VINOT Tasting #53-October 20, 2016Information on the wines

Chablis Wine

Chablis is an historic wine-producing town in northern-central France. It produces light, dry white wines famed for their minerality and crisp acidity. AOC Chablis wines are produced exclusively from Chardonnay.

Chablis is located in northern Burgundy (Bourgogne), although the town and its vineyards are located a considerable distance (more than 60 miles/100 km) northwest of Burgundy's main wine-producing areas around Nuits-Saint-Georges, Beaune, Chalon-sur-Saone and Macon. They are in fact closer to Sancerre (Loire) and Les Riceys (southern Champagne). Consequently, Chablis has a cooler climate than the rest of Burgundy, which contributes significantly to the style of wine its vineyards produce. The effects of terroir on wine can be seen more clearly in Chablis than almost anywhere else.

Vineyards in Chablis

A key division within Chablis lies between terroirs with Kimmeridgian soils and those with Portlandian soils. Kimmeridgian soil is more highly regarded; it

contains greater levels of mineral-rich clay, as well as the essential marine fossils which are responsible for its significant lime content. Kimmeridgian soils are the source of the trademark minerality in Premier Cru and Grand Cru wines from Chablis. By contrast, Portlandian soils are not so rich in clay and fossils, which results in slightly fruitier wines with a less mineral profile. Petit Chablis wines are most often grown in Portlandian soils.

Chablis wines are made in a style rather different from those produced elsewhere in Burgundy. They are drier and fresher, rather than weightier and richly flavored. Unlike typical Burgundian white wines, which are barrel fermented, Chablis is usually entirely free of any oak influence. Very few Chablis producers use oak barrels in their winemaking and the exceptions are restricted to the higher-quality wines, whose extra complexity and depth mean that the wines are not overpowered by oak flavors.

The vineyards of Chablis are classified into four tiers of quality. Starting from the top, they are: Chablis Grand Cru, Chablis Premier Cru, Chablis and Petit Chablis. Wines that conform to the general Chablis appellation laws may claim the classification held by the vineyard where they were grown.

The appellation AOC Chablis is the most prolific and geographically widespread of the four classifications. It was created in 1938 – at the same time as the Chablis Grand Cru appellation – to protect the Chablis name, which was being used around the world to describe wines bearing little resemblance to the real Chablis. Today, all wines carrying the Chablis title are dry whites made exclusively from Chardonnay. They must be produced from vineyards in a specifically designated area surrounding Chablis town and its nearby villages.

Chablis Premier Cru is not a distinct appellation like the other three classifications, but rather a quality sub-division of the standard AOC Chablis title. Its geographical coverage is significantly larger than that of Chablis Grand Cru. There are 40 climats (vineyard sites) around Chablis which are deemed worthy of the Premier Cru title, and these are further subdivided into roughly 80 specific vineyards. The wines produced under this title are made according to quality

controls that are halfway between those of the Chablis and Grand Cru Chablis appellations.

Chablis Grand Cru wines are produced from just 250 acres (100ha) of vineyards planted on gentle south-west-facing slopes at the eastern edge of the town. There are seven named Grand Cru climats. Running from north to south along the Serein river they are:Preuses, Bougros, Vaudesir, Grenouilles, Valmur, Les Clos and Blanchot. Wines claiming the Grand Cru title are made under stringent regulations; the maximum permitted yield is lower than for standard Chablis, and the minimum potential alcohol one degree higher. Chablis Grand Cru wines respond well to bottle ageing for between 10 and 15 years.

Petit Chablis is the least prestigious of the Chablis appellations. It was created in 1944 to cover the less highly rated vineyard sites in the area, generally located on plateaux above the Premier Cru or Grand Cru sites. Because they are more exposed to wind, and are not angled towards the afternoon sun, these sites do not benefit from the same climatic and geological advantages as the better vineyards, and produce less complex, less refined wines.

Just 8 miles (13km) south-west of Chablis lie two villages with their own wine styles and appellations. These are Irancy (Pinot Noir) and Saint-Bris (Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris).

2011 Chablis Domaine Droin

Domaine Droin, operated by 14th generation winemaker Benoit Droin, is one of the top producers of modern Chablis. Though the family viticulture history stretches back to the early 1600s, Benoit is an innovator in Chablis, running one of the most modern winemaking facilities in northern Burgundy and producing a bigger, riper style of Chablis while maintaining the regions signature focus and minerality. Fermented and raised entirely in tank, the 2014 Domaine Droin Chablis AOP is a middle ground between the traditional and modern, a steely, vibrant cold climate Chardonnay that also manages to maintain plenty of green apple and citrus peel driven fruit flavors. Far from internationally styled, it still has the flinty minerality and mouthwatering acidity that Chablis lovers crave.  It would be a perfect accompaniment to raw oysters or a hunk of Epoisses. The domaine produces as many different wines as there have been Droin generations--14--bottled according to vineyard, but are generally characterized by a buttery richness paired with a raciness and purity of fruit

Critic Reviews90100Average Critic Score3 Scores96 – 100089 – 95380 – 88070 - 7900 - 69092100

Tim Atkin91100Vinous Antonio Galloni89100

CellarTracker (10 notes)

Pinot Noir Wine

Pinot Noir is the red wine grape of Burgundy, now adopted (and feverishly studied) in wine regions all over the world. The variety's elusive charm has carried it to all manner of vineyards, from western Germany and northern Italy to Chile, South Africa, Australia and, perhaps most notably, California, Oregon and New Zealand. It is the patriarch of the Pinot family of grape varieties – so called because their bunches are similar in shape to a pine cone (pinot in French). Other members of this family include Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Meunier, Aligote and Pinot Noir's white-wine counterpart, Chardonnay.

Pinot Noir causes more discussion and dispute than any other grape, most of which centers around finding and describing the variety's "true" expression. Examples fromSantenay are undeniably different from those made on the other side of the world inCentral Otago, and yet they are all unmistakably, unquestionably Pinot Noir. It takes a great deal of care and skill to make Pinot perform, and the results vary wildly from watery, acidic candy water to some of the richest, most intensely perfumed wines on Earth. This elusive perfection has earned the variety obsessive adoration from wine lovers all over the world.

A cluster of Pinot Noir grapes

In Burgundy (Pinot's homeland), the traditional vigneron focuses more on soil and climate than on the qualities of the grape variety itself (this is, after all, the home ofterroir). Even very subtle differences in terroir are reflected in Pinot Noir wines made there. There are clear and consistent differences between the wines

of Volnay and Pommard, for example, even though the villages are separated by just one mile.

The effects of terroir aren't limited to Burgundy, of course – every region has its own particular terroir, and these are reflected in its wines, particularly when it comes to terroir-sensitive varieties such as Pinot Noir. Although many winemakers in the New World attempt to emulate the Burgundy style, the newer Pinot regions in Oregon, Washington, California and New Zealand have their own individual expressions and interpretations of the variety.

The essence of Pinot Noir wine is its aroma of strawberry and cherry (fresh red cherries in lighter wines and stewed black cherries in weightier examples), underpinned in the most complex examples by hints of undergrowth (sous-bois). Well-built Pinot Noirs, particularly from warmer harvests, also exhibit notes of leather and violets, sometimes approaching the flavor spectrum of Syrah.

The question of oak in Pinot Noir winemaking is frequently raised, as are the length of fermentation and the option of a pre-ferment maceration (cold soak). Cooler temperatures lead to fresher fruit flavors, while longer, warmer fermentations and pigeage result in more extracted wines with greater tannic structure. In order to retain as much Pinot character as possible, many producers have turned to biodynamic viticulture, avoiding the use of commercial fertilizers that may disrupt the variety's sensitive chemical balance.

Although Pinot Noir earns most of its fame from its still, red, varietal wines, the variety is also a vital ingredient in the production of sparkling white wines. For these, it can be used alone (to produce blanc de noirs), but is most commonly blended with its cousin Chardonnay, and other members of the Pinot family – most obviously Pinot Meunier inChampagne and Pinot Blanc in Franciacorta. The highly successful Pinot – Chardonnaysparkling wine blend has been adopted by regions all around the world, in Europe, the Americas, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand.

Calera Mt. Harlan Ryan Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012

Pinot Noir from Mt. Harlan, Central Coast, California

CaleraCalera is a small ultra-premium winery located in the limestone-rich Gavilan Mountains, east of Monterey and south of Hollister, California. Josh Jensen planted Calera's first 23 acres of Pinot Noir in 1975. An additional 26.6 acres of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Viognier were planted in the 1980s, and 33 more acres, mostly Pinot Noir but also some additional Chardonnay, in 1997 and 1998. All these parces are in the Mt. Harlan AVA that was created in 1990. Calera produces 8 single-vineyard wines from Mt. Harlan, as well as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from grapes purchased from selected vineyards in the Central Coast regions.

Calera Ryan Pinot Noir 2012

14.7% abv

RP94

WS93

WW93

PR93

V93

Winemaker's NotesThe 2012 Ryan vineyard Pinot Noir embodies intensity, purity and uniqueness; dark berry, mineral and raspberry cream aromas beautifully complement flavors of cassis, sour cherry, wet stone, wild dried fennel and sweet oak. Its embracing texture of very fine tannins is structured and deep, hinting toward a very long life ahead.

Critical Acclaim RP94

The Wine Advocate - "From one of the cooler terroirs on the estate, the 2012 Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard offers full-bodied richness and depth to go with ample sweet black cherries, cassis, sassafras, crushed flowers and toasted spice. A decidedly hedonistic, full throttled example of this cuvee, this superb Pinot Noir firms up nicely on the finish and has a full, layered mid-palate. Drink it now, or cellar it for a decade."

WS93Wine Spectator - "Tightly wound, with a firm mix of snappy dark berry, gravel, cedar and limestone, featuring fine-grained tannins that keep the flavors on the palate, giving them traction and persistence. Needs time. Best from 2016 through 2026."

WW93Wilfred Wong of Wine.com - "When "us" guys in the business talk about Pinot Noir purity, all we need to do is to point to the excellent 2012 Calera Ryan. This wine exhibits uncommon delicate notes that most others miss. Light to medium garnet color; very aromatic notes that stays with pure red fruits and dried spiced notes, excellent depth, yet understated and refined; dry, fine acidity, well balanced; bright red flavors, some slate and mineral, too are long and persistent; medium to lingering finish. Starting to drink now. (Tasted: November 20, 2015, San Francisco, CA)"

PR93PinotReport - "Deep ruby color; complex aromas of black cherry, herb and earth; rich cherry liquor and blackberry flavors with herb and oak notes; good structure and balance; long finish. A nicely structured and well balanced Pinot. Needs time but would be great with a ribeye now."

V93Vinous / Antonio Galloni - "The 2012 Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard is one of the more laid-back Pinots in this range, with expressive aromatics pushed forward, while the fruit lies more in the background. Sage, mint, lavender and violet overtones grace the mid-weight, subtle finish. Ryan is the highest elevation parcel on the estate's ranch."

Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges Premier Cru Clos des Porrets 2012

Pinot Noir from Burgundy, France

Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Porrets-Saint-Georges Wine

© Wine-Searcher

Clos des Porrets-Saint-Georges (often spelled Poirets-Saint-Georges) is a small enclave of the larger Les Porrets-Saint-Georges Premier Cru site in Nuits-Saint-Georges. This vineyard, a monopole of Henri Gouges, is somewhat of a curiosity within theCote de Nuits subregion of Burgundy: it is planted to both Pinot Noir and an extremely rare, light-skinned mutation of Pinot Noir. Consequently, Clos des Porrets-Saint-Georges wines can be either red or white.

The vineyard's position on the slope gives it an excellent terroir, as both the soil types found here and the aspect of the vineyard ultimately have a considerable effect on the quality of the wine. A southeast exposure means that vines are in the sunlight for a considerable portion of the day, and so benefit from a warm mesoclimate. This means grapes have sufficient time to reach optimum ripeness prior to harvest, while still retaining vital acidity.

Clos de Porrets has deep, stony soils with a good amount of clay, covering a hard, limestone base. This soil is excellent for viticulture as it allows for plentiful drainage, ensuring that there is not an excess of water in the soil. Canopy growth is limited, channeling energy into grape production instead, and root systems can grow deeply into the soil to access water and minerals. The quarry on the hillside above the site betrays the limestone substrata on this part of the Cote d'Or.

The name Clos de Porrets is possibly a throwback to a time when pear trees were found planted on the slopes – known in French as poiriers.

RP94 

V94 

WS93 

BH92

Winemaker's NotesThis Premier Cru - exclusive to the Gouges domain with its 3.5 hectare vineyard - perfectly expresses the full character of Nuitonne Cote wines and their alignment of vines hanging onto the sloping hills : very subtle wines, developing beautiful aromatic qualities.

Critical Acclaim RP94

The Wine Advocate - "The 2012 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Clos des Porrets St Georges has a vivacious bouquet with ebullient raspberry and wild strawberry fruit, fine mineralité with great focus. Everything is beautifully controlled here. The palate is medium-bodied with taut, tensile tannin. A little chalky in texture, it has a wonderful sense of transparency with thrilling poise on the finish enlivened by hints of sour cherry. This has great potential but it needs three of four years in bottle."

V94Vinous / Antonio Galloni - "The 2012 Nuits St. Georges Clos des Porrets Saint-Georges is beautifully round and supple. Here the fruit is distinctly red-toned, with hints of iron, earthiness, smoke and tobacco that add complexity. The 2012 will be highly appealing young because of its pure density, but it also appears to have the stuffing to age well for a number of years. This is a great showing from Gouges. Range: 92-94+ "

WS93Wine Spectator - "Cherry and strawberry flavors override the slight reduction, led by the vibrant structure to a long, mouthwatering conclusion. Balanced, pure and focused, if compact, with a tight finish. This improves with air, so decant now or be patient. Best from 2018 through 2032."

BH92Burghound.com - "Reduction presently dominates the nose. There is excellent size, weight and muscle to the overtly rustic, intense and attractively textured big-bodied flavors that possess fine mid-palate concentration along with plenty of structure buffering dry extract. As is usually the case with this presently linear wine, ample patience will be required. 

Range: 90-92"

Sta Rita Hills Wine

Sta. Rita Hills is an AVA in the Santa Ynez Valley of California's Central Coast wine region. It is one of America's most respected cool-climate viticultural areas, best known for its Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah.

Coastal valleys funnel cool winds to the vineyards©SBCVA

With a latitude of 34 degrees north, Sta. Rita Hills lies closer to the equator than any European wine region. However, the increase in temperature is tempered by strongmaritime influences. Just as the climate inSicily, Cyprus and Crete (home to Europe's southernmost vineyard areas) is moderated by the Mediterranean, the Pacific Ocean keeps daytime temperatures here within bearable limits.

Between Santa Maria and Santa Barbara, the Californian coastline juts obtusely into the Pacific, forming a broad peninsular of sorts. The Sta. Rita Hills vineyards benefit from the Pacific's cooling influences on three sides, since the coast lies 16 miles (25km) away to the west, south and south-east. Margaret River on Western Australia's Indian Ocean coast enjoys a similar kind of coastline.

Coastal valleys create corridors which funnel cool Pacific breezes up through the vineyards. This ventilation helps to maintain healthy vineyards by reducing the incidence of fungal infections, and also cools the vines down in the hot afternoon sunshine. Additionally, an extended growing season gives the grapes extra time to develop fullphenolic ripeness.

When it was created in July 2001, the AVA was officially known as Santa Rita Hills, but following protests from the large Chilean wine company Vina Santa

Rita, it was abbreviated to Sta. Rita Hills in 2006.

Hilliard Bruce SKY Pinot Noir 2011

Pinot Noir from Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara, Central Coast, California

Hilliard Bruce2011 Pinot Noir

The Hilliard Bruce 2011 “Sky” Pinot Noir reflects a pure balance between earth, spice, and fruit characteristics in a complex and compelling style. Aromatically, the wine offers notes of plum and dried cherry with hints of rose petals and

rosemary. On the palate, this Pinot Noir conveys both substance and lightness with a velvety mouthfeel, supple tannins, and flavors of plum, cola, and white pepper.

"Sky" Sta. Rita HillsSanta Barbara County regionPinot Noir Wine Club Selection

95 Points — Antonio Galloni's Vinous94 Points — Pinot File92 Points — Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate92 Points — Stephen Tanzer

AppellationSanta Barbara County’s Santa Rita Hills AVA

Grapes100% Pinot Noir

Aged

18 months in oakCases Produced

420Enjoy Until 2021 14.0% abvV95RP92

Winemaker's NotesSky offers notes of exotic spices and dried cherry underpinned by rose petals and plum. On the palate, it shows a refined balance of both substance and lightness; a velvety mouthfeel of supple tannins juxtaposed by fresh acidity. Pommard and Calera clones showcase a deep cola and white pepper that carry over to an incredibly long finish. 16 months in 30% new French oak.Sta. Rita Hills > Santa Barbara > Central Coast > California

Critical Acclaim V95

Vinous / Antonio Galloni - "The 2011 Pinot Noir Sky is one of the most beautiful wines proprietors John Hilliard and Christine Bruce have made in their short history. A burst of juicy dark fruit melds into expressive, floral and spiced notes

supported by veins of salinity as this exuberant Pinot shows off its racy personality. Rich, full-bodied and intense, the 2011 Sky boasts exceptional balance to match. What a wine!"

RP92The Wine Advocate - "The 2011 Pinot Noir Sky, 100% Pinot Noir aged 18 months in 50% new French oak, offers up plenty of dark berries, earth, forest floor and spice aromas and flavors to go with a medium-bodied, richly textured palate feel. Focused, pure and clean, with outstanding mid-palate depth and ripe tannin, it will benefit from short-term cellaring and drink nicely for upwards of a decade. It’s made in a darker, richer style and is superb. Drink 2015-2021. "