CONSTRUCTION FUNDAMENTALS

FASHION 1130

RESOURCE/WORKBOOK BOOKLET

COURSE FAS1130: CONSTRUCTION FUNDAMENTALS 1

Learn how to determine pattern size, choose a suitable pattern and woven fabric, make pattern alterations, and prepare the fabric and pattern for layout. Apply these skills during the assembly of a simple garment

Assignments

1. Research the current fashion trends for the upcoming Spring season. Colors, shapes, fabrics, skirt lengths,…

a. Create a collage showing awareness of current trends in tops, bottoms and accessories.

b. What fashion trends do you find appealing and why?

3. Read Sewing Pattern Envelope tips and Choosing the correct pattern size (attached), highlighting important information in selecting your pattern.

4. Measure yourself and determine your correct pattern size.

5. Locate the pattern you would like to sew on line and discuss with teacher before purchasing your pattern.

6. Using your pattern envelope answer the following. Attach envelope or photocopy

a. What company? b. Pattern number?c. Width of fabric you purchased?d. Layout used for pinning?e. Notions required?f. Pattern description?g. Finished measurements for your pattern and view?h. Did you need interfacing or contrast fabric for your pattern? How did

you decide the amounts?

6. Purchase the supplies necessary to complete a project to construct in your size.

-Garment for this project must include a minimum of three of the following construction details or details from a higher level.

-basting, seam/seam finish, bulk reduction, closure, hem treatment, pocket, shaping technique, sleeve, and/or neck/waist treatment

7. Define:a. Fittingb. alteration c. adjustment d. preshrinking fabric e. straighten the fabric grain f. selvage g. lengthwise grain h. crosswise grain i. bias/true bias j. raw/cut edgek. nap

8. Keep an ongoing journal of your progress on your project.

8. Construction Fundamental Project summary sheet

Answer/complete the following questions and hand in with your finished project.

b. What determined your project choices?a. Colorb. Fabric type and weight and finishesc. Styled. Coste. End Usef. Purposeg. Fabric care requiredh. Fibre type/characteristicsi. Ease (design ease or wearing ease)j. Sewing techniques used in your project-summarize each new skill and

explain steps in constructionc. Draw a rendered/colour sketch of your project as real to life as you can.

(same colors, fabrics and style)d. What was the most challenging construction skill that you completed in this

project? Explain why it was challenging.e. What were the easier skills that are more successful due to more experience?f. What pattern symbols did you use in your pattern instructions? Explain each

symbol briefly.g. What symbols required transferring onto fabric before sewing? What method

of transfer did you use and why?

h. Draw below the care label that should be attached to your finished project using international care symbols.

Sewing Pattern Envelope Tips

Eliminate the time consuming guesswork when selecting patterns, fabrics and notions. This detailed information will provide you with tips for the sewing pattern envelope.

Take home exactly what is required to complete a project without extra trips to the store.

Sewing Pattern Envelope Tips will provide detailed and helpful information that will provide tips for the sewing pattern envelope.   Eliminate the time consuming guess work in selecting patterns, fabrics and notions.  Take home exactly what you need for your sewing project without extra trips to the store.

  Once you have selected your pattern, stop and take a look at the sewing pattern     envelope as it is full of important information.     FRONT OF PATTERN ENVELOPE

On the front of the pattern envelope, at the top, you will see the size and figure type.  For instance, "Size 10, Miss".  If the pattern contains several sizes it will indicate all the sizes within the pattern envelope.  For example, 8,10,12.  The pattern pieces will have cutting lines for all the sizes indicated on the pattern

envelope.

STYLES

All the styles that are included in the pattern envelope will be illustrated or modeled on the front.  The price of the pattern can be on the front, but a lot of times it is located on the flap.

FRONT OF PATTERN ENVELOPE

The front of the pattern envelope usually indicates the degree of sewing difficulty by stating "designer" which is the most difficult, original and easy-to-sew.

BACK OF PATTERN ENVELOPE

Turn the pattern envelope over to the other side and view the back. Here you will also find valuable information.  Right off you will notice several views or styles that can be made from this particular pattern.  The front and the back will be shown here.  Select the style you want to make first because the fabric requirements depend on the chosen style.

The back of the sewing pattern envelope has a fabric chart.  This chart gives the amount of fabric needed for each style or view.  Fabrics are sold in various widths such as  35-36, 42-44, & 60 inch.  Cotton and linens are usually 35-36 inch widths, silks at 45 inch widths, blended fabrics at 42-45 inch widths and wools at 50-52 inch widths.  It varies, check the width first. It will clearly state the width at one end of the bolt along with care instructions. 

HOW MUCH FABRIC IS REQUIRED In order to determine the amount of fabric needed for the project, first select the view.  For example, view A.   Then under view A find the correct width of the fabric and slide your finger across to the desired size.  You will then be able to see the correct yardage required for that particular view.     WITHOUT NAPWithout nap means that they are assuming that the fabric selected does not have a one way design or a texture like corduroy or velvet.  Fabrics with a one way design or textures, need to be cut all in the same direction. Otherwise it will appear to have different shades or the design could run upside down. 

Not sure if your fabric has a nap, you can ask at the cutting table, but to be safe you can use the "with nap" layout instructions for cutting.  This will assure that all pieces will be cut facing the same direction.  You don't have to worry about solid fabrics in cotton as it looks the same from both directions.

SUGGESTED FABRICS

The suggested fabrics area gives you examples of fabrics that are suitable for this particular pattern style.  It will also indicate which fabrics are not suitable.

NOTIONSIn the "notions" section of the sewing pattern envelope you will find all the things necessary that you must have available in order to complete the garment.  You may already have some of these on hand and may have to purchase others.

STRIPE, CHECK OR PLAID

Not all sewing patterns are suitable for stripes, checks or plaids.  However, if  the style is displayed on the front of the sewing pattern envelope in a stripe, check or plaid, then the pattern is suitable for those types of fabrics.

GARMENT DESCRIPTION   

You can also find a garment description, on the back, at the top.  This will describe the style, fit and constructions information.  For example, wide leg pants as opposed to narrow leg pants.

PATTERN PIECES

Below the style number you will find the number of pattern pieces inside the envelope.  This is usually a good indicator of how easy or difficult the pattern is to sew. The more pattern pieces the more difficult it will be to sew.

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS

Towards the bottom of the sewing pattern envelope you will see a section called finished garment measurements.   It will show finished length and bottom width of each garment.  To locate the measurement, select the size you will make and scroll down to your garment indicated on the left side of the envelope. The width of the hemmed edge indicates the fullness of the garment.

KNITS ONLY PATTERN

Patterns can be expensive, but if you sign up for JoAnn's mailer you will be advised of their pattern sales.  They can go on sale for $1.99, sometimes they even go on sale for 99 cents.

With these sewing pattern envelope tips you should feel confident and stock up on your favorite sewing patterns.

Choose the Correct Pattern Size

Learn how to choose the correct pattern size for a well-fitting garment.

by Susan Andriksfrom Threads #86, pp. 14, 16

The first step to making a garment that fits well is to choose the correct pattern size. This may seem obvious, but it's surprising how many sewers start with the wrong size, then end up making a lot of adjustments to get a good fit.

Measurements are key When choosing a pattern size, you need to know some basic body measurements (see Personal measurement chart). I'll tell you how to use these measurements in a moment, but first let me explain why you can't simply rely on your ready-to-wear size when it comes to choosing patterns.

As I'm sure you're aware, sizing in the ready-to-wear industry is not consistent and most of us fit into a wide range of sizes, depending on the designer or manufacturer. Designers frequently use what's called vanity sizing, which adds inches to each size. What might have been a size 16 a few years ago, for example, is labeled a size 10 or 12 today.

Among the major pattern companies (see Pattern companies online), however, sizing is based on a standard set of body measurements, which are provided on each pattern envelope and at the back of the pattern catalogs. Once you've determined your pattern size by comparing your measurements with these standards, you can purchase that size for any of the company's patterns. But because very few figures will match a pattern company's standard measurements exactly, below are some guidelines for choosing a pattern size.

Comparing measurements First if you're unsure of which size category your body type fits into, such as misses', women's, or petite, check your height and back-waist length measurements (see the Personal measurement chart below), and compare them to the measurement charts provided on the back of each pattern catalog. Then take your full-bust, high-bust, waist, and hip measurements, and compare them with the standard measurements within that figure category. When you choose a blouse, dress, or jacket pattern, compare your high-bust measurement with the standard bust measurement on the chart to get the best fit in the shoulder area. It's important to fit the shoulder area first, because this area is harder to alter on a pattern than the bust cup, waist, and hip.

When choosing pants and skirt patterns, compare the waist and hip measurements: Your choice will be determined by your hip measurement. If the skirt is full, use your waist measurement to select a pattern size.

If your measurements fall between two sizes, consider your bone structure. If you're small-boned, buy the smaller size; conversely, if you're large-boned, buy the larger.

Compare your measurements to those on the back of the pattern envelope. Each pattern company bases sizing on a standard set of body measurements.

Personal measurement chart

Take and record your basic body measurements wearing well-fitting undergarments. Tie 1/4-in. elastic around your waist to find exact placement. Hold the tape measure snugly, but not tightly.

1. Height: Without shoes, standing against a wall

2. Back-waist length: From prominent bone at base of neck to natural waistline

3. High bust: High up under arms across chest and back

4. Full bust: Straight across back and around fullest part of bust

5. Waist: Around body at natural waistline

6. Hips: Around body at fullest part of hips

Consider garment ease

To fit comfortably, a garment must have ease built into it: Wearing ease is the minimum amount of inches added to a pattern so that you can move in the garment, and design ease is the amount the designer added or subtracted to create a particular silhouette. Ease allowances, found at the back of the pattern catalogs, may vary slightly from company to company and in some cases the ease allowed may affect the size pattern you choose. For example, if a style is loose-fitting with a large amount of ease and you prefer a closer fit, you might decide to choose a smaller size.

So get out a tape measure to find your correct size. In most cases, your pattern size will probably be larger than your ready-to-wear size, but when you start with the right number, fitting is so much easier.

Susan Andriks sews and teaches in Canterbury, New Hampshire.

Photos: Sloan Howard; drawings: Karen Meyer

Pattern companies online

Butterickwww.butterick.com

McCall’swww.mccall.com

Simplicitywww.simplicity.com

Voguewww.voguepatterns.com

Kwik Sewwww.kwiksew.com

Style Patternswww.simplicity.com

New Lookwww.simplicity.com

Stretch and Sewwww.stretch-and-sew.com