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WHOWILL

YOU BE? SIGN UP FOR THE PIONEER

ACTIVITY BADGE TO FIND OUT

PIONEERSTH

E

CHAMPIONTH

E

SURVIVOR

THE

ADVENTURER

THE

DAREDEVIL

THE

Discovery Pioneers Resource pack 2

INTRODUCTION

DISCOVERY CHANNEL & THE SCOUT ASSOCIATIONDiscovery Channel is pleased to be working with The Scout Association to bring you the Pioneer Activity Badge Leader Pack. Discovery’s aim is to give young people information about how to prepare for this inspiring and essential badge, and to make it easier and simpler for Scout Leaders by having all the information they need to get started in one single pack.

Having the backing of Bear Grylls and Co. is fundamental to making this badge relevant in today’s world, and giving young people great role models to identify with. Discovery Channel and ~The Scout Association believe that through adventure and exploration we can challenge individuals to enrich their lives.

Susanna Dinnage, SVP and General Manager, Discovery Networks UK, said: “We are very excited to be partnering with the Scouts and proud to sponsor the Pioneer Activity Badge. Discovery and The Scout Association share a mutual love of adventure and exploration and we are delighted

Discovery Channel has partnered with The Scout Association in an exciting new project to sponsor the Pioneer Activity Badge.

to support an organisation that encourages young people to ‘learn by doing’, bringing out their pioneering spirit.

Our partnership gives us the opportunity to encourage young people to take on new challenges both indoors and out and live their life to the full. We are delighted to encourage all Scouts to find ways to explore their world whether this is by making and flying a kite or putting up a tent and camping outdoors.”

DISCOVERY CHANNELDiscovery is one of the best known TV brands in the world. Every day over 3.7 million people enjoy watching one of Discovery’s channels. Our programmes tell the stories of Pioneers and adventurers and cover subjects such as science and exploration.

As well as great stories and characters, Discovery’s programmes try to tell you something about the world around you, with inspirational presenters such as Bear Grylls, Ed Sta!ord, Ruth England, Stephen Hawking and Olympic Gold medalist James Cracknell.


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Pioneering teaches practical life skills !"Being able to tie basic knots.!"Understanding which knot is suitable and

in what situation.!"Being able to respond to an emergency where

some knowledge of knots is needed.!"Being able to practice the following skills:

securely tie timber together, create useful objects, and solve problems.

!"Being able to maintain a rope in good condition: coil it, store it, and understand the di!erent ropes.

!"Being able to secure a load on a trailer or vehicle.

Pioneering develops self-confidence!" It provides Scouts with the

skills to perform creatively.!" It gives Scouts the confidence that

they can use their skills to provide practical assistance when needed in the community.

Pioneering is fun!" It is a hands-on activity where

knowledge is best gained by doing.!" It provides people the skills to be

able to use what is around them to create useful items.

Pioneering develops the ability to solve problems

!"It explores a variety of problem solving skills.

!"It enhances any camping or outdoor experience.

Pioneering develops team spirit!"It provides a group of individuals

with the ability to successfully work together and devise methods

to achieve an assigned task. !"It builds confidence.

!"It recognises that everyone has di!erent skill levels but that each one

can be used to solve a problem.

Pioneering refers to someone entering new territories with the

view of preparing the way for those who will follow. Pioneering still

refers to this but is very relevant in today’s society. Here’s why:

GIVES YOU...

PIONEERACTIVITY

BADGETH

E


DAREDEVIL

THE

ADVENTURER

THE

CHAMPION

THE

BEAR GRYLLS is recognised around the world as the face of survival and outdoor adventure. He was a soldier in the British Special Forces, became one of the youngest climbers ever to reach Mount Everest’s summit, and is the star of Discovery Channel’s Emmy nominated Born Survivor TV series, reaching an estimated 1.2 billion viewers. In recognition for his expertise and service, Bear was appointed as the youngest ever Chief Scout to 31 million Scouts worldwide. He is also an honorary Lieutenant-Commander in the Royal Navy, and author of 10 books.

ED STAFFORD is the first man in history to walk the entire length of the Amazon River. On 9th August 2010 he and his assistant Cho ran into the Atlantic Ocean and into the record books. Ed has led remote expeditions all over the world. He started running expeditions after retiring from the British Army as a captain in 2002. He has also worked alongside the United Nations in Afghanistan assisting with the first ever presidential elections advising on security, and logistics, and was recently nominated as an Adventurer of the Year.

RUTH ENGLAND has always had a passion for travel and the natural world. After graduating from the University of Westminster, she spent several months living with the Iban tribe in the jungles of Borneo, shooting stills documenting how logging was impacting their traditional way of life. She has traveled the world as a reporter for The Explorer’s Journal, and is currently starring in Discovery Channel’s ‘Man, Woman, Wild’ series with her husband - Green Beret Captain, Mykel Hawke.

JAMES CRACKNELL is one of Britain’s most successful athletes, winning two Olympic Gold medals in Sir Steve Redgrave’s Sydney 2000 boat and again in Athens 2004. Since then he has distinguished himself as a very special sportsman, winning a treacherous 50-day race across the Atlantic, racing from Dover to Africa for BBC’s Sport Relief, and taking part in the Amundsen Omega3 South Pole Race. In 2010 James finished 12th in the brutal Marathon des Sables race across the Sahara Desert - the highest placed Brit in the event’s 25 year history.

SURVIVOR

THE

‘The Pioneers’ are some of the most inspiring and talented people that the Discovery Channel has the pleasure to work with: Bear Grylls, Ed Sta!ord, Ruth England and James Cracknell. They have been chosen specifically to inspire all types of Scouts to identify with them, and encourage them to take up the challenge that the Pioneer Activity Badge provides.

THEPIONEERS?WHO ARE

Get your Troop to take the ‘Pioneer Quiz’ in the activity pack to find out which ‘Pioneer’ they most take after, and get their pioneering spirits going.


1. Demonstrate the following:"! A whipping or safe rope sealing (see page 10).

"! A splice (see page 11).

"! The correct way to coil and store a rope (see page 9).

"! The use of simple blocks and tackle (see page 12).

"! The use of levers to extract objects or move heavy weights (see page 13).

"! Anchorages for firm and soft ground (see pages 14).

"! An understanding of the need for supervision and safety in pioneering projects (see page 7).

2. Name and tie at least 6 knots and 4 lashings useful in pioneering (see pages 15-21).

3. As a member of a group, take part in the following:"! An indoor pioneering project, for example, constructing a catapult or land yacht (see pages 25-27).

"! An outdoor pioneering project for example, building a monkey bridge, raft, or aerial runway (see pages 28-32).

The Pioneer Activity Badge gives you the opportunity to encourage young people to take on new challenges both indoors and out, and live their lives to the full.

For your Scouts to achieve the badge they will need to:

THE

ACTIVITY BADGEPIONEER REQUIREMENTS

The following pages outline the basic elements needed to teach the Pioneer Activity Badge, but are by no means comprehensive. There’s plenty more information online at: www.scouts.org.uk and other related sites, where you can find more knots, more lashings, more projects, more of everything you need to get your Scouts imagination going.


Pioneering used to refer to the work of military engineers who went ahead of the army on foot, building bridges, roads and generally preparing the way. They got there first, often all alone and in the wild, and had to make do with what they could find, using their knowledge of knots, lashings, blocks and tackle, and anchors to build everything from stretchers to bridges.

The Pioneer Activity Badge continues this tradition, inspiring confidence, building teamwork, and firing the imagination of your Scouts. The following pages contain all the basic information you need to start teaching it, and a few hints and posters to help get your Troop involved.

4BASIC ELEMENTS

OF PIONEERING

THE


SAFETY IN PIONEERING

to be attached to the participant and ensure adequate supervision."! Check all knots and lashings before the project is used by anybody. Ensure that all ropes are suitable for their intended use. Do not use ropes for weights more than 50% of the manufactures safe working load.

The safe working load is also a!ected by:"! Weather conditions. "! Age of the rope. "! Knots used in the rope. "! The way that lashings are done. "! The edges that the rope is passing over. "! The strain that is being put on the rope by the project. "! The condition of the rope."! Use the correct knots and lashings for the specific weight bearing needs of the project. The lashing frapping must be done as tight as possible for square and diagonal lashing. Use appropriate engineering structural principles in pioneering.

Pioneering must be supervised at all times by an appropriate adult. The project must be properly planned before commencing so that any specific safety issues can be identified, and also that:"! Leaders can ensure that all of the equipment is available."! Leaders should sight and pre-check all equipment before the project."! Laid natural ropes must be twisted open so that the condition of the core can be checked out. If the condition is in doubt, remove it. Check that all ropes are secured at both ends."! Pre-check poles before usage. Long poles can be checked by dropping an end on hard ground and listening to its sound. Good poles should ring. Check visually for signs of white ants or rotting. Make sure that the poles will not bend under reasonable strain. "! When a project is at a height where a potential fall could result in an injury, develop a backup safety line

Before you do anything or go anywhere, you MUST consider the safety aspects involved. This is paramount when looking after your Troops. Here are some basic rules and guidelines for a healthy, happy and safe pioneering Troop.

ABOUT


Whether you are mending a strap on a rucksack, or swinging down the side of a cli!, it’s important to use the right kind of rope.

TYPES OF ROPEString, twine, cord and rope are pretty much the same thing. They are all made by twisting fibres together. The main di!erence is in their thickness and strength, and the material from which they are made, which may be natural fibres or synthetic fibres.

Natural ropes use plant fibres such as hemp, sisal, coir, manila, jute and cotton. They are flexible, soft, and fold more easily than synthetic ropes. Synthetic ropes, made from nylon, polyesters and polythene, tend to be lighter, stronger and last longer.

LAID OR BRAIDEDMost ropes are made in one of two ways: Laid ropes use three strands of fibres twisted around each other. The fibres may be natural or synthetic. This is the traditional way of making rope and gives it more strength because if one fibre snaps, the other two may still hold. Braided rope is usually made of synthetic material. It has an even number of strands, often eight or twelve, which are braided or plaited together into a circular tube.

The centre of the tube may be empty, or filled with an inner core of more twisted or braided strands.

A BIT ROPES

Rope is fundamental to pioneering. There are many situations in which a length of string or rope can be a lifesaver, especially when it is used to create an essential piece of equipment. These are the basics:

SIZES OF ROPE Ropes come in many types and sizes and to simplify matters you should use the following as a guide."! 75mm rope (25mm diameter) or larger, certainly no smaller than 75mm, should be used whenever it is intended to hold weight such as in the case of a monkey bridge, foot and hand rails, aerial runways, and commando rope bridges. The size of a broom handle is approx. 25mm diameter."! 50mm rope (16mm diameter) should be used for ‘reeving’ up pulleys and anchors and for rope ladders. The size of a man’s thumb is approx. 16mm-18mm diameter"! 25mm rope (8mm diameter) should be used for guy ropes in general, on large structures this size would need to be increased. The size of an index finger is what is known as sash cord or a heavy cloths line.Rope lengths will vary according to

how they’re bought. 25 metre lengths will normally cover most projects as the distance between sheer legs or rope bridges shouldn’t exceed 15 metres to avoid ‘flip over’. Flip over occurs when the slack in the rope acts like a skipping rope, when pressure is applied to the middle of the rope it becomes unstable and sways resulting in throwing o! the ‘rope crosser’ or entangling them in the ropes, which is extremely dangerous.

As most of the ropes used in pioneering structures require an element of friction, hawser laid ropes of natural fibre such as sisal or hemp are preferred, but they are more expensive and need care and attention as the fibres can rot if not dried carefully.

Synthetic ropes are cheap but require extra care particularly when fixing the ropes to trees and poles. The ropes are generally smoother than hemp or sisal ropes and the knots have a tendency to slip under pressure. To ensure safety and prevent slippage you should secure all knots with extra hitches.

WHIPPING & SPLICING Splices are used to join any two parts of rope together permanently instead of a knot, as a good splice has up to 95 per cent of the rope’s strength, while a knot’s e"ciency varies from only 45 to 60 per cent of the rope’s strength.

Whipping prevents the ends of freshly cut rope rapidly fraying and unlaying. Before using a rope, whip the two ends to keep them from unravelling.

There are several methods of both whipping and splicing ropes, more details of which can be found on the following pages.


CARING FOR ROPENo rope lasts for ever, but careful handling should help to ensure it doesn’t fray or break at the worst possible moment. Always:"! Store it somewhere dry and shady. Wet rope should be allowed to dry naturally and the ends should be bound or fused to prevent fraying."! Keep it as clean as possible and avoid stepping on it. Dirt and grit may get into the rope and damage the fibres."! Coil rope when not in use. This prevents it from becoming tangled or kinking. It also makes it easier to handle and carry."! Check rope regularly for kinks, fraying or other signs of wear and tear. Do not use damaged rope for load bearing.

How to coil a ropeLaid rope naturally prefers to fold one way rather than another, depending on how it was made. It’s best to allow it to do this as it avoids putting unnecessary stress on the fibres.

1 Leave a length of rope before starting the first

coil. Rope can be coiled flat on the ground or hanging from one hand. Make each coil about the length of your forearm.

2 Give the rope a little shake as you coil it so

that it does not twist or kink. Leave a length free at the end of the rope B and hold the coil firmly in one hand.

3 Fold length A into a loop and lay it along

the coil. Wrap length B around the loop a few times to bind it in place. Make sure the top of the loop and the end of length A are still showing.

4 Feed the end of length B through the end of

the loop and pull length A to tighten the loop around length B. Tie the two ends together with a reef knot.

ROPE REPAIRIf a rope does become frayed or damaged it may be worth cutting away the damaged section and continuing to use the remaining lengths.

However, unless you are sure that the rest of the rope is completely undamaged, it is best not to use it for weight-bearing purposes.

The cut ends will need to be sealed to prevent them from unravelling. Ropes made of plastic fibres can be heated to melt the ends and fuse them together. Natural fibres will need to be to be bound or whipped.

USEFUL TERMSWhen learning about di!erent ways to knot and use rope, you may come across the following terms:

WORKING END – the end you are using to tie a knot.STANDING END – the opposite end to the working end.STANDING PART – any part of the rope between two ends.

LOOP – a loop made by folding the rope back on itself and crossing the standing part.BIGHT – a loop made by folding the rope back on itself without crossing the standing part.

A BEND – a type of knot used for tying one rope to another.A HITCH – a way of fastening a rope to another object such as a post, log or rail.

A

A

A

B

BB


SIMPLE/AMERICAN WHIPPING

1 Using a thin twine about 30cm long, make one end into a loop and place

it at the of the rope. End A should be fairly short.

2 Wind the longer end B of the twine around the loop, spiralling away

and drawing each turn tight.

3 When the whipping is a wide as the diameter of the rope, thread

the twine through the end of the loop. Pull end A hard until the loop has disappeared under the whipping.

4 Trim o! the two ends. Then whip the other end of the rope.

For a more permanent type of whipping see the Sailmaker’s whipping below.

WHIPPINGThe ends of a freshly cut rope will rapidly unlay if nothing is done to prevent it. Before using a rope, whip the two ends to keep them from unravelling. There are various methods of whipping a rope:

WEST COUNTRY WHIPPINGThis is the easiest form of whipping.

1 Tie a thumb knot a few centimetres from the end of the rope using thin,

strong twine.

2 Tie another thumb knot at the back of the rope.

3 Continue tying thumb knots on each side of the rope to within

about a centimetre from the end.

4 Finish o! with a reef knot and trim with a sharp knife.

SAILMAKER’S WHIPPING

1 Open the lay of the rope and place a loop of twine around

one strand. Relay the rope.

2 Hold the loop down with one hand, leaving the short end free. With

the long end of the twine make tight turns around the rope, close together, towards the end of the rope.

3 Raise the loop and slip it over the end of the strand it is around. Pull

the short end to tighten. Join the ends of the twine with a reef knot.

4 Trim the end with a sharp knife and rub with wax.

3 4

1 2

3 4

1 2

3 4

1 2

AA

AA

A

B

B

BB

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3

5

7

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8


Splices are used to join any two parts of rope together permanently rather than just tying them together with a knot, as a good splice has up to 95 per cent of the rope’s strength, while a knot’s e"ciency varies from only 45 to 60 per cent of the rope’s strength.SPLICING ROPESBefore beginning to splice, you need a couple of tools - a sharp knife and a marlinspike. The marlinspike is used to help you in opening the lay of the rope at the point where the strand is to be introduced. If you haven’t a marlinspike handy, a 15cm nail will do the job.

The most important step in splicing is the start. Marry the strands correctly and the remaining steps follow easily.

To properly prepare a rope for splicing, unlay the end adequately and whip each strand with a temporary whipping.

Four tucks will hold any splice providing that they are full strands (i.e. not tapered o!).

There are several di!erent ways of splicing rope. This is just one example you can teach your Scouts:

THE BACK SPLICE This is also sometimes called the endsplice’, it is used as a permanent fastening at the end of a rope to prevent unravelling. However, as it causes a bulge at the end of the rope, which might prevent it from passing through a block, for most purposesit is better to whip the end of a rope.

1 Unlay the end of the rope about 12 to 15 centimeters. Hold the rope

upright, where the unlaid strands begin, and make sure that the three strands hang down over your hand with an equal distance between each of them.

2 Make a Crown Knot to start the splice. This is done as follows:

Take one strand 1 and lay it over its neighbour 2, working anti-clockwise.

3 Bring down strand 2 over strand 1 and 3. Take the end of strand 3

over strand, 2 and down through the loop made by strand 1.

4 Tighten each strand in turn by pulling downwards. If you have

tied the Crown Knot correctly, the strands will hang down the rope with an equal distance between them. You are now ready to make the first ‘tuck’.

5 From above the Crown Knot should look like this: With the

marlinspike or nail, lift one of the

strands of the rope immediately below the Crown Knot and pass the end of one of the strands underneath it. Pull tight.

6 Working anti-clockwise, take the end of the next strand and pass

it underneath the next laid strand of the rope. Then take the third end and pass it under the third laid strand of the rope. Pull tight. You have now completed the first ‘tuck’ and if you have done it correctly the strands will hang down with an equal distance between them. After every completed tuck this should be the case.

7 On completion of the first tuck your Back Splice will look like this: Now

complete the second tuck by passing each of the three ends under a strand in turn as described above. At the end of your completed tuck the strands should hang down with an equal distance between them.

8 Four sets of tucks will be enough, after which the ends should be

trimmed o!. If you wish to taper your splice, after the fourth tuck unravel each of the ends in turn and cut one-third of the yarns (see page 2) o!. Tuck again with the thinner strands; reduce the strands by another third and then finish o! the splice with another tuck. Trim o! the ends. Your untapered, untrimmed, completed Back Splice should look like this.

SPLICING

WARNING! MOUSING: All hooked blocks MUST be ‘moused’ if you do not have access to a closed eye hook. Open hooks can not be used without mousing. ‘Mousing’ is done using sisal which is bound around the ‘bill’ and back of the hook as shown. Mousing is not 100% e!ective so it should be checked at regular intervals when in use on a structure.

HOOKED BLOCKSDouble Open Block

Single Closed Block

Single Open Block

Becket

Shell

Sheave

Swallow

Hook

NO GAIN 2:1 3:1 4:1

Anchorage

Two round turns and two half hitches

Strop

Single

Double

Mousing

Catspaw

Hawser

BLOCK & TACKLE

CATSPAW KNOTThis knot is used to connect a line to a hooked pully as shown.

Reeving a simplesingle and doublepulley system

By employing single and doublepulleys di!erent pull ratios can be achieved


A pulley system is one of the 6 ‘simple machines’. It multiplies force to reduce the human e!ort required, meaning you can increase your load lifting and pulling capacity. ‘Blocks and tackle’ is basically the term used for a system of pulley’s and ropes working together.

Some pioneering projects will not need pulleys, but the ones that do can mostly be done using 2 pulleys, a double block and a single block.

The main idea to remember is that the less the e!ort you need to put in, the more rope you need to pull through the system. These two quantities change in proportion.

Blocks and tackle enable you to tension a rope (such as for a bridge), raise heavy weights and have many other uses in pioneering.

"! The size of your blocks will need to be: 150mm for 50mm rope

230mm for 75mm rope

&BLOCKS

TACKLE

Levers are also one of the 6 ‘simple machines’. They are used in pioneering to move heavy objects such as logs and boulders to clear the ground, to remove spars or pickets that are lodged in hard ground, or to help pull up large constructions such as watch towers or gates.

When levers are being used for moving logs, or prising out boulders, care must be taken that the lever is strong enough to withstand the strain that is being placed on it.If you are using a lever to lift an object, lift it only a small distance at a time and place a roller or solid block under the object as you lift it. This will enable you to reposition thelevel after each lift. Work as a team to complete these type of tasks as accidents can happen if lifting is not undertaken with care.

DO’S & DON’TS1. When lifting a heavy load by hand,

bend your knees, not your back.

2. Never carry a heavy load that can be rolled.

3. When sharing a heavy load never drop one end without warning.

LEVER SPAR

THE GIRAFFE OR SIMPLE DERRICK

Dig small holes in the ground to take the butts.


&LEVERS

LIFTING

3-2-1 HOLDFAST

THE

LOG & PICKET

THE

DEADMAN’S

THE

Sacking to protect tree


ANCHORAGES

Anchorages are used to hold larger pioneering projects down to make them stable and safe. There are 3 main anchorages used in pioneering: The 3-2-1 Holdfast, the Log and Picket, and the Deadman’s, which will hold tents and the like down even in soft ground such as sand.

SIMPLE ANCHORSIf at all possible you should anchor your ropes to a fixed object such as a tree or rock. However, they are rarely available in the right places so we have to create our own anchors. With the 3-2-1 Holdfast and the Log and Picket, the pickets should be at least 160cms long and put in position with a sledge hammer or large mallet. If the ground is soft they may need to be longer. The pickets should be set in the ground at 60 degrees and the bindings between pickets should always run from the top of one picket to the bottom of the other.

PROTECTION OF TREESIf you are fixing a rope or spar you should be careful not to damage the bark. This can be done by using some sacking or old canvas to protect the bark from friction.

It may also be necessary to use sacking or padding on a structure if the rope will be subject to excessive friction, particularly in the case of a monkey bridge. This is particularly important when using synthetic ropes as they are prone to melt if in a friction situation or if two ropes are rubbing o! each other.

For use with hard ground.

For use with hard ground.

For use with soft ground.

Wrap rope around the pickets and use clove hitches, tight turns and fraps to secure

Use a Round Turn and 2 Half Hitches to tie this rope to the log

Use a Round Turn and 2 Half Hitches to tie this rope to the log

Pickets

90O90O

90O

25O

25O

Pickets

This consists of a line of 6 pickets in order of 3, 2, 1, running straight on from the main hawser. Use 8m lashings.

This consists of a log of not less than 150mm in diameter and 1m in length, and 8 pickets bearing equal weight on the log.

This consists of a log of not less than 150mm in daimeter and 1m in length, buried at least 3 times its diametre in a trench in the ground. A rope tied around the middle is pulled up through the ground at 25o before the trench is filled in and made firm.

Aerial View


> You can make it more interesting and a whole lot cheaper by using cooked spaghetti or liquorice laces instead. You can teach them how to cook the spaghetti first, and eat it afterwards, and liquorice laces can be incorporated into a game where the winner... yep you guessed it, gets to eat all the liquorice!

6BASICKNOTS

THE

TOP TIP

NO.1

On the next few pages you’ll find the 6 basic knots your Scouts need to know to achieve the Pioneer Activity Badge. There are too many knots to list here, but these are the best to get them started.

A common knot for joining together two ends of the same thickness or material. It is often used to tie bandages as the knot lies flat.

HINT One way to remember this knot is: ‘Left over right and under, right over left and under’. Although it can also be tied the other way.

THE REEF KNOT

This is used for joining together two ropes of the same or di!erent thickness.

HINT Tighten the knot by holding the bight in one hand and pulling the standing part of the other rope with the other hand. If one rope is much thinner than the other, or is slippery, it may be necessary to secure the knot by wrapping the working end twice around the bight before threading it under itself and tightening the knot. This is called a Double Sheet Bend.

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2

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1

2

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4

THE SHEET BEND


1 2

3

4

THE BOWLINE

THE TIMBER HITCH

This is a simple way of making a loop of rope that does not slip or tighten. It is often used in climbing and as a lifeline.

SAFETY CHECK Whilst a bowline is not a sliding knot it is important to know that you should never put a sliding knot around your waist or neck, especially if it is carrying your weight. It is likely to tighten up like a noose and could kill you.

The Timber Hitch is used for dragging orlifting heavy logs or other objects. It tightenswhen the rope is taut, but will come undonewhen the rope is slack. Adding a Half Hitchfurther along will make an Anchor Hitch tohold an object more securely.

TIP The Timber Hitch can also be used for starting a lashing

1 A TIMBER HITCH

2 A TIMBER HITCH WITH HALF HITCH


THE ROUND TURN

& TWO HALF

HITCHESThis is a way of attaching a rope to a post,

but is not as secure as the Round Turn and Two Half-Hitches. It is most often used to fix rope to a pole to start a lashing.

HINT Once you are familiar with this knot, it can be ‘ready-made’ by forming two loops in the right order and slipping them on to a pole, then tightening. This method can be used to tie a clove hitch in the standing part of a rope without using the ends.

THE CLOVE HITCH

This is used to attach a rope to a fence, post, or tree, such as when mooring a boat. If tied correctly it won’t slip when pulled.

HINT The two half hitches form a clove hitch.

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2

3

4

1

2

3


TOP TIP

NO.2


> Start with a ‘mini’ pioneering project using smaller and easier versions of the tools you’ll finally use. Use garden/bamboo canes or broom handles and string or thin rope, which are easier to handle and help participants see what they are trying to do without having to move large spars.

5BASIC

LASHINGS

THE

Lashings are used to attach two or more poles together with rope to create a huge variety of structures, from a simple ‘A’ frame to a river crossing Monkey Bridge. These are the basic lashings your Scouts will need to achieve the Pioneer Activity Badge.

This is used for binding together two poles that are not at right angles to each other, or have to be pulled towards each other.

4 Finish by tying a Clove Hitch

on one pole.1 Start by tying

a Timber Hitch across the middle of both poles. Pull the knot tight and wrap the rope three times around the poles in the same direction as the Timber Hitch.

2 Change direction and

wrap the rope three times over the opposite diagonal.

3 Make two or three frapping

turns between the poles to tighten the wrapping.

Diagonal Lashing


LASHINGS

As with knots, there are di!erent lashings for di!erent purposes, depending on what you are making. Most lashings use quite basic knots, mainly the Timber Hitch and the Clove Hitch.

The trick to making strong and secure lashings is to do them as neatly and as tightly as possible. Practise with lengths of cord and a selection of staves, broom handles or garden canes.

In order to have a go at lashing it is essential to have some background knowledge of knots and knotting.

Ropes and knots can be used in a number of ways to lash together sticks, logs, branches or poles to make any number of useful structures, from shelters and rafts to simple camp gadgets.

This is used to bind together two poles that cross each other. It works best when the poles cross at right angles – when making a frame, for example.

Figure of eight or tripod lashing joins together three poles to make a three-legged structure.

4 Finish by tying a Clove Hitch

on the opposite side to where you began.

1 Begin by tying a Clove Hitch on

one of the poles. Wrap the rope under the crossed pole, over the top pole, and back under the crossed pole on the other side to make a complete circuit.

2 Continue wrapping the

rope under and over the poles, pulling the rope tightly each time.

3 After three or four circuits,

change direction and wrap the rope between the two poles, circling the previous turns to make them even tighter. This is known as ‘frapping’.

Square lashing Figure of 8 Lashing

1 Three poles are laid together

so that the centre one points in the opposite direction to the outer two. Start with a Clove Hitch on one of the outside poles.

2 Wrap the rope six or seven

times over and under each of the poles. (Do not make the wraps too tight, otherwise you will not be able to open out the poles into the tripod shape.)

3 Make two frapping turns

between the outer poles and the centre pole.

4 Finish with a Clove Hitch on

the opposite side to the first one.

5 Position the tripod by

turning the centre pole 180o and opening out the two outer poles.


Sheer lashing is used to join two poles together to make one longer one. For strength, the two poles should overlap each other by a least a quarter to one third of their original length, and have a lashing near each end of the overlap.

4 Add a second lashing at the

other end of the overlap.

4 Finish with a Clove Hitch

on the opposite side to the first one. Open out the bottom ends of the two poles.

1 Start by tying a Clove

Hitch around both poles near one end of the overlap. Wind the rope tightly eight to ten times around both poles (for about 10–15 cm).

1 Line up the two poles and

tie a Clove Hitch around the end of one of them. Put a small wedge between the two poles so as not to wrap them together too tightly.

2 Finish with a Clove

Hitch around both poles.

2 Make eight to ten

turns around both poles.

3 To make the lashing tighter,

push small wedges under the lashing.

3 Make two frapping turns

between the poles to tighten the lashing.

Sheer lashing

A similar style of sheer lashing can be used to join two poles of the same size that will be opened out at the bottom to make an A-frame. In this case, only one lashing is required.

Sheer Leg lashing

Useful hints and tips

1 Lashings can easily be demonstrated outside

by lashing two spars across trees. The spars should be at a convenient working height. This prevents people from having to scrabble around on the ground when either demonstrating or practising lashings.

2 Wherever possible, demonstrate lashings

on a one to one basis. Lashings, like many practical skills, are less e!ectively taught in large groups.

3 Another easier way of initially learning to tie

a lashing is to use a thick cardboard tube instead of wooden spars. Cardboard tubes have the advantage of being smooth, of a constant diameter and easy to handle.

4 If you are right-handed, whenever possible, try

to show only another right-handed person how to tie lashings and vice versa for left-handed people.

5 Always sit beside the person you are

training, not face on. It allows the person to follow the movements of the rope and your hands with less confusion.

TOP TIP

NO.3


> A successful pioneering project. It’s easy if you know how. It’s useful to build up a store of di!erent types and thicknesses of cord and rope, and a range of poles and sticks. If you don’t have the space or materials to practise on full-sized structures, make smaller models instead using small sticks, straws, or even shoe laces and bread sticks!

12TOP

PIONEERINGPROJECTS

Once you’ve learned the basic knots and lashings, the only limit to the things you can construct will be the materials at your disposal and your imagination. The following tried and tested projects can be built by your Scouts to achieve the Pioneer Activity Badge, but many more can be found online.

Most structures are formed using di!erent combinations of the same few basic shapes shown here.

Once you have decided which shapes to use and how many, they can be linked together by additional poles and ropes. It is usually better to build your structure from a number of smaller components than to build

fewer but larger sections. The bigger the section, the heavier and more di"cult it is to move.

Each project should be approached in a logical way: What are we trying to do? What equipment do we have? What is the best way to use this equipment? Every project should be approached in this way.

The pioneering projects we have suggested have been tried and tested, however you rarely find a level river bed or trees in the right places for rope bridges etc. so each of the basic designs suggested will probably have to be modified to suit the conditions you encounter.

BASIC SHAPESOnce you’re familiar with making knots and lashings, the only limit to the things you can construct will be your imagination.

BASIC A-FRAME

Sheer Leg lashing

Square lashing

Square lashing

Square lashingSquare lashing

Square lashing

Square lashing

SQUARE TRESTLE RECTANGULAR TRESTLE TRIPOD

EXAMPLE USE OF A-FRAMEA-FRAME WITH DOUBLE BAR

Diagonallashing

Figure of Eight lashing


- Holding Ropes o! the ground - Support - Ladder

STARTED GETTING

MAKING A NETNets have any number of uses: as bags, hanging storage, for fishing, or as a hammock for sleeping. There are two basic ways of making netting – the knotting method and the weaving or knitting method. The simplest is the knotting method shown here.


YOU WILL NEED:– a thicker cord to use

as an edging

– or ‘outer’ line

– thinner cord for the netting

– two upright poles or posts to support

– the outer line

– a piece of wood to use as a spacer.

– depending on how fine or tight you want your net to be, the spacer could be from 1–5 cm long

MAKING A HAMMOCKPlace the two support posts about 2 metres apart so that your hammock will be long enough. Make the net about 1 metre wide. Use strong cord for the net and a thicker rope for the outer lines. Leave plenty of length at either end to hang the hammock. Put poles at each end to hold the hammock open. Make a deep notch in the ends of each pole to hook onto the outer lines.

OUTER LINES SUPPORT LINES

1. Decide how wide you want the net and position the poles accordingly. Tie a length of outer cord between the two poles.

2. Cut equal lengths of netting cord. As a general guide, the depth of your finished net will be just over a third as long as the lengths you start with. The number of lengths you need will depend on how many you can fit across the outer cord, using your spacer.

3. Fold the lengths of netting cord in half. Using the bight end, attach each length to the outer cord with a Prussic Knot. Use your spacer to spread them evenly along the cord. The lengths are now hanging in pairs from the outer cord.

4. Begin from the left, leaving the first strand hanging (the outer half of the first pair). This will become one end of the net. Take the second strand of the first pair and the first strand of the second pair and knot them together using an Overhand Knot. Position the knot one spacer length below the outer cord.

5. Work your way along the line, knotting the second strand from each pair with the first strand of the next until you come to the end of the line and leave the last strand hanging. Use the spacer to keep the row of knots even.

6. Start the second row, but knot the first strand to the second strand this time, to make a diamond pattern. Continue all the way along to the end, also knotting the last strand.

7. Continue repeating the first and second rows until you are near to the end of your lengths.

8. Tie a second length of outer line between the two poles. Loop the ends of each pair of strands twice around the bottom line separate the pair and tie o! like a frapping to tighten the loops on the outer line.

9. Untie the outer lines from the supporting poles and knot the four corners to prevent the net sliding o!. Leave any excess on the ends of the lines to attach your net to other things.

HOW TO MAKE IT:

THICK OUTER LINE

FIRST STRAND PAIRS OF NETTING STRANDS LAST STRAND

PRUSSIC KNOT

OVERHAND KNOT

GADGETS


INDOOR PIONEER PROJECT 1

ROPE LADDER

1. A rope ladder can be made relatively quickly and easily. Simply take a sturdy length of rope and tie as many Manharness hitches in them as you require for hand holds and foot holds.

2. If you require a rope ladder that is more ‘steady’ then repeat as above with two equal lengths of rope. Place strong sticks through the

loops (be sure to tighten the knots to hold the sticks). Note that you should allow the sticks to projects out from either end for safety.

3. It is recommended that you test the strength of the rung ladder (for each rung) before you actually use it.

YOU WILL NEED:– 2 x long lengths of rope, each

rope should be the length you want to climb plus 50%

– enough short poles/staves for the distance you want to climb

HOW TO MAKE IT:

A LAND YACHT

1. Start by forming a simple oblong frame using four of the staves. Each corner fixed using a square lashing.

2. Lash a further two staves along the long centre of the oblong leaving just enough gap between the two to allow a further stave to fit between them. Use square lashings to secure the staves to the oblong frame.

YOU WILL NEED:– 4 x lightweight wheels – small

pram wheels or pneumatic wheels from a diy store are ideal

– 2 x 1.8m axles into which the wheels can fit and be secured

– 1 x plastic sheet approx 1.8m x 1.2m to form sail

– 10 x 1.8m staves, to form the frame and mast

– 12 x 4-5m lashing ropes (sisal is ideal)

– 5 x 3m rope for sail (sisal is ideal)

HOW TO MAKE IT:

3. Then lash a further stave across the short side of the oblong, alongside one of the original staves, again leaving a gap su"cient to allow another stave to fit between them. Again use square lashings to secure them. You should now have a small square hole at one of end of the yacht.

4. Next, secure the axles to the frame using square lashings, ensuring that the wheels will not foul the cross staves when they are attached.

5. Take two of the remaining three staves and lash the centre of one stave to 30cm below the top of the other to form an irregular cross. Take this cross and insert the end into the square formed in the frame. Lash this firmly to the frame, this then forms the mast for the sail.

6. Using the final stave lash one end to the mid point of the mast and the other to the back of the frame.

7. Attach the plastic sheet to the mast to form the sail and tie the bottom and top of the sail to the frame, allowing enough movement for the sail to billow in the wind.

8. Finally, firmly attach the wheels to the axles ensuring the wheels are free to rotate.

9. You are now ready to try your land yacht, be careful they can build up very high speeds in the wind, you should consider adding a tether rope if you are using it in an area where it could potentially hit other people or property.


TROOP CATAPULT


1. Construct 2 A frames using 6 staves.

2. Join the 2 frames together with another 3 staves, so to form a extended triangle (Prism). Next add another stave to the top of one of frame

3. Add a launching bar on one side of the frame using square lashings

4. Now construct a tripod frame using the figure of eight lashing. Then sheer lash the last stave to the middle stave of the tripod.

5. Attached the launching container and light cord for a pull down mechanism.

6. Lash the bottom of the tripod to the launching bar and add the elastic to the launcher.

YOU WILL NEED:– 15 x staves 1.8 metres (6ft Long)

– 19 x light cords

– missile container, preferably a 2-4 pint milk container

– long elastic or lots of elastic bands joined to together

HOW TO MAKE IT:



WIGAN FLAGPOLE

1. Lash together two staves using sheer lashings to make the sta! for the flag.

2. To make the base, lay two staves on the floor 1.6m apart and lay one more stave across the centre to make a letter H. Use square lashings to hold these in place.

3. Before you fix the flag sta! on the base, attach the guy ropes by halving each of the long cords and tying them onto the sta! with clove hitches. If you tie them just

above the sheer lashings they will not slip down. Also attach the pulley and halyard to the top of the flag sta!.

4. Finally, stand the sta! upright and a"x it to the centre of the base using another square lashing. The guy lines are attached to the base to stabilise the structure.

YOU WILL NEED:– 5 x staves 1.8m long

– 4 x light cords about 2m long

– 2 x light cords about 5m long

– 1 x small pulley and halyard from flag

HOW TO MAKE IT:

CAMP TABLE & CHAIRS

TRIPOD HANGER

& HOOK

YOU WILL NEED:– 3 x staves

– a stick with a strong branch joint

– some string/cordFigure of Eight lashing

Pot Hook

Tripod Stand


1. Construct two A frames

2. Lean the two A frames together and join them with two 3 metre spars, which need to rest on the cross members of the A frames.

3. Two 2 metre spars are lashed between the A frames to act as supports for the table top.

4. The last two 3 metre spars are lashed alongside the spars joining the A frames, to form the bench seats.

5. Light spars are used for the table top and tied in place with sisal or light rope.

YOU WILL NEED:– 4 x long spars

– 6 x medium (10 ft) spars

– 2 x short (6 ft) spars

– approximately 20 light spars

– sisal or light rope

HOW TO MAKE IT:



Tripod stands can be used in any number of ways. One of the most useful is to construct a pot hanger to support a lantern, or a cooking pan over a fire (this would have to be done outdoors though!). Add an adjustable hook and you can raise and lower your hook as required. When using in cooking moving the hook up and down allows you to control the temperature.

1. Use a Figure of Eight (Tripod) lashing to make the stand.

2. For the variable pot hook, you will need a strong piece of wood with several branches.

3. Strip the bark o! the wood to make sure there is no rot to weaken it.

4. Cut the branches to about 10cm stumps. Lash the hook to the stand.

5. Test the hook for strength before lighting the fire and hanging a pot full of food on it.

HOW TO MAKE IT:

BARREL RAFT

BASIC SHELTER If you need an additional shelter, or are caught outside without a tent, it’s useful to know how to build a lean-to or bivouac shelter. The shape and style of your lean-to will depend on the materials you have to build it.

USING A SHEET

USING STICKS


OUTDOOR PIONEER PROJECT 2

1. Start by making a simple square frame, fixing each corner with a square lashing.

2. Fix a further two spars along the length of frame each narrower than the diameter of the barrels.

3. Fix the remaining two spars across the width of the frame lust greater than the length of a barrel.

4. Once the frame is complete you can drop each barrel into the oblong section created for it. The barrel should not fall through if you have made the frame the

correct size. Lash each barrel to the frame using the longer lashing ropes. The tighter the lashings the longer the raft will last.

5. Finally lash the plank to the raft to form a seat.

6. You are now ready to paddle away, the better your lashings the less likely the raft is to fall apart!

YOU WILL NEED:– 4 x stave 2m long

– 4 x staves 1.5m long

– 9 x 25 litre plastic drums

– sisal

– at least two oars

– buoyancy aids

HOW TO MAKE IT:

YOU WILL NEED:– plastic sheeting, strong cord,

and pegs, stones or stakes.OR– long straight sticks to use for

ridge poles, two supports, and some leafy branches.

OUTDOOR PIONEER PROJECT 1

1. If you have a plastic sheet, the illustration on the left shows you one example of how to make it, but there are many variations on this theme. Tie the cord around nearby trees, throw over the tarpaulin and tie or hold down with stakes, stones or pegs.

2. Trim any protruding twigs from the sticks and sharpen the bottom end of the two supports. Hammer them into the ground with a heavy rock. Balance the ridge pole between the

two support poles, lashing them in place. The ridge pole should be strong enough to support the shelter roof. Let it extend beyond the support poles at both ends.

3. Cut more long sticks to form a 450 angle from the ridge pole to the ground and lash them in place to make a roof frame. Build the roof by weaving thinner sticks across the frame and pushing leafy branches in and out of the sticks.

HOW TO MAKE IT:

MONKEY BRIDGE

!


PIONEER PROJECT 3 OUTDOOR

YOU WILL NEED:– 4 x spars 3.6m long

– 2 x spars 2m long

– 8 - 10 light spars for ladder rungs

– lashing lengths

– additional light lines 2 - 3m long

– 3 hawsers 20 - 24m long

– 1 pulley suitable for hawsers

– 1 x Handy Billy

– sisal

– sacking

– large pegs or pickets

This bridge will require substantial ground anchors at each end. Before you start building, check to see if there are any suitable trees to act as anchors. If you do use trees, do not forget to protect them from abrasion by wrapping them in sacking.

1. Construct 2 A frames by laying 2 x 3.6m spars alongside each other and tying a sheer lashing approx 1 1/2m from the top. Open the spars out and lash a 2m spar across the base, using square lashings.

2. Lash light spars above the base to form a simple ladder.

3. To protect the ropes, place some sacking in the crutch of the frame and secure it in place with sisal.

4. Tie guy ropes to the top of the spars.

5. To make the walkway, lay the foot rope on the ground and mark the approximate position of the A frame.

6. Place the hand rope about 1.25m either side of the foot rope. It is a good idea to peg these ropes down to maintain the spacing during the next stage.

7. Using the light line (6mm polypropylene is ideal) attach the middle to the foot rope with a clove hitch and the ends to the hand ropes with a round turn and two half hitches. The bridge will require a vee rope every metre or so.

8. With the A frames in position, but still on the ground, check the alignment of the bridge - the frames must be in a straight line between the ground anchors/trees.

9. Anchor one end of the foot rope using a round turn and two half hitches and fit a Handy Billy to the other.

10. Raise one A frame at a time and guy them when they are upright. Heel the butts into the ground to stop them sliding during use.

11. As you tension the foot rope, use a light spar to ease it over the A frame otherwise it will lock in the crutch and tend to pull the frame over. Make the other end of the rope o! and remove the Handy Billy.

12. The bridge should now be strong enough to allow the A frames to be climbed. Attach the hand ropes to the top of the spars using a loose square lashing. Tension them o! using the Handy Billy and then tighten the lashings with a couple of frapping turns.

Note: The tension in the hand ropes must be the same. This can be achieved either by using a very long rope doubled back on itself or by looping the two ropes together and placing a single large pulley block in that loop. The ropes are tensioned with the Handy Billy attached to this block.

HOW TO MAKE IT:

LOOK OUT TOWER

!

YOU WILL NEED:– 4 x 3.6m-5m (12-16ft) spars

– 8 x 2.5m (8ft) spars

– 6 x 2m (6ft) spars

– approx 24 x 2m (6ft) light spars

– 4 x 1.5m (4ft) light spars

– lashing lengths

– rope ladder

– large pegs or pickets

OPTIONAL - TO RAISE THE TOWER

– 3 x 3.5m (12ft) spars

– 3 x ropes approx 20m (65ft) long

– 1 pulley

1. Start by making 2 trestles using the longest spars for the sides, a 2m spar for the top rail and a 2.5m spar for the bottom rail. Brace each side with a single 2.5m spar.

2. Lay the trestles on their sides and join them using 2 x 2m spars and 2 x 2.5m spars. Ensure these top rails are in top of the existing rails, as they will form the supports for the platform. Brace the sides with two more 2.5m spars.

3. The platform is made from lightweight spars or staves that may not have su"cient strength to span the two metre gap, so lash two additional 2m spars across the top of the tower.

4. Reserve 4 x 2m light spars then lash the remaining to form the floor of the platform.

5. Use the 4 x 1.5m spars as uprights for the handrail and join them with the reserved 4 x 2m light spars for handrails. Brace if necessary.

6. Tie the rope ladder to one of the top rails.

7. To raise the tower, prepare a tripod and hang the pulley from the centre. Position this about 10m from the base of the tower. Tie two long ropes to the back corners of the tower (not the handrail). Fix the third rope to the middle of the front of the tower and feed it through the pulley. Use this rope to raise the tower while it is steadied by others using the back ropes.

8. Peg the bottom of the rope ladder to the ground. The tower should be stable enough to be free standing but if you have the slightest doubt, knock in large pegs or pickets by each foot and lash the legs to them and/or guy it.

HOW TO MAKE IT:



CAMP DRESSER

YOU WILL NEED:– 11 x 2m (6ft) staves

– 27 x 1m (3ft) staves - at least

– 9 x 0.5m (18”) staves

– sisal for lashings

1. Start by preparing the back of the dresser. Reinforce the bottom of 2 of the 2m staves by taping 2 x 1m staves to one end of each. Join these staves with 2 further 2m staves, one at the bottom, lashing right round all three staves, one at the top of the 1m staves.

2. Lash a 2m stave diagonally to reinforce the top and the bottom of the back of the dresser.

3. Tape 2 x 3 1m staves to make the reinforced legs of the front of the dresser and join them with 2 x 2m staves.

4. Join the front to the back with 2 x 1m staves at each end.

5. Strengthen the sides by lashing 2 x 2m staves, one either side, from the bottom front corner to near the top of the 2m stave at the back of the dresser. Lash each stave to the top of the side of the dresser. The dresser will now be quite stable.

6. Lash 1 x 1m stave to one end of the table top then lay the remaining 1m staves on the top of the dresser

from the other end and hold in place with a snake lashing. The gap between the single stave and the rest should be just enough to hold a square washing up bowl.

7. Using short (0.5m) staves, lash one either side between the 2m upright and the side diagonal bracing, about half way between the table top and the top of the upright.

8. Prepare the plate rack by lashing 3 x 2m staves across the back of the dresser - one on the short side staves in front of the diagonal, one in front of the upright and the third where the upright and diagonal meet.

9. The dividers for the plate rack are the remaining 0.5m staves and they are lashed a plate width apart to the 2 x 2m staves which join the front of the top of the dresser. The plate rack will not go right across the dresser and cup hooks can be made from twigs and sisal and hung from the other side.

HOW TO MAKE IT:



An aerial runway is a rope slide that stretches between two fixed points, and is angled su"ciently to enable a pulley block to slide down its length using gravity as its only source of propulsion. The aim is to move a person from point A to point B, often over some kind of obstruction, such as a ravine, piece of water, rough ground or similar. The ‘rider’ will go to the start point, is secured into the seat and then lets the pulley slide down the course of the runway until it reaches its finish point, where the ‘rider’ dismounts.

The Aerial Runway is one of the most exciting projects you can make, for both the children and the adults! It’s a bit too complicated to go into here, but if you go to http://scouts.org.uk/supportresources and search for ‘Aerial Runways’, you will find everything you need.

AERIAL RUNWAY

THE BRAKE

HAVE YOU STUDIED

THE AERIAL

RUNWAY CODE?

HOW TO MAKE IT:



TOP TIP

NO.4

On the next few pages you’ll find ideas and tips to help you teach, and posters to print out and put up to encourage interest and sign up.


TIPSTEACHING

POSTERS& OTHER IDEAS

> You don’t have to live near a river to build a bridge. You can get creative and make your own river with hay bales, polyethylene sheeting and water.

We’ve produced this pack with Scout Leaders in mind, so if you have any tips or ideas of your own please let us know. You can email us at: [email protected], and we’ll be sure to incorporate it when we review the pack. In the meantime, happy pioneering!


TRAINING GAMES ! Travois racing - In small groups or teams, participants are asked to make a simple triangular framework using three square lashings. The object of the game is to move one member of the team from one point to another as quickly and safely as possible. Make certain the structure is safe before allowing the team to start along the course. The game can be completed by dismantling the ‘travois’ and making the equipment ready for storage.

! Get out of that - Again, in small groups or teams, the participants are given an imaginary scenario, such as needing to cross a six metre wide river (otherwise known as two parallel pieces of rope six metres apart), using only the equipment that you have provided them with (such as a selection of spars and ropes and anything else you feel is appropriate). You can have time limits, rules such as not allowing anyone to go into the ‘river’, or blindfolded or ‘disabled’ team members. It’s up to you!

! Raft racing - Using ‘mini-pioneering’ techniques, get each group or team (or individuals) to make a raft which will float for a given distance or amount of time in a large bowl, or other suitable container, of water.

! Reactor transporter - Each small group or team is given six staves

TEACHING & GAMES

or lightweight poles, 4 x 2 metre lengths of cord/sisal, 6 metres of twine, one large tin can and a nut or other suitable metal object. When the game begins, each team has to construct a triangular frame and a tripod which are lashed together and then the tin can and nut

TEACHING KNOTS ! Introduce the knot and talk about what it does, what it is used for and any interesting stories that go with it e.g. Sheet bend – used by sailors to tie the corner of the sail (sheet). When teaching knots, it makes it easier if all participants use the same terminology (please see the glossary on page 36).

! Demonstrate the knot. Talk about what you are doing. Break it down into simple steps. Make up a story.

! Get the Scouts to tie the knot. Praise those who do it correctly. Help those who did not get it right and then praise them too. Have fun.

! Have the Scouts do it again until it becomes familiar. Ask those who have succeeded to help those who are still trying to work out how it all fits together.

! Tie the knot behind your back. ! Tie the knot as part of a relay team. ! Tie the knot to be rewarded with something special.

The best way to teach is to make it fun and practical and have confidence in your own ability. Here are some tips on how to get the best out of your Scouts


PIONEER ACTIVITY BADGE

SPORTS DAYCreate your own Pioneer Activity Sports Day. A chance to have fun while practising for your Pioneer Activity Badge. Below are some ideas to get you started, but plenty more can be found online.

! Have a picnic or BBQ and get family and friends involved.

! Have relay races with the knots and lashings

! Play the big beetle game One beetle needs: 8 short pieces of rope (string)1 beetle head (cardboard with hole for attaching to body)2 antennae - 2 pieces of wire in a loop 2 eyes - 2 large circlesPlayers need a bucket, large dice, tape and glue, Long pieces of rope, short rope.

Each Scout throws a dice in turn. A 6 must be thrown first to get the body (the bucket). Then when a 5 is thrown, the head is attached with a reef knot. Then when a 4 is thrown, the legs are attached with reef knots. At the 3, the tail is attached, which is a short piece of rope tied in a reef knot. When the next player rolls a 2, the antennae are stuck to head with tape. When a 1 is thrown, glue the eyes into place. When the beetle is complete, a long rope is tied around the neck with a bowline and the beetle is dragged across the finishing line some distance away.

! Play a fire rescue game. Divide the Troop into 2. One Scout from each team stands about 20 feet from the rest of their team. Each team is then given several short pieces of rope which have to be tied together with a square knot into one length, so that it can be thrown to their single team mate who is then pulled to “safety” from the fire.

! Make sure special treats or prizes are planned

! Have pioneering races to see who can build a specified project the fastest.


GLOSSARYAnchorage: A secure object which will hold a heavy strain without moving.Becket: The fixed eye on the tail of a pulley-block.Belay: To secure a rope under strain to some such fixture as a cleat or bollard.Bend: A joining knot.Bight: This word has two meanings. A bight is a loop right. The bight is the total length between two ends.Block: A pulley (or pulleys) mounted in a frame or ‘shell’ of wood, galvanised iron, or laminated steel.Blocks & Tackle: A mechanical device comprising two or more blocks through which a rope had been reeved to increase pulling power.Brace: A spar connecting two others to give support or strength.Butt: The heavy end of a spar.Cane: Bamboo/stick under 1in.Chock-a-block: A term indicating that the blocks in a tackle have been drawn together so that no further pull is possible.Cleat: A piece of wood or metal having two horns round which a halyard or line is belayed (as at the foot of a flagsta!).Cordage: A generic term for all cords, lines, or ropes, sometimes taken as meaning only cords and lines below one inch in circumference.Derrick: A simple form of crane consisting of a single spar, usually hinged at the butt so that it can be swung, raised or lowered.Falls: The returns of rope in a block and tackle (e.g. a tackle comprising two single blocks would have three falls).Fid: A pointed pin, usually of lignum vitae, used to open the strands of a rope when splicing.Frapping: The last few turns of a lashing put on at right-angles to the others to draw them together.Free End: The end of a rope which is being used, sometimes referred to as the running part.Grommet: In scouting parlance, a rope quoit.Gun & Tackle: A method of using a rope or strops to move a cylindrical object by rolling it.Guys or Guylines: Ropes supporting a vertical object or structure (e.g. a flagsta! or derrick).Gyn: A tripod used to weights vertically.Haft: The wooden handle of an axe, adze, or similar tool.Handy Billy: A small tackel.Halyard: A light line for raising and lowering flags, sails etc.

Hawser: A heavy three-standed rope laid up right-handed, usually of 3in or more in circumference.Heel: The butt, or heavy end, of a spar. (To heel in means to sink in the ground).Hew: To cut with an axe.Hew & Score: Flattening one side of a log by making a number of lateral saw cuts of equal depth and flaking out the chips with an axe.Hitch: A knot used in making fast, or securing a rope to another rope or object. Will not hold in position by itself.Holdfast: Another name for an anchorage.Lash, to: To bind together securely with rope or cord.Lashing: A rope or cord by which two or more objects (e.g. spars) are bound tightly together.Lay: The direction in which the strands of a rope are twisted up together (e.g. hawsers are laid up right-handed, in a clockwise direction, while cable are laid up left-handed, against the clock).Ledger: In Scouting parlance, the horizontal spar across the legs of a trestle or sheerlegs near the butts.Luff: The name given to a very strong tackle consisting of two blocks, one single, one double, carrying ropes of 2in thickness or more.Marline: Light two handed string.Marlin Spike: A pointed steel pin used to open the strands of a wire rope when splicing.Maul: A heavy wooden mallet, sometimes called a ‘Beadle’.Marry: To join to ropes together side by side so that they are handled as one, or to interlace the strands of two ropes alternately preparatory to splicing them together.Make Fast: To secure a rope so that it will hold when the strain comes on to it.Mousing: To close the hook of a block with spunyarn or other thin, strong twine.Parbuckle: A method of using a single rope to move, raise or lower a cylindrical object by making use of the rolling movement.Picket: A pointed stake of wood or steel.Pulley: The rotating part of a block.Purchase: A combination of bocks in a tackle where power is gained.Reeve: The act of passing a rope through a block, or blocks, to form a tackle.Rope: Cord over 0.5in in diameter.Saddle: In Scouting parlance, a piece of sacking or other material placed in the crutch of sheerlegs to enable the rope to run freely and to minimise chafing caused by friction.

Seizing: Binding with sailtwine, spunyarn or other light cordage to secure the end of a rope to the standing part after making a knot.Shakes: Faults in the grain of spars and other timber, frequently unseen.Sheave: The pulley-wheel of a block.Sheers or Sheerlegs: A triangular structure of spars.Sisal: A species of hemp fibre used in manufacturing of ropes and light cordage. In Scouting parlance, the word is often taken to mean sisal twine of two or three strands.Sling: A band, loop, or other arrangement of rope or material for suspending, hoisting, or transferring a load.Snatch-block: A single block with a hinged metal strap which can be opened to take the bight of the rope (i.e. without the necessity of reeving the end through the block).Spanish Windlass: A device to increase the strain on a rope by using a horizontal spar as a lever to wind the rope around an upright.Spar: A pole, or length of round timber more than 3in in diameter.Spunyarn: Hemp string, usually tarred, used in whipping the ends of ropes and for mousing the hooks of blocks.Staves: 1in -2in broom handles.Stop, to: To tie down the coils of a rope, to seal the end of laid rope (e.g. a backsplice can be used to stop the end of a rope) or to prevent a rope from running out through a block.Strop: A ring of rope which is not being handled.Shell: The wood or metal casing of a pulley-block.Swallow: The space between the sheaves and the shell of a pulley-block through which the tackle is reeved.Tackle: The apparatus of blocks and ropes for lifting, lowering or pulling.Tail: The extreme end of a rope beyond the knot or lashing. The end of a pulley-block which carries the fixed becket.Tip: The lighter end of a spar, opposite to the butt.Toggle: A pin, generally of wood, put through a loop or eye at the end of a rope.Transom: In scouting parlance, the spar across the top of a trestle.Trestle: A rigid structure of six spars lashed together with two legs, two horizontal cross-members (the transom and the ledger) and two diagonal braces.Whipping: Binding the end of a rope with twine to prevent it fraying or unlaying.

SHIPWRECKED ON A DESERT ISLAND

WITH ONLY THE MONKEYS FOR COMPANY?

WE KNOW WHAT YOU’RE THINKING...

WHATWOULDBEAR DO?

SIGN UP FOR THE PIONEER


ADVENTURER

THE

RACING ACROSS THE SAHARA WITH ONLY A GIANT

SAND DUNE BETWEEN YOU AND THE FINISH LINE?


WHATWOULD

JAMES DO? SIGN UP FOR THE PIONEER


CHAMPION

THE

STRANDED IN ALASKA WITH NO

SHELTER AND A STORM APPROACHING?


WHATWOULDRUTH DO?

SIGN UP FOR THE PIONEER


DAREDEVIL

THE

TRAVELLING UP THE AMAZON

WITHOUT A THING TO EAT?


WHATWOULD

ED DO? SIGN UP FOR THE PIONEER


SURVIVOR

THE

WOULDBEAR DO?

COULD YOU BE A DISCOVERY PIONEER?

You are trapped alone on a desert island with no food or

shelter and a perfect storm approaching.

Are you thinking:

A: ‘I WANT MY MUMMY!’

B: ‘AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAGGGHHHH!’

or C:

To find out if you’ve got what it takes, just answer this simple multiple choice question:

IF C, grab yourself some rope (or even

some liquorice laces) and get pioneering.

Talk to your Scout Leader to find out more.

WHAT

ADVENTURER

THE

You are in the middle of watching the grand finale at the

circus when there is a load snap and the tent begins to tilt

dangerously over to one side.

Are you thinking:

A: ‘HELP! SOMEBODY SAVE ME!’

B: ‘AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAGGGHHHH RUN AWAY!’

or C:

To find out just answer this simple multiple choice question:

THEY SHOULD HAVE USED

A ROUND TURN & 2 HALF HITCHES

ON THAT

HAVE YOU GOT WHAT IT TAKES

TO BE A DISCOVERY PIONEER?

IF C, don’t just stand there! Grab some rope

and some friends and get pioneering.

Talk to your Scout Leader to find out more.

Bear Grylls

Two things matter in life: Follow your dreams & look after your friends

CREDITS & THANKS

Both Discovery Channel and The Scout Association would like to thank:

Bear Grylls, Ruth England, Ed Sta!ord and James Cracknell for their

support in this project.

We would also like to thank:

Random House for allowing us to use various illustrations and copy

from the book ‘A Complete Guide To Scout Skills’ throughout this leaflet.

‘Scouts’ Engineering’ from the Irish Scouts Handbook:

http://www.pioneeringprojects.org/projects/index.htm

‘Pioneering Projects Big and Small’: http://www.pioneeringprojects.org/

Knot photographs on pages 16, 17, and 18 ©Markus Bärlocher (Wikipedia)

Images of the ‘Pioneers’ are copyright of Discovery Channel and are used here with the

permission of the talent involved. Any reproduction of these images is strictly prohibited

without the prior consent of Discovery Channel.

©Discovery Channel and The Scout Association 2011. Any reproduction of this leaflet is

prohibited without prior consent from both Discovery Channel and The Scout Association.

Registered charity numbers 306101 (England and Wales) and SC038437 (Scotland) Incorporated by Royal Charter.

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