HOW TO USE AND CARE FOR YOUR

WHITE ZIG-ZAG

SEWING MACHINEMODEL 628

INDEX

Page

Name of Each Part

Principal Features

How to Regulate the Stitch Length

Machine Embroidery

How to Wind the Bobbin

How to Remove and ReplaceBobbin Case 9

How to Thread the Bobbin Case 10

How to Remove the Shuttle 11

How to Insert the Needle 12

How to Thread the Machine 13

Preparing to Sew 14

Removing the Work 14

Page

1 How to Adjust Thread Tensions 15

3 How to Use the Automatic Darner 16

5 How to Embroider with a Hoop 16

6 How to Use Attachments 17

7 1) Narrow Hemmer 17

2 Quilting Guide 19

3 Seam Gauge 19

4) Sewing on Buttons 20

5) Making Buttonholes 20

Drop Feed Adjustment 22

Needle-Thread- Fabric.Stitching (;iide ... 23

Check-up for Smooth Sewing 24

Oiling and Cleaning 25

0-

T!1

Name of Each Part

1 Automatic darner 11 Twin stitch width locks

2 Thread guide 12 Needle plate

3 Spool pins 13 Presser foot

4 Zig-zag stitch regulating knob 14 Cover plate

15 Presser bar5 f-land wheel

16 Needle clamp screw6 Automatic bobbin winder

17 Dial thread tension regulatcr7 Stitch regulating lever

18 Presser foot thumb screw

8 Stitch regulating dial 19 Thread guide

9 Bobbin winding tension disc 20 Face plate

10 Drop feed dial 21 Thread take-up lever

—2—

PRINCIPAL FEATURES

1. Stitch length regulation. The length of the stitch is

controlled by a dial located on the right of the arm.See Fig. 2 Turn the knob right to shorten the stitch

and left to lengthen.

The correct stitch length is shown by numbers on thedial surrounding the knob. Near zero is the shorteststitch, 5 the longest. To change stitch length, moveforward-reverse lever to neutral position Fig. 2

When stitch length is set, push lever down to sew forward, up to sew backward.

2. Stitch width regulation. To set the width of thestitch at the size required, move the zigzag stitch knobshown in Fig. 3 to right or left.

The width of the stitch, from straight sewing to thewidest zigzag, is indicated in red above the knob.Lock twin knobs at width or widths preferred. Thestitch width is set at the far left for straight sewing.

Fig. 2

3. Automatic darner. By turning clockwise the burlci

nut A shown in Fig. 4. pressure is released from the foot

so that fabric can be moved freely for darning au

mending. For lighter than normal pressure, push tli

cap B down part way. To return to normol pressure b

ordinar Yor heavy fabrics, push cap H down all ihe \va\

1. Automatic bobbin winder. The bobbin winder is engaged by

pressing the lever marked “Push”, Fig. 5.

When the bobbin is fully wound the winding stops automatically.

A

Fig. 4

4—

Fig. 5

HOW TO REGULATE THE STITCH LENGTH

The stitch length is regulated simply by turning the knob shownin Fig. 6, with the forward-reverse lever in neutral. To lengthenthe stitch turn knob to left, to shorten, return to right. Refer tochart below for approximate number of stitches per inch obtainedat various settings.

STITCH LNTh CHART

Figures on the dial 0 1 2 3 4 5

Number of stitches No feed-per inch ing 32 16 11 8 6

1. To sew forward. Turn knob until marker on stitch indicatorpoints to figure corresponding to the number of stitches per inchrequired for the work you are doing. Then push the forwardreverse lever down as far as it will go.

2. To sew backward. Push the forward-reverse lever up as faras it will go. This “backtacking” locks the seams and eliminatestying of threads.

—5—

MACHINE EMBROIDERY

The knurled zigzag stitch lever knob A shown

in Fig. 7 is used to vary the stitch width while

you are doing machine embroidery. If you donot set the locks B and C you can swing theneedle freely between the narrowest andwidest stitches.

The stitch width required for operations suchas monogramming and making buttonholesis set by moving the zigzag stitch lever tothe stitch width most suitable on the indicatorD Fig. 7. Move the locking knobs so that theblack pointers touch the zigzag lever. Turnright to tighten.

When the stitch width is locked on only oneside the knob can be moved freely betweenthat width and the other side.

6 —

N4

HOW TO WIND THE BOBBIN

Turn the clutch nut in the center of the hand wheel toward

you to disengage the sewing mechanism Fig. 8). Place a

spool of thread on a spooi pin, and sup the thread through the

upper arm thread guide and across to the tension disc as

shown in Fig. 9.

Fig. 9

—7—

Insert thread through a hole on edge of bobbin and place bobbin on spindle

of winder Fig. 9). Be sure that the notch in the bobbin fits over the small

pin on the spindle. Press down on lever marked “push” and set machine in

motion. When the bobbin is fully wound, the action of the winder stops auto

matically. Remove from spindle and cut off loose thread end.

If the bobbin winds unevenly adjust the bobbin winding tension disc to the

right or left by loosening the screw. When the disc is in the proper position,

tighten screw.

Before starting to sew again, tighten clutch nut by turning it away from you.

—8—

1

-

HOW TO REMOVE AND

REPLACE BOBBIN CASE

Raise the needle bar to its highest position and

lift up the hinged cover plate. Grasp the bobbin

case by the latch and pull out see Fig. 10

When the latch is closed, the bobbin falls out of

the case readily.

To replace, hold case by latch and place it on

spindle in center of shuttle race. Press firmly

before closing latch, making certain that the

tongue of the case fits into notch on the upper

edge of the race cover.

Fig. 10

—9—

Guide the thread end through theslot on the side of the case andunder the tension spring until itenters the small notch on the edgeof the spring.

HOW TO THREAD THE BOBBIN CASE

Refer to Figs. 11, 12 and 13 to familiarize yourselfwith the procedure. Hold the bobbin case in your

left hand with the tongue pointing up. Let abouttwo inches of thread hang free from the bobbin, andinsert bobbin into case, so that thread will be rotatingcounter.clockwise.

Fig. 11

Fig. 12

Fig. 13

— 10 —

HOW TO REMOVE THE SHUTTLE

When the thread becomes tangled in the hook and

shuttle race it is necessary to take the under thread

mechanism apart and clean it.

Raise the needle bar to its highest position and tilt the

head back. Remove the bobbin case. Push the screws

on either side of the race cover to the outside and the

cover can be removed easily. See Fig. 14. Lift the

hook out.

Brush away all thread and lint from the race, hook and race cover.

Then, holding hook by the center pin, place it in race so that it fits

firmly against driver.

Fit cover over pins on each side of the race, with the notch at the

top. Pull latch screws back over side openings of the cover.

Fig. 14

— II —

HOW TO INSERT THE NEEDLE

Turn hand wheel toward you to raise needle barto its highest point. Loosen needle clamp screw

Fig. 15 and insert needle with its flat side tothe right or toward the screw. Push needle upas far as it will go, and tighten screw securelywith screw driver.

NEEDLEBAR

NEEDLEHOLDER

Fig. 15

NEEDLECLAMPSCREW

Always use the type of needle recommended bythe supplier of your machine. Test on a flatsurface to be sure it is not bent (Fig. 16.

FLAT SIDE

Fig. 16

Ii

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HOW TO THREAD THE MACHINE

Place a spool of thread on spool pin and raise the

take-up lever to its highest point. Refer to Fig. 17.

Pull thread through slot of upper thread guide

down and around tension discs (2)

up into thread check spring (3)

under the thread retainer (4,

up into the middle thread guide (5)

and on up into the eye of the take-up lever 6 Irom

right to left.

Return thread through middle thread guide 7

down through lower guide 8)

and into needle bar thread guide (9.

Thread needle from left to right, puiling about four

inches of thread through needle.

— 13 —

PREPARING TO SEW

Hold the end of the upper thread loosely and

revolve hand wheel toward you slowly until

loop of bobbin thread (Fig. 18) is drawn up

through the needle hole. Draw both threads to

the right (Fig. 19) and under presser foot

toward back of the machine.

IREMOVING THE WORK

Stop machine with take-up at its highest point.Raise presser foot. Pull fabric toward backof machine, keeping thread in presser foot slotto avoid bending the needle. Hold both threadstaut and cut on thread cutter, leaving machinethread ends about four inches long.Nevet operate the machine when it is threadedunless there is material under the presser foot.

Fig. 18

— 14 —

Fig. 19

HOW TO ADJUST THREAD TENSIONSAlways adjust the upper tension with the presser tootdown, as the tension is automatically released when itis raised.To increase the tension on the upper thread, turn dial(Fig. 20) to the right, or clockwise. ‘To decrease, turnto the left. The higher the number on the dial thetighter the tension.Before adjusting the lower tension he sure that themachine is threaded properly. When necessary tochange the bobbin tension, turn small screw cFig. 21)on side of bobbin case clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen.

Bobbin Tension Adjustment Screw

When the upper and under tensionsare properly balanced, a perfect stitchwill be formed with both threads interlocking in fabric (Fig. 22.When the upper tension is too tight,the lower thread is pulled up over theupper thread which is lying flat on thefabric Fig. 23).When the under tension is too tight,the upper thread forms loops over thelower thread lying flat on the fabricFig. 24.

Fig. 22 Perfect stitch

I-Upper thread tension too tight

Fig. 23

—Under thread tension too tight

Fig. 21

Fig. 21

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HOW TO USE THE AUTOMATIC DARNER

To release the pressure from the presser foot so the

material can be moved freely for darning and mend.

ing, turn burled nut (“B”, Fig. 25) in direction of

arrow, or clockwise, and darner “A” pops up.

To return pressure to normal, push darner “A” all

the way down again. For a slighter pressure when

sewing thin materials, push darner only part way

down. Test for correct position on a scrap of fabric. F’g. 25

HOW TO EMBROIDER WITH A HOOP

It is easy to follow a stamped design or to work free

hand when embroidering or monogramming. (See Figs.

26 and 27. Release the pressure from the foot by

turning the burled nut on the automatic darner in the

direction of the arrow, or clockwise. Turn the dial

drop feed to “E” position. Stretch the fabric in an

embroidery hoop, and place under the needle after

removing the presser foot. Set the stitch width at theFic 96

size you prefer and lower the presser bar lifter. Then

operate the machine at a rather high speed while mov

ing the hoop slowly with both hands. Work carefully j/

and he sure to keep fingers out of the path of the needle.F c 27

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HOW TO USE ATTACHMENTS

1. Narrow Hemmer. With the needle in its highestposition replace regular presser font with narrowhemmer Fig. 28For a plain narrow hem, make a 1 8 inch doublefold for about two inches along edge of fabric. Holdeach end of the two-inch fold, slip underneathhemmer. Bring fold up into the scroll of hemmer,draw forward to end and fasten with point of needle.Lower presser bar lifter. Gently pull ends of threadas you start stitching.Guide material slightly to right, and it will automatically take a double turn through scroll.

Lace Trimmed Hem.To attach lace to hem, insert lace in the slot nextto needle Fig. 29 . Sew hem as above. guiding laceunder needle and hem into scroll.

Fig. 28

Fig, 29 17 —

Lace Edge with Invisible Stitching.Hold lace 1 8 inch from raw edge on right side offabric. Insert both in scrnll as for plain narrowhem Fig. 30Let hem roll over and sew in lace. Press lace outflat along edge with hem turned up. For a littlefullness in lace, feed it freely under scroll.

French Seam.With right sides together, place top piece of material1/8 inch inside edge of lower piece.Insert in hemmer scroll, allowing hem to roll overand sew in top fabric, making French seam.

Flat Felled Seam.Open out French seam and insert rolled edge inscroll of hemmer. Edgestitch to lay seam flat Fig.31.

I’

Fig. 30

18 Fig. 31

2. Quilting Guide. This guide for making parallel

rows of stitching is attached by piacing the pronged

holder between the presser foot A and the presser foot

clamp screw B Fig. 32 Adjust the curved bar C

to press lightly on the fabric. By letting the guide

ride on the first stitching line. successce rows vilIFig. 32 be an equal distance apart. When the bar is attached

so that the curved part is to the right of the needle,

it may also serve as a seam width guide.

3. Seam Gauge. Fasten gauge with screw provided

in one of threaded holes in the machine bed next to

the needle plate. Adjust to the seam width preferred

by sliding the slot of the gauge along the screw before

tightening. Guide fabric so edge just touches flat

surface on seam gauge. See Fig. 33.

4

Fig. 33

19 —

4. Sewing on Buttons. Exchange the regular presser

foot for the one provided to sew on buttons. (See

Fig. 34. Turn the feed to “F” position. Place

button and fabric under presser foot. Determine the

width of the stitch needed to enter each hole of the

button by turning the hand wheel slowly toward you

as you adjust the zigzag regulating knob. Then lock

at that width. ‘Fake six or seven stitches to fasten

the button securely. Then turn the knob to 0 and

take two or three more stitches in one hole to lock

the threads. Repeat the procedure when sewing on

four-hole buttons.Snaps and hooks may be stitched on in the same

manner.Fig. 34

5. Making Buttonholes. Replace the regular presser

foot with the buttonhole foot which is equipped with

a measure ment gauge (Fig. 35 . Set the stitch

length near 0 for a very short stitch. The width of

the stitch should be set at 2 oi. slightly under for a

daintier buttonhole. If a heavier buttonhole is req

uired. cord may be strung through the hole in the foot.

Mark the desired length of buttonhole on the fabric

or set the gauge so that the distance between the

curved marker and the needle is equal to that of the

buttonhole. Sew the first side of the buttonhole,

from A to B. stopping the machine with the needle in

the material at the right side of stitching, Fig. 36.

20 -—Fig. 35

I_

B\AFig. 36 Leave needle in fabric.

Turn fabric so that Bbecomes starting pointfor second row of stitches

Lift the presser foot. and using the needle as a pivot turn

the fabric end for end or 180 degrees see Fig. 36

Before lowering the presser foot make sure that the

first row of stitching is lined up straight. Lower presser

foot and turn wheel by hand just enough to raise needle

out o tabric.Turn the feed dial to “F” position and turn zigzag knob

to No. 4 width. Take about five or SiX stitches to make

a bar tack at B. Stop the niachine with the needle out of

the fabric, but leave the presser foot down. Turn’ the feed

dial to “N” and return stitch width in 2 or original

setting.

Proceed to stitch the second side of the buttonhole. When you have reached the end of the first

row of stitching, stop the machine again with the needle out of the fabric.

Leave the presser foot down, turn the feed dial to “F”, set width at 4. and take five or six stitches to

close the buttonhole at A, Stop the machine with the needle out of the fabric, but do not raise the foot.

Return stitch width to 0 and take two or three stitches, which will fasten the bar threads and prevent

ravelling. Cut the buttonhole opening with the seam ripper, being careful not to cut the stttching.

If you plan to make buttonholes on sheer or soft material, place tarlatan or paper, which can be torn

away after stitching, ttnder the fabric And it is always wise to make several buttonholes oti scraps

of fabric before working on the garment.

— 21 —

DROP FEED ADJUSTMENT

The height of the feed dogs can be adjusted to suit

the fabric or type of work being done. Turn dial

(Fig. 37 to “S” position to sew on thin materials.

or all the way to “F” position for darning or

embroidering with a hoop.

Turn dial to the left to return feed to “N” or

normal.Consult the following chart to determine the

position of the drop feed and darner for various

types of sewing.

Type of Sewing Drop Feed Darner Position

Sewing thin material S Silk’, Partially down

Darning, embroidery with E (Embroiderv All the way uphoopSewing thick material N (Normal) Completely down

Fi. 3

22

NEEDLE - THREAD - FABRIC - STITCHING GUIDE

MachineStitches Cotton Mercerized Silk or

Fabric Needle No. per Inch Thread Thread Nylon

Extremely heavy 6 10tarpaulin, sacking, canvas. 4 to to Heavy Dutyduck, etc. 8 30

Heavy upholstery 8 30fabric, ticking, denim, 3 to to Heavy Duty —

leatherette, etc. 10 4(

Medium he2vv 10drapery fabric, velveteen, 2 to to Heavy Duty —

suiting, felt, terry, etc. 12 60

Medium broadcloth, 60percale, gingham, linen, 1 —

chintz, taffeta, sheer wool, to to

shantung. etc.14

14Sheer voile, lawn, climity, 0 to 80crepe. handkerchief linen. 16 to 50 Aplastic film, etc. Piast ic film 100

S to 10

Very sheer chiffon, hatiste, 16 100lace, organdy, ninon, net, 00 to to 50 Amarquisette, etc. 20 150

23

CHECK-UP FOR SMOOTH SEWING

Although your sewing machine is designed for maximum efficiency, should an of the tollowing

difficulties occur they can be remedied with minor adjustments.

Upper Thread Breaks.Be sure needle is inserted properly. Check on the correct way to thread machine.

Use correct needle size for thread. Do not have upper tension too tight.

Lower Thread Breaks.Check correct method ol threading bobbin case. Be sure lower tension is not too tight.

Needie Breaks.Do not tug or pull on the fabric while sewing as this will bend and eventually break the

needle.

Skipped Stitches.Do not use a blunt or bent needle. Insert needle correctly.

Use correct needle size for thread.

Be sure pressure on foot is sufficient when sewing heavy fabrics.

Stitches Loop.Make sure tensions are properly balanced and that machine is threaded correct1v

Machine Binds.Clean thread, dust and lint from hook, shuttle and race.

if condition continues, it may be that the machine is gummy with oil.

Apply kerosene to oil holes, run rapidly for a while, and wipe dry.

Then lubricate again with fine sewing machine oil.

— 24 —

OILING AND CLEANING

Before starting to oil the upper part of the machine, turn hand

wheel until take-up is at its lowest point. Apply a drop of oil

to points indicated by arrows in Figt. S and 40.

To reach the areas re

cuiring oil on the under

side of the machine Fig.

39 tilt the head back

on its hinges.

How frequently the ma

chine is used determines

the oiling requirenwnts.

Moderate use calls for

only an occasional oiling.

After applying the oil,

run the machine at high

speed so that all parts

will he penetrated by the

OIL/

OIL

oil.

Fig. 39

— 25 —