromtheadmiralty,andlikewiseashortdescriptionofthebreadfruit.

BytheCommissionersforExecutingtheOfficeofLordHighAdmiralofGreatBritainandIreland,etc.

Whereas theking,upona representation from themerchantsandplanters interested inhisMajesty'sWest India possessions that the introduction of the breadfruit tree into the islands of those seas, toconstitute an article of food,would be of very essential benefit to the inhabitants, hath, in order topromotetheinterestsofsorespectableabodyofhissubjects(especiallyinaninstancewhichpromisesgeneraladvantage)thoughtfitthatmeasuresshouldbetakenfortheprocuringsomeofthosetrees,andconveyingthemtothesaidWestIndiaislands:Andwhereasthevesselunderyourcommandhath,inconsequencethereof,beenstoredandvictualledforthatservice,andfittedwithproperconveniencesandnecessaries for thepreservationof asmanyof the said trees as, fromher size, canbe takenonboardher;andyouhavebeendirectedtoreceiveonboardherthetwogardenersnamedinthemargin,DavidNelson,andWilliamBrown,who,fromtheirknowledgeoftreesandplants,havebeenhiredforthepurposeofselectingsuchasshallappeartobeofaproperspeciesandsize:

Youare,therefore,inpursuanceofhismajesty'spleasure,signifiedtousbyLordSydney,oneofhisprincipalsecretariesofstate,herebyrequiredanddirectedtoputtoseainthevesselyoucommand,thefirstfavourableopportunityofwindandweather,andproceedwithher,asexpeditiouslyaspossible,roundCapeHorn,totheSocietyIslands,situateintheSouthernocean,inthelatitudeofabouteighteen

degrees south, and longitude of about two hundred and ten degrees east from Greenwich, where,accordingtotheaccountsgivenbythelateCaptainCook,andpersonswhoaccompaniedhimduringhisvoyages,thebreadfruittreeistobefoundinthemostluxuriantstate.

Havingarrivedattheabove-mentionedislands,andtakenonboardasmanytreesandplantsasmaybethoughtnecessary(thebetter toenableyou todowhich,youhavealreadybeenfurnishedwithsucharticlesofmerchandiseandtrinketsasitissupposedwillbewantedtosatisfythenatives)youaretoproceed from thence throughEndeavourStraits (whichseparateNewHolland fromNewGuinea) toPrince's Island in theStraitsofSunda,or, if it shouldhappen tobemoreconvenient, topasson theeasternsideofJavatosomeportonthenorthsideofthatisland,whereanybreadfruittreeswhichmayhavebeeninjured,orhavedied,maybereplacedbymangosteens,duriens,jacks,nancas,lanfas,andotherfinefruittreesofthatquarter,aswellasthericeplantwhichgrowsupondryland;allofwhichspecies(orsuchofthemasshallbejudgedmosteligible)youaretopurchaseonthebesttermsyoucanfromtheinhabitantsofthatislandwiththeducatswithwhichyouhavealsobeenfurnishedforthatpurpose;takingcarehowever,ifthericeplantsabove-mentionedcannotbeprocuredatJava,totouchatPrince'sIslandforthem,wheretheyareregularlycultivated.

FromPrince'sIsland,or theIslandofJava,youare toproceedroundtheCapeofGoodHopeto theWestIndies(callingonyourwaythitheratanyplaceswhichmaybethoughtnecessary)anddepositonehalfofsuchoftheabove-mentionedtreesandplantsasmaybethenaliveathismajesty'sbotanicalgardenatSt.Vincent,forthebenefitoftheWindwardIslands,andthengoontoJamaica:and,havingdeliveredtheremaindertoMr.East,orsuchpersonorpersonsasmaybeauthorisedbythegovernorand council of that island to receive them, refreshed your people, and received on board suchprovisionsandstoresasmaybenecessaryforthevoyage,makethebestofyourwaybacktoEngland;repairingtoSpithead,andsendingtooursecretaryanaccountofyourarrivalandproceedings.

Andwhereasyouwillreceiveherewithacopyoftheinstructionswhichhavebeengiventotheabove-mentioned gardeners for their guidance, as well as in procuring the said trees and plants, and themanagementof themafter theyshallbeputonboard,as forbringing toEnglanda small sampleofeachspecies,andsuchothersasmaybepreparedbythesuperintendentofthebotanicalgardenatSt.Vincent's,andbythesaidMr.East,orothers,forhismajesty'sgardenatKew;youareherebyrequiredanddirectedtoafford,andtogivedirectionstoyourofficersandcompanytoafford,thesaidgardenerseverypossibleaidandassistance,notonlyinthecollectingof thesaidtreesandplantsat theplacesbeforementioned,butfortheirpreservationduringtheirconveyancetotheplacesoftheirdestination.

Givenunderourhandsthe20thNovember1787.

HOWE,CHARLESBRETT,RD.HOPKINS,J.LEVESONGOWER.

ToLieutenantWilliamBligh,commandinghismajesty'sarmedvesseltheBountyatSpithead.

BycommandoftheirLordships,

P.STEPHENS.

In the foregoing orders it is to be observed that Iwas particularly directed to

proceedroundCapeHornbut,astheseasonwassofaradvancedandweweresolong detained by contrary winds, I made application to the Admiralty fordiscretionalordersonthatpoint;towhichIreceivedthefollowinganswer:

By theCommissioners forExecuting theOfficeofLordHighAdmiralofGreatBritainand Ireland,Etc.Etc.

Theseasonof theyearbeingnowsofaradvancedas torender itprobable thatyourarrivalwiththevesselyoucommandonthesoutherncoastofAmericawillbe too lateforyourpassingroundCapeHorn without much difficulty and hazard, you are in that case at liberty (notwithstanding formerorders)toproceedinhertoOtaheite,roundtheCapeofGoodHope.

Givenunderourhandsthe18thDecember1787.

HOWE,CHARLESBRETT,BAYHAM.

ToLieutenantWilliamBligh,commandingHisMajesty'sarmedvesselBounty,Spithead.

BycommandoftheirLordships,

P.Stephens.

TheBreadfruitissowellknownanddescribedthattoattemptanewaccountofit would be unnecessary and useless. However as it may contribute to theconvenienceofthereaderIhavegiventhefollowingextractsrespectingitwiththeplateannexed.

ExtractfromtheAccountofDampier'sVoyageRoundtheWorldPerformedin1688.

Thebreadfruit(aswecallit)growsonalargetree,asbigandhighasourlargestapple-trees:Ithathaspreadinghead,fullofbranchesanddarkleaves.Thefruitgrowsontheboughslikeapples;itisasbigasapenny-loafwhenwheatisatfiveshillingsthebushel;itisofaroundshape,andhathathicktoughrind.When the fruit is ripe it isyellowandsoft, and the taste is sweetandpleasant.ThenativesofGuamuseitforbread.Theygatherit,whenfull-grown,whileitisgreenandhard;thentheybakeitinanoven,whichscorchestherindandmakesitblack;buttheyscrapeofftheoutsideblackcrust,andthereremainsatenderthincrust;andtheinsideissoft,tender,andwhitelikethecrumbofapenny-loaf.ThereisNEITHERSEEDNORSTONEintheinside,butallisofapuresubstance,likebread.Itmustbeeatennew;for,ifitiskeptabovetwenty-fourhours,itgrowsharshandchoaky;butitisverypleasantbeforeitistoostale.ThisfruitlastsinseasonEIGHTMONTHSintheyear,duringwhichthenativeseatNOOTHERSORTOFFOODOFBREADKIND.Ididneverseeofthisfruitanywherebuthere.ThenativestoldusthatthereisplentyofthisfruitgrowingontherestoftheLadroneislands;andIDIDNEVERHEAROFITANYWHEREELSE.Volume1page296.

ExtractfromtheAccountofLordAnson'sVoyage,PublishedbyMr.Walter.

TherewasatTinianakindoffruit,peculiartothese(Ladrone)islands,calledbytheIndiansrhymay,butbyusthebreadfruit;foritwasconstantlyeatenbyus,duringourstayupontheisland,*insteadofbread; and so UNIVERSALLY PREFERRED that no ship's bread was expended in that wholeinterval.Itgrewuponatreewhichissomewhatlofty,andwhichtowardsthetopdividesintolargeandspreading branches. The leaves of this tree are of a remarkable deep green, are notched about theedges,andaregenerallyfromafoottoeighteeninchesinlength.Thefruititselfisfoundindifferentlyonallpartsofthebranches;itisinshaperatherellipticalthanround;itiscoveredwithatoughrindandisusuallysevenoreightincheslong;eachofthemgrowssinglyandnotinclusters.Thisfruitisfittesttobeusedwhenit isfull-grownbutstillgreen;inwhichstate,afterit isproperlypreparedbybeingroastedintheembers,itstastehassomedistantresemblancetothatofanartichoke'sbottom,anditstextureisnotverydifferent,foritissoftandspongy.

(*Footnote.About twomonths, namely from the latter end ofAugust to the latter end ofOctober,1742.)

ExtractsfromtheAccountoftheFirstVoyageofCaptainCook.Hawkesworth,Vol.2.

INTHESOCIETYISLANDS.

Thebreadfruitgrowsonatreethatisaboutthesizeofamiddlingoak;itsleavesarefrequentlyafootandahalflong,ofanoblongshape,deeplysinuatedlikethoseofthefig-tree,whichtheyresembleinconsistenceandcolour,andintheexudingofawhitemilkyjuiceuponbeingbroken.Thefruitisaboutthe size and shape of a child's head, and the surface is reticulated not much unlike a truffle: it iscoveredwithathinskin,andhasacoreaboutasbigasthehandleofasmallknife.Theeatablepartliesbetween the skinand thecore; it is aswhite as snow,and somewhatof theconsistenceofnewbread: it must be roasted before it is eaten, being first divided into three or four parts. Its taste isinsipid,withaslightsweetnesssomewhatresemblingthatofthecrumbofwheatenbreadmixedwithaJerusalemartichoke.

Pages80,81.Seealsotheplatethereandatpage232.

Ofthemanyvegetablesthathavebeenmentionedalreadyasservingthemforfood,theprincipalisthebreadfruit, to procure which costs them no trouble or labour but climbing a tree. The tree whichproduces itdoesnot indeedshootupspontaneously,but if amanplants tenof them inhis lifetime,which he may do in about an hour, he will as completely fulfil his duty to his own and futuregenerations as thenativeofour less temperate climate candobyploughing in the coldwinter, andreapinginthesummer'sheat,asoftenastheseseasonsreturn;evenif,afterhehasprocuredbreadforhispresenthousehold,heshouldconvertasurplusintomoney,andlayitupforhischildren.

It is true indeed that the breadfruit is not always in season; but coconuts, bananas, plantains, and agreatvarietyofotherfruitssupplythedeficiency.Page197.

ExtractfromtheAccountofCaptainCook'SLastVoyage.

INTHESOCIETYISLANDS.

I (CaptainCook) have inquiredvery carefully into theirmanner of cultivating the breadfruit tree atOtaheite;butwasalwaysansweredthattheyneverplantedit.Thisindeedmustbeevidenttoeveryonewhowill examine the placeswhere the young trees come up. Itwill be always observed that they

spring from the roots of the old ones which run along near the surface of the ground. So that thebreadfruittreesmaybereckonedthosethatwouldnaturallycovertheplains,evensupposingthattheislandwasnotinhabited,inthesamemannerthatthewhite-barkedtrees,foundatVanDiemen'sLand,constitutetheforeststhere.AndfromthiswemayobservethattheinhabitantofOtaheite, insteadofbeing obliged to plant his bread, will RATHER be under the necessity of preventing its progress;whichIsupposeissometimesdonetogiveroomfortreesofanothersort,toaffordhimsomevarietyinhisfood.Volume2page145.

INTHESANDWICHISLANDS.

Thebreadfruittreesareplanted,andflourishwithgreatluxuriance,onrisinggrounds.Wherethehillsrisealmostperpendicularlyinagreatvarietyofpeakedforms,theirsteepsidesandthedeepchasmsbetweenthemarecoveredwithtrees,amongstwhichthoseofthebreadfruitwereobservedparticularlytoabound.Volume3pages105and114,containingCaptainKing'sNarrative.

TheclimateoftheSandwichIslandsdiffersverylittlefromthatoftheWestIndiaIslands,whichlieINTHESAMELATITUDE.Uponthewholeperhapsitmayberathermoretemperate.CaptainKingibpage116.

Thebreadfruittreesthriveintheseislands,notinsuchabundance,butproducedoublethequantityoffruittheydoontherichplainsofOtaheite.Thetreesarenearlyofthesameheight,butthebranchesbegintostrikeoutfromthetrunkmuchlower,andwithgreaterluxuriance.CaptainKingibpage120.

SectionsoftheBreadFruit

CHAPTER2.DeparturefromEngland.ArrivalatTenerife.Sailfromthence.ArrivaloffCapeHorn.SeverityoftheWeather.ObligedtobearawayfortheCapeofGoodHope.

1787.December.Sunday23.

OnSundaymorning the23rdofDecember1787wesailed fromSpitheadand,passingthroughtheNeedles,directedourcoursedownchannelwithafreshgaleof wind at east. In the afternoon one of the seamen, in furling the main-top-gallant-sail,fellofftheyardandwassofortunateastosavehimselfbycatchingholdofthemain-top-mast-stayinhisfall.Atnightthewindincreasedtoastronggalewithaheavysea.

Tuesday25.

Itmoderatedhowever on the 25th and allowedus to keepourChristmaswithcheerfulness; but the following day it blew a severe storm of wind from theeastward, which continued till the 29th, in the course of which we sufferedgreatly.Oneseabrokeawaythespareyardsandsparsoutofthestarboardmainchains.Another heavy sea broke into the ship and stove all the boats. Severalcasks of beer that had been lashed upon deck were broke loose and washedoverboard,anditwasnotwithoutgreatdifficultyandriskthatwewereabletosecuretheboatsfrombeingwashedawayentirely.

Saturday29.

Onthe29thwewere in latitude39degrees35minutesnorthand longitude14degrees 26 minutes west when the gale abated and the weather became fair.Besidesothermischiefdonetousbythestorm,alargequantityofourbreadwasdamagedandrendereduseless, for theseahadstove inoursternandfilled thecabin with water. From this time to our arrival at Tenerife we had moderateweatherandwindsmostlyfromthenorthward.

1788.January.

January4.

ThisforenoonwespokeaFrenchshipboundtotheMauritius.

Saturday5.Tenerife.

ThenextdayatnineintheforenoonwesawtheislandofTenerifebearingwest-south-westhalfwest about twelve leaguesdistant. Itwas coveredwith a thickhaze except the north-westernmost part which is a remarkable headland,resemblingahorse'shead, theearsverydistinct.Totheeastwardofthishead*lietworoundrocks,thenorthernboundaryofTenerife.Ihadagoodobservationat noonbywhich Imake the latitude of the two rocks 28 degrees 44minutesnorthandtheir longitudebyour timekeeper16degrees5minuteswest.Tothesouthwardoftheseandneartheshoreisahighneedlerock:aboutfourleaguesfarthertothesouthwardthecoastinclinestowardsthewesttotheroadofSantaCruz,wherewe anchored at half-past nine on Sundaymorning in twenty-fivefathomswater,andmooredalongshoreinthesamedepth,withthecupolatowerofthechurchofSt.Francisbearingwesthalfnorthonemile,theeastpartoftheroadeastbynorth,thecastleonthesouthpointsouth-west,andthewestpartofthe Grand Canary south-south-east. A Spanish packet bound to Corunna, anAmericanbrig,andseveralothervessels,werelyinghere.

(*Footnote.South82degreeseastbythecompass.)

AssoonastheshipwasanchoredIsentanofficer(Mr.Christian)towaitonthegovernorand toacquainthimIhadput in toobtainrefreshmentsand to repairthedamageswehadsustainedinbadweather.TothisIhadaverypoliteanswerfromthegovernor,*thatIshouldbesuppliedwithwhatevertheislandafforded.Ihadalsodirected theofficer toacquainthimthat Iwouldsalute,providedanequal number of gunswere to be returned but, as I received an extraordinaryanswertothispartofmymessage,purportingthathisexcellencydidnotreturnthe same number but to persons equal in rank to himself, this ceremonywasomitted.

(*Footnote.MarquisdeBrancheforte.)

During this interval I was visited by the port-master (Captain Adams) andshortly afterwards several officers came on board from his excellency tocomplimentmeonmyarrival.AssoonastheshipwasmooredIwentonshoreandpaidmyrespectstohim.

Monday7.

On Monday morning I began to forward the ship's business with the utmostdispatch, and gave the necessary directions toMessrs. Collogan and sons, thecontractors, for the supplies Iwanted. I alsogot leaveof thegovernor forMr.Nelsontorangethehillsandexaminethecountryinsearchofplantsandnaturalcuriosities.

AstherewasagreatsurfontheshoreIbargainedforeverythingIwantedtobebrought off by the shore boats, and agreed to give five shillings per ton forwater.Verygoodwinewasboughtattenpoundsperpipe,thecontractprice;butthesuperiorqualitywasfifteenpounds;andsomeofthiswasnotmuchinferiortothebestLondonMadeira.Ifoundthiswasanunfavourableseasonforotherrefreshments:Indiancorn,potatoes,pumpkins,andonions,wereallveryscarceanddouble thepriceofwhat theyare insummer.Beefalsowasdifficult tobeprocured and exceedingly poor; the price nearly sixpence farthing per pound.The cornwas three current dollars per fanega,which is full five shillings perbushel;andbiscuitattwenty-fiveshillingsforthehundredpounds.Poultrywassoscarcethatagoodfowlcost threeshillings.Thisis thereforenotaplaceforshipstoexpectrefreshmentsatareasonablepriceatthistimeoftheyear,wineexcepted;butfromMarchtoNovembersuppliesareplentiful,particularlyfruit,ofwhichat this timewecouldprocurenoneexcepta fewdriedfigsandsomebadoranges.

NAUTICALREMARKS.

Duringourstayheretheweatherwasfairwithnorth-eastwindsandcalmsandsmalldrizzlingraininthenight.Thethermometerfrom66to69degreesatnoonin the shade. I couldmakeno lunar observations for the longitude, but by thehelpofthetimekeeperIhavecomputedthesituationofthetownofSantaCruzto be 28 degrees 28 minutes north latitude and 16 degrees 18 minutes westlongitude.Iobservedthevariationbytwocompassestobe20degrees1minutewest:thismuchexceededwhatIcouldhaveimagined;forin1776Iobserveditonly14degrees40minuteswest; adifferenceofabove fivedegrees inelevenyears: and this makes me reflect on the uncertainty of obtaining the exactdeviationof themagneticpole, andof course its annualvariationwhichnevercan be accurately ascertained unless the observations aremade always in onespotandwiththesamecompass.

Tenerife,thoughconsiderablywithoutthetropic,issonearlywithinthelimitsofthetradewindthatnavigatorsgenerallysteertoitfromtheeastward.TheroadofSantaCruz lies on the east side of the island, at the endof a range of craggyhills,barrenandverylofty,alongwithyousailwestbysouthbycompassintothe road,with a sea unfathomable until near the shore. The anchoring groundmaybeaccountedfromfiftyfathomstotwenty,orevenfifteen.Thebankisverysteep and gives but little time to sound; for which reason it should be doneeffectuallywithaheavy lead,orashipwillbe toonear inbeforeastranger isawareofit:hewilllikewisetoosoonexpecttofindbottom,owingtothegreatdeceptionoftheadjacenthighland.ToobviatethesedifficultiesitisnecessarytoobservethatwhileatownwhichliessomedistancetothesouthwardofSantaCruz is open with the castle on the south part of the road, though you mayappearneartotheshore,thereisnoanchorage;butafteritisshutentirelyinyougetonthebank.Thechurchbearingwestorwestbysouthandthesouthpointofthe road south-west half south to south-west by west is a good situation foranchoring:thedepthabouttwenty-fivefathoms.Thedistancefromtheshorewillbethreequartersofamile;andthesouthernmostlandthatcanbeseenthenwillbeahalforquarterpointofthecompassfartheroutthanthesouthpointoftheroad.

The bottom is black soft mud, with some patches of rocks; for which reasonvessels that lie here any length of time buoy their cables. This precaution,besides being useful in that particular, they thinkmakes them ridemore easywhenthere ismuchseasettingintotheroad,which,with thewindanywaytothesouthwardofeastoratsouth-west,mustbeveryconsiderable;itisthereforeusual tomoorwithfouranchors, thoughmorethantwoarescarceeverofuse.Mooringishoweveradvisableifashipisonlytoremaintwenty-fourhours,andthetighterthebetter,thatthecablesmaykeepclearoftheground.

Thelandingonthebeachisgenerallyimpracticablewithourownboats,atleastwithoutgreatrisk;butthereisaveryfinepieronwhichpeoplemaylandwithoutdifficulty if there is not much swell in the road. To this pier the water isconveyedbypipesfortheuseofshipping,andforwhichallmerchant-shipspay.

There is a degree ofwretchedness andwant among the lower class of peoplewhich is not anywhere so common as among the Spanish and Portuguesesettlements. To alleviate these evils the present governor of Tenerife hasinstituted amost charitable societywhich he takes the trouble to superintend;and by considerable contributions a large airy dwelling that contains one

hundred and twenty poor girls and asmanymen and boys has been built andendowedwithasufficiencyoflandroundit,notonlyforallpresentpurposesbutforenlarging thebuilding formoreobjectsofcharityas their funds increase. Ihadthehonourtobeshownbyhisexcellencythisasylum(Hospiciotheycallit)wherethereappearedineverycountenancetheutmostcheerfulnessandcontent.Thedecencyandneatnessof thedressof theyoungfemales,with theorder inwhich theywere arranged at their spinning-wheels and looms in an extensiveairy apartment, was admirable. A governess inspected and regulated all theirworks,whichwere themanufacturing of ribbons of all colours, coarse linens,and tapes; all which were managed and brought to perfection by themselvesfrom the silk and flax in their first state; even the dying of the colours isperformedbythem.Thesegirlsarereceivedforfiveyears,attheendofwhichthey are at liberty tomarry, andhave for their portions theirwheel and loom,withasumofmoneyproportionedtothestateofthefund,whichisassistedbythe produce of their labour, and at this time was estimated at two thousanddollarsperannum.

Themenandboysarenotlessattendedto:theyareemployedincoarserwork,blanketingandallkindsofcommonwoollens:iftheybecomeinfirmtheyspendtheremainderoftheirdaysherecomfortablyandunderawatchfulinspectorwhoattends them in the samemanner as thegovernessdoes thegirls.They are allvisitedeverydaybythegovernor,andaclergymanattendsthemeveryevening.By this humane institution a number of people are rendered useful andindustriousinacountrywherethepoor,fromtheindulgenceoftheclimate,aretoo apt to prefer a life of inactivity, though attended with wretchedness, toobtainingthecomfortsoflifebyindustryandlabour.

The number of inhabitants in the island I was informed were estimated atbetweeneightyandonehundredthousand.Theirannualexportofwineistwentythousandpipesandofbrandyhalfthatquantity.VesselsarefrequentlyherefromSt.Eustatia,andfromthenceagreatquantityofTenerifewineiscarriedtothedifferentpartsoftheWestIndies,underthenameofMadeira.

TenerifeisconsideredofmorevaluethanalltheotherCanaries:theinhabitantshowever, in scarce seasons, receive supplies from theGrandCanary; but theirvineyards here are said to be greatly superior. Their produce of corn, thoughexceedinglygood,isnotsufficientfortheirconsumption;andowingtothistheAmericanshaveanadvantageous tradehere for their flour andgrain, and takewineinreturn.

ThetownofSantaCruzisabouthalfamileinextenteachway,builtinaregularmanner, and the houses in general large and airy, but the streets are very illpaved. I am told that they are subject to few diseases; but if any epidemicdistemperbreaksoutitisattendedwiththemostfatalconsequences,particularlythe smallpox, the bad effects of which they now endeavour to counteract byinoculation.Forthisreasontheyareverycircumspectinadmittingshipstohavecommunicationwiththeshorewithoutbillsofhealth.

A sloop fromLondon, called theChance,WilliamMeridith,master, bound toBarbados,outnineteendaysfromtheDowns,cameintotheroadthedaybeforewesailed.Shehadsufferedmuchbythebadweatherbut,havingbroughtnobillofhealth, thegovernorwouldnot allowanyperson tocomeon shoreunless IcouldvouchforthemthatnoepidemicdiseaseragedinEnglandatthetimetheysailed,which Iwas able to do, it being nearly at the same time that I left theland; and by that means they had the governor's permission to receive thesuppliestheywantedwithoutbeingobligedtoperformquarantine.

Thursday10.

Having finishedourbusiness atTenerifeonThursday the10thwe sailedwiththewindatsouth-east,ourship'scompanyallingoodhealthandspirits.

I nowdivided the people into threewatches, and gave the charge of the thirdwatchtoMr.FletcherChristian,oneofthemates.Ihavealwaysconsideredthisasadesirableregulationwhencircumstanceswilladmitofitonmanyaccounts;and am persuaded that unbroken rest not only contributes much towards thehealthofaship'scompanybutenablesthemmorereadilytoexertthemselvesincasesofsuddenemergency.

AsitwasmywishtoproceedtoOtaheitewithoutstoppingIorderedeverybodytobeattwo-thirdsallowanceofbread:IalsodirectedthewaterfordrinkingtobefilteredthoughdripstonesthatIhadboughtatTenerifeforthatpurpose.

In the eveningwepassed the south endofTenerifewhich is a round lumpofland that, from the lowness of the contiguous land, has at a distance theappearanceofaseparateisland.ByourrunfromthebayofSantaCruzImakethelatitudeofthesouthendofTenerifetobe28degrees6minutesnorth.

Weranallnighttowardsthesouth-south-westhavingthewindatsouth-east.Thenextmorningwecouldseenothingoftheland.Inowmadetheship'scompany

acquaintedwiththeintentofthevoyageand,havingbeenpermittedtoholdoutthisencouragement to them,Igaveassurancesof thecertaintyofpromotiontoeveryonewhoseendeavoursshouldmeritit.

ThewindsforsomedaysafterleavingTenerifeweremostlyfromthesouthward.Fishing-linesandtackleweredistributedamongstthepeopleandsomedolphinswerecaught.

Thursday17.

Onthe17ththewindcameroundtothenorth-eastandcontinuedsteadyinthatquarter till the 25th on which day at noon we were in 3 degrees 54 minutesnorth. As the cloudiness of the sky gave us reason to expect much rain wepreparedtheawningswithhosesfortheconvenienceofsavingwater,inwhichwewere not disappointed. From this time to our meeting with the south-easttradewindwe hadmuchwetweather, the air close and sultrywith calms, andlightvariablewindsgenerallyfromthesouthward.

Tuesday29.

On the 29th there was so heavy a fall of rain that we caught seven hundredgallonsofwater.

Thursday31.

Onthe31st,latitudeatnoon2degrees5minutesnorth,foundacurrentsettingtothe north-east at the rate of fourteen miles in the twenty-four hours. Thethermometerwasat82degreesintheshade,and811/2degreesatthesurfaceofthe sea, so that the air and the water were within half a degree of the sametemperature.Ateighto'clockintheeveningweobservedaviolentripplinginthesea about half a mile to the north-west of us which had very much theappearance of breakers. This I imagine to have been occasioned by a largeschool(ormultitude)offishasitwasexactlyinthetracktheshiphadpassed,sothat if any real shoal had been therewemust have seen it at the close of theeveningwhen a careful lookoutwas always kept.However if it had appearedaheadofusinsteadofasternIshouldcertainlyhavetackedtoavoidit.Tosuchappearances I attribute the accounts of many shoals within the tropics whichcannotbefoundanywherebutinmaps.Ourlatitudeatthistimewas2degrees8minutesnorthandlongitude19degrees43minuteswest.Thenextdaywehadmoreoftheseappearancesfromthenumberofschoolsoffishbywhichtheship

wassurrounded.

February.Saturday2.

Thismorningwesawasailtothenorth-north-westbutattoogreatadistancetodistinguishwhatshewas.

Monday4.

Hadveryheavyrainduringwhichwenearlyfilledallouremptywatercasks.Somuch wet weather, with the closeness of the air, covered everything withmildew. The ship was aired below with fires and frequently sprinkled withvinegar;andeverylittleintervalofdryweatherwastakenadvantageoftoopenall the hatchways, and clean the ship, and to have all the people's wet thingswashedanddried.

With thisweather and light unsteadywindswe advancedbut 21/2degrees intwelve days; at the end of which time we were relieved by the south-easttradewind which we fell in with on the 6th at noon in latitude 1 degree 21minutesnorthandlongitude20degrees42minuteswest.

Thursday7.

Thenext afternoonwecrossed the equinoctial line in longitude21degrees50minuteswest.Theweatherbecamefineandthesouth-easttradewindwasfreshand steady, with which we kept a point free from the wind and got to thesouthwardatagoodrate.

The weather continuing dry we put some of our bread in casks, properlyprepared for its reception, to preserve it from vermin: this experiment weafterwardsfoundansweredexceedinglywell.

Saturday16.

Onthe16thatdaylightwesawasailtothesouthward.Thenextdaywecameupwith her and found her to be the British Queen, Simon Paul, master, fromLondon,boundtotheCapeofGoodHopeonthewhale-fishery.ShesailedfromFalmouththe5thofDecember,eighteendaysbeforeIleftSpithead.BythisshipIwrotetoEngland.Atsunsetshewasalmostoutofsightastern.

Monday18.

Inthecourseofthisday'srunthevariationchangedfromwesttoeast.Accordingto our observations the true and magnetic meridians coincided in latitude 20degrees0minutessouthandlongitude31degrees15minuteswest.Atnoonwewere in latitude 20 degrees 44 minutes south and longitude 31 degrees 23minuteswest.Inouradvancestowardsthesouththewindhadgraduallyveeredround to the east and was at this time at east-north-east. The weather aftercrossing theLine had been fine and clear, but the air so sultry as to occasiongreat faintness, the quicksilver in the thermometer in the daytime standing atbetween81and83degrees,andonetimeat85degrees.Inourpassagethroughthe northern tropic the air was temperate, the sun having then high southdeclination and the weather being generally fine till we lost the north-easttradewind;butsuchathickhazesurroundedthehorizonthatnoobjectcouldbeseenexceptataverysmalldistance.Thehazecommonlyclearedawayatsunsetandgatheredagainatsunrise.Betweenthenorth-eastandsouth-easttradewindsthecalmsandrains, ifof longcontinuance,arevery liable toproducesicknessunlessgreatattentionispaidtokeepingtheshipcleanandwholesomebygivingall theairpossible,dryingbetweendeckswith fires,anddryingandairing thepeople's clothes and bedding. Besides these precautions we frequently wettedwithvinegar,andeveryeveningthepumpswereusedasventilators.Withtheseendeavours to secure health we passed the low latitudes without a singlecomplaint.

Thecurrentswemetwithwerebynomeansregular,norhaveIeverfoundthemsointhemiddleoftheocean.HoweverfromthechanneltothesouthwardasfarasMadeirathereisgenerallyacurrentsettingtothesouth-south-east.

Thursday21.

On theeveningof the21stashipwasseen in thenorth-eastbutat toogreatadistancetodistinguishofwhatcountry.

Friday22.

Thenextdaythewindcameroundtothenorthandnorth-westsothatwecouldno longer consider ourselves in the tradewind. Our latitude at noon was 25degrees 55minutes south, longitude 36 degrees 29minuteswest.Variation ofthecompassthreedegreeseast.

Saturday23.

Towardsnight thewinddiedawayandwehadsomeheavyshowersofrainofwhichwe profited by saving a ton of goodwater. The next daywe caught asharkandfivedolphins.

Tuesday26.

Webentnewsailsandmadeothernecessarypreparationsforencountering theweatherthatwastobeexpectedinahighlatitude.Ourlatitudeatnoonwas29degrees 38minutes south, longitude 41 degrees 44minutes west. Variation 7degrees13minuteseast.Intheafternoon,thewindbeingwesterlyandblowingstronginsqualls,somebutterfliesandotherinsectslikewhatwecallhorseflieswereblownonboardofus.Nobirdswereseenexceptshearwaters.OurdistancefromthecoastofBrazilatthistimewasabove100leagues.

March.Sunday2.

In the forenoon, after seeing that every person was clean, divine service wasperformed according to my usual custom on this day. I gave toMr. FletcherChristian,whomIhadbeforedirectedtotakechargeofthethirdwatch,awrittenordertoactaslieutenant.

Saturday8.

We were at noon in latitude 36 degrees 50 minutes south and longitude 52degrees53minuteswest.Thelastfourdaysweseveraltimestriedforsoundingswithoutfindingbottom,thoughconsiderablytothewestwardofCaptainWallis'track,whohadsoundingsat fifty-four fathomsdepth in latitude35degrees40minutessouthandlongitude49degrees54minuteswest.Thisdaywetriedwithtwohundredandfortyfathomsoflinebutdidnotfindbottom;atthesametime,observingaripplinginthewater,wetriedthecurrentbymooringakegwithonehundredfathomsofline,bywhichitappearedtoruntothenorth-north-westattherateofamileandahalfperhour.Bythenoonobservationhoweverwewereeighteenmiles to the southward of our reckoning. In the afternoonwe saw aturtlefloatingand,nothavingmuchwind,hoistedaboatoutandsentafterit;butitwasfoundtobeinaputridstatewithanumberofcrabsfeedinguponit.

Thechangeoftemperaturebegannowtobesensiblyfelt,therebeingavariationinthethermometersinceyesterdayofeightdegrees.Thatthepeoplemightnot

sufferbytheirownnegligenceIgaveordersfortheirlighttropicalclothingtobeputby,andmade themdress inamannermoresuited toacoldclimate. IhadprovidedforthisbeforeIleftEnglandbygivingdirectionsforsuchclothestobepurchasedaswerenecessary.

Monday10.

Intheforenoonwestrucksoundingsateighty-threefathomsdepth;ourlatitude40 degrees 8minutes south and longitude 55 degrees 40minuteswest. This Iconclude tohavebeennear theedgeof thebank for, thewindbeingat south-south-west,westoodtowardsthesouth-east;andafterrunningfourteenmilesinthatdirectionwecould findnobottomwithonehundredandsixty fathomsofline. In thenightwe stood towards thewest-south-westwith a southerlywindandgotagainintosoundings.Thenextdaywesawagreatnumberofwhalesofan immense size that had two spout-holes on the back of the head. Upon acomplaintmade tome by themaster I found it necessary to punishMatthewQuintal,oneof theseamen,with twodozen lashes for insolenceandmutinousbehaviour.BeforethisIhadnothadoccasiontopunishanypersononboard.

Wednesday12.

On the 12thwe caught a porpoise by striking itwith the grains.Everyone eatheartilyofit;anditwassowelllikedthatnopartwaswasted.

Friday14.

Onthe14thintheafternoonwesawaland-birdlikealark,andpassedpartofadeadwhalethathadbeenleftbysomewhalersaftertheyhadtakentheblubberoff. Saw likewise two strange sail. The next day at noon our latitudewas 43degrees 6 minutes south and longitude 58 degrees 42 minutes west. Hadsoundings at seventy-five fathoms; the bottom a fine greenish sand. Saw twohawks.

Sunday16.

On the 16th another ship was seen to the west-north-west standing to thenorthward.Latitudeatnoon43degrees34minutessouth.Wecontinuedrunningtothesouthwardkeepinginsoundings.

Wednesday19.

On the 19th at noon by my account we were within twenty leagues of PortDesire;butthewindblowingfreshfromthenorth-westwiththickfoggyweatherIdidnotattempttomaketheland.Wepassedagooddealofrock-weedandsawmanywhales,andalbatrossesandotherseabirds.

Thursday20.

Onthe20thatnoonourlatitudewas50degrees24minutessouthandlongitude65degrees50minuteswest.Intheafternoonthewind,whichhadforsometimepastbeennortherly,suddenlyshiftedtothewest-south-westandblewhard.

Sunday23.

Westeeredtothesouth-south-eastandonthe23rdattwoo'clockinthemorningwediscovered thecoastofTierradelFuegobearing south-east.Atnine in theforenoon we were off Cape St. Diego, the eastern part of Tierra del Fuego.Observed the variation here to be 21 degrees 23 east. The wind beingunfavourableI thought itmoreadvisable togoroundto theeastwardofStatenLandthantoattemptpassingthroughStraits leMaire.ThetwooppositecoastsoftheStraitsexhibitedverydifferentappearances.ThelandofTierradelFuegohereabouts,thoughtheinteriorpartsaremountainous,yetnearthecoastisofamoderateheight and, at thedistancewewere from it, hadnot anunpromisingappearance.ThecoastofStatenLandneartheStraitsismountainousandcraggy,andremarkableforitshighpeakedhills.StraitsleMaireisafairopeningwhichcannot well be mistaken; but if any doubt could remain, the differentappearancesoftheoppositeshoreswouldsufficientlymaketheStraitsknown.

I did not sailwithin less than six leagues of the coast thatwemight have thewindmoreregularandavoidbeingexposed to theheavysqualls thatcameofffrom the land.At noonCape St. Anthony bore south and thewesternmost ofNew Year's Isles south-east one-quarter south, five or six leagues. Latitudeobserved54degrees28minutessouth,longitude64degrees4minuteswest.

ThesightofNewYear'sHarbouralmosttemptedmetoputin;butthelatenessoftheseasonandthepeoplebeingingoodhealthdeterminedmetolayasideallthoughts of refreshment untilwe should reachOtaheite.At two o'clock in theafternoontheeasternmostofNewYear'sIsles,whereCaptainCookobservedthelatitudetobe55degrees40minutessouth,borefromussouthfourleagues.Wesaw theentrance islesofNewYear'sharbour at thebackofwhich the land is

verycraggyandmountainous.Thismustbeaveryconvenientporttotouchatastheaccess to it is safeandeasy.Theharbour liessouth-south-eastbycompassfromthenorth-eastpartoftheeasternmostoftheNewYear'sIslands.

AbouttwoleaguestothewestwardofCapeSt.JohnIobservedtheseparationofthemountainsthatCaptainCookhastakennoticeof,whichhastheappearanceofStatenLandbeingtheredividedintotwoislands.

At sunset Cape St. John bore south-south-east five or six leagues. The landhereaboutsisoflessheightandnotsoruggedasnearNewYear'sHarbour.Thenight coming on I could get no good view of the coast near theCape; and atdaylightnextmorningwewereattoogreatadistance.

Monday24.

Wehadstood to thesouthwardallnightwith thewindatwest-south-westandsouth-west.Ateight in themorningCapeSt. Johnborenorth-west ten leaguesdistant.Soonafterwelostsightoftheland.

Fromtheresultofmylunarobservations,assistedbythetimekeeper,Imakethelongitudeof thewest sideofStraits leMaire64degrees48minuteswest; theeasternmost of the New Year's isles 63 degrees 52 minutes west; and thelongitudeofCapeSt.John63degrees19minuteswest.

Inourrunfromthelatitudeof12degreessouthto48degreessouththeshipwasset2degrees30minutestotheeastwardbycurrents;andfromthelatitudeof48degrees south toStatenLand thecurrents setus to thewestward2degrees43minutes; which I imagine to have been occasioned by an indraught into theStraitsofMagellan.

From the time we lost sight of the land to the end of the month we werestrugglingwithbadweatherandcontrarywinds.

Monday31.

Butonthemorningofthe31stthewindcametothenorth-north-eastandmadeusentertaingreathopesthatweshouldbeabletoaccomplishourpassageroundthe Cape without much difficulty. At noon we were in latitude 60 degrees 1minutesouthandin71degrees45minuteswestlongitude,whichis8degrees26minuteswestof themeridianofCapeSt. John.This flatteringappearancewas

not of long continuance: in the night the wind became variable and next daysettledagaininthewestandnorth-westwithverybadweather.

April.Wednesday2.

Onthe2ndinthemorningthewind,whichhadblownfreshallnightfromthenorth-west,cameroundtothesouth-westandincreasedtoaheavygale.Atsixinthemorning thestormexceededwhat Ihadevermetwithbefore;and thesea,from the frequent shifting of the wind, running in contrary directions, brokeexceedinghigh.Ourshiphowever lay toverywellunderamainandfore-staysail.Thegale continuedwith severe squalls of hail and sleet the remainder ofthisandallthenextday.

Friday4.

Onthe4ththewindwaslessviolentbutfarfrommoderate.WithsomuchbadweatherIfounditnecessarytokeepaconstantfirenightandday;andoneofthewatchalwaysattendedtodrythepeople'swetclothes:andthisIhavenodoubtcontributedasmuchtotheirhealthastotheircomfort.

Ourcompanionsinthisinhospitableregionwerealbatrossesandtwobeautifulkinds of birds, the small blue petrel and pintada.A greatmany of thesewerefrequentlyabout thewakeof theship,whichinducedthepeople tofloata linewithhooksbaitedtoendeavourtocatchthemandtheirattemptsweresuccessful.Themethodtheyusedwastofastenthebaitafootortwobeforethehookand,bygivingthelineasuddenjerkwhenthebirdwasatthebait,itwashookedinthefeetorbody.

Sunday6.

Onthe6ththeweatherwasmoderateandcontinuedsotillthe9thwiththewindveeringbetweenthenorth-westandsouth-west;ofwhichwewereable to takeadvantage.

Monday7.

On the 7th observed the variation 27 degrees 9 minutes east; our latitude 60degrees24minutessouthandlongitude75degrees54minuteswest.

Wednesday9.

On the 9th at noonwewere in latitude 59 degrees 31minutes south and ourlongitude76degrees58minuteswest,whichisfarthertothewestthanwehadyet been. Theweather was now unfavourable again, blowing strong from thewestwardwithahighsea.

On the 10th we saw some fish which appeared spotted and about the size ofbonetos:theseweretheonlyfishwehadseeninthishighlatitude.

Saturday12.

Thestormyweathercontinuedwithagreatsea.Theshipnowbegantocomplainandrequiredtobepumpedeveryhour;whichwasnomorethanwehadreasontoexpectfromsuchacontinuanceofgalesofwindandhighseas.Thedecksalsobecame so leaky that itwas obliged to allot the great cabin, ofwhich Imadelittleuseexceptinfineweather,tothosepeoplewhohadwetberthstohangtheirhammocksin,andbythismeansthebetweendeckswaslesscrowded.

Everymorningall thehammocksweretakendownfromwheretheyhung,andwhen the weather was too bad to keep them upon deck theywere put in thecabin; so that thebetweendeckswerecleaneddailyandairedwith fires if thehatchwayscouldnotbeopened.Withallthisbadweatherwehadtheadditionalmortification to find at the end of every day that wewere losing ground; fornotwithstanding our utmost exertions and keeping on the most advantageoustacks (which if the weather had been at all moderate would have sufficientlyansweredourpurpose)yetthegreaterpartofthetimeweweredoinglittlebetterthandriftingbeforethewind.

Sunday13.

Birds asusualwere about the ship and someof themcaught; and for the firsttimesinceweleftStatenLandwesawsomewhales.Thismorning,owingtotheviolentmotionoftheship, thecookfellandbrokeoneofhisribs,andanotherman, by a fall, dislocated his shoulder. The gunner who had the charge of awatch was laid up with the rheumatism: and this was the first sicklist thatappearedonboardtheship.Thetimeoffullmoonwhichwasapproachingmademeentertainhopes thatafter thatperiodweshouldexperiencesomechangeofwind or weather in our favour; but the event did not at all answer ourexpectations.Thelatitudeatnoonthisdaywas58degrees9minutessouthandlongitude76degrees1minutewest.

Aswe caught a goodmanybirds butwhichwere all lean and tasted fishywetried an experiment upon themwhich succeeded admirably. By keeping themcoopedupandcrammingthemwithgroundcorntheyimprovedwonderfullyinashorttime;sothatthepintadabirdsbecameasfineasducks,andthealbatrosseswereasfat,andnotinferiorintasteto,finegeese.Someofthelatterbirdswerecaught that measured seven feet between the extremities of the wings whenspread.Thisunexpectedsupplycameveryopportunely;fornoneofourlivestockremainedexcepthogs,thesheepandpoultrynotbeinghardyenoughtostandtheseverityoftheweather.

Sunday20.

Thismorningthewinddiedawayandwehadacalmforafewhourswhichgaveushopes that thenextwouldbeamorefavourablewind.Ahogwaskilledforthe ship's companywhichgave theman excellentmeal.Towardsnoon, toourgreat disappointment, thewind sprang up again from thewestward and in theafternoonblewstrongwithsnowandhailstorms.

Monday21.

Thiswas theseconddayafter the fullmoonbut,as Ihave remarkedbefore, ithadnoinfluenceontheweather.Atnoonourlatitudewas58degrees31minutessouthandlongitude70degrees7minuteswest,whichisnearsevendegreestothe eastward of our situation on themorning of the 9th instant,whenwe hadadvancedthefarthestinourpowertothewestward,beingthenin76degrees58minuteswest, threedegrees to thewestofCapeDeseada, thewest part of theStraitsofMagellan;andatthistimewewere3degrees52minutestotheeastofitandhourlylosingground.

ItwaswithmuchconcernIsawhowhopelessandevenunjustifiable itwas topersist any longer inattemptingapassage thisway to theSociety Islands.Wehadbeenthirtydaysinthistempestuousocean.Atonetimewehadadvancedsofartothewestwardastohaveafairprospectofmakingourpassageround;butfromthatperiodhardgalesofwesterlywindhadcontinuedwithoutintermission,afewhoursexcepted,which,toborrowanexpressioninLordAnson'svoyage,were "like the elements drawing breath to return upon us with redoubledviolence." The season was now too far advanced for us to expect morefavourable winds or weather, and we had sufficiently experienced theimpossibilityofbeating roundagainst thewind,orofadvancingatallwithout

the help of a fair wind for which there was little reason to hope. Anotherconsideration which had great weight with me was that, if I persisted in myattemptthiswayandshouldafterallfailtogetround,itwouldoccasionsuchaloss of time that our arrival at Otaheite soon enough to return in the properseasonbytheEastIndieswouldberenderedprecarious.Ontheotherhandtheprevalenceofthewesterlywindsinhighsouthernlatitudesleftmenoreasontodoubtofmakingaquickpassage to theCapeofGoodHopeand thence to theeastwardroundNewHolland.

Tuesday22.

HavingmaturelyconsideredallcircumstancesIdeterminedtobearawayfortheCapeofGoodHope; andat fiveo'clockon theeveningof the22nd, thewindthenblowingstrongatwest,Iorderedthehelmtobeputaweather,tothegreatjoy of every person on board.Our sicklist at this time had increased to eight,mostly with rheumatic complaints: in other respects the people were in goodhealth,thoughexceedinglyjaded.

Thepassage roundCapeHorn into theSouthSeasduring the summermonthshasseldombeenattendedwithdifficultyandistobepreferredinthemoderateseasonstothemoredistantroutetotheeastwardroundtheCapeofGoodHopeandNewHolland.Ifwehadbeenonemonthearlier,orperhapsless,Idoubtnotbutweshouldhaveeffectedourpassage.

ThesoundingsthataremetwithoffthecoastofAmerica,fromthelatitudeof36degreessouthtothesouthward,areveryconvenienttoenableshipstojudgeoftheirdistancefromtheland,asthickfogsareveryfrequentnearthatcoast.Ifthewindsarefavourable, togo throughStraits leMairemustconsiderablyshortenthepassageroundCapeHorn,asallthedistancesavedissomuchgainedtothewestward. I am informed that severalharbourshavebeen latelydiscoveredbythe South Sea whalers on the north side of Staten Island that afford safeanchoragewithsuppliesofwoodandwater.

While wewere off CapeHorn I did not observe that our situationwas at allaffectedbycurrents.

CHAPTER3.PassagetowardstheCapeofGoodHopeandSearchafterTristandaCunha.ArrivalatFalseBay.Occurrencesthere.ReportsconcerningtheGrosvenor'sPeople.DeparturefromtheCape.

1788.April.Friday25.

Thewesterlywindsandstormyweathercontinuinggavemenoreasontorepentofmy determination. On the 25th at noonwewere in latitude 54 degrees 16minutes south and longitude 57 degrees 4 minutes west. The nearest of theFalklandIslandsbymyreckoningthenborenorth13degreeswest;distance23leagues. Our stock ofwater being sufficient to serve us to the Cape ofGoodHopeIdidnotthinkitworthwhiletostopattheseislandsastherefreshmentwemightobtaintherewouldscarcerepayusfortheexpenseoftime:wethereforecontinuedourcoursetowardsthenorth-eastandeast-north-east.

May.Friday9.

Onthe9thofMayateighto'clockintheeveningwewerenearthesituationofTristandaCunha,our latitudebeing37degrees7minutessouthand longitude15degrees26minuteswest.Alltheafternoontheweatherhadbeenclearenoughfor land of a moderate height to be seen at least seven leagues; I thereforeconcluded thatwehadnot yet passed themeridian of the island; for themostwesternpositiongiventoitfromanyauthorityis15degrees0minuteswest.

AsIwishedtomakethisislandwekeptourwindondifferenttacksduringthenight,thatwemightbenearlyinthesameplaceatdaylightinthemorningasonthe preceding evening: in themorning no land being in sightwe continued tosteertotheeastward.

Saturday10.

Weranonalldayhavingclearweatherbutwithoutseeinganythingtoindicateourbeingnear land.Atnoonour latitudeobservedwas37degrees27minutessouthwhich,beingmoretothesouthwardthanwehadreasontoexpect,Ialtered

the course to the northward and steered north-east all the afternoon. At sixo'clock in the evening we were in latitude 37 degrees 0 minutes south andlongitude12degrees42minuteswest,havingaclearhorizonbutnot the leastsign of being in the neighbourhood of land.With the night came thick rainyweatherandwewerenowtotheeastwardofthesituationascribedtoTristandaCunha;IthereforedeterminedtogiveoverthesearchandtoresumeourcoursetowardstheCapeofGoodHope.

The island of Tristan da Cunha, by Robertson's Elements, is laid down in 37degrees12minutessouthlatitudeand13degrees23minuteswestlongitude.InCaptainCook'sgeneralmap,prefixedtohislastvoyage,itisplacedinthesamelatitudebutin15degreeswestlongitude.FromourtrackandtheclearnessoftheweatherIamconvinced,ifthelatitudeascribedtoitasaboveiscorrect,thatitisnot to be found between themeridians of 16 degrees 30minuteswest and 12degrees30minuteswest.Onthe13thIhadanumberoflunarobservationsforthelongitude,themeanofwhichagreedexactlywiththetimekeeper.*

(*Footnote.InMr.Dalrymple'sCollectionofPlanswhichIhadnotwithmethenorthernmostoftheIslandsofTristand'Acunhaisplacedinlatitude37degrees22minutessouthandlongitude13degrees17minuteswest.Ithinkitprobablewemissedthembybeingtoomuchtothenorthward.

InthispassagetheweatherwasgenerallysocloudythatIhadfewopportunitiesto make observations of any kind except for the noon latitudes. I could notdetermine when we crossed the line of no variation. The two nearestobservationstoitwere:thefirstin39degrees51minutessouthlatitudeand26degrees 11 minutes west longitude, where the variation of the compass wasfound tobe3degrees17minuteseast;and theother in latitude35degrees30minutes south and longitude 5 degrees 21minuteswest,where I observed thevariation 11 degrees 35 minutes west; between these we had no intermediateobservationforthevariation.

Thursday22.

AttwointheafternoonwesawtheTableMountainoftheCapeofGoodHope.As it is reckonedunsafe riding inTableBay at this timeof year I steered forFalseBay.Thenexteveningweanchoredintheouterpart.

Saturday24.

Andontheforenoonofthe24thgottheshipsecuredinSimon'sBay,whichisin

theinnerpartofFalseBay.Whenmoored,Noah'sarkboresouth35degreeseastthree-quartersofamile,andthehospitalsouth72west.WefoundlyinghereoneoutwardboundDutchIndiaman,fiveotherDutchships,andaFrenchship.

Aftersalutingthefort,whichwasreturnedbyanequalnumberofguns,IwentonshoreanddispatchesweresentawaytoCapeTowntoacquaintthegovernorofourarrival.ADutchshipatthistimelyinginTableBayboundforEurope,Isent lettersbyher to theAdmiralty. It isveryunusual forships tobe inTableBaysolateintheyear,onaccountofthestrongnorth-westwinds.April isthetimelimited.

Igavethenecessarydirectionsforgettingourwantssupplied.Theshiprequiredto be caulked in every part for she was become so leaky that we had beenobliged to pump every hour in our passage from Cape Horn. This weimmediately set about, as well as repairing our sails and rigging. The severeweather we had met with and the leakiness of the ship made it necessary toexamineintothestateofallthestoresandprovisions.Ofthelatteragooddealwas founddamaged,particularly thebread.The timekeeper I tookon shore toascertain its rate, and other instruments to make the necessary astronomicalobservations.Freshmeat,withsoftbreadandplentyofvegetables,wereissueddailytotheship'scompanythewholetimeweremainedhere.AfewdaysafterourarrivalIwentovertoCapeTownandwaitedonhisexcellencyM.VanderGraaf,thegovernor,whoobliginglyarrangedmatterssomuchtoouradvantagethat we scarcely felt the inconvenience of being at a distance from the CapeTown,whencewereceivedalloursupplies.

The Cape Town is considerably increased within the last eight years. Itsrespectabilitywithregard tostrengthhaskeptpacewith itsotherenlargementsand rendered it very secure against any attempt which is not made withconsiderable force.Greatattention ispaid tomilitaryorderanddiscipline;andmonthly signals are established to communicate with their shipping as theyarrivenearthecoastthattheymaynotrununawaresintothehandsofanenemy.IfoundeverythingmuchdearerthanwhenIwasherein1780.SheepcostfourSpanishdollarseachandwere so small that it answeredbetter topurchase themuttonfortheship'sdailyuseatfourpenceperpound.

During our stay here I took care to procure seeds and plants that would bevaluable at Otaheite and the different places we might touch at in our waythither.InthisIwasgreatlyassistedbycolonelGordon,thecommanderofthe

troops.IncompanywiththisgentlemanthelossoftheGrosvenorEastIndiamanwas mentioned: on this subject colonel Gordon expressed great concern thatfromanythinghehadsaidhopeswerestillentertainedtoflattertheaffectionatewishesof thesurvivingfriendsof thoseunfortunatepeople.Hesaid that inhistravels into theCaffrecountryhehadmetwithanativewhodescribed tohimthattherewasawhitewomanamonghiscountrymenwhohadachild,andthatshefrequentlyembracedthechildandcriedmostviolently.Thiswasallhe(thecolonel) could understand and, being then on his return homewith his healthmuchimpairedbyfatigue,theonlythingthathecoulddowastomakeafriendofthenativebypresentsandpromisesofrewardonconditionthathewouldtakea letter to this woman and bring him back an answer. Accordingly he wrotelettersinEnglish,French,andDutchdesiringthatsomesignormarkmightbereturned,eitherbywritingwithaburntstickorbyanymeanssheshouldbeableto devise, to satisfy him that shewas there; and that on receiving such tokenfromhereveryeffort shouldbemade toensureher safetyandescape.But theCaffre, although apparently delighted with the commission which he hadundertaken,neverreturned,norhasthecoloneleverheardanythingmoreofhim,thoughhehadbeeninstructedinmethodsofconveyinginformationthroughtheHottentotcountry.

Tothisaccount,thatImaynotagainhaveoccasiontointroducesomelancholyasubject,IshalladdthelittleinformationIreceivedrespectingitwhenIrevisitedthe Cape in my return towards Europe. A reputable farmer of the name ofHolhousen, who lives at Swellendam, eight days journey from the Cape, hadinformation from some Caffre Hottentots that at a kraal or village in theircountry therewerewhitemenandwomen.Onthis intelligenceMr.Holhousenasked permission of the governor to make an expedition with some of thefarmers into thecountry, requiringa thousand rix-dollars tobearhisexpenses.Thegovernor referredhim toMr.Wocke, theLandrosofGraafRienet, anewcolonyinhisway.ButfromtheplacewhereMr.HolhousenlivestotheLandros,Mr. Wocke's residence, is a month's journey, which he did not choose toundertake at an uncertainty, as Mr. Wocke might have disapproved of theenterprise. It was in October last that Mr. Holhousen offered to go on thisservice.Hewasoneofthepartywhowentalongthesea-coastinsearchoftheseunfortunatepeoplewhenafewofthemfirstmadetheirappearanceattheCape.Iam however informed that theDutch farmers are fond ofmaking expeditionsintothecountry,thattheymayhaveopportunitiesoftakingawaycattle;andthisIapprehendtobeoneofthechiefreasonswhyundertakingsofthiskindarenotencouraged.

Onthe13thofJunetheDublinEastIndiamanarrivedfromEngland,onboardofwhich ship was a party of the 77th regiment under the command of colonelBalfour.

The result ofmy lunarobservationsgave for the longitudeofSimon'sBay18degrees 48 minutes 34 seconds east; the latitude 34 degrees 11 minutes 34seconds south. The timekeeper likewise made the longitude 18 degrees 47minuteseast.Thelongitudeasestablishedbyformerobservationsis18degrees33 minutes east. The variation of the compass on shore was 24 degrees 4minuteswest;butonboardoftheshipitwasonly22degrees28minuteswest.Thetimeofhigh-waterwasthree-quarterspasttwoonthefullandchangeanditthenflowedsixfeet.

With respect to the Cape Promontory it lies about three miles east of themeridian of Simon's Town. All the tables of latitude and longitude place theCapein34degrees29minutessouthlatitude;butfrommanyobservationsoffitwith good instruments Imake it to lie in 34 degrees 23minutes south,whichagreeswith itssituationas laiddowninmajorRennel'smap.ThepartwhichIcalltheCapeisthesouthernmostpointofthelandbetweenTableBayandFalseBay;buttheDutchconsiderthewesternmostpartofthecoasttobetheCape.

Sunday29.

On the 29th, being ready for sea, I took the timekeeper and instruments onboard.Theerrorof the timekeeperwas333seconds,2 tooslowfor themeantime at Greenwich, and its rate of going 3 seconds per day, losing. Thethermometerduringourstayherewasfrom51to66degrees.

July.Tuesday1.

Wehadbeenthirty-eightdaysatthisplace,andmypeoplehadreceivedalltheadvantage that could be derived from the refreshments of every kind that arehere to bemetwith.We sailed at four o'clock this afternoon, and saluted theplatformwiththirteengunsasweranoutofthebay,whichwerereturned.

CHAPTER4.PassagetowardsVanDiemen'sLand.MaketheIslandofSt.Paul.ArrivalinAdventureBay.Nativesseen.SailfromVanDiemen'sLand.

1788.July.

WelostsightofthelandthedayafterleavingFalseBayandsteeredtowardstheeast-south-east, having variable winds the first week with much thunder,lightningandrain.Theremainderofthispassagethewindsweremostlybetweenthesouthandwestblowingstrong.Therewerealmosteverydaygreatnumbersofpintada,albatrosses,bluepetrels,andotheroceanicbirdsaboutus;butitwasobserved that if thewind came from the northward, only for a fewhours, thebirdsgenerallyleftus,andtheirpresenceagainwastheforerunnerofasoutherlywind.

Sunday13.

The variation of the compasswas 30 degrees 34minuteswestwhichwas thegreatest variation we found in this track. Our latitude 36 degrees 28 minutessouthandlongitude39degrees0minuteseast.

Sunday20.

Thelatitudeatnoonwas40degrees30minutessouthandlongitude60degrees7minuteseast.Wewereatthistimescuddingunderthefore-sailandclose-reefedmain-top-sail, thewind blowing strong from thewest.Anhour after noon thegaleincreasedandblewwithsomuchviolencethattheshipwasalmostdrivenforecastle under beforewe couldget the sails clewedup.As soon as the sailsweretakeninwebroughttheshiptothewind,loweredtheloweryards,andgotthetop-gallant-mastsupondeck,whicheasedtheshipverymuch.

Monday21.

We remained lying to till eight thenextmorningwhenwebore awayunder a

reefedfore-sail.Intheafternoonthesearansohighthatitbecameveryunsafetostandon:wethereforebroughttothewindagain,andremainedlyingtoallnightwithout accident excepting that the man at the steerage was thrown over thewheelandmuchbruised.

Tuesday22.

Towardsnoon theviolenceof thestormabatedandweagainboreawayunderthe reefed fore-sail. Our latitude at noon 38 degrees 49minutes south: in theafternoonsawsomewhales.

Wecontinued running to theeastward in thisparallel, itbeingmy intention tomaketheislandSt.Paul.

Monday28.

OnMonday the 28th at six in themorningwe saw the island bearing east bynorth12leaguesdistant:between10and11o'clockweranalongthesouthsideatabouta leaguedistant from theshore.Therewasaverdure thatcovered thehigherpartsof the land,but Ibelieve itwasnothingmore thanmosswhich iscommonly foundon the topsofmost rocky islands in these latitudes.We sawseveralwhalesneartheshore.Theextentofthisislandisfivemilesfromeasttowest;andabouttwoorthreefromnorthtosouth.Aswepassedtheeastendwesawaremarkablehighsugarloafrock,abreastofwhichIhavebeeninformedisgoodanchoragein23fathoms,theeastpointbearingsouth-westbysouthbytruecompass. Ihad this informationfromthecaptainofaDutchpacket inwhichIreturned toEurope.He likewise said therewasgood freshwateron the islandand a hot springwhich boiled fish in as great perfection as on a fire. By hisaccount the latitude which he observed in the road is 38 degrees 39 minutessouth;andfromtheanchoringplacetheislandofAmsterdamwasinsighttothenorthward.Wehadfairweatheralltheforenoon,butjustatnoonasquallcameon which was unfavourable for our observation. I had however two sets ofdoublealtitudesandagoodaltitudeexactlyatnoonaccordingtothetimekeeper.TheresultofthesegaveforthelatitudeofthecentreofSt.Paul38degrees47minutessouth.ThelongitudeImake77degrees39minuteseast.Thevariationofthecompass,takingthemeanofwhatitwasobservedtobethedaybeforewesawtheislandandthedayafter,is19degrees30minuteswest.

At noonwewere three leagues past the island.We kept on towards the east-

south-east,andforseveraldayscontinuedtoseerock-weed,whichisremarkedtobegenerallythecaseaftershipspassSt.Paul's;buttothewestwardofitveryseldomanyisseen.

August.Wednesday13.

Inlatitude44degrees16minutessouth,longitude122degrees7minuteseast,Iobservedthevariationofthecompasstobe6degrees23minuteswest.Ihadnoopportunitytoobserveitagaintillinthelatitudeof43degrees56minutessouth,longitude133degrees16minuteseast,whenitwas1degree38minuteseast;sothatwehadpassedthelineofnovariation.In1780,onboardtheResolutioninlatitude44degrees23minutessouth,longitude131degrees28minuteseast,thevariation was observed 6 degrees 0 minutes west, which is a remarkabledifference.Wehadmuchbadweatherwithsnowandhail,andinourapproachtoVanDiemen'sLandnothingwas seen to indicate the nearness of the coast,exceptaseal,whenwewerewithinthedistanceof20leagues.

Tuesday19.

Atteno'clockthisafternoonwesawtherocknamedtheMewstone,thatliesnearthesouth-westcapeofVanDiemen'sLand,bearingnorth-eastaboutsixleagues.The wind blew strong from the north-west. As soon as we had passed theMewstone we were sheltered from a very heavy sea which ran from thewestward.Ateighto'clockatnightwewereabreastofthesouthcapewhenthewindbecamelightandvariable.Sawseveralfiresinland.

TheMewstoneisahighboldrockthatliesfiveleaguestothesouth-eastofthesouth-westcapeandisthepartthatallshipsboundthiswayshouldendeavourtomake. Its latitude is 43 degrees 46 or 47 minutes. Several islands lie to thenorthwardbetweenthatandthemain,amongwhich,bearingnorthbywestfromtheMewstone,isahighrockmuchresemblingit;andnorth-north-eastfromtheMewstone, on the mainland, is a remarkable high mountain, which in thisdirectionappearsnotchedlikeacock'scomb;butasviewedfromtheeastwardseemsround.

Wednesday20.

All the 20th we were endeavouring to get into Adventure Bay but werepreventedbyvariablewinds.Thenextmorningat fiveo'clockweanchored intheouterpart,andatsunriseweighedagain:atnoonweanchoredwellinthebay

andmoored the ship, Penguin Island bearing north 57 1/2 degrees east, abouttwomilesdistant;CapeFredericHenrynorth23degreeseast;andthemouthoftheLagoonsouth16degreeseast.

In our passage from theCape ofGoodHope thewindsweremostly from thewestwardwithveryboisterousweather:butonegreatadvantagethatthisseasonof the year has over the summer months is in being free from fogs. I havealready remarked that theapproachof strongsoutherlywinds isannouncedbymany kinds of birds of the albatross or petrel tribe, and the abatement of thegale, or a shift of wind to the northward, by their keeping away. Thethermometer also very quickly shows when a change of these winds may beexpectedbyvaryingsometimessixandsevendegreesinitsheight.Ihavereasontobelievethat,afterwepassedtheislandSt.Paul,therewasawesterlycurrent;theshipbeingeverydaytothewestwardofthereckoning,whichinthewhole,fromSt.PaultoVanDiemen'sland,madeadifferenceoffourdegreesbetweenthelongitudebythereckoningandthetruelongitude.

Thursday21.

TheshipbeingmooredIwentinaboattolookoutforthemostconvenientplacetowoodandwaterat,whichIfoundtobeatthewestendofthebeach:forthesurf, thoughconsiderable,wasless therethanatanyotherpartof thebay.Thewaterwasinagullyaboutsixtyyardsfromthebeach;itwasperfectlygoodbut,being only a collection from the rains, the place is always dry in the summermonths; for we found no water in it when I was here with Captain Cook inJanuary1777.Wehadverylittlesuccessinhaulingtheseine;abouttwentysmallflounders,andflat-headedfishcalledfoxeswereallthatweretaken.

I found no signs of the natives having lately frequented this bay or of anyEuropeanvesselshavingbeenheresincetheResolutionandDiscoveryin1777.FromsomeoftheoldtrunksoftreesthencutdownIsawshootsabouttwenty-fivefeethighandfourteeninchesincircumference.

IntheeveningIreturnedonboard.

Friday22.

Thenextmorning,the22nd,atdaylight,apartywassentonshoreforwoodingandwateringunderthecommandofMr.Christianandthegunner;andIdirectedthat oneman should be constantly employed in washing the people's clothes.

Therewassomuchsurfthatthewoodwasobligedtoberaftedoffinbundlestotheboat.Mr.Nelsoninformedmethatinhiswalkstodayhesawatreeinaveryhealthystatewhichhemeasuredandfoundtobe thirty-threefeetandahalf ingirt;itsheightwasproportionedtoitsbulk.

Saturday23.

The surf was rather greater than yesterday which very much interrupted ourwoodingandwatering.Nelson todaypickedupamaleopossum thathadbeenrecentlykilled,orhaddied,forwecouldnotperceiveanywoundunlessithadreceived a blowon the backwhere therewas a bare place about the size of ashilling. Itmeasured fourteen inches from the ears to thebeginningof the tailwhichwasexactlythesamelength.

Most of the forest treeswere at this time shedding their bark.There are threekinds,whicharedistinguishedfromeachotherbytheirleaves,thoughthewoodappearstobethesame.Manyofthemarefullonehundredandfiftyfeethigh;butmostofthosethatwecutdownweredecayedattheheart.Thereare,besidestheforesttrees,severalotherkindsthatarefirmgoodwoodandmaybecutformost purposes except masts; neither are the forest trees good for masts, onaccountoftheirweight,andthedifficultyoffindingthemthoroughlysound.Mr.Nelsonassertedthattheyshedtheirbarkeveryyear,andthattheyincreasemorefromtheseedthanbysuckers.

Ifoundthetidemadeadifferenceoffull twofeetintheheightofthewaterinthelakeatthebackofthebeach.Athighwateritwasverybrackish,butatlowtideitwasperfectlyfreshtothetaste,andsoapshowednosignofitsbeingtheleast impregnated.Wehadbetter success in fishingonboard the ship thanbyhaulingtheseineonshore;forwithhooksandlinesanumberoffinerock-codwerecaught.Isawtodayseveraleagles,somebeautifulblue-plumagedherons,andagreatvarietyofparakeets.Afewoyster-catchersandgullsweregenerallyaboutthebeach,andinthelakeafewwildducks.

Monday25.

BeinginwantofplankIdirectedasaw-pittobedugandemployedsomeofthepeople to saw trees into plank. The greater part of this week the winds weremoderatewithunsettledweather.

Friday29.

OnFridayitblewstrongfromthesouth-westwithrain,thunder,andlightning.Wecontinuedtocatchfishinsufficientquantitiesforeverybodyandhadbettersuccesswiththeseine.Wewerefortunatealsoinanglinginthelakewherewecaught some very fine tench. Some of the people felt a sickness from eatingmussels thatweregathered from the rocks;but I believe itwasoccasionedbyeatingtoomany.Wefoundsomespider-crabs,mostofthemnotgood,beingthefemalesortandoutofseason.Themalesweretolerablygoodandwereknownbythesmallnessoftheirtwofore-clawsorfeeders.WesawthetrunkofadeadtreeonwhichhadbeencutA.D.1773.Thefigureswereverydistinct;eventheslipsmadewiththeknifewerediscernible.ThismusthavebeendonebysomeofcaptainFurneaux'speopleinMarch1773,fifteenyearsbefore.Themarksofthekniferemainingsounaltered,Iimaginethetreemusthavebeendeadwhenitwas cut; but it serves to show the durability of thewood for it was perfectlysoundatthistime.Ishottwogannets:thesebirdswereofthesamesizeasthoseinEngland;theircolourisabeautifulwhite,withthewingsandtailtippedwithjetblackandthetopandbackoftheheadofaveryfineyellow.Theirfeetwereblackwithfourclaws,oneachofwhichwasayellowlinethewholelengthofthe foot. The bill was four inches long, without nostrils, and very taper andsharp-pointed.

Theeastsideof thebaybeingnotso thickofwoodas theotherparts,and thesoilbeinggood, I fixedon it, atNelson's recommendation,as themostpropersituationforplantingsomeofthefruit-treeswhichIhadbroughtfromtheCapeofGoodHope.Acircumstancemuchagainstanythingsucceedinghereisthatinthedryseasonthefiresmadebythenativesareapttocommunicatetothedriedgrassandunderwood,andtospreadinsuchamannerastoendangereverythingthat cannot bear a severe scorching.We however chose what we thought thesafest situations, and planted three fine young apple-trees, nine vines, sixplantain-trees,anumberoforangeandlemon-seed,cherry-stones,plum,peach,andapricot-stones,pumpkins,alsotwosortsofIndiancorn,andappleandpearkernels.Thegroundiswelladaptedforthetrees,beingofarichloamynature.Thespotwherewemadeourplantationwasclearofunderwood;andwemarkedthe trees that stood nearest to the different thingswhichwere planted.Nelsonfollowedthecircuitofthebay,plantinginsuchplacesasappearedmosteligible.I have great hopes that some of these articles will succeed. The particularsituations I had described inmy survey of this place, but Iwas unfortunatelyprevented frombringing ithome.Near thewateringplace likewiseweplantedon a flat, which appeared a favourable situation, some onions, cabbage-roots,andpotatoes.

Forsomedayspastanumberofwhaleswereseeninthebay.Theywereofthesamekindasthosewehadgenerallymetwithbefore,havingtwoblow-holesonthebackofthehead.

September.Monday1.

Onthenightofthe1stofSeptemberweobservedforthefirsttimesignsofthenativesbeingintheneighbourhood.FireswereseenonthelowlandnearCapeFrederick Henry, and at daylight we saw the natives with our glasses. As Iexpected they would come round to us I remained all the forenoon near thewooding and watering parties, making observations, the morning being veryfavourableforthatpurpose.Iwashoweverdisappointedinmyconjectureforthenativesdidnotappear,andtherewas toogreatasurf foraboat to landon thepartwherewehadseenthem.

Tuesday2.

Thenativesnotcomingnearus,Ideterminedtogoafterthem,andwesetoutinaboattowardsCapeFrederickHenry,wherewearrivedabouteleveno'clock.Ifound landing impracticableand thereforecame toagrapnel, inhopesof theircomingtous,forwehadpassedseveralfires.AfterwaitingnearanhourIwassurprisedtoseeNelson'sassistantcomeoutofthewood:hehadwanderedthusfar in search of plants and toldme that he hadmetwith some of the natives.Soonafterweheardtheirvoiceslikethecacklingofgeese,andtwentypersonscameoutofthewood,twelveofwhomwentroundtosomerockswheretheboatcould get nearer to the shore thanwe thenwere.Thosewho remained behindwerewomen.

We approached within twenty yards of them, but there was no possibility oflandingandIcouldonlythrowtotheshore,tiedupinpaper,thepresentswhichI intended for them. I showed thedifferent articlesas I tied themup,but theywouldnotuntiethepapertillImadeanappearanceofleavingthem.Theythenopenedtheparcelsand,astheytookthearticlesout,placedthemontheirheads.OnseeingthisIreturnedtowardsthemwhentheyinstantlyputeverythingoutoftheirhandsandwouldnotappear to takenoticeofanything thatwehadgiventhem.AfterthrowingafewmorebeadsandnailsonshoreImadesignsforthemtogototheship,andtheylikewisemadesignsformetoland,butasthiscouldnotbeeffectedIleftthem,inhopesofanearerinterviewatthewatering-place.

Whentheyfirstcameinsighttheymadeaprodigiousclatteringintheirspeechandheldtheirarmsovertheirheads.TheyspokesoquickthatIcouldnotcatchonesingleword theyuttered.We recollectedonemanwhomwehad formerlyseen among the party of the natives that came to us in 1777, and who isparticularisedin theaccountofCaptainCook's lastvoyageforhishumouranddeformity.Someofthemhadasmallstick,twoorthreefeetlong,intheirhands,butnootherweapon.

Their colour, as Captain Cook remarks, is a dull black: their skin is scarifiedabouttheirshouldersandbreast.Theywereofamiddlestature,orratherbelowit.Oneofthemwasdistinguishedbyhisbodybeingcolouredwithredochre,butalltheotherswerepaintedblackwithakindofsootwhichwaslaidonsothickovertheirfacesandshouldersthatitisdifficulttosaywhattheywerelike.

They ran very nimbly over the rocks, had a very quick sight, and caught thesmallbeadsandnailswhichIthrewtothemwithgreatdexterity.Theytalkedtous sitting on their heels with their knees close into their armpits and wereperfectlynaked.

InmyreturntowardstheshipIlandedatthepointoftheharbournearPenguinIsland,andfromthehillssawthewaterontheothersideofthelowisthmusofCapeFrederickHenry,which forms thebayof that name. It is very extensiveandin,ornear,themiddleofthebaythereisalowisland.Fromthisspotithastheappearanceofbeingaverygoodandconvenientharbour.

The accountwhich I had fromBrown, the botanist's assistant,was that in hissearch for plants he had met an old man, a young woman, and two or threechildren.Theoldmanat firstappearedalarmed,butbecame familiaronbeingpresentedwithaknife.Heneverthelesssentawaytheyoungwomanwhowentveryreluctantly.Hesawsomemiserablewigwams,inwhichwerenothingbutafewkangarooskinsspreadontheground,andabasketmadeofrushes.

Among the wood that we cut here we foundmany scorpions and centipedes,withnumerousblackantsthatwereaninchlong.Wesawnomosquitoes,thoughinthesummermonthstheyareverytroublesome.

WhatiscalledtheNewZealandteaplantgrewhereingreatabundance;sothatitwasnotonlygatheredanddriedtouseasteabutmadeexcellentbrooms.Itbearsa small pointed leaf of a pleasant smell, and its seed is contained in a berry,

aboutthesizeofapea,notchedintofiveequalpartsonthetop.Thesoilonthewestandsouthsidesofthebayisblackmouldwithamixtureoffinewhitesandandisveryrich.Thetreesareloftyandlarge,andtheunderwoodgrowssoclosetogether that inmanyplacesit is impassable.Theeastsideof thebayisarichloamysoil;butnear the topsof thehills isverymuchencumberedwithstonesandrocks:theunderwoodthinlyplacedandsmall.Thetreesonthesouth,south-east, and south-west sidesof thehillsgrow toa larger size than those that areexposedtotheoppositepoints;forthesidesofthetreesopenorexposedtothenorth winds are naked with few branches; while the other sides are in aflourishing state. From this I do not infer that the equatorial aremore hurtfulthan the polarwinds; but that the trees by their situationweremore shelteredfromtheoneforfromtheother.

Wednesday3.

Acalmpreventedour sailing today.The friendly interviewwhichwehadhadwiththenativesmademeexpectthattheywouldhavepaidusavisit;butwesawnothing more of them except fires in the night upon the low land to thenorthward.

The result of the observationswhich Imade here, reduced to Penguin Island,placeitin43degrees21minutes11secondssouthlatitudeandinlongitude147degrees33minutes29secondseast,whichscarcelydiffersfromtheobservationsmadein1777.Thevariationofthecompassobservedonshorewas8degrees38minuteseast;andonboardtheship8degrees29minuteseast.Itwashigh-waterat thechangeof themoonat49minutespastsix in themorning.Therisewastwo feet eight inches. Southerly winds, if of any continuance, make aconsiderabledifferenceintheheightofthetides.

Thursday4.

This forenoon,havingapleasantbreezeatnorth-west,weweighedanchorandsailedoutofAdventureBay.AtnoonthesouthernmostpartofMaria'sIslesborenorth 52 degrees east, about five leagues distant; Penguin Island south 86degreeswest;andCapeFrederickHenrynorth65degreeswest.Inthispositionwehadsoundingsat57fathoms,asandybottom.Latitudeobserved43degrees22minutessouth.

ThesouthernpartofMaria'sIslandslieinlatitude43degrees16minutessouth.

The country is not in general woody, but in some of the interior parts thereappearedgreatabundance.AmongtheseislandsIhavenodoubtoftherebeingmanyconvenientplacesforshipping.Ontheeastsideinlatitude42degrees42minutessouthandlongitude148degrees24minuteseastinJuly,1789,CaptainCoxoftheMercuryfoundaconvenientandsecureharbourfromallwindswhichhenamedOysterBay.Herehefoundwood,water,andfishingreatabundance.Ithastwooutletsandliesnorth,alittleeasterly,distant34milesfromthesouth-easternmostisland,orpoint,seenfromAdventureBay.

AdventureBayisaconvenientandsafeplaceforanynumberofshipstotakeinwood and water during the summer months: but in the winter, when thesoutherlywindsarestrong,thesurf,onallpartsoftheshore,makesthelandingexceedingly troublesome. The bay of Frederick Henry may perhaps be foundpreferable, as it appears to be equally easy of access. The soundings inAdventureBayareveryregular:nearthewestshorearesomepatchesofweedbutnoshoalordanger,thedepthonthembeingfromfivetoninefathoms.

CHAPTER5.RockyIslandsdiscovered.SeetheIslandMaiteaandarriveatOtaheite.ShipcrowdedbytheNatives.

1788.September.

Being clear of the land we steered towards the east-south-east, it being myintentiontopasstothesouthwardofNewZealand,asIexpectedinthatroutetomeetwith constantwesterlywinds; inwhich however Iwas disappointed, forthey proved variable and frequently from the eastward blowing strong, withthickmistyweather.Thethermometervariedfrom41to46degrees.

Sunday14.

Onthe14thatnoonwewerein49degrees24minutessouthlatitudeandin168degrees3minuteseastlongitude,whichisonthesamemeridianwiththesouthendofNewZealand.Wealteredourcourse, steering to thenorthwardofeast,and frequently saw rock-weed which I supposed to have drifted from NewZealand.Theseanowbecamerougherfromourbeingexposedtoa longswellwhichcamefromthenorth-east.

Friday19.

On the19thatdaylightwediscoveredaclusterof small rocky islandsbearingeastbynorthfourleaguesdistantfromus.Wehadseennobirdsoranythingtoindicatethenearnessoflandexceptpatchesofrock-weed,forwhichthevicinityofNewZealandsufficientlyaccounted.Thewindbeingatnorth-eastpreventedour near approach to these isles; so that we were not less than three leaguesdistant inpassing to the southwardof them.Theweatherwas too thick to seedistinctly: theirextentwasonly31/2milesfromeast towestandabouthalfaleaguefromnorthtosouth:theirnumberincludingthesmalleroneswasthirteen.I could not observe any verdure on any of them: there were white spots likepatchesofsnowbut,asCaptainCook, indescribing the landofNewZealand,nearCapeSouth,says,inmanyplacestherearepatcheslikewhitemarble,itisprobablethatwhatwesawmightbeofthesamekindaswhathehadobserved.

Thewesternmostoftheseislandsisthelargest;theyareofsufficientheighttobeseenatthedistanceofsevenleaguesfromaship'sdeck.WhentheeasternmostborenorthItriedforsoundings,beingthen10milesdistantfromthenearestofthem, and found bottom at 75 fathoms, a finewhite sand: and again at noon,having run six leagues more to the east-south-east, we had soundings at 104fathoms, a fine brimstone-coloured sand. The latitude of these islands is 47degrees44minutessouth; their longitude179degrees7minuteseast,whichisabout145leaguestotheeastoftheTraps,nearthesouthendofNewZealand.Variationofthecompasshere17degreeseast.Whileinsightoftheislandswesawsomepenguins,andawhitekindofgullwithaforkedtail.CaptainCook'strackin1773wasnearthisspot,buthedidnotseetheislands:hesawsealsandpenguinshereabouts,butconsideredNewZealandtobethenearestland.IhavenamedthemaftertheshiptheBountyIsles.

Sunday21.

Thisdaywesawaseal,somerock-weed,andagreatmanyalbatrosses. I triedforsoundingsbutfoundnobottomat230fathomsdepth.Ourlatitude47degrees32minutessouth,longitude182degrees36minuteseast.

October.Thursday2.

Were in 40 degrees 27minutes south latitude and 214 degrees 4minutes eastlongitude.Itbeingcalm,andanumberofsmallblubbersabouttheship,Itookup some in a bucket, but I saw no difference between them and the commonblubbersintheWestIndies.Wefrequentlyinthenight-timeobservedtheseatobe covered with luminous spots caused by prodigious quantities of smallblubbers that, from the strings which extend from them, emit a light like theblazeofacandle,whilethebodycontinuesperfectlydark.

Friday3.

The 3rd in the morning we saw a seal. Captain Cook has remarked seeingseaweed when nearly in the same place. Our latitude 40 degrees 21 minutessouth, longitude 215 degrees east. Variation of the compass 7 degrees 45minutes east. Being nowwell to the eastward of the Society Islands I steeredmoretothenorthward.

We continued to have the southern oceanic birds accompany us and a fewwhales. The people caught albatrosses and fattened them in the samemanner

which theyhaddonewhenoffCapeHorn.Someof thesemeasuredneareightfeetbetweenthetipsofthewingswhenspread.

Thursday9.

OnThursday the9thwehad themisfortune to loseoneofour seamen, JamesValentine,whodiedinthenightofanasthmaticcomplaint.ThispoormanhadbeenoneofthemostrobustpeopleonboarduntilourarrivalatAdventureBay,wherehe first complainedof some slight indisposition forwhichhewasbled,andgotbetter.Sometimeafterwardsthearminwhichhehadbeenbledbecamepainful and inflamed: the inflammation increased, with a hollow cough, andextremedifficultyofbreathing,tohisdeath.

Monday13.

The13thintheafternoonwesawtwolandbirdslikewhatarecalledsand-larks.Our latitude at this time was 28 degrees 3 minutes south and longitude 223degrees26minuteseast.

Tuesday14.

Thenextmorningwesawatropicbirdandsomefish.Thewindswerelightandvariablewithcalmsfromthistimetothe19th,whenabreezesprangupfromthenorth-east, which gradually came round to the eastward and proved to be thetradewind.Our latitudeon the19th atnoonwas24degrees13minutes south,longitude222degrees17minuteseast.Variationof thecompass5degrees19minuteseast.

Saturday25.

Onthe25thathalf-pastseveninthemorningwesawtheIslandMaitea,calledOsnaburgbyCaptainWallis,whofirstdiscoveredit.Atnoonitboresouth-westbywestone-quarterwest,sixmilesdistant.Ourlatitude17degrees50minutessouth, longitude 212 degrees 24minutes east. Variation five degrees east. AsCaptainWallis and Captain Cook had both passed near the south side, I ranalongthenorthside,whichisremarkablysteep.Theislandishighandroundandnot more than three miles in its greatest extent. The south side, where thedeclivity from the hill is more gradual, is the chief place of residence of thenatives;butthenorthside,fromtheverysummitdowntothesea,issosteepthatit can afford no support to the inhabitants. We steered pretty close in to the

northwardoftheeastend,wherewesawbutfewhabitations:averyneathouseon a small eminence, delightfully situated in a grove of coconut-trees,particularlyattractedournotice.Abouttwentyofthenativesfollowedusalongshore,wavingandshowinglargepiecesofcloth;butthesurfontheshorewastoo high to think of having any communicationwith them. I observed a greatnumberofcoconut-treesbutdidnotseeoneplantain-tree.Therewereothertreesbutofwhatkindwecouldnotdistinguish:neartheeastendaretworemarkablerocks,andareefrunsofftotheeastwardabouthalfaleague.

ThelatitudeofMaiteais17degrees53minutessouth;andbyourtimekeeperitslongitude is 1 degree 24 minutes east from Point Venus. Variation of thecompass5degrees36minuteseast.

Wecontinuedourcoursetothewestward,andatsixintheeveningsawOtaheitebearingwest three-quarterssouth; the islandMaitea, then insight,bearingeasthalf south,eight leaguesdistant.As therewasgreatprobability thatweshouldremain a considerable time at Otaheite, it could not be expected that theintercourseofmypeoplewiththenativesshouldbeofaveryreservednature:Ithereforeorderedthateverypersonshouldbeexaminedbythesurgeon,andhadthesatisfactiontolearnfromhisreportthattheywereallperfectlyfreefromanyvenerealcomplaint.

Sunday26.

Onthe26thatfouro'clockinthemorning,havingruntwenty-fiveleaguesfromMaitea,we brought to till daylight,whenwe sawPointVenus bearing south-west bywest, distant about four leagues.Aswe drew near a great number ofcanoescameofftous.Theirfirstenquirieswereifweweretyos,whichsignifiesfriends;andwhetherwecamefromPretanie(theirpronunciationofBritain)orfromLima:theywerenosoonersatisfiedinthisthantheycrowdedonboardinvastnumbers,notwithstandingourendeavourstopreventit,aswewereworkingtheshipin;andinlessthantenminutesthedeckwassofullthatIcouldscarcefindmyownpeople.AtnineintheforenoonwewereobligedtoanchorintheouterpartofMatavaiBay,inthirteenfathoms,beingpreventedbylightvariablewinds fromplacing the ship in a proper berth. In this station thewest part ofOne-treehillboresouthbyeasthalfeastonemiledistant.

This passage of fifty-two days from Van Diemen's Land may be rated asmoderate sailing. We passed New Zealand with the spring equinox and the

winds,thoughstrong,wereatnotimeviolent.Tothesouthwardof40degrees0minutes south theywere variable; between the latitudes of 40 and 33 degreessouth the wind kept in the north-west quarter; afterwards till we got into thetradethewindswerevariable,mostlyfromtheeastward,butlightandinclinabletocalms.Theshipwas3degrees22minutesinlongitudetotheeastwardofthedeadreckoning,whichthetimekeeperalmostinvariablyprovedtobeowingtoacurrentgivingusmoreeasting than the log.Our trackwasasdistant fromanycourseofformershipsasIcouldconvenientlymakeitand,thoughwemadenonew discoveries, except the small cluster of islands nearNewZealand, yet inotherpartsofthetrack,ashasbeennoticed,wemetwithsignsofbeingintheneighbourhoodofland.

Itmaynotbeunworthyofremarkthatthewholedistancewhichtheshiphadrunbythelog,indirectandcontrarycourses,fromleavingEnglandtoouranchoringat Otaheite, was twenty-seven thousand and eighty-six miles which, on anaverage,isattherateofahundredandeightmileseachtwenty-fourhours.

CHAPTER6.AccountofanEnglishShiplatelysailedfromOtaheite.DeathofOmai.CaptainCook'sPicturesentonboard.OtoovisitstheShip.HisVisitreturned.Nativeswelldisposedtowardsus.AccountoftheCattleleftbyCaptainCook.Breadfruitplantspromised.VisittotheEareeRahie.PresentsmadetotheArreoys.

1788.October.Sunday26.

Theshipbeinganchored,ournumberofvisitorscontinuedtoincrease;butasyetwe sawnoperson thatwecould recollect tohavebeenofmuchconsequence.SomeinferiorchiefsmademepresentsofafewhogsandImadethempresentsinreturn.Weweresuppliedwithcoconutsingreatabundancebutbreadfruitwasscarce.

ManyenquiriesweremadeafterCaptainCook,SirJosephBanks,andmanyoftheirformerfriends.Theysaidashiphadbeenherefromwhichtheyhadlearntthat Captain Cook was dead; but the circumstances of his death they did notappeartobeacquaintedwith;andIhadgivenparticulardirectionstomyofficersandship'scompanythattheyshouldnotbementioned.Theshipspokenof,theyinformedme,stayedatOtaheiteonemonthandhadbeengonefourmonths,bysomeoftheiraccounts;accordingtoothersonlythreemonths.ThecaptaintheycalledTonah.IunderstoodlikewisefromthemthatLieutenantWattswasintheship who, having been here in the Resolution with Captain Cook, was wellknown to them.One ofmy first enquiries, aswill naturally be imagined,wasafterourfriendOmai;anditwasasensiblemortificationanddisappointmenttometohearthatnotonlyOmai,butboththeNewZealandboyswhohadbeenleftwith him, were dead. Everyone agreed in their information that they died anaturaldeath.Otoo,whowasthechiefofMatavaiwhenCaptainCookwasherethelasttime,wasabsentatanotherpartoftheisland;theytoldmemessengersweresenttoinformhimofourarrival,andthathewasexpectedtoreturnsoon.Thereappearedamongthenativesingeneralgreatgoodwilltowardsus,andthey

seemed tobemuch rejoicedatour arrival.Thiswholedayweexperiencednoinstanceofdishonesty.WeweresomuchcrowdedthatIcouldnotundertaketoremove to amore proper stationwithout danger of disobliging our visitors bydesiringthemtoleavetheship:thisbusinesswasthereforedeferredtillthenextmorning.

Monday27.

Early in themorning, before thenativesbegan to flockoff to us,weweighedanchor towork farther into the bay, andmoored at about a quarter of amiledistancefromtheshore;PointVenusbearingnorth16degreeseast;thewestpartofOne-treehillsouth-westbysouth;andthepointofthereefnorth37degreeswest;theshiplyinginsevenfathomswater.

Several chiefs nowcameonboard and expressed great pleasure at seeingme.Among thesewereOtow, the father of Otoo, andOreepyah, his brother; alsoanotherchiefofMatavaicalledPoeeno:andtothesemenImadepresents.TwomessengerslikewisearrivedfromOtootoacquaintmeofhisbeingonhiswaytothe ship; eachofwhombroughtme as a present fromOtoo a small pig and ayoung plantain-tree as a token of friendship. The ship was now plentifullysuppliedwithprovisions;everypersonhavingasmuchashecouldconsume.

As soon as the shipwas secured I went on shorewith the chief Poeeno, andaccompaniedbyamultitudeofthenatives.Heconductedmetotheplacewherewehadfixedourtentsin1777anddesiredthatIwouldnowappropriatethespottothesameuse.Wethenwentacrossthebeachandthroughawalkdelightfullyshadedwith breadfruit trees to his own house. Herewe found twowomen atworkstainingapieceofcloth red.These I foundwerehiswifeandher sister.Theydesiredme to sit downon amatwhichwas spread for thepurpose, andwith great kindness offeredme refreshments. I received the congratulations ofseveralstrangerswhocametousandbehavedwithgreatdecorumandattention.ThepeoplehoweverthrongedaboutthehouseinsuchnumbersthatIwasmuchincommoded by the heat, which being observed they immediately drew back.AmongthecrowdIsawamanwhohadlosthisarmjustabovetheelbow;thestumpwaswell covered and the cure seemed as perfect as could be expectedfromthegreatestprofessionalskill.

ImadeenquiriesaboutthecattlethathadbeenleftherebyCaptainCook,buttheaccountsIreceivedwereveryunfavourableandsovariousthatforthepresentI

shall forebear speaking of them.After staying about an hour I got up to takeleave,whenthewomeninaveryobligingmannercametomewithamatandapieceoftheirfinestcloth,whichtheyputonmeaftertheOtaheitefashion.WhenIwas thusdressed theyeachof themtookoneofmyhands,andaccompaniedme to thewaterside, and at parting promised that theywould soon returnmyvisit.

InthiswalkIhadthesatisfactiontoseethattheislandhadreceivedsomebenefitfromourformervisits.Twoshaddockswerebrought tome,a fruitwhich theyhadnot,tillweintroducedit.Andamongthearticleswhichtheybroughtofftotheshipandofferedforsalewerecapsicums,pumpkins,andtwoyounggoats.

OnmyreturntotheshipIfoundthatasmalldisturbancehadbeenoccasionedbyoneofthenativesmakinganattempttostealatinpot;which,onbeingknowntoOreepyah,he flew intoaviolent rage,and itwaswithsomedifficulty that thethief escaped with his life. He drove all his countrymen out of the ship; andwhenhesawmehedesiredifatanytimeIfoundathiefthatIwouldorderhimtobetiedupandpunishedwithasevereflogging.

ThisforenoonamancameonboardwithCaptainCook'spicturewhichhadbeendrawnbyMr.Webber in1777and leftwithOtoo. Itwasbrought tome toberepaired.Theframewasbrokenbutthepicturenowaydamagedexceptalittleinthe background.They called itToote (which has always been theirmanner ofpronouncingCaptainCook'sname)EareenoOtaheite, chiefofOtaheite.Theysaid Toote had desired Otoo, whenever any English ship came, to show thepicture, and itwouldbe acknowledged as a tokenof friendship.Theyoungestbrother of Otoo, named Whydooah, visited me this afternoon: he appearedstupefiedwithdrinkingava.Atsunsetallourmalevisitorslefttheship.

Tuesday28.

The nextmorning early I received amessage fromOtoo to informme of hisarrivalandrequestingthatIwouldsendaboatforhim;whichIimmediatelydidwithanofficer(Mr.Christian)toconducthimonboard.Hecamewithnumerousattendantsandexpressedmuchsatisfactionatourmeeting.Afterintroducinghiswifetomewejoinednoses,thecustomarymannerofsaluting,andtoperpetuateourfriendshiphedesiredweshouldexchangenames.IwassurprisedtofindthatinsteadofOtoo,thenamebywhichheformerlywent,hewasnowcalledTinah.ThenameofOtoo,withthetitleofEareeRahie,Iwasinformedhaddevolvedto

hiseldestsonwhowasyetaminor,asisthecustomofthecountry.ThenameofTinah'swifewasIddeah:withherwasawomandressedwithalargequantityofcloth in the form of a hoop,whichwas taken off and presented tomewith alargehogandsomebreadfruit.Ithentookmyvisitorsintothecabinandafterashort time produced my presents in return. The present I made to Tinah (bywhichnameIshallhereaftercallhim)consistedofhatchets,smalladzes,files,gimblets, saws, looking-glasses, red feathers, and two shirts.To Iddeah Igaveearrings, necklaces, and beads; but she expressed a desire also for iron, andtherefore Imade the same assortment for her as I had for the husband.Muchconversation took place among themon the value of the different articles andtheyappearedextremelysatisfied,sothattheydeterminedtospendthedaywithmeandrequestedIwouldshowthemallovertheship,andparticularlythecabinwhereIslept.ThisthoughIwasnotfondofdoingIindulgedthemin;andtheconsequencewasasIhadapprehendedthattheytookafancytosomanythingsthat they got from me nearly as much more as I had before given them.Afterwards Tinah desired me to fire some of the great guns: this I likewisecompliedwithand,astheshotfellintotheseaatagreatdistance,allthenativesexpressedtheirsurprisebyloudshoutsandacclamations.

Ihadalargecompanyatdinner;forbesidesTinahandhiswifetherewasOtow,thefatherofTinah,Oreepyah,andWhydooah,twoofhisbrothers,Poeeno,andseveralotherchiefs.Tinahisaverylargeman,muchabovethecommonstature,beingnot less than six feet four inches inheight andproportionably stout: hisageaboutthirty-five.Hiswife(Iddeah)Ijudgedtobeabouttwenty-fouryearsofage:sheislikewisemuchabovethecommonsizeofthewomenatOtaheiteandhasaveryanimatedandintelligentcountenance.Whydooah,theyoungerbrotherofTinah,washighlyspokenofasawarriorbuthad thecharacterofbeing thegreatest drunkard in the country; and indeed to judge from the witheredappearanceofhisskinhemusthaveusedtheperniciousdrinkcalledavatogreatexcess.Tinahwasfedbyoneofhisattendantswhosatbyhimforthatpurpose,thisbeingaparticularcustomamongsomeofthesuperiorchiefs;andImustdohim the justice to say he kept his attendant constantly employed: there wasindeedlittlereasontocomplainofwantofappetiteinanyofmyguests.AsthewomenarenotallowedtoeatinpresenceofthemenIddeahdinedwithsomeofher companions about an hour afterwards in private, except that her husbandTinah favoured themwith his company and seemed to have entirely forgottenthathehadalreadydined.

Provisionswerebroughtofftotheshipinthegreatestplentyand,topreventas

much as possible anything which might occasion disputes, I desired Mr.Peckover, the gunner, to undertake the management of our traffic with thenatives.Someofthehogsbroughttodayweighed200poundsandwepurchasedseveralforsalting.Goatswerelikewisebroughtoffforsale,andIboughtashe-goatandkidfor less thanwouldhavepurchasedasmallhog.Ourfriendshereexpressed much disappointment that there was no portrait-painter on board;Tinahinparticular,whowishedtohavehadpicturesofhisfatherandfamily.

An intimacy between the natives and our people was already so general thatthere was scarce a man in the ship who had not his tyo or friend. Tinahcontinuedwithmethewholeafternoon,inthecourseofwhichheatefourtimesofroastporkbesideshisdinner.WhenhelefttheshipherequestedIwouldkeepfor him all the presents I had given to him as he had not atMatavai a placesufficiently safe to secure them from being stolen; I therefore showed him alockerinmycabinforhisuseandgavehimakeytoit.Thisisperhapsnotsomuch a proof of his want of power as of the estimation in which they holdEuropean commodities and which makes more than the common means ofsecurityrequisitetopreventtheft.

I had sent Nelson and his assistant to look for plants, and it was no smallpleasuretometofindbytheirreportthataccordingtoappearancestheobjectofmymissionwouldprobablybeaccomplishedwithease.Ihadgivendirectionstoeveryoneonboardnottomakeknowntotheislandersthepurposeofourcominglest it might enhance the value of the breadfruit plants, or occasion otherdifficulties.PerhapssomuchcautionwasnotnecessarybutatalleventsIwishedto reserve tomyself the time andmanner of communication.Nelsonmetwithtwofineshaddock-treeswhichhehadplantedin1777:theywerefulloffruitbutnotripe.

Wednesday29.

In themorning I returnedTinah'svisit for I foundheexpected it.Hewas inasmall shedaboutaquarterofamile to theeastwardofMatavaipointwithhiswifeand threechildren,not theirownbutwhotheysaidwererelations. InmywalkIhadpickedupanumerousattendanceforeveryoneImetfollowedme;sothat I had collected such a crowd that the heatwas scarce bearable, everyoneendeavouring to get a look to satisfy their curiosity: they however carefullyavoidedpressingagainstme,andwelcomedmewithcheerfulcountenancesandgreatgoodnature.

ImadeTinahunderstandthatmyvisitwasparticularlytohim,andgavehimasecondpresent,equaltothefirst,whichhereceivedwithgreatpleasure;andtothepeopleofconsequencethatwereabouthimIalsopresentedsomearticleorother. Therewere great numbers of children and, as I took notice of the littleones that were in arms and gave them beads, both small and great, but withmuchdrolleryandgoodhumour,endeavouredtobenefitbytheoccasion.Boysof tenand twelveyearsoldwerecaughtup inarmsandbrought tome,whichcreatedmuch laughter; so that inashort timeIgot ridofall Ihadbroughtonshore.

Inmy return I calledonPoeeno, andan elderly chief, a relationofhis, calledMoannah, the principal men of this district and with whom I judged it myinterest to be on good terms. I gave them several valuable articles and, as thesituationherewaseligibleforagarden, Iplantedmelon,cucumber,andsalad-seeds. I told themmany other things should be sown for their use; and theyappearedmuchpleasedwhentheyunderstoodIintendedtoplantsuchthingsaswouldgrowtobetreesandproducefruit.Isawlargepatchesoftobaccogrowingwithoutcultureandmanypumpkinvines.Thebreadfruittreesandcoconuttreesatthistimewerefulloffruit.

I went on board to dinner andMoannah accompaniedme. In the afternoon Ireturned to Poeeno'swith some additional seeds to improve the little garden Ihadbeguntomakein theforenoon.WhileIwasgivingdirectionsI receivedamessagefromTinahinvitingmetocometohimathisbrotherOreepyah'shouse,which was near the beach. At this place I found a great number of peoplecollectedwho,onmyappearance,immediatelymadewayformetositdownbyTinah.Thecrowdbeingorderedtodrawback,apieceofclothabouttwoyardswideandforty-oneyardsinlengthwasspreadontheground;andanotherpieceofclothwasbroughtbyOreepyah,whichheputovermyshouldersandroundmywaist in themanner thechiefsareclothed.Two largehogs,weighingeachabove two hundred pounds, and a quantity of baked breadfruit and coconutswerethenlaidbeforemeasapresent,andIwasdesiredtowalkfromoneendofthe cloth spread on the ground to the other, in the course of which Tyo andEhoah* were repeated with loud acclamations. This ceremony being endedTinah desired Iwould send the things on board,which completely loaded theboat;wethereforewaitedtillshecamebackandthenItookthemonboardwithme; for I knew they expected some return. The presentwhich Imade on thisoccasionwasequal toany that Ihadmadebefore;but Idiscovered thatTinahwasnotthesoleproprietorofwhathehadgiventomeforthepresentIgavewas

divided among those who, I guessed, had contributed to support his dignity;amongwhomwereMoannah,Poeenah,andOreepyah;Tinahhoweverkeptthegreatest part of what I had given and everyone seemed satisfied with theproportionheallottedthem.

(*Footnote.TyoandEhoaharewordsofthesamesignification,i.e.friend.)

TheOtaheitebreedofhogsseemstobesupplantedbytheEuropean.OriginallytheywereoftheChinasort,shortandverythick-necked;butthesuperiorsizeoftheEuropeanhavemadethemencourageourbreed.

Thursday30.

At break of day Tinah and his wife came again to the ship and, as theirattendantswerenumerous,Iprovidedabreakfastforthemofbroiledandroastedpork,which theypreferred to tea.Ourarrivalbeingknownallover the island,wehadthisdayagreatnumberofstrangersonboardwhocamefromthemostremoteparts, and in the forenoonsomehooksand thimbleswerecutout fromtheblocks.This inducedme toorder all thenativesoutof the shipexcept thechiefsandtheirattendants.Inexecutingtheseordersadaringfellowattackedthesentinel but escaped among the crowd. Everyone knew the consequence ofoffendingthesentinelandwereexceedinglyalarmedattheappearanceofangerIthoughtnecessarytoassume.

Among those who visited us today were two chiefs of great consequence,MarremarreandhissonPoohaitaiahOtee,EareesofthedistrictsofItteeahandAttahooroo.OteewasfedatdinnerinthesamemannerasTinah.Itwasevidentthat theattentionwhich I showed to thesechiefs seemed togiveuneasiness toTinah.Atsunsetmyvisitorstookleaveandwerecarriedonshorebyoneoftheship's boats,whichhas alwaysbeen regarded as amarkof distinction, andonthataccountpreferredbythemtogoingintheirowncanoes.Attheirrequestaracewas rowed between our five-oared cutter and one of their double canoeswith four paddles.Great exertionswere used on both sides but the cutter firstreachedtheshore.IntheirreturntotheshipOreepyahstoppedthemtillalargepieceofcloththathehadsentforwasbrought;whichhetiedtotheboat-hookanddesiredshouldbecarriedoffasatrophyoftheirvictory.

Friday31.

The next morning at sunrise Moannah came on board with a message from

Tinahtoacquaintmethathewasmattow(afraidtoseeme)tillhehadrecoveredsome things that hadbeen stolen from the ship andwhichhehad sent after. Iknewtherewassomethingwrong,asnocanoescameofftousand,onlookingabout, we found the buoy of the best bower anchor had been taken away, Iimagine for the sake of some iron hoops thatwere on it. That thismight notcreateanycoolnessIsentaboattoTinahtoinvitehimandhisfriendstocomeon board; which they immediately did and were no longer under anyapprehensions.IhadmadeanappointmentwithOreepyahforhimtogowithmetoOparrethismorning;buttheaccidentjustmentionedcausedhimtobreakhisengagement,hehavinggone,Iwasinformed,insearchofwhathadbeenstolen.

Oparre is thedistrict next to thewestwardofMatavai.Oneofmy reasons forgoingtoOparrewastoseeifNelsonwouldbeabletoprocureplantsthere;butIgavethecreditofmyvisittoyoungOtoo,thesonofTinah,whowastheEareeRahie, and lived with the rest of Tinah's children at Oparre. I prepared amagnificentpresentforthisyouth,whowasrepresentedtomeasthepersonofthegreatestconsequence,orratherofthehighestrank,intheisland.AtnoonIlefttheship,accompaniedbyTinah,hiswifeIddeah,andPoeeno.Moannahwastohavebeenofthepartybutheinsistedonremainingintheshiptopreventhiscountrymenfromattemptingtostealanything.

Afterhalfanhour'ssailingwearrivedatOparre.DuringthistimeTinahgavemeamorecircumstantialaccountofthecattleandsheepthathadbeenleftwithhim:he related that, after five years from the time of Captain Cook's departure(counting 63 moons) the people of the Island Eimeo joined with those ofAttahooroo,adistrictofOtaheite,andmadeadescentonOparre:thataftersomeresistance by which many men were killed Tinah and his people fled to themountains, leaving all their property to themercy of the victorious partywhodestroyedalmosteverythingwhichtheyfoundnotconvenienttotakeawaywiththem.SomeofthecattlewerekilledandeatenbutthegreaterpartweretakentoEimeo. The cows he said had produced eight calves and the ewes ten youngones.Theducks,amongwhichtheyclassedthegeese,hadgreatlyincreased;butthe turkeys and peacocks,whateverwas the cause, had not bred. It seemed togive Tinah great pleasure to observe how much I was concerned for thedestructionofsomanyusefulanimals;butthecauseofhissatisfaction,Ifound,didnotproceed fromanyexpectation that I should replace them,but from thebeliefthatIwouldtakevengeanceonthepeoplewhohaddeprivedhimofthem;for with respect to the loss of the cattle he appeared so unconcerned andindifferent that Iwasveryangrywithhim.There ishowever sufficientexcuse

for his resentment against thepeopleofEimeo; for the large extensivehouseswhichwehadseeninthispartofOtaheiteintheyear1777werealldestroyed,and at present they had no other habitations than light sheds whichmight betaken by the four corners and removed by four men: and of the many largecanoeswhichtheythenhadnotmorethanthreeremained.Tinah,understandingfrommyconversation that I intendedvisitingsomeof theother islands in thisneighbourhood, very earnestly desired I would not think of leaving Matavai."Here,"saidhe,"youshallbesuppliedplentifullywitheverythingyouwant.AllhereareyourfriendsandfriendsofKingGeorge:ifyougototheotherislandsyouwill have everything stolen from you." I replied that, on account of theirgoodwillandfromadesiretoservehimandhiscountry,KingGeorgehadsentoutthosevaluablepresentstohim;"andwillnotyou,Tinah,sendsomethingtoKingGeorgeinreturn?""Yes,"hesaid,"IwillsendhimanythingIhave;"andthen began to enumerate the different articles in his power, among which hementionedthebreadfruit.ThiswastheexactpointtowhichIwishedtobringtheconversationand, seizinganopportunitywhichhadeveryappearanceofbeingundesigned and accidental, I told him the breadfruit trees were what KingGeorgewouldlike;uponwhichhepromisedmeagreatmanyshouldbeputonboard, and seemed much delighted to find it so easily in his power to sendanythingthatwouldbewellreceivedbyKingGeorge.

On landing at Oparre an immense crowd of natives as usual immediatelythrongedaboutus. I enquired forOreepyah,whomIexpected tohavemetmehere,buthewasnotyetreturnedfromhissearchafterthethieves;wethereforewentunderashedofhis towait forhim,and inaboutaquarterofanhourhejoinedus,bringingwithhimanironscraperandoneofthehoopsofthebuoy.Ithanked him for the trouble which he had taken, and assured him that I wasperfectlysatisfied,forhestillseemedapprehensiveofmydispleasure.

WetookleaveforashorttimeofOreepyahandIproceededwithTinahtomakemyvisit to theyoungOtoo, theEareeRahie.Whenwehadwalkedabout fiveminutesTinahstoppedandinformedmethatnopersoncouldbepermittedtoseehis son, who was covered above the shoulders. He then took off his uppergarmentsandrequestedIwoulddothesame.IrepliedthatIhadnoobjectiontogoasIwouldtomyownking,whowasthegreatestinalltheworldand,pullingoffmyhat,hethrewapieceofclothroundmyshouldersandwewenton.Abouta quarter of a mile farther towards the hills, through a delightful shade ofbreadfruittrees,westoppedatthesideofasmallserpentineriver:hereIwasinviewofahouseontheothersideataboutfiftyyardsdistance.Fromthishouse

theyoungkingwasbroughtoutonaman'sshoulders,clothedinapieceoffinewhitecloth,andIwasdesiredbyTinahtosalutehimbythenameofTooEareeRahie.ThepresentwhichIhadpreparedwasdivided into threeparts,and twoother childrenmade their appearance in the samemanner. The first present Igave to a messenger who attended for that purpose; and I was instructed byTinah tosay that itwasfor theEareeRahie; that Iwashis friend; that Ihatedthieves;andthatIcamefromBritannia.Thesecondpresentwassentinthesamemanner,with a similarmessage, to one of the other children and likewise thethird.

AsIcouldnotseetheEareeRahiedistinctlyIdesiredtobepermittedtogoovertheriver tohim;but this, it seems,couldnotbecompliedwith: thereforeafterseeingthepresentsdeliveredIreturnedwithTinahtowardsOreepyah'shouse.IwasinformedthatTinahhadfourchildrenbyhiswifeIddeah.Otoo,orToo,theEaree Rahie, appeared to be about six years old: the second is a girl namedTerrenahOroah:thethirdaboy,Terreetappanooai;andafourth,aninfantgirl,whomIdidnotsee,namedTahamydooah.

Whenwe came to the placewherewe had first stopped Tinah took the clothfrommyshouldersanddesiredmetoputmyhaton;Iexpressedadesiretoseemoreoftheplaceandhetookmebackbyadifferentway.Onpassingatrunkofatree,rudelycarved,Iwasdesiredagaintopullmyhatoff,andalluncoveredtheirshoulders.This Idiscovered tobenothingmore than theboundaryof theking'sland;onwhichwhoeversettheirfeetuncoveredthemselvesoutofrespect.

WestoppedatahousebelongingtoTinahwhereIwastreatedwithaconcertofonedrumandthreefluteswithsingingbyfourmen.Imadesomepresentstotheperformers and we removed to Oreepyah's house where, after paying mycomplimentstohim,whichIfoundwasexpected,Tinahmademeapresentofalarge hog and some coconuts. He then introduced an uncle of his calledMowworoah, a very oldmanmuch tattooed and almost blind. To this chief Imade a present and soon after I embarkedwithTinah,Oreepyah, theirwives,and Poeeno. A vast number of people were collected on the beach to see usdepartandassoonas theboathadputoffTinahdesiredme to firemypocketpistol, the poopooe ete ete, as he called it: the report seemed to electrify thewholecrowdbut,findingnoharmdone,theygavegreatshoutsofapprobation.

Nelson, who accompaniedme in this expedition, had but little opportunity tosearch after plants, the natives having crowded so much about him: he saw

enoughhowevertoassurehimthattheyweretobeprocuredhereasplentifullyasatMatavai.

Inourpassage to theship,whichwerowedinonehour,nothingbutBritanniewasenquiredafterandof thenumberofshipsandguns.WhenI told themwehadshipsof100gunstheycouldnotbelieveittillIdrewoneonpaper:theythenaskedme if it was not as big as Tarrah, which is a high projecting headlandhalfwaybetweenMatavai andOparre, calledbyusOne-treeHill.Tinahmuchwishedthatoneoftheselargeshipsshouldbesent toOtaheiteandthatmyselfshouldcome inher, andbringhimanumberof things thathewanted; amongwhichheparticularlydesiredbedsandhigh-backedelbowchairsmightnotbeforgotten:arequestperfectlyaccordingwiththeindolentcharacterofTinah.

November.Saturday1.

AswehadoccasiontofixatentonPointVenusthismorningwemovedtheshipnearertoitandmooredagaininsixfathoms,thepointbearingnorth-north-east.

Tinahandseveralotherchiefsdinedonboardwithme.AfterdinnerIwentonshorewith Tinah andmade a visit to his father Otow. I likewisewent to thegardenwhich I hadmadenearPoeeno'shouse and foundeverythinghadbeentakencareof.After this Iwas invited toanentertainmentcalledHeiva,whichTinahhadorderedandwhichconsistedofsinginganddancingbythreemenandayounggirl.WhenthisperformancewasfinishedIreturnedtotheship.

Sunday2.

At daylight I sentMr. Christian with a party to erect our tent and soon afterfollowedmyselfwithTinah,Moannah,andPoeeno.WiththeirconsentIfixedaboundary, within which the natives were not to enter without leave and thechiefscautionedthemagainstit.

Theprincipaluseofthetentsonshorewasforalodgmentfortheplants;andIhadnow,insteadofappearingtoreceiveafavour,broughtthechiefstobelievethatIwasdoingthemakindnessincarryingtheplantsasapresentfromthemtothe Earee Rahie no Britanee. The party at the tent consisted of nine persons,includingNelsonandhisassistant.

Tinahdinedwithmeonboardandwastodaymyonlyvisitor:neverthelesstheceremony of being fed he so scrupulously observed that, even after all the

attendantsweresentawayandwewereleftbyourselves,Iwasobligedtoliftthewine to his mouth. The wives of the Earees are sometimes subject to thisrestriction after the birth of a child but are released after a certain time onperformingaceremonycalledOammo.

AfterdinnerTinahinvitedmetoaccompanyhimwithapresentofprovisionstoapartyoftheArreoys,asocietydescribedintheaccountsoftheformervoyages:inthisceremonyhemademetheprincipalperson.OurwaytotheplacewheretheofferingwastobemadewasbythesideofariveralongthebanksofwhichIhad alwayswalked before this time; but on the present occasion a canoewasprovided formeanddraggedby eightmen.Onarriving at the landing-place Isawalargequantityofbreadfruitwithsomehogsreadydressedandaquantityof cloth. At about forty yards distant sat a man who, I was informed, was aprincipalArreoy.AlanebeingmadebythecrowdhewasaddressedbyoneofTinah'speople,standingonthecanoe,inaspeechcomposedofshortsentenceswhich lasted about a quarter of an hour. During this a piece of cloth wasproduced, one end of which I was desired to hold, and fivemen, onewith asuckingpigandtheothershavingeachabasketofbreadfruit,preparedtofollowme. In this orderwe advanced to theArreoy and laid thewhole down beforehim. I then spoke several sentences dictated to me by Tinah, themeaning ofwhichIdidnotunderstandand,mypronunciationnotbeingveryexact,causedagreatdealofmirth.ThisspeechbeingfinishedIwasshownanotherArreoy,whohadcomefromUlietea,andtohimlikewiseIwasrequiredtodeliveranoration.TinahunderstandingfrommethatIhadchildreninmyowncountryhedesiredme to make one more offering on their account. There still remained threebasketsofbreadfruit,asmallpig,andanotherpieceofcloth:withthese,assistedasbefore,ImadetheofferinginfavourofmychildrentothemanwhomIhadfirst addressed. He made no reply to all my fine speeches but sat with greatgravityandreceivedeverythingasamatterofrightandnotofcourtesy.

All that I could make out of this strange ceremony was that the Arreoys arehighlyrespectedandthat thesociety ischieflycomposedofmendistinguishedby their valour or some other merit, and that great trust and confidence isreposed in them; but I could not comprehend what this had to do with mychildrenorwhyitshouldbeimaginedthatanofferingmadeontheiraccounttoasocietyofmenwhodestroyalltheirchildrenshouldbepropitious.IlearntfromTinah,intalkingabouthischildren,thathisfirst-bornchildwaskilledassoonasitcameintotheworld,hebeingthenanArreoy;butbeforehissecondchildwasborn he quitted the society. The Arreoys are allowed great latitude in their

amoursexceptintimesofdanger.Thenastheyarealmostallfightingmen(tatatoa)theyarerestrictedthattheymaynotweakenorenervatethemselves.

TheseceremoniesbeingendedIreturnedtotheship.

SuchofthenativesasIconversedwithabouttheinstitutionofsoextraordinaryasocietyastheArreoyassertedthatitwasnecessarytopreventanoverpopulation.Worrow worrow no te mydidde, worrow worrow te tata.We have too manychildrenandtoomanymenwastheirconstantexcuse.Yetitdoesnotappearthattheyareapprehensiveoftoogreatanincreaseofthelowerclassofpeople,noneof them being ever admitted into the Arreoy society. The most remarkableinstance related tomeof thebarbarityof this institutionwasofTeppahoo, theEareeof thedistrictofTettaha,andhiswife,Tetteehowdeeah,who is sister toOtowandconsideredasapersonof thefirstconsequence. Iwas told that theyhavehadeightchildren,everyoneofwhichwasdestroyedassoonasborn.Thatany human beings were ever so devoid of natural affection as not to wish topreservealiveoneofsomanychildrenisnotcredible.It ismorereasonabletoconcludethatthedeathoftheseinfantswasnotanactofchoiceintheparents;but that they were sacrificed in compliance with some barbarous superstitionwithwhichwe areunacquainted.What strengthens this conjecture is that theyhaveadoptedanephewastheirheir,ofwhomtheyareexcessivelyfond.

In countries so limited as the islands in the South Seas, the natives ofwhich,before theywerediscoveredbyEuropeannavigators,probablyhadnotan ideaoftheexistenceofotherlands, it isnotunnatural thatanincreasingpopulationshould occasion apprehensions of universal distress.Orders of celibacywhichhave proved so prejudicial in other countriesmight perhaps in this have beenbeneficial; so far at least as to have answered their purpose by means notcriminal. The number of inhabitants atOtaheite have been estimated at aboveone hundred thousand. The island however is not cultivated to the greatestadvantage:yetweretheycontinuallytoimproveinhusbandrytheirimprovementcouldnotforalengthoftimekeeppacewithanunlimitedpopulation.

Anideaherepresentsitselfwhich,howeverfancifulitmayappearatfirstsight,seems to merit some attention:While we see among these islands so great awasteof thehumanspecies thatnumbersarebornonlytodie,andat thesametimealargecontinentsoneartothemasNewHolland,inwhichthereissogreata waste of land uncultivated and almost destitute of inhabitants, it naturallyoccurshowgreatly thetwocountriesmightbemadetobenefiteachother,and

gives occasion to regret that the islanders are not instructed in the means ofemigratingtoNewHolland,whichseemsasifdesignedbynaturetoserveasanasylumforthesuperfluxofinhabitantsintheislands.Suchaplanofemigration,if renderedpracticable to them,mightnotonlybe themeansofabolishing thehorridcustomofdestroyingchildrenasitwouldremovethepleaofnecessitybutmight lead to other important purposes.Agreat continentwould be convertedfromadeserttoapopulouscountry;anumberofourfellow-creatureswouldbesaved;theinhabitantsoftheislandswouldbecomemorecivilised;anditisnotimprobablebutthatourcoloniesinNewHollandwouldderivesomuchbenefitas to more than repay any trouble of expense that might be incurred inendeavouringtopromotesohumaneaplan.

The latterhowever isa remoteconsideration for the intertropicalpartsofNewHollandarethosemostsuitedtothehabitsandmanneroflivingoftheislanders;and likewise the soil and climate are the best adapted to their modes ofagriculture. Man placed by his Creator in the warm climates perhaps wouldneveremigrateintothecolderunlessunderthetyrannousinfluenceofnecessity;and agesmight elapse before the new inhabitantswould spread to our settlersthough they are but barelywithin the limits of frost, that great cause of nine-tenths of the necessities of Europeans. Nevertheless besides forwarding thepurposesofhumanityandgeneralconvenienceinbringingapeoplewithoutlandtoalandwithoutpeoplethebenefitofamutualintercoursewithaneighbouringandfriendlycolonywouldinitselfbenoinconsiderableadvantage.

AmongpeoplesofreefromostentationastheOtaheiteans,andwhosemannersare so simple and natural, the strictnesswithwhich the punctilios of rank areobserved is surprising. I know not if any action, however meritorious, canelevateamanabove theclass inwhichhewasbornunlesshewere toacquiresufficient power to confer dignity on himself. If any woman of the inferiorclasseshasachildbyanEareeitisnotsufferedtolive.PerhapstheoffspringofTeppahooandTetteehowdeeahweredestinedtosatisfysomecrueladjustmentofrankandprecedency.

CHAPTER7.Atheftcommitted.DeceptionofthepaintedHead.ConversationwithaPriest.AWrestlingMatch.ReportsoftheNativesconcerningotherIslands.SomeAccountofOmai.

1788.November.Monday3.

ThetradeforprovisionsIdirectedtobecarriedonatthetentbyMr.Peckoverthegunner.Moannahlikewiseresidedthereasaguardoverhiscountrymen;butthough it appeared to be the wish of all the chiefs that we should remainunmolesteditwasnotpossibleentirelytopreventthemfrompilfering.

My table at dinner was generally crowded. Tinah, Oreepyah, Poeeno, andMoannah,weremyregularguestsandIwasseldomwithoutsomechiefs fromotherdistricts.Almost every individual of any consequencehas several nameswhich makes it frequently perplexing when the same person is spoken of toknow who is meant. Every chief has perhaps a dozen or more names in thecourseofthirtyyears;sothatthepersonwhohasbeenspokenofbyonevisitorwill not perhaps be known to another unless other circumstances lead to adiscovery.ThefatherofTinah,atthistimecalledOtow,wasknownin1769bythenameofWhappai.

I showedTinah thepreparations Iwasmaking to takeonboard thebreadfruitplantswhichpleasedhimexceedingly,buthedidnot forget to remindme thatwhenthenextshipcameouthehopedKingGeorgewouldsendhimlargeaxes,files, saws, cloth of all kinds, hats, chairs, and bedsteads, with arms,ammunition,andinshorteverythinghecouldthinkofmentioning.

This afternoon the gudgeon of the rudder belonging to the large cutter wasdrawnoutandstolenwithoutbeingperceivedbythemanthatwasstationedtotake care of her. Several petty thefts having been committed by the natives,mostly owing to the negligence of our own people and, as these kind ofaccidentsgenerallycreatedalarmandhadatendencytointerruptthegoodtermson which we were with the chiefs, I thought it would have a good effect to

punishtheboat-keeperintheirpresence,manyofthemhappeningtobethenonboard;andaccordinglyIorderedhimadozenlashes.Tinahwithseveralofthechiefsattendedthepunishmentandintercededveryearnestlytogetitmitigated:the women showed great sympathy and that degree of feeling whichcharacterisestheamiablepartoftheirsex.

Thenativesbroughtofftodaytwodifferentkindsofrootsthatgrowlikeyams:onetheycallEttee,whichisasweetroot,commonalsototheFriendlyIslands,andmaybeeatenasasweetmeat:theothertheycallAppay,arootliketheTyahorEddieintheWestIndies.AfruitcalledAyyah,whichisthejamboofBatavia,was likewise brought off to us: they are as large asmiddle-sized apples, veryjuicy and refreshing, andmay be eaten in large quantities. Also someAvees,whicharetherealOtaheiteapple;but theywerenotyet inseason.Theseareadelicious high-flavoured fruit and before they are ripe answer the culinarypurposesofourapples.

Tuesday4.

AchiefcalledTootaha,whocamefromtheislandUlietea,wasintroducedtometodaybyTinahasoneofhisparticularfriends.Iwastoldthathewasapriestandapersonofgreatknowledge.IdesiredTinahtotakewhathethoughtproperasapresentforhim;andImustdoTinahthejusticetosayhewasmoresparingthanIshouldhavebeen.IlikewisereceivedavisittodayfromOedidee,themanwhohadbeenatseawithCaptainCookin1773and1774,asrelatedintheaccountofthatvoyage.HestillretainedsomeoftheEnglishwordswhichhehadlearntinthatexpedition.

Wednesday5.

Theweather variablewith lightning and frequent showers of rain.Wind east-north-east.

Thiswasthefirstdayofourbeginningtotakeupplants:wehadmuchpleasurein collecting them for the natives offered their assistance and perfectlyunderstoodthemethodoftakingthemupandpruningthem.

Thecrowdofnativeswasnot sogreatashitherto ithadbeen: thecuriosityofstrangerswassatisfiedand,astheweatherbegantobeunsettledandrainy,theyhad almost all returned to their homes so that only thepeopleofMatavai andOparre remainedwithus, except a fewchiefs fromother islands: our supplies

however were abundant and what I considered as no small addition to ourcomforts,weceasedtobeincommodedwhenonshorebythenativesfollowingus,andcouldtakeourwalksalmostunnoticed.Inanyhousethatwewishedtoenter we always experienced a kind reception and without officiousness. TheOtaheiteans have the most perfect easiness of manners, equally free fromforwardness and formality. When they offer refreshments if they are notacceptedtheydonot thinkofofferingthemthesecondtime;for theyhavenotthe least idea of that ceremonious kind of refusal which expects a secondinvitation. In like manner at taking leave we were never troubled withsolicitationstoprolongourvisit,butwentwithoutceremonyexceptmakinguseofa farewell expressionatparting.Another advantage, seldom found inwarmcountries,was, in this part ofOtaheite being free frommosquitoes, though atparticular times of the year the inhabitants are pesteredwith great numbers offlies.

Moannah continued our constant friend at the tent andwith Tinah and all hisfriendsdinedwithmeeveryday.

Theship'sbarberhadbroughtwithhimfromLondonapaintedheadsuchasthehair-dressershaveintheirshopstoshowthedifferentfashionsofdressinghair;anditbeingmadewithregularfeaturesandwell-coloured,Idesiredhimtodressit,whichhedidwithmuchneatness,andwithastickandaquantityofclothheformedabody.ItwasthenreportedtothenativesthatwehadanEnglishwomanonboardandthequarter-deckwasclearedofthecrowdthatshemightmakeherappearance.Beinghandeduptheladderandcarriedtotheafter-partofthedecktherewas a general shout of "Huaheine noBrittanemyty."Huaheine signifieswomanandmytygood.Manyofthemthoughtitwaslivingandaskedifitwasmywife.Oneoldwomanranwithpresentsofclothandbreadfruitandlaidthematherfeet;at last theyfoundout thecheat;butcontinuedalldelightedwith it,except the old ladywho felt herself mortified and took back her presents forwhichshewaslaughedatexceedingly.Tinahandallthechiefsenjoyedthejokeand,aftermakingmanyenquiriesabouttheBritishwomen,theystrictlyenjoinedmewhenIcameagaintobringashipfullofthem.

Someveryfinesugarcanewasbroughttome;eachofthepieceswassixinchesround. Ihadbefore toldTinah thatour sugarwasmadeof it andhewasverydesirous todiscover themeans; for theywere so fondofour loaf sugar that apresenttoanychiefwouldhavebeenincompletewithoutapieceofit.Anotherarticle ingreatestimationand likewiseexpected tomakepartofapresentwas

scissors,whichtheymadeuseoftokeeptheirbeardsinorder.

BythistimeNelsonhad,withassistancefromtheship,completedalargegardennearthetentsinwhichweresownseedsofdifferentkindsthatwehadcollectedat theCape ofGoodHope. I likewise distributed fruit-stones and almonds forplanting among the chiefs, who I hopewill endeavour tomake them succeedand, as they are very fond of sweet-smelling flowers with which the womendelighttoornamentthemselves,Igavethemsomerose-seed.

Thursday6.

Wehadveryvariableweather,much rain, and somewesterlywinds; so that aconsiderable swell ran into the bay and a number of spotted white and blackporpoisesmadetheirappearance.

Ihadthemortificationtoseethatourgarden-groundhadbeenmuchtrodover;andwhatwasworsethechiefsappearedbutlittleconcernedatit.Tothiskindofcarelessness and indifference I attribute themiscarriage ofmany of the plantsleftherebyCaptainCook. Ihadnow ina flourishing state twoorangeplants,somevines,afig-tree,andtwopineappleplants,whichIgavetoPoeenowhoseresidenceisaplacefavourablefortheirgrowth.

Wegotonsuccessfullywithourplants,havingahundredpottedatthetentandinafairwayofdoingwell.Thecabinalsowascompletedandreadytoreceivethemonboard.

IhavebeforeremarkedthatmyfriendTinahwasratherofaselfishdispositionand thisafternoonheshowedastronger instanceof it than Iwaswitness toatanytimebeforeorafter.HisbrotherOreepyahsentonboardtomeapresentofalargehogandaquantityofbreadfruit:butthesekindofpresentsaremuchmoreexpensivethanpurchasingatthemarket.SoonafterOreepyahhimselfcameonboard.TinahwaswithmeatthetimeandwhisperedmetotellOreepyahnottobring anymore hogs or fruit and to take those backwhich he had sent. Thisadvice as may be supposed did not produce the effect intended. Oreepyahappears tobeamanofgreatspirit,andishighlyrespectedbyhiscountrymen.AmongothervisitorstodaywasoneofthemenwhohadbeentoLimain1776.

Saturday8.

Ourplantshadnowincreasedto252:astheywereallkeptonshoreatthetentI

augmentedtheguardthere,thoughfromthegeneralconductofthenativestheredidnotappeartheleastoccasionforsomuchcaution.

WhileIwasatdinnerTinahdesiredIwouldpermitamantocomedownintothecabinwhomhecalledhisTaowahorpriest;forIwasobligedtokeepasentinelat the hatchway to prevent being incommoded at my meals with too muchcompany;arestrictionwhichpleasedthechiefswhoalwaysaskedleaveforanyparticular person to be admitted ofwhom theywishedme to take notice.Thecompanyof the priest brought on a religious conversation.He said their greatGodwas called Oro; and that they hadmany others of less consequence. HeaskedmeifIhadaGod?ifhehadason?andwhowashiswife?Itoldthemhehadasonbutnowife.Whowashisfatherandmother?wasthenextquestion.Isaidheneverhadfatherormother;atthistheylaughedexceedingly.YouhaveaGodthenwhoneverhadafatherormotherandhasachildwithoutawife!Manyotherquestionswereaskedwhichmy littleknowledgeof the languagedidnotenablemetoanswer.

Theweatherwasnowfineagainandagreatnumberofpeoplewerecomefromotherpartsoftheisland.Tinahinformedmethattherewastobeaheivaandawrestling-matchonshore,andthattheperformerswaitedforourattendance;wethereforesetoffwithseveralofourfriendsand,aboutaquarterofamilefromthetents,wefoundagreatconcourseofpeopleformedintoaring.Assoonaswewereseatedadancingheivabegan,whichwasperformedby twogirlsandfourmen:thislastedhalfanhourandconsistedofwantongesturesandmotionssuchashavebeendescribedintheaccountofformervoyages.WhenthedanceendedTinah ordered a long piece of cloth to be brought; hiswife Iddeah andmyselfweredesiredtoholdthetwofirstcornersand,theremainingpartbeingsupported by many others, we carried it to the performers and gave it them.Several other chiefs made a like present or payment. The performers werestrollersthattravelledaboutthecountryasinEurope.

After this thewrestling began and the place soon became a scene of riot andconfusion.Aparty of theArreoys also began to exercise a privilege,which itseemstheyareallowed,oftakingfromthewomensuchoftheirclothesastheythoughtworth it; so that some of themwere left little better than naked.Oneyoungwomanwhowas attacked opposed themwith all her strength and heldfasthercloth,thoughtheyalmostdraggedheralongtheground.ObservingthatItooknoticeofhersheheldoutherhandandbeggedmyassistance;andatmyrequestsheescapedbeingpillaged.

Soonafteraringwasagainmadebutthewrestlersweresonumerouswithinitthatitwasimpossibletorestoreorder.Inthechallengestheylayonehandupontheirbreastand,onthebendingofthearmattheelbow,withtheotherhandtheystrikeaverysmartblowwhich,asthehandiskepthollow,createsasoundthatmaybeheardataconsiderabledistance;andthistheydosofrequentlyandwithsuch force that the flesh becomes exceedingly bruised and, the skin breaking,bleeds considerably.At this time the sound fromsomany resembled that of anumberofpeopleinawoodfellingtrees.Thisisthegeneralchallenge;butwhenany two combatants agree to a trial they present their hands forward, joiningthemonlybytheextremitiesofthefingers.Theybeginbywatchingtotakeanadvantage; at length they close, seize each other by the hair and are mostcommonly parted before either receives a fall. Only one couple performedanything like thepartofgoodwrestlers; andas theywereanequalmatch thisconflictlastedlongerthananyoftheothers;buttheyalsowereparted.

Iddeahwas the general umpire and shemanagedwith somuch address as toprevent any quarrelling, and therewas nomurmuring at her decisions.As herpersonwaslargeshewasveryconspicuousinthecircle.Tinahtooknopart inthemanagement.Uponthewholethisperformancegavemeabetteropinionoftheirstrengththanoftheirskillordexterity.

Tuesday11.

For some timepastTinahhad talkedofgoing to the islandofTethuroawhichlieseightor ten leaguesnorth fromOtaheite to fetchhismother;but I foundIhadonlyhalfunderstoodhim;forthismorningheenquiredwhenweweretosailthereintheship:howeverheseemedtofeelnogreatdisappointmentatmynotcomplyingwithhiswish.Tethuroaheinformedmeisthepropertyofhisfamily.HelikewisespoketomeaboutanislandcalledRooopow,thesituationofwhichhe described to be to the eastward ofOtaheite four or five days sail, and thattherewere large animals upon itwith eight legs. The truth of this account heverystrenuouslyinsisteduponandwishedmetogothitherwithhim.Iwasataloss to knowwhether or not Tinah himself gave credit to this whimsical andfabulousaccount;for thoughtheyhavecredulitysufficient tobelieveanything,howeverimprobable,theyareatthesametimesomuchaddictedtothatspeciesofwitwhichwecallhumbug that it is frequentlydifficult todiscoverwhethertheyareinjestorearnest.Theirideasofgeographyareverysimple:theybelievetheworldtobeafixedplaneofgreatextent;andthat thesun,moon,andstarsare all inmotion round it. I havebeen frequently askedby them if I havenot

beenasfarasthesunandmoon;fortheythinkwearesuchgreattravellersthatscarceanyundertakingisbeyondourability.

AnotherislandcalledTappuhoi,situatedlikewisetotheeastward,wasdescribedtomebyTinah,theinhabitantsofwhichweresaidtobeallwarriors,andthatthepeopleofOtaheitedidnotdaretogothere.HetoldmethatverylatelyacanoefromTappuhoiwasattheislandMaitea;thatassoonastheylandedtheybegantofightwiththepeopleofMaiteawhokilledthemallexceptayoungladandawoman who have since been at Otaheite. I saw the boy but could get noinformationfromhim.ItismostprobablethatthisunfortunatevisitofthecanoefromTappuhoiwasnotdesignedbutoccasionedbyadversewindswhichforcedthem so far from their own island, and that the people of Maitea began theattack, takingadvantageof their superiornumbers,onaccountof someformerquarrel.

Thursday13.

Ihadalargecompanytodinewithmetoday.Someofmyconstantvisitorshadobserved thatwe always drankHisMajesty's health as soon as the clothwasremoved; but theywereby this timebecome so fondofwine that theywouldfrequentlyremindmeofthehealthinthemiddleofdinnerbycallingoutKingGeorgeEareenoBrittannee;andwouldbantermeiftheglasswasnotfilledtothebrim.Nothingcouldexceedthemirthandjollityofthesepeoplewhentheymetonboard.

IwasassuredbyOediddeeandseveralothersthatthevinesplantedattheislandHuaheinebyCaptainCookhadsucceededandborefruit;and thatsomeof theotherplants,bothatHuaheineandatOaitepeha,adistrictonthesouth-eastpartof Otaheite, had been preserved and were in a thriving state. I was likewiseinformedthattherewasabullandacowaliveatOtaheitebutondifferentpartsof the island, the former at a place called Itteah, the latter at the district ofTettaha.AlltherestweretakenawayordestroyedbythepeopleofEimeo.AsTettaha was at no great distance I determined to go thither myself the firstopportunity,andmakeenquiriesinhopesthatthebreedmightstillbepreserved.

IhadmuchdiscoursewithmyguestsaboutOmai:theyconfirmedtomethathediedaboutthirtymonthsafterCaptainCooklefttheislands.SoonafterCaptainCook'sdeparturefromHuaheinethereweresomedisputesbetweenthepeopleofthatislandandthoseofUlieteainwhichalsothenativesofBolabolatookapart.

Omai, who was become of consequence from the possessing three or fourmuskets and some ammunition, was consulted on the occasion. Suchwas hisopinionandassurancesofsuccessthatawarwasdeterminedonandtookplaceimmediately.Victory soon followed through themeansof those fewarmsandmany of theUlietea andBolabolamenwere killed. In this contest their flintsprovedbad,orprobablythelocksofthemusketshadgotoutoforder:thistheyremediedbyalightedstick,onemanpresentingthemusketandanotherwiththeburnt stick setting fire to the priming; without which contrivance their armswould have proved useless. This expedition it seems consumed all theirammunition. Peace was soon after established, but I did not understand thatOmaihad increasedhispossessionsorhis rank.Nevertheless I have reason toconclude that hewas in some degree of favourwith his countrymen from thegeneral good character which they give of him. It appears that he alwaysremembered England with kindness; for his accounts to his countrymen havebeensuchastogivethemnotonlyagreat ideaofourpowerandconsequencebutofourfriendshipandgoodwilltowardshim.

Tyvarooah, theeldestof theNewZealandboysthatwere leftwithhim,diedashorttimeafterOmai:aboutCoah,theyoungest,IhadalwaysdoubtfulaccountstillIcametoHuaheine,whereIlearntthathelikewisewasdead.

CHAPTER8.ExpeditiontoTettabaafteraHeifer.ExtraordinarydomesticArrangements.Tinah'sMothervisitstheShip.ASheepbroughtfromUlietea.HeavyStorm.DeathoftheSurgeon.TaowneandToahroahHarboursexamined.

1788.November.

AfterdinnerIwentonshoreand,whileIwasatthetents,fromhavingexposedmyselftoomuchinthesun,Iwastakenillandcontinuedinmuchpainfornearan hour. This was soon known among the natives and I was exceedinglysurprised to see Tinah and all the principal people, both men and women,collecting roundme and offering their assistance. For this short illness I wasmade ample amends by the pleasure I received from the attention andappearanceofaffectioninthesekindpeople.

Friday14.

ThismorningIhadnumberlessenquiriesaftermyhealth.TheweatherbeingfineIinvitedTinah,Oreepyah,andPoeeno,toaccompanymetoTettahainordertoenquireafterthecow;andsoonaftersunrisewesetoffinthelaunch.TettahaisnearlyfourleaguesfromPointVenus.OnourarrivalTinahsentamantogivenoticeofourvisit.Thechiefofthedistrict,whosenamewasTeppahoo,didnotappear,butsentamessengertodemandifIcameonlytoseethecowortotakeitawaywithme.InanswertothisIsentassurancesthatIonlydesiredtoseeit,andthechiefswhowerewithmespoketothesameeffect.Iwasthendesiredtoproceedintheboatfartheralongshoretothewestward.InourwayTinahmademestopamongsomefishingcanoestopurchasefishforhim,whichheeatrawwithsaltwaterforsauce.Whenwearrivedatthelanding-placeagreatnumberofpeoplehadcollected,andsoonafterTeppahooarrived.OreepyahandIwentwithhimaboutaquarterofamile,whenIwasshownoneofthemostbeautifulheifersIeversaw.Iaskedif theyhadanymorebut theyallsaid therewasnoother than a bull at Itteah, as before mentioned. I could not refrain fromexpressingmydispleasureatthedestructionandthefoolishseparationofthese

fineanimals.IhadsharedwithCaptainCookinthetroubleofthisbusinessandhadbeenequallyanxiousforthesuccess.

The district of Tettaha is not so luxuriant and fruitful as the country aboutMatavai. As I saw nothing of consequence to detain me I made a present toTeppahoo and, after inviting him to visit me on board the ship, which hepromised to do, I took leave. Tinah had remained all this time in the boat. Iobserved that no respect was shown to him at this place, nor was he able toprocure a coconut or a breadfruit otherwise than by purchasing it. The heiferbeing here is a proof of this district not having been friendly to the people ofMatavaiandOparre.

In our way back, having to row against the wind, we stopped to refresh atOparre, and itwas eighto'clockby the timewearrivedat the ship. I keptmyfellow travellers onboard to supper and theydidnot fail to remindmeof theking'shealth.

Monday17.

Our collection of breadfruit plants at the tents continued increasing. ThismorningIsenttwelveonboard,inpots,todiscoverwheretheywouldthrivethebest,theairbeingmoretemperateonboardtheshipthanonshore.WhileIwasabsentfromtheshipTeppahoohadbeenonboardandleftahogasapresentforme.

AfterdinnertodayTinah,whowasmyconstantvisitor,leftthetablesoonerthanusual.WhenhewasgoneOreepyah,hisbrother,andOedidde,toldmeapieceofscandal,whichhadbeenbeforehintedtomebutwhichtillnowIhadnotheardofwithcertainty: thiswas that Iddeah,Tinah'swife,keptagallant,whowasatowtow,orservant,andtheverypersonwhoalwaysfedTinahatdinner:andthiswassofarfrombeingwithoutTinah'sknowledgeorconsentthattheysaiditwasbyhisdesire.Theyaddedmanyothercircumstancesand,asIappearedtodoubt,theytookseveralopportunitiesinthecourseofthedayofmentioningittootherpeople,whoalldeclareditwastrue.

Tuesday18.

This afternoon I sawTeppahoo and invited him on board: beforewe parted Ibargainedwithhimfortheheiferwhichhepromisedtobringinfivedays.Myintentionwas that if Igot theheifer Iwouldendeavour topurchase thebullat

Itteah:butifthatcouldnotbedonethenIcouldsendtheheiferasapresenttothepossessorofthebull,whichmightequallywellanswermypurpose.

IthasbeenmentionedthatTinahhadaplace inmycabin tokeep those thingswhichIgavehimasbeingmoresecureonboardthanonshore.IhadremarkedlatelythathishoardseemedtodiminishthemoreIendeavouredtoincreaseit:atlengthIdiscoveredthatIddeahkeptanotherhoardinthemaster'scabin,whichshe regularly enriched from her husband's whenever I made him a present,apprehending that I shouldceasegivingwhenIsawTinah's locker full.AthisrequestIsetthecarpenterstoworktomakehimachestlargeenoughforhimselfandwifetosleepon.CaptainCookhadformerlygivenhimsuchachestbutithadbeentakenfromhimbytheEimeopeople.

Friday21.

This forenoon I received amessage fromTeppahoo to acquaintme the heiferwasbroughttoMatavai.Iimmediatelywentonshoreandfoundthathehadbeenasgoodashisword.Thepurchasemoneywaspaid,whichconsistedofashirt,ahatchet,aspikenail,aknife,apairofscissors,agimlet,andfile;towhichwasaddedasmallquantityof loaf-sugar.Teppahooappearedwellpleasedwithhisbargain; and I sent the heifer to Poeeno's residence nearwhichwas plenty ofgrass.

In theafternoonIwas invited toaheiva, themostextraordinarypartofwhichwasanoration,with someceremonies incompliment tous.Twelvemenweredivided into four ranks,with twowomen in the front;behind themall stoodapriestwhomadea speechwhich lasted tenminutesandwhichwas listened towith someattention.During this thepictureofCaptainCook,whichhadbeenbrought for that purpose, was placed by my side. When the priest left offspeakingapieceofwhiteclothwaswrappedroundthepictureandanotherpieceroundme.Thepriestthenspokeagainforashorttime,andanoldmanplacedapieceofplaitedcoconut leafatmy feet; the samewasdone toTinah,andonepiecewasputunderthepicture.Afterthisthedancingbegan,whichwasinthesamestylethatwehadalreadyseen.

Theheadoftheshipwasthefigureofawoman,andnotillcarved.Aswewerepainting the ship's upperworks I directed this figure to be painted in colours,withwhichtheislandersweremuchpleased.Notonlythemenbut thewomendesired me to bring English women when I came again. Today Oedidde,

thinkingIwasnotconvincedofthetruthofwhathehadtoldmeaboutIddeah,mentionedtheaffairtotheladyherselfinmyhearing,atwhichshelaughed,butsaidhedidilltotellmeofit.Howeveritwasevidentshewasnotmuchoffendedfortheywerebothverymuchdivertedindiscoursinguponthesubject.

Ifinditisnotatalluncommonforbrotherstohaveconnectionwiththewivesofeachother,particularlyelderbrotherswiththewivesoftheiryoungerbrothers,whichisgenerallyallowedandnooffencetaken:butifanypersonnotbelongingto the family endeavours at the same intimacy it is resented as an injury.InclinationseemstobetheonlybindinglawofmarriageatOtaheite.

AsIpurposedtogetinstrumentsonshoreatPointVenustomakeobservationsIdesiredTinahtoorderahousetobebroughtthereforme,whichwasdoneandfixedinhalfanhour,beingonlyalightshedsupportedbyposts.

Monday24.

Today I bought a turtle that was caught on the reefs. As Tinahwas going toleave me for a few days I had it dressed for his dinner. He told me that hismother,Oberreeroah,was arrived from the islandTethuroa, and begged that Iwouldsendforherinthemorningandtakecareofhertillhereturned,whichIwillinglypromised.

Tuesday25.

This morning I sent a boat to Oparre, which returned in the afternoon withOberreeroahandtwowomen,herservants.Asshewasoldandcorpulentitwaswithdifficultythatwehelpedheruptheship'sside.Assoonasshewasintheshipshesatdownonthegangwayand,claspingmykneesinherarms,expressedherpleasureatseeingmebyafloodoftears.Herservantsthenproducedthreepiecesofclothwhich,withalargehog,somebreadfruit,plantains,andcoconuts,shehadbroughtasapresent.Asshewasfatiguedbyherjourneyshewishedtoremainonboardallnight,andIdirectedaccommodationstobeprepared,whichwasdonewithlittletroubleasnothingmorewasnecessarythanamatandsomecloth spreadon thedeck.Shehadwithhera favouritecat,bred fromone thathadbeengivenherbyCaptainCook.She toldmeall themisfortunes thathadbefallenhersonandfriendssinceCaptainCookleftOtaheite.All theaccountsagreeinsomeofthecattlebeingnowaliveat theislandEimeo:inthenumbertheydifferbutthattherewereeightistheleastaccount.

Wednesday26.

Inthemorning,Oberreeroahbeingdesiroustogoonshore,Imadeherapresentofseveralthings,whichshedidnotcaretotakewithherthen,butrequestedthatIwouldkeepthemsafeforher.OnlyMoannahandPoeenodinedwithmetoday.They told me that Tinah and his brother Oreepyah were not on good termstogether,anditwasimaginedthattheywouldfightassoonastheshipwasgone.Ihadobservedacoolnessbetweenthem,andhadattimesendeavouredtomakethemmore cordial, butwith very little effect. Their quarrel has arisen from adisagreementbetweentheirwives.

IntheafternoonacanoefromUlieteaarrivedinwhichwasanEareeorchiefofthatisland,whoisanephewtoOberreeroah.Hebroughtasheepwithhim:thepoor animal was infected with the mange and in very poor condition. TheclimatehadnotasfarasIcouldjudgealteredthequalityofthewool,withwhichhewaswellcoveredexceptapartabouttheshoulders.IimaginethisanimaltobetheEnglisheweleftbyCaptainCook.TheownerassuredmethatthereweretensheepatHuaheine; thetruthofwhichImuchdoubted.Iwassurprisedandrathermortifiedtofindthathesetsolittlevalueonthisastoletmehaveit,atthefirstword,forasmalladze.IsentittobekeptatPoeeno'swiththeheifer.

Friday28.

TinahandhiswifereturnedtoMatavaiand,fromappearanceswhichIhavenoreasontomistrust,weresincerelygladtoseemeagainaftertheirshortabsence.Theybroughtasusualapresentofahogandfruit.Thismorning therewasaneclipseofthesun,buttheweatherwassocloudythatIhadonlyanopportunityof observing the end of the eclipse, which was at 19 hours 43 minutes 53seconds.

Saturday29.

Isentamantosheartheewe,bywhicharemedycouldmoreeasilybeappliedtocurethediseasewithwhichitwasinfected.Thegardenmadenearthetentswasnotinaprosperouscondition:mostofthemelonsandcucumbersweredestroyedby insects; and the soil being sandy was not favourable to the other seeds. Itherefore chose another spot of ground farther from the seaside and had anassortmentofseedssown.

December.Monday1.

Inthenighttherudderofoneoftheboatswasstolenfromthetents.OnlandinginthemorningneitherTinahnoranyofhisfamilycamenearme,being,Iwasinformed,afraidofmydispleasure.AsthelosswasnotgreatIimmediatelysenttoassurethemthatIhadnoangerexceptagainstthepersonwhocommittedthetheft.InconsequenceofthismessageTinahandsomeoftheotherchiefscametothetentsandpromisedthattheywouldexertthemselvestodiscoverthethiefandgettherudderrestored.Thiswasthefirsttheftofanyconsequencethathadbeencommittedsince the tentswereonshore,andmysuspicionsfellchieflyon thepeoplewhowereherefromsomeof theother islands.TinahhadjustbeguntobuildahouseforhimselfandIpromisedthatourcarpentersshouldassisthim.Whydooah, theyoungestbrotherofTinah,had latelybeenoneofmyconstantvisitorsandseemedtohaveleftoffhisformercustomofgettingdrunkwiththeAva. He was esteemed one of their best warriors; and I was told that in thequarrelwiththepeopleofEimeohekilledMaheinethechiefofthatisland.

Friday5.

Theweatherforsometimepasthadbeenveryunsettled.Thisafternoonthewindblew fresh from the north-west, which occasioned the sea to break very highacrosstheDolphinbank;andinthenightsuchaheavybrokenseacameintothebay that we were obliged to batten all the hatchways down, and to keepeverybodyupondeckallnightthoughtheraincamedownintorrents.Theshiprolledinamostviolentmanner.

Saturday6.

Inthemorningthewindincreasingand,therebeingnopossibilityofputtingtosea,westruckyardsandtopmastsandtrustedtoouranchors.Theriverswelledsomuchwiththerainthatthepointoflandonwhichthetentsstoodbecameanisland; and topreserve thebreadfruitplants frombeingendangered thepeoplewere obliged to cut a passage for the river through a part of the beach at adistance from the tents. The sea broke very high on the beach; nevertheless acanoeputoffandtomysurpriseTinah,hiswife,andMoannahmadetheirwaygoodthroughthesurfandcameonboardtoseeme.Therewasnootherpersonin thecanoefor theweatherdidnotadmitofuselesspassengers:eachof themhad a paddle which they managed with great activity and skill. These kindpeopleembracedmewithmanytearsandexpressedtheirapprehensionsforthesafetyof theship.Towardsnoonhowever theseaabatedconsiderably,but thewindcontinued toblowstrong from thenorth-west.At sunset Iddeahwenton

shorebutTinahwouldremainwithmethewholenight.

Sunday7.

The wind continued between the north and north-west but had so muchmoderated that I no longer considered our situation to be alarming. At noonIddeah returned to the ship with a large hog and a supply of breadfruit andcoconuts;andsoonaftersheandTinahleft theship,havingexactedapromisefrommethat if theweatherwasmoderateIwouldgoonshore in themorningandvisittheirparentsandsisterwho,theytoldme,hadbeenmuchalarmedonouraccount.Ireceivedavisit likewisefromPoeenoandhiswife.Thiswomanhadalwaysshowngreatregardforus;andnow,onourmeeting,beforeIcouldbeawareofit,shebeganbeatingherheadviolentlywithashark'stoothsothather facewascoveredwithblood inan instant. Iputastop to thisassoonas Icould,andwiththedryingupofthebloodheragitationsubsided.Thisceremonyisfrequentlyperformeduponoccasionseitherofjoyorgrief.Herhusbandsaidthat if any accident happened to the ship I should livewithhimand that theywouldcutdowntreesandbuildmeanothership.

From this sample of the weather and the information of the natives I wasconvinceditwouldnotbesafe tocontinueinMatavaiBaymuchlonger;andIdeterminedtogeteverythingreadyforsailingasspeedilyasIcould.

Monday8.

The night provedmoderate and in themorning I went on shore where I wasreceivedbyOberreeroah,andseveralotherfriendswithgreataffection.

The plants received no injury from the bad weather having been carefullycoveredfromthesprayofthesea:somewereinadormantstateandotherswerestrikingoutyoungshoots.Nelsonthoughtthatitwasbettertorefrainafewdaysfromtakingthemonboard;Ithereforeconsentedtodeferit.Hewasofopinionthat the plants could be propagated from the roots only, and I directed someboxestobefilledaswecouldstowthemwherenootherscouldbeplaced.

Tuesday9.

This afternoon, in hauling the launch on shore to be repaired, many of thenativesassisting,oneofthem,afineboyabouttenyearsold,wasthrowndownandarollerwhichwasplacedundertheboatwentoverhim.Thesurgeonbeing

illIsentoffforhisassistant.Fortunatelynolimbwasbrokennordidhereceiveany material injury. The surgeon had been a long time ill, the effect ofintemperanceandindolence.Hehadlatterlyscarceeverstirredoutofhiscabinbutwasnotapprehendedtobeinadangerousstate;neverthelessthiseveningheappearedtobesomuchworsethanusualthatitwasthoughtnecessarytoremovehimtosomeplacewherehecouldhavemoreair;buttonoeffectforhediedinanhourafterwards.Thisunfortunatemandrankveryhardandwassoaversetoexercise that he neverwould be prevailed on to take half a dozen turns upondeckatatimeinthecourseofthevoyage.

Wednesday10.

AsIwishedtoburythesurgeononshoreImentionedittoTinah,whosaidtherewouldbenoobjectionbutthatitwouldbenecessarytoaskhisfather'sconsentfirst;whichheundertooktodoandimmediatelyleftmeforthatpurpose.Bythiscircumstance itappears that, though theeldestsonofanEareesucceeds to thetitleandhonoursofthefatherassoonasheisborn,yetaconsiderableportionofauthority remains with the father even after the son is of age. When TinahreturnedIwentwithhimtothespotintendedfortheburialplace,takingwithustwomen to dig the grave; but on our arrival I found the natives had alreadybegun it.Tinah askedme if theyweredoing right? "There," sayshe, "the sunrisesandthereitsets."TheideathatthegraveshouldbeeastandwestIimaginetheylearntfromtheSpaniards,asthecaptainofoneoftheirshipswasburiedatOeitepeha in 1774. Certain it is they had not the information from anybodybelongingtoourship;forIbelieveweshouldnothavethoughtofit.Thegravehoweverwasmarked out very exactly.At four in the afternoon the bodywasinterred: the chiefs and many of the natives came to see the ceremony andshowed great attention during the service. Some of the chiefs were veryinquisitive aboutwhatwas to be donewith the surgeon's cabin on account ofapparitions. They said when a man died in Otaheite and was carried to theTupapow that as soon as night camehewas surrounded by spirits, and if anypersonwenttherebyhimselftheywoulddevourhim:thereforetheysaidthatnotlessthantwopeopletogethershouldgointothesurgeon'scabinforsometime.Ididnotendeavourtodissuadethemfromthisbeliefotherwisethanbylaughingandlettingthemknowthatwehadnosuchapprehensions.

IntheafternoontheeffectsofthedeceasedweredisposedofandIappointedMr.ThomasDenmanLedwardthesurgeon'smatetododutyassurgeon.

Friday12.

IwentinaboattoexaminetheharboursaboutOparreandfoundtwoformedbythereefs.Thewesternmostisthemostconvenientforsailinginoroutbutisnotwell sheltered from a north-west wind or sea. This harbour is called by thenativesTaowne:itisaboutaleagueandahalfdistantfromPointVenusandmaybeknownbyaremarkablemountain,calledbythenativesWawry,whichbearssouth-south-eastfromtheentrance.

Theeasternmostharbour iscalledToahroah. It is smallbutas secureasa reefharbourcanwellbe.ItisaboutthreemilesdistantfromPointVenus.Thechiefobjection to this harbour is the difficulty of getting out with the commontradewind,theentrancebeingontheeastside,notmorethanonehundredyardswideandthedepthwithout inconvenientforwarping.Onthesouthsideof theentranceisaMorai:thereefsideistobekeptonboardandalookouttobekeptfromaloft,whencetheshoalwaterisbetterdiscernedthanfromthedeck.

Sunday14.

This forenoon we performed divine service. Many of the principal nativesattended and behaved with great decency. Some of the women at one timebetrayedaninclinationtolaughatourgeneralresponses;butonmylookingatthemtheyappearedmuchashamed.AftertheserviceIwasaskedifnoofferingwastobemadefortheEatuatoeat.

The weather had been fair all the last week and at this time appeared quitesettled,sothatIwasundernoapprehensionsofdangerfromcontinuingalittlelongerinMatavaibay.

Sketchfromrecollectionandanchor-bearingsofthenorthpartofOtaheitefromPointVenustoTaowneHarbour.

A.Bounty-Rock,wheretheshipstruck,9feetwater.B.ToahroahHarbour,wheretheshiplay.

C.TettyoorahHarbour.

CHAPTER9.AWalkintotheCountry.ThePeeahRoah.PrevailedonbytheKindnessoftheChiefstodeferourDeparture.BreadfruitPlantscollected.MovetheShiptoToahroahHarbour.Fishing.ThreeoftheShip'sCompanydesert.IndiscretionofourPeopleonShore.InstancesofJealousy.Mourning.BullbroughttoOparrebyaProphet.TheDesertersrecovered.TinahproposestovisitEngland.

1788.December.Wednesday17.

ThismorningItookawalkintothecountryaccompaniedbyNelsonandmyoldfriendMoannah.Thebreadthoftheborderoflowlandbeforewearrivedatthefoot of the hillswas near threemiles. This part of our journeywas through adelightfulcountry,wellcoveredwithbreadfruitandcoconut-trees,andstrewedwith houses in which were swarms of children. We then proceeded along avalley,stillamonghouses,withplantationsofyams, tarro, thecloth-plant,andtheirfavouriteroottheAva:therewerebreadfruittreesonthesidesofthehillswhichweredwarfsincomparisonofthoseonthelowland.Ourwalkwasverymuchinterruptedbyariver,thecourseofwhichwassoserpentinethatwehadtocrossitseveraltimes,beingcarriedoveronmen'sshoulders.

OnarrivingataMoraiIsawanumberofthenativescollectedandwasinformedthat the priests were performing their devotions. Sixteenmen were sitting ontheirheels; in the frontwasapolecoveredwithaplaitedcoconutbranch,andbefore each of themen there was a number of small pieces of the same leafplaited,whichtheycallHahyree,andeachhadlikewiseapieceroundhiswrist.Onewhoappearedtobethechiefpriestprayedaloud,andwasansweredbyallthe rest together:aftera fewshort sentencesand responses they roseandeachcarried anHahyree,which they placed at the foot of the pole and returned toprayer: this was repeated till all the Hahyree were delivered and then theceremonyended.Imustnotforgettomentionthattheyhadplacednearthepole

anofferingofplantainsandbreadfruit,whichtheyleftfortheEatua.Theyverykindly asked us to partake of a roasted hog that had been prepared for themwhilst they were praying; but as I wished to make the most of the morningbefore the sun was too high I declined their offer, and Moannah bespokerefreshmentstobereadyforuswhenwereturned.

We continued our walk up the valley, which became very narrow, and hadadvanced a considerable way beyond all the houses and plantations whenwewere suddenly stopped by a cascade that fell into the river from a height ofabove200feet:thefallatthistimewasnotgreatbutintheheavyrainsmustbeconsiderable. The natives look upon this as the most wonderful sight in theisland.Thefallofwateristheleastcuriouspart;thecliffoverwhichitcomesisperpendicular,forminganappearanceasifsupportedbysquarepillarsofstone,andwitha regularity that is surprising.Underneath isapooleightornine feetdeepintowhichthewaterfalls;andinthisplaceallthenativesmakeapointofbathingonceintheirlives,probablyfromsomereligiousidea.

Thehillshereapproacheachotherwithinafewyardsandarewellcoveredwithwood. As the road appeared difficult I did not care to proceed towards themountain.Icannotwithcertaintysayhowfarthiscuriousprecipiceisfromthebay,butthinkintheroadbywhichwewentitcannotbelessthansevenmiles.ItiscalledPeeahRoah.

Inourreturnwefoundayoungpigpreparedforusandwemadeaheartymeal.Wedined in thehouseofanoldacquaintanceofNelson's forwhomhehad in1777plantedthetwoshaddockplantsformerlymentionedwhichhehadbroughtfrom theFriendly Islands.Thesewehad the satisfaction to seeweregrown tofinetreesandfulloffruit.

In their plantations they do not takemuch pains exceptwith theAva and theCloth-plant,bothofwhichtheyarecarefultokeepclearofweeds.Manyoftheplantations of the cloth-plant were fenced with stone and surrounded with aditch.Theyamsandplantainsaremostlyonthehighergrounds.Assoonaswehadfinishedourdinnerwereturned towards theship. Iwasmuchdelighted inthiswalkwith the numberof children that I saw in everypart of the country:theyareveryhandsomeandsprightlyandfullofantic tricks.TheyhavemanydiversionsthatarecommonwiththeboysinEnglandsuchasflyingkites,catscradle, swinging, dancing or jumping in a rope, walking upon stilts andwrestling.

Friday19.

Thewind todayblewfreshbutcontinuedregular fromtheeastandeast-south-east.Wehadlikewisemuchrainandalongswellsetintothebay.Ihadnotyetdeterminedwhether,onleavingMatavaibay,IwouldgototheislandEimeoortotheharbourofToahroahnearOparre:thisuncertaintymadeTinahandtherestofmyfriendsveryanxious;andtheyappearedmuchdistressedonmydesiringthem thisafternoon to sendonboardall the thingswhich theywished tohaverepairedbytheforgewithoutdelay,thatwhattheywantedmightbedonebeforethe ship leftMatavai, which I told them would be in a few days. They veryearnestly entreated I would stay one month longer. I represented this asimpossibleandaskedTinah ifhewouldnotgowithme toEimeo;buthesaidthat notwithstanding my protection he was certain the Eimeo people wouldwatchforanopportunitytokillhim.Heremainedonboardwithmeallnightbuthis wife went on shore and returned early in the morning, bringing with hersomeaxesandotherthingsthatwereinneedofrepair.

Saturday20.

WhenIwentonshoreIfoundOtow,Oberreeroah,Moannah,andseveralothersingreat tribulationat the thoughts thatweweresosoonto leavethem.All thepeople of Matavai I saw were much concerned at my intention of going toEimeo, and took every opportunity to prejudiceme against the people of thatisland;towhichIpaidverylittleattentionastheirmotivewasobvious.

Sunday21.

Their expressions of friendship and affection for me however I could notdisregard,asIhadnodoubtoftheirbeinggenuineandunaffected,andIfeltmyunwillingness to leavethesekindpeoplesomuchincreasedthat thenextdayIsentthemasterinthelaunchtoreexaminethedepthofwaterbetweenthisbayandToahroah harbour.He returned in the evening and acquaintedme that hefoundagoodbottomwithnotlessthansixteenfathomsdepthalltheway.TheharbourofToahroahappearingeverywaysafeIdeterminedtogettheshipthereas speedily as possible, and I immediately made my intention public, whichoccasionedgreatrejoicing.

Wednesday24.

Thisdaywetooktheplantsonboard,being774pots,allinahealthystate;for

wheneveranyplanthadanunfavourableappearanceitwasreplacedbyanother.Thenumberofthoserejectedwas302,ofwhichnotoneintenbutwasfoundtobegrowingattheroot.

The natives reckon eight kinds of the breadfruit tree, each of which theydistinguishbyadifferentname.1.Patteah.2.Eroroo.3.Awanna.4.Mi-re.5.Oree.6.Powerro.7.Appeere.8.Rowdeeah.Inthefirst,fourth,andeighthclasstheleafdiffersfromtherest;thefourthismoresinuated;theeighthhasalargebroadleafnotatallsinuated.Thedifferenceofthefruitisprincipallyinthefirstandeighthclass.Inthefirstthefruitisratherlargerandmoreofanoblongform:intheeighthit isroundandnotabovehalf thesizeof theothers.Ienquiredifplantscouldbeproducedfromtheseedandwastoldtheycouldnotbutthattheymustbetakenfromtheroot.Theplantsarebestcollectedafterwetweather,atwhich time the earth balls round the roots and they are not liable to suffer bybeingmoved.

Themost commonmethodof dividing time atOtaheite is bymoons; but theylikewisemakeadivisionoftheyearintosixparts,eachofwhichisdistinguishedbythenameofthekindofbreadfruittheninseason.InthisdivisiontheykeepasmallintervalcalledTawainwhichtheydonotusethebreadfruit.ThisisabouttheendofFebruarywhenthefruitisnotinperfection;butthereisnopartoftheyearinwhichthetreesareentirelybare.

Thursday25.

At daylight we unmoored and I sent the tents in the launch to Oparre withdirections that, after landing them, the launch should meet the ship in theentranceofToahroahharbourtoshowthesafestpartofthechannel.Athalf-pasttenwegottheshipundersailandrandownundertop-sails:whenwewerenearthelaunchitfellcalmandtheshipshotpasther.Weimmediatelylettheanchorgobut toourgreat surprisewe found theshipwasaground forwards.Shehadrunonsoeasythatwehadnotperceiveditatthetime.Thisaccidentoccasionedusmuch troubleaswewereobliged tosendanchorsoutastern toget theshipafloat:indoingthisoneofthecablessweptarockandwasnotgotclearagainwithoutmuchdifficulty.WhentheshipwasmooredPointVenusborenorth46degreeseast.Theeastpointoftheharbournorth65degreeseastone-quarterofamile. Our distance from the shore half a cable's length; depth of water 8 1/2fathoms.

Friday26.

ThenextmorningonmylandingIwaswelcomedbyalltheprincipalpeople;Imaysaybythewholecrowd,andcongratulatedonthesafetyoftheship.Tinahshowedmeahousenearthewatersideabreasttheship,whichhedesiredIwouldmakeuseofandwhichwaslargeenoughforallourpurposes.HeandhisbrotherOreepyah then desired Iwould stay and receive a formal address and presentwhichtheycalledOtee.TothisIassentedandastoolwasbroughtformetositon.TheythenleftmewithMoannahandinashort timeIsawTinahreturningwithabouttwentymenwhoallmadeastopatsomedistance,andapriestsaidashortprayertotheEatua,towhichtherestmadereply.Amanwasthensenttomethreeseveral times,ateachtimebringingmeasmallpigandthestemofaplantainleaf.ThefirsttheytoldmewasfortheGodofBrittannee,thenextforKingGeorge,andthelastformyself.Moannahthengotupand,withoutbeingdictatedto,madeanorationforme;thepurportofwhichIunderstoodtobethatIreceivedtheirofferingwiththanks;thatweweregoodpeopleandfriends;andthereforeheexhortedthemtocommitnothefts:hetoldthemtobringtheirpigs,coconuts,andbreadfruit,andtheywouldreceivegoodthingsinreturn;thatwetooknothingwithout their consent; and finally that everymanwas toquit theplace(thehouseweoccupied)atnight;foriftheymadeanyvisitinthedarktheywouldbekilled.Withthisspeechtheceremonyended.

Ifoundthisadelightfulsituationandineveryrespectconvenient.Theshipwasperfectlyshelteredbythereefsinsmoothwaterandclosetoafinebeachwithoutthe least surf.A small riverwith very goodwater runs into the sea about themiddleoftheharbour.Igavedirectionsfortheplantstobelandedandthesameparty to be with them as at Matavai. Tinah fixed his dwelling close to ourstation.

Monday29.

Some of the natives took advantage of the butcher's negligence and stole hiscleaver.Icomplainedofthistothechiefswhowereonboardandtheypromisedthattheywouldendeavourtorecoverit;butanarticlesovaluableasthiswastothenativesIhadnogreatexpectationofseeingrestored.

Theshipcontinuedtobesuppliedbythenativesasusual.Coconutswereinsuchplenty that I believe not a pint of water was drunk on board the ship in thetwenty-fourhours.Breadfruitbegan tobescarce thoughwepurchasedwithout

difficultyasufficientquantityforourconsumption:therewashoweveranotherharvest approaching which they expected would be fit for use in five or sixweeks.Thebetterkindofplantainsalsowerebecomescarce;butakindwhichtheycallvayheewereingreatplenty.Thisfruitdoesnothangonthetreeslikethe other kinds but grows upon an upright stalk of considerable strength andsubstance. Though this plantain is inferior in quality to most of the others itaffordsgreatsubsistencetothenatives.Wereceivedalmosteverydaypresentsoffish,chieflydolphinandalbacore,andafewsmallrockfish.Theirfishingismostlyinthenightwhentheymakestronglightsonthereefswhichattractthefishtothem.Sometimesinfineweatherthecanoesareoutinsuchnumbersthatthewholeseaappearsilluminated.Inthecanoestheyfishwithhookandlineandonthereefstheystruckthefishwithaspear.Somelikewisecarryoutsmallnetswhicharemanagedbytwomen.Inthedaytimetheirfishingcanoesgowithoutthe reefs, sometimes to a considerabledistance,where they fishwith rods andlinesandcatchbonetasandotherfish.Wheneverthereisashowoffishafleetofcanoesimmediatelyproceedstosea.Theirhooksbeingbrightareusedwithoutbait in themanner of our artificial flies. Their rods aremade of bamboo; butwhenthereareanyverylargefishtheymakeuseofanoutriggerover theforepartofthecanoe,abouttwenty-fivefeetinlength,whichhastwoprongsattheextremity,toeachofwhichisfastenedahookandline;andwhenafishtakesthehookitisraisedbyropesmanagedbytwomeninthesternofthecanoe.

January1789.Thursday1.

Contrary tomy expectationTinah this afternoonbrought on board the cleaverthathadbeen stolen.The thiefhad taken it toAttahooroo, andTinah toldme,whichIcouldeasilybelieve,thatitwasgivenupwithreluctance.

Friday2.

ThenextmorningIofferedTinahapresentofaxesandother thingsbut,ashesuspected thiswasmeantbywayof return forgetting the cleaver restored, hewouldnotbeprevailedwithtoacceptasinglearticle.

IhadconstantlythecompanyofTinah,hiswife,andsomeofhisrelations;buttheroyalchildren,thoughsonearus,nevercameinsightoftheship.Theriverseparatedthemfromtheplaceoccupiedbyourpeopleonshoreand,forfearofgivingalarmoroffence,Igavestrictordersthatnooneshouldattempttogoneartheirplaceofresidence.

Monday5.

At the relief of the watch at four o'clock this morning the small cutter wasmissing. I was immediately informed of it and mustered the ship's company,when it appeared that three men were absent: Charles Churchill, the ship'scorporalandtwooftheseamen,WilliamMuspratandJohnMillward,thelatterofwhomhadbeensentinelfromtwelvetotwointhemorning.Theyhadtakenwith them eight stand of arms and ammunition; but what their plan was, orwhichwaytheyhadgone,nooneonboardseemedtohavetheleastknowledge.IwentonshoretothechiefsandsoonreceivedinformationthattheboatwasatMatavai; and that the deserters had departed in a sailing canoe for the islandTethuroa.OnthisintelligenceIsentthemastertoMatavaitosearchforthesmallcutter,andoneofthechiefswentwithhim;butbeforetheyhadgothalfwaytheymet the boatwith five of the nativeswhowere bringing her back to the ship.This service rendered me by the people of Matavai pleased me much and Irewardedthemenaccordingly.

I told Tinah and the other chiefs that I expected theywould get the desertersbroughtback;forthatIwasdeterminednottoleaveOtaheitewithoutthem.Theyassuredmethattheywoulddoeverythingintheirpowertohavethemtakenanditwas agreed thatOreepyah andMoannah shoulddepart thenextmorning forTethuroa.Oreepyahenquired if theyhadpocketpistols "for," saidhe, "thoughwemaysurpriseandseizethembeforetheycanmakeuseoftheirmuskets,yetiftheyhavepistols theymaydomischief,evenwhile theyareheld."Iquietenedtheseapprehensionsbyassuringthemthatthedesertershadnopistolswiththem.

Tuesday6.

AtdaylightOreepyahandMoannahsetoffintwocanoesforTethuroa,buttheweatherbecamesoboisterousthat theywereobligedtoreturnin theforenoon,and Iwas happy to see them get safe in as the sea ran very highwithout theharbour. From the first of this month the weather and winds had been muchunsettledwithagreatdealofrain.OurformerstationatMatavaiappearednotatallsafe,theseaattimesbreakinghighovertheDolphinbankandmakingagreatswellinthebay.OreepyahandMoannahbothpromisedmethattheywouldsailagainassoonastheweathershouldbefine.

Friday9.

Thewindcontinuedtoblowstrongatseathoughintheharbourwehadattimesbutlightbreezes.Poeeno,fromMatavai,cametoseemetoday:hesaidhewasapprehensivethatIwasdispleasedwithhimonaccountofourdesertershavingbeencarried toTethuroabya canoe fromMatavai.Thishedeclaredhadbeendone before he heard of it; and that the only service in his power he had notneglectedtodoforme,whichwasthesendingourboatback.AsthiswasreallyanactoffriendshipIreceivedhimwithgreatcordiality;andheassuredmethatthere could be no doubt from the directions Tinah had given of the desertersbeingbroughttotheshipassoonastheweatherwouldadmitcanoestogoafterthem.

Saturday10.

Oneoftheofficersthismorningonshoreinadvertentlypluckedabranchfromatree called Tutuee, that bears the oil nut, which was growing at aMorai. Onenteringwithitintothehouseoccupiedbyourpeopleallthenatives,bothmenandwomen,immediatelywentaway.WhenIwentonshoreIfoundthisbranchtiedtooneofthepostsofthehouse,althoughtheeffectithadonthenativeswasknown. I was much displeased at this piece of wantonness and ordered thebranchtobetakenaway;but thenativesnotwithstandingwouldnotcomenearthe place. They said the house was taboo, which I understand to signifyinterdicted,andthatnoneofthemmightapproachittillthetaboowastakenoff,which could only be done by Tinah. To take anything away from aMorai isregarded as a kind of sacrilege and, they believe, gives great offence to theEatua.AtmyrequestTinahtookoffthetaboo,butnotbeforetheafternoon.ThiswasperformedbyanofferingofaplantainleafattheMorai,andaprayermadeto theEatua.After this ceremony the housewas resorted to by the natives asusual.

IhadnotyetgivenupthehopeofobtainingthebullfromItteah, thoughIhadhithertoreceivednosatisfactoryanswertothemessageswhichTinahhadsentatmydesire:IthereforespoketoPoeenowhoundertooktonegotiatethisbusiness,andIcommissionedhimtomakeveryliberaloffers.HeleftmeafterdinnertoreturntoMatavai.Intheeveningamessengerarrivedfromhimtoacquaintmethat,inhisabsence,thesheepwhichIhadtrustedtohiscarehadbeenkilledbyadog;andthathehadsenttheculprit,hopingthatIwouldkillhimfortheoffencehehadcommitted.ThispoorsheephadbeensomuchdiseasedthatIcouldnothelpsuspectinghediedwithoutthedog'sassistance,andthatthestoryofthedogwas invented to preventmy attributing it towant of care. This doubt did not

appearinmyanswer;asforthedogItoldthemessengertodowithhimwhathepleased.

Tuesday13.

Thismorning,theweatherbeingmoremoderatethanithadbeenforsomedayspast,OreepyahsailedwithtwocanoesforTethuroa.

Wednesday14.

SomebusinesspreventedMoannahfromaccompanyinghimbuthefollowedthenext daywith two other canoes. Thewood that we had got atMatavai beingexpendedIappliedtoTinah,whosentthreetreesdowntothewatersidebeforenight,whichwhencutupmadeagoodlaunchload.

I saw two instances of jealousy todayoneofwhichhadnearly produced fatalconsequences.Amanwasdetectedwithamarriedwomanbythehusband,whostabbedhiminthebellywithaknife:fortunatelytheintestinesescapedandthewound did not prove dangerous. The other instance was a girl, who hadconstantly livedwithmycoxswain,beatinganothergirl that shediscovered tohavebeentoointimatewithhim.

Friday16.

InwalkingtodaywithTinahnearatupapowIwassurprisedbyasuddenoutcryofgrief.AsIexpressedadesiretoseethedistressedpersonTinahtookmetotheplacewherewefoundanumberofwomen,oneofwhomwas themotherofayoung female child that lay dead. On seeing us their mourning not onlyimmediatelyceased,buttomyastonishmenttheyallburstintoanimmoderatefitoflaughter,andwhileweremainedappearedmuchdivertedwithourvisit.ItoldTinahthewomanhadnosorrowforherchildotherwisehergriefwouldnothaveso easily subsided; on which he jocosely told her to cry again: they did nothoweverresumetheirmourninginourpresence.Thisstrangebehaviourwouldinclineus to think themhardheartedandunfeeling,didwenotknow that theyarefondparentsandingeneralveryaffectionate:itisthereforetobeascribedtotheirextremelevityofdisposition;anditisprobablethatdeathdoesnotappeartothemwithsomanyterrorsasitdoestopeopleofamoreseriouscast.

Sunday18.

IreceivedamessagefromPoeenotoacquaintmethathehadbeensuccessfulinhis negotiation for the bull,which he had driven part of theway by land, butcouldnotgetfartheronaccountoftheriversandthereforedesiredaboatshouldbe sent for him. I accordingly ordered the launch to be got ready and at twoo'clockthenextmorningMr.Fryer,themaster,setoffinher.

Monday19.

IntheafternoonthelaunchreturnedwiththebullandmyfriendPoeeno.Forthenight Idirected that thebull should remainatOparreand thenextdayhewastakentothecowatMatavai.

Wednesday21.

TodayPoeenobroughttomethepersonfromwhomhehadthebull toreceivethestipulatedpayment,whichwasoneofeveryarticleoftrafficthatIhadinmypossession.Thisman,whosenamewasOweevee,theytoldmewasinspiredbyadivinespirit;andthatinallmattersofconsequencehewasconsulted,forthatheconversed with the Eatua. It was, they said, the Eatua that ordered him todemandthebullfromTinah,whichnottohavecompliedwithwouldhavebeenthe height of impiety. I endeavoured to convince them of the roguery of thisman, thinking I had a fair argument to prove it by his selling that which theEatuahadorderedhimtokeep;buthereIwaseasilydefeatedfor it seems theEatuatoldhimtosellmethebeast.ThisbeingthecaseIsaidIwouldnotgivetheanimalstoanyperson;thattheywerenowmineandthatIwouldleavethemundertheprotectionofPoeenoandTinahwhoIhopedwouldtakecareofthemformetillIreturned.Theybothenteredintomyviewsandpromisedtheanimalsshould be attended to, and told me that, while they were considered as myproperty,noonewouldattempttotakethemaway.

Thursday22.

This afternoon I received a message from Teppahoo to inform me that ourdesertershadpassedthisharbourandwereatTettaha,aboutfivemilesdistant.Iorderedthecuttertobegotready,andalittlebeforesunsetlefttheship,takingOedideewithme.ByhisadviceIlandedatsomedistancefromtheplacewherethe deserterswere but, thinking it necessary to have the boatwithin call, andOedideeassuringmethattherewassafelandingfartheron,IdirectedtheboattoproceedalongshorewhilstOedideeandIwalkedalongthebeach.Thenightwas

verydarkandwindyandtheshorebeingrockyIsoonlostsightoftheboat.AfewofthenativeshadjoinedusinourwalkandfromtheirmannerIhadreasonto suspect them of a design to close upon us, with an intention no doubt toplunder: Iwasprovidedwithpocket-pistolsandonproducingone they leftus.Oedideewas somuch alarmed that I could scarce prevail on him to proceed.WhenwearrivedatTeppahoo'shousewewereverykindlyreceivedbyhimandhiswife.Thecutterwasarrivedbut therebeingaveryhighsurfshecouldnotcomewithinahundredyardsoftheshore.

ThedesertersIwasinformedwereinahouseclosetous,andIimaginedtherewouldbenogreatdifficultyinsecuringthemwiththeassistanceofthenatives.They had however heard of my arrival; and when I was near the house theycameoutwithouttheirarmsanddeliveredthemselvesup.Isentdirectionsofftotheboatforoneofmypeopletocomeonshoreandfortheboattoreturntotheplacewhere I had landed.My next businesswas to secure the arms, which Idelivered to Teppahoo to take charge of for the night. One musket and twobayonetsweremissing,which they saidwere lost by the canoe inwhich theycame from Tethuroa having overset. I then took leave of Teppahoo whopresented uswith a plentiful supply of provisions, andweproceededwith thedeserters towards theboatbut, as thewindhad increased and it rainedhard, Ideterminedtoremainonshoretillthemorning;andhavingfoundshelterforthepeoplewepassedtheremainderofthenightwithoutaccident.AtdaylightIsentforthearmsandwereturnedtotheship.

Friday23.

I learnt from the deserters that at Tethuroa they had seen Oreepyah andMoannah, who had made an attempt to secure them. They said it was theirintentiontohavereturnedtotheship;anditisprobablethattheyweresomuchharassedby thenativeswatching for anopportunity to surprise them that theymight wish to have the merit of returning of their own accord, to avoid thedisgraceofbeingseizedandbroughtback.Atthetimetheydeliveredthemselvesup tome itwas not in their power to havemade resistance, their ammunitionhavingbeenspoiledbythewet.

In consequence of my having been kept all night from the ship by thetempestuous weather the timekeeper went down at 10 hours 5 minutes 36seconds.Itsrateprevioustothiswas1second,7losingin24hours,anditserrorfromthemeantimeatGreenwichwas7minutes29seconds,2tooslow.Isetit

goingagainbyacommonwatch,correctedbyobservations,andendeavouredtomaketheerrorthesameasif ithadnotstopped;butbeingovercautiousmademe tedious in setting it inmotion, and increased the error frommean time atGreenwich.TherateofgoingIdidnotfindtohavealtered.

AtdinnerTinahcongratulatedmeonhavingrecoveredmymen,butexpressedsomeconcernthattheyhadnotbeenbroughtbyOreepyahandMoannah,lestIshould imagine they had not done everything in their power.To this I repliedthat I was perfectly satisfied of their good intentions to serve me, and that Iconsideredmyselfundergreatobligationstothemforthetroubletheyhadbeenatonmyaccount.Ilearntafterwardsthattheyhadactuallyseizedandboundthedeserters but had been prevailed upon, by fair promises of their returningpeaceably to the ship, to let them loose: the deserters however, finding anopportunitytogetpossessionoftheirarms,againsetthenativesatdefiance.

Friday30.

ThisafternoonIpunishedoneoftheseamen,IsaacMartin,withnineteenlashesforstrikinganIndian.Thiswasatransgressionofsoseriousanatureandsuchadirect violation of my orders that I would on no account be prevailed on toforgiveit,thoughgreatintercessionwasmadebysomeofthechiefs.

Oreepyah and Moannah were not yet returned from Tethuroa. This place isresortedtobytheprincipalpeopleof thispartofOtaheiteatparticularseasonswhenfishareingreatplentythere.Itwasdescribedtometobeagroupofsmallkeys surrounded by a reef: their produce is chiefly coconuts and plantains.During the season breadfruit and other provisions are daily carried over fromOtaheite. Not less than a hundred sail of canoes were at Tethuroa when ourdeserterswerethere.

Teppahooandhiswifewerebecomemyconstantvisitors:hehadforsometimepastbeenill,andhadmadeOparrehisplaceofresidenceforthebenefitofoursurgeon'sadviceandassistance.Atthistimehecomplainedofahoarsenessandsore throat. Mr. Ledward, on examining him, discovered there had been twoholes in the roof of his mouth which, though healed, had the appearance ofhaving been large: the adjacent parts appeared sound, yet the surgeonwas ofopinionthattheywerecancerousandwouldintheendoccasionhisdeath.

Saturday31.

ThismorningIorderedallthecheststobetakenonshore,andtheinsideoftheshiptobewashedwithboilingwatertokillthecockroaches.Wewereconstantlyobliged tobeatgreatpains tokeep theshipclearofverminonaccountof theplants.By the help of traps and good catswewere freed from rats andmice.When I was at Otaheite with Captain Cook there were great numbers of ratsabout all the houses, and so tame that they flocked round the people at theirmealsfortheoffalswhichwerecommonlythrowntothem;butatthistimewescarceeversawaratwhichmustbeattributedtotheindustryofabreedofcatsleftherebyEuropeanships.

AfterbreakfastIwalkedwithTinahtoMatavaitoseethecattleandthegardens.Tinah had already taken so large a dose of the Ava that he was perfectlystupefied. Iddeah howeverwaswith us, and she is one of themost intelligentpersonsImetwithatOtaheite.WewentfirsttoPoeeno'shouseandsawthebullandcowtogetherinaveryfinepasture.Iwasinformedthatthecowhadtakenthe bull; so that if no untoward accident happens there is a fair chance of thebreed being established. In the garden near Poeeno's house many things hadfailed. The Indian cornwas in a fine state and I have no doubt but theywillcultivate itallover thecountry.Afig-treewasinaverythrivingway,asweretwovines,apineappleplant,andsomeslipsofashaddock-tree.Fromthisplacewe walked to the garden at Point Venus, but I had the mortification to findalmost everything there destroyed by the hogs. Some underground peas andIndiancornhadescaped,andlikewisethecaliloogreenandocraofJamaica.

Wereturnedtotheship,andafterdinnerIwasnotalittlesurprisedtohearTinahseriouslyproposethatheandhiswifeshouldgowithmetoEngland.Hesaidhewouldonlytaketwoservants;thathemuchwishedtoseeKingGeorgewhohewas surewould be glad to see him. Tinah andmany of his countrymenwerebecome extremely eager to get a knowledge of other countries, and werecontinuallyenquiringaboutthesituationsoftheislandswhichwetoldthemofintheseseas.ToquiethisimportunityIwasobligedtopromisethatIwouldasktheking'spermissiontocarrythemtoEnglandifIcameagain;thatthenIshouldbeinalargershipancouldhaveaccommodationsproperlyfittedup.IwassorrytofindthatTinahwasapprehensiveheshouldbeattackedbyhisenemiesassoonasourshipleftOtaheite,andthatiftheyjoinedtheywouldbetoopowerfulforhim.TheillnessofTeppahoo,withwhomhewasongoodterms,gavehimmuchuneasiness, Teppahoo'swife being a sister ofOtow's and aunt toTinah. Theyhave no children as has been before related, and if Teppahoo were to die hewouldbesucceededasEareeofthedistrictofTettahabyhisbrotherwhoisan

enemy to Tinah. I have on every occasion endeavoured tomake the principalpeople believe that we should return again to Otaheite and that we shouldrevengeanyinjurydoneinourabsencetothepeopleofMatavaiandOparre.

ThewifeofOedideeislikewiseanaunttoTinah,andsistertoOtow.HisnativeplaceisUlietea,wherehehassomeproperty,butwhichIimagineisnotofsuchconsequencetohimasthecountenanceofthechiefswithwhomheisconnectedatOtaheite.

CHAPTER10.TheShip'sCablecutintheNight.CoolnesswiththeChiefsonthatAccount.VisittoanoldLady.DisturbanceataHeiva.Tinah'sHospitality.AThieftakenandpunished.Preparationsforsailing.

1789.February.Tuesday3.

I was present this afternoon at a wrestlingmatch where a youngman, by anunluckyfall,puthisarmoutofjointattheelbow:threestoutmenimmediatelytookholdofhimand,twoofthemfixingtheirfeetagainsthisribs,replacedit.Ihad sent for our surgeon but before he arrived all was well, except a smallswellingofthemusclesinconsequenceofthestrain.Ienquiredwhattheywouldhavedoneifthebonehadbeenbrokenand,toshowmetheirpractice,theygotanumber of sticks and placed round aman's arm,which they boundwith cord.Thattheyhaveconsiderableskillinsurgeryisnottobedoubted.Ihavebeforementioned an instance of an amputated arm being perfectly healed andwhichhadeveryappearanceofhavingbeentreatedwithgreatpropriety.

Thepart of thebeachnearest the shipwasbecome thegeneral placeof resorttowards the close of the day. An hour before sunset the inhabitants began tocollect,andheretheyamusedthemselveswithexercisingthelance,dancing,andvariouskindsofmerriment,tillnearlydark,whentheyretiredtotheirhomes.Ofthischeerfulscenewewerespectatorsandpartakerseveryfineevening.

Friday6.

Anoccurrencehappenedtodaythatgavemegreatconcern,notonlyonaccountofthedangerwithwhichtheshiphadbeenthreatened,butasittendedgreatlytodiminish the confidence and good understanding which had hitherto beenconstantlypreservedbetweenusand thenatives.Thewindhadblownfresh inthenight, andatdaylightwediscovered that thecablebywhich the ship rodehad been cut near the water's edge in such a manner that only one strandremainedwhole.WhileweweresecuringtheshipTinahcameonboard.Icould

notbutbelievehewasperfectlyinnocentofthetransaction;neverthelessIspoketo him in a very peremptory manner, and insisted upon his discovering andbringing to me the offender. I was wholly at a loss how to account for thismaliciousact.Mysuspicionsfellchiefly,Imaysaywholly,onthestrangersthatcametousfromotherpartsoftheisland;forwehadoneveryoccasionreceivedsuchunreservedandunaffectedmarksofgoodwill fromthepeopleofMatavaiandOparre that inmyownmind I entirelyacquitted them.Theangerwhich IexpressedhowevercreatedsomuchalarmthatoldOtowandhiswife(thefatherandmotherofTinah)immediatelyquittedOparre,andretiredtothemountainsin themidst ofheavy rain, asdidTeppahooandhis family.Tinahand Iddeahremainedandexpostulatedwithmeontheunreasonablenessofmyangeragainstthem.Hesaidthathewouldexerthisutmostendeavourstodiscovertheguiltyperson,butitmightpossiblynotbeinhispowertogethimdeliveredup,whichwould be the case if hewas either of Tiarraboo,Attahooroo, or of the islandEimeo.That the attemptmight have beenmade asmuch out of enmity to thepeopleofMatavaiandOparreastome,everyoneknowingtheregardIhadforthem,andthatIhaddeclaredIwouldprotectthemagainsttheirenemies.AllthisIwasinclinedtobelieve,butIdidnotthinkpropertoappearperfectlysatisfiedlestTinah,whowasnaturallyveryindolent,shouldberemissinhisendeavourstodetect theoffender.Toguardasmuchaspossibleagainst futureattemptsofthiskindIdirectedastagetobebuiltontheforecastlesothatthecablesshouldbemoredirectlyunder theeyeof the sentinel; and I likewisegaveorders thatoneofthemidshipmanshouldkeepwatchforward.

In the afternoonOreepyah returned fromTethuroa.He toldme thatMoannahand himself had narrowly escaped being lost in the bad weather and thatMoannah had been obliged to take shelter at Eimeo. Several canoes had beenlostlatelyintheirpassagetoorfromTethuroa.Theoversettingoftheircanoesisnot the only risk they have to encounter, but is productive of another dangermoredreadful; for at such timesmanybecomeaprey to the sharkswhich areverynumerousintheseseas.IwasinformedlikewisethattheyweresometimesattackedbyafishwhichbytheirdescriptionI imaginetobethebarracoota,astheyattributetoitthesamepropensity.

SaturdaypassedwithoutmyseeinganythingofTinahthewholeday.

Sunday8.

ThenextmorningheandIddeahcametomeandassuredmethattheyhadmade

thestrictestenquiriesconcerningtheinjuryintendedusbuthadnotbeenabletodiscover any circumstance which could lead them to suspect who wereconcernedinit.ThiswasnotatallsatisfactoryandIbehavedtowardsthemwithgreatcoolness,atwhich theyweremuchdistressed,and Iddeahat lengthgavevent to her sorrow by tears. I could no longer keep up the appearance ofmistrustingthem,butIearnestlyrecommendedtothem,astheyvaluedtheKingofEngland's friendship, that theywould exert their utmost endeavours to findouttheoffenders,whichtheyfaithfullypromised.Ourreconciliationaccordinglytook place andmessengerswere sent to acquaintOtow andTeppahoo, and toinvitethemtoreturn.

It has since occurred to me that this attempt to cut the ship adrift was mostprobably the act of some of our own people; whose purpose of remaining atOtaheitemight have been effectually answeredwithout danger if the ship hadbeendrivenonshore.AtthetimeIentertainednottheleastthoughtofthiskind,nor did the possibility of it enter into my ideas, having no suspicion that sogeneralan inclinationorsostronganattachment to these islandscouldprevailamongmypeopleas to induce themtoabandoneveryprospectof returning totheirnativecountry.

AmessengercametomethisafternoonfromtheEareeofTiarrabou,thesouth-eastdivisionofOtaheite,withaninvitationformetovisithim.Iexcusedmyselfonaccountofthedistanceand,atTinah'srequest,sentbackbythemessengerahandsome present which I hope Tinah will get the credit of. I observed withmuchsatisfactionthatagreatpartofwhatTinahhadreceivedfrommehehaddistributed;tosomeoutoffriendshipandesteem,andtoothersfrommotivesofpoliticalcivility.

Tuesday10.

TeppahooandhisfamilyleftustodaytogotoTettaha,whereagrandheivawastobeperformed,atwhichtheirpresencewasrequired.

Wednesday11.

AsmallpartyofheivapeoplepassedthroughOparrethismorningintheirwaytoTettaha,wheretheyweregoingbyappointment.TheyhadthecivilitytosendmewordthatifIchosetheywouldstaytoperformashortheivabeforeme;andIimmediatelyattended.Itbeganbyadanceoftwoyounggirlstothemusicof

drums and flutes which lasted no long time; at the conclusion they suddenlydroppedalltheirdress,whichwasleftasapresentforme,andwentoffwithoutmy seeing them anymore. After this themen danced: their performancewasmoreindecentthananyIhadbeforeseen,butwasnotthelessapplaudedonthataccountbythenatives,whoseemedmuchdelighted.

After this entertainment IwentwithTinahand Iddeah topayavisit to anoldlady named Wanowoora, widow to Towah the late Earee of Tettaha, whoconductedtheexpeditionagainstEimeowhenCaptainCookwashere in1777.Theoldladyhadjustlandedandwefoundhersittingonthebeachbytheheadofhercanoe.WithTinahwasapriestandthreemen,whocarriedayoungdog,afowl, and twoyoungplantainboughs: thesewere intended for theoffering, orpresent, calledOtee.Tinah and his party seated themselves at about ten yardsdistance fromWanowoora andwere addressed by her in short sentences for afewminutes,andreceivedherOtee,whichwasexactlythesameashis.Tinah'spriest in returnmade a short prayer and his offeringwas presented to the oldlady.Tinahthenroseandwent toher,andembracedher inaveryaffectionatemanner;andshereturnedhiskindnesswithtearsandmanyexpressionswhichIcouldnotunderstand.Soonafterheconductedher to a shedandwe remainedwithhertillitwastimetogoonboardtodinner.Iinvitedhertobeofthepartybutsheexcusedherselfonaccountofageand infirmity.Tinahgavedirectionsforherandherattendants tobesuppliedwithwhatever theyhadoccasion for,andwewentofftotheship.

Friday13.

ThisforenoonTinahsenttoinformmethatmanystrangerswerearrivedfromallpartstobepresentatagrandheivawhichhehadpreparedincomplimenttome.I accordingly went on shore and found a great crowd of people collectedtogether. A ring was made at a little distance from our post, and Tinah andseveralotherchiefscametomeetme.Whenwewereallseatedtheheivabeganbywomendancing; afterwhich a present of cloth and a tawmeor breastplatewas laid beforeme. This ceremony being over themen began towrestle andregularitywasnolongerpreserved.OldOtowcametomeanddesiredIwouldhelp to put a stop to thewrestling as the people came fromdifferent districts,someofwhichwere ill disposed towardsothers.WhatOtowhadapprehendedwasnotwithoutreasonforinaninstantthewholewastumult:everymantooktohisarmsand,asIfoundmysingleinterferencecouldbeofnoservice,Iretiredto our post and ordered all my people there under arms. At the time the

disturbancebeganTinahandIddeahwereabsent:theirfirstcarewasforme,andIddeahcametoseeifIwassafeatthepost.Shehadadoublecoveringofclothroundherandherwaistwasgirdedwithalargerope.Idesiredhertostayundermyprotection:thisshewouldnotconsenttobutsaidshewouldreturnassoonasallwasover;andawayshewent.

I immediatelygaveordersfor twoguns tobefiredfromtheshipwithoutshot,whichhadagoodeffect:andasnochiefwasconcernedinthetumultbut,onthecontrary,allofthemexertedtheirinfluencetopreventmischief,everythingwassoonquiet andTinah and Iddeah returned to letmeknow that allwas settled.Theywentonboardwithsomeotherchiefsanddinedwithme.

AfterdinnerIwentonshorewithTinahandhisfriends,andIfoundthreelargehogsdressed,andaquantityofbreadfruitwhichhehadorderedtobepreparedbeforehewentonboard,andnowdesiredIwouldpresentthemtothedifferentparties that had come to see the entertainment: one to the chief people ofAttahooroo, one to the Arreoys, and a third to the performers of the heiva. Ipresented them according to his directions and they were received withthankfulnessandpleasure.ThisIlookeduponasveryhandsomelydoneonthepartofTinah,andIwasgladtoseethatitwasregardedinthesamelightbyhisguests.TheseinstancesofliberalitymakefullamendsforthelittleslipswhichIhaveformerlynoticedinTinah.Atthistimeadayseldompassedthathedidnotgiveproofsofhishospitalitybyentertainingtheprincipalpeoplethatcamefromdifferentpartsoftheislandtovisithim,ortoseetheship.Someofthechiefshecommonly invited to dine on board, andmade provision for others on shore.Scarce any person of consequencewent awaywithout receiving some presentfromhim.ThisIencouragedandwasgladitwasinmypowertoassisthim.Butbesides thepoliticalmotives that Ihavealluded to itwouldbeunjust toTinahnottoacknowledgethathisdispositionseemedimproved:hewasmoreopenandunreserved in his manners than formerly, and his hospitality was natural andwithoutostentation.

Monday16.

I was present this afternoon at a wrestling match by women. The manner ofchallengingandmethodofattackwasexactlythesameasamongthemen.Theonlydifference that I couldobservewasnot in favourof the softer sex; for inthese contests they showed less temper andmore animosity than I could haveimagined themcapableof.Thewomen, Iwas told,notonlywrestlewitheach

other but sometimeswith themen; of this I have never seen an instance andimagineitcanhappenbutseldom,asthewomeningeneralaresmallandbynomeansmasculine.Iddeahissaidtobeveryfamousatthisexercise.

Tuesday17.

IwalkedwithTinahtowardsthehillstoseehiscountryresidencewhichwasataveryneathouse,pleasantlysituatedandsurroundedwithplantations.FromthisplacewesawtheislandTethuroa.ThenextmorningIwenttoMatavaitolookaftertheIndiancornwhichIjudgedwouldbefullripeforgathering;butonmyarrival I found that thenativeshadbeenbeforehandwithme, thewholebeingtakenaway.ThisIwasnotatallsorryforasitshowsthattheyvalueittoomuchtoneglectcultivatingit.

Monday23.

Iddeahsentonboardforourdinnerstodayaveryfinetarropudding;andTinahbrought a bunch of bananas thatweighed 81 pounds, onwhichwere 286 finefruit:tenhadbrokenoffinthecarriage.Thetarropuddingisexcellenteatingandeasilymade:Ishalldescribethispieceofcookeryastheknowledgeofitmaybeuseful in theWest Indies.The tarrobeingclearedof theoutsideskin isgrateddown,andmadeupinrollsofabouthalfapoundeach,whichtheycoverneatlywith leaves andbake for near half anhour.Anequal quantityof ripe coconutmeat is likewise grated, fromwhich through a strainer the richmilky juice isexpressed.This juice is heatedbyputting smoothhot stones in thevessel thatcontains it, and the tarro is thenmixedwith it and kept constantly stirring topreventburningtillitisready,whichisknownbythecoconutjuiceturningtoaclearoil.

Wednesday25.

Iddeahwasveryuneasy todayon accountofheryoungest childbeing ill.ShewouldnotacceptofassistancefromoursurgeonbutsaidshehadsenttoTettahaforamanwhosheexpectedwouldcomeandtellherwhattodo.Thesephysicalpeoplearecalledtatarapaow.

Thursday26.

Thismorningamandiedofaconsumptionabouttwomilesfromourpost.Iwasinformedof itbyMr.Peckover, thegunner,who Ihaddesired to lookout for

suchacircumstance.IthereforewentaccompaniedbyIddeahinhopesofseeingthe funeral ceremony; but before we arrived the body was removed to theToopapow.Itlaybareexceptapieceofclothroundtheloinsandanotherroundtheneck: theeyeswereclosed: thehandswereplaced,oneover thepitof thestomachandtheotheruponhisbreast.Onafingerofeachhandwasaringmadeofplaitedfibresof thecoconut-tree,withasmallbunchof redfeathers.UndertheToopapowaholewasdug,inwhichattheendofamonththecorpsewastobe buried. The deceased was of the lower class; the Toopapow however wasneat,andofferingsofcoconutsandplaitedleaveslayontheground.

Thedead are sometimesbrought to theToopapow inwood coffins,which arenotshapedlikeoursbutaresimplyalongbox.ThiscustomIddeahinformedmetheylearntfromtheEuropeans,andisnotverycommon,asmakingplankisaworkofgreatlabour.

March.Monday2.

WhenIlandedthismorningIfoundtheinhabitantsthatlivedneartoushadlefttheir houses and retired towards themountains; andwas informed that in thenightawatercask,partofanazimuthcompass,andMr.Peckover'sbedding,hadbeenstolenfromthepostonshore;theknowledgeofwhichhadcausedageneralalarm.IsentamessagetocomplainofthisthefttoTinahwhodidnotcomenearme.About twohourselapsed,duringwhich time Iwentonboard tobreakfastand returned when I saw Tinah and Oreepyah with a number of people at ahouseatsomedistance;andsoonaftertheyallmarchedtotheeastward,passingclosebyourpost.Oedidee,whowaswithme,toldmethattheyhadintelligenceofthethief,andweregoneinquestofhim:andinlessthananhournewswasbroughtthattheyhadtakenhim.Shortlyafterthewholepartyappearedwiththewater-caskandcompass.Tinahhadholdof the thiefby thearmand, showinghimtome,desiredthatIwouldkillhim.Thebedding,hesaid,hehadnotheardof,butwouldgoinsearchof it. Iapplaudedhimfor thepainshehadtakeninthisbusiness,andexplainedwithsomesuccesstheinjusticeofstealingfromus:thatifanyofourpeoplecommittedtheleastoffenceagainstthemitdidnotpassunnoticed; and that friendship requiredon their part that thosewho injuredusshould not be protected by them. Tinah stopped me from saying more byembracingmeandthewholecrowdcriedoutTyomyty(i.e.goodfriend).Tinahthenleftmetoenquireafterthebedding,andIsenttheoffenderonboard,whomIpunishedwithasevereflogging.IwasgladtofindthismanwasnotofOparreorMatavai.

ThefinefruitcalledAveewasjustcomingintoseason:itwaslikewiseinseasonatthetimeofourarrivalinOctober.ThebreadfruittreesIhavenodoubtbearalltheyearround:wehaveseenascarcityofbreadfruitbuthaveneverbeenwhollywithoutit.Somefern-rootwasshowntomewhichinscarceseasonsisusedbythenativesasbread.Itbearsalongeven-edgedleafaboutaninchwide;thetastesomewhat resembled thatofayam. Iwas informedbyourpeople that in theirwalks they saw in many places patches of Indian corn just making theirappearance through the ground. This convinces me that the corn taken fromMatavaicouldnothavebeenbetterdisposedof.

Goatsarefrequentlyofferedforsale,butIratherdiscouragedthebuyingofthemfor fear of injuring the breed.The nativeswill not eat them, neitherwill theytastethemilk,andaskwithsomeappearanceofdisgustwhywedonotmilkthesows? I endeavoured to prevail onTinah and Iddeah to eat the goatsmilk bymixingitwithfruit,buttheywouldonlytryonespoonful.

Wehad begun tomake preparations for sailing, andTinah supplied uswith asufficientstockofwoodbyorderingtreestobebroughtdownfromthecountry.He had frequently expressed a wish that I would leave some firearms andammunitionwith him, as he expected to be attacked after the ship sailed, andperhaps chiefly on account of our partiality to him: I therefore thought it butreasonabletoattendtohisrequest,andIwasthemorereadilyprevailedonashesaid his intentionswere to act only on the defensive.This indeed seemsmostsuited tohis disposition,which is neither activenor enterprising. IfTinahhadspirit in proportion to his size and strength hewould probably be the greatestwarriorinOtaheite:butcourageisnotthemostconspicuousofhisvirtues.WhenIpromisedtoleavewithhimapairofpistols,whichtheyprefertomuskets,hetoldmethatIddeahwouldfightwithoneandOedideewiththeother.IddeahhaslearnttoloadandfireamusketwithgreatdexterityandOedideeisanexcellentmarksman.Itisnotcommonforwomeninthiscountrytogotowar,butIddeahisaveryresolutewoman,ofalargemake,andhasgreatbodilystrength.

Friday6.

I sentMr.Fryer themaster to soundTaowneharbour.Theknowledge thatweintended shortly to sail having spread among the natives a greatmany brokenirontoolswerebroughtfromallpartsof the islandtoberepairedatourforge;and thismorningamessenger arrived fromWaheatua, theEareeofTiarraboo,with several pieces of Spanish ironwhich he desired to havemade into small

adzes.Thisrequestwasofcoursecompliedwith.

CHAPTER11.ArrivalofanArreoyWomanfromTethuroa.APresentdeliveredbyTinahforhisMajesty.OtherOccurrencestotheTimeoftheShip'sDeparturefromOtaheite.

1789.March.

Fromthe5thtothe14thofthismonththewindblewconstantlyfrombetweenthe north-west and south-west with a great deal of rain. Thiswas the longestcontinuanceofwesterlywindswithoutinterruptionthatweexperienced.Onthe13thseveralcanoesarrivedhereandatMatavaifromTethuroa:inthesewerealargetribeofArreoys,andamongthemHuheineMoyere,thewifeofOreepyah,whoisanArreoywoman,andremainedatTethuroaafterOreepyahcameaway.OnherarrivalaceremonywasperformedcalledHooepippee,whichseemedtobe designed as a public visit to all their friends, who are collected on theoccasion.Inthisceremonytherewasnothingremarkable:theArreoymentooktheiropportunitytoplunderthewomenwhowerenearthem,andIddeahmadeapresentofsomeclothtoHuheineMoyere,andabakedhogtotheArreoys.

Friday13.

Afterthisceremonyapresentwasproducedfrommanyoftheprincipalpeoplefor youngOtoo, theEareeRahie,whichwas received by Iddeah,Tinah beingabsent. This present consisted of five hogs, and forty-eight baskets filledwithbreadfruit, coconuts, tarro, and different kinds of puddings. The baskets weredecoratedwithslipsofcloth,stainedwithvarietyofcoloursandcarriedby24men, each of whom had a pole on his shoulder, at each end of which was abasket.

I have seldom spoken of Otoo who was too young to have any share in themanagement of affairs, and with whom we were not permitted to have anyintercourse,exceptspeakingtohimnowandthenacrossariver;atwhichtimesIdid not neglect to send the children some little presents, so that they alwaysrejoiced to see me. I might have been admitted to a nearer acquaintance if Iwould have gone withmy shoulders uncovered, as his parents did, but this Ideclined.Thechildrendonotallliveunderthesameroof,thetwosisterseating

and sleeping in a separate house, though at other times they are generallytogether.

The islandTethuroamayveryproperlybecompared to someofourwatering-placesinEngland,producingasimilareffectuponthosewhovisitit.Manywhowenttherecoveredwithscurfreturnedplumpandfair,andscarcelikethesamepeople.ThisalterationforthebetterisinagreatmeasuretobeattributedtothediscontinuanceoftheAva,whichTethuroadoesnotproduce:thecoconuttrees,likewise,which supply themwith their only beverage, growing on low sandykeys and having their roots below the level of the sea may probably havequalities different from the coconuts ofOtaheitewhich,with a plenty of fish,thatatother times theyarenotaccustomedto,mustnodoubtcontribute to theamendmentdescribed.

Saturday14.

Iwasvisitedtodaybyaveryoldman,anuncletoTupia,thepersonwhowentfromtheseislandsintheEndeavourintheyear1769,andwhodiedatBatavia.Heappearedtobenear70yearsoldandwastreatedwithmuchrespectbythenatives. Hemade several enquiries concerning his nephew and requested thatwhenIcameagainIwouldbringhishair.AtthetimethatTinahmentionedtomehisdesireofvisitingEnglandIaskedwhataccountIcouldgivetohisfriendsifheshouldnotlivetoreturn;towhichherepliedthatImustcutoffhishairandcarryittothemandtheywouldbeperfectlysatisfied.

Monday16.

Onthe16thIwasinformedthatastopwasputtothesaleofhogsinthedistrictofTettaha.Teppahoo,theEareeofthatdistrict,toldmethattheyhadveryfewhogs left there, and that it was necessary for a certain time to prohibit everypersonfromkillingorselling,thattheymighthavetimetobreed.Ididnotthinkit reasonable tosolicitany indulgenceon thishead:myfriendsatMatavaiandOparre promised to supply us as long as we remained here, though we hadconsiderablythinnedtheirstock.Afterourdeparturethesamerestrictionwastotake place in these districts, and it being delayed on our account certainlydeservestoberegardedamongtheiractsoffriendshiptowardsus.

Asitwasgenerallyknownthatwewerepreparingtosailanumberofthenativesfrom other parts of the island were constantly with us, and petty thefts were

committedwhenever thenegligenceofourpeopleaffordedanopportunity:butnoattemptofanyconsequencewasmade.

Thursday19.

ThiseveningMr.Samwelmyclerkreturnedfromanexcursiontothemountains,having been two days absent. He described the hills to be well clothed withwood,exceptthetopsofthehighermountainswhichonlyproducedbushesandfern.Thebirdshesawwereblueparakeetsandgreendoves,exceptonewhichhe foundburrowing in thegroundandbrought tome.Thisbirdwasabout thesize of a pigeon, and proved to be awhite-bellied petrel of the same kind asthoseseeninhighlatitudes,whicharecalledshearwaters.Helikewisebroughtabranchof a plant like theNewZealand tea-plant, andwhich atVanDiemen'slandwehadmadeuseofforbrooms.FromthehillshesawtheislandsMaiteaandHuaheine,whicharesituatednearlyinoppositedirectionsfromOtaheiteandare70leaguesdistantfromeachother.

Friday27.

ForsomedayspastTinahhadbeenbusied ingetting twoparais,ormourning-dresses,made,whichhe intendedasapresent toKingGeorge.Being finishedtheywerethismorninghungupinhishouseasapublicexhibition,andalongprayer made on the occasion, the substance of which was that the King ofEnglandmightforeverremainhisfriendandnotforgethim.Whenhepresentedthe parais for me to take on board he could not refrain from shedding tears.Duringtheshortremainderofourstayherethereappearedamongthenativesanevidentdegreeofsorrowthatweweresosoontoleavethem,whichtheyshowedbyunusualkindnessandattention.

Webeganthisafternoontoremovetheplantstotheship.Theywereinexcellentorder: the roots had appeared through the bottom of the pots andwould haveshotintothegroundifcarehadnotbeentakentopreventit.

Theweatherwasconsiderablyalteredforthebetterandthetradewindappearedsettled.TherainyandbadseasonoftheyearmaybereckonedtobegintowardstheendofNovemberandtocontinuetillneartheendofMarch.Duringthistimethewindsarevariableandoftenwesterly,thoughweseldomfoundthemtoblowstrong in that direction. We likewise experienced frequent intervals of fineweather; but during thesemonths soopen a road asMatavaibay is not a safe

anchoring-placeforshipsthatintendremaininganylengthoftimeatOtaheite.

Tuesday31.

Todayall theplantswereonboard,being in774pots,39 tubs, and24boxes.Thenumberof breadfruit plantswere1015, besideswhichwehad collected anumberofotherplants.Theavee,whichisoneof thefinest-flavouredfruits intheworld.Theayyah,whichisafruitnotsorichbutofafineflavourandveryrefreshing.Therattah,notmuchunlikeachestnut,whichgrowsonalargetreeingreatquantities: theyaresinglyinlargepodsfromonetotwoinchesbroad,andmaybeeatenraworboiled in thesamemannerasWindsorbeans,andsodressedareequallygood.Theoraiah,whichisaverysuperiorkindofplantain.All these Iwas particularly recommended to collect bymyworthy friend, SirJosephBanks. I had also taken on board some plants of the ettow andmatte,withwhichthenativesheremakeabeautifulredcolour;andarootcalledpeeah,ofwhichtheymakeanexcellentpudding.

I nowmademy last presents to several ofmy friendswithwhom I had beenmostintimate,particularlytoTeppahoo.SeveralpeopleexpressedgreatdesiretogowithustoEngland.Oedidee,whowasalwaysverymuchattachedtous,saidhe considered it as his right, having formerly left his native place to sailwithCaptainCook. Scarce anyman belonging to the shipwaswithout a tyo,whobroughttohimpresents,chieflyofprovisionsforaseastore.

April.Friday3.

Tinahandhiswife,withhisparents,brothers, andsister,dinedwithme todayand,asImeanttosailearlythenextmorning,theyallremainedonboardforthenight.Theshipwascrowdedthewholedaywiththenatives,andwewereloadedwithcoconuts,plantains,breadfruit,hogs,andgoats.Intheeveningtherewasnodancingormirthonthebeachsuchaswehadbeenaccustomedto,butallwassilent.

Saturday4.

Atdaylightweunmoored:thestockofthebestboweranchorwassomucheatenbythewormsthat itbroke instowingtheanchor: thesmallbowerhadan ironstock, and in these voyages it is very necessary that ships should be providedwith ironanchorstocks.Athalf-pastsix therebeingnowindweweighedand,withourboatsandtwosweeps,towedtheshipoutoftheharbour.Soonafterthe

seabreezecame,andwestoodofftowardsthesea.

TheoutletofToahroahharbourbeingnarrowIcouldpermitonlya fewof thenatives tobeonboard:manyothershoweverattendedincanoes till thebreezecame,when Iwas obliged to leave them.We stood off and on almost all theremainderof theday.Tinahand Iddeahpressedmeverystrongly toanchor inMatavaibayandstayonenightlongerbut,asIhadalreadytakenleaveofmostofmyfriends,Ithoughtitbettertokeeptomyintentionofsailing.AfterdinnerIordered thepresentswhichIhadpreservedforTinahandhiswife tobeput inone of the ship's boats, and as I had promised him firearms I gave him twomuskets,apairofpistols,andagoodstockofammunition.Ithenrepresentedtothem the necessity of their going away, that the boatmight return to the shipbeforeitwasdark,onwhichtheytookamostaffectionateleaveofmeandwentinto the boat.One of their expressions at partingwas "Yourah no t' Eatua teeeveerah.""MaytheEatuaprotectyou,foreverandever."

AllthetimeweremainedatOtaheitethepictureofCaptainCook,atthedesireofTinah,waskeptonboardtheship.OndeliveringittohimIwroteonthebackthe time of the ship's arrival and departure,with an account of the number ofplantsonboard.

Tinahhaddesired thatIwouldsalutehimathisdeparturewith thegreatguns,whichIcouldnotcomplywithforfearofdisturbingtheplants;butasapartingtokenofourregardwemannedshipwithallhandsandgavehimthreecheers.Atsunset theboat returnedandwemade sail, bidding farewell toOtaheitewherefortwenty-threeweekswehadbeentreatedwiththeutmostaffectionandregard,and which seemed to increase in proportion to our stay. That we were notinsensible to their kindness the events which followed more than sufficientlyproves: for to the friendly and endearing behaviour of these people may beascribedthemotivesforthateventwhicheffectedtheruinofanexpeditionthattherewaseveryreasontohopewouldhavebeencompletedinthemostfortunatemanner.

To enter into a description of the island or its inhabitants I look upon assuperfluous. From the accounts of former voyages and the factswhich I haverelated the character of the people will appear in as true a light as by anydescription in my power to give. The length of time that we remained atOtaheite,withtheadvantageofhavingbeentherebefore,gavemeopportunitiesof making perhaps a more perfect vocabulary of the language than has yet

appeared;but Ihavechosen todefer it for thepresentas there isaprobabilitythatImayhereafterbebetterqualifiedforsuchatask.

WeleftOtaheitewithonlytwopatientsinthevenereallist,whichshowsthatthediseasehasnotgainedground.Thenatives say that it is of little consequence,and we saw several instances of people that had been infected who, afterabsenting themselves for 15 or 20 days,made their appearance againwithoutany visible symptom remaining of the disease. Their method of cure I amunacquaintedwith;buttheircustomarydietandmodeoflivingmustcontributetowardsit.Wesawagreatmanypeoplehoweverwithscrofuloushabitsandbadsores: these they denied to be produced from any venereal cause; and oursurgeonwasofthesameopinion.

The result of themeanof 50 sets of lunar observations takenbymeon shoregivesfortheLongitudeofPointVenus210degrees33minutes57secondseast.

CaptainCookin1769placesitin210degrees27minutes30secondseast.

In1777,hislastvoyage,210degrees22minutes28secondseast.

The tide in Toahroah harbour was very inconsiderable and not regular. ThegreatestrisethatIobservedwas11inches;butwhatwasmostsingularthetimeofhigh-waterdidnotappeartobegovernedbythemoon,itbeingatthehighesteverydaybetweennoonandtwoo'clock.Thevariablewindsandweatheratthistimeoftheyearhasnodoubtaninfluenceonthetides:onsomedaysscarceanyrisewasperceptible.

CHAPTER12.AttheIslandHuaheine.AFriendofOmaivisitstheShip.LeavetheSocietyIslands.AWater-spout.TheIslandWhytootackeediscovered.AnchorinAnnamookaRoad.OurPartiesonShorerobbedbytheNatives.SailfromAnnamooka.TheChiefsdetainedonboard.Partfriendly.

1789.April.Sunday5.

We steered towards the island Huaheine, which we got sight of the nextmorning.At noonwe brought to near the entrance ofOwharre harbour, it notbeingmyintentiontoanchor.Wecouldseeeverypartoftheharbourdistinctly,butmyattentionwasparticularlydirected to the spotwhereOmai'shousehadstood, no part ofwhichwas nowvisible. Itwas near three o'clock before anycanoes came off to us, for the people on shore imagined that the ship wascomingintotheharbour.Thefirstthatarrivedhadthreemeninit,whobroughtafewcoconuts.IenquiredaboutthechieforEareeRahie;andoneofthefellowswithgreatgravitysaidhewastheEareeRahie,andthathehadcometodesireIwould bring the ship into the harbour. I could not help laughing at hisimpudence: however I gave him a few nails for his coconuts and he left us.Immediatelyafteradoublecanoeinwhichweretenmencamealongside;amongthemwas a youngman who recollected and calledme bymy name. Severalothercanoesarrivedwithhogs,yams,andotherprovisions,whichwepurchased.MyacquaintancetoldmethathehadlivedwithourfriendOmai.HeconfirmedtheaccountthathadalreadybeengivenandinformedmethatofalltheanimalswhichhadbeenleftwithOmaithemareonlyremainedalive.HesaidthatOmaiandhimselfhadoftenrode together,andIobserved thatmanyof the islanderswhocameonboardhad the representationof amanonhorseback tattooedontheir legs. After the death of Omai his house was broken to pieces and thematerials stolen.The firearmswere atUlietea but useless. I enquired after theseedsandplantsandwasinformedthattheywerealldestroyedexceptonetree,but ofwhat kind thatwas I could notmake out from their description. Iwas

muchpressedtotaketheshipintotheharbour,andOmai'scompanionrequestedmetolethimgotoEngland.WhentheyfoundthatIwouldnotstopamongthemtheyseemedjealousofourgoingtoUlietea,anditappearedtogivethemsomesatisfactionwhenItoldthemthatIshouldnotgonearthatisland.

ThecanoeshadleftusandweweremakingsailwhenwediscoveredanIndianinthewaterswimmingtowardstheshore,whichinallprobabilityhewouldnothave been able to reach.We took him up and luckily another canoe comingalongside we put him in her. The people of the canoe said that themanwasinsane, but how he came to be swimming so far from the landwe could notconjecture.Atsixo'clockwemadesailandranallnight to thesouth-westandsouth-west by south, between the islands Huaheine and Ulietea. The nextmorning I altered the course, steering more to the westward for the FriendlyIslands.

Thursday9.

Onthe9thatnineo'clockinthemorningtheweatherbecamesquallyandabodyofthickblackcloudscollectedintheeast.Soonafterawater-spoutwasseenatnogreatdistancefromus,whichappearedtogreatadvantagefromthedarknessofthecloudsbehindit.AsnearlyasIcouldjudgeitwasabouttwofeetdiameterat theupperpart,andabouteight inchesat the lower. Ihadscarcemade theseremarks when I observed that it was advancing rapidly towards the ship.Weimmediatelyalteredourcourseandtookinallthesailsexcepttheforesail,soonafterwhichitpassedwithin tenyardsofourstern,makingarustlingnoisebutwithoutourfeelingtheleasteffectfromitsbeingsonearus.TherateatwhichittravelledIjudgedtobeabouttenmilesperhourgoingtowardsthewestinthedirectionofthewind.Inaquarterofanhourafterpassingusitdispersed.Ineverwas so near a water-spout before: the connection between the column, whichwashigher thanourmastheads, and thewater belowwasnootherwisevisiblethanbytheseabeingdisturbedinacircularspaceofaboutsixyardsindiameter,thecentreofwhich, fromthewhirlingof thewater round it, formedahollow;andfromtheouterpartofthecirclethewaterwasthrownupwithmuchforceinaspiraldirection,andcouldbetracedtotheheightoffifteenortwentyfeet.Atthiselevationwe lost sightof it andcould seenothingof its junctionwith thecolumnabove.Itisimpossibletosaywhatinjuryweshouldhavesufferedifithadpasseddirectlyoverus.MastsIimaginemighthavebeencarriedaway,butIdonotapprehenditwouldhaveendangeredthelossofaship.

Saturday11.

Aswesailedverynear the trackmade informervoyagesIhad little reason toexpectthatweshouldatthistimemakeanynewdiscovery:neverthelessonthe11th at daylight land was seen to the south-south-west at about five leaguesdistance,whichappearedtobeanislandofamoderateheight.Onthenorthpartwasaroundhill: thenorth-westpartwashighestandsteep: thesouth-eastpartslopedofftoalowpoint.

Thewindhadbeenwesterlysince theprecedingnoon,andat the timewesawthe land the ship was standing to the north-west. At six we tacked to thesouthward, and aswe advanced in that direction discovered a number of lowkeys,ofwhichatnoonwecountednine: theywereallcoveredwith trees.Thelarge island first seenhadamost fruitful appearance, its shorebeingborderedwith flat land, on which grew innumerable coconut and other trees; and thehigher grounds beautifully interspersed with lawns. The wind being light andunfavourableweendeavouredalldaybutwithoutsuccesstogetneartheland.Inthenightwehadaheavy squallwhichobligedus to clewupallour sails andsoonafteritfellcalm.

Sunday12.

Thewindswerelightandvariablealldaywithcalms.Attwointheafternoonwewere within three miles of the southernmost key and could see a number ofpeoplewithinthereefs.Shortlyafteracanoe,inwhichwerefourmen,paddledoff to us and came alongside without showing any signs of apprehension orsurprise. Igave thema fewbeadsand theycame into theship.Oneman,whoseemedtohaveanascendancyovertheothers,lookedabouttheshipwithsomeappearance of curiosity, but none of them would venture to go below. Theyaskedforsomeboiledfreshporkwhichtheysawinabowlbelongingtooneoftheseaman,anditwasgiventhemtoeatwithboiledplantains.BeingtoldthatIwas theEareeor chiefof the ship theprincipalperson cameand joinednoseswithme, and presented tome a largemother of pearl shell,which hungwithplaitedhairroundhisneck;thishefastenedroundmyneckwithsignsofgreatsatisfaction.

TheyspokethesamelanguageasatOtaheite,withverylittlevariationasfarasIcouldjudge.InasmallvocabularythatImadewhilstconversingwiththesemenonlyfourwordsoutoftwenty-fourdifferedfromtheOtaheite.Thenameofthe

large island they told me was Wytootackee, and the Earee was calledLomakkayah.Theysaidthattherewerenohogs,dogs,orgoatsupontheisland,norhadtheyyams,or tarro;but thatplantains,coconuts,fowls,breadfruit,andavees,were there in great abundance.Notwithstanding they said that no hogswere on the island itwas evident they had seen such animals; for they calledthembythesamenameasisgiventothematOtaheite,whichmademesuspectthattheyweredeceivingme.HoweverIorderedayoungboarandsowtobeputintotheircanoewithsomeyamsandtarro,aswecouldaffordtopartwithsomeof thesearticles. Ialsogavetoeachof themaknife,asmalladze,somenails,beads, and a looking-glass. The latter they examinedwith great curiosity; butwiththeironworktheyappearedtobeacquainted;callingitaouree,whichisthecommonnameforironamongtheislandswhereitisknown.

As theywere preparing to leave us the chief of the canoe took possession ofeverything that I had given to the others.One of them showed some signs ofdissatisfaction, but after a little altercation they joined noses and werereconciled. I now thought theywere going to leave the ship, but only two ofthemwentintothecanoe,theothertwopurposingtostayallnightwithusandtohave the canoe return for them in the morning. I would have treated theirconfidencewith the regard itmeritedbut itwas impossible to sayhowfar theshipmightbedrivenfromtheislandinthenight.ThisIexplainedtothemandtheyreluctantlyconsentedtoleaveus.Theywereverysolicitousthatsomebodyfromtheshipshouldgoonshorewiththem,andjustbeforetheyquittedustheygavemeawoodenspearwhichwas theonly thing, thepaddlesexcepted, theyhadbroughtwiththeminthecanoe.Itwasacommonlongstaffpointedwiththetoawood.

The island ofWytootackee is about ten miles in circuit; its latitude from 18degrees50minutes to18degrees54minutessouth,andlongitude200degrees19minuteseast.Agroupof smallkeys,eight innumber, lie to thesouth-east,fourorfivemilesdistantfromWytootackeeandasingleonetothewest-south-west;thesouthernmostofthegroupisinlatitude18degrees58minutessouth.Variationofthecompass8degrees14minuteseast.

ThepeoplethatcameofftousdidnotdifferinappearancefromthenativesofHervey'sIslands,seeninCaptainCook'slastvoyage,thoughmuchmorefriendlyandinoffensive in theirmanners.Theywere tattooedacross thearmsandlegs,but not on the loins or posteriors, like the people of Otaheite. From theirknowledge of iron they have doubtless communicationwith Hervey's Islands,

whicharenotmorethaneighteenleaguesdistantfromthem.

Inthenightabreezesprangupfromthesouthandwecontinuedourcoursetothewestward.

Saturday18.

Onthe18thatsunsetwesawSavageIsland,and in thenightpassedby to thesouthwardofit.

Tuesday21.

Ateleveno'clockintheforenoonofthe21stwesawtheislandCaowfromthemasthead,bearingnorth-westbywestthree-quarterswest.Thisislandisahighmountain with a sharp-pointed top, and is the north-westernmost of all theFriendlyIslands.Atnoonwesawitverydistinctlyfromthedeck,itbeingthennineteenleaguesdistantfromus.

Thursday23.

The wind being to the southward we could not fetch Annamooka, at whichislandI intendedtostop,before theeveningof the23rd,whenweanchoredinthe road in twenty-three fathoms, the extremesofAnnamookabearing east bynorthandsouthbyeast,ourdistancefromtheshorebeinghalfaleague.InthemiddleofthedayacanoehadcomeofftousfromtheislandMangoinwhichwas a chief named Latoomy-lange, who dined with me. Immediately on ouranchoringseveralcanoescamealongsidewithyamsandcoconuts,butnoneofthenativesoffered to comeonboardwithout first askingpermission.Asyet Ihad seen no person with whom I could recollect to have been formerlyacquainted. I made enquiries after some of our old friends, particularly thechiefs,but I foundmyselfnotsufficientlymasterof the language toobtain theinformationIwanted.

Friday24.

Ourstationbeinginconvenientforwateringatdaylightweweighed,andworkedmoretotheeastwardwhereweanchoredintwenty-onefathoms;theextremesofAnnamookabearingnorth85degreeseastandsouth33degreeswest;theSandybaysouth73degreeseast;ourdistancefromtheshorehalfaleague.Soundedallroundtheshipandfoundthegroundtobeacoarsecoralbottom,butwitheven

soundings.

BythistimesomelargesailingcanoeswerearrivedfromdifferentislandsintheneighbourhoodofAnnamooka;andanoldlamemannamedTepa,whomIhadknown in1777and immediately recollected, cameonboard.Twoother chiefswhose names were Noocaboo and Kunocappo were with him. Tepa havingformerlybeen accustomed toourmannerof speaking their language I found Icouldconversewithhimtolerablywell.HeinformedmethatPoulaho,Feenow,andTubow,werealiveandatTongataboo,andthat theywouldcomehitherassoonastheyheardofourarrival,ofwhichhepromisedtosendthemimmediatenotice.HesaidthatthecattlewhichwehadleftatTongataboohadallbred,andthattheoldoneswereyetliving.Heenquiredafterseveralpeoplewhowereherewith Captain Cook. Being desirous to see the ship I took him and hiscompanions belowand showed them the breadfruit andother plants, at seeingwhichtheyweregreatlysurprised.Imadeeachofthemapresent,andwhentheyhadsatisfiedtheircuriosityI invitedthemtogoonshorewithmeintheship'sboat.

ItookNelsonwithmetoprocuresomebreadfruitplants,oneofourstockbeingdeadand twoor threeothers a little sickly.Whenwe landed therewereabouttwo hundred people on the beach, most of them women and children. Tepashowedmealargeboat-housewhichhetoldmewemightmakeuseof,thinkingweshouldhaveapartyonshoreasourshipshadformerly.Iwentwithhiminsearch of water but could find no better place than where Captain Cook hadwatered,whichisaquarterofamileinlandfromtheeastendofthebeach.InextwalkedtothewestpointofthebaywheresomeplantsandseedshadbeensownbyCaptainCook;andhadthesatisfactiontoseeinaplantationclosebyabouttwentyfinepineappleplantsbutnofruit,thisnotbeingtheproperseason.Theytoldmethattheyhadeatenmanyofthem,thattheywerefineandlarge,andthatatTongataboothereweregreatnumbers.

WhenIreturnedtothelanding-placeIwasdesiredtositdownandapresentwasbroughtmewhichconsistedofsomebundlesofcoconutsonly.Thisfellshortofmyexpectations;howeverIappearedsatisfiedanddistributedbeadsandtrinketstothewomenandchildrennearme.

Numerous were the marks of mourning with which these people disfigurethemselves,suchasbloodytemples,theirheadsdeprivedofmostofthehair,andwhatwasworsealmostallofthemwiththelossofsomeoftheirfingers.Several

fineboys,notabovesixyearsold,hadlostboththeirlittlefingers;andsomeofthemenbesidesthesehadpartedwiththemiddlefingeroftherighthand.

Thechiefswentoffwithmetodinner,andIfoundabrisktradecarryingonattheshipforyams;someplantainsandbreadfruitwerelikewisebroughtonboardbut no hogs. In the afternoon more sailing canoes arrived, some of whichcontainednotlessthanninetypassengers.Wepurchasedeighthogs,somedogs,fowls,andshaddocks.Yamswereingreatabundance,veryfineandlarge;oneyam weighed above forty-five pounds. Among the people that came thisafternoon were two of the name of Tubow, which is a family of the firstdistinction among the Friendly Islands; one of them was chief of the islandLefooga;withhimandTepaIwentonshoretoseethewoodingplace.Ifoundavariety of sizable trees but the kindwhich I principally pitched uponwas theBarringtoniaofForster.IacquaintedTepawithmyintentionofsendingpeopletocutwood,whichmeetingwithhisapprobation,weparted.

Saturday25.

Onthe25thatdaylight thewoodingandwateringpartieswentonshore. Ihaddirected themnot to cut the kindof tree*which,whenCaptainCookwoodedherein1777,blindedforatimemanyofthewoodcutters.Theyhadnotbeenanhouronshorebeforeonemanhadanaxestolenfromhimandanotheranadze.Tepawasappliedto,whogottheaxerestoredbuttheadzewasnotrecovered.Intheeveningwecompletedwooding.

(*Footnote.ExcoecariaagallochaLinn.Sp.Pl.CalledintheMalaylanguagecajumataboota,whichsignifiesthethetreethatwoundstheeyes.)

Sunday26.

InthemorningNelsonwentonshoretogetafewplantsbut,noprincipalchiefbeingamongthepeople,hewasinsulted,andaspadetakenfromhim.Aboat'sgrapnelwas likewisestolenfromthewateringparty.Teparecovered thespadeforus,butthecrowdofnativeswasbecomesogreat,bythenumberofcanoesthat had arrived from different islands, that it was impossible to do anythingwhere there was such a multitude of people without a chief of sufficientauthoritytocommandthewhole.Ithereforeorderedthewateringpartytogoonboardanddetermined tosail, for Icouldnotdiscover thatanycanoehadbeensenttoacquaintthechiefsofTongatabooofourbeinghere.Forsometimeafterthe theftswerecommitted thechiefskeptaway,butbeforenoontheycameon

board.

At noon we unmoored, and at one o'clock got under sail. The two Tubows,Kunocappo,Latoomy-lange,andanotherchief,wereonboard,andIacquaintedthem that unless the grapnelwas returned theymust remain in the ship.Theywere surprised and not a little alarmed. Canoes were immediately despatchedafterthegrapnel,whichIwasinformedcouldnotpossiblybebroughttotheshipbefore the next day, as those who had stolen it immediately sailedwith theirprize to another island. Nevertheless I detained them till sunset, when theiruneasiness and impatience increased to such a degree that they began to beatthemselves about the face and eyes and some of them cried bitterly. As thisdistresswasmore than thegrapnelwasworth,and Ihadno reason to imaginethattheywereprivytoorinanymannerconcernedinthetheft,Icouldnotthinkofdetainingthemlongerandcalledtheircanoesalongside.Ithentoldthemtheywereatlibertytogo,andmadeeachofthemapresentofahatchet,asaw,withsome knives, gimblets, and nails. This unexpected present and the suddenchange in their situation affected them not lesswith joy than they had beforebeenwithapprehension.TheywereunboundedintheiracknowledgmentsandIhave little doubt but thatwe parted better friends than if the affair had neverhappened.

Westoodtothenorthwardallnightwithlightwinds.

Monday27.

Andonthenextdaythe27thatnoonwerebetweentheislandsTofoaandKotoo.Latitudeobserved19degrees18minutessouth.

Thus far thevoyagehadadvanced inacourseofuninterruptedprosperity,andhadbeenattendedwithmanycircumstancesequallypleasingandsatisfactory.Averydifferentscenewasnowtobeexperienced.Aconspiracyhadbeenformedwhichwastorenderallourpast labourproductiveonlyofextrememiseryanddistress.Themeanshadbeenconcertedandpreparedwithsomuchsecrecyandcircumspection that no one circumstance appeared to occasion the smallestsuspicionoftheimpendingcalamity.

CHAPTER13.AMutinyintheShip.

1789.April.Monday27.

WekeptneartheislandKotooalltheafternooninhopesthatsomecanoeswouldcomeofftotheship;butinthisIwasdisappointed.Thewindbeingnortherlyinthe eveningwe steered to thewestward to pass to the south of Tofoa. I gavedirections for thiscourse tobecontinuedduring thenight.Themasterhad thefirstwatch,thegunnerthemiddlewatch,andMr.Christianthemorningwatch.Thiswastheturnofdutyforthenight.

Tuesday28.

Justbeforesunrising,while Iwasyetasleep,Mr.Christian,with themasteratarms, gunner's mate, and Thomas Burkitt, seaman, came into my cabin, andseizing me tied my hands with a cord behind my back, threatening me withinstant death if I spokeormade the least noise: I however called as loud as Icouldinhopesofassistance;buttheyhadalreadysecuredtheofficerswhowerenotoftheirpartybyplacingsentinelsattheirdoors.Therewerethreemenatmycabindoorbesidesthefourwithin;Christianhadonlyacutlassinhishand,theothershadmusketsandbayonets.Iwashauledoutofbedandforcedondeckinmy shirt, suffering great pain from the tightnesswhichwith they had tiedmyhands.Idemandedthereasonofsuchviolencebutreceivednootheranswerthanabuse for not holding my tongue. The master, the gunner, the surgeon, Mr.Elphinstone,master'smate,andNelson,werekeptconfinedbelow;andtheforehatchwaywasguardedbysentinels.Theboatswainandcarpenter,andalso theclerk, Mr. Samuel, were allowed to come upon deck, where they saw mestandingabaftthemizenmastwithmyhandstiedbehindmybackunderaguardwithChristianattheirhead.TheboatswainwasorderedtohoistthelaunchoutwithathreatifhedidnotdoitinstantlyTOTAKECAREOFHIMSELF.

When theboatwasoutMr.Hayward andMr.Hallet, twoof themidshipmen,andMr.Samuel,were ordered into it. I demandedwhat their intentionwas ingivingthisorderandendeavouredtopersuadethepeoplenearmenottopersistinsuchactsofviolence;butitwastonoeffect:"Holdyourtongue,Sir,oryou

aredeadthisinstant,"wasconstantlyrepeatedtome.

Themasterbythistimehadsenttorequestthathemightcomeondeck,whichwaspermittedbuthewassoonorderedbackagaintohiscabin.

Icontinuedmyendeavourstoturnthetideofaffairs,whenChristianchangedthecutlass which he had in his hand for a bayonet that was brought to him and,holdingmewith a strong grip by the cord that tiedmy hands, hewithmanyoaths threatened to kill me immediately if I would not be quiet: the villainsroundme had their pieces cocked and bayonets fixed. Particular people werecalledontogointotheboatandwerehurriedovertheside;whenceIconcludedthatwith thesepeopleIwas tobesetadrift: I thereforemadeanothereffort tobringaboutachangebutwithnoothereffectthantobethreatenedwithhavingmybrainsblownout.

Theboatswainandseamenwhoweretogointheboatwereallowedtocollecttwine,canvas,lines,sails,cordage,aneightandtwenty-galloncaskofwater,andMr.Samuel got 150 pounds of bread,with a small quantity of rumandwine,also a quadrant and compass; but hewas forbidden on pain of death to toucheithermap,ephemeris,bookofastronomicalobservations, sextant, timekeeper,oranyofmysurveysordrawings.

Themutineershavingforcedthoseoftheseamenwhomtheymeanttogetridofintotheboat,Christiandirectedadramtobeservedtoeachofhisowncrew.Ithenunhappilysawthatnothingcouldbedonetoeffecttherecoveryoftheship:therewasnoone toassistme, andeveryendeavouronmypartwasansweredwiththreatsofdeath.

Theofficerswerenextcalledupondeckandforcedoverthesideintotheboat,while I was kept apart from everyone, abaft themizenmast; Christian, armedwithabuoyant,holdingmeby thebandage that securedmyhands.Theguardroundmehadtheirpiecescocked,butonmydaringtheungratefulwretchestofiretheyuncockedthem.

IsaacMartin,oneoftheguardoverme,Isawhadaninclinationtoassistme,andas he fed me with shaddock (my lips being quite parched) we explained ourwishestoeachotherbyourlooks;butthisbeingobservedMartinwasremovedfromme.Hethenattemptedtoleavetheship,forwhichpurposehegotintotheboat;butwithmanythreatstheyobligedhimtoreturn.

The armourer, Joseph Coleman, and two of the carpenters, McIntosh andNorman,were also kept contrary to their inclination; and they begged ofme,afterIwasasternintheboat,torememberthattheydeclaredtheyhadnohandinthetransaction.MichaelByrne,Iamtold,likewisewantedtoleavetheship.

Itisofnomomentformetorecountmyendeavourstobringbacktheoffenderstoasenseoftheirduty:allIcoulddowasbyspeakingtothemingeneral;butitwas tonopurpose,forIwaskeptsecurelyboundandnooneexcept theguardsufferedtocomenearme.

ToMr. Samuel I am indebted for securingmy journals and commissionwithsomematerial ship papers.Without these I had nothing to certify what I haddone, and my honour and character might have been suspected without mypossessingaproperdocumenttohavedefendedthem.Allthishedidwithgreatresolution, though guarded and strictly watched. He attempted to save thetimekeeper,andaboxwithmysurveys,drawings,andremarksforfifteenyearspast,whichwerenumerous,whenhewashurriedaway,with"Damnyoureyesyouarewellofftogetwhatyouhave."

ItappearedtomethatChristianwassometimeindoubtwhetherheshouldkeepthecarpenterorhismates;atlengthhedeterminedonthelatterandthecarpenterwasorderedintotheboat.Hewaspermittedbutnotwithoutsomeoppositiontotakehistoolchest.

Much altercation took place among the mutinous crew during the wholebusiness:someswore"I'llbedamnedifhedoesnotfindhiswayhome,ifhegetsanythingwithhim,"(meaningme)and,whenthecarpenter'schestwascarryingaway, "Damnmy eyes he will have a vessel built in a month."While otherslaughedatthehelplesssituationoftheboat,beingverydeepandsolittleroomfor those who were in her. As for Christian he seemed as if meditatingdestructiononhimselfandeveryoneelse.

Iaskedforarmsbuttheylaughedatme,andsaidIwaswellacquaintedwiththepeople among whom I was going, and therefore did not want them; fourcutlasseshoweverwerethrownintotheboatafterwewereveeredastern.

Theofficers andmenbeing in theboat theyonlywaited forme,ofwhich themaster at arms informedChristian,who then said: "Come, captainBligh,yourofficersandmenarenowintheboatandyoumustgowiththem;ifyouattempt

to make the least resistance you will instantly be put to death" and, withoutfurtherceremony,withatribeofarmedruffiansaboutme,Iwasforcedoverthesidewheretheyuntiedmyhands.Beingintheboatwewereveeredasternbyarope. A few pieces of pork were thrown to us, and some clothes, also thecutlasses I have already mentioned; and it was then that the armourer andcarpenterscalledouttometorememberthattheyhadnohandinthetransaction.Afterhavingundergoneagreatdealofridiculeandbeenkeptsometimetomakesport for these unfeeling wretches we were at length cast adrift in the openocean.

Ihadwithmeintheboatthefollowingpersons:

JohnFryer:Master.

ThomasLedward:ActingSurgeon.

DavidNelson:Botanist.

WilliamPeckover:Gunner.

WilliamCole:Boatswain.

WilliamPurcell:Carpenter.

WilliamElphinston:Master'sMate.

ThomasHayward,JohnHallet:Midshipman.

JohnNorton,PeterLinkletter:QuarterMasters.

LawrenceLebogue:Sailmaker.

JohnSmith,ThomasHall:Cooks.

GeorgeSimpson:QuarterMaster'sMate.

RobertTinkler:Aboy.

RobertLamb:Butcher.

Mr.Samuel:Clerk.

ThereremainedonboardtheBounty:

FletcherChristian:Master'sMate.

PeterHaywood,EdwardYoung,GeorgeStewart:Midshipmen.

CharlesChurchill:MasteratArms.

JohnMills:Gunner'sMate.

JamesMorrison:Boatswain'sMate.

ThomasBurkitt,MatthewQuintal,JohnSumner,JohnMillward,WilliamMcKoy,

HenryHillbrant,MichaelByrne,WilliamMusprat,AlexanderSmith,

JohnWilliams,ThomasEllison,IsaacMartin,RichardSkinner,

MatthewThompson:AbleSeamen.

WilliamBrown:Gardener.

JosephColeman:Armourer.

CharlesNorman:Carpenter'sMate.

ThomasMcIntosh:Carpenter'sCrew.

Inall25hands,andthemostablemenoftheship'scompany.

HavinglittleornowindwerowedprettyfasttowardsTofoa,whichborenorth-east about 10 leagues from us.While the shipwas in sight she steered to thewest-north-west, but I considered this only as a feint; forwhenwewere sentaway"HuzzaforOtaheite"wasfrequentlyheardamongthemutineers.

Christian the chief of themutineers is of a respectable family in the north ofEngland. This was the third voyage he hadmade with me and, as I found itnecessarytokeepmyship'scompanyatthreewatches,Ihadgivenhimanordertotakechargeofthethird,hisabilitiesbeingthoroughlyequaltothetask;andbythismeansthemasterandgunnerwerenotatwatchandwatch.

Haywood is also of a respectable family in the north ofEngland and a youngman of abilities as well as Christian. These two had been objects of myparticular regard and attention, and I had taken great pains to instruct them,having entertained hopes that as professionalmen theywould have become acredittotheircountry.

Youngwas well recommended and had the look of an able stout seaman: hehoweverfellshortofwhathisappearancepromised.

StewartwasayoungmanofcreditableparentsintheOrkneys,atwhichplaceonthereturnof theResolutionfromtheSouthSeasin1780wereceivedsomanycivilitiesthatonthataccountonlyIshouldgladlyhavetakenhimwithmebut,independentofthisrecommendation,hewasaseamanandhadalwaysborneagoodcharacter.

Notwithstanding the roughness with which I was treated the remembrance ofpastkindnessesproducedsomesignsof remorse inChristian.When theywereforcingmeoutoftheshipIaskedhimifthistreatmentwasaproperreturnforthemanyinstanceshehadreceivedofmyfriendship?heappeareddisturbedatmyquestionandansweredwithmuchemotion:"That,captainBligh,thatisthething;Iaminhell,Iaminhell."

AssoonasIhadtimetoreflectIfeltaninwardsatisfactionwhichpreventedanydepressionofmyspirits:consciousofmyintegrityandanxioussolicitudeforthegoodoftheserviceinwhichIhadbeenengagedIfoundmymindwonderfullysupported,andIbegantoconceivehopes,notwithstandingsoheavyacalamity,that I should one day be able to account to my King and country for themisfortune.Afewhoursbeforemysituationhadbeenpeculiarlyflattering.Ihada ship in themostperfectorder andwell storedwitheverynecessaryboth forserviceandhealth:byearlyattentiontothoseparticularsIhadasmuchaslayinmy power, provided against any accident, in case I could not get throughEndeavourStraits,aswellasagainstwhatmightbefallmeinthem;addtothistheplantshadbeensuccessfullypreservedinthemostflourishingstate:sothat

uponthewholethevoyagewastwo-thirdscompleted,andtheremainingparttoallappearanceinaverypromisingway;everypersononboardbeinginperfecthealth, to establish which was ever amongst the principal objects of myattention.

Itwill very naturally be askedwhat could be the reason for such a revolt? inanswer to which I can only conjecture that the mutineers had flatteredthemselveswiththehopesofamorehappylifeamongtheOtaheiteansthantheycouldpossibly enjoy inEngland; and this, joined to some female connections,mostprobablyoccasionedthewholetransaction.

ThewomenatOtaheite arehandsome,mildandcheerful in theirmanners andconversation,possessedofgreatsensibility,andhavesufficientdelicacytomakethemadmiredandbeloved.Thechiefsweresomuchattachedtoourpeoplethatthey rather encouraged their stay among them than otherwise, and evenmadethem promises of large possessions. Under these and many other attendantcircumstancesequallydesirable it isnowperhapsnotsomuch tobewonderedat,thoughscarcelypossibletohavebeenforeseen,thatasetofsailors,mostofthemvoidof connections, shouldbe ledaway; especiallywhen, in addition tosuchpowerfulinducements,theyimagineditintheirpowertofixthemselvesinthemidstofplentyononeofthefinestislandsintheworld,wheretheyneednotlabour,andwheretheallurementsofdissipationarebeyondanythingthatcanbeconceived. The utmost however that any commander could have supposed tohavehappened is that someof the peoplewouldhavebeen tempted to desert.But, if it should be asserted that a commander is to guard against an act ofmutinyandpiracyinhisownshipmorethanbythecommonrulesofservice,itisasmuchastosaythathemustsleeplockedupandwhenawakebegirdedwithpistols.

DesertionshavehappenedmoreorlessfrommostoftheshipsthathavebeenattheSocietyIslands;butithasalwaysbeeninthecommanderspowertomakethechiefs return theirpeople: theknowledge therefore that itwasunsafe todesertperhaps first led mine to consider with what ease so small a ship might besurprised,andthatsofavourableanopportunitywouldneveroffertothemagain.

Thesecrecyofthismutinyisbeyondallconception.Thirteenofthepartywhowerewithmehadalwayslivedforwardamongtheseamen;yetneithertheynorthemessmatesofChristian,Stewart,Haywood,andYoung,hadeverobservedany circumstance thatmade them in the least suspectwhatwas going on. To

such a close-planned act of villainy, my mind being entirely free from anysuspicion, it is notwonderful that I fell a sacrifice. Perhaps if there had beenmarinesonboardasentinelatmycabin-doormighthavepreventedit;forIsleptwiththedooralwaysopenthattheofficerofthewatchmighthaveaccesstomeonalloccasions,thepossibilityofsuchaconspiracybeingeverthefarthestfrommythoughts.Hadtheirmutinybeenoccasionedbyanygrievances,eitherrealorimaginary, Imusthavediscovered symptomsof theirdiscontent,whichwouldhaveputmeonmyguard:butthecasewasfarotherwise.ChristianinparticularIwas on themost friendly termswith: that very day hewas engaged to havedinedwithme,and theprecedingnightheexcusedhimself fromsuppingwithmeonpretenceofbeingunwell;forwhichIfeltconcerned,havingnosuspicionsofhisintegrityandhonour.

AcopyoftheDraughtfromwhichtheBounty'sLaunchwasbuilt.

CHAPTER14.ProceedintheLaunchtotheIslandTofoa.DifficultyinobtainingSuppliesthere.TreacherousAttackoftheNatives.EscapetoSeaandbearawayforNewHolland.

1789.April.

My first determinationwas to seek a supply of breadfruit andwater atTofoa,andafterwardstosailforTongataboo,andthereriskasolicitationtoPoulahotheking toequipourboatandgrantusa supplyofwaterandprovisions, soas toenableustoreachtheEastIndies.

The quantity of provisions I found in the boat was 150 pounds of bread, 16piecesofpork,eachpieceweighing2pounds,6quartsofrum,6bottlesofwine,with28gallonsofwater,andfouremptybarrecoes.

Fortunatelyitwascalmalltheafternoontillaboutfouro'clock,whenweweresofartowindwardthat,withamoderateeasterlybreezewhichsprungup,wewereabletosail.ItwasneverthelessdarkwhenwegottoTofoawhereIexpectedtoland,buttheshoreprovedtobesosteepandrockythatwewereobligedtogiveupallthoughtsofitandkeeptheboatundertheleeoftheislandwithtwooars,for therewas no anchorage.Having fixed on thismode of proceeding for thenight I served toeverypersonhalfapintofgrog,andeach took tohis restaswellasourunhappysituationwouldallow.

Wednesday29.

In themorning at dawn of daywe rowed along shore in search of a landing-place, and about ten o'clock we discovered a cove with a stony beach at thenorth-westpartoftheisland,whereIdroppedthegrapnelwithin20yardsoftherocks.Agreatsurfranontheshorebut,asIwasunwillingtodiminishourstockofprovisions,IlandedMr.Samuelandsomeothers,whoclimbedthecliffsandgotintothecountrytosearchforsupplies.Therestofusremainedatthecove,notdiscoveringanyotherwayintothecountrythanthatbywhichMr.Samuelhad proceeded. It was great consolation to me to find that the spirits of mypeople did not sink, notwithstanding our miserable and almost hopeless

situation.TowardsnoonMr.Samuelreturnedwithafewquartsofwaterwhichhe had found in holes; but he had met with no spring or any prospect of asufficientsupplyinthatparticular,andhadseenonlythesignsofinhabitants.AsitwasuncertainwhatmightbeourfuturenecessitiesIonly issuedamorselofbreadandaglassofwinetoeachpersonfordinner.

Iobservedthelatitudeofthiscovetobe19degrees41minutessouth.Thisisthenorth-westpartofTofoa,thenorth-westernmostoftheFriendlyIslands.

Theweatherwasfairbut thewindblewsostrongfromtheeast-south-east thatwe could not venture to sea. Our detention made it absolutely necessary toendeavourtoobtainsomethingtowardsoursupport;forIdeterminedifpossibletokeepour first stockentire.We thereforeweighedand rowedalong shore toseeifanythingcouldbegot;andatlastdiscoveredsomecoconuttrees;buttheywereonthetopofhighprecipicesandthesurfmadeitdangerouslanding:bothoneandtheotherwehowevergotthebetterof.Someofthepeoplewithmuchdifficultyclimbedthecliffsandgotabout20coconuts,andothersflungthemtoropes,bywhichwehauledthemthroughthesurfintotheboat.Thiswasallthatcouldbedonehere and, as I foundnoplace so safe as theonewehad left tospendthenightat, I returnedto thecoveand,havingservedacoconut toeachperson,wewenttorestagainintheboat.

Thursday30.

Atdaylightweattemptedtoputtosea;butthewindandweatherprovedsobadthat Iwasglad to return toour formerstationwhere,after issuingamorselofbreadandaspoonfulofrumtoeachperson,welanded,andIwentoffwithMr.Nelson,Mr.Samuel,andsomeothers,intothecountry,havinghauledourselvesup the precipice by long vineswhichwere fixed there by the natives for thatpurpose,thisbeingtheonlywayintothecountry.

Wefoundafewdesertedhutsandasmallplantainwalkbutlittletakencareof,fromwhichwecouldonlycollectthreesmallbunchesofplantains.Afterpassingthisplacewecametoadeepgullythat ledtowardsamountainnearavolcanoand,asIconceivedthatintherainyseasonverygreattorrentsofwatermustpassthroughit,wehopedtofindsufficientforouruseremaininginsomeholesoftherocks;butafteralloursearchthewholethatwecollectedwasonlyninegallons.Weadvancedwithintwomilesofthefootofthehighestmountainintheisland,onwhichisthevolcanothatisalmostconstantlyburning.Thecountrynearitis

covered with lava and has a most dreary appearance. As we had not beenfortunate inourdiscoveries, and sawnothing to alleviateourdistresses exceptthe plantains andwater above-mentioned,we returned to the boat exceedinglyfatigued and faint.When I came to the precipicewhencewewere to descendinto the cove Iwas seizedwith such a dizziness inmy head that I thought itscarcepossibletoeffectit:howeverbytheassistanceofNelsonandotherstheyatlastgotmedown,inaweakcondition.EverypersonbeingreturnedbynoonIgaveaboutanounceofporkandtwoplantainstoeach,withhalfaglassofwine.I again observed the latitude of this place 19 degrees 41 minutes south. Thepeoplewho remained by the boat I had directed to look for fish orwhat theycouldpickupabouttherocks;butnothingeatablecouldbefound:sothatuponthewholeweconsideredourselvesonasmiserableaspotoflandascouldwellbeimagined.

I could not say positively from the former knowledge I had of this islandwhetheritwasinhabitedornot;butIknewitwasconsideredinferiortotheotherislands,andIwasnotcertainbutthattheIndiansonlyresortedtoitatparticulartimes.Iwasveryanxioustoascertainthispointfor,incasetherehadbeenonlyafew people here, and those could have furnished us with but very moderatesupplies, the remaining in this spot to havemade preparations for our voyagewould have been preferable to the risk of going amongst multitudes, whereperhaps we might lose everything. A party therefore sufficiently strong Ideterminedshouldgoanotherrouteassoonasthesunbecamelower,andtheycheerfullyundertookit.

About two o'clock in the afternoon the party set out but, after sufferingmuchfatigue,theyreturnedintheeveningwithoutanykindofsuccess.

Attheheadofthecoveabout150yardsfromthewatersidetherewasacave;thedistanceacrossthestonybeachwasabout100yards,andfromthecountryintothecovetherewasnootherwaythanthatwhichIhavealreadydescribed.Thesituation secured us from the danger of being surprised, and I determined toremainonshoreforthenightwithapartofmypeoplethattheothersmighthavemoreroomtorestintheboatwiththemaster,whomIdirectedtolieatagrapnelandbewatchfulincaseweshouldbeattacked.Iorderedoneplantainforeachpersontobeboiledand,havingsuppedonthisscantyallowancewithaquarterofapintofgrog,and fixed thewatches for thenight, thosewhose turn itwaslaid down to sleep in the cave, before which we kept up a good fire yetnotwithstandingweweremuchtroubledwithfliesandmosquitoes.

May.Friday1.

Atdawnofdaythepartysetoutagaininadifferentroutetoseewhattheycouldfind, in the course of which they suffered greatly for want of water: theyhowevermetwithtwomen,awoman,andachild:themencamewiththemtothecoveandbroughttwococonutshellsofwater.Iendeavouredtomakefriendsof these people and sent them away for breadfruit, plantains, andwater. Soonafter other natives came to us; and by noon there were thirty about us, fromwhomweobtainedasmallsupply;butIcouldonlyaffordoneounceofporkandaquarterofabreadfruittoeachmanfordinner,withhalfapintofwater,forIwasfixedinmyresolutionnottouseanyofthebreadorwaterintheboat.

No particular chief was yet among the natives: they were notwithstandingtractable, and behaved honestly, exchanging the provisions they brought for afewbuttonsandbeads.Thepartywhohadbeenoutinformedmeoftheirhavingseenseveralneatplantations,sothatitremainednolongeradoubtoftherebeingsettled inhabitants on the island, for which reason I determined to get what Icould,andtosailthefirstmomentthatthewindandweatherwouldallowustoputtosea.

Iwasmuchpuzzledinwhatmannertoaccounttothenativesforthelossofmyship:Iknewtheyhadtoomuchsensetobeamusedwithastorythattheshipwasto join me, when she was not in sight from the hills. I was at first doubtfulwhetherIshouldtelltherealfactorsaythattheshiphadoversetandsunk,andthat we only were saved: the latter appeared to be the most proper andadvantageousforus,andIaccordingly instructedmypeople, thatwemightallagreeinonestory.AsIexpectedenquiriesweremadeabouttheship,andtheyseemed readily satisfied with our account; but there did not appear the leastsymptomof joyorsorrow in their faces,althoughI fancied Idiscoveredsomemarks of surprise. Some of the natives were coming and going the wholeafternoon,andwegotenoughofbreadfruit,plantains,andcoconutsforanotherday;butofwater theyonlybroughtusabout fivepints.Acanoealsocame inwith fourmenandbrought a fewcoconuts andbreadfruitwhich I bought as Ihaddonetherest.Nailsweremuchenquiredafter,butIwouldnotsufferanytobeshownastheywerewantedfortheuseoftheboat.

TowardseveningIhadthesatisfactiontofindourstockofprovisionssomewhatincreased, but the natives did not appear to have much to spare. What theybroughtwasinsuchsmallquantitiesthatIhadnoreasontohopeweshouldbe

abletoprocurefromthemsufficienttostockusforourvoyage.Atsunsetallthenatives left us inquiet possessionof the cove. I thought this agood sign, andmadenodoubtthattheywouldcomeagainthenextdaywithabettersupplyoffood and water, with which I hoped to sail without farther delay: for if inattempting toget toTongatabooweshouldbedriven to leewardof the islandsthere would be a larger quantity of provisions to support us against such amisfortune.

At night I served a quarter of a breadfruit and a coconut to each person forsupperand,agoodfirebeingmade,allbutthewatchwenttosleep.

Saturday2.

At daybreak the nextmorning I was pleased to find everyone's spirits a littlerevived,andthattheynolongerregardedmewiththoseanxiouslookswhichhadconstantly been directed towards me since we lost sight of the ship: everycountenance appeared to have a degree of cheerfulness, and they all seemeddeterminedtodotheirbest.

AstherewasnocertaintyofourbeingsuppliedwithwaterbythenativesIsentapartyamongthegulliesinthemountainswithemptyshellstoseewhatcouldbefound.In theirabsence thenativescameaboutusasIexpected,and ingreaternumbers;twocanoesalsocameinfromroundthenorthsideoftheisland.Inoneof them was an elderly chief called Maccaackavow. Soon after some of ourforaging party returned, and with them came a good-looking chief calledEgijeefow,orperhapsmoreproperlyEefow,EgijorEghee, signifyingachief.Toeachof thesemen Imadeapresentofanoldshirtandaknife,and I soonfound theyeitherhadseenmeorhadheardofmybeingatAnnamooka.Theyknew Ihadbeenwith captainCook,who they inquired after, andalso captainClerk.Theywerevery inquisitive toknowinwhatmanner Ihad lostmyship.During this conversation a young man named Nageete appeared, whom Iremembered to have seen at Annamooka: he expressed much pleasure at ourmeeting. I enquired after Poulaho and Feenow, who they said were atTongataboo;andEefowagreedtoaccompanymethitherifIwouldwaittilltheweather moderated. The readiness and affability of this man gave me muchsatisfaction.

This however was but of short duration for the natives began to increase innumberandIobservedsomesymptomsofadesignagainstus.Soonafterthey

attempted to haul the boat on shore, on which I brandished my cutlass in athreateningmannerandspoketoEefowtodesirethemtodesist,whichtheydidandeverythingbecamequietagain.Mypeoplewhohadbeeninthemountainsnow returned with about three gallons of water. I kept buying up the littlebreadfruitthatwasbroughttous,andlikewisesomespearstoarmmymenwith,havingonlyfourcutlasses,twoofwhichwereintheboat.Aswehadnomeansof improvingoursituation I toldourpeople Iwouldwait till sunset,bywhichtimeperhapssomethingmighthappeninourfavour:forifweattemptedtogoatpresentwemustfightourwaythrough,whichwecoulddomoreadvantageouslyat night; and that in themeantimewewould endeavour to get off to the boatwhatwehadbought.Thebeachwaslinedwiththenativesandweheardnothingbuttheknockingofstonestogether,whichtheyhadineachhand.Iknewverywellthiswasthesignofanattack.AtnoonIservedacoconutandabreadfruittoeachpersonfordinner,andgavesometothechiefs,withwhomIcontinuedtoappearintimateandfriendly.TheyfrequentlyimportunedmetositdownbutIasconstantlyrefused:foritoccurredbothtoNelsonandmyselfthattheintendedtoseize hold of me if I gave them such an opportunity. Keeping thereforeconstantlyonourguardweweresufferedtoeatouruncomfortablemealinsomequietness.

Afterdinnerwebeganby littleand little togetour things into theboat,whichwas a troublesome business on account of the surf. I carefully watched themotions of the natives,who continued to increase in number, and found that,insteadoftheirintentionbeingtoleaveus,firesweremade,andplacesfixedonfor their stay during the night. Consultationswere also held among them andeverything assuredmewe should be attacked. I sent orders to themaster thatwhenhesawuscomingdownheshouldkeeptheboatclosetotheshorethatwemightthemorereadilyembark.

Ihadmy journalonshorewithme,writing theoccurrences in thecaveand insending it down to the boat, it was nearly snatched away but for the timelyassistanceofthegunner.

ThesunwasnearsettingwhenIgavetheword,onwhicheverypersonwhowasonshorewithmeboldlytookuphisproportionofthingsandcarriedthemtotheboat.ThechiefsaskedmeifIwouldnotstaywiththemallnight.Isaid:"No,Ineversleepoutofmyboat;butinthemorningwewillagaintradewithyou,andIshallremaintilltheweatherismoderatethatwemaygo,aswehaveagreed,toseePoulahoatTongataboo."Maccaackavowthengotupandsaid:"Youwillnot

sleeponshore? thenMattie" (whichdirectlysignifieswewillkillyou)andheleftme.Theonsetwasnowpreparing;everyoneasIhavedescribedbeforekeptknocking stones together, and Eefow quitted me. All but two or three thingswere in the boat,when I tookNageete by the hand, andwewalkeddown thebeach,everyoneinasilentkindofhorror.

While Iwas seeing thepeople embarkNageetewantedme to stay to speak toEefow, but I found he was encouraging them to the attack, and it was mydetermination if they had then begun to have killed him for his treacherousbehaviour.Iorderedthecarpenternottoquitmetilltheotherpeoplewereintheboat.Nageete,findingIwouldnotstay,loosedhimselffrommyholdandwentoff, andwe all got into the boat except onemanwho,while Iwas getting onboard,quitteditandranupthebeachtocastthesternfastoff,notwithstandingthemasterandotherscalledtohimtoreturnwhiletheywerehaulingmeoutofthewater.

I was no sooner in the boat than the attack began by about 200 men; theunfortunate poormanwho had run up the beachwas knocked down, and thestonesflewlikeashowerofshot.ManyIndiansgotholdof thesternropeandwerenearhaulingtheboatonshore,whichtheywouldcertainlyhaveeffectedifIhadnothadaknifeinmypocketwithwhichIcuttherope.Wethenhauledofftothegrapnel,everyonebeingmoreorlesshurt.Atthis timeIsawfiveofthenativesabout thepoormantheyhadkilled,andtwoof themwerebeatinghimabouttheheadwithstonesintheirhands.

Wehadnotimetoreflectfortomysurprisetheyfilledtheircanoeswithstones,and twelve men came off after us to renew the attack, which they did soeffectuallyasnearlytodisableusall.OurgrapnelwasfoulbutProvidencehereassisted us; the fluke broke and we got to our oars and pulled to sea. Theyhowever could paddle round us, so thatwewere obliged to sustain the attackwithoutbeingabletoreturnit,exceptwithsuchstonesaslodgedintheboat,andin this I foundwewerevery inferior to them.Wecouldnotclosebecauseourboat was lumbered and heavy, of which they knew how to take advantage: Ithereforeadoptedtheexpedientofthrowingoverboardsomeclotheswhich,asIexpected, theystoppedtopickupand,as itwasbythis timealmostdark, theygaveovertheattackandreturnedtowardstheshoreleavingustoreflectonourunhappysituation.

ThepoormankilledbythenativeswasJohnNorton:thiswashissecondvoyage

withmeasaquartermaster,andhisworthycharactermademe lamenthis lossverymuch.HehasleftanagedparentIamtold,whomhesupported.

Ioncebefore sustainedanattackofa similarnaturewitha smallernumberofEuropeansagainstamultitudeofIndians:itwasafterthedeathofCaptainCookon the Morai at Owhyhee, where I was left by Lieutenant King. YetnotwithstandingthisexperienceIhadnotanideathatthepowerofaman'sarmcould throw stones from two to eight pounds weight with such force andexactnessasthesepeopledid.Hereunhappilywewerewithoutfirearms,whichtheIndiansknew;anditwasafortunatecircumstancethattheydidnotbegintoattackusinthecave;forinthatcaseourdestructionmusthavebeeninevitable,andweshouldhavehadnothingleftfor itbut tosellour livesasdearlyaswecould,inwhichIfoundeveryonecheerfullydisposedtoconcur.Thisappearanceof resolution deterred them, supposing that they could effect their purposewithoutriskafterwewereintheboat.

Taking this as a sample of the disposition of the natives there was but littlereason to expect much benefit by persevering in the intention of visitingPoulaho;forIconsideredtheirgoodbehaviourformerlytohaveproceededfromadreadofourfirearms,andwhich thereforewas likely tocease,as theyknewwewerenowdestituteofthem:andevensupposingourlivesnotindangertheboatandeverythingwehadwouldmostprobablybetakenfromus,andtherebyallhopesprecludedofeverbeingabletoreturntoournativecountry.

WesetoursailsandsteeredalongshorebythewestsideoftheislandTofoa,thewindblowingfresh fromtheeastward.Mymindwasemployed inconsideringwhatwasbesttobedonewhenIwassolicitedbyallhandstotakethemtowardshome:andwhenItoldthemthatnohopesofreliefforusremained(exceptwhatmight be found atNewHolland) till I came toTimor, a distance of full 1200leagues, where therewas aDutch settlement, but inwhat part of the island Iknewnot,theyallagreedtoliveononeounceofbreadandaquarterofapintofwater per day. Therefore after examining our stock of provisions andrecommending to them in the most solemn manner not to depart from theirpromise,weboreawayacrossaseawherethenavigationisbutlittleknown,inasmallboat twenty-three feet long fromstem tostern,deep ladenwitheighteenmen.Iwashappyhowevertoseethateveryoneseemedbettersatisfiedwithoursituationthanmyself.

Our stock of provisions consisted of about one hundred and fifty pounds of

bread, twenty-eight gallons of water, twenty pounds of pork, three bottles ofwine,and fivequartsof rum.Thedifferencebetween thisand thequantitywehad on leaving the ship was principally owing to our loss in the bustle andconfusionof theattack.A fewcoconutswere in theboatandsomebreadfruit,butthelatterwastrampledtopieces.

CHAPTER15.PassagetowardsNewHolland.IslandsdiscoveredinourRoute.OurgreatDistresses.SeetheReefsofNewHollandandfindaPassagethroughthem.

1789.May.

Itwasabouteighto'clockatnightwhenweboreawayunderareefedlugforesailand,havingdividedthepeopleintowatchesandgottheboatinalittleorder,wereturnedGodthanksforourmiraculouspreservationand,fullyconfidentofhisgracioussupport,Ifoundmymindmoreateasethanithadbeenforsometimepast.

Sunday3.

Atdaybreakthegaleincreased;thesunroseveryfieryandred,asureindicationofaseveregaleofwind.Ateight itblewaviolentstormand thesearanveryhigh,sothatbetweentheseasthesailwasbecalmed,andwhenonthetopoftheseaitwastoomuchtohaveset:butwecouldnotventuretotakeinthesailforwewereinveryimminentdangeranddistress,theseacurlingoverthesternofthe boat, which obliged us to bale with all our might. A situation moredistressinghasperhapsseldombeenexperienced.

Ourbreadwasinbagsandindangerofbeingspoiledbythewet:tobestarvedtodeathwasinevitableifthiscouldnotbeprevented:Ithereforebegantoexaminewhatclothestherewereintheboatandwhatotherthingscouldbesparedand,havingdetermined thatonly two suits shouldbekept for eachperson, the restwasthrownoverboardwithsomeropeandsparesails,whichlightenedtheboatconsiderably, and we had more room to bale the water out. Fortunately thecarpenterhadagoodchest in theboat, inwhichwesecuredthebreadthefirstfavourablemoment.Histoolchestalsowasclearedandthetoolsstowedinthebottomoftheboatsothatthisbecameasecondconvenience.

I serveda teaspoonfulof rum toeachperson (forwewereverywetandcold)with a quarter of a breadfruit, which was scarce eatable, for dinner: ourengagement was now strictly to be carried into execution, and I was fully

determinedtomakeourprovisionslasteightweeks, let thedailyproportionbeeversosmall.

AtnoonIconsideredourcourseanddistancefromTofoatobewest-north-westthree-quarterswest86miles,latitude19degrees27minutessouth.Idirectedthecourse to the west-north-west that we might get a sight of the islands calledFeejeeiftheylaidinthedirectionthenativeshadpointedouttome.

Theweather continued very severe, thewind veering from north-east to east-south-east.Thesearanhigherthanintheforenoon,andthefatigueofbalingtokeep the boat from filling was exceedingly great.We could do nothingmorethankeepbeforethesea,inthecourseofwhichtheboatperformedsowellthatInolongerdreadedanydangerinthatrespect.But,amongthehardshipsweweretoundergo,thatofbeingconstantlywetwasnottheleast.

Monday4.

Thenightwasvery cold andat daylightour limbswere sobenumbed thatwecouldscarcefindtheuseofthem.AtthistimeIservedateaspoonfulofrumtoeachperson,fromwhichweallfoundgreatbenefit.

ChartofBligh'sIslandsdiscoveredbyLt.WilliamBlighintheBounty's

Launch.aaTheTrackoftheLaunch.

ANDChartoftheNorthernPartoftheNewHebridesdiscoveredbyLt.William

BlighintheBounty'sLaunch.aaTheTrackoftheLaunch.

AsIhavementionedbeforeIdeterminedtokeeptothewest-north-westtillIgotmoretothenorthward,forInotonlyexpectedtohavebetterweatherbuttoseetheFeejee Islands,as Ihaveoftenunderstood from thenativesofAnnamookathat they lie in that direction. Captain Cook likewise considered them to benorth-west bywest fromTongataboo. Just before noonwe discovered a smallflat island of a moderate height bearing west-south-west 4 or 5 leagues. Iobservedour latitude tobe18degrees58minutessouth;our longitudewasbyaccount3degrees4minuteswestfromtheislandofTofoa,havingmadeanorth72degreeswestcourse,distance95miles,sinceyesterdaynoon.Idividedfivesmallcoconutsforourdinnerandeveryonewassatisfied.

Alittleafternoonotherislandsappeared,andataquarterpastthreeo'clockwecouldcounteight,bearingfromsouthroundbythewesttonorth-westbynorth,thosetothesouthwhichwerethenearestbeingfourleaguesdistantfromus.

Ikeptmycoursetothenorth-westbywestbetweentheislands,thegalehavingconsiderablyabated.Atsixo'clockwediscoveredthreeothersmallislandstothenorth-west, the westernmost of them bore north-west half west 7 leagues. Isteeredtothesouthwardoftheseislandsawest-north-westcourseforthenightunderareefedsail.

Servedafewbrokenpiecesofbreadfruitforsupperandperformedprayers.

The night turned out fair and, having had tolerable rest, everyone seemedconsiderablybetterinthemorning,andcontentedlybreakfastedonafewpiecesofyamsthatwerefoundintheboat.Afterbreakfastweexaminedourbread,agreatdealofwhichwasdamagedandrotten;thisneverthelessweweregladtokeepforuse.

I hadhitherto been scarcely able to keep any account of our run, butwenowequipped ourselves a little better by getting a log-line marked and, havingpractisedatcountingseconds,severalcoulddoitwithsomedegreeofexactness.

Theislandswehadpassedliebetweenthelatitudeof19degrees5minutessouthand18degrees19minutessouth,andaccordingtomyreckoningfrom3degrees17minutes to3degrees46minuteswest longitude from the islandTofoa: thelargestmaybeaboutsixleaguesincircuit;butitisimpossibleformetobeverycorrect. To show where they are to be found again is the most my situationenabledmetodo.ThesketchIhavemadewillgiveacomparativeviewoftheirextent.Ibelieveallthelargerislandsareinhabitedastheyappearedveryfertile.

AtnoonIobservedinlatitude18degrees10secondssouthandconsideredmycourseanddistancefromyesterdaynoonnorth-westbywesthalfwest94miles;longitudebyaccountfromTofoa4degrees29minuteswest.

FordinnerIservedsomeofthedamagedbreadandaquarterofapintofwater.

Aboutsixo'clockintheafternoonwediscoveredtwoislands,onebearingwestby south 6 leagues and the other north-west by north 8 leagues; I kept towindward of the northernmost and, passing it by 10 o'clock, I resumed ourcoursetothenorth-westandwest-north-westforthenight.

Wednesday6.

Theweatherwasfairandthewindmoderatealldayfromtheeast-north-east.Atdaylight a number of other islands were in sight from south-south-east to thewest and round to north-east by east; between those in the north-west Ideterminedtopass.Atnoonasmallsandyislandorkeytwomilesdistantfromme bore from east to south three-quarters west. I had passed ten islands, thelargest of which I judged to be 6 or 8 leagues in circuit. Much larger landsappeared in thesouth-westandnorth-north-west,betweenwhich Idirectedmycourse.Latitudeobserved17degrees17minutessouth;coursesinceyesterdaynoon north 50 degrees west; distance 84miles; longitudemade by account 5degrees37minuteswest.

Ourallowanceforthedaywasaquarterofapintofcoconutmilkandthemeat,which did not exceed two ounces to each person: it was received verycontentedlybutwesufferedgreatdrought.IdurstnotventuretolandaswehadnoarmsandwerelesscapableofdefendingourselvesthanwewereatTofoa.

To keep an account of the boat's run was rendered difficult from beingconstantlywetwith the seabreakingoverusbut, asweadvanced towards theland,theseabecamesmootherandIwasenabledtoformasketchoftheislands

whichwillservetogiveageneralknowledgeoftheirextentandposition.Thosewewere near appeared fruitful and hilly, someverymountainous and all of agoodheight.

Toourgreat joywehookeda fish,butweweremiserablydisappointedby itsbeinglostintryingtogetitintotheboat.

We continued steering to the north-west between the islands which by theeveningappearedofconsiderableextent,woodyandmountainous.Atsunsetthesouthernmostborefromsouthtosouth-westbywestandthenorthernmostfromnorth bywest halfwest to north-east half east.At six o'clockwewere nearlymidwaybetweenthemandabout6leaguesdistantfromeachshorewhenwefellinwith a coral bank, onwhichwe had only four feetwater,without the leastbreakon itor ruffleof thesea togiveuswarning. Icouldsee that itextendedaboutamileoneachsideofus,butas it isprobable that itmayextendmuchfurtherIhavelaiditdownsoinmysketch.

Idirected thecoursewestbynorthfor thenight,andserved toeachpersonanounceofthedamagedbreadandaquarterofapintofwaterforsupper.

As our lodgings were very miserable and confined for want of room Iendeavouredtoremedythelatterdefectbyputtingourselvesatwatchandwatch;sothatonehalfalwayssatupwhiletheotherlaydownontheboat'sbottomorupon a chest, with nothing to cover us but the heavens. Our limbs weredreadfully cramped forwe could not stretch themout, and the nightswere socold, and we so constantly wet, that after a few hours sleep we could scarcemove.

Thursday7.

Atdawnofdayweagaindiscovered landfromwest-south-west towest-north-west, and another island north-north-west, the latter a high round lump of butlittleextent:thesouthernlandthatwehadpassedinthenightwasstillinsight.BeingverywetandcoldIservedaspoonfulof rumandamorselofbreadforbreakfast.

Thelandinthewestwasdistinguishedbysomeextraordinaryhighrockswhich,asweapproachedthem,assumedavarietyofforms.Thecountryappearedtobeagreeablyinterspersedwithhighandlowland,andinsomeplacescoveredwithwood.Offthenorth-eastpartlaysomesmallrockyislands,betweenwhichand

anisland4leaguestothenorth-eastIdirectedmycourse;butaleecurrentveryunexpectedlysetusveryneartotherockyisles,andwecouldonlygetclearofitby rowing, passing close to the reef that surrounded them. At this time weobservedtwolargesailingcanoescomingswiftlyafterusalongshoreand,beingapprehensiveoftheirintentions,werowedwithsomeanxiety,fullysensibleofourweakanddefencelessstate.Atnoonitwascalmandtheweathercloudy;mylatitude is thereforedoubtful to3or4miles.Our course sinceyesterdaynoonnorth-westbywest,distance79miles;latitudebyaccount16degrees29minutessouth,and longitudebyaccount fromTofoa6degrees46minuteswest.BeingconstantlywetitwaswiththeutmostdifficultyIcouldopenabooktowrite,andIamsensiblethatwhatIhavedonecanonlyservetopointoutwheretheselandsaretobefoundagain,andgiveanideaoftheirextent.

All theafternoonwehad lightwindsatnorth-north-east: theweatherwasveryrainy,attendedwiththunderandlightning.Onlyoneofthecanoesgaineduponus,which by three o'clock in the afternoonwas notmore than twomiles off,whenshegaveoverchase.

If Imay judge from thesailof thesevessels theyareofa similarconstructionwith those at the Friendly Islands which, with the nearness of their situation,gives reason to believe that they are the same kind of people.Whether thesecanoes had any hostile intention against usmust remain a doubt: perhaps wemight have benefited by an intercourse with them, but in our defencelesssituationtohavemadetheexperimentwouldhavebeenriskingtoomuch.

I imagine these to be the islands called Feejee as their extent, direction, anddistancefromtheFriendlyIslandsanswers to thedescriptiongivenof thembythoseIslanders.Heavyraincameonatfouro'clock,wheneverypersondidtheirutmost tocatchsomewater,andwe increasedourstock to34gallons,besidesquenchingourthirstforthefirsttimesincewehadbeenatsea;butanattendantconsequencemadeuspassthenightverymiserablyfor,beingextremelywetandhaving no dry things to shift or cover us,we experienced cold and shiveringsscarcetobeconceived.Mostfortunatelyforustheforenoonturnedoutfairandwestrippedanddriedourclothes.Theallowance I issued todaywasanounceand a half of pork, a teaspoonful of rum, half a pint of coconutmilk, and anounceofbread.Therumthoughsosmallinquantitywasofthegreatestservice.A fishing-linewas generally towing from the stern of the boat but thoughwesawgreatnumbersoffishwecouldnevercatchone.

At noon I observed in latitude 16 degrees 4minutes south and foundwe hadmade a course from yesterday noon north 62 degreeswest distance 62miles;longitudebyaccountfromTofoa7degrees42minuteswest.

Thelandpassedyesterdayandthedaybeforeisagroupofislands,14or16innumber, lying between the latitude of 16 degrees 26 minutes south and 17degrees57minutessouth,andinlongitudebymyaccount4degrees47minutesto7degrees17minuteswestfromTofoa.Threeoftheseislandsareverylarge,havingfrom30to40leaguesofsea-coast.

In the afternoonwe cleaned out the boat and it employed us till sunset to geteverythingdryandinorder.HithertoIhadissuedtheallowancebyguess,butInowmadeapairofscaleswithtwococonutshellsand,havingaccidentallysomepistol-ballsintheboat,25ofwhichweighedonepoundor16ounces,Iadoptedone,*astheproportionofweightthateachpersonshouldreceiveofbreadatthetimes Iserved it. Ialsoamusedallhandswithdescribing thesituationofNewGuineaandNewHolland,andgavethemeveryinformationinmypowerthatincaseanyaccidenthappenedtomethosewhosurvivedmighthavesomeideaofwhattheywereabout,andbeabletofindtheirwaytoTimor,whichatpresentthey knewnothing ofmore than the name and somenot even that.At night Iservedaquarterofapintofwaterandhalfanounceofbreadforsupper.

(*Footnote.Itweighed272grains.)

Saturday9.

Inthemorningaquarterofapintofcoconutmilkandsomeofthedecayedbreadwasservedforbreakfast,andfordinnerIdividedthemeatoffourcoconutswiththe remainder of the rotten bread, which was only eatable by such distressedpeople.

AtnoonIobservedthelatitudetobe15degrees47minutessouth;coursesinceyesterdaynorth75degreeswestdistance64miles;longitudemadebyaccount8degrees45minuteswest.

IntheafternoonIfittedapairofshroudsforeachmast,andcontrivedacanvasweatherclothroundtheboat,andraisedthequartersaboutnineinchesbynailingontheseatsofthesternsheets,whichprovedofgreatbenefittous.

Thewindhadbeenmoderatealldayinthesouth-eastquarterwithfineweather;

butaboutnineo'clockintheeveningthecloudsbegantogather,andwehadaprodigiousfallofrainwithseverethunderandlightning.Bymidnightwecaughtabout twenty gallons of water. Being miserably wet and cold I served to thepeople a teaspoonful of rum each to enable them to bearwith their distressedsituation. The weather continued extremely bad and the wind increased; wespent a verymiserable nightwithout sleep except such as could be got in themidstofrain.Thedaybroughtnoreliefbut its light.Theseabrokeoverussomuchthattwomenwereconstantlybaling;andwehadnochoicehowtosteer,beingobligedtokeepbeforethewavesforfearoftheboatfilling.

Theallowancenowregularlyservedtoeachpersonwasone25thofapoundofbreadandaquarterofapintofwater,ateight in themorning,atnoon,andatsunset.TodayIgaveabouthalfanounceofporkfordinnerwhich,thoughanymoderate personwould have considered only as amouthful,was divided intothreeorfour.

The rain abated towardsnoon and I observed the latitude tobe15degrees 17minutessouth;coursenorth67degreeswestdistance78miles;longitudemade10degreeswest.

Thewindcontinuedstrongfromsouth-south-easttosouth-eastwithverysquallyweather and a high breaking sea, so thatweweremiserablywet and sufferedgreatcoldinthenight.

Monday11.

In themorningatdaybreakIserved toeverypersona teaspoonfulof rum,ourlimbsbeingsocrampedthatwecouldscarcemovethem.Oursituationwasnowextremelydangerous, the sea frequently runningoverour stern,whichkeptusbalingwithallourstrength.

Atnoonthesunappeared,whichgaveusasmuchpleasureasinawinter'sdayinEngland.Iissuedthe25thofapoundofbreadandaquarterofapintofwater,asyesterday. Latitude observed 14 degrees 50 minutes south; course north 71degrees west distance 102 miles; and longitude by account 11 degrees 39minuteswestfromTofoa.

Intheeveningitrainedhardandweagainexperiencedadreadfulnight.

Tuesday12.

At length the day came and showed to me a miserable set of beings, full ofwants,withoutanythingtorelievethem.Somecomplainedofgreatpainintheirbowels,andeveryoneofhavingalmostlosttheuseofhislimbs.Thelittlesleepwegotwasnowaysrefreshingaswewerecoveredwithseaandrain.Iservedaspoonful of rumat day-dawn, and the usual allowance of bread andwater forbreakfast,dinner,andsupper.

Atnoon itwasalmostcalm,nosun tobeseen,andsomeofusshiveringwithcold.Coursesinceyesterdaywestbynorthdistance89miles;latitudebyaccount14degrees 33minutes south; longitudemade13 degrees 9minuteswest.ThedirectionofourcoursewastopasstothenorthwardoftheNewHebrides.

The wet weather continued and in the afternoon the wind came from thesouthward, blowing fresh in squalls. As there was no prospect of getting ourclothes dried I recommended to everyone to strip andwring them through thesaltwater,bywhichmeanstheyreceivedawarmththatwhilewetwithraintheycouldnothave.

ThisafternoonwesawakindoffruitonthewaterwhichNelsontoldmewastheBarringtoniaofForsterand,asIsawthesameagaininthemorning,andsomemen-of-warbirds,Iwasledtobelievethatwewerenotfarfromland.

Wecontinuedconstantlyshippingseasandbaling,andwereverywetandcoldinthenight;butIcouldnotaffordtheallowanceofrumatdaybreak.

Wednesday13.

AtnoonIhadasightof thesun, latitude14degrees17minutessouth.Coursewestbynorth79miles;longitudemade14degrees28minuteswest.Allthisdaywewereconstantlyshippingwaterandsufferedmuchcoldandshiveringsinthenight.

Thursday14.

Freshgalesatsouth-eastandgloomyweatherwithrainandahighsea.Atsixinthemorningwesawlandfromsouth-westbysoutheightleaguestonorth-westbywest three-quarterswest six leagues,which soon after appeared to be fourislands, one of them much larger than the others, and all of them high andremarkable.Atnoonwediscoveredasmallislandandsomerocksbearingnorth-west by north four leagues, and another islandwest eight leagues, so that the

wholeweresixinnumber;thefourIhadfirstseenbearingfromsouthhalfeastto south-westbysouth;ourdistance three leagues from thenearest island.Mylatitude observedwas 13 degrees 29minutes south, and longitude by accountfromTofoa15degrees49minuteswest;coursesinceyesterdaynoonnorth63degrees west distance 89 miles. At four in the afternoon we passed thewesternmostisland.

Friday15.

At one in themorning another islandwas discovered bearingwest-north-westfive leagues distance, and at eight o'clockwe saw it for the last time bearingnorth-east seven leagues.Anumberofgannets,boobies,andmen-of-warbirdswereseen.

Theseislandsliebetweenthelatitudeof13degrees16minutesand14degrees10 minutes south: their longitude according to my reckoning 15 degrees 51minutesto17degrees6minuteswestfromtheislandTofoa.*ThelargestislandI judged to be about twenty leagues in circuit, the others five or six. Theeasternmostisthesmallestislandandmostremarkable,havingahighsugarloafhill.

(*Footnote.BymakingaproportionalallowancefortheerrorafterwardsfoundinthedeadreckoningIestimate the longitude of these islands to be from 167 degrees 17minutes east to 168 degrees 34minuteseastfromGreenwich.)

Thesightoftheseislandsservedonlytoincreasethemiseryofoursituation.Wewereverylittlebetterthanstarvingwithplentyinview;yettoattemptprocuringanyreliefwasattendedwithsomuchdangerthatprolongingoflife,eveninthemidst ofmisery,was thought preferable,while there remained hopes of beingable tosurmountourhardships.Formyownpart Iconsider thegeneral runofcloudyandwetweathertobeablessingofProvidence.Hotweatherwouldhavecaused us to have died with thirst; and probably being so constantly coveredwithrainorseaprotectedusfromthatdreadfulcalamity.

AsIhadnothingtoassistmymemoryIcouldnotthendeterminewhethertheseislands were a part of the New Hebrides or not: I believe them to be a newdiscoverywhichIhavesincefoundtruebut,thoughtheywerenotseeneitherbyMonsieurBougainvilleorCaptainCook,theyaresonearlyintheneighbourhoodof theNewHebrides that theymust be considered as part of the same group.Theyarefertileandinhabited,asIsawsmokeinseveralplaces.

Thewindwasatsouth-eastwithrainyweatherallday.Thenightwasverydark,not a star could be seen to steer by, and the sea broke continually over us. Ifounditnecessarytocounteractasmuchaspossibletheeffectofthesoutherlywinds to prevent being driven too near New Guinea, for in general we wereforcedtokeepsomuchbeforetheseathatifwehadnot,atintervalsofmoderateweather, steered a more southerly course we should inevitably from acontinuanceofthegaleshavebeenthrowninsightofthatcoast:inwhichcasetherewouldmostprobablyhavebeenanendtoourvoyage.

Saturday16.

In addition toourmiserable allowanceofone25thof apoundofbread and aquarterofapintofwaterIissuedfordinneraboutanounceofsaltporktoeachperson. I was often solicited for this pork, but I considered itmore proper toissueitinsmallquantitiesthantosufferittobeallusedatonceortwice,whichwouldhavebeendoneifIhadallowedit.

AtnoonIobservedin13degrees33minutessouth,longitudemadefromTofoa19degrees27minuteswest;coursenorth82degreeswest,distance101miles.The sun breaking out through the clouds gave us hopes of drying our wetclothes,butthesunshinewasofshortduration.Wehadstrongbreezesatsouth-east by south anddarkgloomyweatherwith stormsof thunder, lightning, andrain.Thenightwastrulyhorrible,andnotastartobeseen;sothatoursteeragewasuncertain.

Sunday17.

AtdawnofdayI foundeverypersoncomplaining,andsomeof themsolicitedextraallowance,whichIpositivelyrefused.Oursituationwasmiserable:alwayswet, and suffering extremecold in thenightwithout the least shelter from theweather. Being constantly obliged to bale to keep the boat from filling wasperhapsnottobereckonedanevilasitgaveusexercise.

The little rumwehadwas of great service:whenour nightswere particularlydistressing I generally served a teaspoonful or two to each person: and itwasalwaysjoyfultidingswhentheyheardofmyintentions.

Atnoonawater-spoutwasverynearonboardofus.Iissuedanounceofporkinadditiontotheallowanceofbreadandwater;butbeforewebegantoeateveryperson stripped and, having wrung their clothes through the seawater, found

much warmth and refreshment. Course since yesterday noon west-south-westdistance 100 miles; latitude by account 14 degrees 11 minutes south andlongitudemade21degrees3minuteswest.

Thenightwasdarkanddismal:theseaconstantlybreakingoverusandnothingbutthewindandwavestodirectoursteerage.ItwasmyintentionifpossibletomakeNewHollandtothesouthwardofEndeavourstraits,beingsensiblethatitwasnecessarytopreservesuchasituationaswouldmakeasoutherlywindafairone, thatwemight range along the reefs till an opening should be found intosmoothwater,andwethesoonerbeabletopickupsomerefreshments.

Monday18.

Inthemorningtherainabated,whenwestrippedandwrungourclothesthroughtheseawaterasusual,which refreshedusgreatly.Everypersoncomplainedofviolentpainintheirbones;Iwasonlysurprisedthatnoonewasyetlaidup.Thecustomaryallowanceofone25thofapoundofbreadandaquarterofapintofwaterwasservedatbreakfast,dinner,andsupper.

AtnoonIdeducedmysituationbyaccount,forwehadnoglimpseofthesun,tobe in latitude14degrees52minutes south; course sinceyesterdaynoonwest-south-west106miles;longitudemadefromTofoa22degrees45minuteswest.Sawmanyboobiesandnoddies,asignofbeingintheneighbourhoodofland.Inthenightwehadveryseverelightningwithheavyrainandwereobligedtokeepbalingwithoutintermission.

Tuesday19.

Verybadweatherandconstantrain.Atnoonlatitudebyaccount14degrees37minutessouth;coursesinceyesterdaynorth81degreeswest,distance100miles;longitudemade24degrees30minuteswest.With the allowanceof bread andwaterservedhalfanounceofporktoeachpersonfordinner.

Wednesday20.

Fresh breezes east-north-east with constant rain, at times a deluge. Alwaysbaling.

At dawn of day some ofmy people seemed half dead: our appearanceswerehorrible,and Icould looknowaybut Icaught theeyeof someone indistress.

Extremehungerwasnowtooevident,butnoonesufferedfromthirst,norhadwe much inclination to drink, that desire perhaps being satisfied through theskin.Thelittlesleepwegotwasinthemidstofwater,andweconstantlyawokewith severe cramps and pains in our bones. Thismorning I served about twoteaspoonfuls of rum to each person and the allowance of bread and water asusual. At noon the sun broke out and revived everyone. I found we were inlatitude 14 degrees 49 minutes south; longitude made 25 degrees 46 minuteswest;coursesouth88degreeswestdistance75miles.

All the afternoonwewere so coveredwith rain and salt water that we couldscarcely see.We suffered extremecold and everyonedreaded the approachofnight.Sleep, thoughwe longed for it, affordedno comfort: formyownpart Ialmostlivedwithoutit.

Thursday21.

Abouttwoo'clockinthemorningwewereoverwhelmedwithadelugeofrain.Itfellsoheavythatwewereafraiditwouldfilltheboat,andwereobligedtobalewithallourmight.AtdawnofdayIservedalargerallowanceofrum.Towardsnoontherainabatedandthesunshone,butweweremiserablycoldandwet,theseabreakingconstantlyoverussothat,notwithstandingtheheavyrain,wehadnot been able to add to our stock of fresh water. Latitude by observation 14degrees 29 minutes south, and longitude made by account from Tofoa 27degrees25minuteswest;coursesinceyesterdaynoonnorth78degreeswest99miles.InowconsideredmyselfnearlyonameridianwiththeeastpartofNewGuinea.

Friday22.

Strong gales from east-south-east to south-south-east, a high sea, and darkdismalnight.

Our situation this daywas extremely calamitous.Wewereobliged to take thecourseof thesea, runningrightbefore itandwatchingwith theutmostcareastheleasterrorinthehelmwouldinamomenthavebeenourdestruction.

Atnoonitblewveryhardandthefoamof theseakeptrunningoveroursternandquarters;Ihowevergotproppedupandmadeanobservationofthelatitudein 14 degrees 17 minutes south; course north 85 degrees west distance 130miles;longitudemade29degrees38minuteswest.

Themiserywesufferedthisnightexceededthepreceding.Theseaflewoveruswithgreatforceandkeptusbalingwithhorrorandanxiety.

Saturday23.

AtdawnofdayIfoundeveryoneinamostdistressedcondition,andIbegantofearthatanothersuchnightwouldputanendtothelivesofseveralwhoseemedno longer able to support their sufferings. I served an allowance of twoteaspoonfulsofrum,afterdrinkingwhich,havingwrungourclothesandtakenourbreakfastofbreadandwater,webecamealittlerefreshed.

Towardsnoontheweatherbecamefair,butwithverylittleabatementofthegaleandthesearemainedequallyhigh.WithsomedifficultyIobservedthelatitudetobe13degrees44minutessouth:coursesinceyesterdaynoonnorth74degreeswest, distance 116 miles; longitude made 31 degrees 32 minutes west fromTofoa.

Thewindmoderatedintheeveningandtheweatherlookedmuchbetter,whichrejoicedallhandssothattheyatetheirscantyallowancewithmoresatisfactionthanforsometimepast.Thenightalsowasfairbut,beingalwayswetwiththesea,wesufferedmuchfromthecold.

Sunday24.

Afinemorning,Ihadthepleasuretosee,producedsomecheerfulcountenancesand,thefirsttimefor15dayspast,weexperiencedcomfortfromthewarmthofthe sun.Westrippedandhungourclothesup todry,whichwereby this timebecomesothreadbarethattheywouldnotkeepouteitherwetorcold.

At noon I observed in latitude 13 degrees 33 minutes south; longitude byaccountfromTofoa33degrees28minuteswest;coursenorth84degreeswest,distance 114miles.With the usual allowance of bread andwater for dinner Iservedanounceofporktoeachperson.Thisafternoonwehadmanybirdsaboutuswhichareneverseenfarfromland,suchasboobiesandnoddies.

ALLOWANCELESSENED.

As the sea began to run fair, and we shipped but little water, I took theopportunitytoexamineintothestateofourbreadandfoundthat,accordingtothe present mode of issuing, there was a sufficient quantity remaining for 29

daysallowance,bywhichtimeIhopedweshouldbeabletoreachTimor.Butasthiswasveryuncertainanditwaspossiblethat,afterall,wemightbeobligedtogo to Java, I determined to proportion the allowance so as tomake our stockholdoutsixweeks.Iwasapprehensivethatthiswouldbeillreceived,andthatitwouldrequiremyutmostresolutiontoenforceitfor,smallasthequantitywaswhich I intended to take away for our future good, yet itmight appear tomypeople like robbing them of life, and some, who were less patient than theircompanions,Iexpectedwouldveryillbrookit.Howeveronmyrepresentingthenecessityofguardingagainstdelaysthatmightbeoccasionedinourvoyagebycontrarywinds,orothercauses,andpromisingtoenlargeupontheallowanceaswegoton,theycheerfullyagreedtomyproposal.Itwasaccordinglysettledthateverypersonshouldreceiveone25thofapoundofbreadforbreakfast,andthesamequantityfordinner,sothatbyomittingtheproportionforsupper,wehad43daysallowance.

Monday25.

Atnoonsomenoddiescamesoneartousthatoneofthemwascaughtbyhand.Thisbirdwasaboutthesizeofasmallpigeon.Idivideditwithitsentrailsinto18portions,andbyawell-knownmethodatseaofWhoshallhavethis?*itwasdistributedwith theallowanceofbreadandwater fordinner,andateupbonesandall,withsaltwaterforsauce.Iobservedthelatitude13degrees32minutessouth; longitude made 35 degrees 19 minutes west; course north 89 degreeswest,distance108miles.

(*Footnote.Onepersonturnshisbackontheobjectthatistobedivided:anotherthenpointsseparatelytotheportions,andeachofthemaskingaloud,"Whoshallhavethis?"towhichthefirstanswersbynaming somebody. This impartialmethod of division gives everyman an equal chance of the bestshare.)

Intheeveningseveralboobiesflyingveryneartouswehadthegoodfortunetocatchoneofthem.Thisbirdisaslargeasaduck:likethenoddyithasreceiveditsnamefromseamenforsufferingitselftobecaughtonthemastsandyardsofships.Theyare themostpresumptiveproofsofbeing in theneighbourhoodoflandofanyseafowlweareacquaintedwith.Idirectedthebirdtobekilledforsupper, and the blood to be given to three of the people who were the mostdistressedforwantoffood.Thebody,withtheentrails,beak,andfeet,Idividedinto18shares,andwithanallowanceofbread,whichImadeameritofgranting,wemadeagoodsupper,comparedwithourusualfare.

Tuesday26.

Freshbreezesfromthesouth-eastwithfineweather.Inthemorningwecaughtanother booby so that Providence appeared to be relieving our wants in anextraordinary manner. Towards noon we passed a great many pieces of thebranches of trees, some of which appeared to have been no long time in thewater.Ihadagoodobservationforthelatitude,andfoundoursituationtobein13 degrees 41minutes south; longitude by account fromTofoa 37 degrees 13minutes west; course south 85 degrees west, 112 miles. The people wereoverjoyed at the addition to their dinner which was distributed in the samemanner as on the preceding evening, giving the blood to thosewhowere themostinwantoffood.

Tomakethebreadalittlesavourymostofthepeoplefrequentlydippeditinsaltwater;butIgenerallybrokemineintosmallpiecesandateitinmyallowanceofwater, out of a coconut shellwith a spoon, economically avoiding to take toolargeapieceatatime,sothatIwasaslongatdinnerasifithadbeenamuchmoreplentifulmeal.

The weather was now serene, which nevertheless was not without itsinconveniences,forwebegantofeeldistressofadifferentkindfromthatwhichwehad latelybeenaccustomed tosuffer.Theheatof thesunwassopowerfulthatseveralofthepeoplewereseizedwithalanguorandfaintnesswhichmadelife indifferent.Wewere so fortunate as to catch two boobies in the evening:theirstomachscontainedseveral flying-fishandsmallcuttlefish,allofwhichIsavedtobedividedfordinnerthenextday.

Wednesday27.

Afreshbreezeateast-south-eastwithfairweather.Wepassedmuchdriftwoodthisforenoonandsawmanybirds;IthereforedidnothesitatetopronouncethatwewerenearthereefsofNewHolland.FrommyrecollectionofCaptainCook'ssurveyof thiscoastIconsideredthedirectionof it tobenorth-west,andIwastherefore satisfied that,with thewind to the southwardofeast, I couldalwaysclearanydangers.

At noon I observed in latitude 13 degrees 26 minutes south; course sinceyesterdaynorth82degreeswest,distance109miles;longitudemade39degrees4minutes.Afterwritingmyaccount Idivided the twobirdswith theirentrails

and the contents of theirmaws into 18 portions and, as the prize was a veryvaluableoneitwasdividedasbefore,bycallingoutWhoshallhavethis?sothattoday,withtheallowanceofa25thofapoundofbreadatbreakfast,andanotherat dinner, with the proportion of water, I was happy to see that every personthoughthehadfeasted.

In theeveningwesawagannet; and theclouds remainedso fixed in thewestthat Ihad littledoubtofourbeingnear the land.Thepeople,after taking theirallowance of water for supper, amused themselves with conversing on theprobabilityofwhatweshouldfind.

Thursday28.

Atoneinthemorningthepersonatthehelmheardthesoundofbreakers,andInosoonerliftedupmyheadthanIsawthemcloseunderourlee,notmorethanaquarterofamiledistantfromus.Iimmediatelyhauledonawindtothenorth-north-eastandintenminutestimewecouldneitherseenorhearthem.

I have already mentioned my reason for making New Holland so far to thesouthward:forIneverdoubtedofnumerousopeningsinthereefthroughwhichIcouldhaveaccesstotheshoreand,knowingtheinclinationofthecoasttobetothenorth-westandthewindmostlyto thesouthwardofeast,Icouldwitheaserange such a barrier of reefs till I should find a passage, which now becameabsolutelynecessary,withoutamoment's lossof time.Theideaofgettingintosmoothwaterandfindingrefreshmentskeptmypeople'sspiritsup:theirjoywasverygreat afterwehadgot clearof thebreakers towhichwehad approachedmuchnearerthanIthoughtwaspossible,withoutfirstdiscoveringthem.

Friday29.

Inthemorningatdaylight,wecouldseenothingofthelandorofthereefs.Weboreawayagainandatnineo'clocksawthereefs.Theseabrokefuriouslyovereverypart,andwehadnosoonergotneartothemthanthewindcameateast,sothatwecouldonly liealong the lineof thebreakers,withinwhichwesawthewatersosmooththateverypersonalreadyanticipatedtheheart-feltsatisfactionhe should receive as soonaswecouldgetwithin them. I now foundwewereembayed for we could not lie clear with the sails, the wind having backedagainst us; and the sea set in soheavy towards the reef that our situationwasbecomeunsafe.Wecouldeffectbutlittlewiththeoars,havingscarcestrengthto

pull them, and I began to apprehend that we should be obliged to attemptpushingoverthereef.EventhisIdidnotdespairofeffectingwithsuccesswhenhappilywediscovered a break in the reef, about onemile fromus, and at thesametimeanislandofamoderateheightwithinit,nearlyinthesamedirection,bearingwesthalfnorth.Ienteredthepassagewithastrongstreamrunningtothewestwardandfounditaboutaquarterofamilebroad,witheveryappearanceofdeepwater.

On the outside the reef inclined to the north-east for a few miles, and fromthence to the north-west: on the south side of the entrance it inclined to thesouth-south-westasfarasIcouldseeit,andIconjecturethatasimilarpassageto this which we now entered may be found near the breakers that I firstdiscoveredwhichare23milessouthofthischannel.

IdidnotrecollectwhatlatitudeProvidentialchannel*liesin,butIconsideredittobewithinafewmilesofthis,whichissituatein12degrees51minutessouthlatitude.

(*Footnote. Providential Channel is laid down by Captain Cook in 12 degrees 34 minutes south,longitude143degrees33minuteseast.)

BeingnowhappilywithinthereefsandinsmoothwaterIendeavouredtokeepnear them to try for fish,but the tide setus to thenorth-west, I thereforeboreawayinthatdirectionand,havingpromisedtolandonthefirstconvenientspotwecouldfind,allourpasthardshipsseemedalreadytobeforgotten.

At noon I had a good observation by which our latitude was 12 degrees 46minutessouth,whencetheforegoingsituationsmaybeconsideredasdeterminedwith some exactness. The island first seen bore west-south-west five leagues.This,whichIhavecalledtheislandDirection,willinfairweatheralwaysshowthechannel,fromwhichitbearsduewest,andmaybeseenassoonasthereefsfrom a ship'smasthead: it lies in the latitude of 12 degrees 51minutes south.Thesehowever aremarks too small for a ship tohit unless it canhereafterbeascertainedthatpassagesthroughthereefarenumerousalongthecoastwhichIaminclinedtothinktheyare,inwhichcasetherewouldbelittleriskevenifthewindwasdirectlyontheshore.

My longitude made by dead reckoning from the island Tofoa to our passagethroughthereefis40degrees10minuteswest.Providentialchannel,Iimagine,must lie very nearly under the same meridian with our passage, by which it

appearswehadout-runourreckoning1degree9minutes.

WenowreturnedGodthanksforhisgraciousprotection,andwithmuchcontenttookourmiserableallowanceofa25thofapoundofbreadandaquarterofapintofwaterfordinner.

CHAPTER16.ProgresstotheNorthwardalongtheCoastofNewHolland.LandondifferentIslandsinsearchofSupplies.

May1789.

Asweadvancedwithinthereefsthecoastbegantoshowitselfverydistinctlyinavarietyofhighandlowland,somepartsofwhichwerecoveredwithwood.Inourwaytowardstheshorewefell inwithapointofareefwhichisconnectedwiththattowardsthesea,andherewecametoagrapnelandtriedtocatchfishbut had no success. The islandDirection at this time bore south three or fourleagues. Two islands lay about fourmiles to thewest by north, and appearedeligible for a resting-place, if for nothing more; but on our approach to thenearest island it proved to be only a heap of stones, and its size tooinconsiderable to shelter the boat.We therefore proceeded to the next, whichwasclosetoitandtowardsthemain.Onthenorth-westsideofthisIfoundabayandafinesandypointtolandat.Ourdistancewasaboutaquarterofamilefroma projecting part of themain, which bore from south-west by south to north-north-westthree-quarterswest.Welandedtoexamineiftherewereanysignsofthenativesbeingnearus:wesawsomeoldfireplacesbutnothing tomakemeapprehend that this would be an unsafe situation for the night. Everyonewasanxious to find something to eat, and it was soon discovered that there wereoystersontherocksforthetidewasout;butitwasnearlydarkandonlyafewcouldbegathered.Ideterminedthereforetowaittillthemorning,whenIshouldbetterknowhowtoproceed,andIdirectedthatonehalfofourcompanyshouldsleeponshoreandtheotherhalfintheboat.Wewouldgladlyhavemadeafirebut,aswecouldnotaccomplishit,wetookourrestforthenight,whichhappilywascalmandundisturbed.

Friday29.

Thedawnofdaybroughtgreaterstrengthandspirits tous thanIexpectedfor,notwithstanding everyone was very weak, there appeared strength sufficientremainingtomakemeconceivethemostfavourablehopesofourbeingabletosurmountthedifficultieswemightyethavetoencounter.

AstherewerenoappearancestomakemeimaginethatanyofthenativeswerenearusIsentoutpartiesinsearchofsupplies,whileothersofthepeoplewereputting the boat in order that we might be ready to go to sea, in case anyunforeseencauseshouldmake itnecessary.Oneof thegudgeonsof therudderhadcomeoutinthecourseofthenightandwaslost.This,ifithadhappenedatsea, might have been attended with the most serious consequences, as themanagementof theboatcouldnothavebeensonicelypreservedas theseveryheavyseasrequired.Ihadbeenapprehensiveofthisaccident,andhadinsomemeasurepreparedfor it,byhavinggrummetsfixedoneachquarterof theboatforoars;butourutmostreadinessinusingthemwouldnotprobablyhavesavedus.Itappearsthereforeaprovidentialcircumstancethatithappenedinaplaceofsafety,andthatitwasinourpowertoremedythedefect;forbygreatgoodluckwefoundalargestapleintheboat,whichansweredthepurpose.

Thepartiesreturned,highlyrejoicedathavingfoundplentyofoystersandfreshwater.Ihadalsomadeafirebythehelpofasmallmagnifyingglassand,whatwasstillmorefortunate,wefoundamongthefewthingswhichhadbeenthrowninto theboatandsavedapieceofbrimstoneanda tinderbox,so thatIsecuredfireforthefuture.

Oneofthepeoplehadbeensoprovidentastobringawaywithhimfromtheshipacopperpot:bybeinginpossessionof thisarticlewewereenabledtomakeaproper use of the supplywe nowobtained for,with amixture of bread and alittlepork,wemadeastewthatmighthavebeenrelishedbypeopleoffarmoredelicateappetites,andofwhicheachpersonreceivedafullpint.

Thegeneralcomplaintsofdiseaseamonguswereadizzinessinthehead,greatweakness of the joints, and violent tenesmus, most of us having had noevacuationbystoolsincewelefttheship.Ihadconstantlyaseverepainatmystomachbut noneof our complaintswere alarming: on the contrary, everyoneretainedmarks of strength that,with amind possessed of a tolerable share offortitude,seemedable tobearmorefatigue thanI imaginedweshouldhave toundergoinourvoyagetoTimor.

AsIwouldnotallowthepeopletoexposethemselvestotheheatofthesun,itbeingnearnoon,everyonetookhisallotmentofearthwhereitwasshadedbythebushesforashortsleep.

Theoysterswhichwefoundgrewsofasttotherocksthatitwaswithdifficulty

they could be broken off, and at length we discovered it to be the mostexpeditiouswaytoopenthemwheretheywerefixed.Theywereofagoodsize,andwell tasted. To add to this happy circumstance in the hollow of the landthere grew some wire-grass, which indicated a moist situation. On forcing astick, about three feet long, into the ground we found water, and with littletrouble dug awellwhich produced asmuch as our occasions required. Itwasvery good, but I could not determine if it was a spring or not.We were notobligedtomakethewelldeepforitflowedasfastasweemptiedit,which,asthe soil was apparently too loose to retain water from the rains, renders itprobable to be a spring. On the south side of the island likewise we found asmallrunofgoodwater.

Besidesplaceswherefireshadbeenmadetherewereothersignsofthenativessometimes resorting to this island. I saw two ill-constructed huts orwigwamswhichhadonlyonesidelooselycovered,andapointedstickwasfound,aboutthreefeet long,withaslit in theendof it toslingstoneswith, thesameas thenativesofVanDiemen'slanduse.

ThetrackofsomeanimalwasverydiscernibleandNelsonagreedwithmethatitwas thekangaroo;butwhether theseanimalsswimoverfromthemainland,orarebroughtherebythenativestobreed,itisimpossibletodetermine.Thelatteris not improbable as theymaybe takenwith less difficulty in a confined spotlikethisthanonthecontinent.

The island is about a league in circuit: it is a high lump of rocks and stonescoveredwithwood;butthetreesaresmall,thesoil,whichisveryindifferentandsandy,beingbarelysufficient toproduce them.The trees thatcamewithinourknowledgewerethemanchinealandaspeciesofpurow;alsosomepalmtrees,thetopsofwhichwecutdown,andthesoftinteriorpartorheartofthemwassopalatablethatitmadeagoodadditiontoourmess.Nelsondiscoveredsomefern-rootswhichIthoughtmightbegoodroastedasasubstituteforbread,butinthisIwasmistaken:ithoweverwasveryserviceableinitsnaturalstatetoallaythirst,andon that account I directed a quantity to be collected to take into the boat.Many pieces of coconut shells and husk were found about the shore, but wecouldfindnococonuttrees,neitherdidIseeanyonthemain.

Ihadcautionedthepeoplenottotouchanykindofberryorfruitthattheymightfind;yettheywerenosooneroutofmysightthantheybegantomakefreewiththree different kinds that grew all over the island, eatingwithout any reserve.

Thesymptomsofhavingeatentoomuchbeganatlasttofrightensomeofthembut, on questioning others who had taken a more moderate allowance, theirmindswerealittlequieted.Theothershoweverbecameequallyalarmedintheirturn, dreading that such symptoms would come on, and that they were allpoisoned, so that they regarded each other with the strongest marks ofapprehension, uncertain what would be the issue of their imprudence.Fortunately the fruit proved wholesome and good. One sort grew on a smalldelicatekindofvine; theywerethesizeofa largegooseberryandverylike insubstance, but had only a sweet taste; the skin was a pale red, streaked withyellow the longway of the fruit: itwas pleasant and agreeable.Another kindgrewonbusheslikethatwhichiscalledtheseasidegrapeintheWestIndies,butthefruitwasverydifferent,beingmorelikeelderberries,andgrewinclustersinthesamemanner.Thethirdsortwasablackberry;thiswasnotinsuchplentyastheothersandresembledabullace,orlargekindofsloe,bothinsizeandtaste.WhenIsawthatthesefruitswereeatenbythebirdsInolongerdoubtedoftheirbeingwholesome,and thosewhohadalready tried theexperiment,not findinganybadeffect,madeitacertaintythatwemighteatofthemwithoutdanger.

Wildpigeons,parrots,andotherbirdswereaboutthesummitoftheislandbut,havingnofirearms,reliefofthatkindwasnottobeexpectedunlessweshouldfind someunfrequented spotwhere thebirdswere so tame thatwemight takethemwithourhands.

Theshoreofthisislandisveryrockyexcepttheplaceatwhichwelanded,andhereIpickedupmanypiecesofpumice-stone.Onthepartofthemainnearesttouswereseveralsandybayswhichatlowwaterbecameanextensiverockyflat.Thecountryhadratherabarrenappearanceexceptinafewplaceswhereitwascoveredwithwood.Aremarkablerangeofrocks layafewmiles to thesouth-west,andahighpeakedhillseemedtoterminatethecoasttowardsthesea,withislands to thesouthward.Ahighfaircapeshowedthedirectionof thecoast tothenorth-westaboutsevenleaguesdistant;andtwosmallisleslaythreeorfourleaguestothenorthwardofourpresentstation.

Isawafewbeesorwaspsandseveral lizards;andtheblackberrybusheswerefullofantsnests,webbedlikeaspider'sbutsocloseandcompactasnottoadmitthe rain.A trunk of a tree about 50 feet long lay on the beach, fromwhich Iconcludethataheavyseasetsinherewithanortherlywind.

This day being the anniversary of the restoration ofKingCharles theSecond,

and the name not being inapplicable to our present situation (for we wererestoredtofreshlifeandstrength)InamedthisRestorationIsland;forIthoughtitprobablethatCaptainCookmightnothavetakennoticeofit.TheothernameswhichIhavepresumedtogivethedifferentpartsofthecoastaremeantonlytoshowmyroutemoredistinctly.

AtnoonIobservedthelatitudeoftheislandtobe12degrees39minutessouth,ourcoursehavingbeennorth66degreeswest,distance18milesfromyesterdaynoon.Thewindwasateast-south-eastwithveryfineweather.

IntheafternoonIsentpartiesoutagaintogatheroysters,withwhichandsomeof the innerpartof thepalm-topwemadeanothergood stew for supper, eachperson receiving a full pint and a half; but I refused bread to thismeal for Iconsideredthatourwantsmightyetbeverygreat,andwasintentonsavingourprincipalsupportwheneveritwasinmypower.Aftersupperweagaindividedandthosewhowereonshoresleptbyagoodfire.

Saturday30.

In themorning I discovered avisible alteration inour company for thebetter,andIsentthemawayagaintogatheroysters.Wehadnowonlytwopoundsofpork left.This article,which I couldnotkeepunder lockandkeyas Idid thebread, had been pilfered by some inconsiderate person, but everyone deniedhavinganyknowledgeofthisact;Ithereforeresolvedtoputitoutoftheirpowerforthefuturebysharingwhatremainedforourdinner.Whilethepartywasoutpicking up oysters I got the boat in readiness for sea, and filled all ourwatervessels,whichamountedtonearly60gallons.

Thepartybeingreturned,dinnerwassoonready,whichwasasplentifulamealasthesupperontheprecedingevening,andwiththeporkIgaveanallowanceofbread.AsitwasnotyetnoonIsentthepeopleoncemoretogatheroystersforasea store, recommending to them to be as diligent as possible for that I wasdeterminedtosailintheafternoon.

AtnoonIagainobservedthelatitude12degrees39minutessouth;itwasthenhigh-water,thetidehadrisenthreefeet,butIcouldnotbecertainfromwhencethe flood came. I deduce the time of high-water at full and change to be tenminutespastseveninthemorning.

Early in the afternoon the people returnedwith the few oysters that they had

collectedandeverythingwasputintotheboat.Ithenexaminedthequantityofbread remaining and found 38 days allowance, according to the last mode ofissuinga25thofapoundatbreakfastandatdinner.

Fairweatherandmoderatebreezesateast-south-eastandsouth-east.

BeingreadyforseaIdirectedeverypersontoattendprayers.Atfouro'clockwewerepreparing toembarkwhenabout twentyof thenativesappeared, runningandhallooingtous,ontheoppositeshore.Theywereeacharmedwithaspearorlanceandashortweaponwhichtheycarriedintheirlefthand:theymadesignsforustocometothem.Onthetopofthehillswesawtheheadsofmanymore:whether these were their wives and children or others who waited for ourlanding,meaningnottoshowthemselveslestwemightbeintimidated,Icannotsaybut,asIfoundwewerediscoveredtobeonthecoast,Ithoughtitprudenttomakethebestofourwayforfearofbeingpursuedbycanoes,though,fromtheaccounts ofCaptainCook, the chancewas that therewere very few if any ofconsequenceonanypartof thecoast. Ipassed thesepeopleasnearas Icouldwithsafety:theywerenakedandapparentlyblack,andtheirhairorwoolbushyandshort.

IdirectedmycoursewithintwosmallislandsthatlietothenorthofRestorationIsland,passingbetweenthemandthemainlandtowardsFairCapewithastrongtide in my favour, so that I was abreast of it by eight o'clock. The coast wepassed was high and woody. As I could see no land without Fair Cape Iconcluded that the coast inclined to the north-west and west-north-west: Ithereforesteeredmoretowardsthewest;butbyeleveno'clockatnightwemetwith low land which inclined to the north-east, and at three o'clock in themorning I found thatwewere embayed,whichobligedus to standback for ashorttimetothesouthward.

Sunday31.

Atdaybreak Iwasexceedinglysurprised to find theappearanceof thecountryentirely changed, as if in the course of the night we had been transported toanotherpartoftheworld;forwehadnowalowsandycoastinview,withverylittleverdureoranythingtoindicatethatitwasatallhabitabletoahumanbeingexceptafewpatchesofsmalltreesorbrushwood.

Manysmall islandswere insight to thenorth-eastaboutsixmilesdistant.The

easternpart of themainborenorth fourmiles, andFairCape south-south-eastfive or six leagues. I took the channel between the nearest island and themainland, which were about one mile apart, leaving all the islands on thestarboard side. Some of thesewere very pretty spots, coveredwithwood andwell situated for fishing: large shoals of fishwere about us butwe could notcatch any. In passing this strait we saw another party of Indians, seven innumber,runningtowardsus,shoutingandmakingsignsforustoland.Someofthemwavedgreenbranchesof thebusheswhichwerenear themasa tokenoffriendship;butsomeoftheirothermotionswerelessfriendly.Alittlefartheroffwesawalargerpartywholikewisecametowardsus.IthereforedeterminednottolandthoughImuchwishedtohavehadsomeintercoursewiththesepeople.NeverthelessIlaidtheboatclosetotherocksandbeckonedtothemtoapproachbutnoneof themwouldcomewithin200yardsofus.TheywerearmedinthesamemannerasthepeoplewehadseenfromRestorationIsland;theywerestarknaked,theircolourblack,withshortbushyhairorwool,andintheirappearanceweresimilartothemineveryrespect.Anislandofagoodheightborenorthhalfwestfourmilesfromus,atwhichIresolvedto landandfromthenceto takealookatthecoast.Atthisislewearrivedabouteighto'clockinthemorning.Theshorewas rockybut thewaterwassmoothandwe landedwithoutdifficulty. Isenttwopartiesout,onetothenorthwardandtheothertothesouthward,toseekfor supplies,andothers Iordered to stayby theboat.On thisoccasion fatigueandweaknesssofargotthebetteroftheirsenseofdutythatsomeofthepeopleexpressed theirdiscontentathavingworkedharder than theircompanions,anddeclared that theywould ratherbewithout theirdinner thango insearchof it.Onepersoninparticularwentsofarastotellme,withamutinouslook,thathewas as good aman asmyself. Itwas not possible forme to judgewhere thismighthaveanendifnotstoppedin time, therefore topreventsuchdisputes infuture I determined either to preservemycommandor die in the attempt and,seizingacutlass, Iorderedhimto takeholdofanotheranddefendhimself,onwhich he called out that I was going to kill him and immediately madeconcessions. I did not allow this to interfere further with the harmony of theboat'screwandeverythingsoonbecamequiet.

The parties continued collecting what they could find, which were some fineoystersandclamsandafewsmalldog-fishthatwerecaughtintheholesoftherocks.Wealsofoundsomerainwaterinthehollowoftherocksonthenorthpartof the island, so that of this essential articlewewere again so fortunate as toobtainafullsupply.

AfterregulatingthemodeofproceedingIwalkedtothehighestpartoftheislandto consider our route for the night. Tomy surprise nomore of the mainlandcouldbeseenherethanfrombelow,thenorthernmostpart insight,whichwasfullofsandhillsbearingwestbynorthaboutthreeleagues.Excepttheislestotheeast-south-eastandsouththatwehadpassedIcouldonlydiscoverasmallkeynorth-west by north. As this was considerably farther from themain than thespotonwhichwewere atpresent I judged itwouldbe amore secure resting-place for the night, for here we were liable to an attack, if the Indians hadcanoes, as they undoubtedlymust have observed our landing.Mymind beingmadeupon thispoint I returnedafter takingaparticular lookat the islandwewereon,whichIfoundonlytoproduceafewbushesandsomecoarsegrass,theextentofthewholenotbeingtwomilesincircuit.OnthenorthsideinasandybayIsawanoldcanoeabout33feetlong,lyingbottomupwardsandhalfburiedinthebeach.Itwasmadeofthreepieces,thebottomentire,towhichthesidesweresewedinthecommonway.Ithadasharpprojectingprowrudelycarvedinresemblanceoftheheadofafish;theextremebreadthwasaboutthreefeetandIimagine itwascapableofcarrying20men.Thediscoveryof so largeacanoeconfirmed me in the purpose of seeking a more retired place for our night'slodging.

Atnoonthepartieswereallreturnedbuthadfoundmuchdifficultyingatheringtheoystersfromtheircloseadherencetotherocks,andtheclamswerescarce:Ithereforesawthatitwouldbeoflittleusetoremainlongerinthisplace,asweshouldnotbeabletocollectmorethanwecouldeat.InamedthisSundayIsland:itliesnorthbywestthree-quarterswestfromRestorationIsland;thelatitudebyagoodobservation11degrees58minutessouth.

Wehadafreshbreezeatsouth-eastbysouthwithfairweather.Attwoo'clockinthe afternoon we dined, each person having a full pint and a half of stewedoystersandclams,thickenedwithsmallbeanswhichNelsoninformedmewereaspeciesofDolichos.HavingeatenheartilyandcompletedourwaterIwaitedtodeterminethetimeofhigh-water,whichIfoundtobeat threeo'clock,andtheriseofthetideaboutfivefeet.Accordingtothisitishigh-wateronthefullandchangeat19minutespast9inthemorning:Iobservedthefloodtocomefromthe southward, though at Restoration Island I thought it came from thenorthward.IthinkCaptainCookmentionsthathefoundgreatirregularityinthesetofthefloodonthiscoast.

Westeeredforthekeyseeninthenorth-westbynorthwherewearrivedjustat

dark,butfounditsosurroundedbyareefofrocksthatIcouldnotlandwithoutdanger of staving the boat; and on that accountwe came to a grapnel for thenight.

MondayJune1.

Atdawnofdaywegotonshoreandtrackedtheboatintoshelterfor,thewindblowingfreshwithoutandthegroundbeingrocky,itwasnotsafetotrustherata grapnel lest she should be blown to sea: I was therefore obliged to let herground in the course of the ebb. From appearances I expected that if weremainedtillnightweshouldmeetwithturtleaswediscoveredrecenttracksofthem.Innumerablebirdsofanoddykindmadethisislandtheirresting-place;sothatwehadreasontoflatterourselveswithhopesofgettingsuppliesingreaterabundancethanithadhithertobeeninourpower.Oursituationwasatleastfourleaguesdistantfromthemain.Wewereonthenorth-westernmostoffoursmallkeyswhichweresurroundedbyareefofrocksconnectedbysandbanksexceptbetween the twonorthernmost, and there likewise itwasdryat lowwater, thewholeformingalagoonislandintowhichthetideflowed:atthisentranceIkepttheboat.

As usual I sent parties away in search of supplies but, to our greatdisappointment,wecouldonlyget a fewclamsand somedolichos:with theseandtheoysterswehadbroughtfromSundayIslandImadeupamessfordinnerwiththeadditionofasmallquantityofbread.

Towards noonNelson and some others who had been to the easternmost keyreturned, but Nelson was in so weak a condition that he was obliged to besupportedbytwomen.Hiscomplaintwasaviolentheatinhisbowels,alossofsight,muchdrought,andan inability towalk.This I foundwasoccasionedbyhisbeingunable tosupport theheatof thesunand that,whenhewasfatiguedand faint, insteadof retiring into theshade to resthehadcontinued toattemptmorethanhisstrengthwasequalto.Iwasgladtofindthathehadnofever;anditwasnowthatthelittlewinewhichIhadsocarefullysavedbecameofrealuse.Igaveitinverysmallquantitieswithsomepiecesofbreadsoakedinit;andhesoon began to recover. The boatswain and carpenter also were ill andcomplainedofheadacheandsicknessof the stomach.Otherswhohadnothadanyevacuationbystoolbecameshockinglydistressedwiththetenesmussothattherewerebutfewwithoutcomplaints.Anideaprevailedthatthesicknessoftheboatswainandcarpenterwasoccasionedbyeatingthedolichos.Myselfhowever

and some otherswho had taken the same food felt no inconvenience; but thetruthwas thatmanyof thepeoplehadeatena largequantityof themraw,andNelsoninformedmethattheywereconstantlyteasinghimwheneveraberrywasfoundtoknowifitwasgoodtoeat;sothatitwouldnothavebeensurprisingifmanyofthemhadbeenreallypoisoned.

OurdinnerwasnotsowellrelishedasatSundayIslandbecausewehadmixedthe dolichos with our stew. The oysters and soup however were eaten byeveryoneexceptNelsonwhomIfedwithafewsmallpiecesofbreadsoakedinhalfaglassofwine,andhecontinuedtomend.

InmywalkroundtheislandIfoundseveralcoconutshells,theremainsofanoldwigwam,andthebacksoftwoturtless,butnosignofanyquadruped.Oneofthepeoplefoundthreeseafowl'seggs.

As is common on such spots the soil is little other than sand, yet it producedsmall toa-trees and someothers thatwewerenot acquaintedwith.Therewerefish in the lagoon, butwe could not catch any.Ourwants thereforewere notlikely to be supplied here, not even with water for our daily expense:neverthelessIdeterminedtowaittillthemorning,thatwemighttryoursuccessinthenightforturtleandbirds.Aquietnight'srestalso,Iconceived,wouldbeofessentialservicetothosewhowereunwell.

Thewigwam and turtle shellwere proofs that the natives at times visited thisplace, and that theyhad canoes the remainsof the large canoe thatwe sawatSundayIslandleftnoroomtodoubt:butIdidnotapprehendthatwerananyriskby remaininghere a short time. I directedour fire however to bemade in thethicketthatwemightnotbediscoveredbyitslight.

AtnoonIobservedthelatitudeofthisislandtobe11degrees47minutessouth.Themainlandextendedtowardsthenorth-westandwasfullofwhitesandhills:anothersmallislandlaywithinus,bearingwestbynorthonequarternorththreeleaguesdistant.Our situationbeingvery lowwecould seenothingof the reeftowardsthesea.

Theafternoonwasadvantageouslyspentinsleep.Therewerehoweverafewnotdisposedtoit,andthosewereemployedindressingsomeclamstotakewithusforthenextday'sdinner:otherswecutupinslicestodry,whichIknewwasthemostvaluablesupplywecouldfindhere,buttheywereveryscarce.

Towards evening I cautioned everyone against making too large a fire orsuffering it after dark to blaze up. Mr. Samuel and Mr. Peckover hadsuperintendence of this business, while I was strolling about the beach toobserve if I thought it couldbe seen from themain. Iwas just satisfied that itcouldnotwhenonasudden the islandappearedall inablaze thatmighthavebeen discerned at amuchmore considerable distance. I ran to learn the causeandfoundthatitwasoccasionedbytheimprudenceandobstinacyofoneofthepartywho inmy absence had insisted on having a fire to himself, inmakingwhich the flames caught the neighbouring grass and rapidly spread. Thismisconductmighthaveproducedveryseriousconsequencesbydiscoveringoursituation to the natives for, if they had attacked us, we had neither arms norstrengthtoopposeanenemy.ThusthereliefwhichIexpectedfromalittlesleepwastotallylostandIanxiouslywaitedfortheflowingofthetidethatwemightproceedtosea.

Itwashigh-waterathalf-pastfivethiseveningwhenceIdeducedthetimeonthefullandchangeofthemoontobe58past10inthemorning:therisewasnearlyfivefeet.Icouldnotobservethesetofthefloodbutimaginedittocomefromthesouthward,andthatIwasmistakenatRestorationIslandasIfoundthetimeofhigh-watergraduallylaterthemoreweadvancedtothenorthward.

AtRestoration Island high-water full and change : 7 hours 10. Sunday Islandhigh-water full andchange :9hours19.Herehigh-water full andchange :10hours58.

After eighto'clockMr.Samuel andMr.Peckoverwentout towatch for turtleandthreemenwent to theeastkeytoendeavour tocatchbirds.All theothers,complaining of being sick, took their rest, except Mr. Hayward and Mr.Elphinston whom I directed to keep watch. About midnight the bird partyreturnedwithonly twelvenoddies, birdswhich Ihave alreadydescribed tobeaboutthesizeofpigeons:butifithadnotbeenforthefollyandobstinacyofoneof the party, who separated from the other two and disturbed the birds, theymighthavecaughtagreatnumber.IwassomuchprovokedatmyplansbeingthusdefeatedthatIgavethisoffenderagoodbeating.*Inowwentinsearchofthe turtling partywhohad taken great pains butwithout success.This did notsurprisemeasitwasnottobeexpectedthatturtlewouldcomenearusafterthenoisewhichhadbeenmadeatthebeginningoftheeveninginextinguishingthefire. I therefore desired them to come back, but they requested to stay a littlelongerastheystillhopedtofindsomebeforedaylight:howevertheyreturnedby

threeo'clockwithoutanyrewardfortheirlabour.

(*Footnote.Robertlamb.ThismanwhenhecametoJavaacknowledgedhehadeatenninebirdsrawafterheseparatedfromhistwocompanions.)

Tuesday2.

Thebirdswehalfdressedthattheymightkeepthebetter:andthesewithafewclamsmadethewholeofthesupplyprocuredhere.Itiedafewgiltbuttonsandsomepiecesofirontoatreeforanyofthenativesthatmightcomeafterusand,findingmyinvalidsmuchbetterfortheirnight'srest,weembarkedanddepartedbydawnofday.Windatsouth-east;coursetothenorthbywest.

Whenwehadruntwoleaguestothenorthwardtheseasuddenlybecameroughwhich, not having before experienced since we were within the reefs, Iconcluded tobeoccasionedbyanopenchannel to theocean.Soonafterwardswemetwithalargeshoalonwhichweretwosandykeys;betweentheseandtwoothers, four miles to the west, I passed on to the northward, the sea stillcontinuingtoberough.

TowardsnoonIfellinwithsixotherkeys,mostofwhichproducedsomesmalltrees and brushwood. These formed a pleasing contrastwith themainlandwehad passed which was full of sandhills. The country continued hilly and thenorthernmostland,thesamewehadseenfromthelagoonisland,appearedlikedowns,slopingtowardsthesea.Nearlyabreastofuswasaflat-toppedhillwhichonaccountof its shape I calledPudding-panhill; anda little to thenorthwardwere two other hillswhichwe called the Paps; and herewas a small tract ofcountrywithoutsand, theeasternpartofwhichformsacapewhence thecoastinclinestothenorth-westbynorth.

At noon I observed in the latitude of 11 degrees 18 minutes south the capebearingwest distant tenmiles. Five small keys bore fromnorth-east to south-east,thenearestofthemabouttwomilesdistant,andalowsandykeybetweenusandthecapeborewestdistantfourmiles.Mycoursefromthelagoonislandhadbeennorthhalfwestdistant30miles.

Iamsorryitwasnotinmypowertoobtainasufficientknowledgeofthedepthof water but in our situation nothing could be undertaken that might haveoccasioneddelay.ItmayhoweverbeunderstoodthattothebestofmyjudgmentfromappearancesashipmaypasswhereverIhaveomittedtorepresentdanger.

Idividedsixbirdsandissuedone25thofapoundofbreadwithhalfapintofwatertoeachpersonfordinner,andIgavehalfaglassofwinetoNelson,whowasnowsofarrecoveredastorequirenootherindulgence.

Thegunnerwhenhelefttheshipbroughthiswatchwithhim,bywhichwehadregulated out time till today, when unfortunately it stopped; so that noon,sunrise, and sunset, are the only parts of the 24 hours of which fromhenceforwardIcanspeakwithcertaintyastotime.

Thewindblewfreshfromthesouth-south-eastandsouth-eastall theafternoonwithfairweather.Aswestoodtothenorthbywestwefoundmoresea,whichIattributed to our receiving less shelter from the reefs to the eastward: it isprobabletheydidnotextendsofarnorthasthis;atleastitmaybeconcludedthatthereisnotacontinuedbarriertopreventshippinghavingaccesstotheshore.Iobserved that the stream set to the north-west, which I considered to be theflood.Insomeplacesalongthecoastwesawpatchesofwood.Atfiveo'clock,steeringtothenorth-west,wepassedalargeandfairinletintowhichIimaginethere is a safe and commodious entrance; it lies in latitude 11 degrees south.About three leagues to thenorthwardof this is an island, atwhichwe arrivedaboutsunset,and tookshelter for thenightunderasandypointwhichwas theonlypartwecouldlandat.ThisbeingratherawildsituationIthoughtitbesttosleepintheboat:neverthelessIsentapartyawaytoseeifanythingcouldbegot,buttheyreturnedwithoutsuccess.Theysawagreatnumberofturtlebonesandshellswhere thenativeshadbeen feasting,and their lastvisit seemed tobeoflatedate.Theislandwascoveredwithwood,butinotherrespectsitwasalumpofrocks.

Wednesday3.

Welayatagrapneltilldaylightwithaveryfreshgaleandcloudyweather.Themainborefromsouth-eastbysouthtonorth-north-westhalfwestthreeleagues,and amountainous islandwith a flat top, north bywest four or five leagues,betweenwhichand themainlandwereseveralother islands.Thespotwewereat,whichIcallTurtleIsland,liesinlatitudebyaccount10degrees52minutessouthand42mileswestfromRestorationIsland.Abreastofitthecoasthastheappearance of a sandy desert, but improves about three leagues farther to thenorthwardwhereitterminatesinapoint,neartowhicharemanysmallislands.Isailed between these islands where I found no bottom at twelve fathoms; thehighmountainousislandwithaflattopandfourrockstothesouth-eastofit,that

IcalltheBrothers,beingonmystarboardhand.Soonafteranextensiveopeningappearedinthemainland,inwhichwereanumberofhighislands.IcalledthistheBayofIslands.Wecontinuedsteeringtothenorth-west.Severalislandsandkeyswereinsighttothenorthward:themostnortherlyislandwasmountainous,havingon it averyhigh roundhill, anda smallerwas remarkable fora singlepeakedhill.

The coast to the northward and westward of the Bay of Islands is high andwoodyandhasabrokenappearance,withmanyislandsclosetoit,amongwhichthere are fine bays and convenient places for shipping. The northernmost oftheseislandsIcallWednesdayIsland:tothenorth-westofthiswefellinwithalarge reefwhich I believe joins a number of keys thatwere in sight from thenorth-west to the east-north-east.We therefore stood to the south-west half aleague when it was noon, and I had a good observation of the latitude in 10degrees31minutessouth.WednesdayIslandboreeastbysouthfivemiles; thewesternmost land in sight south-west two or three leagues; the islands to thenorthward from north-west by west to north-east, and the reef from west tonorth-eastdistantonemile.IwasnowtolerablycertainthatweshouldbeclearofNewHollandintheafternoon.

Iknownothowfarthisreefextends.Itmaybeacontinuationoradetachedpartoftherangeofshoalsthatsurroundthecoast.Ibelievethemountainousislandstobeseparatefromtheshoals,andhavenodoubtthatnearthemmaybefoundgoodpassages forships.But I rather recommend to thosewhoare topass thisstraitfromtheeastwardtotaketheirdirectionfromthecoastofNewGuinea:yetI likewisethinkthatashipcomingfromthesouthwardwillfindafairstrait inthelatitudeof10degreessouth.Imuchwishedtohaveascertainedthispointbutin our distressful situation any increase of fatigue or loss of timemight havebeenattendedwith themost fatalconsequences. I thereforedetermined topassonwithoutdelay.

As an addition to our dinner of bread and water I served to each person sixoysters.

Attwoo'clockintheafternoonasweweresteeringtothesouth-westtowardsthewesternmostpartofthelandinsightwefellinwithsomelargesandbanksthatrunoff from thecoast: I thereforecalled thisShoalCape.Wewereobliged tosteer to the northward again tillwe got round the shoals,when I directed thecoursetothewest.

Atfouro'clockthewesternmostoftheislandstothenorthwardborenorthfourleagues;WednesdayIslandeastbynorthfiveleagues,andshoalcapesouth-eastbyeasttwoleagues.Asmallislandwasseenbearingwest,atwhichwearrivedbeforedarkand found that itwasonlya rockwhereboobies resort, forwhichreasonIcalleditBoobyIsland.HereterminatedtherocksandshoalsofthenorthpartofNewHollandforexceptBoobyIslandnolandwasseentothewestwardofsouthafterthreeo'clockthisafternoon.

I find that Booby island was seen by Captain Cook and, by a remarkablecoincidence of ideas, received from him the same name, but I cannot withcertaintyreconcilethesituationofsomepartsofthecoastthatIhaveseentohissurvey.Iascribethistothevariousformsinwhichlandappearswhenseenfromthedifferentheightsofashipandaboat.ThechartIhavegivenisbynomeansmeant to supersede thatmade byCaptain Cook,who had better opportunitiesthan I had and was in every respect properly provided for surveying. Theintentionofmineischieflytorenderthisnarrativemoreintelligible,andtoshowinwhatmannerthecoastappearedtomefromanopenboat.IhavelittledoubtbutthattheopeningwhichInamedtheBayofIslandsisEndeavourStraits;andthatourtrackwastothenorthwardofPrinceofWales'Isles.Perhaps,bythosewhoshallhereafternavigatetheseseas,moreadvantagemaybederivedfromthepossessionofbothourchartsthanfromeitherofthemsingly.

NECoastofNewHolland.aaTrackofLt.BlighintheBounty'sLaunch.

CHAPTER17.PassagefromNewHollandtotheIslandTimor.ArriveatCoupang.Receptionthere.

June1789.

Wednesday3.

At eight o'clock in the evening we once more launched into the open ocean.Miserable asour situationwas in every respect Iwas secretly surprised to seethat itdidnotappear toaffectanyonesostronglyasmyself;on thecontrary itseemedas if theyhadembarkedonavoyage toTimor in avessel sufficientlycalculated for safety and convenience. So much confidence gave me greatpleasureandImayventuretoassertthattothiscauseourpreservationischieflytobeattributed.

Iencouragedeveryonewithhopesthateightortendayswouldbringustoalandof safety; and, after praying to God for a continuance of his most graciousprotection,Iservedanallowanceofwaterforsupperanddirectedourcoursetothewest-south-westtocounteractthesoutherlywindsincasetheyshouldblowstrong.

WehadbeenjustsixdaysonthecoastofNewHollandinthecourseofwhichwe found oysters, a few clams, some birds, andwater. But perhaps a benefitnearly equal to this we received by having been relieved from the fatigue ofbeingconstantly in theboatandenjoyinggoodrestatnight.Theseadvantagescertainly preserved our lives and, small as the supplywas, I amvery sensiblehowmuchitalleviatedourdistresses.Bythistimenaturemusthavesunkundertheextremesofhungerand fatigue.Somewouldhaveceased to struggle foralife thatonlypromisedwretchednessandmisery;andothers, thoughpossessedofmorebodilystrength,mustsoonhavefollowedtheirunfortunatecompanions.Eveninourpresentsituationweweremostdeplorableobjects;butthehopesofaspeedyreliefkeptupourspirits.Formyownpart,incredibleasitmayappear,Ifeltneitherextremehungernorthirst.Myallowancecontentedme,knowingthatIcouldhavenomore.

Thursday4.

Iservedone25thofapoundofbreadandanallowanceofwaterforbreakfastandthesamefordinnerwithanadditionofsixoysterstoeachperson.Atnoonlatitude observed 10 degrees 48 minutes south; course since yesterday noonsouth 81 degrees west, distance 111 miles; longitude by account from ShoalCape1degree45minuteswest.Astrongtradewindateast-south-eastwithfairweather.

Thisdaywesawanumberofwater-snakesthatwereringedyellowandblack,andtowardsnoonwepassedagreatdealofrock-weed.Thoughtheweatherwasfairwewereconstantlyshippingwater,whichkepttwomenalwaysemployedtobaletheboat.

Friday5.

At noon I observed in latitude 10 degrees 45minutes south; our course sinceyesterday west one quarter north, 108 miles; longitude made 3 degrees 35minuteswest.Sixoysterswere,asyesterday,servedtoeachman,inadditiontotheusualallowanceofbreadandwater.

In the evening a few boobies came about us, one ofwhich I caughtwithmyhand.Thebloodwasdividedamongthreeofthemenwhowereweakest,butthebirdIorderedtobekeptforourdinnerthenextday.Servedaquarterofapintofwaterforsupper,andtosomewhoweremostinneedhalfapint.Inthecourseofthe night, being constantly wet with the sea, we suffered much cold andshiverings.

Saturday6.

AtdaylightI foundthatsomeof theclamswhichhadbeenhunguptodryforsea-storewerestolen;buteveryonesolemnlydeniedhavinganyknowledgeofit.This forenoonwe saw a gannet, a sand-lark and somewater-snakeswhich ingeneralwerefromtwoorthreefeetlong.

Theusualallowanceofbreadandwaterwasservedforbreakfast,andthesamefordinnerwiththebird,whichIdistributedintheusualway,ofWhoshallhavethis?IproposedtomakeTimoraboutthelatitudeof9degrees30minutessouth,or10degreessouth.AtnoonIobservedthelatitudetobe10degrees19minutessouth; coursenorth77degreeswest, distance117miles; longitudemade from

theShoalCape,thenorthpartofNewHolland,5degrees31minuteswest.

In the afternoon I took an opportunity of examining our store of bread, andfoundremaining19daysallowance,attheformerrateofservingone25thofapoundthreetimesaday:therefore,asIsaweveryprospectofaquickpassage,Iagainventuredtograntanallowanceforsupper,agreeabletomypromiseatthetimeitwasdiscontinued.

Sunday7.

Wepassed thenightmiserablywetandcoldand in themorningIheardheavycomplaints. The sea was high and breaking over us. I could only afford theallowanceofbreadandwaterforbreakfast,butfordinnerIgaveoutanounceofdriedclamstoeachperson,whichwasallthatremained.

AtnoonIalteredthecoursetothewest-north-westtokeepmorefromthesea,asthe wind blew strong. Latitude observed 9 degrees 31 minutes south; coursenorth57degreeswest,distance88miles;longitudemade6degrees46minuteswest.

Thesearanveryhighallthisdayandwehadfrequentshowersofrainsothatwewere continually wet and suffered much cold in the night. Mr. Ledward thesurgeon, andLawrenceLebogue, an old hardy seaman, appeared to be givingwayveryfast.IcouldonlyassistthembyateaspoonfulortwoofwinewhichIhadcarefullysaved,expectingsuchamelancholynecessity.

Monday8.

Windatsouth-east.Theweatherwasmoremoderatethanithadbeenforsomedayspast.Afewgannetswereseen.AtnoonIobservedin8degrees45minutessouth; course west-north-west one quarter west, 106 miles; longitude made 8degrees23minuteswest.TheseabeingsmoothIsteeredwestbysouth.

Atfourintheafternoonwecaughtasmalldolphin,whichwasthefirstreliefofthekind thatweobtained. I issuedabout twoounces toeachperson, includingtheoffals,andsavedtheremainderfordinnerthenextday.Towardseveningthewindfreshenedanditblewstrongallnight,sothatweshippedmuchwaterandsufferedgreatlyfromthewetandcold.

Tuesday9.

At daylight as usual I heard much complaining, which my own feelingsconvincedmewastoowellfounded.IgavethesurgeontheLeboguealittlewinebutIcouldaffordthemnofartherreliefexceptencouragingthemwithhopesthata very few days longer, at our present fine rate of sailing, would bring us toTimor.

Gannets,boobies,menofwarandtropicbirds,wereconstantlyaboutus.Servedtheusualallowanceofbreadandwaterandatnoonwedinedontheremainsofthedolphin,whichamountedtoaboutanounceperman.Iobservedthelatitudeto be 9 degrees 9minutes south; longitudemade 10 degrees 8minutes west;coursesinceyesterdaynoonsouth76degreeswest;distance107miles.

ThisafternoonIsufferedgreatsicknessfromthenatureofpartofthestomachofthefishwhichhadfallentomyshareatdinner.Atsunsetservedanallowanceofbreadandwaterforsupper.

Wednesday10.

In themorningafteraverycomfortlessnight therewasavisiblealteration forthe worse in many of the people which gave me great apprehensions. Anextremeweakness,swelledlegs,hollowandghastlycountenances,amorethancommoninclinationtosleep,withanapparentdebilityofunderstanding,seemedtomethemelancholypresagesofanapproachingdissolution.ThesurgeonandLebogue,inparticular,weremostmiserableobjects.Ioccasionallygavethemafewteaspoonfulsofwineoutof the little that remained,whichgreatlyassistedthem. The hopes of being able to accomplish the voyage was our principalsupport.TheboatswainveryinnocentlytoldmethathereallythoughtI lookedworse than anyone in the boat. The simplicitywithwhich he uttered such anopinionamusedmeandIreturnedhimabettercompliment.

Ourlatitudeatnoonwas9degrees16minutessouth.Longitudefromthenorthpart of NewHolland 12 degrees 1minutewest. Course since yesterday noonwest half south 111miles. Birds and rock-weed showed thatwewere not farfromland,butIexpectedsuchsignshereastherearemanyislandsbetweentheeastpartofTimorandNewGuinea.Thenightwasmoremoderatethanthelast.

Thursday11.

Everyone received the customary allowance of bread andwater, and an extraallowance of water was given to those who were most in need. At noon I

observed in latitude 9 degrees 41 minutes south; course 77 degrees west,distance 109 miles; longitude made 13 degrees 49 minutes west. I had littledoubtofhavingnowpassedthemeridianoftheeasternpartofTimorwhichislaiddownin128degreeseast.Thisdiffuseduniversaljoyandsatisfaction.

Intheafternoonwesawgannetsandmanyotherbirds,andatsunsetwekeptaveryanxiouslookout.IntheeveningwecaughtaboobywhichIreservedforourdinnerthenextday.

Friday12.

At three in themorning,with an excess of joy,we discovered Timor bearingfromwest-south-west towest-north-west,and Ihauledonawind to thenorth-north-east tilldaylight,when the landbore fromsouth-westbysouth tonorth-eastbynorth.Ourdistancefromtheshoretwoleagues.

Itisnotpossibleformetodescribethepleasurewhichtheblessingofthesightofthislanddiffusedamongus.Itappearedscarcecredibletoourselvesthat, inan open boat and so poorly provided, we should have been able to reach thecoastofTimorinforty-onedaysafterleavingTofoa,havinginthattimerun,byourlog,adistanceof3618miles;andthat,notwithstandingourextremedistress,nooneshouldhaveperishedinthevoyage.

I have already mentioned that I knew not where the Dutch settlement wassituatedbut Ihada faint idea that itwasat thesouth-westpartof the island. Itherefore,afterdaylight,boreawayalongshoretothesouth-south-west,whichIwas the more readily induced to do as the wind would not suffer us to gotowardsthenorth-eastwithoutgreatlossoftime.

Thedaygaveusamostagreeableprospectof the landwhichwas interspersedwithwoodsandlawns;theinteriorpartmountainous,buttheshorelow.Towardsnoonthecoastbecamehigherwithsomeremarkableheadlands.Weweregreatlydelightedwiththegenerallookofthecountrywhichexhibitedmanycultivatedspotsandbeautifulsituations;butwecouldonlyseeafewsmallhutswhenceIconcludedthatnoEuropeanresidedin thispartof the island.Muchsearanontheshorewhichmadelandingimpracticable.Atnoonwewereabreastofahighheadland; theextremesof the landboresouth-westhalfwest,andnorth-north-easthalfeast;ourdistanceoffshorebeingthreemiles;latitudebyobservation9degrees59minutessouth;andmylongitudebydeadreckoningfromthenorth

partofNewHolland15degrees6minuteswest.

WiththeusualallowanceofbreadandwaterfordinnerIdividedthebirdwehadcaughtthenightbefore,andtothesurgeonandLebogueIgavealittlewine.

Thewindblewfreshateastandeast-south-eastwithveryhazyweather.Duringthe afternoon we continued our course along a low shore covered withinnumerablepalm-trees,calledtheFanPalmfromtheleafspreadinglikeafan;but here we saw no signs of cultivation, nor had the country so fine anappearanceastotheeastward.Thishoweverwasonlyasmalltract,forbysunsetit improved again and I saw several great smokeswhere the inhabitantswereclearing and cultivating their grounds.We had now run 25miles to thewest-south-westsincenoonandwerewestfivemilesfromalowpointwhich,intheafternoon,Iimaginedhadbeenthesouthernmostland,andherethecoastformedadeepbendwithlowlandinthebightthatappearedlikeislands.Thewestshorewashigh;butfromthispartofthecoasttothehighcapewhichwewereabreastof at noon the shore is low and I believe shoal. I particularly remark thissituationbecausehere theveryhigh ridgeofmountains that run from the eastendof the island, terminate,andtheappearanceof thecountrychangesfor theworse.

ThatwemightnotrunpastanysettlementinthenightIdeterminedtopreservemystationtillthemorningandthereforebroughttounderaclose-reefedforesail.Wewerehereinshoalwater,ourdistancefromtheshorebeinghalfaleague,thewesternmost landinsightbearingwest-south-westhalfwest.Servedbreadandwaterforsupperand,theboatlyingtoverywell,allbuttheofficerofthewatchendeavouredtogetalittlesleep.

Saturday13.

AttwointhemorningweworeandstoodinshoretilldaylightwhenIfoundwehad drifted during the night about three leagues to the west-south-west, thesouthernmostlandinsightbearingwest.Onexaminingthecoastandnotseeingany sign of a settlement we bore away to the westward having a strong galeagainstaweathercurrentwhichoccasionedmuchsea.Theshorewashighandcoveredwithwood, butwe did not run far before low land again formed thecoast,thepointsofwhichopeningatwestIoncemorefanciedwewereonthesouth part of the island; but at ten o'clockwe found the coast again incliningtowardsthesouth,partofitbearingwest-south-westhalfwest.Atthesametime

high landappeared in the south-west; but theweatherwas sohazy that itwasdoubtfulwhetherthetwolandswereseparated,theopeningonlyextendingonepointofthecompass.ForthisreasonIstoodtowardstheouterlandandfoundittobetheislandRoti.

IreturnedtotheshorewehadleftandbroughttoagrapnelinasandybaythatImightmore conveniently calculatemy situation. In this placewe saw severalsmokeswherethenativeswereclearingtheirgrounds.Duringthelittletimeweremainedherethemasterandcarpenterverymuchimportunedmetoletthemgoin search of supplies; towhich at length I assented but, not finding any otherpersonwillingtobeoftheirparty,theydidnotchoosetoquittheboat.Istoppedhereno longer than for thepurpose justmentioned,andwecontinuedsteeringalongshore.Wehad a viewof a beautiful-looking country as if formed by artinto lawns and parks. The coast is low and coveredwithwoods inwhich areinnumerable fan palm-trees that look like coconut walks. The interior part ishighlandbutverydifferentfromthemoreeasternpartsoftheislandwhereitisexceedinglymountainousandtoappearancethesoilbetter.

At noon the island Roti bore south-west by west seven leagues. I had noobservation for the latitude but by accountwewere in 10 degrees 12minutessouth; our course since yesterdaynoonbeing south 77degreeswest 54miles.Theusualallowanceofbreadandwaterwasservedforbreakfastanddinner,andtothesurgeonandLebogueIcontinuedtogivewine.

Wehadastrongbreezeateast-south-eastwithhazyweatheralltheafternoon.Attwo o'clock, having run through a very dangerous breaking sea, the cause ofwhichIattributed tobeastrong tidesetting towindward,andshoalwater,wediscoveredaspaciousbayorsoundwithafairentranceabouttwoorthreemileswide.Inowconceivedhopesthatourvoyagewasnearlyatanendasnoplacecould appear more eligible for shipping or more likely to be chosen for aEuropean settlement: I therefore came to a grapnel near the east side of theentranceinasmallsandybaywherewesawahut,adog,andsomecattle,andIimmediately sent the boatswain and gunner away to the hut to discover theinhabitants.

Thesouth-westpointoftheentranceborewesthalfsouththreemiles;thesouth-eastpointsouthbywestthree-quartersofamile;andtheislandRotifromsouthbywestonequarterwesttosouth-westonequarterwestaboutfiveleagues.

Whilewe lay here I found the ebb came from the northward, and before ourdeparturethefallingofthetidediscoveredtousareefofrocksabouttwocableslength from the shore, the whole being covered at high-water renders itdangerous.Ontheoppositeshorealsoappearedveryhighbreakers;butthereisneverthelessplentyofroomandcertainlyasafechannelforafirst-ratemanofwar.

Thebayorsoundwithin,seemedtobeofaconsiderableextent,thenorthernpartbeingaboutfiveleaguesdistant.Herethelandmadeinmoderaterisingsjoinedbylowergrounds.ButtheislandRotitothesouthwardisthebestmarkbywhichtoknowthisplace.

I had just time tomake these remarks when I saw the boatswain and gunnerreturningwithsomeofthenatives:Ithereforenolongerdoubtedofoursuccessandthatourexpectationswouldbefullygratified.TheybroughtfiveIndiansandinformedme that they had found two familieswhere thewomen treated themwithEuropeanpoliteness.FromthesepeopleIlearnedthatthegovernorresidedat a place calledCoupangwhichwas some distance to the north-east. Imadesigns for one of them to go in the boat and show us the way to Coupang,intimating that Iwouldpayhim forhis trouble: theman readilycompliedandcameintotheboat.

Thesepeoplewereofadark tawnycolour,had longblackhair, andchewedagreatdealofbetel.Theirdresswasasquarepieceofclothroundthehipsinthefoldsofwhichwasstuckalargeknife;ahandkerchiefwrappedroundthehead,andanotherhangingbythefourcornersfromtheshoulders,whichservedasabag for their betel equipage.They brought us a fewpieces of dried turtle andsomeearsofIndiancorn.Thislastwasthemostwelcome;fortheturtlewassohard that it could not be eaten without being first soaked in hot water. TheyofferedtobringussomeotherrefreshmentsifIwouldwait,butasthepilotwaswilling I determined topushon. Itwas about half anhourpast fourwhenwesailed.

Bydirectionofthepilotwekeptclosetotheeastshoreunderalloursail;butasnightcameonthewinddiedawayandwewereobligedtotryattheoarswhichIwassurprisedtoseewecouldusewithsomeeffect.Atteno'clock,findingweadvancedbutslowly,Icametoagrapnelandfor thefirst timeI issueddoubleallowanceofbreadandalittlewinetoeachperson.

Sunday14.

Atoneo'clock in themorning, after themosthappyand sweet sleep that evermenenjoyed,weweighedandcontinuedtokeeptheeastshoreonboardinverysmoothwater;whenatlastIfoundwewereagainopentothesea,thewholeofthe land to the westward that we had passed being an island which the pilotcalledPuloSamow.ThenorthernentranceofthischannelisaboutamileandahalfortwomileswideandIhadnogroundattenfathoms.

The reportof twocannon thatwere firedgavenew life toeveryone;and soonafter we discovered two square-rigged vessels and a cutter at anchor to theeastward.Weendeavouredtoworktowindwardbutwereobligedtotaketoouroars again, having lost ground on each tack.We kept close to the shore andcontinuedrowingtillfouro'clockwhenIbroughttoagrapnelandgaveanotherallowanceofbreadandwinetoallhands.Assoonaswehadrestedalittleweweighed again, and rowed till near daylightwhenwe came to a grapnel off asmallfortandtownwhichthepilottoldmewasCoupang.

Amongthethingswhichtheboatswainhadthrownintotheboatbeforewelefttheshipwasabundleofsignalflagsthathadbeenusedbytheboatstoshowthedepthofwaterinsounding;withthesewehadinthecourseofthepassagemadeasmalljackwhichInowhoistedinthemainshroudsasasignalofdistress,forIdidnotthinkpropertolandwithoutleave.

Soonafterdaybreakasoldierhailedustoland,whichIimmediatelydidamongacrowdofIndians,andwasagreeablysurprisedtomeetwithanEnglishsailorwhobelongedtooneofthevesselsintheroad.Hiscaptainhetoldmewasthesecondpersoninthetown;I thereforedesiredtobeconductedtohimasIwasinformedthegovernorwasillandcouldnotthenbespokenwith.

Captain Spikerman received me with great humanity. I informed him of ourdistressed situation;and requested that caremightbe takenof thosewhowerewith me without delay. On which he gave directions for their immediatereceptionathisownhouse,andwenthimself to thegovernor toknowatwhattimeIcouldbepermittedtoseehim,whichwasfixedtobeateleveno'clock.

Inowdesiredmypeopletocomeonshorewhichwasasmuchassomeofthemcoulddo,beingscarceabletowalk:theyhoweverwerehelpedtothehouseandfoundteawithbreadandbutterprovidedfortheirbreakfast.

The abilities of a painter, perhaps, could seldomhave been displayed tomoreadvantagethaninthedelineationofthetwogroupsoffigureswhichatthistimepresentedthemselvestoeachother.Anindifferentspectatorwouldhavebeenatalosswhichmosttoadmire,theeyesoffaminesparklingatimmediaterelief,orthe horror of their preservers at the sight of somany spectres, whose ghastlycountenances,if thecausehadbeenunknown,wouldratherhaveexcitedterrorthanpity.Ourbodieswerenothingbut skinandbones,our limbswere fullofsores,andwewereclothed in rags: in thiscondition,with the tearsof joyandgratitude flowing down our cheeks, the people of Timor beheld us with amixtureofhorror,surprise,andpity.

Thegovernor,Mr.WilliamAdrianvanEste,notwithstandingextremeill-health,became so anxious about us that I saw him before the appointed time. Hereceived me with great affection and gave me the fullest proofs that he waspossessedofeveryfeelingofahumaneandgoodman.Sorryashewas,hesaid,thatsuchacalamitycouldeverhavehappenedtous,yetheconsidereditasthegreatestblessingofhis life thatwehadfallenunderhisprotectionand, thoughhisinfirmitywassogreatthathecouldnotdotheofficeofafriendhimself,hewouldgivesuchordersasImightbecertainwouldprocureuseverysupplywewanted.Ahouseshouldbeimmediatelypreparedforme,andwithrespecttomypeoplehesaidthatImighthaveroomforthemeitheratthehospitaloronboardof captain Spikerman's ship which lay in the road; and he expressed muchuneasiness that Coupang could not afford them better accommodations, thehouseassignedtomebeingtheonlyoneuninhabitedandthesituationofthefewfamilies that lived at this place such that they could not conveniently receivestrangers. For the present till matters could be properly regulated he gavedirectionsthatvictualsformypeopleshouldbedressedathisownhouse.

On returning toCaptain Spikerman's house I found that every kind relief hadbeengiventomypeople.Thesurgeonhaddressedtheirsoresandthecleaningof theirpersonshadnotbeen lessattended to, several friendlygiftsofapparelhavingbeenpresentedtothem.

Idesiredtobeshowntothehousethatwasintendedforme,whichIfoundreadywithservantstoattend.Itconsistedofahall,witharoomateachend,andaloftoverhead;andwassurroundedbyapiazzawithanouterapartmentinonecornerandacommunication from thebackpartof thehouse to the street. I thereforedetermined, instead of separating frommypeople, to lodge them allwithme;andIdividedthehouseasfollows:oneroomItooktomyself,theotherIallotted

tothemaster,surgeon,Mr.Nelson,andthegunner;thelofttotheotherofficers,andtheouterapartmenttothemen.Thehallwascommontotheofficersandthemen had the back piazza.Of this disposition I informed the governor, and hesentdownchairs,tablesandbenches,withbeddingandothernecessariesfortheuseofeveryone.

The governor when I took my leave had desired me to acquaint him witheverythingofwhichIstoodinneed;but itwasonlyatparticular times thathehadafewmomentsofease,orcouldattendtoanything,beinginadyingstatewithanincurabledisease.OnthisaccountItransactedwhateverbusinessIhadwith Mr. Timotheus Wanjon, the second of this place, who was the yougovernor'sson-in-law,andwhoalsocontributedeverythinginhispowertomakeoursituationcomfortable.Ihadbeen,therefore,misinformedbytheseamanwhotoldmethatcaptainSpikermanwasthenextpersonincommandtothegovernor.

At noon a dinnerwas brought to the house sufficiently good tomake personsmoreaccustomedtoplentyeat toomuch.Yet Ibelievefewinsuchasituationwould have observed more moderation than my people did. My greatestapprehensionwasthat theywouldeat toomuchfruit,ofwhichtherewasgreatvarietyinseasonatthistime.

Having seen everyone enjoy this meal of plenty I dined myself with Mr.Wanjon;butIfeltnoextraordinaryinclinationtoeatordrink.RestandquietIconsideredasmorenecessarytothereestablishmentofmyhealthandthereforeretiredsoon tomyroomwhich I found furnishedwitheveryconvenience.Butinsteadofrestmymindwasdisposedtoreflectonourlatesufferings,andonthefailureoftheexpedition;butaboveallonthethanksduetoAlmightyGodwhohadgivenuspowertosupportandbearsuchheavycalamitiesandhadenabledmeatlasttobethemeansofsavingeighteenlives.

In times of difficulty there will generally arise circumstances that bearparticularlyhardonacommander.Inourlatesituationitwasnottheleastofmydistressestobeconstantlyassailedwiththemelancholydemandsofmypeoplefor an increase of allowance which it grieved me to refuse. The necessity ofobserving themost rigid economy in thedistributionofourprovisionswas soevidentthatIresistedtheirsolicitationsandneverdeviatedfromtheagreementwemadeatsettingout.Theconsequenceofthiscarewasthatatourarrivalwehadstillremainingsufficientforelevendaysatourscantyallowance:andifwehad been so unfortunate as to havemissed theDutch settlement at Timorwe

couldhaveproceededtoJavawhereIwascertainthateverysupplywewantedcouldbeprocured.

Another disagreeable circumstance towhichmy situation exposedmewas thecaprice of ignorant people. Had I been incapable of acting they would havecarried the boat on shore as soon as we made the island of Timor withoutconsidering that landing among the natives at a distance from the EuropeansettlementmighthavebeenasdangerousasamonganyotherIndians.

Thequantity of provisionswithwhichwe left the shipwas notmore thanweshouldhaveconsumedinfivedayshadtherebeennonecessityforhusbandingourstock.ThemutineersmustnaturallyhaveconcludedthatwecouldhavenootherplaceofrefugethantheFriendlyIslandsforitwasnotlikelytheyshouldimaginethat,sopoorlyequippedaswewereineveryrespect,therecouldhavebeen a possibility of our attempting to return homewards:much less can theysuspectthattheaccountoftheirvillainyhasalreadyreachedtheirnativecountry.

WhenIreflecthowprovidentiallyourlivesweresavedatTofoabytheIndiansdelayingtheirattackandthat,withscarceanythingtosupportlife,wecrossedasea of more than 1200 leagues, without shelter from the inclemency of theweather;when I reflect that in anopenboatwith somuch stormyweatherweescapedfoundering,thatnotanyofusweretakenoffbydisease,thatwehadthegreat good fortune to pass the unfriendly natives of other countries withoutaccident,andatlasthappilytomeetwiththemostfriendlyandbestofpeopletorelieve our distresses; I saywhen I reflect on all thesewonderful escapes theremembrance of such great mercies enables me to bear, with resignation andcheerfulness,thefailureofanexpeditionthesuccessofwhichIhadsomuchatheartandwhichwasfrustratedatatimewhenIwascongratulatingmyselfonthefairestprospectofbeingable tocomplete it inamanner thatwouldfullyhaveanswered the intention of His Majesty and the humane promoters of sobenevolentaplan.

With respect to the preservation of our health during a course of 16 days ofheavy and almost continual rain Iwould recommend to everyone in a similarsituationthemethodwepractisedwhichistodiptheirclothesinthesalt-waterandwring them out as often as they become filledwith rain: it was the onlyresourcewehad,andIbelievewasofthegreatestservicetous,foritfeltmorelikeachangeofdryclothesthancouldwellbeimagined.Wehadoccasiontodothissooftenthatatlengthallourclotheswerewrungtopieces:for,exceptthe

fewdayswepassedonthecoastofNewHolland,wewerecontinuallyweteitherwithrainorsea.

ThusthroughtheassistanceofDivineProvidencewesurmountedthedifficultiesanddistressesofamostperilousvoyageandarrivedsafe inanhospitableportwhereeverynecessaryandcomfortwereadministeredtouswithamostliberalhand.

TrackoftheBounty'sLaunchfromTofoatoTimorbyLt.WilliamBligh,1789.

CHAPTER18.AtCoupang.

JUNE1789.

TIMOR.

From the great humanity and attention of the governor and the gentlemen atCoupangwereceivedeverykindofassistanceandwerenotlongwithoutevidentsignsofreturninghealth.ShortlyafterourarrivalIpresentedtothegovernoraformalaccountofthelossoftheBounty;andarequisitioninHisMajesty'snamethatinstructionsmightbesenttoalltheDutchsettlementstostoptheshipifshemadeherappearance.Withthisacompletedescriptivelistofthemutineerswasgiven.

IlikewiserequestedinoneofmyfirstvisitstothegovernorthatNelsonmighthavepermissiontowalkaboutthecountryinsearchofplants,whichwasreadilygrantedwith anoffer ofwhatever assistance I should thinknecessary: and thegovernorassuredmethatthecountrywaswellworthexaminationasitaboundedwith many curious and medicinal plants. From this indulgence I derived nobenefit, for Nelson, who since we left New Holland had been but in a weakcondition, about this time was taken ill in consequence of a cold caused byimprudentlyleavingoffwarmclothing.

TosecureourarrivalatBataviabeforetheOctoberfleetsailedforEuropeIgavepublic notice of my intention to hire a vessel to carry us to Batavia. Inconsequence of this notice several offers were made but none that I thoughtreasonable;whichdeterminedmetopurchaseasmallschoonerintheroad,thatwas34feetlong,forwhichIgave1000rix-dollarsandfittedherforseaunderthenameofHisMajesty'sschoonerResource.AsthecoastofJavaisfrequentlyinfestedwithsmallpiraticalvesselsitwasnecessarythatweshouldbeprovidedwiththepropermeansofdefence.InthisIwasassistedbythefriendshipofMr.Wanjonwhosuppliedmewithfourbrassswivels,14standofsmallarms,andammunition,whichheobliginglyletmehaveasaloantobereturnedatBatavia.

July20.

Onthe20thofJulyIhadthemisfortunetoloseMr.DavidNelson:hediedofaninflammatoryfever.ThelossofthishonestmanIverymuchlamented:hehadwithgreatcareanddiligenceattendedtotheobjectforwhichhewassent,andhadalwaysbeenreadytoforwardeveryplanthatwasproposed,forthegoodofthe service inwhichwewere engaged.Hewas not less useful in our voyagehither,inthecourseofwhichhegavemegreatsatisfaction,bythepatienceandfortitudewithwhichheconductedhimself.

July21.

ThisdayIwasemployedattending the funeralofMr.Nelson.Thecorpsewascarried by twelve soldiers dressed in black preceded by the minister; nextfollowedmyselfand thesecondgovernor; then tengentlemenof the townandthe officers of the ships in the harbour; and after themmy own officers andpeople.

Afterreadingourburial-servicethebodywasinterredbehindthechapel,intheburying-groundappropriated to theEuropeansof the town.IwassorryIcouldgetnotombstonetoplaceoverhisremains.

This was the second voyage Mr. Nelson had undertaken to the South Seas,havingbeensentoutbySirJosephBankstocollectplants,seeds,etc.inCaptainCook'slastvoyage.Andnow,aftersurmountingsomanydifficulties,andinthemidstofthankfulnessforhisdeliverance,hewascalledupontopaythedebtofnatureatatimeleastexpected.

August20.

Ourschoonerbeingvictualledandreadyforsea,onthe20thofAugustItookanaffectionate leave of the hospitable and friendly inhabitants of Coupang andembarked. In the afternoon we sailed, having the launch which had so muchcontributedtoourpreservationin tow.Weexchangedsaluteswith thefortandshippingasweranoutoftheharbour.

The townofCoupang is situated inagreatbaywhich is anexcellent road forshipping.Thelatitudeofthetownis10degrees12minutessouth.AccordingtotheDutchchartsitisin121degrees51minuteseastlongitude.Takingthemeanbetween the longitude by my reckoning on our arrival at Coupang, and thelongitude afterwards calculated from our run to Batavia, gives me for thelongitudeofCoupang124degrees41minuteseast.

Thissettlementwasformedintheyear1630andistheonlyonetheDutchhaveontheislandTimor.Theyhaveresidentsindifferentpartsofthecountry.OnthenorthsideofTimorthereisaPortuguesesettlement.Theproduceoftheislandischiefly sandalwood and beeswax: the former article is now scarce.Wax theyhave ingreatplenty.Thebeesbuild theirnests inbushesand in theboughsoftrees towhichthenativescannotapproachbutwithfire.Thehoneyisput intojars and thewax is run into blocks of three feet in length and from 12 to 15inches square. The natives, at least those who live in the neighbourhood ofCoupang, are of a very indolent disposition, ofwhich theChinese have takenadvantage,for,thoughtheMalaysareveryfondoftraffic,mostoftheirtradeiscarried on in small Chinese vessels of from 10 to 30 tons burden. There is amarket at Coupang for the country people in which however there is littlebusiness done. I have seen aman from the country come tomarketwith twopotatoes: and this is not unusual. These being sold for two doits (equal to ahalfpennyEnglish)servetosupplyhimwithbeteltochew;andtheremainderofthedayispassedin loungingabout the town.Theinlandpeople,wholiveatadistancefromtheEuropeans,arestrongandactive,buttheirwantofcleanlinesssubjectsthemtofilthydiseases.

The chief of the natives, or king of the island, is by theDutch styledKeyfer(Emperor). This prince lives at a place called Backennassy, about four milesdistant fromCoupang.Hisauthorityover thenatives isnotwhollyundisputed;whichisbytheDutchattributedtotheintriguesofthePortuguese,whoareonthenorthpart ofTimor.The islandhas lately sufferedmuchby a competitionbetweenthepresentkingandoneofhisnephews,whichcausedacivilwarthatlastedfromthebeginningoftheyear1786to1788,whentheirdifferencesweresettledbyatreaty,chieflyinfavouroftheking.Theravagescommittedinthesedisputeshaveoccasionedascarcityofprovisionsthatprobably,fromthewantofindustry in the natives, will not soon be remedied. I had an opportunity ofmakingavisit to theking.Hisdwellingwasa largehousewhichwasdividedinto only three apartments and surrounded by a piazza, agreeably situated butverydirty,aswasallthefurniture.Theking,whoisanelderlyman,receivedmewithmuchcivilityandorderedrefreshmentstobesetbeforeme,whichweretea,rice cakes, roasted Indian corn, and dried buffalo flesh, with about a pint ofarrack,which I believewas all he had.His dresswas a checkwrapper girdedround his waist with a silk and gold belt, a loose linen jacket, and a coarsehandkerchiefabouthishead.Afewofhischiefswerewithhimwhopartookofourrepast;afterwhich thekingretiredwith threeof themforashort timeandwhen he returned presentedmewith a round plate ofmetal about four inches

diameteronwhichwasstampedthefigureofastar.AsIhadbeeninformedthatarrackwould be an acceptable present Iwas prepared tomake a returnwhichwaswellreceived.Theyneverdilutetheirliquorandfromhabitareabletodrinkalargequantityofspiritsatatimewithoutbeingintoxicated.

Whenakingdiesalargefeast ismadetowhichall theinhabitantsareinvited.Thebodyafterafewdaysisputintoacoffinwhichisclosedupandkeptthreeyearsbeforeitisinterred.

TheDutchhavebeenatsomepainstoestablishChristianityamongthenatives:but it has not gainedmuch ground, except in the neighbourhood ofCoupang.ThepresentkingwaschristenedbythenameofBarnardus.HisIndiannameisBachee Bannock. The scriptures are translated into the Malay language andprayersareperformedinthechurchatCoupangbyaMalayclergyman,inthatlanguage.

ImetatTimorwithmostofthefruitsthataredescribedinCaptainCook'sfirstvoyageasnativesofBatavia,exceptthemangosteen.Thebreadfruittree,calledbytheMalayssoccoom,likewisegrowsherewithgreatluxurianceandappearstobeasmuchanativeofthisislandasitisofOtaheite.Thefruitisexactlyofthesamekindbutnotsogood.AbreadfruitofTimorweighshalfasmuchmoreasoneofequalsizeatOtaheite.Itisnotusedhereasbreadbutgenerallyeatenwithmilkandsugar.AtBackennassyIsawabouttwentyofthetrees,largerthananyIhaveseenatOtaheite.Hereisalsoasortofbreadfruittreethatproducesseedsnot unlike Windsor beans and equally palatable either boiled or roasted. Nootherpartofthefruitiseatableand,thoughthetreeIamtoldistoallappearancethesameastheother,thefruitshavebutlittleresemblance,thefruitofthisbeingcoveredwithprojectingpointsnearlyhalfaninchinlength.

I received a present of some fine plants from the governor, which I wasafterwardsunfortunatelyobligedtoleaveatBataviaforwantofproperroomtotake care of them in the packet by which I returned to Europe. Mr.WanjonlikewisefavouredmewithsomeseedsforHisMajesty'sgardenatKewwhichIhadthegoodfortunetodeliversafeonmyreturn:andsomeofthemountainricecultivated at Timor on the dry land, which was forwarded to His Majesty'sbotanicgardenatSt.Vincent,andtootherpartsintheWestIndies.

AresemblanceoflanguagebetweenthepeopleoftheSouthSeaislandsandtheinhabitants of many of the islands in the East Indies has been remarked in

CaptainCook's first voyage.Here the resemblance appeared stronger than hasyet been noticed; particularly in their numerals. But besides the language IobservedsomecustomsamongthepeopleofTimorstillmorestrikingfortheirsimilarity.Theypractisethetooge-tooge*oftheFriendlyIslandswhichtheycalltoombock: and the roomee ofOtaheitewhich they call ramas. I likewise saw,placedontheirgraves,offeringsofbasketswithtobaccoandbetel.

(*Footnote.Thetooge-toogeisdescribedinCaptainCook'slastvoyageVolume1page323;andtheroomeeinthesamevoyageVolume2page64.)

IleftthegovernorMr.vanEsteatthepointofdeath.Tothisgentlemanourmostgrateful thanksareduefor thehumaneandfriendly treatment thatwereceivedfrom him. His ill state of health only prevented him from showing us moreparticularmarksofattention.UnhappilyitistohismemoryonlythatInowpaythistribute.ItwasafortunatecircumstanceforusthatMr.Wanjon,thenextinplacetothegovernor,wasequallyhumaneandreadytorelieveus.Hisattentionwasunremittingand,whentherewasadoubtaboutsupplyingmewithmoneytoenable me to purchase a vessel, he cheerfully took it upon himself; withoutwhich itwasevident, I shouldhavebeen too lateatBatavia tohavesailed forEuropewiththeOctoberfleet.Icanonlyreturnsuchservicesbyeverretainingagratefulremembranceofthem.

Mr.Max the town surgeon likewisebehaved touswith themost disinterestedhumanity: he attended everyone with the utmost care, for which I could notprevail on him to receive anypayment, or to renderme any account, or otheranswerthanthatitwashisduty.

CHAPTER19.FromTimortoBatavia.

AUGUST1789.

Thursday20.

From Coupang we steered north-west by west having a moderate breeze atsouth-eastwithfairweather.

Saturday22.

AtdaylightwesawtheislandFlorestothenorthward.Atnoonlatitudeobserved9degrees27minutessouth,andlongitudebyaccountfromCoupang2degrees10minuteswest.Ourdistance from the coast ofFloreswas about10 leagues;andtwohighpeakedmountainsborenorthhalfeastandnorth-north-west.Thesetwomountainsresembleeachotherinshapeandthewesternmostisavolcano.TheinteriorpartsofFloresaremountainousandwoody:butnearthesea-coastisafineopencountry.ADutchmapwithwhichIwasprovidedplaces thesouthpart of Flores in 9 degrees 3minutes southwhich I am of opinion is too farsouth.We steered along the south side ofFlores,mostlywith lightwinds andhazyweather,sothatwedidnotconstantlykeepsightofthecoast.

Tuesday25.

AtnoonwewereoffToornsislandwhichborenorth-westbynorththreeorfourleagues distant. Our latitude observed was 8 degrees 57 minutes south andlongitudemade by dead reckoning fromCoupang 3 degrees 27minuteswest.Toorns island is about four leagues in circuit and has a craggy and unevenappearance.There isacurioushighpeakon thesouth-westpart: the landneartheshoreislowandwoody.

Thursday27.

Onthe27thatnoonwewereneartheentranceoftheStraitsofMangaryn,whichnot appearing so open and clear as represented in the map, I steered for the

straitsofSapi,intendingtopassthrough;butwasobligedtogiveupthisplanbystrongcurrentssetting to thesouth-eastwhich therewasnotsufficientwind toenableustostem.

Saturday29.

IthereforeagainstoodfortheStraitsofMangarynwhichweranthroughintheafternoonofthe29th,beingfavouredwithafreshbreezefromthesouth-south-east.OnourfirstenteringthestraitswegotclosetotheFloresshore:ourcoursethroughwasnorthhalfeast.Wetriedforsoundingsbutcouldnotanywherefindbottom at 25 and 30 fathoms depth. On the Flores side there are many goodharboursandbayswherevesselsmayanchor;butthecountryhereaboutsappearsburntupanddesolate.

Ihadnoazimuth-compassandconsequentlycouldnotobserveveryaccuratelythe variation; but I believe there is so little inMangaryn Straits that no greaterrorwillbeoccasionedbyconsideringthetrueandmagneticbearingstobethesame.

Whenwehadpassedthestraitswekepttothewestward,runningalongthenorthsideoftheislandSumbawa,wherethereisaveryhighmountainnearthecoast,atthefootofwhichIaminformed,aremanyrunsofgoodwater,convenientlysituated for ships to supply themselves. The latitude of the north part ofSumbawa Imake bymyobservations and bearings to be 8 degrees 6minutessouth,whichdiffersverylittlefromtheDutchcharts.

Monday31.

Inthenightofthe31stseveralprowswererowingaboutus,onwhichaccountwekeptallnightunderarms.

September.Thursday3.

This and the two following days we were sailing along the north side of theislandLombok,onwhich isahighmountain.Mostof the islands in this routeare distinguishedbyhighmountains.Lombok appears to bewell clothedwithwood.Inthenightswesawfiresuponthehighlandsatadistancefromthecoast.

Sunday6.

IntheafternoonwesawthehighlandofCapeSandana,whichisthenorth-eastpartofJava.

Monday7.

ThenextdaywewereoffcapeSandanawhichisalowcapeprojectingfromthehighlandalreadymentioned.ThiscapeisplacedbytheDutchmapsin7degrees52minutes south.Butaccording tomyobservationandourestimateddistancefromthelandImakeitin7degrees46minutessouthlatitude.ThelongitudebymydeadreckoningfromCoupangtoCapeSandanawas11degrees33minuteswest.

Thursday10.

WesteeredtothewestwardalongthecoastofJavaandonthe10thatnoonweanchored off Passourwang, a Dutch settlement on the coast of Java, in twofathoms,distant from theshorehalfa league, theentranceof the riverbearingsouth-west. The coast hereabouts so is shoal that large ships are obliged toanchorthreeorfourmilesfromtheland.AssoonaswewereatanchorIgotinmyboatandwentonshore.Thebanksoftheriverneartheentranceweremud,onwhichgrewafewmangrovebushes.Amongthemwesawhogsrunningandmanywerelayingdeadinthemud,whichcausedamostintolerablestenchandmademeheartilyrepenthavingcomehere;butafterproceedingaboutamileuptheriver,thecourseofwhichwasserpentine,wefoundaverypleasantcountryand landed at a small and well-constructed fort, where I was received in afriendly and polite manner by M. Adrian van Rye, the commandant. By thereturnoftheboatIsentonboardasmallbullockandotherprovisions.IlikewisetookapilottoconductustoSourabaya.

ThehousesatPassourwangareneatlybuiltand thecountryappears tobewellcultivated. The produce of this settlement is rice, of which they export largequantities.Therearebut fewDutchhere: the Javanesearenumerousand theirchief lives with considerable splendour. They have good roads and posts areestablished along the coast; and it appears to be a busy and well-regulatedsettlement.Latitude7degrees36minutessouth.Longitude1degree44minuteswestofCapeSandana.

Friday11.

Thenextdayaboutnoonwesailed.

Saturday12.

Andon the12th in theeveninganchored inSourabaya road inseven fathoms:the flagstaffbearingsouthonequarterwest;distance from the shoreonemile.Wefoundridingheresevensquare-riggedandseveralsmallervessels.

Itwastoolatewhenweanchoredtosendaboatonshore.

Sunday13.

Thenextmorningbeforedaylightthreeguard-boatsstationedthemselvesnearusandIwasinformedthatImustnotlandorsendaboatonshore.ThisrestrictionIlearnt from the officer of the guard-boatswas in conformity to general ordersconcerningallstrangevesselsontheirfirstarrival.Atnineintheforenoonleavecameoffforustolandandsoonaftertheguard-boatsquittedus.

I was received on shorewith great civility and friendship by the governor orOpperhoostM.Ant.Barkay,andthecommandantofthetroopsM.deBose.BythesegentlemenIwashospitablyentertained,andadvisedtoremaintillthe16thwhensomevesselsweretosail,withwhomImightkeepcompany,whichtheyrecommendedonaccountofpirates.

Sourabaya is one of themost pleasant places I ever saw. It is situated on thebanksofariverandisamileandahalfdistantfromtheseashoresothatonlytheflagstaff can be seen from the road.The river is navigable up to the town forvessels of 100 tons burden, and the bank on one side ismade convenient fortracking. TheChinese carry on a considerable trade here, and have a town orcamponthesideoftheriveroppositetoSourabaya.Thecountrynearthetownis flat and the soil light, so that they plow with a single bullock or buffalo(karrabow). The interior parts of the country near the mountains are infestedwith a breed of fierce tigers, which makes travelling inland very dangerous.Theyhavehere a breedof horseswhich are small but they are handsomeandstrong.

TheJavanese in thisneighbourhoodarenumerous.M.BarkayandM.deBosetookmewiththemtopayavisittotwooftheprincipalnatives,whomwefoundattendedbyanumberofmenarmedwithpikesingreatmilitaryorder.Wewereentertainedwithaconcertofmusic; the instrumentsweregongs,drums,andafiddlewith twostrings. Ihiredapilothere tocarryus toBatavia.Our latitudeobserved inSourabaya roadwas 7 degrees 11minutes south.Longitudemade

fromCapeSandana1degree52minuteswest.

Thursday17.

Onthe17thwesailedfromSourabayaincompanywiththreeprows.AtnoonweanchoredatCrisseywhich isa townwitha small fortbelonging to theDutch.We remained here about two hours and then weighed. Latitude of Crissey 7degrees 9minutes south. Longitude fromCape Sandana 1 degree 55minuteswest.

Thenavigation through theStraitsofMadura is so intricate thatwith the littleopportunityIhadIamunabletoundertakeadescriptionofit.

Friday18.

Thenextday,havingpassedthestraits,weboreawaytothewestwardalongthecoastofJavaincompanywiththeprowsbeforementioned.

Tuesday22.

WehadregularsoundingsallthewaytoSamarang,offwhichplaceweanchoredon the22nd in the afternoon; the churchbearing south-east; distance from theshorehalfaleague:depthofwatertwofathoms.Theshoalnessofthecoastheremakes the road of Samarang very inconvenient, both on account of the greatdistancethatlargeships(ofwhichtherewereseveralintheroad)areobligedtolayfromtheshore,andofthelandingwhichisinariverthatcannotbeenteredbeforehalf-flood.ThisriverresemblestheoneatPassourwang,theshoresbeinglowwithoffensivedeadanimalslayingabout.Iwasmetatthelanding-placebythe equipage-master, and he furnished me with a carriage to carry me to thegovernor, whose residence is about two miles from the town of Samarang. Irequestedandobtainedleavetohaveourwantssupplied,whichweretorecruitour provisions, and to get a anymainmast, having sprung ours in the passagefromSourabaya.

Samarang is a fortified town surrounded by awall and ditch, and is themostconsiderable settlement next toBatavia that theDutchhave in Java.Here is avery good hospital and a public school, chiefly for teaching themathematics.Theyhavelikewiseatheatre.Provisionsareremarkablycheaphere,beefbeingattendoitsperpoundandthepriceofafowl12doits.

I experienced great civility from some of the gentlemen at Samarang,particularlyfromM. leBarondeBose,amerchant,brother to theM.deBose,commandantofthetroopsatSourabaya:andfromM.Abegg,thesurgeonofthehospital, to whom we were indebted for advice and medicines for which hewouldnotconsenttoreceivepayment.

ThelatitudeofSamarangis6degrees57minutes.LongitudebymyreckoningfromCapeSandana4degrees7minuteswest.

Saturday26.

Onthe26thwesailedfromSamarangandwithusagalleymountingsixswivelswhichthegovernorhaddirectedtoaccompanyustoBatavia.

October.Thursday1.

On the 1st ofOctoberwe anchored inBatavia road,wherewe found riding aDutchshipofwarand20sailofDutchEastIndiaships,besidesmanysmallervessels.

CHAPTER20.OccurrencesatBataviaandPassagethencetoEngland.

OCTOBER1789.

In the afternoon at four o'clock Iwent on shore and landed at a house by theriverwherestrangersfirststopandgiveanaccountwhotheyare,whencetheycame,etc.FromthisplaceaMalaygentlemantookmeinacarriagetoSabandar,Mr.Engelhard,whosehousewasintheenvironsofthecityonthesidenearesttheshipping.TheSabandaristheofficerwithwhomallstrangersareobligedtotransacttheirbusiness:atleastthewholemustgothroughhishands.WithhimIwent to paymy respects to the governor-general who receivedmewith greatcivility.IacquaintedhisexcellencywithmysituationandrequestedmypeoplemightbetakencareofandthatweshouldbeallowedtotakeapassagetoEuropeinthefirstshipthatsailed.Ilikewisedesiredpermissiontoselltheschoonerandlaunch.Allthishisexcellencytoldmeshouldbegranted.IthentookleaveandreturnedwiththeSabandarwhowrotedowntheparticularsofmywantsinordertoformfromthemaregularpetitiontobepresentedtothecouncilthenextday.IhadbroughtfromthegovernorofCoupang,directedforthegovernor-generalatBatavia,theaccountofmyvoyageandmisfortune,translatedintoDutchfromanaccountthatIhadgiventoMr.vanEste.SoattentivehadtheybeenatTimortoeverythingthatrelatedtous.

There isa largehotelatBatavia fitteduppurposely for theaccommodationofstrangers,whoarenotallowedtoresideatanyotherplace.Itissituatednearthegreat river in a part of the city that is reckoned the most airy and healthy.Nevertheless I found theairhot and suffocatingandwas taken ill in thenightwithaviolentpaininmyhead.

Friday2.

The nextmorning at nine the council sat and I attended, accompanied by theSabandar; and was informed that the council had complied with all I hadrequested.

WhenIreturnedtothehotelmyheadacheincreasedandaviolentfevercameon.

Isent toacquaint theSabandarofmysituationandwassoonafterattendedbytheheadsurgeonofthetownhospitalMr.Aansorp,bywhosecareandskill inless than 24 hours the fever considerably abated but a severe headachecontinued.Ihadaninvitationfromthegovernor-generaltodinewithhim,whichofcourseIwasobligedtodecline.

Ihireda carriagewhichcost threedollarsperday for thebenefit of takinganairing.MylodgingsatthehotelweresocloseandhotthatIdesiredtheSabandartoapplytotheGovernor-Generalforleavetohireahouseinthecountry;whichrequesthisexcellencynotonly immediatelycompliedwithbutgavedirectionsformy being accommodated at the house of the physician or surgeon-generalMr.Sparling.

Oneofmypeople,ThomasHall,beingillwithafluxIobtainedleaveforhimtobesenttothecountryhospitalwhichisaconvenientairybuilding.

Tuesday6.

ThismorningatsunriseIleftthehotelandwascarriedtoMr.Sparling'shouse,aboutfourmilesdistantfromthecityandneartheconvalescenthospitalwhichatthistimehadalsosickmeninit,thewholenumberofpatientsamountingto800.Ifoundeverythingpreparedformycomfortandconvenience.Mr.SparlingwouldsuffermetotakenomedicinethoughIhadstillconsiderablefeverwithheadache:but I found somuch relief from thedifferenceof the air that in theeveningIwasabletoaccompanyMr.Sparlingonavisittothegovernor-generalatoneofhiscountryseats,wherewefoundmanyladiesalldressedintheMalayfashion, some of them richly ornamented with jewels. I had invitations fromseveral gentlemen and some very kindly pressed me to make their countryhousesmyabodetillmyhealthshouldbereestablished.

Myindispositionincreasing,Mr.SparlingadvisedmetoquitBataviaasspeedilyas possible and represented the necessity of it to the governor-general. I wasinformed from his excellency that the homeward-bound ships were so muchcrowdedthat therewouldbenopossibilityofallmypeoplegoinginoneship,andthattheycouldbeaccommodatednootherwaythanbydividingthemintodifferentships.SeeingthereforethataseparationwasunavoidableIdeterminedtofollowtheadviceofthephysicianand,asapacketwasappointedtosailforEurope on the 16th instant, I sent to request of the governor that I might beallowedto takeapassage inher formyselfandasmanyofmypeopleas they

were able to receive. In answer to this I was acquainted thatmyself and twomore could be accommodated in the packet, she being too small to admit agreater number; but that I might rest assured of passages being provided forthosethatremainedbytheearliestopportunities.

Friday9.

ThisdayanchoredintheroadtheGeneralElliot,anEnglishshipcommandedbyCaptainLloyd.IntheStraitsofBancahehadmetwithsomeboatsbelongingtotheEastIndiaCompany'sshipVansittartthatwaslostinthestraitsofBillatonbyhaving struck on a rock that went through her bottom. CaptainWilson, whocommanded theVansittart, Iwas informedhad just finished a surveyof thoseStraits and was hoisting his boat in when the ship struck. Immediately onreceivingtheintelligenceCaptainLloyd,intheGeneralElliotandanothershipincompanycalled theNonsuch,sailedfor thewreck.Theyfound theshiphadbeen burnt down to the water's edge by theMalays. They however saved 40chestsoftreasureoutof55whichweresaidtohavebeenonboard.Mostoftheship'scompanyweresaved:onemanonlywaslostintheship,andfiveothersina small boat were missing who were supposed to have taken some of thetreasure.ThegreaterpartofthepeoplewentwithCaptainWilsontoChina,andsomewerewithCaptainLloyd.

Saturday10.

ThismorningtheResourcewassoldbypublicauction:thecustomatBataviaistobeginhighandtolowerthepricetillsomepersonbids;andthefirstbidderisthe buyer. She was accordingly put up at 2000 rix-dollars but to my greatdisappointmentnooneofferedtopurchasebeforetheauctioneerhadloweredthedemandto295rix-dollars,forwhichpriceshewassold,thepurchaserbeinganEnglishman,CaptainJohnEddie,whocommandedanEnglishshipfromBengal.IfnostrangershadbeenpresentatthesaleIimaginetheywouldhaveletherrundownto200dollars,inwhichcaseIshouldhavehadnoalternative.

The launch likewisewassold.Theservices shehad renderedusmademe feelgreatreluctanceatpartingwithher;whichIwouldnothavedoneifIcouldhavefoundaconvenientopportunityofgettingherconveyedtoEurope.

Little as the schoonerhad sold for I found Iwas indangerofhaving the sumlessened;fortheSabandarinformedmethatbyanorderofthecounciltherewas

adutyonthesaleofallvessels.WiththisdemandIwouldbynomeanscomplyforIthoughtIhadsufficientlysufferedinsustainingalossof705rix-dollarsoutof1000bythepurchaseandsaleofthevessel,shehavingcost1000rix-dollars.

ThisdayThomasHall,whomIhadsenttobetakencareofatthehospital,died.HehadbeenillofafluxfromthetimeofourarrivalatTimor.

Monday12.

Iagreedwith thecaptainof thepacketforapassagetoEuropeformyself,myclerk, and a servant. The Sabandar informed me it was necessary that myofficersandpeopleshouldbeexaminedbeforeanotaryrespectingthelossoftheBounty, as otherwise the governor and council were not legally authorised todetain her if she should be found in any of theDutch settlements. Theyweretherefore at my desire examined, and afterwards made affidavit before thegovernorandcouncilattheStadthouse.

My officers complaining to me of the unreasonableness of some tradesmen'sbillsIspoketotheSabandar.Abillof51dollarsforfivehatshereducedto30dollarsandinotherarticlesmadeproportionabledeductions.

PapermoneyisthecurrencyofBataviaandissounderstoodinallbargains.Atthistimepaperwasat28percentdiscount:thereislikewiseadifferenceinthevalue of the ducatoon which at Batavia is 80 stivers and in Holland only 63stivers: this occasions a loss of 21 1/4 per cent on remittance of money. ItthereforefollowsthatifanypersonatBataviaremitsmoneybybillsofexchangetoEuropetheylosebythediscountandtheexchange491/4percent.

ThosewhohaveaccountstopayandcangiveunexceptionablebillsonEuropewillfindaconsiderablesavingbynegotiatingtheirbillswithprivatepeoplewhoaregladtogiveforthemapremiumof20percentattheleast.ThisdiscoveryImadesomewhattoolatetoprofitby.

One of the greatest difficulties that strangers have to encounter is their beingobligedtoliveatthehotel.Thishotelwasformerlytwohouseswhichbydoorsof communication have been made one. It is in the middle of a range ofbuildingsmorecalculatedforacoldcountrythanforsuchaclimateasBatavia.Thereisnofreecirculationofairandwhatisequallybaditisalwaysverydirty;and there is great want of attendance. What they call cleaning the house isanothernuisance;fortheyneveruseanywatertocoolitortolaythedust,but

sweep dailywith brooms in such amanner that those in the house are almostsuffocatedbyacloudofdust.

ThemonthsofDecember and January are reckoned themost unhealthyof theyear,theheavyrainsbeingthensetin.TheaccountoftheseasonsasgiventomehereIbelievemaybereliedon.

ThemiddleofNovemberthewestmonsoonbeginsandrain.

DecemberandJanuary.Continualrainwithstrongwesterlywind.

February.Westerlywind.Towardstheendofthismonththerainbeginstoabate.

March.Intervalsoffineweather.Windwesterly.

April. In this month the east monsoon begins. Weather generally fine withshowersofrain.

May.Eastmonsoonfixed.Showery.

JuneandJuly.Clearweather.Strongeastwind.

AugustandSeptember.Windmoremoderate.

October.Inthismonththewindbeginstobevariablewithshowersofrain.

Thecurrentissaidalwaystorunwiththewind.NeverthelessIfoundthereverseinsailingfromTimortoJava.BetweentheendofOctoberandthebeginningoftheensuingyearnoDutchshipboundforEuropeisallowedtosailfromBataviafor fear of being near the Mauritius at the time of the hurricanes which arefrequentthereinDecemberandJanuary.

My illness prevented me from gaining much knowledge of Batavia. Of theirpublicbuildingsIsawnothingthatgavemesomuchsatisfactionastheircountryhospitalforseamen.Itisalargecommodiousandairybuildingaboutfourmilesfromthetown,closetothesideoftheriver,orratherintheriver:forthegroundonwhichitstandshasbylabourbeenmadeanislandof,andthesickarecarriedthere inaboat:eachward isaseparatedwellingand thedifferentdiseasesareproperly classed. They have sometimes 1400 patients in it: at this time therewere 800, but more than half of these were recovered and fit for service, of

whom300weredestinedforthefleetthatwastosailforEurope.Iwentthroughmost of the wards and there appeared great care and attention. The sheets,bedding,and linenof thesickwereperfectlyneatandclean.Thehouseof thephysician, Mr. Sparling, who has the management of the hospital is at oneextremityofthebuilding:andhereitwasthatIresided.Totheattentionandcareof this gentleman, for which he would receive no payment, I am probablyindebtedformylife.

Thehospitalinthetowniswellattended,butthesituationissoillchosenthatitcertainlywouldbethesavingofmanylivestobuildoneinitssteaduptheriver,which might be done with great advantage as water carriage is so easy andconvenient.Agreatneglectinsomeofthecommandersoftheshippingherewassufferingtheirpeopletogodirtyandfrequentlywithoutfrock,shirt,oranythingtocovertheirbodies,which,besidesbeingapublicnuisance,mustprobablybeproductiveofillhealthinthemostrobustconstitution.

The governor-general gave me leave to lodge all my people at the countryhospitalwhichI thoughtagreatadvantageandwithwhichtheywereperfectlysatisfied.Theofficershoweverattheirownrequestremainedinthetown.

Thetimefixedfor thesailingof thepacketapproaching, Isettledmyaccountswith the Sabandar, leaving open the victualling account to be closed by Mr.Fryerthemasterprevioustohisdeparture,whoI likewiseauthorisedtosupplythemen and officers left under his commandwith onemonth's pay to enablethemtopurchaseclothingfortheirpassagetoEngland.

Ihadbeenatgreatpains tobring livingplants fromTimor, in six tubs,whichcontained jacks, nancas, karambolas, namnams, jambos, and three thrivingbreadfruit plants. These I thought might be serviceable at the Cape of GoodHopeifbroughtnofarther:butIhadthemortificationofbeingobligedtoleavethem all at Batavia. I took these plants on board at Coupang on the 20th ofAugust: they had experienced a passage of 42 days to my arrival here. Thebreadfruit plants died to the root and sprouted afresh from thence. Thekarambolas, jacks, nancas, and namnams I had raised from the seed and theywere in fine order. No judgment can hence be formed of the success oftransportingplants,asinthepresenttrialtheyhadmanydisadvantages.

Friday16.

ThismorningbeingsunriseIembarkedonboardtheVlydtepacketcommandedbyCaptainPeterCouvret,boundforMiddleburgh.WithmelikewiseembarkedMr.JohnSamwell,clerk,andJohnSmith,seaman.Thoseofourcompanywhostayedbehindthegovernorpromisedmeshouldfollowinthefirstshipsandbeaslittledividedaspossible.At7o'clockthepacketweighedandsailedoutoftheroad.

Sunday18.

On the 18th we spoke the Rambler, an American brig belonging to Boston,boundtoBatavia.AfterpassingtheStraitsofSundawesteeredtothenorthoftheCocosIsles.Theseislands,CaptainCouvretinformedme,arefullofcoconuttrees:thereisnoanchoragenearthembutgoodlandingforboats.Theirlatitude12degrees0minutessouth.Longitude96degrees5minuteseast.

InthepassagetotheCapeofGoodHopethereoccurrednothingworthremark.IcannothoweverforbearnoticingtheDutchmannerofnavigating.Theysteerbytruecompass,orratherendeavoursotodo,bymeansofasmallmovablecentralcard,which theyset to themeridian:andwhenever theydiscover thevariationhasaltered21/2degreessincethelastadjustmenttheyagaincorrectthecentralcard. This is steering within a quarter of a point, without aiming at greaterexactness.Theofficerofthewatchlikewisecorrectsthecourseforleewaybyhisownjudgmentbeforeitismarkeddowninthelogboard.Theyheavenolog:Iwastoldthatthecompanydonotallowit.Theirmannerofcomputingtheirrunis bymeansof ameasureddistanceof 40 feet along the ship's side: they takenoticeofanyremarkablepatchoffrothwhenitisabreasttheforemostendofthemeasureddistance, and count half seconds till themarkof froth is abreast theafterend.Withthenumberofhalfsecondsthusobtainedtheydividethenumber48,takingtheproductfortherateofsailingingeographicalmilesinonehour,orthenumberofDutchmilesinfourhours.

Itisnotusualtomakeanyallowancetothesun'sdeclinationonaccountofbeingon a different meridian from that for which the tables are calculated: they ingeneralcomputewiththenumbersjustas theyarefoundinthetable.FromallthisitisnotdifficulttoconceivethereasonwhytheDutcharefrequentlyaboveten degrees out in their reckoning. Their passages likewise are considerablylengthenedbynotcarryingasufficientquantityofsail.

December16.

IntheafternoonweanchoredinTableBay.

December17.

The next morning I went on shore and waited on his excellency M. VanderGraafwho receivedme in themostpoliteand friendlymanner.TheGuardian,commandedbyLieutenantRiou,hadlefttheCapeabouteightdaysbeforewithcattleandstoresforPortJackson.ThisdayanchoredintablebaytheAstree,aFrenchfrigate,commandedbytheCountdeSt.RivelfromtheIsleofFrance,onboardofwhichshipwasthelategovernor,theChevalierd'Entrecasteaux.Otherships thatarrivedduringmystayat theCapewereaFrench40-gunfrigate,anEastIndiaship,andabrig,ofthesamenation:likewisetwootherFrenchshipswith slaves from the coastofMozambiquebound to theWest Indies: aDutchpacket fromEurope, after a fourmonths passage: and theHarpy, aSouthSeaWhalerwith500barrelsofspermaceti,and400ofsealandotheroils.ThereisastandingorderfromtheDutchEastIndiaCompanythatnopersonwhotakesapassagefromBataviaforEuropeinanyoftheirshipsshallbeallowedtoleavetheshipbeforeshearrivesatherintendedport.AccordingtowhichregulationImusthavegone toHolland in thepacket.Of this Iwasnot informedtill Iwastakingleaveofthegovernor-generalatBatavia,whenitwastoolateforhimtogive the Captain an order to permit me to land in the channel. He howeverdesired Iwouldmakeuseofhisname togovernorVanderGraaf,who readilycompliedwithmy request andgave thenecessaryorders to theCaptainof thepacket, a copy of which his excellency gave to me; and at the same timerecommendatoryletterstopeopleofconsequenceinHollandincaseIshouldbeobligedtoproceedsofar.

IleftaletterattheCapeofGoodHopetobeforwardedtogovernorPhillipsatPortJacksonby thefirstopportunity,containingashortaccountofmyvoyagewith a descriptive list of the pirates: and from Batavia I had written to LordCornwallis,sothateverypartofIndiawillbepreparedtoreceivethem.

Saturday2.

Wesailed fromtheCape incompanywith theAstreeFrenchfrigate.Thenextmorningneithershipnorlandwereinsight.Onthe15thwepassedinsightofthe island St. Helena. The 21st we saw the islandAscension. On the 10th ofFebruary, the wind being at north-east blowing fresh, our sails were coveredwithafineorange-coloureddust.Fuego,thewesternmostoftheCapedeVerde

islandsandthenearestlandtousonthatdayatnoonborenorth-eastbyeasthalfeast, distance 140 leagues. When we had passed the latitude of the WesternIslands a lookout was kept for some rocks which Captain Couvret had beeninformedlayinlatitude44degrees25minutesnorthand2degrees50minuteseast longitude from the east end of St. Michael. This information CaptainCouvret had received from a person that he knew and who said he had seenthem.Onthe13thofMarchwesawtheBillofPortlandandontheeveningofthe next day, Sunday March the 14th, I left the packet and was landed atPortsmouthbyanIsleofWightboat.

Those of my officers and people whom I left at Batavia were provided withpassagesintheearliestships;andatthetimewepartedwereapparentlyingoodhealth. Nevertheless they did not all live to quit Batavia. Mr. Elphinstone,master's mate, and Peter Linkletter, seaman, died within a fortnight after mydeparture,thehardshipstheyhadexperiencedhavingrenderedthemunequaltocopewithsounhealthyaclimateasthatofBatavia.TheremainderembarkedonboardtheDutchfleetforEurope,andarrivedsafeatthiscountry,exceptRobertLamb,whodiedonthepassage,andMr.Ledwardthesurgeonwhohasnotyetbeen heard of. Thus of nineteen who were forced by the mutineers into thelaunch it has pleased God that twelve should surmount the difficulties anddangersofthevoyageandlivetorevisittheirnativecountry.

TheEnd

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