Soling 1 Meter Suggested Basic Building Procedure 12/17 (changes from 5/17 in blue)

See also: “Electronics and Batteries”, and “Finishing your Soling One Meter”

For the past several years, WRMYC published a single Building Procedure. Recently, I decided that there was a need for TWO procedures- one simpler, using kit parts, no hard-to-find materials and only basic adhesives. And, a second for the more experienced competition-minded sailor or one who is building a second Soling. This procedure is the basic one. You will still get a strong, reliable Soling, but at lower cost and with less work involved.

Advanced techniques and parts, such as adjustable double-shroud rigs, blocks for the boom and digital servos, carbon fiber reinforcement, build to absolute minimum weight, etc. are all in the Advanced Building Procedure; for the builder who wants "the ultimate Soling" for competition. The boat built using the procedures in THIS document will come in at about $ 450, in the Advanced Procedure- about $ 650. See the WRMYC website for both versions.

The purpose of this document is to provide the first-time builder with ideas for building the basic Victor

Soling One Meter kit stronger, and building it more accurately than simply putting it together. There are

several ways to do each procedure, and we will recommend only the one we think is easiest, strongest, and

most cost-effective, based on our club’s experience as a club building (so far) 40 Soling One Meters over 8

years.

This document contains the process for building and rigging only- painting and electronics, and gear are covered separately.

How hard IS it to build a Soling?? Not hard, really, but time-consuming and at times frustrating, like any

model project. But the reward over buying a ready-built RC sailboat is significant: You understand your boat

inside and out. Plus, you get the enjoyment of model-building in the process.

Time-savers include: buying a prebuilt rudder and prebuilt keel from Victor, and (not) painting.

For this basic procedure we use the materials in the Kit but as little else as possible. We suggest that, if you are a first-time or casual builder, just follow this method.

Keels: Our recommendation: If given the difficulty of obtaining lead shot in certain areas, as well as the

mess and bother of pouring your own keel and rudder, if you are building your first Soling, save some grief

and buy a finished keel from Victor.

While building the boat, and going slowly with the kit pieces in your hands, this procedure will make perfect sense. Each time you read through the procedure it will become clearer and clearer. You WILL need a stand. Stands are usually two frames that cross, forming a

scissors-like stand (similar to the frame of a camp stool). Victor Model Products

Western Reserve Model Yacht Club

AMYA #255

3/17

has a simple stand kit (“Large Stand”) at about $45 or you can make a stand of your own design. You can use

½” PVC piping and fittings for your stand, or wood. Ropes or webbing are used to make a cradle between

the frames. Some install a strap across the bottom to support the keel- not a bad idea.

pic (c) Victor Model

Products

Needed:

H = hobby shop R = retail hardware O = online A = auto supply S = sporting goods

H Exacto Knife H Large thick rubber bands (used for

model planes)

R Paint, stain or varnish to finish the

spars; and for waterproofing

R Needlenose pliers H Velcro strips (12" length enough) R Measuring Tape- 6 ft. or longer,

R Large Channelock-type pliers for

wire crimping

R

Isopropyl alcohol (to use as a cleaner for epoxy.)

R 1 Quart Mineral Spirits

H

Thin, and Thickened CA, plus CA

DeBonder, CA Accelerator

A

Wet/Dry Sandpaper- 220, 600, 1000,

1500 and 2000 grit

H

Retail 30-minute Epoxy

5, 10, and 15-Minute Epoxies are not

waterproof!!

H Small brass angle- 1/8" per side H 3/8” square balsawood- 2' stick

H

1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" square basswood- 1 ea. 2' stick

A

Body Filler- Bondo type or Squadron waterproof

H

Saw- (Atlas model saw, or any small

saw for cutting wood). Miter box

helpful.

H

3/16 square balsa stick- 1 ea. 2' stick

H

Dremel or other motor tool and

Cutoff wheel; other rotary tool

accessories are also helpful.

R

3/8" chuck drill motor, plus 1/16”, 3/32”, 1/8”, 3/16”, 11/64”,

13/64”, 9/32” drill bits

Victor Large Boom Vang/

gooseneck

R

Liquid Nails Polyurethane

Construction Adhesive (Prod No. LN-950) About $6 Caulk Gun applicator

R

A hand file- standard 10 to 12" file.

R

For Alignment Jig

(1) level (2) c-clamps

(2) thin sticks/ skewers

(2) 1 X 3” boards- 4’ long

H

R

O

Screws and Hardware (not incl.

in Kit or in servo accessories)

Qty. 8- # 2 X 1/2" self-tapping

(GOOD hardware store or online

from : Albany County Fasteners*

www.albanycountyfasteners.com )

H Electronics: (middle of the build)

1- Sail Servo: HiTec HS-755 HB

1- Rudder Servo: HS-311 or 322 HD

1- On/Off Switch- w/ charge lead

H Electronics: (toward end of the

build)

1- Transmitter: Spektrum DX e OR

Spektrum DX-6

1- Receiver Spektrum AR-400

1- 5-cell, 6V NiMH rechargable

battery pack and suitable charger

Fig 1- Parts of the Soling 1 Meter

I. About adhesives:

A. Thin and Thickened CA- Hobby-grade CA at the hobby shop is higher quality than the

“instant glue” or “super glues” you buy at convenience or grocery stores. For wood-to-plastic and

wood-to-wood joints. Loctite, “Gorilla Glue” CA’s and private-label hobby shop CA's.

B. Plastic-to-plastic and hull to deck bonding: MEK (recommended by Victor) and "plastic

welders" like Testors Plastic Adhesive, ZAP, Plastruct Plastic Weld Cement, Tenax, etc. all contain

MEK. Victor traditionally has recommended using Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone (MEK) to “weld” styrene

plastic parts together. All these work well joining polystyrene to polystyrene (but do NOT work with

wood). BUT if used in excess- and especially in large areas like to bond the bulkheads- they

can warp and can cause distortion of the parts. MEK also has some health concerns. We

generally do not use MEK for these reasons.

You can actually use CA for bonding internal plastic parts, for bonding the bulkheads and transom in

place as well as in wood-to-plastic joining.

CA cautions: Cyanoacrylate adhesive was developed originally as a wound closer for battlefield

conditions. So, in and of itself, CA will not cause harm. But has its concerns, too. It creates heat as

it reacts. CA INSTANTLY BONDS SKIN TO SKIN. If/ when this happens, as soon as possible

gently "peel" your fingers apart. If this does not work, next use CA remover (or if you don't have CA

remover- lacquer thinner). Give it at least 30 seconds then try "peeling" again. In rare cases. you

might have to go to the emergency care facility. IF YOU GET CA IN YOUR EYES GET

EMERGENCY CARE IMMEDIATELY. CA ON your skin will come off within a few hours.

We recommend Liquid Nails Polyurethane Construction Adhesive for bonding the deck to hull.

This is a safer, strong adhesive, one-part, forgiving to use, a great sealer, and offers easy cleanup with

mineral spirits. It will not damage the plastic surfaces of the boat. You will also need a caulk gun

applicator for the 10 oz. tube.

Liquid Nails

Polyurethane

Construction

Adhesive (Prod No.

LN-950)

Similar product to 3M 5200.

Will bond “anything to anything”.

WRMYC Recommendation

They say for all applications indoors and out. In 14 oz. caulk gun size

tube only- will bond 3 – 4 boats. Tan in color- so plan to paint the

boat.

Cure- 8 – 12 hours

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Now on to the building: This procedure is for a standard, flanged deck vs. flangeless boat. At

each step- read the Victor Assembly Manual covering that portion, then read our procedure.

II. Mark the hull for length and keel position.

(Note: Use pencil. Ballpoint, markers, and felt-tips will eventually bleed through styrene plastic.)

A. Trial-fit the deck. Rubber-band the hull-deck assembly together and push the hull tight forward in the deck tight to the stem. It may help to heat the stem area of the deck and hull using a hair dryer, then push the hull into the deck to better shape it for a tighter fit.

B. Place the hull/ deck assembly upside down on a stand, with the stem firm against a wall. Using a measuring tape, along the outside bottom of the hull: with the deck on the hull, and level, 90 degrees to the wall-- NOT along the curve of the hull, mark the hull per the diagram:

1. With the deck still on the hull: - transfer your hull reference marks to the deck

flanges. - transfer the reference marks to the INSIDE of the hull and outside of the deck flange.

2. Marks to be made on the deck:

Measure and mark the mast location on top of the deck at 18" aft of the stem.

III. Centerlines- Locate and mark the centerlines of the boat and the interior bulkheads.

A. Hull Centerline: Mark a centerline on the inside of the HULL from just ahead of the keel spar cutout to the stern. This can be done several ways: one good method is to sharpen a standard wooden pencil, allow it to roll to the center bottom inside the hull- the point will be on center. Pencil a center point forward and another aft of the keel slot, then connect the two, and extend this line the length of the hull.

Fig 2

NOTE: the keel slot and/ or rudder hole are not always perfectly centered from Victor. Check!!

B. Deck Centerline: newer (approx. 2013 and later) Victor S1M Kits have a deck with centerline (faintly) molded in. Make centerline pencil marks at the aft end and for 3" forward of the hatch. On older decks, assume the "dimples" for the jib club and the sheet exits are centered, and use a straight edge to draw centerlines between these points.

C. Bulkhead Centerlines: Mark a vertical centerline on both bulkheads. Trace the outline of the two bulkheads on paper (place the bulkheads flange side down on the paper). Cut out the outlined paper shapes. Fold the papers in half, and then draw a line along the fold. Use this template to transfer the centerlines to both sides and inside the bulkheads.

The larger of the bulkheads is the forward one, and the smaller the aft.

bulkhead.

IV. CHECK!! Measure the components from the kit. Here are the measurements as they should be:

Mast length: should be 51"

Main Boom 15-1/4"

Jib Boom 14-1/4" or more (15" will hit the mast)

V. Bulkheads

TIP: Cutting plastic: The easy way to cut styrene- scribe it using a NEW Xacto or other razor knife. Scribe where you want

to cut, go over it a second time, then use a needle nose pliers to begin to “tear” it along the scribed line.

A. Cut a ¾” wide “notch” centered in the lower flange of the forward bulkhead- scribe and remove the notch.

B. Optional- open up the forward bulkhead for access. Using your Exacto, scribe a cut as far down as

just above the molded-reinforcer and across the upper part of the bulkhead. Sand the edges to eliminate

any snags that might catch the jibsheet or scratch your hand. See Fig. 4.

C. Cut out the "notch" in the center lower flange of the forward bulkhead. (Assembly Manual

Instruction "Forward Bulkhead Prep", Pg 5)

Fig 3

Fig 4

D. Drill two 3/16” limber holes (drain holes) - one on each side of the notch on the forward

bulkhead, each about 5/16” outside the notch, and drill one 3/16” center limber hole centered in the

aft bulkhead.

E. SAND: For better adhesion of the bulkheads to hull and deck. use 80 to 100-grit paper and sand:

1. The inside bulkhead location under the deck forward and aft.

2. The outside flanges of BOTH bulkheads, including the top flanges.

VI. Keel Trunk

A. Assemble the keel trunk, per the Victor

Assembly Manual Pg 4. Leave the top piece off the

trunk for now.

We recommend assembling one side of the keel

trunk with the keel spar laying in it for fit. Be

careful that you do not glue the spar to the trunk!!

Then, add the second side and CA in place.

B. After a few minutes- wipe any excess CA from the keel trunk using paper towel. MAKE SURE

there is no wet CA in the trunk!

C. Finally, use a belt or disc sander or a "Sanding Board"- piece of plywood with 60- 80 grit

sandpaper glued on it, to sand the edges of the trunk flat and square for a tight fit to the hull.

It is important that all edges are square!!

D. Measure and draw a vertical centerline on the forward edge and in the small vertical aft edge

of your assembled keel trunk.

E. Run thin CA along the seams of the keel trunk, inside and out.

F. Using wood stain, sealer, boiled linseed oil etc., or thin CA as recommended by Victor, waterproof

the keel trunk parts inside and out after you have glued the pieces together. Set the trunk aside on a poly

bag (so it doesn't bond to your work surface- ask me how I know.)

G. Check the hull keel slot: At this time, check your centerlines on the hull against the keel slot cut

by Victor. IF the keel slot is not centered, you can use your Dremel and a sanding stone, or a file to

open it up where needed. Everything in and around the keel spar will be sealed later, so don't worry

about how the part you opened up LOOKS.

H. Trial fit the forward Bulkhead- with the “open”- flanges side facing AFT. Test fit the keel trunk/

forward bulkhead assembly into the hull. Make sure the keel trunk fits tightly on the hull (over the keel

slot) and that the bulkhead is centered on the centerline of the hull.

Snap the deck to the hull, push (HARD) the hull forward into the stem of the deck and affix using

rubber bands.

Fig 5

1. Align the forward bulkhead on the centerline and with the top corners of the bulkhead (BOTH

sides- equal distance forward of your reference mark), at the 18" marks on the hull. Once located,

use clamps-spring clothespins will work -no glue) to pinch the bulkhead flange and hull, to

hold the bulkhead in place on the centerline and square to the line of the boat.

2. Sighting through the open transom, check that the forward Bulkhead is centered- and the “gap”

between the top of the bulkhead against the port and starboard deck is about the same. Make

adjustments to reposition the forward bulkhead so it is (a) square, (b) meets the deck evenly

across the top. Look through the hatch opening, and through the transom to verify that the

centerline of the forward bulkhead, and centerline on the hull, match. Draw pencil lines around

the forward bulkhead, showing its position in the hull.

NOTE- the AFT bulkhead will be positioned later.

VII. Align the keel, then install the Keel Trunk. Take your time on this!!!

Much has been on the Soling 1 Meter websites and available documents about alignment or building

jigs.

Building a jig will take hours of precision woodwork. True- you'll have it for future use- so if you are a

serious hobbyist who will likely build several Solings over the coming years, a good woodworker, and want to

build a jig, then by all means have at it. It WILL speed up the building but for one boat a building jig likely is

not worth the work.

Fig. 6

To get drawings and specs for a S1M Building Jig:

http://wikifoundryattachments.com/XKM4iEPOU2qhgUd7

hTpmA30538

The building jig will only build accurate boats, IF

the jig itself is accurate!!

WRMYC recommends the use of the simple jig as described below for most builders.

A. Make a “jig” to align the hull, keel and rudder.

i. Using two straight 1”X 3“ X 48” boards…

ii. Add rubber bands or clamps to clamp one board either side of two 1” vertical centering sticks (I use 2 bamboo cooking skewers) at the bow, and at the stern. These vertical sticks need to be small diameter (up to 3/16”) to allow the boards to join at the center.

iii. Place your jig between two stable surfaces- sawhorses, tables, or chairs.

You are going to level the boat in a “jig”, then position the keel and rudder fore and aft as well as

aligned vertically before tack-gluing the keel trunk in place. This will properly locate the keel 16” aft

of the stem, and the bulkhead accordingly.

B. (If you haven’t already) (using 80 grit paper) sand the forward and aft bulkhead flanges all around and the area it will mate to the hull.

C. (Saving your centerlines!) Sand the whole inside of the hull area from approximately the forward bulkhead to the former and around the rudder hole using 80 grit sandpaper.

D. Use the kit flat washer and wing nut to assemble the keel through the keel slot and keel trunk onto the hull. Just tight enough that the keel trunk will hold the keel in position without gluing as you twist and align the boat in the jig.

E. With the keel and trunk loose in place, and holding the hull in your hands, slide the keel forward and back until the upper front corner of the keel is at the hull 16” aft mark on the hull ahead of the keel slot. Gently lock the keel trunk in position using the wing nut and washer.

F. Place the keel and hull in the jig, with the keel clamped between the boards.

G. Tighten the clamps of the jig snug, holding the keel. Add the centering sticks.

H. Place a level across the hull about 18" aft of the stem then level the boat laterally (side to side) on your jig. Loosen the wing nut holding the keel, twist and adjust the boat side to side until the hull shows level in the jig, AND the centering sticks are on the hull centers at bow and stern.

Fig 6

I. With the wing nut loose, twist the keel and hull, lining up the hull on your centering sticks until the stem and the center of the aft end of the hull are centered.

i. The vertical forward stick of the jig should line up on centerline at the bow/stem.

ii. The vertical aft stick aligned on centerline at the transom.

iii. The keel trunk centerlines on the hull centerline.

iv. The forward Bulkhead centerline also on the hull centerline.

Everything likely will not align on the first try. You will find that repositioning the hull is

needed here, in order to get both all components to line up on the hull centerlines.

J. Once everything lines up, tighten the wing nut firmly, to lock the keel trunk in place. Visually and/or using a right angle check to see that the keel hangs vertically. Add a drop of Thick CA at each end of the trunk (so the CA doesn't run out the bottom and glue the keel in place!!!)

K. Following centerlines on all parts; install the forward bulkhead suing thin CA.

1. Recheck that the forward bulkhead is centered- place it on the lines you drew in VI (6) H 1&2 above- check that it is centered, and square in the hull. Then press the bulkhead to the keel trunk flush with the bottom of the bulkhead (fit inside the "notch"), AND with the centerlines all matching, press down on the keel trunk, and ADD ONE DROP thin CA on the two sides of the bulkhead about midway up the hull. Recheck that everything is square and aligned.

2. Once all is in place- press the bulkhead into place, and use thin CA to bond the bulkhead and keel trunk to the hull, a drop of CA at each of the port and starboard sheerlines- leave the top 1-1/2” and the bottom un-bonded to allow repositioning if needed. Fig. 8.

Using your stand, and perhaps a square or even a protractor, visually check again to see:

- that the keel is hanging vertically

- that the keel lines up with the centerline of the hull.

- that the forward bulkhead mates evenly to the deck and hull.

2. LOOK aft at the boat through the transom and the forward Bulkhead. You will be able to clearly see the “fit” of the forward bulkhead to the deck. The bulkhead should fit squarely- with small (1/16” or so) gaps at the top corners of the bulkhead. Remove the deck.

Fig 7

Fig 8

If everything is straight and aligned, mark the keel trunk for position. Remove the keel, then recheck that

the keel trunk has not moved relative to your marked lines. Finally use thin CA to lock the keel trunk and

the bulkhead in position.

What if the keel is still NOT aligned?

Sometimes the keel is still not aligned, despite your best efforts. Figure out which way the keel needs to twist in order to line up on centerline or to become perfectly vertical. File the edges of the keel spar (either forward or aft opposite edges) to get the keel aligned. Likewise, if the keel is not perfectly vertical, sand the top or bottom of the spar, or file the top inside of the trunk (where the spar enters the keel shell). If you have to make many of these adjustments, you should consider permanently affixing the keel (vs. leaving it as removable).

4. Flip the hull over, and use thick CA to fill in around the bottom of the keel trunk/ hull joint, spray w/

Accelerator to set. Run an added bead of thick CA along the port and starboard side joints of the trunk

and hull (ONLY); set using CA Accelerator.

VIII. Deck Reinforcement

A. The wood block reinforcers go under the upper flange of the bulkhead, under the chainplate locations (18-1/16" aft of the stem) per Victor Instructions, "Hull Assembly" page 6. Sand and shape the blocks to locate these as far “out” near the hull sheer as possible. Install wood block reinforcers from the Kit to the forward bulkhead, under the chainplates, using CA.

B. MARK the center of the wood block reinforcers in the forward bulkhead on the OUTside of the hull and on the deck, so you can drill pilot holes for the shroud attachment screw eyes or cotter pins accurately once the deck is on place.

C. Snap the deck in place, and drill pilot holes for the shroud attachments at the chainplates. The size of the pilot holes varies with the size of fittings you plan on using for chainplates. IF using kit eye screws- use 1/16” pilots. If using cotter pins, the pilot holes need to allow the pins to drop in place. If using #1-2 screws holding a chainplate, a 1/16” pilot is adequate.

D. Use CA to glue basswood reinforcement under the deck, around the hatch opening (you can also use balsa for lighter

weight, water damage is unlikely to the balsa wood under the deck)- these will lessen the chance of breaking the hatch coaming from lifting the boat improperly using the hatch opening (it happens!) But NEVER use balsa where a screw has to be set.

IX. Aft Bulkhead

The aft bulkhead shape when centered is not likely to precisely match that of the hull. The top flange-to-

deck fit is far more important than the aft bulkhead to hull fit, so we will fit the aft bulkhead such that

the TOP flange of the Aft Bulkhead fits the deck, and only then finally bond the flange to the hull.

Snap the deck back in place and use rubber bands to hold it on the hull. Push the hull hard forward into

the deck stem.

A. Be sure the aft bulkhead flange opening faces forward.

B. Slide the aft bulkhead into position through the hatch, with the bulkhead immediately aft of the hatch opening, but behind the sheet exit (dimple). Rotate the aft bulkhead so that it fits the deck. Once located, measure equidistant from the forward bulkhead (square- 12" aft on both port and starboard sides), rotate the bulkhead to be square and 12” aft of the forward bulkhead.

C. Once located, tack-bond the aft Bulkhead using thick CA- 1 drop ONLY at the center/ bottom.

D. Remove the deck. Measure and rotate to make the aft Bulkhead square in the boat- tack in place using a drop of thickened CA between the bulkhead flange and the hull on each side.

Fig 10

Check - Snap the deck back in place and use rubber bands to hold it on the hull.

Sight through the transom again, this time looking at both bulkheads for fit to the deck.

DO NOT BOND THE DECK TO THE HULL AT THIS TIME

E. Bond the Aft Bulkhead (to the hull, NOT the deck) in place, using thin CA, again leaving the top 1- 1/2” at the sheerline un-bonded.

X. Former: The wood “former” is a main strengthener for the center of the hull, mounted aft of the

keel trunk.

A. Measure and draw a centerline on the former.

B. Use a 5/32 drill bit to make two limber holes- one on each side- about 1-1/2” off center- of the

Former so water can pass through the former.

C. Using Thin CA install the Former directly behind and connected to the keel trunk, making sure it

is centered and square (measure forward from your 36” reference points).

D. The weight of the keel bears aft of the keel trunk, and can cause cracks in the hull center behind the

Former. So add a triangular-shaped brace BEHIND the Former, made of scrap wood attached to the

hull and the back surface of the Former using CA to support the keel trunk assembly better as you

transport the boat. See Figs. 11A and 11B.

Thanks to expert builder Marc Smith for this tip!!

Fig 11A

Fig 11B

XI. Install the servo, and battery mounts. It is much easier to fit the electronics now, before

the deck is installed, than reaching through the hatch opening later.

A. Interior arrangement: The objectives: 1. Keep the weight of components forward, the transom out of the water for better boat balance.

2. Center the sail servo as much as possible- this allows a longer sail arm for more sail travel.

3. Securely support the sail servo, so the twisting motion of the servo doesn’t loosen it.

4. Mount the servos and receiver clear from the bottom of the boat and any incidental water.

5. Make the electronic components removable for maintenance.

B. Install a battery shelf ahead of the forward bulkhead. Cut a 2" wide X 3/16" piece of balsa the

length required to reach across the inside of the hull just ahead of the forward bulkhead. Bevel the ends

and slightly taper so it fits the curve of the hull. It will mount at the level of the bottom of the bulkhead

opening, so you can access the battery pack. Waterproof the shelf w/ thin CA. Use Thickened CA on

the ends, activated w/CA Accelerator to bond the shelf in place, level. Add a strip of "hard" (hook)

Velcro in the center.

Fig 13

Fig 12

XII. Installation of the electronics:

A. Servos: we recommend a HiTec HS-755 HB (Plastic/Metal impregnated gear) Sail Servo,

and a HiTec HS-322 HD (metal gear) Rudder Servo.

B. (in the kit) Victor supplies a 4 X 6" 3/32 plywood radio board, plus wooden crossmember

strips for making and mounting the radio board aft of the keel trunk. These are designed to mount

the radio board aft of the keel trunk but will result in a substantial amount of weight, located too far

back in the boat.

C. Method 2: Better: the radio board is cut to fit around the keel trunk, and cutouts for the servos

are made in the board to fit the two servos. This is best done using a bandsaw, but a coping saw

will work. Use a file to "square" the cutouts. Be sure to leave clearance for the sail servo to clear

the former. Then 3/8" square basswood (not incl. in kit) is glued to the radio board using CA,

covering the access points and serving as screw mounts for the servo.

The radio board is mounted forward as far as possible, and the rudder servo is mounted beside the

keel trunk, connected to a carbon fiber tube rudder/tiller arm. The battery pack is mounted ahead

of the forward bulkhead on the battery shelf as shown in Fig. 14a.

Use the shortest crossmember piece glued across the top of the Former as a mount for the radio

board. Screw the board to the crossmember using # 2, or #4 screws (not included in the kit). Cut

the second mount piece in half, and measuring to fit, CA at the hull and the keel trunk as a mount

for the front of the board. Obviously, the radio board needs to be level in the boat.

Fig 14a

Method 3- "Servo Sled"mount for servos. If you have no bandsaw, or coping saw to cut out a

radio board, you can construct a framework to hold the servos out of the two wooden crossmember

pieces included in the kit. After gluing in the keel trunk, and the Former, plus the triangular brace:

1. Cut the shorter of the two crossmembers to length to fit across the former. Drill 3/32 pilot holes

at each end, and glue AND screw the crossmember to the former using #4 X 1/4” long self-tapping

sheet metal or wood screws.

2. Cut (2) pieces 3/8" basswood square stock (about 1" long) to fit crosswise on the crossmember

as screw mounts for the sail servo, raising it to clear the hull of the boat. Glue the 3/18 pieces to the

crossmember, and pilot drill and mount the sail servo (end closest to the shaft) then, using 2 servo

screws included w/the servo, mount the servo.

3. Screw the other end of the sail servo to the other 3/8" mount.

4. Space the servo into place on the aft crossmember almost touching the keel trunk- make sure the

servo clears the hull floor, (b) and glue the aft end of the 3/8" mount to the crossmember. again

almost touching the keel trunk. The servo should now be level forward and aft in the boat.

5. From the remaining crossmember, cut a short piece that fits (a) touching the hull, (b) touching the

keel trunk, and (c) touching the 3/8 servo screw bound. Cut it a little long, then carefully sand and

shape the end so it fits snugly in place supporting the front end of the servo. Use thick CA to glue to

the hull, the screw mount, and the keel trunk.

Servo Sled:

IMPORTANT Considerations: remember- the sail arm has to have clearance to rotate and not

hit the hull.

1. A double-arm sail arm arrangement (left in diagram 14d below) requires the sail servo to be

located more toward the center- the sail arm should be 6-1/2" to 7" long to allow adequate sail

travel!!! So the axis of the sail servo needs to be 3 - 4" away from the hull.

Fig 14c

Fig 14b

2. A single-arm arrangement (right in the diagram below) allows the sail servo to be rotated and

moved forward for better weight distribution and off to one side to allow a 3-1/2” arm. Most use a

double arm, but (IMHO) both are good choices.

3. The Sail Servo has to be higher on the radio board than the Rudder Servo so the rotating sail

arm will not snag on the rudder servo. So- mount the sail servo on 3/8" blocks (or even higher),

and the rudder servo should/ can mount on the board itself, with 3/8" square screw mounting

blocks BELOW the board.

4. Both servos have to have clearance below- they can't ride ON the hull surface- so fit the

whole radio board with servos in the boat BEFORE you glue!!!

5. The radio board mounting screws have to be accessible for a screwdriver to be used

through the hatch, or else you will not be able to remove the assembly for maintenance.

The board can be screwed in place using #2 - #4 X 1/4”long tapping screws through 3/32"

clearance holes into 1/16" pilot holes in the cross pieces. OR- mount one cross piece to the

Former, then the other to a second cross piece glued to the hull using blocks shaped to the curve

of the hull.

E. Receiver: (Note: we all use "air" receivers and "air" radios- you do not need "marine" or

"surface" receivers!) The receiver should be mounted up high using Velcro, under the deck, with

the antennae extending full length under the deck. 2.4 gHz signals do not travel through water, and a

receiver mounted low in the boat may lose its connection when the boat heels. Mount the receiver

using Velcro, either up under the deck (next to the hatch), or forward under the deck aft of the

bulkhead.

The servos and on/off switch mount in cutouts in the board or double-faced taped up under the

deck).

Fig 14d

XIII. Lazarette:

A Lazarette will allow access to the rudder. It is amazingly tight for your hands to reach back all the way to

the rudder shaft to set the screw holding your “tiller” (rudder arm). This is useful for making re-

attachments to the rudder mechanism, or emergency repairs. So, this is a good point to install your

lazarette, if you want one. Follow the Victor instructions for the Victor Lazarette Kit. Or, you can make

one using a rectangular piece of polystyrene, cut slightly larger than the 3” x 3” hole cut in the afterdeck,

screwed at the corners with #1 brass self-tapping screws.

Don’t worry about sealing out water- you should never get water over the aft deck.

XIV. Now the transom: Note: the aft end of the hull as delivered from the factory is NOT usually

cut square. So after the transom installation, you will be trimming part of the hull off the boat at the transom.

A. Using CA- glue the wood reinforcing block from the kit low to the vertical inside surface of the

transom- just up from the bottom center. (This varies from the Victor Instructions. Screwing the

backstay eye to the vertical surface of the transom places the backstay farther aft so as to not

interfere with the mainsail.)

B. Measure equal distances from your 36” reference marks on each sheerline and mark the longer

side. This will make sure the tops of the transom are square. Test fit the transom and line up with

the hull/deck marks and the one meter stern limit mark when fully pressed down inside the hull.

Small adjustments may be made by tilting the upper end of the transom fore or aft.

C. Sand the transom flange all around where it will mate to the hull and deck.

D. The transom should be in the right position with the bottom centered, just inside the 1000 mm.

length-point of the boat (leaving a 1/16” or so edge, or “lip” to use for filling).

E. This should be done while holding the transom tilted at an angle of approx. 30 degrees. Be sure

the flange on the transom faces forward, toward the hatch opening.

F. Apply a single drop of thin CA at the center bottom of the transom to locate it. Later, you will

permanently bond it.

Per the Class Rules, the lazarette cannot be more

than an opening of 9 sq. inches- so 3” X 3”.

Cut a 3 X 3” opening (use the scribing technique in

Section V), then make a cover slightly larger than 3

X 3” out of 1/16” styrene. 4 Holes and screws- and

viola!- a lazarette.

Fig 15

G. The important part of fitting the transom is to ensure it is fully pressed into the hull and

centered.

H. Once you have located the transom in the right position, hold in place with small clamps

(clothespins) at the top corners and permanently bond it w/ CA.

I. Fill the seam(s) around the transom using a Bondo-type 1-part automotive filler, Once cured,

sand until the seams are flush and smooth. Waterproof the filler: AFTER THE FILLER IS

CURED- and sanded, smooth, ready for paint- put some thin CA on a tissue, and (quickly) wipe

the filler "wet" with the CA- it will soak in and harden the filler, making it waterproof. Then sand

and paint as you paint the hull.

XV. Sheet exits (lines that control the position of the booms.) Use CA with Accelerator to bond (Kit

supplied) reinforcing blocks of wood to the underside of the deck at the dimples, then add the brass eyelets.

It is also a good idea to add eyelets to the underside of the wooden block as well-- use two eyelets from your

servo kit. Then the sheets will not wear the wooden reinforcement blocks.

Finally, use a larger drill bit (by hand is safest) to "chamfer" the wood around the lower (underdeck) sheet

exit. Coat the chamfered area with thin CA as a wear surface.

Before deck and rudder installation…

At this point, you should have:

- The keel aligned.

- The keel trunk bonded to the hull, reinforced, solidly bonded to the forward bulkhead and to the Former;

- The layout and mounting for the servos all figured out, ready to be re-screwed into the hull;

- Your servo mounting and radio mounts all planned, screws set, waterproofed (use CA as Victor suggests, or varnish, linseed oil, etc.)

- Your deck reinforced, and your sheet guides installed.

- Your transom installed. (She finally looks like a boat!)

NOTE- Once you open the Polyurethane Construction Adhesive- you must use it within a few days

otherwise it will cure in the tube. In addition, you have to seal the nozzle of the tube to prevent it

sealing closed. So, we will seal the rudder, and install the deck, using the same adhesive, and in

close proximity (time) to each other.

Fig 16

XVI. Rudder

A. Sand the facing edges of BOTH halves of the rudder shell, so

they fit tightly together.

B. Sand the inside of BOTH rudder shell halves to enhance adhesion.

C. File or grind a "flat" on the front of the rudder shaft, about 1/2"

down from the top of the shaft. This to provide a spot for your

set screw to "bite".

D. Put the rudder halves together and run masking tape all the way around ALL edges of the rudder.

E. Run Thin CA down the inside edge of the rudder, and rotate the assembly slowly so the CA runs

all around inside the inside perimeter. Spray CA Accelerator into the shell and again rotate to run

it all around the perimeter. There will be a “crackling” sound AND heat generated as the CA

cures.

G. Use thin CA and glue the rudder shaft into the rudder shell located per the Assembly Manual

instruction.

H. Shape the rudder. Standard practice is to fill the rudder shell with epoxy or polyester resin. These

materials are amazingly heavy, adding weight to the aft end of the boat. So, I am using a hollow

rudder, filled w/ air. So far- it has worked well (3 years). So, we will seal the top of the rudder shell

later, using the Liquid Nails Polyurethane Adhesive. You can also fill it w/ epoxy if you like.

I. Install the rudder and rudder block into the hull.

1. Sand the rudder block to hull shape as in the Assembly Manual Page 5.

2. Put the boat back into your jig- keel through the keel trunk, and with the keel and rudder

between the 1 X 3 boards using the washer and wing nut on the keel screw.

3. Install the brass rudder log (tube) through the rudder block with the rudder log protruding 1/8"

out of the bottom of the rudder block. "Wick" Thin CA around the Rudder Log to lock into the

block.

4. Put some Thick CA on the bottom, sanded surface of the rudder block,

and place it in the hull with the rudder log protruding about 1/16”

out of the bottom of the hull.

Keep the Thick CA away from the rudder log/tube >>>>

4. Add the tiller (fitting w/ set screw) to hold the rudder, the log, and

block in place.

Fig 17

Fig. 19

The thick CA (w/o Accelerator) will take a few minutes to cure, allowing you to use the jig to align

the rudder. The rudder IN the jig will align as you glue it in place. After all is set, put a liberal

amount of thick CA around the edges of the rudder block/hull joint to make sure it is sealed.

Waterproof the rudder block using linseed, CA, sealer or stain.

Many will reinforce the rudder block- but I think it is OK as designed, there is little side motion

applied to the rudder (if you carry the boat carefully!). If you want, though use some 3/8” basswood

stock shaped to frame the rudder block in the hull.

XVII. Deck- Now install the deck. (Finally!!!)

A. Installing the deck: 1. Test fit the deck on the hull for all around fit. The deck might be resistant to going on- but

should go on tightly. 2. Push the hull HARD forward to the stem. Use thick rubber bands to hold the deck to the

hull. Look everything over- there should be minimal “gaps” between the deck flange and the hull sheerline.

B. Deck installation is really quite simple. Two sets of hands makes it easier.

1. Installing

a. Invert the deck, laying flat on a (padded and protected) surface. An old towel works well.

b. Apply the construction adhesive inside the deck flange all around.

c. Run a bead of adhesive across the forward and aft bulkheads, and the top of the transom.

d. Snap the hull into the deck, being sure the hull is forced all the way forward, into the

stem.

Apply at least 5 heavy-duty rubber bands to hold the deck to the hull as the adhesive sets (at least

24 hours). Cleanup around the deck flange, first with a dry cloth or paper towel, then

mineral spirits. DO NOT use lacquer thinner- it will damage the hull!

2. Fill in the top of the rudder shell with the Liquid Nails. Use an old credit card, body filler

spreader, or putty knife to smooth the top edge. and clean up with mineral spirits. Later- add

some thick CA around the shaft to be sure of a good seal.

C. Fill in around the transom and the aft end of the deck, using "Bondo"- type body filler. After

curing, sand the seams until they are smooth. Once you are happy with the result, carefully wet

a tissue w/ Thin CA, then quickly wipe the filler with the CA-dampened tissue which will

waterproof the filler and harden it.

D. Check for leaks!!! After the deck to hull adhesive cures (18 - 24 hours for Liquid Nails)

carefully immerse the hull in water- section by section, and look for leaks. Put the stem (nose) under

water, and look for any water coming in. Then each side (heel the boat) then the transom.

Mark any leaks in pencil, then dry everything thoroughly. Seal around fittings using thick CA. Turn

the boat over on the deck in good lighting, and carefully press the hull in slightly as you move

around the flange. Look closely- you will likely see an open seam between the deck flange and the

hull. Press open the seam about 1/8", and run some thick CA into the opening, then quickly wipe

away any excess CA.

You won’t find any leaks though- HA!!

XVIII. Rig: Complete the rig per Victor’s instructions

A. Jib club (jib boom):

The jib pivot point (2” from the forward end of the boom) is an exact measurement without

any tolerance- make it exactly 2” from the forward edge of the wood.

B. Mast The Kit mast will make a straight section of adequate strength and light weight. Don’t sand it

to shape it excessively- you want it to be stiff so as not to depower the sail by bending aft or to the

leeward side. All material you sand off will make the mast more limber for a less powerful rig.

C. Mast Crane: The stock crane can easily bend if you bump against something; and once bent, it will repeat until it breaks. You cannot easily replace the crane later; so a great option is to make an aluminum one out of 1/16” thick T6 aluminum.

OR Reinforce the kit mast crane using a piece of brass angle (unless you are replacing the crane with an

aluminum one). Standard Crane: Scuff the top edge of the brass crane using sandpaper, then use 30-minute epoxy to attach the angle. Another option is aero-shaped brass tube- sand or grind the sharp edge to open it up. slide onto the mast crane, and glue w/ CA. Finish by rounding off edges, tapering, drilling holes for lightening, then sand off rough edges.

In either case- aluminum or brass- spray the mast crane with clear coat to avoid tarnish.

Pic fromVictor

Model Products

D. Rigging Tip: ALWAYS treat your knots with a drop of CA- ensures they will not come untied.

E. Be sure to wrap strong fishing line around the base of the mast, and around the forward end of

the mainsail boom, to avoid splitting the wood. Seal it with thin CA. See Fig. 21.

F. We recommend an easily adjustable boom vang. The stock (kit) one is NOT easily adjusted.

Victor sells a brass boom vang/ gooseneck (about $30) or there are plans out there to make your

own at lower cost.

You can order the vang from Victor. or Leading Edge Hobbies, Kingston, ON Canada

http://www.leadingedgehobbies.com/

Victor Optional Brass Boom Vang/ Gooseneck fitting

Fig. 20a and b

Fig. 21

G. Sail Control Arm and sheet rigging

Sail Arm: 3/16" Plywood, clear, sanded and finished is attractive, strong and cheap.

1. Length: Making your arm the longest within the confines of the hull will give you maximum travel

for the sails.

2. For sheet pivots on the sail control arm, you can drill holes and chamfer the edges using a larger-

diameter drill bit. If you DO just chamfer the edges, use some thin CA, sprayed with accelerator, to

create a wear surface within the chamfer so your sheets last longer.

For more wear resistance install screw-eyes, pop-rivets (remove the “nail”) or brass eyelets (like

the ones with the Kit) in the ends of the sail arm. Later you can switch to blocks if desired. - low

cost effective ones are DF-95: part #881127

https://radiosailing.net/collections/dragonflite-95-replacement-parts/products/df95-sheeting-

pulley-blockpk2 These reduce friction and wear on the sheets, and can be added later.

3. Travel: You want the two booms to pay out approximately the same at any sheet setting. Easiest

way to set sail travel is to start w/ the mainsail eye on the boom directly over the sheet exit.

4. As you move the sheet attachment FORWARD- you get more travel. Attach the jib

sheet to the jib club boom about 1-1/2" forward of the jib sheet exit. The reason their

spacing is different is that the jib boom is much closer to the deck than is the main

boom.

Fig 22

IXX. Sails:

(Recent Victor Sails have reinforced corners at the tack and clew- this is enough.) If your sails are

not reinforced, use adhesive sail repair tape (WEST Marine or sailing store) to reinforce the corners

of the sails. Tape right over the grommets. Use a small low-wattage soldering iron to heat the

grommets (carefully) - this melts the sail repair tape around the grommets and locks them in place.

Bond your grommets to the reinforcement with a few drops of thin CA.

XX. Decision: Do you want a fixed keel? In the late 1990’s, Victor added a removable keel

feature to the Soling One Meter. A removable keel is useful for traveling, shipping the boat or for some

maintenance procedures, but can allow water into the keel trunk, which can cause the wood to rot. It

also allows movement and possible misalignment.

So, many builders fix their keels using epoxy. A fixed keel also allows fairing for water flow around the

keel. A fixed keel is our recommendation unless you have a small vehicle or ship the boat.

To fix your keel: Invert the hull. Mix a hobby-grade 2-part 30-minute cure epoxy. It will be thick- so

use an epoxy brush (cheap metal-handled brush from the hobby shop) to brush epoxy all over your keel

spar, except at the top, then install the keel. Add the wing nut and tighten. Recheck keel alignment.

Wipe off excess epoxy with alcohol. Cure overnight.

Use body filler to fair in the keel. Smooth with your finger, then harden and waterproof w/ CA

(wiping CA over the cured fairing). Obviously- you will have to paint over the seam (for a white or

unpainted boat- use Satin White).

Fig 23

XXI. Sealing a removable keel - if you want a removable keel.

MANY methods have been used to seal a removable keel from water intrusion. Here are two:

A. Pack the keel box through the hull opening with Vaseline. Coat the keel spar also with

Vaseline, then slide it into the keel trunk, and tighten the keel bolt wing nut. Wipe off the excess,

using mineral spirits. You will have to do this each year- you should remove the keel in the off-

season, to thoroughly dry.

B. Coat the keel spar with plumber’s putty. It will seal, and will be (with some difficulty)

removable.

XXII. Latching the Hatch The hatch will not stay securely on the deck, unless you provide some

sort of a device to hold it in place. The simplest (my opinion) is to CA a small block of wood with a screw

eye in it to the hull floor, centered on the hatch opening. To this, attach a rubber band the other end of

which attaches to a second block w/ screw eye in the middle underside of the hatch. Also- you can place

closed-cell EPDM adhesive insulation under the hatch to seal out water.

There are other ways to secure the hatch:

- magnets on both the hatch and deck that attract and secure the hatch. SMALL ones, please!!

- a rotating wooden blade-like device on the hatch, that turns to contact the hatch opening under the deck.

Also- consider tying a string from the hatch to the chainplate- you'll never leave the hatch at home!!

XXIII . Other things you need to do:

A. You need to register your boat through the AMYA (online). It will be assigned a hull number, and you will be mailed a permanent sticker for inside the hull, usually mounted ahead of the aft bulkhead on the starboard side. Protect the sticker w/ clear postal packing tape.

B. Mark your sails with your hull number: buy vinyl numbers at the hardware store, or online

through AMYA (Ship’s Store”) – sail numbers have to be at least 3” high and 3/8” thick (stroke), and located just below the Soling “omega” logo. The starboard markings go above the port side markings.

C. If you want to color your sails- use the aerosol fabric paint designed for florists’ silk flowers

called Design Master. Just mask and spray. This will make your boat easier to identify on the water. Identifying which boat is yours, and which way you are headed, is a problem when the boat is 50 yards or so away from you.

Have Fun!!!

See also “Finishing Your Soling”, and “Electronics and Batteries”.

Questions or comments?

Mike Wyatt mikewyatt49@gmail.com

Western Reserve Model Yacht Club 440-478-8208