Every dollar helps!

These manuals are the culmination of more then 10 years of designand publication and formally sold for $10.00 each. With 54 different

manuals available, that’s a $540.00 value.

Now, due to the worldwide economic collapse, they are my gift to you.My hope is that you will enjoy these great little airplanes as much as I

have enjoyed designing them for you.

You may build as many planes as you like.Sell your planes, or give them away.

Tell ALL your airplane loving friends to come to the site and get asmany of the manuals as they like.

If you enjoy these planes, please help to ensure this site stays on-lineand these airplane manuals remain available for all to enjoy. Any

amount you donate is greatly appreciated.

May God bless you and keep you safe.

Thank You & Enjoy!Wayne

www.bcair.comCopyright © 2007 B. C. Air OriginalsTOP SECRET

Step By Step Construction Plans.24 Pages With Over 60 Full Color Photos showing how to build the

Can be made frommost 16oz Beverage Cans.

Huey

HelicopterLength: 15”Height: 6”

Welcome to the B. C. Air Originals Squadron.

This booklet contains complete step by step instructions for building the B. C. AirOriginals Helicopter. Before you start building your first Helo it is suggested thatyou review the entire set of plan directions. Once you have previewed the construc-tion steps you should start collecting the cans that you want to use to make yourfirst Helo. These plans are designed to be used with any 16 oz. beverage can. Al-ways use clean, unscratched and undented cans for the best looking Helicopters.

Since the building of these planes requires the cutting of cans and the use of sharptools, CHILDREN SHOULD NEVER ATTEMPT THE CONSTRUCTION OFTHESE PLANES WITHOUT ADULT SUPERVISION AND GUIDANCE.CONSUMER ACCEPTS ALL RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY INJURY IN-CURRED IN THE BUILDING OF THESE PLANES.

It is not necessary to follow all the building steps in the order presented. Such as, ifyou want to make the Tail Section first, you can do that and then set it aside untilyou need it. However, until you understand the construction of these planes, it maybe easier to follow the steps in the order listed. Your very first step should be tomake a copy of all the templates. All templates are drawn to scale. Using a sheetof mylar (Clear Plastic) will enable you to re-use your templates again and again.There is no limit to the number of Helos you can build with these plans.

We, at B. C. Air Originals, will make every effort to assist you in answering anyquestions you may have about the construction of these Helicopters. Please feelfree to contact us ANY TIME at command@bcairoriginals.com.

Thank you for your interest in the B. C. Air Originals and have FUN!

D. P. (Wayne) Mathis

When you print your manuals be sure that your printer is set on it’s MAXprinting area to ensure that all the templates print out to the correct size.The standard 12 oz Can, here in the US, measures 2 1/2" in diameter. If theCans you’re using to make your plane are smaller or larger, then here’swhat you do..... Measure the diameter of your Can and find what percent-age of 2 1/2" it is.... I.e. If your Can measures only 2 1/4" (in diameter)then 2 1/4" is = to 90% of 2 1/2" so you would print out all the templatesat 90% instead of at 100%. If your Can measures 3" (in diameter) then 3"is = to 120% of 2 1/2" so you would print out all of the templates at 120%.etc.Some of these models were originally designed in 1984. Since then thebuilding techniques of these planes has changed over time. I.e. many of theplanes no longer require the use of the wooden former “F-1 & F-2”. Wesimply glue the “B-2’s” onto the BACK (BOTTOM) of the Can “B-1” oruse corrugated cardboard in place of the wood. (See http://www.bcair.com/BT/nwf1.htm and http://www.bcair.com/BT/nf1.htm )Once you’ve reviewed your manual and you’re ready to start your firstplane, go here > http://www.bcair.com/BT/ < and look over the Builder’sTips. These are building tips sent in from builders all over the world. Theywill help you to make these planes easier and faster. Bookmark this page asit is NOT accessible from the main web site.You can obtain the plastic props used on these planes from yourlocal Hobby Shop or here’s where I get my props on-line > http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0091p?&C=QBC&V=MAS <.Here’s where I get my Wooden Propellers on-line > http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0097p?FVSEARCH=PROPELLERS+++&CATEGORY=QB&MANUFACTURER=TOP&submit=Submit+AdvancedSearch<Any 5-7" prop, with any pitch, will work on these planes.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0097p?FVSEARCH=PROPELLERS+++&CATEGORY=QB&MANUFACTURER=TOP&submit=Submit+AdvancedSearch

The following is a list of tools and materials I use to build these planes.You may find that you do not need all of the tools that I use.Use whatever works best for you.

Small hammer of some kind.Pliers.Flat head screw driver.Hand stapler.Snap (carpet) stapler.Push Pin.Hot glue gun.Awl (old screw driver sharpened to a point).Wire cutter.X-acto knife (hobby knife) (box opener).Scissors & Can Opener.Ruler (straight edge).Felt tip pen (any color).Needle nose pliers.Open end wrench (to fitwhatever size nuts you’ll use).Hand drill (1/4” works fine).Hole saw (2 different sizes - 2 3/4” & 1 5/8”).

Materials -

Aluminum Cans (beer, pop, soda, juice, etc) any 12 oz. size will work.Bottle caps.Corrugated Cardboard. Tape (any kind) & Glue (2-Part Epoxy works best).Mylar (Clear plastic).Copper Coated Welding Rod, Music Wire or any other straight wire .

(2 sizes - 1/16” & 3/32”)Hazel Nuts (Acorn Nuts, Cap Nuts, Toothpaste Caps).Screws, Nuts and Bolts.Wire clip (speed nut).

2

Using two hole saws (the larger one is 2 3/4” and the smaller one is 1 5/8”) cut twocircles from any kind of wood that is 3/4” thick. Soft Pine like that used to makewooden pallets works best. These two wooden circles will now become F-1 & F-2.

F-1 F-1F-2 F-2

Using a wood rasp (or similar tool) taper both F-1 & F-2 as shown above. The“Perfect” F-1 and F-2 would have the dimensions shown at left. But they don’thave to be perfect as long as F-1 DOES NOT EXCEED 2 1/2” in diameter. WorkF-1 down to a size (approx. a little less than 2 1/2” in diameter) that will allow it(once wrapped with can B-2C Step # 3 & # 7) to fit inside Can B-1 (Step # 8).

NOTE: You can also use a jigsaw or any other method at your disposalto obtain F-1 & F-2 as long as you end up with the same dimensions.

Cutting Cans

The building of these planes requires that both the Tops and/or Bottoms of beverage cansbe cut off. While you can decide for yourself which method you use to accomplish this,most builders use a Dremal® Tool in a fashion similar to that shown above. TheDremal® is secured to a board with the use of a hose clamp. Two guide rails are used tocradle the can. A cutting wheel is used to cut the Bottom of the can off first, and then theTop is cut off. Again, you can use any other method at your disposal to remove the Topsand Bottoms of the cans. Use whatever means you feel most comfortable with.

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The Taper is at 10°

WHEN MAKING THE HELICOPTER YOU WILL ONLY NEED F-1

Cutting CansThe building of these planes requires that the Tops and/or Bottoms of beverage cans becut off. While you can decide for yourself which method you use to accomplish this,most builders use a Dremal® Tool in a fashion similar to that shown below.

SEE ALL THE BUILDERS TIPS ON-LINE AT > www.bcair.com/BT

What I’ve done here is taken a piece ofboard wood (aprox 12” x 15” x 3/4”) and toit I’ve attached (screw or glue) Two Blocksof wood (2” x 2” x 5”) and Two Rails ofwood (1” x 1” x 10”)

Using a Hose Clamp, I’ve secured myDremal® Tool to the board. The twoguide rails are used to cradle the can.

A cutting wheel is used to cut theBottom and the Top off the Cans.

Again, you can use any other method at your disposal to remove the Tops and Bottoms ofthe cans. Use whatever means you feel most comfortable with.ALWAYS USE PROTECTIVE HAND & EYE GEAR WHEN CUTTING CANS!

In ALL cases, cutthe Bottom off theCan FIRST, thencut the Top off.Get as much of theCan as possible.

Another Way Of Cutting Cans

Once you’ve selected which Cans your plane will be made out of, take one Can and hold it firmly atit’s bottom. Using your wire snips, cut through the ring at the top of the Can.

Now grab the ring with your wire snips and PULL the top off the Can. The top will normally tare offright where the Can begins to taper inward to the ring.

Continue PULLING until the top of the Can comes off. Then cut down the side of the Can with yourscissors. Next use a smaller scissor to cut the bottom off the Can.

Use a straight edge, or a papercutter to trim the edges smooth.

Trim Can to 3 5/8” x 8 1/4”

SEE ALL THE BUILDERS TIPS ON-LINE AT > www.bcair.com/BT

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1”

STEP # 2

Take a piece of 3/32” rod 16 1/2” longand bend it as shown for the MainRotor Rod (MRR). Epoxy the MRRand the Counter Balance Rods (CBR),which are each 3/32” rod 2 1/2” long,to a 1” Flat Metal Washer (FMW) asshown.

STEP # 3Epoxy a second FMWon top of the MRR andCBR. Be sure the holesin the FMW’s align.You can insert the 8/324” Machine Screw(MS) through the holesin the FMW’s andthread an 8/32 nut on as shown, to keep everything tight until

the epoxy dries. Then REMOVE the nut & MS.

STEP # 4Bend 1 Can (from Step # 8) around each sideof the MRR and epoxy in place.

Use cloth pins to hold in placeuntil epoxy is dry.

STEP # 5When the Cans are secure to theMRR trim as shown and tip theends of the CBR’s with a pieceof Can as shown.

STEP # 6

Thread a 8/32 nut onto the MS andRe-insert the MS through theFMW’s. Thread a second and athird 8/32 nut onto MS as shown.Set Main Rotor aside until Step # 29.

TEMPLATE # 1

Center TOP

Center Bottom

To F

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Holes A

Holes B

Hole C

Slit 1

Slit 2

Slit 3

Slit 4

Slit 5

Slit 6

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TOP Center LineHoles E

Mark A

Helo Backbone HBB

Mark B

Remove the Pull Tab from one of the Cans you’regoing to use to make your Helo and cut the bottom offas shown here.

Put a 3/32” hole in the center of the littlebutton, used to hold the pull tab in place,on the top of the Can. This is hole “D”.

This Can will become B-1.

Remove the Pull Tabs and cutthe tops and bottoms off 6additional Cans and open themup as shown here.

STEP # 7

STEP # 8

STEP # 9

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HBB

HBB

Holes E

Take one Can from Step # 8and cut Template # 2 HBBfrom it. Staple F-1 to HBBas shown.

F-1

F-1

B-1

STEP # 10

STEP # 7

HBB

HBB

Mark A Mark B

Staple

Staple

Staple

Staple

Wrap HBB around F-1 and staple as shown.

F-1

Trim off excess Can.

This will now become B-2.

B-2

B-2

B-2

B-2

B-1

B-1

B-1

B-1 B-1

B-2

STEP # 11

Insert B-2 into B-1and secure withthree (3) staples asshown.

Staples

Staples

Side View

Top View

Bottom View

STEP # 12

Insert a 1/8” rod 5-6” long through Holes E in B-2 and slideTemplate # 1 over B-1. Align the TOP of Template # 1perpendicular to the 1/8” rod in B-2 as shown.(Remove the Rod when everything is lined up).

The back of Template # 1 isflush with the back of B-1.

Holes E

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STEP # 13

Using your Push Pins,make Holes A & B in B-1

STEP # 14

Using your X-Acto Knife,make Slits 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 & 6and again using your PushPin, make Hole C

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C.

A

B

STEP # 15

Cut Template # 3 from one of the Cans fromStep # 8 and staple as shown. Tab goes in theINSIDE.

VS

TC

Template # 3

TAB

Staples

Staples

Staples

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STEP # 16

Remove this page and the next page, from the booklet,and tape them together. Be sure to line up A with A and Bwith B.

Take a piece of 3/32” rod 18” long and bend it to theshape shown here.

This will be the Tail Rotor Rod (TRR).

Remove this page and the previous page, from the booklet, and tape them together.Be sure to line up A with A and B with B.

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STEP # 17

Thread the TRR into the VS, through the TC, into the back endof B-2, through the pilot hole in F-1, through B-1 and out throughHole D in the front of B-1

VS

VS

VS

VS

TRR

TRR

TRR

TC

TC

TC

B-2

B-2

B-1

B-1TRR

Draw the TC OVER the back end of B-2 andpull the TRR snug within the body of theHelicopter.

Add a lead weight to the TRR where it comesout of Hole D and hold in place with a wireclip (Speed Nut). Cut off excess TRR.

Epoxy an 8/32 nut ontothe TRR as shown.

STEP # 18

Take four (4) “Spade” Electrical Terminals (ET) #8-10 Stud andremove the plastic sheaths. Insert a piece of 3/32 Rod into theET’s and bend them around the LS as shown.

ET ET

LS

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STEP # 193 3/4”

6”

1”

2 3/4”

Take a piece of corrugated cardboard7” x 8” and on it draw two (2) parallellines 6” long and 3 3/4” apart. From theTop of your 6” line, make a mark 1”down and from that mark make anothermark 2 3/4” down. Tape your LandingSkids (LS) on the 6” lines with the ET’son the marks as shown.

ET

LS

STEP # 20Insert your selected LG throughHoles A & B in B-1.

Apply epoxy to the inside of theET’s and insert the LG.

Working through the drink hole in thefront of B-1, apply epoxy to the LGand INSIDE wall of B-1.

A B

B-1

B-1

LG

ETET

(To MatchHole C in B-1)

Template # 4

Template # 5 12

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STEP # 21

Trim Nose Cone, paint ifdesired, and epoxy to thefront of B-1.

B-1

B-1

B-1B-2

STEP # 22Make Two (2) 1/4” holes in theapproximate location shown atleft. Exact position is not criticalas they are only for the purpose ofanchoring the Engine (Step # 25 )to B-1.

Hole “C”

STEP # 23

Cut Template # 4 (C) from one of theCans from Step # 8 and insert Tab 3into Slit 3, Tab 4 into Slit 4, Tab 5 intoSlit 5 and Tab 6 into Slit 6 in B-1. Usemasking tape to hold C in place.

STEP # 24Cut Template # 5 (W) from one of the Cans fromStep # 8 and insert Tab 1 into Slit 1 and Tab 2 intoSlit 2 in B-1. Use masking tape to hold W in place.

STEP # 25

Working through the opening in the back of C,apply epoxy to the INSIDE of C and W whereit meets B-1 and the Nose Cone.B-1

B-2

C

NOTE: Adding a small amount of Saw Dustto the epoxy will give it more body.

STEP # 26

Use a small plastic cocktailbottle as the Engine, and putTWO (2) 1/4” holes in theapproximate location shown atRight. Exact position is notcritical as they’re only for thepurpose of anchoring theEngine to B-1.

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STEP # 26

Apply epoxy to the sides of the plastic bottle and insert itinto the back opening of C. DO NOT OBSCUREHOLES C IN “C” OR “B-1”. Squeeze the sides of Ctogether, against the bottle, and staple where shown.

Staples

Staple

STEP # 28

Use Duct Tape, or Plastic Tape, to outline theWindshield Frame.

NOTE: Stick your Tape to a piece of glassand use a straight edge to cut it to the desiredwidth.

Hole CBottom of bottle.

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STEP # 29Install the Tail Rotor onto the Rotor Shaft, cut off excessshaft, and hold in place with an Acorn Nut.

Enlarge Holes E to 3/32” and insert the Horizontal StabilizerRod Epoxy the Horizontal Stabilizers to the rod..

Apply epoxy to the Main Rotor screw and insert it into HoleC at the TOP of C and down into Hole C in B-1.

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