what’s behind the best before date?

rich cedarwood oil from North African mountain ranges

jojoba oil: nature’sskincare solution

spring edition 2012

springspring edition 2012

this issue

04 Harvest: Cedarwood Atlas oil Morocco’s finest.

12 SME Forum: Guide to understanding shelf life

What to expect from your ingredients.

16 Up Close: Jojoba oil An ideal ingredient for natural skincare products.

20 News: Natural Vitamin E 50 New product release.

22 Product Specification: Cedarwood Atlas oil – Certified Organic

Specification for manufacturers.

23 Formulation: Men’s Aftershave Lotion

Featuring Cedarwood Atlas oil – Certified Organic.

spring cover:immortelleHelichrysum italicumCertified Organic Immortelle essential oil has a warm, herbaceous aroma that blends well with citrus and floral notes. It has wonderful rejuvenating properties that make it ideal for anti-ageing formulations. Available in Certified Organic. Visit www.seoc.com.au for more information

Technology is continuously evolving. So, to remain fresh, current and engaging we are always looking for new and exciting ways to utilise recent advancements to enhance your customer experience with us. With that in mind, in this issue of Oily you will see that we have introduced Quick Response (QR) codes. These small barcodes can be scanned, using a QR reader application on your Smartphone or Tablet, enabling you to access detailed online information on the particular product. For example, the QR code for Cedarwood Atlas will take you to a web page featuring some great essential oil blend ideas and extra behind the scenes information on this amazing oil. I hope you enjoy this added feature along with the other topical articles in this season’s issue.

Lucille Wilson, editor

4 5

A sweet balsamic note and long lasting aroma makes the rich woody oil a popular choice for aromatherapy and natural cosmetics.

Warm and Tender, Cedarwood Atlas

harvest

As the Cedarwood trees age the bark becomes fissured and a thin layer of lichen grows, giving the forest a haunting appearance.

6

harvest

7

High in the mountains of Morocco, plantations of Cedarwood trees tower above the ground and grow for many years before they are processed to produce the warm essential oil we know and love.

Forest OriginsCedrus atlantica is native to the Atlas Mountain ranges that span from south western Morocco through Algeria and into eastern Tunisia. Forests of cedar span many mountain-sides throughout the tip of the African continent between 1000 and 2000 metres above sea level. The evergreen trees grow to approximately 40 metres in height and develop a solid trunk up to 2 metres in diameter.

Silvery green leaves sprout from strong branches and spiral out to form a lush covering. Both male and female cones appear towards the end of summer and in the natural environment the male cones release pollen in order to pollinate the females. Maturation of the female cone takes up to 2 years and eventually the cone splits, releasing winged seeds that spread out from the parent tree.

Cedarwood Atlas PlantationsThe plantation and development of Cedarwood Atlas trees is controlled by the Moroccon state. The primary industry for plantation trees is the manufacture of furniture or hand carved art work. Morocco is famous for its marquetry and other traditional handicrafts that feature the straight fine grain of cedarwood and government regulation of wood production ensures longevity of these industries.

The government manages all stages of the cultivation process. It oversees the initial tree planting by the local population and employs a regional labour force to maintain and continually regenerate the forests to sustain ongoing harvests.

Cedarwood trees take 20 years to reach maturity and grow continuously throughout this time before they are logged and distributed to the furniture or carving industries. >

Clockwise from bottom left: Cedarwood Atlas trees grow to a towering 40 metres in height.Plantations are maintained by the local inhabitants of the mountain regions. They care for the trees and manage the regeneration program to ensure longevity of the industry. Wood chips left over from furniture fabrication are collected and used for extracting the warm essential oil.

Wood collection is carried out either with machinery or by hand if the location of the plantation is too remote or difficult for machine access. This collection process is carried out for most of the year except during the coldest winter months when weather conditions make it too difficult to work.

Tree selection for harvesting is undertaken by the local residents who are most familiar with the forest and are skilled in determining wood quality. Once collected, the government assigns the allocation to be distributed to the various industries and the wood is circulated across the country accordingly.

Cedarwood Atlas Oil ProductionSydney Essential Oil Co.’s supply partner in Morocco produces both Certified Organic and conventional Cedarwood Atlas essential oil. The company achieved NOP organic certification through EcoCert in 2010.

The amber coloured oil is extracted from by-product wood chips and sawdust. The manufacture of furniture and art work results in a large volume of wood chip waste. The chips are purchased directly from the furniture fabricators or the hand carvers from March to November and stored in preparation for essential oil extraction.

During the winter months, wood chips are not sold to essential oil producers but are kept for the local forest inhabitants to utilise as fuel for their home fires as temperatures can drop to as low as -5°C.

The warmly scented essential oil is extracted through a steam distillation method. Up to one tonne of wood chips and sawdust is combined in a large distillation unit and treated with steam vapour to extract the aromatic oil. It takes approximately 40 kilograms of wood material to produce 1 kilogram of essential oil.

Cedarwood Atlas Oil UsesCedarwood Atlas oil has been used for thousands of years. It is said to have been utilised by the Ancient Egyptians in their embalming >

8 9

harvest

above: Sawdust and wood waste is combined

in a steam distillation unit in order to produce

essential oil. The distillation vessel holds approximately

one tonne of wood material and can produce between 20-30 kilograms

of oil per production cycle. right: The yellow amber coloured oil is separated and processed through a florentine unit to remove

all water particles.

10 11

processes and featured as a key perfume ingredient. Today, the rich woody oil is popular in many different applications as it offers both wonderful aromatherapeutic properties as well as recognisable cosmetic benefits.

In perfumery, it imparts a deep base note that resonates well with many precious floral oils such as jasmine, rose or neroli. It appeals to both men and women, so is often included in unisex fragrances. It is an economical alternative to Sandalwood oil, thus making it a cost effective ingredient for essential oil blends.

Unlike other cedarwood varieties such as Virginian, that can have a slightly fresher, greener aroma, Cedarwood Atlas oil offers a resonating scent that grounds and balances a blend. It can also act as a fixative for other scent notes that might normally dissipate quickly.

Natural cosmetics benefit from the astringent properties of Cedarwood Atlas oil. It is ideal for use in creams or lotions for oily skin types and can be added to cleansers to help minimise blemishes and breakouts.

When incorporated in men’s aftershave products it helps reduce pore size and improves overall complexion by gently softening the skin. In haircare, cedarwood atlas is a great hair tonic and can help reduce the occurrence of conditions such as dandruff or other scalp irritations.

Cedarwood Atlas oil is also recognised for its ability to relieve stress, tension and other anxiety related ailments. It soothes and calms the nervous system and can intensify concentration and focus during meditation. When used in massage applications it can alleviate muscular aches and pains and can even help ease minor cold and flu symptoms.

Available in both Certified Organic and conventional, Cedarwood Atlas oil makes an excellent addition to your essential oil collection Why not try our oil today and feel the warmth of this rich aroma. 1

harvest

Cedarwood Atlas oil is a lovely addition to a soap formulation as it offers a deep, long-lasting aroma and has astringent properties that perfectly suit a cleansing bar.

1312

Expiry Date or Best BeforeThere can be a significant difference between the shelf life of products that actually ‘expire’ and are no longer suitable for use, and products that have a recommended ‘best before’ date. How and when an ingredient is utilised can dramatically impact end results of a finished product, so it is helpful to identify each component in your formulation and understand how its shelf life has been determined.

Ingredients that have specific expiry dates are commonly high level ‘active’ ingredients that deliver unique and exclusive properties to a cosmetic. For example, preservatives and vitamins have a defined purpose, with distinctive attributes, that will only be effective for a set period of time. The expiry date has been determined by the manufacturer, through scientific studies, and as such they should not be used after the date set by the original manufacturer without risk of failed efficacy.

Best before dates however, are a recommendation rather than an exact life span. Some dates are almost arbitrary, and allocated to a

sme forum

in natural cosmetics,

all ingredients work

synergistically to create

a new shelf life once the

chemical transformation

has occurred. For

accurate expiry dating

of your product it is

important to consider

challenge and stability

testing in your final

development stages.

shelf lifeunderstanding

yOUr gUiDE TO

All Sydney Essential Oil Co.’s products are allocated an appropriate shelf life and labelled with a best before date that will vary in length dependent on the particular type of product. in this article we look at what to expect from SEOC and how we manage our products to ensure you receive the best we have to offer.

1514

one time we can hold between one and three batches of an item, dependent of the production cycle and our business forecast. Some essential oil and carrier oil products have multiple harvests throughout the year and therefore are purchased more frequently to maintain seasonality.

Other products have limited annual production runs, so are more challenging to guarantee continuous stock hold or maximum shelf life. A product that is subject to this tenuous availability is Rose oil. In Bulgaria, Rose oil is produced during a few short weeks in May and June. This means the fresh season stock only becomes available for a limited time in July and August. By the time the next year’s harvest is ready to commence, any oil still available within the market place will be close to a year old and therefore a year into its shelf life.

Acceptable Shelf Life PeriodsUnderstanding the market and product availability has provided SEOC with the ability to set acceptable shelf life parameters for all of our products. We adhere to these dates as best as the industry allows, however, at times this can cause out-of-stock situations when we know the stock on-hand has a short shelf life.Rather than supply our customers with products that need to be used quickly to ensure efficacy, we will remove the stock from sale or discount the remaining product for sale by mutual concession. Internally, we are continuously monitoring our products stock cycles and adhering to our expiry date management systems to minimise the occurrences of short shelf life. We are confident in the oils and other ingredients we supply and are regularly confirming similar practices from our suppliers.

If you have any questions about our shelf life expectations then please contact our sales team directly at sales@seoc.com.au or phone 02 9565 2828. Alternatively you can always confirm the best before date of our current stock prior to purchase. 1

product that can often be suitable for use well into the future if stored in optimal conditions. Items that fall into this category are clays, salts and even some essential oils. In fact, many essential oils deepen in aroma intensity and mature with age rather than degrade. Oils such as sandalwood, cedarwood and patchouli are commonly acknowledged as having this trait and many aromatherapists agree that these oils simply continue to improve over time. >

Not all essential oils can boast this characteristic and it must be noted that other oils, in particular mandarin and tangerine, significantly decrease in potency as they age. Colour loss or change is one of the first notable signs of aging, followed by slowly diminishing aroma and energy. A freshly produced batch of mandarin oil can offer a bright orange colour along with a lively vibrant scent but as this batch ages the colour loses intensity and the aroma subsides. This can be important for manufacturers who rely upon consistency to maintain the standard of finished goods. At Sydney Essential Oil Co. we adhere to regular stock cycling in order to maximise freshness in our batches and provide customers with the longest best before dates possible.

Expiry Date Management ProcessFrom essential oils and carrier oils to preservatives, vitamins and other cosmetic actives, each item is allocated a specific best before date when accepted into inventory through our quality control team and this date is recorded against the unique batch details.

The strength of our goods inwards quality process is the first feature that has a direct influence over our expiry date management system. If a product is received from our suppliers with an expiry date that is short dated or not within our acceptable shelf life guidelines, the goods are rejected and never make it to saleable inventory. Our warehousing and batch control procedures employ a first in first out principle, where stock is allocated for sale as per the received date of the product. At any

sme forum

1616 17

jojobaup CLose

NATUrE’S SkiNCArE SOLUTiON

Centuries ago Native Americans used jojoba oil in traditional remedies to heal burns, cuts and other aggravated skin conditions. It has a long history in skincare and is one of the most popular ingredients for natural cosmetic brands.

Today, Simmondsia chinesis is grown in the desert regions of many countries, from North and South America, to Australia and the Middle East. The industry continues to grow but has seen some challenges over the last twelve months with demand severely outstripping supply. Climatic anomalies led to a dramatic drop in production and caused a worldwide shortage of the oil for a significant period during 2011 and 2012.

New season stock is now becoming available in the world market but pricing is still impacted by the shortage and some suppliers are being conservative with stock allocations in order to effectively manage the expected influx of sales. Thankfully the wait is now over and Sydney Essential Oil Co. is fortunate to be carrying considerable stock holds. >

global popularity of jojoba oil continues to increase and is it any wonder when it’s just so good for the skin?

precious jojoba oil is actually a liquid wax. It is highly stable and is naturally resistant to oxidation. It is an ideal choice for 3% essential oil blends and is a common base for natural perfume products.

18

Grown in the country for over forty years, Israel jojoba has become a popular product around the world. It has a bright yellow colour and mild aroma that is undistinguishable in finished cosmetic products.

Jojoba oil benefitsAt the molecular level jojoba oil is very similar to human sebum, making it ideal for use in moisturising applications. It is easily absorbed and penetrates deep within the epidermal layer resulting in a soft and supple complexion. It can assist with many common skin complaints such as acne or blemishes, chapped or dry skin from winter weather and can even help reduce the appearance of stretch marks or scars.

It is highly recognised for its anti-ageing benefits and is commonly employed to smooth fine lines and wrinkles. It is perfect for delicate skin areas around the eyes or lips and is a great addition to serums, balms or face oil formulations.

In massage applications jojoba oil leaves the skin feeling rich and luxurious. It is noted for its anti-inflammatory action and can assist in alleviating muscular aches and pains. In some cases, therapists will even use jojoba oil to ease joint pain from arthritis and when combined with essential oils it provides an excellent therapeutic delivery method.

Jojoba oil can also be effectively used in haircare products as it can assist with minimising dandruff and improving overall scalp condition. In baby skincare formulations jojoba can also help reduce the effects of nappy rash and other irritations whilst its hypoallergenic properties benefit the most sensitive skin areas.

If you are new to formulating with jojoba oil or you are looking for some extra product ideas, please visit the resources section on our website seoc.com.au. We offer a range of formulations which are easy to follow and can be modified to suit your preference. 1

Jojoba oil VarietiesEach jojoba oil we offer varies slightly and is suitable for different applications. Choosing the oil that suits your requirements will ensure your formulation is successful.

Jojoba oil – Certified OrganicSourced from plantations in Peru and Argentina cold pressed Certified Organic jojoba oil has a deep yellow colour and retains a mild agreeable aroma. It is an excellent ingredient in certified organic formulations for creams, lotions or body butters and is also suited to balms or serum products. Certified Organic through ACO and USDA ensures it is a viable inclusion for many certification levels.

Jojoba oil – VirginVirgin oil is produced in Australia and is highly rich in nutrients. It has a deep golden colour and a typical nutty aroma. It is an unrefined product so the only processes undertaken are cold press extraction followed by filtration through a three micron filter to remove any impurities. This oil is very popular with natural therapy practitioners as it remains closest to its natural state and offers a luxurious texture to massage oils or other cosmetic health products.

Jojoba oil – LiteOur new lite jojoba oil is refined and has little to no odour or colour. It is produced in South America and has excellent batch consistency. After cold press extraction it is processed through clay filtration and the resulting oil is clear and delightfully easy to use. It is perfect for formulators keen to have the benefits of jojoba without the colour variation.

Jojoba oil – golden israelGolden Israel oil is another new addition to our jojoba portfolio and provides users with an alternate to the Australian Virgin oil.

up CLose

2020

neWs

Over the last few months, Sydney Essential

Oil Co. has been unable to offer our

original Natural Vitamin E product. But we

are happy to announce we have sourced a

high quality replacement product that is

supported by a long standing international

supplier.

Why We Love vitamin e

Vitamin E is an important ingredient in

natural cosmetic formulations as it

provides two distinct functions. On one

side it protects the oil components of the

formulation from rancidity by guarding

against oxidation. This is particularly

important to the shelf life of items such as

balms, serums, face or body oils and even

creams, lotions and body butters.

The second function Vitamin E performs

relates to cosmetic benefits for the skin. It

offers wonderful anti-ageing properties

and is a popular ingredient in many

products for all skin types. For mature skin

it helps smooth fine lines and wrinkles, for

youthful skin it protects and maintains a

supple complexion. It is even helpful in

baby products as it can soothe the red

rawness of nappy rash or other minor

irritations.

features of our

neW naturaL vitamin e 50

SEOC’s new Natural Vitamin E 50;

• is a natural tocopherol with a minimum

ratio of 50% in a sunflower oil base

• is non-GMO (genetically modified

organisms)

• is a thick viscous, amber brown

coloured liquid

• has a mild oil aroma that is

undetectable in finished product.

When utilising it within a cosmetic

formulation the recommended usage is

between 2% to 5%, however this can be

increased if necessary. It is added to your

product in the active phase and best

incorporated at temperatures below 50°C. It

blends easily with other oil based ingredients

and evenly disperses during manufacturing.

With a sunflower oil base, the vitamin is

safe if it comes in direct contact with the

skin. It is manufactured with a significant

shelf life and is best stored in airtight

packaging in a cool, dry environment.

For more information on pack sizes and

pricing please contact sales@seoc.com.au

or call our customer service team on

02 9565 2828. 1

Strong supply source, easy to use and available now!

New Anti-oxidant – Natural Vitamin E 50

protection of your natural cosmetic product is paramount. Ensure its safety

and shelf life by incorporating Natural Vitamin E 50 in your formulation.

product Cedarwood atlas oil – Certified organic

Botanical Name: Cedrus atlantica

Origin: Morocco

Appearance: Clear mobile liquid

Colour: Yellow to amber

Odour: Characteristic, woody

Plant part used: Trunk and branches

Extraction method: Steam distilled

physio-chemical properties

Specific Gravity @ 20ºC: 0.9100 – 0.9590

Refractive Index @ 20ºC: 1.5000 – 1.5200

Optical rotation: +50.00º to +91.00º

Flash Point: greater than 65ºC in closed cup

oil Components typical analysis

a-himachalene 8 – 25

g-himachalene 5 – 20

b-himachalene min 20

other informationpackaging: as required.storage: store in tightly sealed containers in a cool, dry place without direct sunlight or heat.handling: well ventilated area and avoid open flame or other sources of ignition.shelf Life: three (3) years from date of manufacture (when stored in appropriate conditions).

for more information, contact sydney essential oil Co. +61 2 9565 2828.

produCt speCifiCation formuLation

Men’s Aftershave Lotionperformance: light-weight, easily absorbed, moisturises and maintains skin tone.appearance: pale coloured cream, soft and light consistency.aroma: warm, woody scent with fresh citrus and grass notes.stability: expected shelf life 12 months subject to manufacturing practice.recommended use: regular application after shaving to improve complexion.

method of manufacture1. Heat Phase A to 70°C maximum.2. Combine ingredients in Phase B and heat to 70°C maximum.3. Add Phase B to Phase A and emulsify for 5 minutes. Continue stirring. 4. When emulsion has cooled to 40°C, add Phase C and emulsify for 1-3 minutes.5. Add all ingredients from Phase D while stirring constantly. Emulsify for 1-3 minutes.6. When cool, pour off.

for ingredients, contact sydney essential oil Co. +61 2 9565 2828.

disclaimer Product formulations are included as illustrative examples only. Whilst all care has been taken

in presenting example formulations, Sydney Essential Oil Co. accepts no responsibility concerning any

product manufactured using such formulations. The responsibility for the performance for marketing claim

and adequate testing for stability of any product prior to sale lies with the manufacturer thereof.

22 23

phase raw material % w/w

A Bergamot infused water 76.2

Potassium Sorbate 0.05

B Emulsifying wax 3.9

Macadamia Virgin oil 4

Hazelnut oil 3

C Vitamin E 50 1

Cedarwood Atlas essential oil

– certified organic 0.436

Bergamot (Bergaptene-free) essential oil 0.26

Sandalwood Australian essential oil 0.217

Gingergrass oil 0.087

D Aloe Vera gel – certified organic 6

Cucumber extract – certified organic 2

Witch hazel extract – certified organic 2

Phenoxyethanol 0.85

100% w/w

Sydney Essential Oil Co Pty Ltd ABN 95 096 439 299

11 Burrows Road South, St Peters NSW 2044 Australia

PO Box 226 St Peters NSW 2044

T: + 61 2 9565 2828 F: + 61 2 9519 8009 E: sales@seoc.com.au

Order on-line www.seoc.com.au

Office hours: 9am-5pm Monday to Friday

© Copyright 2012 Sydney Essential Oil Co. Pty Ltd. All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or

transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopy,

recording or otherwise, without prior written permission of the publisher.

Contact marketing@seoc.com.au with any requests.

Oily is printed responsibly by our Forest Stewardship Council® Chain-of-Custody

certified printers. They use vegetable-based inks on Elemental Chlorine Free (ECF)

pulp paper sourced from sustainable forests. Oily is also available to view

on-line. If you’d prefer to opt-out of receiving a print copy, please let us know.