After just 48 hours at Reilly’s Rock, you may believe that you’ve

been transported to a fairy tale or into a historical novel. Join us in this

secret garden in Mlilwane, Swaziland. By Cheryl-Samantha Owen

PARADISE? The lush and shady garden at Reilly’s Rock creates a sense of well-being.

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DAY 1: Check In

When I arrived at Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, the light was thick with Af-rican gold, that magical

time of the day minutes before the sun drops below the horizon. Winding my way up the road, I passed a restricted area signposted as the ‘Roan Antelope Enclosure’ and further on another sign heralding my entry to the Royal Botanic Gardens. Up and up I continued, past grazing zebra, waterbuck and impala to what felt like a kingdom within Swazi-land’s kingdom. Under a canopy of leaves I arrived at Reilly’s Rock Hilltop Lodge. A quick glance at the visitors book revealed the secret of this place: “When you die, you don’t need to go to Heaven, because you’re already here.”

Indeed the place exuded peace. Mlil-wane, after all, is situated in Swaziland’s Ezulwini Valley, the ‘Valley of Heavens’,

and Reilly’s Rock is a real home away from home, the perfect place to relax. The house, once the homestead of Mickey Reilly, is a vestige of colonial Africa. It was built in the early 1900s in the old English style, using stone that was ex-changed for an ox-wagon. With wide verandas and beautiful wooden floors, it evokes a feeling of Elspeth Huxley, the writer about early colonial days in Kenya.

There are six en-suite rooms, all bright and breezy, a step away from the green grass and botanical trails beyond. Flame trees adorn the driveway and a giant, ancient jacaranda tree spreads over the house and garden, sending shafts of light dancing across the lawn. The four other guests were also tuned into the feel of the place. An Englishman, Peter Boldon, told me: “It is the only place I have ever sat still for four hours.”

The interiors at Reilly’s Rock have recently been refurbished and are even more inviting.

The large veranda is an idyllic spot to sit quietly and enjoy the sense of peace. Break-fast is served on the adjacent sun deck.

The father of conservation in Swazi-land, Ted Reilly, turned his childhood home into Reilly’s Rock lodge.

Reilly’s Rock is situated on a hilltop with views

of the surrounding hills.

“It is the only place I have ever sat still for four hours.” – Peter Boldon

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DAY 2: Explore

From dawn the next morning until the sun shone fierce, I sat silently behind my camera and zoom lens, mesmerised by the

characters nibbling in the garden. If Hans Christian Andersen had visited Reilly’s it would have fuelled his imagination forever. Blue duiker were the first to ap-pear, walking the stage with confidence as they sampled a smorgasbord of juicy green leaves. From the wings red duiker took their cue and gingerly stepped into the open garden from one of the many hidden paths in the undergrowth made by tiny hooves. They didn’t stay long, but there was always a whisper of their reap-pearance nearby. Suni and klipspringer also emerged. Klipspringer are known for their antics on the bird-feeding table, much to the delight of the Boldons, who watched them and the sun-worshipping crested guineafowl through the open French doors of their bedroom.

While I tried to follow these little an-telope by creeping along on my stomach, Ted Reilly sipped a mug of steaming cof-fee from his writing desk on the veranda. He grew up here and no doubt uncovered all the garden’s secrets as a youngster. I had met this legendary conservation figure the night before. He humbly intro-duced himself to the guests as “Ted”, but quickly had me engaged in a discussion about the ivory debate.

After all the animals had bid their farewells for the morning, Ted took me on a tour around the game sanctuary. Sanctuary is the perfect word to describe the 4 560 hectares of land here, for sev-eral reasons. For a start, 24 pythons were removed from a 70-hectare area encom-passing Mlilwane Hill, which is enclosed

with a predator-proof fence. The small antelope still have to watch their backs for eagles, caracal, leopard and baboons, but they are also safe from dogs and jackals.

This effort to protect the animals is part of an endangered and threatened species propagation project within the sanctuary. The roan antelope breeding programme started in 2002 is well on its way to restoring viable populations of the species to the kingdom.

A ranger quietly guided us to a roan calf that was less than a week old, curled up and hiding in the tall grass. “They make terrible mothers, and often leave the calves for hours on end while they wander off grazing. But this one will be fine,” said Ted. Other animals I met were red hartebeest, springbok, steenbok and the dainty oribi. While stalking the roan, two blue cranes and a ground hornbill wandered across my path. I changed course and followed the blue cranes as they “kraaaank-ed” loudly to their cous-ins nearby.

Forty-eight hours at Reilly’s is not nearly enough to experience everything Mlilwane offers. Rather than walk to the striking Nyonyane Mountain with its infamous ‘rock of execution’ granite peak, I chose a more serene afternoon with Rafiki and Topaz. Horse riding in such a beautiful landscape is one of life’s great joys, but to ride alongside zebra, blesbok, impala and my favourite, warthog, is what makes Af-rica unique. Chubeka Trails offers riding adventures to suit your wishes and skill, or if a mountain bike or open 4x4 vehicle is more your style, that is an option, too. As night fell on the hilltop, I sat watching the resident bush babies and overheard guests willing an indefinite stay.

“They make terrible mothers, and often leave the calves for hours on end while they wander off grazing. But this one will be fine.”

The grasslands of Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary make good habitat for blue cranes.

A roan calf, less than a week old, hides in the long grass.

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DAY 3: Departure

The next morning I wandered the botanical gardens trail with Bonginkhosi Gamedze, Reilly’s gardener. Passing

magnificent old cycads and a plenitude of aloes, we climbed the easy slope to the hilltop for a view across Swa-ziland to the Ndzimba Mountains, where Swaziland’s royalty are buried. Walking back to the lodge, past Down Gran’s Cottage, I picked ripe lychees from the orchard and then feasted on home-grown grapefruit as a starter at breakfast.

Reilly’s is an inspiration because of the attention to detail, the history, the people and the effort and commitment made to conservation here.

Leaving the lodge, I noticed a sign with the words of Gandhi: “A nation can be judged by the way its animals are treated.” Ted said every animal at Reilly’s is alive thanks to the King of Swaziland. Both men deserve gratitude for their success and determination to protect wildlife at a time when con-servationists are facing some of their toughest battles.

Getting there Swaziland is a four-and-a-half hour drive from Gauteng. Remember to take your passport and vehicle registration papers for the border crossing.Accommodation Reilly’s Rock offers the most intimate experience at Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. The lodge has six elegant double rooms, each with en-suite bathroom. From R1 005 a person a night, including dinner, bed and breakfast.Situated below Reilly’s Rock, Down Gran’s Cottage offers self-catering for up to seven people. With its own campfire set below giant cycads, it is perfect for a pri-vate group. Cottage rate R2 580. Breakfast and dinner available on request.Activities Learn more about the wildlife on a guided game drive at sunrise or sunset (R295 a person). Active sorts will enjoy a mountain-bike tour (from R145) or game viewing from horseback (from R210).Reservations +268-2528-3943, www.biggameparks.org

TRIP PLANNER

Dirt roads are a dream in the Toyota Hilux Legend 45. We enjoyed its rugged power as well as luxurious fea-

tures such as the leather interior and reverse camera.

Reilly’s Rock may be the best place to add crested guineafowl to your life list.

A blue duiker grazes contentedly in front of Down Gran’s Cottage.

Most nights the weather is fine enough to eat around the campfire.