week 5-8 review

Unit 27 Task 3

Week 5-8

Week 5/8Improvement Priority 1: Route planning Improvement Priority 2: Core strength Date: 19/2/15 Date: 19/2/15

Time: 13:00 Time: 14:20

Venue: Adur Outdoor Activities CentreBrighton rdShoreham-by-sea West SussexBN435LT


Equipment: - Climbing wall - Rope - Belayer and belay device - Harness - Climbing shoes - Chalk - Video camera - Stopwatch

Equipment: -Flat non slip surface - Belayer and belay device -Stopwatch - Harness - Assistant - Chalk- Pad and paper - Video camera - Climbing wall - Stopwatch - Rope

Weather: Indoor climbing centre the weather does not affect the participation of climbing I this wall

Weather: Indoor climbing centre the weather does not affect the participation of climbing I this wall

Coaches Review: Has been climbing outdoors recently, through my help and taking videos of other climbers doing the same moves I want Nez to be able to do. I believe her outdoor climbing has improved, with concerns to route planning. This has to be simulated when in an indoor environment. I believe the use of video evidence she has gathered and Anna when Nez had the injury has helped her in not letting her performance drop to significantly.

Coaches Review: She has completed further outdoor climbing, doing big rock overs confidentially when in Portland, but is unable to do the same in an indoor environment at the same level. Her injury is very recent and I do not expect her to be back to normal, I believe it will take a few weeks of consistent training to reach the same level. The daily planking has seemed to help and putting her situations were there is going to be falls is also helping her core improve.

Athlete Feedback / Questions:

I feel that trough videoing others performing doing specific climbs at the level I want to achieve and the panel 15 green has helped me when comparing it to my own performance. Through the help of Colin he has showed me what I need to do to improve, and how this will help my overall climbing. After having an injury I feel that looking at others climb has really motivated my recovery, and I hope to reach my goal. Outdoor season has began and this is my strength I will be able to apply this knowledge to indoor.


Improving after my injury, Colin has got me doing some vigorous training to help my performance get back to the same level of performance and then improve further from that . When outside I have managed to apply myself to doing climbs that consist of having a strong core when holding onto small holds.

Is Progress As Expected?If No Describe:

I feel that going outside has helped Nez, when reprofiling/ testing I have found a small improvement in her time trial score and has decreased by 25 seconds which is very good for Nez. I feel that there is still some improvement to be made but this is as expected after a minor injury.


Some progress has been made, as fear is starting to decrease due to having a tighter core, her determination has increased after initial week of testing where she was giving up the rock over after only two trials. Some improvement is still needed to reach to the next hold but if we maintain training this will be able to happen in the next few weeks.

Are the Next Session Overload and Progression Plans Appropriate?If No Describe:

I think that the overload and progression plans are appropriate and should help her with route planning as I am looking at leading and putting what she has learnt through her own videos and those of other climbers into practice. Starting at a 4+ and gradual increase as she warms up into 5+ and even an easy 6 if she is feeling up to it.


Continue with daily planking try to hold for at least 1 minute twice a day. Start to be more adventurous with climbs such as overhangs, here her core strength is most appropriate.

Was Contingency Needed? If Yes Describe:

No Was Contingency Needed? If Yes Describe:

Minor due to her recovery after minor injury, if she feels any pain on the wall she should stop and take a break go back to planking daily and even wall squats to strengthen core, instead of climbing.

Week 6/8Improvement Priority 1: Route planning Improvement Priority 2: Core strength Date: 23/2/15` Date: 23/2/15

Time: 18:15 Time: 19:00




Equipment: Flat non slip surface - Stopwatch - Assistant- Pad and paper - Climbing wall - Rope - Belayer and belay device - Harness - Chalk - Video camera - Stopwatch

Weather: Indoor climbing centre, the weather does not affect the participation of climbing in this wall.


Coaches Review: Further progress has been made, as she has been leading more this week getting back into this type of climbing, after her minor injury. I feel that by planning easier routes to do, when leading will help her to achieve her CWLA as this will be the stepping stones to harder climbs when she is fully back to normal.

Coaches Review: She has been doing her planking twice a day currently, along with the wall squat test that has been pushing Nez to her full. I feel that she can do further strength training when on the wall when going for the small holds on overhangs. I believe that this is well within her capability's but her fear holds her back from attempting these climbs.


I think that I can progress from this to do further lead climbing cleanly at a 5+ 6a level, if I continue at the pace I am currently. I must be weary not to over do it as this may cause re-injury and prevent me from progressing further. But overall I believe I am doing well and on track to reaching my goal.


Colin ha got me doing dome intense training lately ready for my CWLA, I want to be able to do big rock over's as well as 6a lead climbs. I feel that this improvement in my core strength has really helped me when doing bigger moves and if I continue on this track my overall grade will improve. I am so happy with my improvement so far.


Progress has been made she has been attempting the green 6b on panel 15, has done it with assistance but now needs to do it cleanly. Her time trial score is also improving as she is getting quicker at climbs, through practise and careful planning.


Progress has been made as I am leading more, due to my confidence being improved, I would also like to improve her core further as I believe she has still not reached her potential.


The next session is progression, for me to go over with Nez were in the videos there is something other climbers are doing better, then her own performance (related to video). From this we will then practise the specific moves. So that her overall performance does improve.


Progression, I can use the video evidence to show Nez the exact point were she gives up and how to overcome this. I want her to be practising big rock over's it doesn't matter if they are not clean but to be at least attempt them with the help of Colin, is key at this stage of training programme.


No Was Contingency Needed? If Yes Describe:

No

Image of knee support on Nez to prove her injury

Although Nez feel’s she ca still climb at a 4-5+ level I and Colin feel that she should take a break and recover before returning back to climbing. As it can cause further damage to the knee then good.

In between wks 6-7 Nez was practising with Colin on a climb with a couple of small rock over's, Colin was trying to encourage her to do it when her knee went pop. I feel that this has affected the rest of her training and the last two weeks of practice, will be unlikely if she continues and retests, so that Nez could reach her aim. This is unfortunate but she can still work with the contingency's making videos of performers comparing this to her climbing. So that when she has made a recovery her performance doesn't suffer too much.

Week 7/8Improvement Priority 1: Route planning Improvement Priority 2: Core strength Date: 6/3/15 Date: 6/3/15

Time: 10:35 Time: 11:10






Weather: Indoor climbing centre ,the weather does not affect the participation of climbing in this wall.

Coaches Review: Due to Nez's injury reoccurring badly this has put her out of practice, and has affected her performance. Her recent improvement and goal may take her longer to achieve. Due to this injury. As soon as she has recovered, training will restart

Coaches Review: Due to her knee injury, this has weakened her performance and prevents her from planking. I believe that stopping training whilst she has this injury is needed, after recovery she will start training again progressively so she can reach her goal.


My injury has prevented from training, although I have been able to watch others perform and video them so that when I go back to training I can re-watch these videos to help me get back to the same level of climbing.


I feel very overworked and have been practising allot recently, my work life seems to be very busy and have had no time to practise. My knee has also prevented my daily training and it will be a few weeks before I get back to training at the same level after I recover.


progress has gone down hill, due to injury witch has prevented her form doing the 6b on panel 15. although she is still collecting video evidence and working with Colin to identify strengths and weaknesses.


Progress has gone down hill, due to her having an injury. This has postponed training until she has made a full recovery.


The next session plans will not apply as she has postponed training for a few weeks whilst she recovers from injury. It is a shame to see Nez not finish the eight weeks to prove how well the training has benefitted her performance and to show that she could know do the 6b on panel 15. but I believe once she has recovered and continues to go outdoors she will be a 6b climber.




Yes. She will be taking video footage of other climbers and identifying her own weaknesses she will not be climbing over the next two weeks.


Yes. Her knee prevents her from training, and planking daily.

Week 8/8Improvement Priority 1: Improvement Priority 2:Date: 18/3/15 Date: 18/3/15

Time: 7:00 Time: 7:35







Coaches Review: Being out of action this week and the last has really affected Nez she is so eager to get back to training. I feel she needs a few more weeks to fully recover before she attempts anything above a 5+ grade.

Coaches Review: Currently her daily planking and wall squats have stopped, due to injury. I feel that she will continue with training after she has recovered.


I am so annoyed that I am not able to train this week. I am so eager to get back to training. My injury has prevented from training, although I have been able to watch others perform and video them so that when I go back to training I can re-watch these videos to help me get back to the same level of climbing.


I am disappointed that I have not been training this week. I feel very overworked and have been practising allot recently, my work life seems to be very busy and have had no time to practise. My knee has also prevented my daily training and it will be a few weeks before I get back to training at the same level after I recover.


progress has gone down hill, due to injury witch has prevented her form doing the 6b on panel 15. although she is still collecting video evidence and working with Colin to identify strengths and weaknesses.


Progress has gone down hill, due to her having an injury. This has postponed training until she has made a full recovery.






Yes. She will be taking video footage of other climbers and identifying her own weaknesses she will not be climbing over the next two weeks.


Yes. But for this weakness no training can help as she is out of action and needs to rest. Training will begin once she has recovered.

Week 4 Review Testing Excellence Trait – Weakness 1/2

Trait: Route planning

Test Name: Climbing time trials

Standardised Test:

No Normative Data: No

If Not A Standardised Test Detail Method Here:

• The athlete picks a wall that is of a 6a or above grade (elite performance level) that they have never done before.

• The athlete then climbs up the wall in the quickest time that they can on a top rope, there is no time limit but should be fast as it is a speed test.

• This is repeated by 5-10 other climbers of the same performance level.

• The time s are recorded and put in order from fastest to slowest AOAC In Shoreham, doing panel 7 yellow 6a

• For this trial I used AOAC in Shoreham, the climb we chose was to do the time trials was the yellow 6a on panel 7.

Test Result 1: 1 minute 31.24 seconds

Test Result 1 Rating: 3rd

Test Result 2: 0 minutes 59.35 seconds

Test Result 2 Rating: 1st

Test Result 3: 1 min 12.4 seconds Test Result 3 Rating: 2nd

Best Result: 59.35 seconds

Best Result Rating:

1st compared to other climbers Nez’s, best score ranking was 8th when compared to 11 other participants and has now been ranked at: 7th although there is a 2 minute 48 second difference between 7th and 11th place

Week 4 Review Testing Excellence Trait – Weakness 2/2

Trait: Core strength

Test Name: Core muscle strength and stability test

Standardised Test:

Yes Normative Data: No

If Not A Standardised Test Detail Method Here:

• http://www.brianmac.co.uk/coretest.htm

Test Result 1: 51.6 Test Result 1 Rating: 1st

Test Result 2: 47.3 Test Result 2 Rating: 3rd

Test Result 3: 48.5 Test Result 3 Rating: 2nd

Best Result: 51.6 seconds

Best result rating:

1st

week 5-8 review

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