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Detox Campaign
Kony 2012
Dirty Laundry
CPSIA
Uzbek Cotton
Subcontracting
Wool Mulesing
Goose Down
Brazil Leather
Angora Fur
REACH
Washington State
California Safer Chemicals
Prop 65
Human Trafficking
Why Are We Here?
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Uzbek Cotton – Lessons Learned: Cross Industry Perspectives Panel Ethical Sourcing Forum
Nate Herman Vice President, International Trade
American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA)
March 27, 2014
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AAFA Snapshot
The American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) is the national trade association representing apparel, footwear and other sewn products companies, and their suppliers which compete in the global market. AAFA's mission is to promote and enhance its members' competitiveness, productivity and profitability in the global market by minimizing regulatory, legal, commercial, political, and trade restraints. Learn more about how AAFA wears our mission at wewear.org >
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Why Uzbekistan?
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Why Uzbekistan? • Bright Line on Uzbek Cotton Production
• Forced Labor / Forced Child Labor
• Government: – Sanctioned – Controlled
• Over ½ of Uzbek Cotton from 2013 Harvest Sold to China and Bangladesh
• China and Bangladesh #1 and #2 Manufacturers of Apparel
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What’s the Problem? • Cotton is Fungible Commodity
– Cotton Traders Mix Cotton from Various Sources
– No Effective Way to Tag or Track
• Lack of Visibility Up the Supply Chain to the Cotton Fields
• No Easy “Choke Point” – Yarn-Spinners?
• Thousands of Yarn-Spinners Worldwide
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• Unprecedented Stakeholder Coalition
• RSN Cotton Pledge
• Learn from Other Industries / Issues
• Annual AAFA Traceability Conference – Address Traceability Up the Supply Chain – Next Conference – July 9, 2014, Portland, OR
• Share/Support RSN/Cotton Campaign Research – Users of Uzbek Cotton Farther Up the Supply
Chain • Daewoo/Indorama • RSN Bangladesh Mills Project
Tackling the Problem
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MONIQUE OXENDER
Senior Director, Sustainability
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March 27, 2014
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The Conflict-Free Sourcing Initiative www.conflictfreesourcinginitiative.org | @EICCoalition | @GeSIConnect
Mike Loch,
Director Supply Chain Corporate Responsibility
Motorola Solutions, Inc.
Conflict-Free
Sourcing Overview
Ethical Sourcing Forum March 27th,2014
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In-Region Schemes
Conflict-Free Smelter Program (CFSP)
Company Assurance
Finished Product
MINE SMELTER/REFINERY OEMS
(pinch point)
Conflict Free Sourcing Initiative (CFSI) 14
CFSI Approach to Conflict-Free Sourcing
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Conflict Minerals Reporting Template Flow
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Smelter Smelter
Smelters
Sub-Suppliers
Sub- Suppliers
Sub-Suppliers
Template User
Direct Suppliers
Direct Suppliers
Direct Suppliers
1. Sends request to direct suppliers
2. Sends request to sub-suppliers
3. Cascades through supply chain until smelters identified. Sub-suppliers return template to suppliers.
Direct Suppliers
Direct Suppliers
Direct Suppliers
Original User
Customer
4. Direct suppliers return aggregated roll up template
5. User returns final aggregated roll up template
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Solutions for Hope Platform
NEGOTIANT
NEGOTIANT
COMPTOIR
NEGOTIANT
COMPTOIR
INT TR
AD
ERS
SMELTER
S
MA
UN
FAC
TUR
ES
OEM
Typical Artisanal Mining Supply Chain
Creuseur
Creuseur
Creuseur
Creuseur
Creuseur
preneurs
preneurs
preneurs
Creuseur
Creuseur
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MMR** AVX/SMELTER AVX Motorola Solutions
MINE*
MINING IS CONDUCTED UNDER
CONCESSION FROM MMR.
CUSTOMER HAS A TRANSPARENT
TRACEABLE SUPPLY CHAIN
AVX TAKE OWNERSHIP OF MATERIAL
DIRECTLY FROM MMR
The Solutions For Hope “Closed Pipe model in the DRC provides a Secure Chain of Custody that Meets OECD DD Guidance
* The diggers sell through their cooperative CDMC ** Mining Mineral Resources
AVX buys the ore at world market prices – • Secure chain of custody, traceability, monitoring, independent audit • More value remaining in region, governmental taxes paid • Reinvestment – safety, mining equipment & technology, facilities • Social benefits program built in by partner contract • Building technical capacity on the ground • Engagement by the end consumers from the start
Solutions for Hope Platform
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Ethical Sourcing Forum
New York | March 27-28, 2014
Didier BERGERET
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Social / Environmental compliance
Benefits of cross-industry cooperation | Traceability?
= Define what’s « Core » for production sites
+
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Focus on what’s « Core »
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Focus on what’s « Core » applied to compliance systems
Environmental Stewardship
› For 11 performance areas
› 3 levels: › Awareness & compliance › Proactive Management › Leading Practice
› Site-specific requirements
Environmental Reference Code
› Complement the requirements › Support improvement › Guidance on how to reach the required level
Implementation Guidelines
› Full environmental audit protocol › Mirroring social tools
Audit Process & Methodology
verification
Auditing Competence
≠ Sectors
Environmental Commitment
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Benefits of the « core-sectorality »
Ready-made tools to take, tailor and use
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Benefits of cross-industry cooperation | Traceability?
Showcase business commitment to global sustainability
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› 9 sectors covered › 22 member companies › global turnover/sales:
+675 bn. € | 870 bn. USD
Capacity Building toolkit for Suppliers
Full Environmental System + Pilots
South African Environmental
compliance scheme
Sectoral framework for sustainable management of
chemicals
Toy Industry Environmental
scheme
Conduct change with partners & suppliers
Framework for Environmental Stewardship
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Benefits of cross-industry cooperation
+ independent experts
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Benefits of cross-industry cooperation
GSCP members
Special consultees
[SLMS]
PON
Advisory Board
…
suppliers
project partners