who's hungry? magazine | late summer 2012 | no 3

1

l a t e s u m m e r 2 0 1 2 N O 0 03

FEATURES

28 Weather Permitting

2 C O N T E N T S

8 5 Great Farm-to-Table Restaurants

34 Simple Summer Sides16 In Season:

Pickled & Preserved

4 Contributors

5 Letter from Steve

6 Stylist’s Corner

8 5 Great Farm-to-Table Restaurants

10 Out of the Bag

12 Art of the Grill

14 Portrait of a Chef

16 In Season: Pickled & Preserved

28 Weather Permitting: Tomato Time

34 Simple Summer Sides

44 High Spirits: Garden in a Glass

46 Cherries & Tar

56 How We Did It

58 Recipe Index

CONTENTS

CONTACTS

3C O N T E N T S

media inquiriesJudith Mara | [email protected]

Deirdre O’Shea | [email protected]

sponsorship opportunitiesDeirdre O’Shea | [email protected]

representationSchumann & Company | www.schumannco.com

[email protected] | 312.432.1702

stephen hamilton 1520 W. Fulton | Chicago, IL 60607

www.stephenhamilton.com

46 Cherries & Tar

44 High Spirits:Garden in a Glass

4 C O N T R I B U T O R S

judith mara | Editor and Writer

Judith has worked with Stephen for almost

seven years and helps to lead the editorial

concept and execution of Who’s Hungry?™

magazine. An award-winning former creative

director for major ad agencies such as Leo

Burnett and J. Walter Thompson, Judith sweats

the details, pens Weather Permitting and

literally hand writes How We Did It.

ian law | Design

Ian designed every aspect of Who’s Hungry?™

magazine with meticulous attention to detail and

typography, and helped turn static images into an

interactive experience. His award-winning design

work has been featured in the pages of Print,

Creativity, How, PDN and Graphic Design USA.

Deirdre O’Shea | Production Director

If you have worked with Stephen Hamilton,

you’ve worked with Deirdre. Drawing on 15

years of experience in managing photography

studios, Deirdre has a hand in nearly every

aspect of Stephen’s business. She’s been

instrumental in organizing the magazine’s

shoots, sourcing ingredients, and always

keeping production on schedule.

a special thanks to: Janet Rausa Fuller, Stephanie Izard and her assistant Jen Eisen, Giuseppe

Tentori, Paula Deen and her right-hand creative man Brandon Branch, Emeril Lagasse, Elizabeth Karmel, Art

Smith and his mother Addie Mae, Paul Virant, Hugh Acheson, Tom Hamilton, Juan Palomino, Paula Walters,

Raymond Barrera, CeCe Campise, JoAnn Witherell, Ruth Siegel, Josephine Orba, Andrew Burkle, JJ Campise,

Breana Moeller, Tamara Morrison, Vanessa Dubiel, Justin Paris, Taylor Strohmeyer.

kathryn o’malley | Associate Editor and Writer

Kathryn’s love of food is matched only by her

passion for writing about it; as the newest

addition to the Who’s Hungry?™ team, she

indulges in a bit of both. Her popular food blog,

dramaticpancake.com, garners more than 40,000

unique viewers per month and highlights the

people and stories behind great recipes.

steve dolinsky | Writer

Since 2003, Steve has been the recognizable face

of ABC 7’s “The Hungry Hound,” filing reports on

the best eats in Chicago. He has also appeared

as a guest judge on “Iron Chef America”, as a

contributor to “Unique Eats”, and serves as one

of the Academy Judges for “The World’s 50 Best

Restaurants.” For Who’s Hungry?™ magazine,

Steve ticked off his favorite al fresco restaurants

across the country.

c o n t r i b u t o r s N O 0 0 3

ian knauer | Writer, Author, Soon-to-be TV Personality

A former editor at Gourmet Magazine, Ian

develops recipes for Food Network and

contributes regularly to Bon Appétit. His own

PBS show, The Farm, will air in 2013 and bring to

life the stories and recipes from his celebrated

new cookbook by the same name. For Who’s

Hungry?™ magazine, Ian takes us to his family’s

farmhouse kitchen where we’re put to work and

rewarded with an incredible meal.

5

I live and work by the philosophy that simple is better. My

approach to photography is to keep my images clean, natural

and uncomplicated. My philosophy for eating and cooking

isn’t any different.

L E T T E R F R O M S T E V E | C O N T R I B U T O R S ’ P O R T R A I T S B Y A N D R E W B U R K L E | S T E V E ’ S P O R T R A I T B Y A N D R E W B U R K L E

LETTER FROM STEVE

Take, for example, this issue’s cover shot.

To me, the best burger is thick, cooked on

a charcoal grill and adorned by simple

additions: cheese, ketchup, pickles, lettuce,

tomato, and a swipe of mayonnaise. The

purity of ingredients is why late summer is

my favorite season.

Much of this simple abundance begins at

one place–the farm. I’m excited to present

a personal story from Ian Knauer, a former

editor of Gourmet magazine and the

author of a new cookbook, The Farm: Rustic

Recipes for a Year of Incredible Food. His witty

and charming tale about rehabbing his

family’s post-Civil War farmhouse kitchen

pulls you right to your knees as he removes

tar from the floor and then back up again

as he describes his celebratory farm meal.

Fussy entertaining has no place in the

summer kitchen. In “Simple Summer

Sides,” I challenged our good friends and

renowned chefs to share a side dish that

they would serve at their family barbecue.

Who would know better than Paula Deen,

Elizabeth Karmel, Art Smith, and Emeril

Lagasse how to use all the impeccable

produce available at this time of year?

To preserve some of the bounty of the

season, you’ll want to read “In Season.”

Chefs and food preservation experts Hugh

Acheson and Paul Virant pen their thoughts

and recipes for canning some of that

goodness for the winter months ahead.

Simply said, this is the perfect time of year

to answer “Who’s Hungry?™”

STEPHEN HAMILTON

6 S T Y L I S T ’ S C O R N E R

When Tom Hamilton, globe-trot-

ting stylist and flea market con-

noisseur, arrived in Jasper, Florida

for a farm-inspired photo shoot as

part of Art Smith’s cookbook, Back

to the Family, he had only three

days to prepare. In instances like

this, where time is limited, Tom’s

keen eye for found objects can be

incredibly useful.

To play to the land’s natural beauty, Tom

turned to local antique stores for props that

embodied the rustic look he was seeking.

Here, mismatched wooden chairs, tin

containers, and a ceramic pitcher convey a

casual, no-frills dinner scene that echoes

the feel of the farm. Varying the heights

and shapes of the dishware while working

within a certain color scheme, says Tom, is

the key to creating a striking yet cohesive

look. With the addition of a loose bouquet

of garden flowers, the resulting setup

appears simple, fresh and natural–the very

essence of farm-to-table cooking.

tom hamilton

CORNERSTYLIST’S

b y K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y

7P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | S T Y L E D B Y T O M H A M I LT O N

8 5 G R E AT FA R M - T O - TA B L E R E S TA U R A N T S

BLUE HILL AT STONE BARNS630 BEDFORD RD.

TARRYTOWN, NY 10591

It took a family farm in Massachusetts to

inspire Dan and David Barber. They started

cooking farm-to-table in 2000 with their first

restaurant, Blue Hill, in Greenwich Village. Four

years later, they reestablished their family’s

Blue Hill Farm in its original form, within the

Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture

in Pocantico Hills, New York. The Center is a

working, year round farm and educational

center just 30 miles north of New York City.

Sourcing from the nearby fields and pasture,

as well as other local farms, the restaurant

highlights the abundance of the Hudson

Valley. There are no menus. Instead, guests

are presented with a list of more than a

hundred ingredients, updated almost daily,

which contains the best offerings from the

field and market, such as sunflowers, Carmen

peppers, heritage breed pigs and Magic

Mountain tomatoes. b y

S T E V E D O L I N S K Y

Steve Dolinsky, Food Reporter for

ABC 7 News in Chicago and 12 time

James Beard Award winner, shares five

recommendations for farm-to-table

restaurants from coast to coast.

Portrait by Todd Rosenberg Photography

BLACKBERRY FARM1471 WEST MILLERS COVE RD.

WALLAND, TENNESSEE 37886

Situated on a majestic, 4,200-acre estate

in the Great Smoky Mountains of eastern

Tennessee, Blackberry Farm truly exemplifies

the farm-to-table ethos of the Old South, with

more than a few modern amenities in both

the Inn and adjoining restaurant. The chefs

employ Foothills cuisine, a style they define

as “refined yet rugged.” Meals are served in a

restored, 18th century Amish barn, and reflect

the season. Guests are encouraged to spend

time working in the fields and gardens, to

better appreciate the ripe peaches, foraged

mushrooms and heirloom produce that will

ultimately grace their dinner table.GREAT FARM-TO-TABLE

RESTAURANTS

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THE HERBFARM14590 NE 145TH ST.

WOODINVILLE, WA 98072

For much of the year, The Herbfarm’s gardens

and farm supply the restaurant with its produce.

It’s not uncommon to see wild mushrooms,

heritage fruits and handmade cheeses share

menu space with oddities such as water-grown

wasabi root and artisanal caviars. Each day’s

9-course menu is finalized just a few hours before

the meal, highlighting the best from farm, forest,

and sea. Paddlefish caviar and Puget Sound perch

might arrive with a fiery kimchi made from local

cucumbers, while muscat-poached peaches and

anise hyssop ice prove local doesn’t always have

to be predictable. Even the wines all hail from the

Pacific Northwest.

WILLOWS INN2579 W. SHORE DR.

LUMMI ISLAND, WA 98262

Since 1910, this hideaway—located in the

archipelago that includes the San Juan Islands

and the Gulf Islands in the Salish Sea—has been

nestled among mountains, volcanoes, rivers,

lakes and salt waters. Salmon, blackberries and

wild roses are as common as potholes in Chicago.

The prix fixe menu is available Wednesday

through Sunday, and chef Blaine Wetzel’s

creations seem to channel Copenhagen’s Noma

as much as anyone. How many dining rooms,

after all, turn the forest loose on your tongue?

Salmonberry flowers, spruce needles and stinging

nettles are used as frequently as some other

chefs might use basil or thyme. Perhaps it’s one

of the reasons Food & Wine Magazine named him

one of their “Best New Chefs” earlier this summer.

EARTH AT HIDDEN POND354 GOOSE ROCKS RD.

KENNEBUNKPORT, ME 04046

Imagine a walk in the woods, next to a series of

gardens with unlimited produce, harvested and

transformed into some of the most delicious

food on the East Coast. Maintaining that “simple

yet innovative” mantra, Earth’s menu—driven

by James Beard award-winning Boston chef

Ken Oringer—is all about “farm to fork.” While

the ability to source local meats and seafood

is relatively easy, produce comes from one of

two onsite organic gardens; they’re picked daily

and are incorporated into just about every dish.

Even cocktails are created using their own herbs

and muddled fruits. The restaurant’s walls are

made from trees cut to clear the site, which will

remind you of your surroundings even as you

polish off a local seafood paella embedded with

spring peas and greens.

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N

There are no beaches in Stephen Hamilton’s

studio. No snow-capped mountains or azure

skies or grassy fields, either. So when a photo

calls for the perfect setting, Stephen relies

on the talents of Tamara Morrison to create a

place with her paintbrush. Tamara’s custom

painted backdrops are truly works of art,

featuring everything from billowy clouds to

glittering sands. Most importantly, they have

the ability to transport food to anywhere in

the world, all without ever stepping out of the

studio. Take a peek into Tamara’s toolbox on

wheels, overflowing with the tools of her craft.

1

21. buckets and rulersIt may look like a painter robbed an elementary

school, but these rulers are the perfect paint stirrers,

and these paint buckets are the perfect mixing bowls.

2. tints A variety of tints lets Tamara fine-tune a paint color

and create her own; she may adjust a paint color as

many as five times during a shoot until she gets it

just right.

3. canvas & muslin backdropsEvery scene begins with a blank canvas. Tamara

usually arrives at a shoot with only a base color

painted, and then paints the rest of the scene while

on set in the studio. Working on set allows Stephen

and Tamara to collaborate and make adjustments as

necessary.

4. paint brushesWide skies call for big brush strokes. The veins of a

leaf call for lots of little ones. With her arsenal of

brushes, Tamara is ready for anything–no matter what

shape or size.

OUT of the

BAG

10 O U T O F T H E B A G : TA M A R A M O R R I S O N


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11P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N

tamara morrison

12 T H E A R T O F T H E G R I L L

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THE SIMULATED GRILLThis isn’t your traditional grill. Grill grates

placed above a light box allows Geoff to easily

manipulate the appearance of heat. When

lit from the light box beneath, red acrylic

briquettes dusted in grey powder look so real

you would swear you could smell the smoke.

THE WHISPERING FLAMEWith special effects master Geoff Binns-Calvey’s

custom flame rig–a snaking collection of metal

valves, bottles, and glass tubes–we can control

exactly where, when, and how large the flames

appear. This way, they don’t disrupt an already

perfectly styled piece of meat.

13

»

»

THE JUICEThe pork chops are left

slightly undercooked so

that they don’t dry out

on set, where they are

exposed to additional

heat. A browning agent

and a brush of oil makes

them look extra juicy.


THE GRILL MARKSWhen it comes to photography, where

timing is everything, a product needs to

be styled completely before it hits the

set. After searing the pork chops, food

stylist Josephine Orba created grill marks

with hot metal skewers to give the meat a

wonderfully charred, smoky appearance.

THE GRILL MARKSWhen it comes to photography, where

timing is everything, a product needs to

be styled completely before it hits the

set. After searing the pork chops, food

stylist Josephine Orba created grill marks

with hot metal skewers to give the meat a

wonderfully charred, smoky appearance.

THE ART

of the GRILL

b y

K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y

Few things say summer like

a hot, juicy hamburger fresh

off the grill, or a glazed piece

of pork cooked to perfection.

But creating a grill shot can

pose unique challenges. How

do you capture the heat of the

grill without disturbing (or

drying out) a styled product?

How do you control something

as wild as fire? The answer

begins with a talented stylist,

calculated timing, some complex

contraptions, and of course, the

photographer’s vision. Click the

bullets to learn more about how

we tamed the flame.

S T E P H A N I E I Z A R D

P O R T R A I T O F A

C H E Fb y K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y

P O R T R A I T O F A C H E F : S T E P H A N I E I Z A R D14

15

Izard’s laid-back style and swoon-

worthy flavors draw flocks of

hungry fans and food lovers from

across the country. Her cooking is

bold and complex, yet completely

unpretentious–much like the chef

herself. Izard’s infectious enthusiasm

and warm, no-fuss personality makes

her one of the most likeable culinary

rock stars you will ever meet.

We invited Giuseppe Tentori, the

subject of last issue’s “Portrait of a

Chef,” to submit questions he was

curious to ask Stephanie…and it

seems they both have a great sense

of humor.

what would you do if you weren’t a chef?

Scuba instructor.

what’s one of your funniest

moments in a kitchen?

Not sure if it was funny, but it was

awkward: When a guest started talking to

one of the male line cooks, thanking him

for the meal, convinced it was me. Do I look

that manly? Hmmm.

what do you look for in chefs who apply to work

in your kitchen?

We like line cooks that love what they do

and are also fun. 12 to 14 hours is a long

time to spend with people that are not fun.

what’s one ingredient that you’d

rather not ever cook with? why?

Green bell peppers. For no other reason

than they just do not taste good.

what do you miss the most

about your days on the line?

When I start to miss it I just go back

there and cook.


Stephanie Izard knows success.

She is the first female winner in

Top Chef history, owner of one

of Chicago’s hottest restaurants,

Girl & the Goat (inspired by the

Izard surname, which is French

for a Pyrenean goat-antelope),

and is about to launch a

spin-off restaurant-diner,

Little Goat, this October.

Quite possibly the most popular item on

the Girl and the Goat’s menu is Stephanie’s

Sautéed Green Beans with fish sauce

vinaigrette and cashews.

16 I N S E A S O N : P I C K L E D & P R E S E RV E D

Pickled & Preserved

Think back, or ahead, to January. What’s

missing: the sun-kissed stone fruits and

snappy green, red and yellow vegetables

of summer. Root vegetables are reliable

partners for the long haul. You’ll manage.

May

Sep

tem

ber

Jan

uar

y

July

Nov

emb

er

Mar

ch

Jun

e

Oct

ober

Feb

ruar

y

Au

gust

Dec

emb

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Ap

ril

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

But why just get by? In the stark cold, why

not uncap a jar of sprightly giardiniera or

pickled peppers from the garden that recall

the sweet heat of backyard barbecues? A

slather of homemade strawberry jam on

warm toast, in a snowstorm–it’s seasonal

confusion at its most delicious.

17P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S & E S S AY S B Y H U G H A C H E S O N & PA U L V I R A N T | R E C I P E B Y C E C E C A M P I S E

Pickled & Preserved

b y J A N E T R A U S A F U L L E R

I N SE A SON

18

View Cece Campise’s recipe on page 58 »

summer peach jam

I N S E A S O N : P I C K L E D & P R E S E RV E D

19

Canning stretches the seasons, and now is

the time to get started. The produce at the

market in August that begs to be bought by

the armful can be enjoyed, well preserved,

in April–atop a burger, stirred into sauce,

eaten straight from the jar.

Putting up food isn’t strictly a warm-

weather pursuit. As Chicago chef and

pickling savant Paul Virant writes in his

book Preservation Kitchen, winter citrus is

fair game for preserving as well.

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S & E S S AY S B Y H U G H A C H E S O N & PA U L V I R A N T | R E C I P E B Y C E C E C A M P I S E

It takes effort. But there are plenty of

resources in print, online, and very likely

within your social network to guide and

inspire you.

Starting on the following pages with a jam

recipe from CeCe Campise, then essays

and recipes by Virant and James Beard

Award-winning chef Hugh Acheson, whose

book, A New Turn in the South, should also

be on your short list. As the seasons shift,

you’ll be glad you did.


Putting Up

Hugh Acheson is the chef/partner of Five & Ten and the National

restaurants in Athens, Ga. and Empire State South in Atlanta.

He wrote the James Beard Award-winning cookbook, A New Turn

in the South: Southern Flavors Reinvented for Your Kitchen and has

appeared on Bravo’s “Top Chef Masters” and “Top Chef.”

E s s a y b y H U G H A C H E S O N

21

Pickling and preserving has been

a nourishing facet of the Southern

table for centuries. This “putting

up” practice has long demarcated

the seasons, reminding us that to

have tomatoes in December, we

had better get working in August.

Filling the pantry with chow chow, okra,

dilly beans and cukes is hard work, but the

redemption comes in February when you

are able to eat a little bit of summer with

your wintery supper.

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S & E S S AY S B Y H U G H A C H E S O N & PA U L V I R A N T | R E C I P E B Y C E C E C A M P I S E

Sep

tem

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Au

gust

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Even with a boom in the popularity of

preserving and pickling, we are losing

ground to the grocery store. This is the

malaise of convenience. The aisles provide

a homogenized landscape to our palates,

where everything is always available.

I love reminding people about that

moment in early fall when the apples of

northeast Georgia burst onto the scene.

It’s then that I get antsy for Arkansas

Blacks, my favorite varietal of apple from

a local farm in Elberton, Ga.

The process is so basic, so tried and true.

I pick up the phone and talk to Bill. Bill

goes and gets the apples and brings them

to Athens. I buy said apples. It’s a glorious

relationship that happens every year and

results in canned treasures of conserves,

apple butters and chutneys.

22

I can remember making my first batches of

bread-and-butter pickles and pickled okra,

leaning on old tomes of American food like

The Joy of Cooking, Fannie Farmer, and the

Time Life Good Cook Series. I remember going

through the whole process, tweaking to

keep things current, and then trying to

wait patiently for the pickles to mature.

That last step rarely worked out because

of my love of snacking. The bread-and-

butter pickles were sweet and savory at the

same time, with the mustard seed pulling

through, the bright notes of celery leaves,

the pungency of turmeric, and the acid kiss

of cider vinegar.


Increasing production to a level that even

I could not snack through let us enjoy the

pickles months later. Now the January

sandwich, the February burger and the

March egg salad get August’s pickles.

We have to get back to the canning pot

to fully embrace the beauty of living in a

wonderful world of seasonal foods.


View Hugh Acheson’s recipe on page 59 »

bread ’n’ butter pickles


View Paul Virant’s recipe on page 60 »

grape aigre-doux

25

From the arrival of ramps in

spring to the last cranberry

harvest in fall, my cooks and

I turn into canning machines,

preserving as many vegetables

and fruits as our pantry shelves

can handle.

Ever since I opened Vie, my restaurant in

Western Springs, Ill., in 2004, I have made

a habit of preserving seasonal produce.

Back then I did it so I could feature produce

from local farms on our menu year round.

But it’s the depth of flavor I can achieve

while cooking with preserves that keeps me

excited about it all these years later.

In those early days, I was only just figuring

out how to cook with pickles and jams. I

began finishing meat sauces with spoonfuls

of brine, using butter and stock to glaze

pickled vegetables, and garnishing a few

cocktails with preserved berries or pickled

ramps. Each splash of acidity or sweetness

added complexity to the final product, so

I kept at it while adding more and more

types of preserves to the pantry.

September

August

89

Paul Virant is the chef and owner of the Chicago area

restaurants Vie and Perennial Virant, and author with

Kate Leahy of Preservation Kitchen: The Craft of Making and

Cooking with Pickles, Preserves and Aigre-Doux.

Can-do Aigre-Doux

E s s a y b y PA U L V I R A N T

a s t o l d t o K AT E L E A H Y

26

It wasn’t long before I came across aigre-

doux, a sweet-sour condiment from France.

I took a class with Christine Ferber, a

French preserving expert whose jams are

famous in Paris.

One of Ferber’s demonstrations showcased

pears soaked in wine, vinegar, honey,

and vanilla bean. It was a revelation:

the sharpness of the wine and vinegar

was offset by the pears’ mellow sweetness.

I was hooked on this bittersweet

combination, and I incorporated

aigre-doux into my canning program.

Aigre-doux is most often composed of

fruit in a wine-based brine, but it also can

be made with sweet vegetables such as

onions, beets and carrots. While it tastes

complex, aigre-doux is very easy to make.

Take grapes, for instance. All you do is

put stemmed grapes (I like goldenrod or

canadice varieties) in a jar, pour hot brine

over the grapes, cap the jar with a lid and

boil the jar in a water bath. During the

processing time, some of the sweetness

of the fruit leaches out into the brine. The

result is a sweet-sour grape juice.

To use it, I take the brine and simmer it in

a pot until reduced by half. I mix in olive

oil, shallots, and aigre-doux grapes to

make vinaigrette. It’s also good tossed with

roasted cauliflower, capers and parsley. No

matter the application, the tang of grapes

and wine is the main draw.


View Paul Virant’s recipe on page 61 »

waldorf salad with apples, candied walnuts, and grape aigre-doux dressing

28

WEATHER PERMITTING

W E AT H E R P E R M I T T I N G : T O M AT O T I M E

1.

2.

3.

4.

Summer tomatoes.

What better captures

the flavor of summer

and sunshine? At

every farmer’s market

from as far north as

Bemidji, Minnesota

to as far south as San

Antonio, Texas, it’s

tomato time.

TOMATO TIMETreat Your Heirlooms With Respect

b y J U D I T H M A R A


6.

8.

9.

10.

7.

5.

4.

1. black russian 2. brandywine 3. isis candy 4. sun gold 5. yellow gooseberry 6. green zebra 7. matt’s wild cherry 8. jaune flammé 9. san marzano 10. black krim

30

These days, heirloom tomatoes boast

artistic first and last names such

as Cherokee Purple, Green Giant,

Hawaiian Currant, Great White,

German Stripe, Black Krim, Paul

Robeson, Green Zebra . . . and the

list gets longer every year.


grilled tomatoes on the vine

On your next trip to the farmer’s market, scoop

up some tomatoes still on the vine. Soak the

tomatoes in water for 10 minutes and drain.

Place on a sheet of foil then grill until soft. The

tomatoes and a tuna steak will take about the

same amount of time to grill. Garnish with olive

oil, sea salt, Kalamata olives and fresh herbs.

31

There are now so many subtle colors in the

tomato rainbow, it can be confusing to those

who have only shopped for the red variety in

the past. We’ll help solve the uncertainty of how

to tell if a green tomato is ripe or not. Just give

it a gentle press; if it’s soft, it’s ripe. The same

tip goes for black, purple, yellow, orange and

striped varieties.

Then there is the question of what does a green

and purple Ananas Noire tomato taste like?

The easiest way to find out is to ask the farmer

for a sample or take one home and give it a try.

But in truth, tomato flavors vary only slightly

depending on the tomato’s degree of sweetness

and acidity. Homegrown tomatoes taste like a

tomato should taste.

A perfectly ripe tomato needs no more than a

few grains of salt to heighten its sweetness.

Too much of anything strongly flavored, such as

commercial salad dressing, is going to compete

with that burst of juicy tomato flavor you have

looked forward to all summer.

Our final word on tomatoes may be the most

important: Tomatoes love the heat and hate the

cold. The plants won’t even develop fruit if the

nights aren’t above 60 degrees. And after they

are picked, they are still cold sensitive. So treat

your tomatoes with respect and never store

them in the refrigerator–it makes them mealy

and insipid like so many supermarket tomatoes.


grilled tomatoes on the vine

32

Summer tomatoes should be the star

of the dish. Slice tomatoes into wedges

and sprinkle lightly with salt and fresh

pepper. In a bowl, combine some olive oil,

red wine vinegar, a half clove of chopped

garlic (optional), sliced red onion and

fresh herbs. Add tomatoes and toss.


33

mostly tomato salad


34 S I M P L E S U M M E R S I D E S34

View Paula Deen’s recipe on page 62 »

chilled grilled corn and watermelon salad

PAU L A DE E N recipe by

pauladeen.com

“Side dishes are never just plain ol’

sides for me. They’re what make a

regular meal something great!”


S U M M E R S I D E SWhen the weather grows warm and the nights grow long,

the season calls for plenty of parties, picnics and barbecues.


S I M P L E

36

Cooking out is an American tradition.

No swim at the beach, excursion to the

local park, or gathering in the backyard

is complete without a little extra

summer sizzle.

We love our grills, and we recall charred

grates, cold drinks, and Frisbee-filled

afternoons as fondly as our first dates and

old cars. According to a Weber GrillWatch

Survey, more than two thirds of American

adults own an outdoor grill or smoker,

which they ritualistically pamper and

frequently fire up.

Of course, a barbecue cannot consist

of hamburgers and hotdogs alone.

With all that grilling going on, we

decided to ask four all-American

chefs for their favorite go-to sides

for summer–and they gave us a little

something else to remember.

S I M P L E S U M M E R S I D E S

37

Done right, summer sides are delicious

in their own right and elevate a meal

into something truly special. When we

asked our friend Paula Deen, Emmy

Award-winning television personality and

Southern sweetheart, for her philosophy on

sides, she responded:

True to her word, Paula’s grilled corn and

watermelon salad is elegant, refreshing,

and guaranteed to make a lasting

impression.

“Side dishes are never just plain ol’ sides

for me. They’re what make a regular meal

something great! So keep in mind that your

salads and stuffings are just as memorable

as anything else you put on your plates

this summer.”


38 S I M P L E S U M M E R S I D E S

“Summer is filled with an abundance

of great-tasting produce that makes for

great sides.”

E M E R I L L AG A S S E recipe by

from The Essence of Emeril

Food Network star and James

Beard winner Emeril Lagasse

knows that good food doesn’t

have to be complicated. His recipe

for sautéed spinach with plump

figs and a drizzle of honey is a

seamless blend of sweet and

savory that’s just as stunning as

it is easy. When we asked for his

thoughts on summer sides, he

explained:

“For me, it’s all about keeping it

simple and fresh.”


View Emeril Lagasse’s recipe on page 63 »

spinach sautéed with garlic, figs, and honey


View Elizabeth Karmel’s recipe on page 64 »

grilled panzanella, a.k.a. italian bread salad with summer vegetables


“The [side] dish should strike a balance of acid,

salt, richness, and freshness. And, it should be as

‘craveable’ as the main course.”

E L I Z A B E T H K A R M E L recipe by

ElizabethKarmel.com

Elizabeth Karmel, author of Soaked,

Slathered and Seasoned, and unofficial

“Queen of the Grill,” tells us her

approach to summer sides can be

summed up with three key words:

ripe, color, flavor. Her take on the

Italian panzanella–filled with toasty

golden bread, bright grilled vegetables,

and traditional Tuscan seasonings–

embodies them all.

“No matter what you are grilling for the

main course,” Elizabeth advises, “it’s

important to serve a vibrant dish with

juicy, top-of-the-season flavors.”


Some dishes linger in our minds

for their incredible taste; others,

for the memories they conjure. For

our long-time friend Art Smith, Top

Chef Masters contestant and author

of Back to the Family, part of what

makes a dish great are the ties and

traditions behind it. Here, he shares

with us a personal family favorite:

the prized potato salad recipe

belonging to his mother, Addie Mae.

Familiar and satisfying, it is summer

comfort food at its best.

42

43

View Art Smith’s recipe on page 65 »

addie mae’s potato salad

A RT S M I T H recipe by

From Back to the Family

“All great meals have great

side dishes as part of the

equation. Some sides can

become the meal itself.”


44 H I G H S P I R I T S : G A R D E N I N A G L A S S

View Andrew Chabot and Graham Case’s recipe on page 66 »

garden bloody mary

The views are never ending at Blackberry Farm,

which is tucked into the idyllic foothills of the

Great Smoky Mountains of Tennessee, and so is

their connection to the earth.

G A R DE N in a

G L A S S

HIGH SPIRITS

b y

J U D I T H M A R A


The renowned restaurant, fondly called

The Barn, is revered for both its Foothills

cuisine and its resident culinary artists: the

chef, the master gardener, the baker, the

cheesemaker, the forager, the butcher, the

jam lady, the chocolatier, the mixologist,

and the sommelier.

Blackberry Farm’s Sommelier and Food

& Beverage Director, Andrew Chabot, and

Mixologist, Graham Case, have created no

less than three separate cocktail menus

based on what is grown on the farm. To us,

nothing represents a garden of fresh flavors

more than their Garden Bloody Mary

served in a Mason jar.

Chabot asserts that making their own

Bloody Mary mix with Angostura syrup

bitters and hot pepper sauce gives the

drink a depth of flavor rather than just

heat. The traditional ingredient notably

missing is celery salt. He claims the fresh

sour mix is what livens up the tomato

flavor and makes the cocktail more vibrant.

However, this spirited drink has one

distinction not tied to a garden: It’s

made with fine Kentucky bourbon. When

Chabot was asked why he uses bourbon,

he responded, “Why not?” As fresh and

delicious as this recipe tastes, we say the

exact same thing.

C H E R R I E S & TA R 46

C H E R R I E S & TA R

Ian Knauer, author of the acclaimed new cookbook, The

Farm, weaves for us a tale of battling his ancient farmhouse

kitchen floor and the reward of sharing a family meal to

celebrate its imperfections.

b y I A N K N A U E R

Stephen Hamilton illustrates Cherries & Tar with four seasonal farm

dishes from Knauer’s new cookbook.

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S B Y I A N K N A U E R 47

48 C H E R R I E S & TA R

The Farm: Rustic Recipes for a Year of

Incredible Food sorts recipes by the season.

Stephen Hamilton chose to follow the

same model with his food photography.

View Ian Knauer’s recipe on page 67 »

thyme-roasted butternut squash

49P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S B Y I A N K N A U E R

If you’re looking for a sure-fire guarantee

that your great-grandchildren will curse your

name, I’ve got two words for you: linoleum

and wallpaper. My family’s farmhouse was

built just after the Civil War and has been

passed down from generation to generation

with little renovation. But some time around

the 1940’s, someone got the hair-brained idea

to cover the kitchen floor with linoleum and

the walls with a pink floral print. Now it’s my

turn to keep the place in good shape, and, I’m

a cook. The old stove with two small working

burners (and two more that have been kaput

for years) just wouldn’t do.

I could have kept the job simple and just

replaced the stove. But the wallpaper had

started to peel off on its own and while

I was at it, I could rip up the linoleum

exposing the expected perfect patina of

pine floorboards. I told myself it wouldn’t

be hard, just scrape, paint, and sand. I

figured it would just be a couple days

before I was whipping up Cherry-Sour

Cream Crostatas in my new farmhouse-

chic country kitchen to share with my

friends and family. I have never been so

wrong about anything in my life.


I want it to look as nice on camera as it does in my mind

and heart. I love this place; my roots grow deep here.


chicken with a ton of garlic

51

My motivation to renovate is not just driven by my

stomach and my love of shared meals.

I wrote a cookbook about the farm and

the family, and PBS has signed on to air a

cooking show based on the book and the

place. It will be filmed in the kitchen of

the farmhouse. A sponsor has donated a

cooking range. I want it to look as nice on

camera as it does in my mind and heart. I

love this place; my roots grow deep here.

The wallpaper took me an agonizing week

to remove. The linoleum was another story.

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S B Y I A N K N A U E R

In fact, the linoleum itself wasn’t so bad;

it was the tar paper between it and the

floorboards that had (probably some time

around the 1970’s) ceased to be paper and

just became tar. Finding it made me want

to cry, but I had an idea. I rented a drum

sander. I would just shave off the top

layer of the wood–which needed to be

done anyway–taking the tar up with it.

One foot into the project, the sandpaper

was gummed to the point of no return.

I no longer wanted to cry–I just cried.



cold-spring-night asparagus soup

53

I spent the next two weeks on my hands

and knees applying hot water to the tar

with a sponge before scraping it away

an inch at a time. My pace was 3 square

feet an hour. My knees stuck to the floor.

My sweat poured off of me and into the

freshly exposed ancient wood. I cursed

my ancestors aloud. And, it is still not

finished, but the area of the floor that

houses the stove was the first order of

business. Finally, the range was installed.

To celebrate I called my family and

friends to join me for a meal at the farm.

As they arrived in waves on a hot

summer Saturday, everyone took turns

admiring the stove and rolling their eyes

at the remaining sticky patches of floor.

But the promise of fresh produce can

be a great distraction. The garden that I

planted with my sisters last spring was

in full bloom. We wandered through

rows of tomatoes (and weeds) picking

everything we would cook before we

gathered on the front porch to eat.

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S B Y I A N K N A U E R

55P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S B Y I A N K N A U E R

It is true that hard work makes

everything taste better, but roasted

cherry tomato and homemade ricotta

crostini are pretty wonderful even

without hours of tar scraping under

your belt. Little basil leaves always fall

in just the right nooks when scattered

over grilled ratatouille pizza. Blue cheese

and freshly pulled beets is a marriage

that no chef can outdo, especially when

tied together with dill.

It is dinners like this one that remind

me of my grandfather. He too loved this

place and poured his time and sweat

into its earth. But, he liked to remind us

that the work and upkeep of the farm

will always be here. There will always be

a list of chores too long to finish in one

lifetime. And, the most important work

we can do is to love and feed each other

and spend time together as a family. It is

the easiest job of all–made even easier

with Cherry-Sour Cream Crostatas.


sour cherry-sour cream crostata pie

5656 H O W W E D I D I T

Deconstructing a shot

from Stephen Hamilton’s

The Restaurant Project

favorite dish

40 Day Ribeye

Restaurant

Primehouse, Chicago

food stylist

Josephine Orba

prop stylist

Paula Walters

HOW WE DID IT

b y J U D I T H M A R A

58

Cece Campise

summer peach jam

R E C I P E I N D E X

Place a small plate in the freezer to test the jam later on.

Place the peaches, lemon juice, and sugar in a large deep pot.

Bring to a rolling boil, stirring constantly. Add the pectin, and

cook for 1 minute.

Remove plate from freezer and dab a little jam on it. The jam

should set pretty quickly. Take it off the heat and process

in jars for shelf-stable jams, or plastic containers to be

refrigerated.

ingredients:

· 4 cups mashed peaches

· 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

· 7 cups sugar

· 1 pouch of liquid pectin

makes 8 cups jam

At Green City Market in Chicago, I picked up some really ripe

tomatoes from Mick Klug farm. I waited a few days to use them.

They became so ripe I didn’t even use a knife to cut them–just

squished them in my fingers!

59

summer peach jam

Hugh Acheson: A New Turn in the South: Southern Flavors Reinvented For Your Kitchen

bread ’n’ butter pickles

Wash the cucumbers under cold water and then slice them

into 1/3-inch-thick rounds. Peel the onion and slice into 1/3-

inch strips. Mix the onions and the cucumbers in a medium

bowl and add half of the kosher salt. Toss well and let sit for

1 hour at room temperature.

Rinse the onions and cucumbers well using a colander and

cold water to remove the salt. When thoroughly rinsed and

drained, place them in a medium nonreactive bowl, tear

the celery leaves into the mixture, and set aside. Pack the

cucumbers, onion, and celery leaves into clean pint jars with

the tops off.

In a nonreactive pot, combine remaining salt, the red pepper

flakes, fenugreek, fennel seeds, turmeric, mustard seeds,

allspice, vinegar, sugar, sorghum and ½ cup water. Bring to a

rapid boil and then pour evenly over the cucumbers.

Attach the lids and leave them out on the counter for 2 hours

and then place in the fridge. If you would like them to keep

for the long haul, follow your jar manufacturer’s directives

for canning.

At this point the pickles are pretty much done but the will

be at their best a day or two later. The shelf life, without hot

canning processing, is about 10 days.

ingredients:

· 10 small picking cucumbers

(4 to 5 inches long and an 1½ inches in diameter)

· 1 medium sweet onion, partial to Vidalia when possible

· 1/4 cup kosher salt

· 1/4 cup fresh celery leaves

· 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

· 1/4 teaspoon ground fenugreek

· 1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds

· 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

· 1 teaspoon mustard seeds

· 8 allspice berries

· 11/2 cups of cider vinegar

· 1/2 cup granulated sugar

· 1/4 cup sorghum or maple syrup

makes 3 to 4 pints

This recipe is a very simple one to do and the results are just

what you envision: tons more flavor than the store-boughts, a

little less sweet and a little zestier.


60

Paul Virant: Preservation Kitchen: The Craft of Making and Cooking with Pickles, Preserves, and Aigre-Doux by Paul Virant with Kate Leahy

grape aigre-doux

In a pot over medium-high heat, mix together the wine, verjus,

vinegar, sugar, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil. Split the

vanilla bean in half and scrape out the seeds with the tip of

a spoon. Mix in the seeds and bean and simmer for a minute

more. Transfer to a heat-proof pitcher and remove the vanilla

bean (reserve for another use).

Scald 4 half-pint jars. (To scald, using tongs put the jars into a

large pot of simmering water fitted with a rack — you will use

this pot to process the jars. Remove the jars right before filling.)

Meanwhile, soak the lids in a pan of hot water to soften the

rubber seal.

Pack the grapes into the jars, leaving about a 1/2-inch space

from the rim. Check the jars for air pockets, pouring in more of

the liquid if necessary to fill in gaps. Wipe the rims with a clean

towel, seal with the lids, then screw on the bands until snug but

not tight.

Place the jars in the pot with the rack and add enough water

to cover the jars by about 1 inch. Bring the water to a boil and

process the jars for 15 minutes (start the timer when the water

reaches a boil). Remove the jars from the water and let cool

completely.

ingredients:

· 11/2 cups (12 ounces) white wine

· 1/2 cup (4 ounces) verjus

· 1/4 cup (2 ounces) champagne vinegar

· 1/2 cup sugar

· 1/2 teaspoon salt

· 2 teaspoons ground black pepper

· 1 vanilla bean

· scant 4 cups small red or green grapes, such as canadice,

goldenrod, Bronx, or Thompson seedless, stemmed

makes 4 half-pint jars

In late summer, farmers start to bring more nuanced, thin-skinned

table grapes to market. While it is easy to eat an entire bunch of

small, sweet goldenrod or perfectly round, purple canadice varieties,

I make sure to save some for aigre-doux.


61

grape aigre-doux

To make the dressing, in a small pot, reduce the apple cider,

lemon juice and curry powder until almost dry. Stir in the

grapeseed oil and cook until the oil is too hot to touch, about 2

minutes. Cool the oil to room temperature.

In a food processor, blend the egg, crème fraîche, and Aigre-

Doux liquid. While the processor is on, gradually drizzle in the

curry oil until it becomes thick. (The oil and egg are binding

together to form an emulsion. If the emulsion breaks and loses

its shape, pour the mixture in a liquid measuring cup, add an

egg yolk to the food processor and drizzle in the broken mixture

as if it were oil.) Season with salt and refrigerate until needed.

You will have about 2 cups. Refrigerate until needed.

To make the candied walnuts, line a baking pan with

parchment paper or a non-stick, silicone baking mat. In a cold

pan, combine the sugar with just enough water to create a

mixture that resembles wet sand. Place the pan over high heat

and cook the sugar until it begins to brown. Lower the heat to

medium and stir in the walnuts. Season with a few pinches

of salt and pepper and cook, stirring constantly, until a frosty

coating covers the walnuts. Pour onto the prepared baking pan

and let cool completely.

To serve the salad, combine the lettuce, apples, celery and

drained grapes. Spoon just enough dressing to coat the

ingredients evenly (about 1/4 cup) and add a pinch of salt and

pepper. Mix well and garnish with candied walnuts and grapes.

ingredients:

· 1/2 cup apple cider

· Juice of 1/2 lemon

· 1 tablespoon Madras curry powder

· 1 cup grapeseed oil

· 1 large egg

· 2 tablespoons crème fraîche

· 1/2 cup liquid strained from Grape Aigre-Doux

· kosher salt

· 1 cup toasted walnuts

· 1/2 cup sugar

· freshly ground black pepper

· 2 cups shredded iceberg lettuce

· 2 stalks celery, sliced

· 1 apple, thinly sliced (preferably honeycrisp)

· 1/2 cup drained grapes from Grape Aigre-Doux

serves 4

Paul Virant: Preservation Kitchen: The Craft of Making and Cooking with Pickles, Preserves, and Aigre-Doux by Paul Virant with Kate Leahy

waldorf salad with apples, candied walnuts, and grape aigre-doux dressing

While this salad has a few components, most of them can be made ahead of

time. The curry oil in the dressing can be made as much as a week ahead, the

candied walnuts will stay crisp for at least five days, and the dressing will

keep in the refrigerator for about five days. This recipe makes more dressing

than you need, but the extra is terrific served with plain mixed greens.


62

Paula Deen

chilled grilled corn and watermelon salad

In a medium mixing bowl, gently toss all ingredients.

Serve chilled.

ingredients:

· 4 cups watermelon, seeded and diced

· 3 ears sweet corn, grilled and kernels cut off the cob

· 1 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

· 2 tablespoons cilantro, finely chopped

· salt and pepper to taste

makes 4 servings


63

Emeril Lagasse: The Essence of Emeril

spinach sautéed with garlic, figs and honey

In a medium skillet over medium-high heat, add the olive

oil and, when hot, add the garlic and cook until lightly

toasted, about 30 seconds. Add the figs and chicken stock

and cook until stock is nearly completely reduced, about 2

minutes. Add the spinach and cook, stirring, until wilted,

about 2 minutes. Season with the salt and pepper and

drizzle with the honey just before serving.

ingredients:

· 2 tablespoons olive oil

· 2 tablespoons garlic, thinly sliced

· 1/4 cup dried figs, sliced

· 1/4 cup chicken stock

· 1 pound baby spinach

· 1/2 teaspoon salt

· 1/4 teaspoon pepper

· 2 teaspoons honey

makes 4 servings


64

Elizabeth Karmel

grilled panzanella a.k.a. italian bread salad with summer vegetables

Grilling Method: Direct/Medium Heat

In a large mixing bowl toss tomatoes cucumber, garlic, pine

nuts, capers, olives and basil together with1 cup of olive oil and

the vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside to marinate

at room temperature for 45 minutes.

Meanwhile toss the zucchini, eggplant, peppers and onion

together with olive oil. Brush the remaining oil lightly over both

sides of the mushrooms, onion slices and sliced bread. Season

with salt. Place the vegetables on the cooking grate, turning to

sear all over, until crisp-tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove and set

side. Place bread on the cooking grate and grill on both sides

until golden, 1½ to 2 minutes per side. Transfer the vegetables

and bread to a cutting board and chop all into chunks. Combine

with the tomato mixture, tossing well, and adjust seasoning to

suit. Serve warm or at room temperature.

ingredients:

· 4 large, ripe beefsteak tomatoes, seeded and cut into ¾-inch dice

· 1 cucumber, peeled, halved, seeded and cut on a sharp diagonal

into ¼-inch thick slices

· 4 small garlic cloves, minced

· 2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted

· 2 tablespoons drained capers

· ½ cup imported black olives, pitted and coarsely chopped

· 1 cup shredded fresh basil leaves

· 1 cup best-quality extra-virgin olive oil plus more for

brushing veggies

· 1/4 cup Balsamic vinegar

· 2 medium zucchini, halved lengthwise

· 2 long, thin eggplants, halved lengthwise

· 1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and quartered

· 2 yellow bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and quartered

· 2 large portobello mushrooms

· 1 large red onion, peeled and sliced

· 4 1-inch slices day-old peasant bread, cut from a round loaf

· sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

makes 6 servings


65

Art Smith: Back to the Family: Food Tastes Better Shared by the Ones You Love

addie mae’s potato salad

Cover the potatoes with water and cook in a large

pot over medium-high heat until just tender, about 6

minutes. Check the potatoes frequently, making sure

they do not overcook.

Drain the potatoes in a colander and run cold water over

them to let them cool. Transfer the potatoes back to pot.

Add the relish, eggs, mustard, mayonnaise, onion, celery

seeds and salt and pepper, mixing gently. (For variety, you

can also use dill relish instead of the sweet relish.)

Garnish with bacon, red pepper and a sprinkling of

vinegar, if desired.

ingredients:

· 2 pounds Yukon gold or new red potatoes, peeled and cubed

· 1/2 cup sweet pickle relish

· 5 hard-boiled eggs, chopped

· 2 teaspoons yellow prepared mustard

· 1 cup mayonnaise

· 1/2 onion, chopped

· 1 teaspoon celery seeds or 4 celery ribs, finely chopped

· salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

· 4 slices bacon, cooked and crumbled for garnish

· 1 red bell pepper, chopped, for garnish

· cider vinegar to taste

makes 6-8 servings


66

Andrew Chabot and Graham Case

garden bloody marymakes 8 — 1 pint servings

ingredients for 1 cocktail:

· 1.5oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon Whiskey

· 1 tablespoon fresh squeezed lemon juice

· 2 rosemary stems

· 2 thyme sprigs

· 2 fresh bay leaves

· 1 basil leaf

· Bloody Mary Mix, recipe follows

In a mixing tin with ice add everything. Give a quick shake and

then pour into a large mason jar. Garnish with a celery stalk

speared in between a lemon wedge and an olive.

ingredients for bloody mary mix:

· 5, 32 oz cans of tomato juice

· 10 dashes of Angostura Bitters

· 20 dashes of Worcestershire sauce

· 25 dashes of Tabasco sauce

· 3 tablespoons of Sour Mix

· 3 bar spoons (1 1/2teaspoons) of horseradish

salt and pepper to taste

Stir the ingredients together then store in whatever container

you desire. Keep refrigerated.

ingredients for sour mix:

· 1 lime in a pressed in a juicer for every 4 lemons


67

garden bloody mary

Ian Knauer: The Farm: Rustic Recipes for a Year of Incredible Food

thyme-roasted butternut squash

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees, with racks in the upper and

lower thirds.

Peel and seed the squash and cut it into 1/2-inch pieces. Toss

the squash with the oil, thyme, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/2

teaspoon pepper and divide between two large baking sheets.

Roast the squash, stirring occasionally, until it is tender and

browned, 25 to 30 minutes. Transfer the squash to a serving

bowl and sprinkle generously with the Parmesan. Season with

salt and pepper to taste.

ingredients:

· 1 (3-pound) butternut squash

· 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

· 2 teaspoons fresh thyme, chopped

· kosher salt and black pepper

· 2/3 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

serves 4-6

When butternut squash are ripe (you can tell by the hollow sound they

make when you tap them), they are unbelievably sweet and nutty, with

a smooth, buttery flavor. This recipe keeps things simple by roasting the

squash with oil, thyme, salt, and pepper, then generously sprinkling it

with cheese. It may seem like a lot of cheese at first, but once everything

gets mixed together, the salty cheese and the fresh thyme do a great job of

balancing the inherent sweetness of the squash.


68


chicken with a ton of garlic

I came up with this recipe after a long day in the garden. We had just

planted what would become the following year’s garlic, using the

heads that we had saved from the previous summer. I was left with

four heads of garlic and figured this was a great way to celebrate the

coming crop. I used it all in this recipe, and the result is a beautiful ode

to “the stinking rose.”

Half of the garlic is roasted beforehand, mashed into a paste, and

spread under the skin of the bird. The rest is stuffed inside the cavity,

along with half a lemon and some thyme. The deep, caramelized flavor

of the roasted garlic makes this taste like it’s been on a rotisserie, but,

in fact, it’s just the oven.

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Butter a 13-by-9-inch baking dish.

Roast two heads of garlic by cutting the top 1/2 inch off each

head and discarding. Place each trimmed head on a small piece

of foil, drizzle with a little olive oil and sprinkle with pinch of

salt. Wrap garlic in foil and roast in preheated oven 45 minutes

to 1 hour. Remove foil and cool. (Garlic can be wrapped in

plastic and refrigerated for up to a month.)

Peel and mash roasted garlic together with thyme leaves, oil

and 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and pepper.

Increase oven temperature to 450 degrees, with rack in middle

of oven.

Rinse chicken and pat it dry. Being careful not to tear the skin,

start at the large cavity and gently run your fingers between

the skin and meat to loosen the skin. Push the roasted garlic

mixture under the skin, including around the thighs and

drumsticks, and massage skin from the outside to spread

garlic evenly.

Squeeze the lemon half over the chicken, then season chicken

inside and out with remaining 1 teaspoon each salt and pepper.

Place halved garlic heads, lemon half and thyme sprigs in the

cavity and loosely tie legs together with kitchen string.

Roast chicken in preheated oven until golden and skin pulls

away from base of drumsticks, about 50 minutes. Transfer

chicken to cutting board and let rest 15 minutes before carving

and serving.

ingredients:

· 2 whole heads garlic, for roasting

· olive oil

· pinch of salt

· 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, plus 2 large fresh thyme sprigs

· 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

· 1 1/4 teaspoons Kosher salt (divided)

· 1 1/4 teaspoons black pepper (divided)

· 1 chicken (3 1/2 pounds)

· 1/2 lemon

· 2 heads garlic, halved

serves 4-6


69


cold-spring-night asparagus soup

Slice the leeks crosswise and rinse under cold running water.

Melt the butter in a large heavy saucepan until the foam

subsides. Cook the leek and garlic with 1/2 teaspoon each salt

and pepper over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the

leek is soft but not browned, about 6 minutes. Add the stock

and bring to a boil.

Cut the asparagus into 2-inch pieces, then add to the stock.

Cook until tender, 6 to 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the

heat and stir in the cilantro and dill. Transfer the soup to a

blender in batches and blend until smooth. Season the soup

with salt and pepper to taste. Serve topped with a dollop of

sour cream.

ingredients:

· 1 large leek, pale green and white parts only

· 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

· 1 garlic clove, smashed

· Kosher salt and black pepper

· 4 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth

· 1 pound asparagus, trimmed

· 12 cilantro sprigs

· 6 fresh dill sprigs

· sour cream for serving

serves 4-6

In most of the country, spring nights are still chilly enough for

warming soups. This one is an appropriate bridge between winter

and spring, and I like to sip it from a mug in front of one of the

season’s last crackling fires. It’s hearty with chicken stock and a

leek and bright from the herbs (dill and cilantro) and sour cream. Be

generous with the sour cream. It lends a tangy richness to the soup.


70

Ian Knauer: Recipe adapted from The Farm: Rustic Recipes for a Year of Incredible Food


Work together the flour, cornmeal, butter, sugar, and 1/2

teaspoon kosher salt with your hands until mostly combined

with some small lumps of butter remaining. Stir in 3

tablespoons water with a fork. Press a small handful of dough

together, if it looks powdery and does not come together, stir

in the additional 1tablespoon of water. Transfer the dough to a

sheet of plastic wrap. Using the edge of plastic, fold dough over

on itself, pressing until it comes together. Form the dough into

a disk, wrapped completely in the plastic and chill for 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

Roll out the pastry dough on a well-floured surface with a

floured rolling pin into a 12-inch round. Place the dough in a

10-inch pie tin. Spread the sour cream evenly over the bottom

of the crust.

Toss the cherries with the sugar and zest, then spread the fruit

evenly over the dough in the tin. Fold the border of dough up

and over the edge of the fruit.

Bake the crostata until the crust is golden, the filling is

bubbling, and the cherries are bubbling and slightly thickened.

This will take 45 to 50 minutes.

*editor’s note: frozen cherries can be substituted

ingredients for pastry dough:

· 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

· 1/4 cup finely ground cornmeal

· 1 teaspoon brown sugar

· 1 stick unsalted butter, cut into cubes

· 3 to 4 tablespoons cold water

· kosher salt

ingredients for filling:

· 1/4 cup sour cream

· 1 3/4 lbs fresh sour cherries, pitted (about 5 cups)*

· 3/4 cup sugar

· 1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch

· 1 teaspoon lemon zest

serves 6-8

You might think sour cherries are sour enough on their own and don’t need

any help from anything else soured. But sour cream brings more than just

a little pucker to the mix. The sour cream in this pie seems to melt into the

fruit filling balancing the fruit tart with supple, satisfying intrigue.



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L AT E S U M M E R 2 0 1 2

who's hungry? magazine | late summer 2012 | no 3

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