Reeds, eels and wildfowl

When the trading wherries were in their heyday, local people relied heavily on the rich natural bounty of thewaters, low-lying marshes, farmland and woodland of the Yare valley – clay from the ground to make tiles and bricks, reed from the marshes for export to towns andcities to be used for thatch and building material; wildfowl,fish and eels for the table.

The Broadsman’s life is full of pleasant variety,even as the ever-changingpicture gallery which theseasons offer.

Colourful characters

Billy BluelightIn the 1920s/30s Billy Bluelightused to challenge boat trippers to races along the river bank from Norwich towards GreatYarmouth. He was famed for his claim...

My name is Billy Bluelight, my

age is 45, I hope to get to Carrow

Bridge before the boat arrive.

Ted EllisCelebrated author and naturalist, Ted Ellis, lived and worked for much of his life near Surlingham in the Yare valley. He did much tochampion the cause of nature conservation on the Broads and,with his wife Phyllis, established a nature reserve at Wheatfen Broad where they lived in a simplecottage from 1946 onwards.

Old ScientificFor much of his life Old Scientific lived aboard a houseboat onRockland Broad. He was famed locally for his wildfowling skills. When the author P.H. Emerson met him during an adventure in the Broads he had just shot twoospreys, one with a three-pound pike still in its talons.

Authur Patterson (John Knowlittle)In spite of his humble beginnings, Authur Pattersonset out to excel as a naturalistand writer and Breydon waswhere it all began. A lifetimescribbler, often under the pen-name ‘John Knowlittle’,Arthur became an authority on the wildlife of Breydon and the Broads.

Whitlingham

Rocky resources Chalk, quarried from pits near Whitlingham, was loaded

on to wherries and transported to the cement works at Burgh

Castle, near Great Yarmouth. Whitlingham

was also famed for its ‘brickfields’,

reckoned to supply the

finest brick and tile

earths (clays) in Norfolk.

Look out for…◆ easy access trail around the Great Broad.

◆ walks and cycle routes through woods

and meadows on the edge of the

River Yare.

◆ former chalk pits and beautifully

preserved limekiln in the woods.

Surlingham

Cold commoditiesIn the long cold winters of a hundred or so years ago the

River Yare often froze over for weeks at a time. Enterprising

wherrymen harvested the ice, supplying it to businesses, such

as the fish markets at Great Yarmouth. It was stored year-round

in ice houses like the one that used to be on Surlingham Broad.

Look out for…

◆ Surlingham Church Marsh

– this site is a year round

bird watching treat,

complete with circular

walk and bird hide.

◆ hill top views of the

Yare Valley from St

Saviour’s Church.

◆ otters, elusive and shy,

may be seen in early

morning or at dusk.

Rockland St Mary

Half an hour’s strolling brought me to Rockland village,

an isolated hamlet with a small staithe at which the wherries

moor, and a narrow channel connecting it with the Broad.

With its swampy osier grounds, yellow reed stacks, and

thatched cottages, it is a typical Broadland hamlet, and the

majority of its few inhabitants are more or less dependent

on the Broad for a livelihood.

W.A.Dutt, 1903 – well-to-do Norfolk-born author and naturalist

Look out for…

◆ a rare glimpse of an osprey in spring or autumn, a surprise

sighting of a hen harrier in winter, marsh harriers, and

several species of owl, including the ghostly barn owl.

◆ Cetti’s warbler – listen for its ‘explosive’ call, a speciality

of the Yare Valley.

◆ colourful dragonflies and butterflies, many of them rare,

darting among the reeds on a summer day.

◆ The Slaughters – at low tide on Rockland Broad witness the

skeletal remains of a dozen or so long-discarded wherries.

◆ easy access path from the car park to the RSPB bird hide

(approx 800m).

Loddon and Chedgrave

Ancient market towns at the heart of the Wherryman’s Way

and an ideal place to break your journey. In the 19th century

there was a different trade associated with almost every

address in the street – even cars were once built here.

Look out for…

◆ former wherry staithe and nearby mill.

◆ two fine churches.

◆ bustling streets and town square with a variety

of pubs and shops.

Langley Dyke

Look out for…

◆ the ruins of a Benedictine abbey (private) near

the end of the dyke.

◆ Cantley sugar beet factory towering on the horizon

like a silent, motionless ship.

Hardley Cross

The point at which the River Chet branches off the River Yare

is also the ancient boundary of jurisdiction between the City

of Norwich and the Borough of Great Yarmouth. For hundreds

of years officials met here in a colourful annual ceremony,

known as the ‘Hardley Inquest’, to declare all the ‘abuses

and privileges’ related to matters of trade on the Yare.

Hardley Flood (River Chet)

Look out for…

◆ a wild and remote wildlife paradise that changes

with every season.

◆ the excited springtime twittering of reed and sedge

warblers and the alarming squeal of the rare and

timid water rail.

Great Yarmouth

Pushing with lowered mast through the gloomy and austere

bridges, we passed a picturesque corner of Old Yarmouth,

lighted up by the morning sunshine – discovering groups of

fishermen clad in blue guernseys, all smoking clay pipes as they

watched the sailing craft go through this narrow neck of water

that joins the Broads and Breydon Water.

P.H. Emerson, 1886

Look out for…

◆ the South Quay with its historic merchants’ houses and

Rows – the remnants of tightly-packed herring workers’

houses and narrow streets.

◆ Time and Tide Museum – housed in a converted Victorian

herring curing works, this innovative museum takes you on

an exciting journey into Great Yarmouth’s maritime past.

Berney Arms

Look out for…

◆ the tallest wind pump in the country, used to pump

water from the marshes and to grind cement clinker

for the nearby Reedham Cement Works.

Halvergate Marshes

Look out for…

◆ wide open vistas, big skies

and distant horizons.

◆ wind pumps, built to control

water levels on the traditional

grazing marshes.

◆ the lucky sighting of a grass

snake swimming through

the dykes in the summer.

◆ wading birds such as

snipe and curlew.

Reedham

Caulk and clinkerDuring the 19th century and

early 20th century Reedham

boasted one of the best boat

building yards in Norfolk. In

fact most Reedham men were

connected in some way or

other with boats – either

as carpenters, wherrymen,

owners, skippers or mates.

Look out for…

◆ a bustling quayside and boat hire location.

◆ bearded reedlings flitting among swaying reeds.

A significant proportion of the entire UK population

of this bird is in the Yare valley.

◆ the fierce currents of a turning tide, whose influence

can easily be seen (and felt if you’re a boater) at this point.

◆ the historic swing bridge that carries the railway over the river.

◆ nearby, the only remaining chain ferry in the Broads.

Coldham Hall

Tavern yarns and smugglers’ talesHard times sometimes

called for desperate

measures, and wherrymen

were not averse to a bit of

smuggling. A wherryman

and Coldham Hall landlord

were sentenced to

transportation for fourteen

years for the theft of nine

gallons of port wine from

the hold of a wherry.

Look out for…

◆ nearby marshes ablaze with yellow flag irises

in May and June.

◆ a bustling waterside pub just across the river from

Brundall – one of the busiest boating towns on the Broads.

◆ nearby Wheatfen, Ted Ellis Nature Reserve – open fen,

reed-beds, alder and willow woodlands with two small

broads and over three miles of nature trail, some parts

suitable for wheelchair users.

T.F. Goodall, 1886 – author and member of the naturalist school of painters

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Breydon Water

Smelters and wildfowlersAt the time of the wherries, Breydon was a favourite haunt

of wildfowlers and fishermen. Smelts, a type of fish, were

particularly prised by the locals.

The setting sun gleams like burnished gold on the glass

windows of our houseboat lying anchored in one of the

opalescent streams that thread this moist fairyland of

green sea weed and pinkish mud… the channel winding

through forests of shipping and quays bordering the sea

stained town that rises from a tongue of sand stretching

between the river and the ocean. T.F.Goodall, 1886

Look out for…

◆ a paradise for wildfowl – Breydon is an internationally

important estuary for a huge number and variety of geese,

ducks and wading birds.

◆ Burgh Castle – the impressive remains of a 3rd century

Roman fort situated on the edge of the River Waveney

with views over Breydon Water and Halvergate Marshes.

Open: daily.

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Bramerton

Pleasure steamers, strolls and fancy cakesThe Woods End gardens at Bramerton were a

popular destination for fashionable boat trippers from

Norwich. The swings, skittles, aviary and monkey house,

hillside strolls and riverside picnicking were all the rage.

Look out for…

◆ kingfishers darting inches above the water.

◆ dragonflies flitting to and fro over the marshes

on a sunny summer day.

◆ lapwings calling with their ‘peewit’

cry on a misty winter marsh.

◆ autumn colours along

the low wooded hills.

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KEYWherryman’s Way

Interpretation point

Site of historic interest

Wind pumps and mills

Nature reserve

Wherry graveyard

Old ferry points

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Walk on the wild side

The Wherryman’s Way is in The Broads – Britain’s largestprotected wetland. The route passes through many naturereserves and Sites of Special Scientific Interest, a reflectionof the rich wildlife diversity of the Yare Valley. Whether you’re fortunate enough to see the rare and unusual, or experience the adundant and colourful, you will not be disappointed. Just as the first ‘tourists’ to the area in the 19th century discovered a remote and wild place, soyou too can still find timeless, hidden places even today.

The tranquillity

and placidity of the landscape was

marvellous – you mighthave heard a pin drop. The

landscape seemed asleep, savewhere the smoke from the burning

brick kiln floated lazily through the air shadowingan angler trudging home in the yellow splendour of the sinking sun.

Getting around

Most towns and villages and many of the places featuredin this guide can be reached by public transport, so whynot leave the car behind and explore the Broads by other means? For more information about all the thingsthat you can see and do by public transport contact the Broads Authority.

Train: Stations are located at: Norwich, Brundall,Buckenham, Cantley, Reedham, Berney Arms, Great Yarmouth. Tel. National Rail Enquiries 08457 484950 for information.

Bus: Traveline Tel. 0870 6082608 for information.

Cycle: There are miles of quiet country lanes and tracks to explore in this largely undiscovered part of Norfolk.Cycles can be hired from Whitlingham Country Park –Outdoor Education Programme Tel. 01603 632307.

River bus: Why not do part of your journey by river and walk back? It stops at Whitlingham Park and Coldham Hall on a scheduled route.

Boat: There are free 24 hour moorings along the route and many pubs have customer moorings. Why not mix boot with boat to get a view of the Wherryman’s Way from water and land? The RSPB, City Boats and other organisations run occasional boat trips and tours along the Yare Valley Tel. 01603 610734 for more details.

Places to stay

For those wanting to do the whole route, accommodationalong the way will be necessary. There is a campsite atReedham Ferry and there are many small, independentB&Bs along the route to offer you a wonderful base for exploring the area. For more information visit www.wherrymansway.net

Want to experience a wherry?

The trading wherry, Albion, can be chartered from Ludham. Contact Norfolk Wherry Trust Tel. 01493 740140. Another trading wherry, Maud, has recently been restored. Olive, Norada and Hathor (two wherry yachts and a pleasure wherry)

can be chartered for cruises from Wroxham. Contact Wherry Yacht Charter Charitable Trust Tel. 01508 530793. White Moth, another wherry yacht, can be chartered from the Norfolk Broads Yachting Company Tel. 01692 631330.

Every summer the Broads Authority charters some of the remaining wherriesand offers a series of short sailing trips during August. For details of how to enjoy this unique experience of sailing in Edwardian style and comfort, contact the Broads Authority.

Wherries and wherrymen

Wherries have been part of life in the Broads for hun-dreds of years. Before roads and railways, waterwayswere the main transport routes for trade and people.River trade – the ability to bring in raw materials andexport finished goods – helped make NorwichEngland’s second city.

The earliest wherry-type vessel was the square-riggedkeel, but by the beginning of the 19th century the most numerous craft was the wherry – single-sailed and specially designed for the shallow waterways of the Broads.

The heyday of the trading wherries was the 19th century when several hundred sailed the waterways, carrying all sorts of cargoes – stone, coal, bricks, timber, reeds, even ice.

Both the skipper and his craft told their ownstory. It was one of long days and nights sailing inopen and narrow waters; of innumerable loadings and unloadings at the crowded Norwich andYarmouth quays; of a life lived in a perpetual round of weighing anchor and hoisting sail.

Circular walks

A number of circular walks start from villages along or adjacent to the Wherryman’s Way. Look out for the parish walk boards. Many of these are easily picked up from 24 hour moorings, so boaters can also enjoy a stroll in this lovely river valley. Visit www.wherrymansway.net or ring Norfolk County Council on (01603) 222774 for more details.

Easy access opportunities

Paths suitable for wheelchair users and pushchairs can be found at Whitlingham, Rockland St Mary Staithe and in 2006 at Chedgrave Common – see the map and website for more details.

Want to know more?

Maps and guides: The OS Map (Explorer OL40 –

The Broads) is a useful companion for the long-distance

route or circular routes.

Check out the Broadcaster visitor newspaper and

the Broads mini-guide (both produced by the Broads

Authority) for a comprehensive guide to events and

activities on the Yare and Chet.

Information Centres:Norwich Tourist Information Centre Tel. 01603 727927

Great Yarmouth Tourist Information Centre Tel. 01493 842195

Broads Authority Tel. 01603 610734

Websites:Check out www.wherrymansway.net for more.

” P.H. Emerson, 1893 – a well travelled, pioneering photographer and author Anna Bowman Dodd, 1896 – an upper class London

lady holidaying aboard a pleasure wherry in the Broads

Return of a native Today it’s happy hunting for the marsh harrier thanks to enlightened conservation policies that have reversed years of damage done by persecution, poor land management and over use of pesticides.

Saved from the plough

A landmark in modern conservation, Halvergate Marsheswere designated as the first Environmentally Sensitive Area (ESA). Here farmers are encouraged to managethese traditional grazing marshes sympathetically, withoutthe use of modern chemicals and deep drainage. One ofthe voices calling for the protection of the marshes wasAndrew Lees, who later went on to become campaignsdirector of Friends of the Earth.

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Wherryman’s WayThe Wherryman’s Way is in the Broads

– Britain’s largest protected wetland.

This 35-mile recreational route follows the

course of the River Yare between Norwich

and Great Yarmouth and takes its name

from the wherry – a large cargo-carrying

barge whose elegant black sails were a

once common sight on these waters.

You can walk the whole route or explore parts of it by cycle, train and river bus. Alternatively you can explore one of the ten circular village walks en route.See www.wherrymansway.net for more.

The Yare Valley is subject to intermittent flooding during the winter months. Paths can be muddy at these times.Sturdy footwear is imperative all year round.

Flood alleviation work will affect the footpaths along the River Chet in 2005/06. Diversions will be clearlysigned on the ground and riverside paths will be reopened as soon as is possible.

Tread lightly

The Broads is a vulnerable wetland area – please respect the special nature of these habitats. Stay on waymarked paths and take litter home. Traditional grazing of cows and sheep still takes place on the marshes. Please keep dogs on a lead and shut gates.

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Dykes and staithes

The River Yare was an important trading route, linkingNorwich with the port of Great Yarmouth and the widerworld beyond. Most towns and villages had dykes connecting them to the river, and a ‘staithe’ – a placewhere wherries moored to load and unload goods.

Road and rail transport eventually took over from wherries,particularly after the 1914-18 war, when they were left todo the rougher jobs like dredging and carrying reed.

By the mid-20th century there were no sailing wherries regularly trading on the Broads

Bringing the past back to life

Along the Wherryman’s Way route you will discover a number of sculptures, characters, information panels and audio points telling tales of times gone by – timeswhen wherries and wherrymen plied the waterways. Chat with a wherryman, listen to Billy Bluelight telling you about his exploits racing steamboats, find out what’s so special about Rockland Broad and see the boat builder at work alongside the quay at Reedham. S

24hr Mooring

Easy Access Path

Bike/Canoe Hire

Pub

Tearoom

Shops

Circular Walk

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Yare Valley Cycle Route

Wherryman’s Way

This leaflet was part funded by the EU LEADER PLUS initiative in partnership with the following:

Wherries Olive, Hathor and Norada pictures courtesy of The Broads Authority

Designed by Imagemakers. Tel. 01837 840717 www.imagemakers.uk.com

Norwich Train Station

GreatYarmouth Train Station

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