watch journal 201212

™

power Four spring barrels provide extraordinary power reserve in this new manufacture movement.

technique Impeccable finishing and an open tourbillon display the maker’s legendary know-how.

heritage Elements of the dial take inspiration from historical Vacheron Constantin pocket watches.

12: 2012 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O m THe WATCH mAgAziNe RedefiNed[ j o u r n a l ]

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V A C H e R O N C O N s T A N T i N P A T R i m O N y T R A d i T i O N N e L L e 1 4 - d A y T O U R b i L L O N

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DIOR VIII GRAND BAL “RÉSILLE” MODELHIGH-TECH CERAMIC TIMEPIECE.

DIAMOND-HEAD CERAMIC BRACELET.EXCLUSIVE “DIOR INVERSÉ” AUTOMATIC CALIBRE.

PATENTED FUNCTIONAL OSCILLATING WEIGHT, PLACED ON THE DIAL, IN 22 CARAT OPENWORK GOLD SET

WITH 182 DIAMONDS.42-HOUR POWER RESERVE.

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DIOR VIII GRAND BAL “RÉSILLE” MODELHIGH-TECH CERAMIC TIMEPIECE.

DIAMOND-HEAD CERAMIC BRACELET.EXCLUSIVE “DIOR INVERSÉ” AUTOMATIC CALIBRE.

PATENTED FUNCTIONAL OSCILLATING WEIGHT, PLACED ON THE DIAL, IN 22 CARAT OPENWORK GOLD SET

WITH 182 DIAMONDS.42-HOUR POWER RESERVE.

WJ20_dior_1008_ee.indd 3 10/8/12 4:11 PM

INSIDE070

SOUND INVESTMENTGeneva Sound System Model XXL

082UPON REQUESTPiaget Polo Tourbillon Relatif New York

WHAT’S

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INSIDE098

GIFT GURUVacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Kalla Haute Couture à Pampilles

060

NEXT TRIUMPH The Bonneville T100 anniversary limited edition

HAUTE STYLESDior VIII Grand Bal Haute Couture124

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THE RALPH LAUREN STIRRUP WATCH18K ROSE GOLD LARGE MODEL. MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT. SELF-WINDING CHRONOGRAPH.

261 COMPONENTS, 48-HOUR POWER RESERVE. SWISS MADE.

FOR PRIVATE APPOINTMENTS: 212.606.2100

RALPHLAURENWATCHES.COM





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QUICK READST H E W A T C H M A G A Z I N E R E D E F I N E D

12:2012 WATCHJOURNAL.COM

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INDUSTRY WATCHThe inside track from the world of watches—the brands, the business, the industry as a whole.+

MILUSThese new cuff links let you wear your love of mechanical watches on your shirtsleeve.

URWERKThis maker's latest mechanical masterpiece evaluates your winding performance.

LUXEFINDERWatch Journal brings together top products from every corner of the luxury market.

+++

+

EVENT WATCHWho’s doing what, where and why: Discover how the watch industry infl uences events, philanthropy and celebrities.

RAYFISHBio-engineering your own stingray guarantees a unique pair of sneakers.

GUCCIGucci uses a logo it originated in the 1960s to make its mark on a new collection of watches for men and women.

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Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-day Tourbillon Calibre 2260

18K 5N pink gold, Silvered opaline dial,

Hallmark of Geneva, Hand-wound mechanical movement,

Tourbillon, Ø 42 mm

Réf. 89000/000R-9655

Hallmark of Geneva, Hand-wound mechanical movement,

In 1839, Vacheron Constantin created the famous pantograph, a mechanical device allowing for principal watchmaking components to be reproduced with total precision. Elevating the quality of its timepieces even further, this invention, which also revolutionized Swiss watchmaking, would propel the brand into the future.

Faithful to the history upon which its reputation is built, Vacheron Constantin endeavours to maintain, repair and restore all watches it has produced since its founding: a sign of excellence and confidence, which continues to elevate the brand’s name and stature.

WJ20_vacheron_1004_ee.indd 1 10/4/12 3:38 PM

FEATUREST H E W A T C H M A G A Z I N E R E D E F I N E D


+

NO LIMITSLearn how watchmakers cater to customers seeking one-of-a-kind timepieces.

STORIED PASTVacheron Constantin perpetuates patrimony by creating the classics of the future.

BEARING REPETITIONWhy the minute repeater surpasses the tourbillon as the most prodigious of complications.

110090082

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SECONDS OPINIONExperts weigh in on non-stop chronograph use.

DRESSED FOR SUCCESSDior's couture ambitions spur horological innovation.

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SEASON OF GIVINGSuggestions for holiday gift-giving for him and for her.

WJ20_TOC.indd 10 10/18/12 1:57 PM

Advertiser: Panerai

Ad: Radiomir Ceramica PAM384

Publication: Watch Journal

Issue: November 2012

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Trim: 9.25" x 11.75"

Safety: 8.5" x 11"

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+

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ON THE COVERThe Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-day Tourbillon

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0785 MINUTES WITHActress Li Bingbing, page 78, and American soccer star Hope Solo, page 80.

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DEPARTMENTST H E W A T C H M A G A Z I N E R E D E F I N E D


OPTIMIZING PRECISIONF.P. Journe's new constant-force remontoir and bi-axial escapement.

+ +

NEW ICONBulgari aims for stylish simplicity and gets it exactly right.

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Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire. Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 381.the Dual-Wing concept is a genuine horological revolution featuring two distinct mechanisms synchronised by a single regulating organ. the patented jumping stop-seconds function enables time-setting to the nearest 1/6th of a second.

You Deserve a reaL WatCH.

tWo Hearts. reaL preCision.

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+PUBLISHER’S LETTER

T H E W A T C H M A G A Z I N E R E D E F I N E D12:2012 WATCHJOURNAL.COM

016 12:2012 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O M

As I write this, although it is winding down, America’s presi-dential election is still a month away. I don’t know the outcome. However, I do know two things: whoever the president is, he will have a limited amount of time to make his mark on history, and, as he endeavors to do that, he will likely take his seat in the Oval O�ce behind a desk with a remarkably evocative name.

The Resolute Desk, a fixture in the White House for many years, was built from the timbers of a British exploration ship abandoned in the Arctic in 1854 when it and several others in its fleet became mired in ice. A year later, the HMS Resolute was discovered drifting in the North Atlantic by the New England whaler George Henry, whereupon the whaler’s captain, James M. Buddington, and part of his crew boarded the derelict ship and sailed it home to be salvaged. The US Congress purchased the ship, and, following a complete refitting by the US Navy, the Resolute was returned to Queen Victoria in 1856 as a gesture of goodwill.

The Resolute never returned to active service, but it lived on in another way. In 1878, the queen ordered several desks to be built from the ship’s remains. In 1880, one of these, an ornately carved, 1,300-pound oak desk, was presented to

President Rutherford B. Hayes. Another relic of the Resolute is her bulkhead clock, created by Dent, the famous maker of London’s Big Ben. Now in the collection of the Vancouver Maritime Museum, the clock stands as another powerful symbol of time and endurance.

It’s my hope that whoever sits at the Resolute Desk for the next four years will honor its long and storied history. It has served many presidents since Hayes, and, with care, it may serve many more to come. He should also realize

that while the Resolute lives on indefinitely—in this desk and in the Dent clock—presidential terms are relatively brief. For the American president, there is no time to waste.

So, Mr. President, please stand up, take command of our ship and be resolute in your actions, every hour and every day of your presidency, to improve this country for Americans today and for generations to come. Your window of opportunity will begin closing on the day you’re sworn into office. You’ll have 1,461 days to get the job done, and the clock will be ticking.

—Glen. B. Bowen p u b l i s h e r

STAND UP

AP

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WILL THE AMERICAN PRESIDENT PLEASE

“ While the Resolute lives on indefinitely, presidential terms are relatively brief.”

The Resolute Desk

PubLetter_WJ20.indd 16 10/16/12 2:44 PM

SHOP ONLINE AT WWW.PIAGET.COM

1-877-8PIAGET

Piaget Manufacture movement 880PMechanical self-winding chronographFlyback, dual time100 meter water resistantTitanium with black ADLC treatmentSapphire case-back, rubber strap

WJ20_piaget_1003_ee.indd 1 10/3/12 6:07 PM

+LETTER FROM SWITZERLAND

T H E W A T C H M A G A Z I N E R E D E F I N E D12:2012 WATCHJOURNAL.COM


AND THE WORLD OF WATCHESDo you wear your watch on your right wrist or on your left? Face up or face down? And why? I am fascinated by the reasons for how we wear our watches. Once, when I was in Naples, Italy, I noticed that almost everyone wore their watches on their right wrists. When I asked my host about this, he smiled and explained that locals in the seaside city liked to drive with their windows down and their left arms out the windows. But thieves were stealing the watches right o� people’s wrists! So the Napolitani started wearing their watches on their right wrists, which stayed inside the car.

What about straps? Do you prefer leather or rubber straps or metal bracelets? I’ve only had a few metal bracelet watches, so I guess I’m a strap man. In most cases, leather is my strap of choice, but for sports watches, I prefer rubber for its water-resistance.

Quartz or mechanical? Mechanical watches are amazing engines we can carry on our wrists, but there’s no denying the convenience and precision of quartz technology. Most watch lovers have worn both quartz and mechanical watches, but the mechanical watches are the ones with soul. I own both kinds, but my mechanical watches far outnumber my quartz.

Simple timekeeping or complicated functions? There’s something to be said for an incredible com-plicated watch and all the work that goes into it, but a classic three-hand timekeeper is both tried and true and elegant at the same time.

Wrist or pocket? Pocket watches are coming back into vogue, and there are several convertible watches that transform from a wristwatch to a pocket watch and even to a table clock. Very cool, and the perfect timepieces for some.

Whimsical or serious? I love watches that make me smile. It might be a Mickey Mouse watch, a watch with silver bullets on the dial to ward o� werewolves, a poetic complication or a fun, colorful timepiece.

One of the greatest things about watches is their infinite variety. We aren’t limited to just one watch; the choices are legion, and we can wear them any way we wish. No matter who you are, where you are going or what you are doing today, rest assured there is a watch that is perfect for your particular activities. And for you.

—Keith W. Strandberg i n t e r n a t i o n a l e d i t o r

PERSONAL

“ One of the greatest things about watches is their infinite variety.”

PREFERENCE

Keith_letter_WJ20.indd 18 10/16/12 11:09 AM

IWC. Engineered for men.

Mechanical chronograph movement | Self-winding | 68-hour power

reserve when fully wound | Stopwatch function with hours, minutes

and seconds | Hour and minute counters

combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock |

Flyback function | Small hacking seconds |

Perpetual calendar (figure) | Large double-

digit displays for both the date and month |

Leap year display | Screw-in crown | Sapphire glass,

convex, antireflective coating on both sides | Water-resistant 6 bar

Spitfire Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month. Ref. 3791: In the days when the Spitfire conquered the skies, there was no

shortage of heroes. And where there were heroes, there were bad guys, too. Anyone up there without a wingman could only rely on his instincts – and his IWC. Today, the

IWC Spitfire Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month comes with up to 68 hours power reserve and a glass secured against

drops in air pressure, all designed to give pilots a feeling of security. Which thanksto the per petual calendar will last for centuries to come. IWC. Engineered for men.

Exactly what I need!

WJ20_IWC_1003_ee.indd 1 10/3/12 5:38 PM

C H I E F C R E A T I V E O F F I C E R Yolanda Yoh Bucher C H I E F O P E R A T I N G O F F I C E R , C H I E F F I N A N C I A L O F F I C E R Christopher Fabian

C O R P O R A T E M A N A G I N G E D I T O R Pamela Lerner Jaccarino V I C E P R E S I D E N T O F S A L E S A N D G R O U P P U B L I S H E R Michael J. Ruskin V I C E P R E S I D E N T B U S I N E S S D E V E L O P M E N T , S T R A T E G I C P A R T N E R S H I P S Jacqueline Bicknell E X E C U T I V E V I C E P R E S I D E N T O F I N F O R M A T I O N T E C H N O L O G Y Juan Lopez V I C E P R E S I D E N T O F I N F O R M AT I O N T E C H N O L O G Y Jesus Sardinas V I C E P R E S I D E N T O F W E B T E C H N O L O G Y Christopher Coleman D I R E C T O R O F S O F T W A R E E N G I N E E R I N G Emmanuel Crouvisier D I R E C T O R O F M A N U F A C T U R I N G A N D D I S T R I B U T I O N Fern E. Meshulam V I C E P R E S I D E N T O F D I G I T A L A U D I E N C E M A R K E T I N G John Rockwell S E N I O R D I R E C T O R O F A U D I E N C E M A R K E T I N G Katharine Tucker D I R E C T O R O F A U D I E N C E M A R K E T I N G Jeffrey Rovner D I R E C T O R O F D I G I T A L M A R K E T I N G Meredith King D I R E C T O R O F F I N A N C E A N D A C C O U N T I N G Andrea Efland C O N T R O L L E R Barbara Mabie A C C O U N T I N G M A N A G E R S Kristen Delisio, Raquel Howell, David Wulk A C C O U N T S P A Y A B L E M A N A G E R S Shirley Cruz, Shannon Kavanagh, Sherry Chelchowski C O L L E C T I O N S M A N A G E R S Karen �eierl, Erick Hernand, David Nunez A C C O U N T S R E C E I V A B L E Emel Emin, Kristy Kilian S T A F F A C C O U N T A N T Kristen Hitchcock D I R E C T O R O F H U M A N R E S O U R C E S Lisa Silver Faber H U M A N R E S O U R C E S S P E C I A L I S T Ashley Akins B U S I N E S S D E V E L O P M E N T M A N A G E R Monica Del Borrello S E N I O R D E V E L O P E R James Pyrich D E V E L O P E R S Michael Lewis, Justin McCauliffe D A T A B A S E A D M I N I S T R A T O R Jeffery Forrester S E N I O R F I E L D E N G I N E E R James Donnelly A S S I S T A N T T O T H E C E O Stephanie Brady A S S I S T A N T T O T H E C O O / C F O Kathy Lewis O P E R A T I O N S M A N A G E R Rick Jacobs

D I S T R I B U T I O N S E R V I C E S M A N A G E R Selene Ceballo D I S T R I B U T I O N S E R V I C E S C O O R D I N A T O R Alexander R. Cruz O P E R A T I O N S Tamas Szakal A D M I N I S T R A T I O N Jessica Gonzalez, Enrique Ruiz, Maritza Severino P R I N T C E N T E R D I R E C T O R Bart Blackwell D I G I T A L P R I N T C E N T E R M A N A G E R Christopher Ferris N E W S S T A N D C O N S U L T A N T Ron Sklon

3 7 3 1 N W 8 T H A V E N U EB O C A R A T O N , F L 3 3 4 3 1

561.750.0151

3 6 0 P A R K A V E N U E S O U T H17TH FLOOR,NEW YORK, NY 10010

646.805.0200

D E S I G N D I R E C T O R Dean Sebring A R T D I R E C T O R S Valerie Sebring, Michael Shavalier, Pam Shavalier S E N I O R D E S I G N E R Alvaro Diaz-Rubio EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Marie A. Picon I N T E R N A T I O N A L E D I T O R Keith W. Strandberg C O N T R I B U T I N G E D I T O R Elizabeth Ritter C O P Y C H I E F Leann Harms S E N I O R A D V E R T I S I N G P R O D U C T I O N D E S I G N E R Svetlana G. Suarez P H O T O R E T O U C H E R S Chris Ablan, Michael Dobias, Michael Warnock P R E P R E S S S P E C I A L I S T Eric Espada M A R K E T I N G M A N A G E R Hayley Merrill T R A F F I C M A N A G E R Melissa C. Quiñones T R A F F I C C O O R D I N A T O R Jody M. Boyle E D I T O R I A L C O O R D I N A T O R Kay Hodgdon J U N I O R P H O T O E D I T O R Kelly Ozog D I R E C T O R O F C L I E N T S E R V I C E S Tanya Suber C O N T R I B U T O R Laurie Kahle

Adam I. Sandow CHAIRMAN AND CEO

Glen B. Bowen PUBLISHER AND EDITOR IN CHIEF

Watch Journal™ [ISSN 1096-3839] is published bimonthly. Watch Journal™ is a registered trademark of InSync Media Group, a subsidiary of Sandow Media LLC. Copyright 2012, InSync Media Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction or transmission in whole or in part in any form or by any means without written permission is prohibited. Opinions expressed in Watch Journal™ are not necessarily those of the publisher. Watch Journal™ , InSync Media Group, Sandow Media LLC, its affiliates, employees, contributors, writers, editors and publisher accept no responsibility for inaccuracies, errors or omissions in the information and/or advertisements contained herein. The publisher assumes no responsibility for the claims made by advertisers or the merits of products or services advertised or promoted in Watch Journal™ . The publisher makes no representations or warranties of any kind, expressed or implied, as to the information, services, contents, trademarks, patents, materials or products included in this magazine. Advertisers and their agencies assume all liability for advertising content. All images reproduced in Watch Journal™ have been accepted by the publisher on the condition that such images are reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the photographer and/or other creator and the subject. As such, the publisher is not responsible for any infringement of the copyright or otherwise arising from any publication in Watch Journal™ . Printed in the USA.

W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O M

[ J O U R N A L ] ™

THE WATCH MAGAZINE REDEFINED

S A N D O W M E D I A . C O M

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CLIENT: VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

JOB NO.: 10069354

SPACE UNIT: PGB 4CB (B: 9.75” W x 12.25 H; T: 9.25” W x 11.75” H; L: 8.25” W x 10.75” H)

PUBLICATIONS: WATCH JOURNAL - NOVEMBER 2012

APPROVED DATE TRAFFIC/PROOF READER PRODUCTION SUPERVISOR DIRECTOR PRINT SERVICES ART DIRECTOR COPYWRITER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE ACCOUNT SUPERVISOR MANAGEMENT SUPERVISOR CREATIVE DIRECTOR CLIENT

Date Created: 10/02/12 Artist: cleon

Proof: 01 Page: 01

Date Revised: Artist:

ART FILE NAME MECH SCALE EFFECTIVE RESOLUTION VCA_Pont_Amoureux_SP_DP.tif 44.5% 674 dpi VCA_R.ai 66.3% Illustrator eps

PRINTED AT 84.62%

1 dag hammarskjold plazanew york, ny 10017-2205212.832.3800www.avrettfreeginsberg.com

www.vancleefarpels.com - 877-VAN-CLEEF

Idyllic Pont des AmoureuxPoetic Complications watch, white gold, diamonds, “contre-jour” enamel, mechanical movement with retrograde hours and minutes.

Haute Joaillerie, place Vendôme since 1906

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Embrace an incredible worldThe only Manufacture to be 100% Poinçon de Genève certified. The most demanding signature in fine watchmaking.Visit us at rogerdubuis.com - 1-888-RDUBUIS

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Embrace an incredible worldThe only Manufacture to be 100% Poinçon de Genève certified. The most demanding signature in fine watchmaking.Visit us at rogerdubuis.com - 1-888-RDUBUIS

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0.0000000024 HP.

No more power is needed to drive the newly developed CFB A1001 movement, manufactured in-house by Carl F. Bucherer. It features a peripheral rotor and is a seamless blend of consummate aesthetics and state-of-the-art technology. This mechanical microcosm is perfectly housed in the striking, unmistakably designed case of the Patravi EvoTec DayDate.

www.carl-f-bucherer.com

WJ20_carlfbucherer_1003_ee.indd 2 10/3/12 5:17 PM

0.0000000024 HP.

No more power is needed to drive the newly developed CFB A1001 movement, manufactured in-house by Carl F. Bucherer. It features a peripheral rotor and is a seamless blend of consummate aesthetics and state-of-the-art technology. This mechanical microcosm is perfectly housed in the striking, unmistakably designed case of the Patravi EvoTec DayDate.

www.carl-f-bucherer.com

WJ20_carlfbucherer_1003_ee.indd 3 10/3/12 5:17 PM

SLY LOOKAmerican movie icon Sylvester Stallone was spotted on red carpets in the UK and France wearing a Carl F. Bucherer Patravi TravelTec watch. The star was making the rounds of the European premieres of his summer film “The Expendables 2.” The ultra-functional triple time zone chronograph chro-nometer is a favorite of many world travelers. The 46.6-mm steel or rose gold watch uses its manufacturer’s exclusive Caliber CFB 1901 and empha-sizes ease of setting and reset-ting with a mechanism that moves the hour hand and the date either forward or backward without stopping the watch. The rose gold version worn by Stallone is priced at $44,000.800.395.4306, carl-f-bucherer.com

AMERICAN MODELBaume & Mercier has intro-duced its first US limited edition men’s timepiece. The Capeland 10088 automatic flyback chronograph is limited to 250 pieces and features a copper-colored dial that sets it apart from other watches in the

Capeland collection. Priced at $7,900, the watch will be available exclusively at select Tourneau stores nationwide. “The Capeland has quickly become a bestselling collection for Baume & Mercier, so it made sense to create a limited edition reference available at one of our finest retail partners, Tourneau. This unique timepiece is the ideal holiday gift for the discern-ing watch collector and fan of Baume & Mercier,” states Rudy

Chavez, president of Baume & Mercier North America.212.593.0444, baume-and-mercier.com

MILITARY MIGHTBell & Ross’ annual fête in Paris was particularly special this year. Not only did the brand present two watches inspired by military aviation history—the Vintage WW1 Chronographe Monopoussoir and the WW2 Régulateur Héritage—but the crowd of 500 guests also wit-nessed Bell & Ross CEO Carlos Rosillo receive the commenda-tion of Knight of the French

Legion of Honor from General Christian Baptiste, director of the Musée de l’Armée. The Hôtel National des Invalides, an emblematic military site full of history, was the perfect venue for the memorable eve-

ning. Guests with a passion for timepieces, including influ-ential media figures, profes-

sional pilots, politicians, watch industry leaders and represen-tatives of the military, enjoyed cognac, cigars and live jazz.888.307.7887, bellross.com

STRATEGIC MOVESwiss luxury watchmaker Bovet has entered into a strategic partnership with DKSH, the leading market expansion ser-vices provider with a focus on Asia. DKSH becomes a 20-per-cent shareholder in Bovet and its manufacturing arm, Dimier, and assumes responsibility for marketing, sales and service of Bovet products in Asia. “Today, the Asia Pacific region is the biggest market for Swiss luxury timepieces,” says Pascal Ra¦y, owner of Bovet and Dimier. “We see DKSH as the ideal partner for professionally marketing our pre-mium timepieces in the growing Asian markets.” Headquartered in Zurich, DKSH is listed on the SIX Swiss Exchange.888.909.1822, bovet.com

+INDUSTRY WATCH

WATCH REPORT | NEWS AND HAPPENINGS FROM THE WORLD OF WATCHES

SYLVESTER STALLONE: wearing a Carl F. Bucherer Patravi TravelTec GMT (right)


Carlos Rosillo, center, honored in Paris The Hôtel National des Invalides

+

Industry_Watch_0928.indd 26 10/17/12 5:02 PM

MONTBLANC NICOLAS RIEUSSEC CHRONOGRAPH OPEN HOME TIME

As beautiful for what it reveals as for what it hides, this timepiece pays homage to the man who invented the chronograph. The characteristic Rieussec chronograph measures the time with its two turning discs complemented by a third turning disc indicating the home time. The new self-winding manufacture movement makes the three discs interplay possible. Monopusher chronograph, 60 sec and 30 min rotating disc counters, home time disc with day and night display. Crafted in the Montblanc Manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland.

This advertisement was prepared by:ATLAS PRINT SOLUTIONS

Client: MontblancCreative: R OHT Steel

MBAW-354Mechanical Size:

Bleed: 9.75’’ x 12.25’’Trim: 9.25’’ x 11.75’’

Color: 4CInsertion Date: Nov/Dec 2012

Publication: Watch Journal Magazine

modesto, ca • 209-522-7390reno, nv • 775-853-3997

B:12.25 in

B:9.75 in

T:11.75 in

T:9.25 in

S:10.75 inS:8.25 in

WJ20_montblanc_1003_ee.indd 1 10/3/12 6:02 PM

BRITISH AMBASSADORGraham London has forged a part-nership with young English cricketer Steven Finn, who is said to represent the future of the quintes-sentially English sport. Tall, quick and a proven wicket taker, Finn bowls in excess of 90 mph and has recently exploded onto the international cricket scene. Now Graham London counts him among its brand ambassadors. Graham’s existence is a tribute to London clockmaker George Graham (1673–1751), one of the fathers of modern watchmaking, includ-ing chronograph mechanisms. Today, Graham London is a pri-vately owned Swiss watch com-pany that manufactures collec-tions of high-performance and muscular chronographs in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.213.622.1716, graham-london.com

PAIRING UPJust a few weeks before Victoria “Vika” Azarenka advanced to the fi nal round in the US Open ten-nis championship, the Citizen Watch Company signed her to a multiyear term as the newest international brand ambas-sador for its “Unstoppable” Citizen Eco-Drive media cam-

paign. Azarenka was the number-one player on the WTA tour and

entered this year’s US Open as the top seed, fresh from winning two Olympic med-als for her native Belarus. Azarenka’s determination,

acumen and style—as well as her on-court accomplish-

ments—make her the perfect representative of the brand’s “Unstoppable” message. Citizen of America president Je� rey Cohen comments, “Not only is Vika a proven champion in her sport, she is also a rising fashion icon as well as a power-ful and savvy businessperson. It is Vika’s unstoppable drive that

makes her the perfect Citizen Eco-Drive brand ambassador for consumers who relate both to her drive and her full range of talents.” Citizen’s involvement in the US Open is longstanding. The brand celebrated its 20th year as the o� cial watch of the US Open.800.321.3173, citizenwatch.com

HORSE SENSENow celebrating its 125th anniversary, Eberhard & Co. announced a partnership with horseman Rich Fellers, the reigning FEI World Cup champion and a member of the US equestrian team. During the London Olympic Games, Fellers represented the US in show jumping with the horse named Flexible and advanced to the fi nal round after four days of intense competition, fi nish-ing eighth. Eberhard & Co. has always believed in the pursuit of quality, so the brand is hon-ored to associate itself with a horseman of Fellers’ caliber. The brand will support Fellers and Flexible as they prepare for international competitions to come. Fans can follow Fellers’ career on the Eberhard & Co. Facebook page.603.206.5195, eberhard-co-watches.ch

+INDUSTRY WATCH


STEVEN FINN: Cricket’s rising star

02812:2012 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O M

Rich Fellers, sponsored by Eberhard & Co.

Azarenka with Citizen’s Jeffrey Cohen

said to represent the future of the quintes-sentially English sport. Tall, quick and a proven wicket taker, Finn bowls in excess of 90 mph and has recently exploded onto the international cricket scene. Now Graham London counts him among its brand ambassadors. Graham’s existence is a tribute to London

entered this year’s US Open as the top seed, fresh from winning two Olympic med-als for her native Belarus. Azarenka’s determination,

acumen and style—as well as her on-court accomplish-

ments—make her the perfect representative of the brand’s “Unstoppable” message. Citizen of America president Je� rey Cohen comments, “Not only is Vika a proven champion in her sport, she is also a rising fashion icon as well as a power-ful and savvy businessperson. It is Vika’s unstoppable drive that

+

Graham London’s Chronofi ghter Oversize Diver Turbo Tech


LONDON ADDRESSFor nearly a century, Harry Winston’s exquisite jewelry designs have inspired con-noisseurs. Now the legendary international luxury brand and “jeweler to the stars” opens its second London retail salon inside the world-renowned fi ne jewelry room of Harrods depart-ment store. The opening marks Harry Winston’s 27th location and is part of the company’s global retail expansion strat-egy. Designed in partnership with award-winning Studio Sofi eld, Inc., of New York, the 631-square-foot salon refl ects a modern variation on Winston’s traditional style. A soft taupe and grey color palette comple-ments the custom-designed

black lacquer and antiqued bronze furniture and display vitrines. Commenting on the opening, Harry Winston’s president and CEO, Frédéric de Narp, says, “As one of the great international cities, London is a critical part of our retail growth. With the opening of our newest location at Harrods, the luxury window to the world, we are thrilled to be able to showcase our creations in such an excep-tional setting.” According to Annalise Quest, Harrods’ gener-al manager for fi ne jewelry and beauty, the opening cements Harrods’ reputation as the ulti-mate destination for fi ne jewelry and high horology.800.988.4110, harrywinston.com

JOINING THE MOVEMENTSwiss collaborative design lab MB&F announced in late August that Alexandre David, formerly CEO of Ikepod, and Hervé Estienne, formerly with Jaeger-LeCoultre, have come into the fold. David has been appointed chief commercial o� cer for MB&F, charged with serving and developing the brand’s worldwide retail net-work, selectively opening a few

new retail accounts in key mar-kets. Estienne has become man-ager of the MAD Gallery, the brand’s fl agship concept store in Geneva, Switzerland.888.884.0838, mbandf.com

FAMILY TIMECelebrating 100 years as a family-owned and family-operated business, Hamilton Jewelers of Princeton, New Jersey, has embarked upon an exclusive partnership with Swiss watch brand Breitling to create the exclusive Chronomat 44 Hamilton 100th Edition. The

44-mm steel watch uses Breitling’s Caliber B01 manufacture movement,

featuring auto-matic winding, chronograph and calendar func-tions and more

than 70 hours of power reserve. Its

bright white dial has a special

tachymeter indicator and a chronograph

seconds hand in

+INDUSTRY WATCH


an exclusive partnership with Swiss watch brand Breitling to create the exclusive Chronomat 44 Hamilton 100th Edition. The

44-mm steel watch uses Breitling’s Caliber B01 manufacture movement,

chronograph and calendar func-tions and more

dial has a special tachymeter indicator and a chronograph

seconds hand in


ALEXANDRE DAVID AND HERVÉ ESTIENNE: new additions to the MB&F team

+

Harry Winston at Harrods

Breitling Chronomat 44

for Hamilton Jewelers


WJ20_gucci_1005_ee.indd 1 10/5/12 10:11 AM

the jeweler’s signature green. The caseback is engraved with Hamilton’s 100th anniversary logo. Only 30 examples will be produced. “Breitling is a venera-ble, family-owned brand that we are proud to have built a strong relationship with over the past 20 years,” says Hank B. Siegel, president and CEO of Hamilton Jewelers. “The Chronomat 44 Hamilton 100th Edition is truly representative of our fi rm’s dis-tinguished 100-year history and a culmination of the passion for fi ne timepieces that Breitling and Hamilton both share.” hamiltonjewelers.com

ACTING AMBASSADORMovado, a brand long associ-ated with the performing arts, has announced that actress Lily Collins has joined its roster of brand ambassadors. Collins made her fi lm debut in 2010’s Oscar-nominated fi lm “The Blind Side” and more recently

starred as Snow White in “Mirror, Mirror.” She is featured in Movado’s “Modern Ahead of Its Time” advertising campaign, which launched this fall. Collins says, “I have always been an admirer of Movado watches, and I am proud to represent a brand that is so historically rich and that is known for its philanthrop-

ic endeavors as well as its vari-ous collaborations with cutting-edge artists.” In the coming year, Collins will appear in at least three feature fi lms, including in the lead role of the forthcoming “The Mortal Instruments.”888.4.MOVADO, movado.com

WESTERN OUTPOSTSwiss watch manufacture Vacheron Constantin has opened its second boutique in North America. The Palazzo in Las Vegas is the home to the intimate and welcoming boutique, designed to convey the maker’s sophistication and refi nement. The Las Vegas loca-tion will o� er the entire range of collections from the Geneva-based manufacture as well as exclusive boutique models. Says Hugues de Pins, president of Vacheron Constantin North America, “This opening is another milestone in the brand’s worldwide expansion and allows us to provide an experience that will enhance customer under-standing of the brand and its longstanding history in haute

horlogerie.” The new boutique opened less than one year after the inauguration of the brand’s New York City boutique and is the 30th Vacheron Constantin boutique worldwide.855.729.1755,vacheron-constantin.com

COMING TO AMERICA German chronograph manu-facturer Hanhart has named Anthony Siragusa as its new North American distribution partner. With more than 14 years of industry experience, Siragusa has proven his ability to represent established brands and to introduce and grow new

+INDUSTRY WATCH


Watches by Romain Jerome


LILY COLLINS: Moved by Movado

+

Vacheron Constantin at

the Palazzo, Las Vegas Hanhart’s Thomas Morf, Anthony Siragusa and Tobias Bamert


WJ20_tagheuer_1003_ee.indd 1 10/3/12 6:17 PM

brands in the American market. Siragusa has launched several brands in the US, laying ground-work that continues to contrib-ute to their growth. Siragusa says, “As an avid watch collector and vintage car enthusiast, I can honestly say that Hanhart combines my two greatest inter-ests. I look forward to bringing Hanhart to North America.”714.453.1622, hanhart.com

PLACE YOUR BETSLuxury Swiss watch brand Slyde by HD3 placed a bet on the popularity of poker, as it became the ocial watch spon-sor of the ninth European Poker Tour. As part of the deal, Slyde committed to supply specially designed watches to the tour’s winners. Each of the six Main Event winners will receive a black and steel Slyde watch as part of their prize. In addition, the winner of the PokerStars.com and Monte-Carlo® Casino European Poker Tour Grand Final will receive a black and rose gold Slyde. Slyde watches combine traditional horological

themes with modern design and the latest touchscreen technol-ogy. They enable the user to generate an infinite number of personalized interfaces for a customized indication of the time. Watch designer Jorg Hysek, creator of the Slyde watch, welcomed the partner-ship, saying, “We are pleased to be aligning ourselves with a company with a similar focus on forward thinking and inno-vation. We are looking forward to awarding the Main Event winners with their watches and congratulating them on their success at the tables.”305.674.9670, hd3complication.com

Self-Reliance This August, Perrelet launched its long-awaited Alternance 10 (A10) caliber. The brand has

set its sights on equipping its entire range of watches with manufacture-made movements, and the creation of the A10, pro-duced entirely within the Festina Group, which Perrelet joined in 2004, is a major develop in that direction. The A10 uses an ecient new escapement and balance spring. It is produced in several variations, designed to support a broad range of addi-tional complications, including

Perrelet’s signature double rotor module. The first watch to use the A10 is the Peripheral Double Rotor. Perrelet CEO Fausto Salvi says, “Today more than ever, having in-house means of developing and producing horo-logical specialties represents a great opportunity. Production autonomy is an extremely important issue and an aspect that enables us to remain in the avant-garde of our field. The A10 movement represents a milestone achievement for us; we are well on the way toward complete independence.” 954.937.9180, perrelet.com

coRRection Watch Journal’s report of Marc A. Hayek’s win in the Blancpain Endurance Series, on page 122 of the October issue, errone-ously stated that the Blancpain Endurance Series is part of the Lamborghini Blancpain Super Trofeo. In fact, the two racing series are completely separate, except for their associations with Blancpain. Watch Journal regrets the error.

+inDUStRY WatcH


Watches by Romain Jerome


MIKALAI POBAL: winner of the EPT Barcelona with his Slyde watch

+

Slyde by HD3 watch

Perrelet’s new

A10 movement

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Sonata StreamlineSelf-winding. Patented manufacture movement

with Silicium technology and 24 hour alarm

and countdown. Titanium case with ceramic bezel.

Also available with 18ct gold bezel.

W W W. U LY S S E - N A R D I N . C O MF o r a c a t a l o g , c a l l 5 6 1 - 9 8 8 - 8 6 0 0 o r

u s a 1 3 @ u l y s s e - n a r d i n . c o m

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AUTHORIZED DEALERS

BEVERLY HILLS, CAWestime LA JOLLA, CAWestime LOS ANGELES, CAWestime

DENVER, COOster Jewelers GREENWICH, CTManfredi Jewels FORT LAUDERDALE, FLLevinson Jewelers MIAMI, FLVault

ENGLEWOOD, NJTimepiece Collection NEW YORK, NYCellini (Madison Av.)

NEW YORK, NYCellini (Waldorf Astoria H.)

SAN JUAN, PRClub Jibarito

ARUBA, WIGemani

ST. BARTH, WICarat

ST. MARTIN, WIBallerina

ST. THOMAS, WIRoyal Caribbean

www.giulianomazzuoli.com

WJ20_giulianomazzuoli_1016_ee.indd 2 10/16/12 2:31 PM

AUTHORIZED DEALERS

BEVERLY HILLS, CAWestime LA JOLLA, CAWestime LOS ANGELES, CAWestime

DENVER, COOster Jewelers GREENWICH, CTManfredi Jewels FORT LAUDERDALE, FLLevinson Jewelers MIAMI, FLVault

ENGLEWOOD, NJTimepiece Collection NEW YORK, NYCellini (Madison Av.)

NEW YORK, NYCellini (Waldorf Astoria H.)

SAN JUAN, PRClub Jibarito

ARUBA, WIGemani

ST. BARTH, WICarat

ST. MARTIN, WIBallerina

ST. THOMAS, WIRoyal Caribbean

www.giulianomazzuoli.com

WJ20_giulianomazzuoli_1016_ee.indd 3 10/16/12 2:31 PM

In comparison to any of the recent complicated timepieces from today’s Bulgari, the Octo is smaller (41.5 mm in diameter) and thinner (10.55 mm). Its namesake element is its octago-nal motif, which is carried from the case and dial right through to the lugs. Balance is seen in the use of large Roman numer-als at 6 and 12, and restraint can be noted in the simplicity of the remaining markers and the dial-matching white-on-black style of the modestly sized date display. A wide alligator strap tapers to-ward the buckle. “The Octo is a blend of Swiss watchmaking and Italian style,” notes Terreni. “It refl ects the bold, daring identity of the Bulgari brand.”

Bulgari has a long and storied history as a maker of high-end luxury jewelry. It has long attracted customers with strong personalities, interested in qual-ity and style. As the maker of Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta watches for the past three years, Bulgari has earned credibility in high-end watchmaking. But the customer remains largely the same. And, as trendsetters and infl uencers, the charis-matic people who wear Bulgari

watches are natural ambas-sadors for the brand. The new Octo is also an ambassador, ac-cording to Terreni. “We want to be an expression of today. We want to be ahead of the curve. The goal is to stand out, but in a tasteful way. So, the Octo is not over-designed. There is a balance of elements.”

So, the question is not really whether a prospective buyer likes the new Octo but whether he can wear it well. For prices that start at $9,500, you could do worse than own an Octo—if, that is, you have the presence to pull it o� .

bulgari.com

IN FOCUSEIGHT KINDS OF COOL | A LOOK AT BULGARI’S NEXT BIG THING

TEXT BY: MARIE A. PICON

+

Fresh o� the success of its impressively complicated Carillon Tourbillon, a grand complication wristwatch that quickly sold out, Bulgari has—at least momentarily—changed course in order to focus on creating something a bit less complicated. Sim-plicity is the stated goal, but it’s a deceptive one, because, as Guido Terreni, managing director of Bulgari’s timepiece division, notes, sometimes the most outwardly simple design is the most di¤ cult to do well. Apparently more than equal to this challenge, Bulgari has lavished the same sort of care, expertise and attention to detail on its new Octo three-hand wristwatch as it has on its most complex grand complications.


We want to be an expression of today. We want to be ahead of the curve.”— G U I D O T E R R E N I

“

blend of Swiss watchmaking and Italian style,” notes Terreni. “It refl ects the bold, daring identity of the Bulgari brand.”

Bulgari has a long and storied history as a maker of high-end luxury jewelry. It has long attracted customers with strong personalities, interested in qual-ity and style. As the maker of Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta watches for the past three years, Bulgari has earned credibility in high-end watchmaking. But the customer remains largely the same. And, as trendsetters and infl uencers, the charis-matic people who wear Bulgari

watches are natural ambas-sadors for the brand. The new Octo is also an ambassador, ac-cording to Terreni. “We want to be an expression of today. We want to be ahead of the curve. The goal is to stand out, but in a tasteful way. So, the Octo is not over-designed. There is a balance of elements.”

InFocus_Bulgari_1004.indd 40 10/16/12 3:53 PM

Although additional variations are likely in the future, the Octo debuts only in steel or rose gold versions and only with a black lacquer dial.

+

+

InFocus_Bulgari_1004.indd 41 10/16/12 11:14 AM

+IN FOCUS

CHRONOMÉTRE OPTIMUM | FOCUS ON PRECISION

The Chronomètre Optimum’s Caliber 1510 is a manual-winding movement produced in 18-karat rose gold (an F.P. Journe signature). Its ultra-lightweight titanium one-sec-ond remontoir provides an extra gear that is wound in short spurts by the mainspring. It then balances the driving force applied to the escapement, cre-ating constant force, and the es-capement ensures the balance’s isochronism. The constant-force remontoir also creates a nice byproduct, a natural dead-beat seconds function, which F.P. Journe cleverly displays on the back of the movement with the simple addition of a seconds ring and a small hand.

The watch’s free-sprung balance—which oscillates at a frequency of 21,600 bph (3 Hz)—is paired with the patented high-performance biaxial escape-ment, adjusted in six positions. The design of this pat-ented two-wheel direct-impulse escapement was inspired by Abraham-Louis Breguet’s highly e� cient “natu-ral” dual-wheel escapement. F.P. Journe created his escapement to function without oil, and it is the only direct-impulse escape-ment to start up on its own. In terms of output, this patented mechanism can go for 50 hours without loss of amplitude, much

better performance than the majority of escapements.

The 44-jewel movement, which comprises a total of 240 parts, is fi nished to an extraor-dinary level of detail. Featured

fi nishes include circular grain-ing on the base plate, Côtes de Genève on the bridges and pol-ished screw heads with cham-fered slots. Equal attention has been paid to the aesthetics of the dial, which reveals the wheel of the constant-force remontoir, along with o¡ -center hours and minutes, small seconds and power reserve indication.

Part of F.P. Journe’s Souveraine series, the new watch is o¡ ered in a 42-mm red gold or platinum case with a gold and silver dial ($84,210–$89,470). One glance at the dial, with its two-tone precious metal and o¡ -center displays, reveals this watch as an F.P. Journe creation. And the words “Remontoir d’Egalité avec Echappement BHP” remind all who view it exactly which masterpiece this is.

fpjourne.com

The newest creation from the Geneva workshops of F.P. Journe, the Chronomètre Optimum, is designed for precision. It brings together two patented mechanisms—a constant-force remontoir and a high-performance biaxial escapement (EBHP)—with double spring barrels and a balance hairspring with Phillips curve. These elements, together with the watch’s other components, contribute to making a timekeeper with 70-hour power reserve and a remarkably stable engine, applying a regulated drive force to an oil-free escapement. The result, according to its creator, is optimized isochronism.


The exposed back of the movement displays dead-beat seconds.

+

InFocus_FPJourne_WJ20.indd 42 10/17/12 2:48 PM

+

The Chronomètre Optimum from F.P. Journe

F.P. JOURNE CREATED THIS ESCAPEMENT TO FUNCTION WITHOUT OIL, AND IT IS THE ONLY DIRECT-IMPULSE ESCAPEMENT TO START UP ON ITS OWN.

InFocus_FPJourne_WJ20.indd 43 10/17/12 2:50 PM

ZEITMEISTER AVIATOR CHRONOGRAPH XL

A milestone in fine German watchmaking: the first officially tested chronometers certified to German DIN standards at the Glashütte Observatory. WEMPE ZEITMEISTER Aviator Chronograph XL, 45mm stainless steel case, luminous dial with date display, automatic movement, $ 3,200. Exclusively at Wempe.

Wat

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(949

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exquisite timepieces & jewelry • established 1878

700 fifth ave. & 55th st. • new york • 212.397.9000 • open sundays 12 to 5

at the best addresses in germany, and in london, paris, madrid, vienna and new york

Another Triumph in

German Engineering!

9492 watch journal 2012-12-01_01.indd 2-3 08/02/12 9:22 PMWJ20_wempe_0926_ee.indd 2 9/26/12 11:34 AM

ZEITMEISTER AVIATOR CHRONOGRAPH XL

A milestone in fine German watchmaking: the first officially tested chronometers certified to German DIN standards at the Glashütte Observatory. WEMPE ZEITMEISTER Aviator Chronograph XL, 45mm stainless steel case, luminous dial with date display, automatic movement, $ 3,200. Exclusively at Wempe.

Wat

ch J

ourn

al D

ecem

ber

201

2/Ja

nuar

y 20

13 is

sue

(949

2)

exquisite timepieces & jewelry • established 1878

700 fifth ave. & 55th st. • new york • 212.397.9000 • open sundays 12 to 5

at the best addresses in germany, and in london, paris, madrid, vienna and new york

Another Triumph in

German Engineering!

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WJ20_frankmueller_1011_ee.indd 1 10/11/12 2:36 PM

CONQUEST EVADE SUV

URWERK UR-210

RAYFISH BIO-CUSTOMIZED STINGRAY SNEAKERS

BELL & ROSS PW1 RÉPÉTITION MINUTES ARGENTIUM

88 RUE DU RHONE DOUBLE 8 ORIGIN

MILUS TIRION CUFF LINKS

DEVON TREAD 1 STEAMPUNK

GUCCI INTERLOCKING

OFFICINE PANERAI AMAGNETIC LUMINOR SUBMERSIBLE

TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE T100 ANNIVERSARY LIMITED EDITION

ULYSSE NARDIN SONATA STREAMLINE

SCHOTT PERFECTO RUNAWAY JACKET

GERGE TYPE M-1 METROPOLIS

GIULIANO MAZZUOLI TRANSMISSIONE MECCANICA

DÖTTLING LIBERTY BARCELONA SAFE

BLANCPAIN VILLERET INVERTED MOVEMENT

GENEVA SOUND SYSTEM MODEL XXL

LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR VOYAGEZ II

REUGE MUSIC WINCH SPORT

LUXEFINDER WATCH JOURNAL’S CURATED SELECTION OF THE HOTTEST WATCHES AND MOST LUXURIOUS PRODUCTS

4849

50515253

5456

586061

6263

64666870

7274

LuxeFinder_WJ20 V3.indd 47 10/25/12 4:20 PM


WHITE GOLD, BLACK DECOR

Chanel’s classic color combination is put forward through the use of 18-karat white

gold in the case set with black ceramic and a black dial displaying central hour, minutes and arrow seconds hands. A black high-tech

ceramic cabochon tops the crown.EXCLUSIVITY

Production is limited to fi ve pieces. Approximately $395,000

LUXEFINDER

Baguette-cut gems of high-tech ceramic are the thoroughly modern embellishments on the coin-edged bezel, double chapter rings, lugs and bracelet of the Chanel J12 Intense Black, a 42mm timepiece powered by the automatic Chanel AP 3125 movement. 800.550.0005, chanel.comHIGH

INTENSITY

STANDOUT

The 4-by-4 vehicle offers a choice of gasoline or

diesel engines and comes standard with commercial-grade air-ride suspension, roof-mounted 360-degree

searchlights and night-vision camera systems at the

front and rear.

STYLING

The tactical aesthetic of the aluminum and steel body encompasses wrap-around headlights and taillights, a new grille design and three tandem sunroofs.

LUXEFINDER

Toronto-based Conquest Vehicle’s fi rst unarmored SUV is the 2012 Conquest Evade, which incorporates luxurious materials and handcrafted details throughout. $580,000, conquestvehicles.com

MIGHTMILITARY


ACCESS

Evade’s wide body frame allows access for security personnel though the rear, facilitated by a rear bumper with an integrated step.


REAL TIME

A traditional power reserve display at 1 complements the new complication, which

moves toward red when the watch is running on stored energy and adjusts back toward

green when the motion of the wearer is replenishing the energy supply.

LUXEFINDER

Urwerk has invented an automatic timekeeper that echoes the life of its owner. The titanium and steel UR-210 features a novel complication, displayed at 11, that monitors winding effi ciency—and thus the wearer’s activity level—over the previous two hours. $175,000, 310.271.0000, urwerk.comNEW

METRICS049


EFFICIENCY

A rotor damping system, designed to be engaged during periods of heavy activity, prevents wear to the turbine-aided winding mechanism when mainspring torque is high and extra power is not needed. It’s part of the three-position winding effi ciency selector on the back of the watch.

LuxeFinder_WJ20 V3.indd 49 10/18/12 9:49 AM

LUXEFINDER

GENETICMUTATION

Using coloration and pattern genes from a range of different animal species, Rayfish Footwear raises custom-colored exotic stingrays for their leather, and every pair is unique. $1,800, rayfishfootwear.com


UNIQUENESS

The maker adheres to a strict one-fish, one-shoe policy, guaranteeing that no two customers own identical shoes.

COLOR

Each order starts with the customer, who designs a bio-engineered ray by selecting from

dozens of animal patterns and creating new combinations of markings; e.g., how about

giraffe and rattlesnake?


DECOR

The 49-mm Argentium case has a guilloché caseback in a barleycorn pattern that opens to reveal the movement. The pocket watch comes with a silver chain.

MUSICALITY

Employing one of the finest complications in watchmaking, the pocket watch

indicates the hours and minutes, musically, on demand. It sounds a low tone

for each hour and a double low/high tone for each five-minute period past the hour.

LUXEFINDER

STERLINGEXAMPLE


FORM

The domed ruthenium dial has a sunburst finish, appliqué metal

indices and numerals and a small seconds subdial at 6. The

anti-reflective sapphire crys-tal that covers the dial is also domed, in the style of vintage

pocket watches.

Bell & Ross reinvents the pocket watches of the past in the Vintage PW1 Répétition Minutes Argentium, a modern interpretation that features a manual-winding Dubois Dépraz minute repeater movement inside a case of a tarnish-resistant sterling silver alloy. $39,000, 888.307.7887, bellross.com



BLACKENED

The 35-mm steel case is blackened with a PVD coating. A black calf leather strap secures the watch.

LUXEFINDER

This new watch and others from the Double 8 Origin Collection are helping to establish their maker, newcomer 88 Rue de Rhone, as a name in affordable luxury. $545, 88rdr.comBLACK

BEAUTY

PATTERNED

Eleven diamonds embellish the black dial, which features

delicate all-over logo engraving in the brand’s signature

pattern. A sapphire crystal covers the dial.

PRECISE

A reliable and precise quartz movement keeps the time display ticking.


LUXEFINDER

HEADTURNER

Swiss watch brand Milus offers accessories inspired by its watch collections, including the Milus Tirion cuff links in rhodium-plated stainless steel and other finishes. $395, 866.726.4587, milus.com

DECORATION

This Swiss-made set replicates the Tirion’s winding rotor, which is marked with an

engraved and blackened Milus logo.

ROTATION

Each cuff link measures 20 mm in diameter, and each fully functional rotor moves freely across 360 degrees.



AESTHETICS

The watch’s bronze “body armor” is accented by rivets, screws and fittings with a mix of brass and bronze finishes. Phosphor bronze spring spacers at the four corners of the case add to the aesthetic.

DISPLAY

On the display, the hair-thin fiberglass-reinforced nylon Time Belts are dark brown with off-white numerals, and the

newly designed indicator plate is intricately etched.

LUXEFINDER

TIMEWARPInspired by the Industrial Revolution and the invention of the conveyor belt, Devon introduces the special edition Tread 1 Steampunk, featuring a belt-driven time display in an oversize bronze-clad case. $25,000, 888.901.0081, devontimepieces.com


EDITION

Only 150 examples will be produced in the planned limited edition. Each piece is paired with a vintage-look leather strap.


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COMBINATIONS

The stainless steel case paired with a steel bracelet is only one of the many combinations of materials available in the new collection, which was conceived to appeal to both men and women.

LUXEFINDER

CAPITALEFFORT

Gucci’s signature interlocking double G, first used by brand founder Guccio Gucci in the 1960s, is the defining motif of a new collection of wristwatches designed by Gucci creative director Frida Giannini. $950, 201.867.8800, guccitimeless.com


OPTIONS

Two case sizes— 37 mm and 29 mm—

and sun-brushed minimalist dials in black,

silver or brown add to the available options.

PRECISION

A Swiss-made quartz Ronda movement drives the refined

hands of the time display with the ultimate in precision.

Each watch is backed by a two-year international warranty.


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ANTI-MAGNETIC

Special case construction ensures resistance to magnetic fi elds of up to

40,000 A/m, more than eight times the NIHS 90-10 international standard. MOVEMENT

Panerai’s automatic P.9000 manufacture movement winds in both directions, has a variable inertia balance, Incabloc anti-shock protection and two spring barrels for 72-hour power reserve.

LUXEFINDER

CASEON THE

In its continual search for technically advanced solutions in timekeeping, Offi cine Panerai presents the new Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic (PAM 389), cased in titanium. $12,400, 877.PANERAI, panerai.com


WJ_backesstrauss_0719_ee.indd 1 7/19/12 11:38 AM


LUXEFINDER

In a nod to its storied past, Triumph celebrates its 110-year history with a new limited edition version of the Bonneville T100, which is poised to become a collector’s item in its own right. $10,499, triumphmotorcycles.com

WILDRIDE

LIMITATION

The tank’s anniversary crest identifi es the bike, and its Brooklands Green paint commemorates Triumph’s fi rst racing victory. Only 1,000 examples will be pro-duced in the special anniversary limited edition.

INSPIRATION

With its historic color scheme and details such as a black painted chain guard, instead

of chrome, this classically styled anniver-sary model reveals its inspiration: the fi rst

Triumph motorcycle of 1902.


LUXEFINDER


TECHNOLOGY

Built from titanium and rose gold with a black ceramic bezel, the watch holds Caliber UN-67, which uses silicon com-ponents, including a silicon hairspring, in its balance and escapement.

VISIBILITY

The 44-mm case is fitted with anti-reflective sapphire

crystals on the dial side and in the caseback and is water-

resistant to 50 meters.

SMOOTHSAILINGInspired by the aerodynamic aesthetic of a superyacht, Ulysse Nardin unveils the powerfully masculine Sonata Streamline dual-time watch with countdown timer and cathedral-gong alarm. $39,000, 561.988.8600, ulysse-nardin.com


ADJUSTABILITY

The dual time function is easily reset via an instant adjustor. The large, double-window date display adjusts in both directions via a quick date corrector.


LUXEFINDER


HANDCRAFTED

The maker has been producing outerwear in the USA since 1913. The cowhide leather of this zippered jacket is hand-oiled and takes on an aged look.

DETAILS

With its plaid wool lining and tough brass hardware, this

jacket is ready for the outdoors.

LUXEFINDER

LEATHERLOOK This season, Schott NYC presents the Perfecto Runaway, its

latest twist on the original leather motorcycle jacket in vintage-look brown leather. $1,125, perfectobrand.com



METAL

The 45-mm case is crafted in light-weight titanium and holds a domed sapphire crystal with anti-refl ective coating on both sides.

MECHANICS

An automatic mechanical move-ment drives the hour, minutes,

small seconds, day and date displays of the Côtes de Genève–

decorated anthracite gray dial.

LUXEFINDER

Gergé’s Type M-1 Metropolis takes on a new look in titanium with an integrated genuine alligator leather strap. This variant is produced in a limited edition of just 288 pieces. $3,300, 800.626.4374, gergeswiss.comCITY

SLICKER063




WHITE GOLD, BLACK DECOR

Chanel’s classic color combination is put forward through the use of 18-karat white

gold in the case set with black ceramic and a black dial displaying central hour, minutes and arrow seconds hands. A black high-tech

ceramic cabochon tops the crown.EXCLUSIVITY

Production is limited to fi ve pieces. Approximately $395,000

LUXEFINDER

Baguette-cut gems of high-tech ceramic are the thoroughly modern embellishments on the coin-edged bezel, double chapter rings, lugs and bracelet of the Chanel J12 Intense Black, a 42mm timepiece powered by the automatic Chanel AP 3125 movement. 800.550.0005, chanel.comHIGH

INTENSITY

INTERFACE

The multilevel dial is composed of 21 elements that take on the appearance

of a clutch disc, and the screw-

down crown, positioned at 2,

takes the form of a spline shaft. OUTSIDE

The 42-mm case takes the form of a gear. It is built of stainless steel, fi nished in polished gunmetal PVD coating, and it holds an anti-refl ective sapphire crystal.

LUXEFINDER

Celebrating the beauty of mechanics, Giuliano Mazzuoli has created the Transmissione Meccanica watch, inspired by the components of an automotive gearbox. $4,900, 305.812.3344, giulianomazzuoli.com

GEARHEAD


INSIDE

An automatic mechanical movement—what else?—powers the hour, minutes and seconds indications.


BLACK TULIPFrom the Masters of Skeletonizing

Hand Made Guilloché and Engraving18K Solid Rose Gold - Distinctive - Rare

Black Tulip

Grieb & Benzinger of North America1-888-996-9688 – [email protected]

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MATERIALS

The safe is uphol-stered in tufted calfskin, and all

of its fittings are polished stainless

steel. The piece stands just over

39 inches high and holds 12 watch

winders and three storage drawers.

MODERN

Expertly combining form and function—just like the 1929 Mies van der Rohe piece it is named for—the safe is a tribute to one of the most influential archi-tects and designers of modern times.

LUXEFINDER

DESIGNCUES Döttling, a German maker of handcrafted safes, has introduced a new

masterpiece, the Liberty Barcelona, inspired by the smooth lines and luxe leatherwork of the iconic Barcelona chair and offering state-of-the art security. Approximately $100,000, doettling.com



C e n t r a l C h r o n o g r a p h

collection: Hydroscaph..................................................................................................................................created by: Gerald Clerc.................................................................................................................................

limited//edition

case//dlc steel 103 elements/locking rotating bezel/water resistant 500m/movement//automatic chronograph/hand-crafted in switzerland/please call 609-375-2146or visit clercwatches.com

Clerc_Central_Chronograph_Black_US.indd 1 27.08.12 16:21WJ20_clerc_1011_ee.indd 1 10/11/12 12:58 PM

LUXEFINDERLUXEFINDER

FACEOFF

Blancpain turns the wristwatch upside down with its new Villeret Inverted Movement watch, displaying the decorative back of its large mechanical movement on the dial side. $38,500, 877.520.1735, blancpain.com

INLAID

Inlays of white or black high-tech ceramic decorate the bridges of the manual-winding Villeret Caliber 152B, which comprises 170 components, including 21 ruby bearings.

REVEALED

The 43-mm case is crafted in white gold and has sapphire crystals front

and back, providing windows on both sides of the mechanical movement.



at www.mlxusa.com/facebook

FOLLOWYOURCONVICTIONS

THE PONTOS S SUPERSPORTS CHRONOGRAPHA U T O M AT I C MOVEMENT ML 112, 43 MMSTAINLESS STEEL CASE AND BRACELET, 660ft WRANTIMAGNETIC WITH LOCKING DIVERS BEZELFOR INFORMATION CALL (609) 750-8800

WJ20_mauricelacroix_1003_ee.indd 1 10/3/12 5:55 PM

MUSIC The Geneva Sound System Model XXL combines stunning looks with advanced acoustics to produce a powerful home theater and hi-fi music system inside an elegant cabinet. $4,000, genevalab.com


LUXEFINDER

BALANCED

State-of-the-art digital amplifiers power six speakers and an 8-inch subwoofer. Each speaker

is individually powered and housed in its own chamber for accurate and balanced acoustics.

VERSATILE

The system holds a 65-inch television and connects via HDMI. Interior space provides storage for components like gaming consoles and DVD players. Radio receivers are built in; the system also streams wirelessly via Bluetooth and Apple Airplay.

BEAUTIFUL

The wood cabinet is offered in glossy red, black or white piano finishes.

BOX


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LUXEFINDER

GRAPHICS

Dial markings include three concentric tachymeter scales for determining speeds as slow as 20 kph or as fast as 300 kph. The small central red hand indi-cates elapsed minutes for the chronograph.

AESTHETICS

The steel case, 44 mm in diameter, is water-resistant

to 100 meters. A rose gold version is also available.

In either version, a perfo-rated calfskin strap with

contrasting lining evokes the steering wheel covers

of sports cars and provides the finishing touch.

ROADLouis Vuitton’s second wristwatch in its Voyagez series, the limited edition Tambour Voyagez II, features sporty styling and complications tailored to traveling by car. $9,250, 866.VUITTON, louisvuitton.com


METRICS

Automatic winding and a chronograph with tachym-

eter scale facilitate effortless measurements of time and

speed on the road. Caliber LV168, manufactured by

Dubois Dépraz, drives these functions plus a date display.

TRIP


CHRONOFIGHTEROVERSIZE BLACK SAHARAREF:2CCAU.B02AAutomatic chronographCarbon leverCeramic bezelTelemeter based on 25cWater resistant to 100m

WWW.GRAHAM-LONDON.COMHANDCRAFTED IN SWITZERLAND

WJ20_graham_1017_ee.indd 1 10/17/12 1:32 PM

MOVEMENT

Like a watch, this piece’s musical movement is finely finished. Its 72-note cylinder plays three different tunes, thanks to a selector mechanism that moves the cylinder laterally to three different positions.

DESIGN

A perforated stainless steel sail and lacquered base are inspired

by the world of luxury boating. The spring housing takes on the look of

a winch. Simply turn the crank to start the music.

LUXEFINDER

THE BOXOUTSIDE

Unveiled at this year’s Plaisance de Cannes on the French Riviera, the luxurious and sailing-inspired Winch Sport mechanical music box by Reuge combines technical know-how with contemporary design. $9,990, 800.REUGE.4U, reuge.com



TURBINE XL, A1050/1

DOUBLE ROTOR TECHNOLOGY

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TURBINE XL, A1050/1

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2825 N. University Drive, Suite 110 • Coral Springs, FL

954.575.7980 • [email protected]

H5 Group Corp.

WJ20_perrelet_1008_ee.indd 1 10/8/12 4:25 PM

WJ20_underwood_1025_ee.indd 2 10/25/12 4:01 PM

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+FIVE MINUTES WITH...

LI BINGBING | ON THE JOURNEY FROM OBSCURITY TO FAMETEXT BY: KEITH W. STRANDBERG

FAT E A N D FAM E“I never dreamed of being an actress,” she explains. “Since I was young, my goal was to get an education and take care of my parents. I never thought that, one day, I’d be a famous actress and Gucci’s brand am-bassador! I’m thankful that fate has brought me this way and given me the chance to learn so much.”

Besides fate, Li Bingbing attributes her success to chi ku (a willingness to suffer to attain a goal). “I don’t think there’s really a secret to success,” she says. “I believe that good things come to those who work hard. I’m very focused at what I do—sometimes to a fault. I suppose this is what it means to have found a career you love.”

H UM B L E B EG I N N I N G SThe actress didn’t wear watches growing up, but she has a treasured

memory of a childhood routine involving timekeeping. “My parents were always worried that I’d be late to school. So, to make a game of it, my father drew a watch on my wrist, showing the time that I’d need to leave to get to school on time. When the clock at home matched the ‘watch’ on my wrist, I was on my way! It’s one of my first memories of telling time. Now, when I put on a watch, it makes me feel that I’m ready for work, that every

second of every day means something,” she explains.

Li was a Gucci fan long before she was a brand am-bassador. “To me, Gucci has always been about history, about bringing back and rein-tegrating classic designs,” she details. “What I especially love about Gucci’s watches is how they are fashionable and clas-sic at the same time. When we think of bamboo, which is one of Gucci’s signature materials, we think of thick and unyield-ing plants. However, Gucci has so cleverly integrated it into its watches. These are truly

classic designs.”

FAVO R I T E T H I N G S“My favorite Gucci watch is a steel and natural bamboo one that Frida Giannini, Gucci’s creative director, gave me as a gift,” she continues. “I didn’t tell her that it was my favorite, but I’m sure she knew. I think it’s perfect because it looks casual enough for a natural environ-ment, but also formal enough for an urban environment. Like everything Gucci, it has subtle sexiness integrated with stead-fast confidence. This attitude fits everyone!”

And what will Li’s next watch be? “I can’t decide!” she exclaims. “I’ve had the pleasure of spending time with each of the pieces in photo shoots. I’m so in love with all the designs and the creativity that goes into them that I think I’ll just have to start collecting!”

guccitimeless.com

A shining star of the Chinese cinema and now a figure on the world stage, 39-year-old Li Bingbing started out as a music teacher but was bitten by the acting bug soon after and entered the Shanghai Drama Institute in 1993. Best known for action movies like this year’s “Resident Evil: Retribution” and 2008’s “The Forbidden Kingdom” with Jackie Chan and Jet Li, the captivating actress holds her own in any situation. When she recently became the face of Gucci timepieces, I caught up with her between projects to talk about work, watches and her zest for life.


“I’M SO IN LOVE WITH ALL THE DESIGNS AND THE CREATIVITY THAT GOES INTO THEM.”

GUCCI BAMBOO: Stainless steel and bamboo cases, Swiss Ronda quartz movements

+

5MW_GucciLiBingBing_WJ20.indd 78 10/16/12 10:34 AM

“TO ME, GUCCI HAS ALWAYS BEEN ABOUT HISTORY, ABOUT BRINGING BACK CLASSIC DESIGNS.”

—LI BINGBINGACTRESS

+

Gucci Bamboo bangle watch, $9

95

5MW_GucciLiBingBing_WJ20.indd 79 10/16/12 10:34 AM

+FIVE MINUTES WITH...

HOPE SOLO | ENJOYING THE JOURNEYTEXT BY: KEITH W. STRANDBERG

CO M P ET I T I V E S EC R ETSWhat is her secret to success? “I have had to overcome so much,” Solo says. “So, I constantly want to push myself to be the best goalkeeper I can be, and I think that drive is what allows me to play with such passion.”

Solo always knew that she wanted to be a soccer player. “When I was 12 years old, I was assigned to write a paper about what I wanted to be. I wrote in capital letters that I wanted to be a pro soccer player, even though, at that time, there was no professional soccer league in the US!”

Solo’s first watch was a color-ful quartz piece with a famous Swiss name. “When I was a teen-ager, I had a pink Swatch

that was so cool,” she remem-bers. “My sister bought it for me when she was in New York City shopping. I still have it.”

U N I T I N G FO R C ECoincidentally, Solo was shop-ping for a watch to celebrate her 100th international game around the same time she teamed up with Seiko. “Seiko approached my agent, and we decided to work together,” she says. “I think Seiko’s watches are beautiful. They are about strength and beauty. They are elegant, not too flashy or over the top. I’m wearing

classic and timeless watches from Seiko’s Sportura and the Coutura collections.”

Solo won’t be wearing those watches on the field, however. And she says her perception of time during play depends on what’s happening in the game. “As a team, we are very consistent, and we know that the goals are going to come,” she explains. “But time seems to go faster or slower, depend-ing on whether we are ahead or behind. We recently scored the latest goal in the history of

the World Cup; as soon as it was scored, that

was the end of

the game. Against Korea, when we started to fall apart a little bit, despite a 2–0 lead, time seemed to go so slower, and they came back and equalized.”

T H E J O U R N EYSolo says the match she is proudest of is the 2011 FIFA Women’s World Cup final, which her team lost. “When we won the gold, I thought winning was everything,” she says. “Fast forward to the 2011 World Cup—we didn’t win, but we played beautifully, and we entertained people all across the globe. Women’s soccer went mainstream. At the end of the game, walking up to one of my friends on the winning Japanese team, I was genu-inely happy for them. That was one of my proudest moments, because I realized that there is much more to the sport than winning, there is the journey, and I appreciate every moment of it, not just the end result.”

seikousa.com

Since bursting onto the national and international scene 12 years ago, American soccer champ Hope Solo has become a force in the world of sports and beyond. Combining her extraordinary talent with success on and o� the “pitch,” Solo has been featured on television, magazine covers, cereal boxes and more. Now, the goalkeeper and two-time Olympic gold medalist is joining forces with Seiko.


Seiko Coutura with ceramic bezel and bracelet links

+

5MW_SeikoSolo_WJ20.indd 80 10/16/12 12:09 PM

+

“I PUSH MYSELF TO BE THE BEST GOALKEEPER I CAN BE, AND I THINK THAT DRIVE IS WHAT ALLOWS ME TO PLAY WITH SUCH PASSION.”

—HOPE SOLOAMERICAN SOCCER CHAMPION

Seiko Coutura, $475

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The Jean Dunand Shabaka, a unique minute repeater with perpetual calendar in red gold

Limited Bespoke_WOR20.indd 82 10/17/12 12:17 PM

LIMITED EDITION AND BESPOKE TIMEPIECES BREAK WITH THE ORDINARY

IN TODAY’S WORLD, SAMENESS IS THE NORM. No matter where you go,

in city after city, you fi nd the same cars, retail stores, restaurants and more. People are

wearing the same styles, seeking out the same brand names and carrying the same tab-

lets, smartphones and other gadgets. Globalization is good for business, certainly, but

what about those consumers who don’t want to follow the crowd. There is at least one

place where they are guaranteed to fi nd a little solace: Switzerland is home to a myriad

of devoted watchmakers who would love nothing more than to create a personalized

special edition or bespoke timepiece for every customer.


B Y K E I T H W . S T R A N D B E R G


Christophe Claret's Dual Tow Nighteagle from a series of 68 unique Dual Tow variants

Christophe Claret's Dual Tow Nighteagle from a series of 68 unique Dual Tow variants

“ MANY COMPANIES USE LIMITED EDITIONS TO ‘STRETCH THEIR MUSCLES’ IN WATCHMAKING.”

LIMITED EDITIONSThe simplest way to acquire a watch that not everyone is wearing is to shop for a limited edition. Leading watchmaking brands go to great lengths to make their limited editions special, employing unusual materials, sel-dom seen artistic processes and out-of-the-ordinary designs to create special watches in limited numbers.

Companies like Patek Philippe, Van Cleef & Arpels, Hermès, Piaget and others do min-iature painting, enamel, marquetry, mosaic, lacquer, engraving, mother-of-pearl inlay and more in their limited edition watches, arti-sanal processes that are so time-consuming and prohibitively expensive that it would be impossible to incorporate them into their reg-ular collections. Many companies use limited editions to “stretch their muscles” in watch-making, pushing the envelope, knowing that only a few of these limited edition watches will ever be made. The majority of quality watch brands produce limited editions. The key is to determine what makes a limited edi-tion special and assess its true value before taking the plunge.


Midnight Tourbillon Red Dragon with painted enamel dial, a unique piece by Van Cleef & Arpels


Page:1

File: 61143 Victory 298.5x235 Size: 298.5x235

Client: BREMONT Op: Simon Date: 28/09/12

AMV Job No: A99A1M00898

Publication: Watch Journal

Proof

5 MASTER

Design Creative Team

Project Leader (Master only) BAD (Master only)

Account Management

Signed

Tel No

Logo

Website T&Cs

Fonts

Usage

Grammar

Spelling

Image

Rotation

A W A T C H

M A D E F R O M P A R T S

O F H M S V I C T O R Y ?

W E D O N O T

A N T I C I P A T E

H U G E S A L E S

I N F R A N C E

O R S P A I N .

It’s hardly surprising.

The Bremont Victory chronograph is an unashamed tribute to the greatest ocean-going vessel in British naval history.

The ship that, under the audacious leadership of Admiral Horatio Nelson, vanquished the combined might of the Franco-Spanish fleet at Trafalgar.

If your name is Marcel or Pedro, you may want to look away now.

Nelson went into battle outnumbered and outgunned.

And yet, led by HMS Victory, the British captured twenty-one French and Spanish ships, destroyed one and lost none.

A stunning 22-0 away win.

On that October day in 1805, Britannia really did rule the waves.

Today, the Bremont Victory chronograph borrows more than just the name of the famous vessel.

It incorporates actual material from the original ship.

With the kind permission of the National Museum of the Royal Navy we’ve used oak and copper from Victory in the construction of every watch.

(In return, proceeds from each sale will go to help the ship’s restoration.)

The inner barrel of the case is crafted from HMS Victory copper.

While the back of the case is inlaid with oak from the ship’s timbers.

But although these parts date from the 18th century (the ship was built in 1759), the rest of the watch is very definitely 21st century.

The automatic movement features a double retrograde date, second hand and chronograph.

And the case is built from 18 carat rose gold and hardened stainless steel.

(Having survived the French and Spanish guns, we wouldn’t want any part of Victory to come to harm now.)

As you might expect, the Bremont Victory is only available in a strictly limited edition and demand is likely to be high.

But look on the bright side.

Unlike Nelson, you won’t have to fight off the French and the Spanish.

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G E T T I N G T O K N O W

BESPOKE

Atelier Cabinotiers at Vacheron Constantin

G E T T I N G T O K N O W

BESPOKEBESPOKE

Atelier Cabinotiers at Vacheron Constantin

T H E C O U R T S H I PHere, you meet with the brand and dis-cuss what you are looking for and about what is possible.

T H E R O M A N C E A N D D R AW I N G SDuring this step, you and the brand send drawings back and forth, fi nalizing the design.

R A P I D P R O T O T Y P EAt this stage, you will be presented with a rapid prototype, normally made out of resin that shows you the size and volume of your timepiece.

M E TA L P R O T O T Y P ENext comes the prototype made in metal—steel or brass—and now the design is just about fi nished. The metal version is to make sure you are happy with the size and weight and gives you a sense of what it will feel like on your wrist. This is the last chance to make small changes.

F I N I S H E D P R O D U C T I O NYour watch has now gone into produc-tion, and, depending on the level of bespoke, it can take some time.

D E L I V E R YDepending on the extent of your changes, and the value of your bespoke time-piece, delivery could be arranged via courier, through a local retailer or, in special cases, watchmakers will hand-deliver your unique watch to your door.

BESPOKE TIMEPIECESMore and more luxury watch companies are making it possible for customers to have unique timepieces, made to their own specifi cations. At the most basic level, customers can make alterations and modifi cations to existing collections to person-alize them. It takes longer and costs more than buying a regular production watch, but for many customers, it’s worth the wait and the price.

Companies like Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Bovet and many others are happy to satisfy their clients’ wishes, with options such as custom colors, made-to-order min-iature dial paintings or special engraving on the movement or the case. There is, however, a limit. A client who requests a design that the maker considers o� ensive or not in keeping with its brand identity is likely to be refused. After all, the brand’s name is on the watch as well.

Vacheron Constantin has taken custom watch production even further, estab-lishing an entire department, called the Atelier Cabinotiers, devoted exclusively to highly limited and bespoke products. Working with this department, clients create their own timepieces from scratch, including a custom movement if neces-sary. The price can be steep, but many consider it to be worth every penny to own a one-o� timepiece.

Jean Dunand is a brand that makes only unique timepieces, using special materials like natural stones and precious metals, and the brand will even make watches specifi c to a client’s demands, as long as they fi t into the brand’s design aesthetic.


One example of the customizable Quai de l'Ile by Vacheron Constantin


GLOBAL COLLECTION

jacobandco.com2 1 2 . 7 1 9 . 5 8 8 748 East 57th Street

New York, NY

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Unlike cars, where customization after the purchase is commonplace, watches, until now, have been left pretty much alone, except for a re-placement strap. There are companies now that will do basically whatever you want to your timepiece. Wish you had diamonds on it? No problem. Like DLC coating? These companies can do it. How about the all black look? Just order it and it will be done.

As you might imagine, some watch companies don’t approve of their designs being tampered with. The companies performing the custom-izations hold that the products now belong to the customers and they are free to do whatever they wish with their property. One such company is Project X Designs, which offers be-spoke services using the customer’s watch or ready-made options applied to some of the most popular models from established companies, such as Rolex and Audemars Piguet.

AFTER-SALECUSTOMIZAT ION

THE FUTURE OF CUSTOMIn addition to orders for new watches, pre-owned bespoke and limited edi-tion watches continue to do well on the auction market as customers clamor for the unique. The most famous example is a custom timepiece by Patek Philippe. The Graves pocket watch, made in 1933, sold for $11 million at auc-tion in 1999. As long as demand remains strong, watch companies will pro-duce fantastic customized watches. All it takes is time and money, and for a completely bespoke watch, you will need an abundance of both.

The Statue of Liberty and Manhattan island fl ank a diamond-set crown

AFTER-SALECUSTOMIZAT ION

Grand feu champlevé enameling decorate the case and dial with images of New York City

Grand feu champlevé enameling decorate the case and dial with

THE FUTURE OF CUSTOM

Unlike cars, where customization

CUSTOMIZAT ION

Piaget's Polo Tourbillon Relatif New York, produced in a limited edition of just three examples



Original Life Barter Kit circa 1942, used by Navy pilots during WWII to trade for information, food or their very life. Found inside is the original Milus Snow Star stainless steel watch and waterproof strap, along with additional 24k gold items. This incredible story is ironi-cally brought back to light, by a Swiss watch that was in their pocket, over 72 years ago.

THE VALUE OF LIFEA historical find by MILUS

This story was hidden for over 70 years, it’s a story about the value of life, and what that means. In 1942 during the dark times of WWII, the value of life was reflected in a small rubber box called a Life Barter Kit. It was given to Navy airmen to help them in the event they crash landed or parachuted onto remote islands of the pacific, where often they would need to have some sort of valuables in order to trade for food, information or their very lives.

Inside these Life Barter Kits were 24 karat gold valuables and a watch made by Milus. The discovery of this story came quite unexpectedly to Milus, as the Navy program was top secret at the time. It was in 2010 that Milus discov-ered that their Snow Star watch was involved in the Navy program developed to help save these young pilots lives.

Milus is now offering two exclusive editions that celebrate the original Life Barter Kit. These models are ideal for the horology connoisseurs who seek fine Swiss timepieces with deep historical roots. The Snow Star Heritage watch in stainless steel, is limited to a series of 1940 numbered pieces. It boasts a Swiss-made, high-precision automatic movement with sweep hours, minutes and seconds, and a date that changes instantly at midnight.

Included in this unique limited edition version of the origi-nal Life Barter Kit is a pair of exclusive modern steel cuf-flinks each containing a working compass. Also included in the USA versions are Dog Tags, that can be customized to the collector’s wishes along with an additional water-proof strap as was found in the original Kit. The introduc-tory retail price for the launch is $3,290, and is expected to increase as kits sell out.

The Snow Star Heritage series is also available in 18k Red gold, limited to 99 pieces, and contains an original

manual movement, circa 1940 that has been entirely overhauled. The dial is intricate-ly readable and very sophisticat-ed, with faceted markers applied to a sunburst brushed silver backdrop. The screwed down case back echoes the design of the original model and features the brand’s historic logo carved in re-lief. To memorialize the Life Barter Kit, Milus cre-ated an Exclusive pair of cufflinks in red gold, featur-ing an airplane with a pro-peller that rotates by the move-ments of the wearer’s wrist. The other is a genuine compass that can be used to stay one’s course. The plight of the Navy airman in WW2 was harrowing. Flying in the middle of the pacific, fighting the elements, and the enemy, in a Grumond Hellcat, a plane that had to be built with folding wings in order to fit on the carriers.

Milus solutes and honors these brave young men almost for-gotten with the passage of time, whose incredible story is ironically brought back to light, by a Swiss watch that was in their pocket, 72 years ago.

Contact Milus USA: 310-424-5701or [email protected] www.Milus.com

AdvertorialLimited edition Snow Star Heritage watch by MILUS in 18K red gold

manual movement, circa 1940 that has been entirely overhauled. The dial is intricate-ly readable and very sophisticat-ed, with faceted markers applied to a sunburst brushed silver backdrop. The screwed down case back echoes the design of the original model and features the brand’s historic logo carved in re-lief. To memorialize the Life Barter Kit, Milus cre-ated an Exclusive pair of cufflinks in red gold, featur-ing an airplane with a pro-peller that rotates by the move-ments of the wearer’s wrist. The other is a genuine compass that can be used to stay one’s course. The plight of the Navy airman in WW2 was harrowing. Flying in the middle of the pacific, fighting the elements, and the enemy, in a Grumond

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TRUE CLASSIC

Maltese cross–shaped tourbillon carriage of the hand-

fi nished manufacture Caliber 2260

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THE STORIED PAST AND VIBRANT FUTURE OF VACHERON CONSTANTIN CAPTURED IN A NEW TOURBILLON B Y K E I T H W . S T R A N D B E R G

TRUE CLASSICWith “classical” and “understated” trending as watch styles recently, many brands have scrambled to produce watches that fit the bill. Vacheron Constantin, however, has been crafting authentically classic timepieces for more than 250 years. Reinforcing its legacy, Vacheron Constantin this year introduced the Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-day Tourbillon, a combination of traditional high watchmaking and, at the same time, a dis-tinctly modern approach to horology. Notably, this watch is the fi rst from Vacheron Constantin to comply with the new Geneva Seal requirements, signaling the future for the Geneva-based high watchmaking manufacture.




IMPORTANCE OF PATRIMONYMaking a tourbillon is nothing new for Vacheron Constantin, and, today, more com-panies are making tourbillons than at any other time in the history of watchmaking. So, it wouldn’t make sense for the new Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-day Tourbillon to be “just” a tourbillon.

“If we look at the market for tourbillon watches, we see 150 or more companies that make tourbillons,” says Christian Selmoni, artistic director, Vacheron Constantin. “The tourbillon is a mythical complication that was extremely di� cult to build before the com-puter era. I remember my grandfather, who was a great watchmaker, talking to me about the tourbillon with respect in his voice. Of course, now, the tourbillon is much easier to design and manufacture than it was 100 years ago. So, for this watch, we wanted to introduce a classical, round tourbillon but with some-thing di� erent, and we decided to add a very long power reserve.”

The new time-piece uses a new manufacture movement with four spring barrels, which produce 14 days (approximately 336 hours) of power reserve. Mounted in coupled pairs, the barrels unwind simultane-ously, only four times as slowly as a single barrel would. Together, their total spring length exceeds 2 meters—all packed into a movement of just 29.1 mm in diameter—and this controlled release of energy results in greater stability in timekeeping. “This is a high-end tourbillon; it contains a great deal of watchmaking know-how inside,” Selmoni continues. “The four bar-rels are giving energy at the same time. This is a system that o� ers better regularity for torque in the movement. And because this is a Vacheron Constantin tourbillon, the fi nishing is impeccable. We put a lot of e� ort into the hand-fi nishing, because this is the ultimate in high-end watchmaking. Everything is packed into a very pure, simple, elegant design.”

Christian Selmoniartistic director, Vacheron Constantin

“I REMEMBER MY GRANDFATHER, WHO WAS A GREAT WATCHMAKER, TALKING TO ME ABOUT THE TOURBILLON WITH RESPECT IN HIS VOICE.”


The 42-mm Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-day Tourbillon in 5N rose gold with alligator strap



SEAL OF QUALITYIn the past, the Geneva Seal, also known as the Geneva Hallmark, was primarily a fi nishing standard, the fl aw in the certifi -cation being that, under the old regime, a non-functioning watch could theoretically qualify to receive the Geneva Seal. Well, no more. The Geneva Seal has made some signifi cant changes, adding preci-sion testing, similar to that of the COSC, although more demanding.

“For us, the Geneva Hallmark is something important,” says Selmoni. “This label was created 126 years ago to protect the name of Geneva. Be-cause the criteria are so demanding, the Geneva Seal gives a lot of credit to our watchmaking. This is a third-party certification, so it gives us a lot of cred-ibility. Also, it’s great that the Seal now

covers the entire watch, including a pre-cision standard.”

For watch lovers, the new Geneva Seal encompasses it all—precision, attention to detail and the highest level of hand-fi nishing. “The Geneva Seal is crucial for customers,” says Hugues de Pins, president of Vacheron Constantin North America. “Everyone says ‘we are Swiss made,’ but the meaning of Swiss made can be unclear. We have been committed since the beginning of the Geneva Seal, and we have always respected the stan-dards. We are able to explain what the cri-teria for the Geneva Seal are, and why it is more and more challenging to be certi-fi ed. In the end, the Geneva Seal is a very strong argument ensuring exceptional quality and the highest level of traditional hand-fi nishing for the customer.”

H I G H C A L I B E R

Vacheron Constantin’s latest tourbillon uses the maker’s new Caliber 2260. Devel-oped and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin, this 13-ligne caliber comprises 231 parts. Its architecture features two large bridges (instead of three, as in earlier Vacheron Constantin tourbillons). The larger bridge surfaces allow lavish fi nishing, including Côtes de Genève engraving.

The tourbillon carriage is inspired by the brand’s signature Maltese cross and provides a splendid show-case for the exceptional level of fi nishing of each movement part, including a number of interior angles, all naturally hand-beveled. The rounding off of the tourbillon bar alone requires more than 11 hours of manual craftsmanship.


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P O W E R T O S PA R E

Inspired by historical pocket watches from Vacheron Constantin’s past, the silver-toned opaline dial of the Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-day Tourbillon places the power reserve indicator at 12. The 280° segment is designed for enhanced leg-ibility, so the state of wind is discernible at a glance.

SELF-SUFFICIENCYCurrently, about 80 percent of Vacheron Constantin watches are equipped with in-house movements (for the remaining roughly 20 percent, in a few models, the maker currently uses Jaeger-LeCoultre and Frédéric Piguet movements), but the goal is for 100 percent of Vacheron Constantin’s production to use in-house movements and for each watch to earn Geneva Seal status.

As a classically styled tourbillon in the grandest tradition of high horology, the new Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-day Tourbil-lon with its manufacture movement and extraordinary power re-serve ushers in the new era and symbolizes both the storied past and the vibrant future of Vacheron Constantin.vacheron-constantin.com

"WE HAVE BEEN COMMITTED SINCE

THE BEGINNING OF THE GENEVA

SEAL, AND WE HAVE ALWAYS RESPECTED

THE STANDARDS."Hugues de Pins

president of Vacheron Constantin North America

P O W E R T O S PA R E

SELF-SUFFICIENCYCurrently, about 80 percent of Vacheron Constantin watches are

president of Vacheron Constantin North America


THE WATCH AND JEWELLERY SHOW

APRIL 25 – MAY 2, 2013

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GIVEBetter to

For: MenThe holiday season is the perfect time to invest in a fi ne timepiece. This year, there

are numerous styles that are catching men’s eyes. Perennial favorites, elegant and

traditional styles are more popular now than at any time in the past decade or so.

And new watches inspired by vintage classics hold special appeal. In addition, many

interesting sports watches and chronographs have been introduced this year, along

with key complications from well-respected manufacturers. And nothing is more

elegant than an ultrathin mechanical timepiece that sparkles as brightly as the sea-

son itself, whether with polished precious metal or even diamond accents.

— KEITH W. STRANDBERG

For: WomenThis year, don’t overlook mechanical watches for the special women on your gift list. These timepieces are more desirable and more easily found than ever. Women will appreciate and marvel at the sophistication of complications like a perpetual calendar, a minute repeater or a multi-time-zone watch. Diamonds and other gemstone treatments remain highly popular in women’s watches, and makers are paying closer attention to the quality of the diamonds and the way they are set. This year’s crop of high-end diamond watches shines brightly, complemented by designs that were specifi cally created to accommodate the stones. ENJOY THE THRILL OF THIS YEAR’S HOLIDAY HUNT!

watches for her and for him this holiday

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Grieb & BenzingerWHITE DRAGON AND GREY DRAGONCelebrating the mythical dragon, this maker has created a

completely skeletonized, engraved and hand-guilloché manual-

winding movement—visible through the caseback—that challenges

the visual appeal of the ornately decorated white or gray dial. The

43-mm 18-karat white or rose gold case has a hand-guilloché bezel

and lugs set with 77 diamonds, a gold crown and a screw-down

exhibition caseback with sapphire crystal. $57,900–$59,500, 888.996.9688, grieb-benzinger.com


Bell&RossBRS WHITE CERAMIC PHANTOM DIAMONDThe diamond-set bezel and hour markers add fire to this timepiece’s snowy-white aesthetic. The 39-mm, instrument-inspired case holds an ETA quartz movement. Photoluminescent hands and dial elements remain legible, night and day. A ceramic bracelet completes the package.$7,300, 888.307.7887, bellross.com

PerreletDIAMOND FLOWER

Perrelet’s exclusive P-191 Double Rotor automatic move-

ment poetically incorporates a decorative spinning rotor

that sweeps over the dial on the front of the 36-mm watch.

The intense red of the sunburst dial and crocodile strap is

outshined only by the fire of the watch’s 88 VS1 Top

Wesselton diamonds (approximately 1.02 carats in total).

$9,100–$9,250, 954.937.9180, perrelet.com

Maurice LacroixLES CLASSIQUES PHASES DE LUNE LADIESClassic simplicity is the goal of the timepiece collection that yields this watch, a 33-mm stainless steel and diamond piece with day, date and moonphase indication. And nothing could be simpler than the automatic winding of the ML 155 automatic movement, which winds itself with every motion of the wrist. The stainless steel bracelet features a hidden folding clasp.$6,600–$6,700, 609.375.2293, mauricelacroix.com



HamiltonJAZZMASTER SEAVIEW LADIES DIAMOND

This 37-mm automatic mechanical timepiece

dazzles in wintery white with 72 diamonds on the

bezel and a polished white leather strap. The white

lacquer dial features diamond-shaped indices and

a date display at 3. The watch is water-resistant to

100 meters.

$2,895, 800.234.TIME, hamiltonwatch.com

SeikoTRESSIABenefiting the American Heart Association’s Go Red for Women campaign, the Seiko Tressia in white high-tech ceramic and stainless steel features a Swarovski red crystal heart on the dial, which absorbs light energy to power the watch’s time display. Also available in a black ceramic version.$325, 800.782.2510, seikousa.com

Franck MullerDOUBLE MYSTERY

An automatic movement supplies the power behind

this watch’s gem-covered, mystery-style time

display. Arrows mounted on rotating discs point out

the hours and minutes, surrounded by baguette-cut

diamonds and blue sapphires. The 39-mm 18-karat

white gold case features an exhibition caseback and

is fitted with a crocodile strap.

$384,000, 212.463.8898, franckmullerusa.com



Carl F. BuchererALACRIA DIVA GOTHIC

One in a series of three gem-set limited editions, this

dramatic watch sparkles with precious diamonds (1.3

carats) and rubies (1 carat). The shapely 18-karat white

gold case is paired with a galuchat strap, lined with red

alligator skin, and 18-karat white gold pin buckle.

$149,900, 800.395.4306, carl-f-bucherer.com

Vacheron ConstantinMÉTIERS D’ART KALLA HAUTE COUTURE À PAMPILLESA dazzling array of flame-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds decorate the 18-karat white gold case and bracelet of this high jewelry masterpiece. A diamond-set case cover brilliantly conceals the dial whenever it’s not in use. And a 17-jewel manual-winding movement keeps the time display running smoothly and offers 35-hour power reserve.$735,000, 855.729.1755, vacheron-constantin.com

Ralph LaurenMODERN ART DECO

The clean geometric lines and luxurious materials of the Art

Deco movement find new expression in Ralph Lauren’s newest

collection of jeweled watches, available by special order. This one

combines white gold, diamonds and red coral–based stone to

dramatic effect. A decorated manual-winding movement, Caliber

RL430, made by Piaget for Ralph Lauren, powers the time display

of the opaline dial. A jeweled clasp secures the black satin strap.

$51,000, 888.475.7674, ralphlaurenwatches.com


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de GrisogonoTONDO TOURBILLON GIOIELLO S03

At the heart of this jeweled watch beats the first manual-winding mechanical tourbillon movement ever to be signed by de Grisogono. The motion of the tourbillon at 8 draws the eye to the dramatically dark mother-of-pearl dial, which is surrounded by brown diamonds. The 31-mm-wide case is attached to a galuchat strap.$230,000, 866.DEGRISO, degrisogono.com

Patek PhilippeREF. 4968R

Manual-winding Caliber 215 PS LU is at the heart of this

complicated watch, tailored for a woman, at 33.3 mm in di-

ameter. Its spiral-engraved mother-of-pearl dial displays the

time, including small seconds, and the phases of the moon.

The bezel and case repeat the spiral motif with a total of

273 diamonds in graduated sizes, for total diamond weight

of approximately 2.12 carats. An additional 0.25 carats of

diamonds decorate the buckle.

$58,600, 212.218.1240, patek.com

Jaeger-LeCoultreRENDEZ-VOUS HAUTE JOAILLERIEWILD ROSEEmbodying a refined tribute to timekeeping for women, this high jewelry piece combines masterful enamel work with a manufacture tourbillon movement and decorates the whole in sparkling diamonds. Manufacture Caliber 978 is self-winding and offers 48 hours autonomy.$123,000, 800.552.8463, jaeger-lecoultre.com


Windsor Fine Jewelers Augusta, GA | Schiffman’s Greensboro & Winston-Salem, NC

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Jaquet DrozTHE ECLIPSE ONYXThe moon phase display of this watch’s black onyx dial, surrounded by rhodium “stars,” evokes a clear midwinter sky. The double barrel Jaquet Droz 6553L2 automatic move-

ment drives this complication, along with time and annual calendar functions, and provides 68 hours of power reserve. Each 43-mm stainless steel example is individually numbered.$17,900, 888.866.0059, jaquet-droz.com

TA G HeuerCARRERA CALIBRE 1887

This 43-mm chronograph in polished stainless

steel conveys the effortless elegance of the

Carrera range. Its namesake Swiss-made

automatic movement features balance frequency

of 28,800 bph, 50 hours of power reserve and

rapid date correction capability. Rose gold–

colored numerals and luminescent hands

contrast with the minimalist black dial.

$6,200, 866.675.2080, tagheuer.com


IWC SchaffhausenBIG PILOT’S PERPETUAL CALENDAR WATCH TOP GUN

When fully wound, the mechanical movement of this perpetual calendar delivers seven-day power reserve, courtesy of a Pellaton automatic winding system and a decorated rotor bearing an 18-karat gold medallion. The black ceramic case is 48 mm in diameter and 16 mm high. The dial displays day, date, month, four-digit year, phases of the moon, small hacking seconds and remaining power reserve.$38,600, 800.432.9330, iwc.com

PerreletPERIPHERAL DOUBLE ROTORAnti-reflective sapphire crystals at the front and back of this watch provide an unobstructed view of the motion of rotors on both sides of Perrelet’s proprietary automatic Double Rotor P-331 movement. The masculine black dial, which features luminous hands and markers, is framed by the bezel of the 42-mm black DLC-treated case.

$8,300, 954.937.9180, perrelet.com

MilusTIRION TRIRETROGRADEA modified automatic ETA 2892-A2 is at the heart of this time-piece, which dazzles the eye with a constant-motion display of three seconds hands, ticking their way across 20-second seg-ments in sequence. The dial features bridges holding the seconds scales on top of a decorative dial center. The 45-mm steel case has sapphire crystals front and back.$9,450, 866.726.4587, milus.com



Vacheron ConstantinPATRIMONY TRADITIONNELLE CALIBRE 2253 Crafted in precious 950 platinum, this 44-mm timepiece, produced in a limited edition of just 10 examples, is made exponentially more

precious by the addition of manual-winding Caliber 2253, featuring a tourbillon mechanism, perpetual calendar, equation of time and sunrise/sunset functions, 14-day power reserve

and Geneva Hallmark recognition for quality. $464,000, 855.729.1755, vacheron-constantin.com

Bell&RossVINTAGE WW1 CHRONOGRAPHEMONOPOUSSOIR An ivory dial, snailed chronograph counters, pear-shaped blued steel hands and wire lugs lend this piece the presence of a vintage watch. The pocket-watch-inspired dimensions of the 45-mm polished steel case reinforces the image. The La Joux- Perret mechanical movement is self-winding, and its single-button chronograph mechanism includes a 30-minute totalizer.$7,600–$8,000, 888.307.7887, bellross.com


Ulysse NardinCLASSICO LUNA

This deceptively simple looking watch realistically depicts the

moon’s rotations, using a mechanism based on a development

by horologist Ludwig Oechslin. The moon disc of the dial rotates

around the dial center every 12 hours, reflecting the way the

moon circles the earth. And, over the course of 29.5 days, the

color of the moon changes, indicating waxing and waning. The

diamond-set 18-karat rose gold case includes a corrector on

its caseside for setting this special function.

$24,600, 561.988.8600, ulysse-nardin.com

Frédérique ConstantSLIMLINE TOURBILLON MANUFACTUREThe silver dial of this new limited edition watch is simplicity itself, with the exception, of course, of the spectacular revealed tourbillon mechanism of the FC-980-3 manufacture movement. The first tourbillon to emerge from Frédérique Constant, this individually numbered movement features a silicon escape wheel and lever. The watch displays hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon and day/night via a central propeller hand. $36,995, 877.619.2824, frederique-constant.com

Officine PaneraiRADIOMIR 8 DAYS GMT ORO ROSSO 45 MM (PAM 395)Polished red gold surrounding a brown dial brings an aura of up-to-the-minute modern luxury to Panerai’s Radiomir collection. Inside the case, Panerai’s own manual-winding Caliber P.2002/10 packs three spring barrels to guarantee eight days of power. The move-ment’s skeletonized bridges can be admired through a sapphire crystal exhibition back.

$39,800, 877.PANERAI, panerai.com



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UltimateComplication_WJ20.indd 110 10/17/12 11:53 AM

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The minute repeater o� ers a unique combination of music and time. “It is popular because the minute repeater is one of the most complex of horological cre-

ations, and maybe also because it is a poetic creation; it was invented around 1710 to make it possible to tell the time during the night when there was no electricity,” says François-Paul Journe, independent master watchmaker and founder of the F.P. Journe brand. “When you

activate the pusher on the side of the case, the complication ‘tells’ the time by

causing small hammers to strike minia-ture gongs, which chime the hours, the quarters and the minutes.”

Something else that distinguishes the minute repeater is that there aren’t many manufacturers who can master this

unique complication. According to Patrik Ho� mann, CEO, Ulysse Nardin, watch connoisseurs are interested in “buying a mechanical piece of art that has a compli-cated inner life,” Ho� mann says.

“Striking watches represent a challenge for a watchmaker, and there is ongoing competition to optimize the sound qual-ity of minute repeater mechanisms,” adds marketing director Stéphane Belmont of Jaeger-LeCoultre. “A real difference ex-ists between the models on the market, and it’s a challenge for a collector to be able to find the watch with the best pos-sible sound.”

For many people, the tourbillon is the gold standard in complicated watches, but the fact is that the minute repeater is far more di� cult to realize. “The minute repeater is much more complex than the tourbil-lon caliber,” confi rms Christophe Claret,

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The minute repeater o� ers a unique combination of music and time. “It is popular because the minute repeater is one of the most complex of horological cre-

ations, and maybe also because it is a poetic creation; it was invented around 1710 to make it possible to tell the time during the night when there was no electricity,” says François-Paul Journe, independent master watchmaker and founder of the F.P. Journe brand. “When you

activate the pusher on the side of the case, the complication ‘tells’ the time by

causing small hammers to strike minia-ture gongs, which chime the hours, the quarters and the minutes.”

Something else that distinguishes the minute repeater is that there aren’t many manufacturers who can master this

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“It is popular because the minute repeater is one of the most complex of horological creations.” —-

F.P. Journe's ultrathin Repetition Souveraine with fl at

gong and patented striking mechanism, $180,980

Franck Muller's Cintrée Curvex Minute Repeater Tourbillon in white gold with exhibition back, $333,400

UltimateComplication_WJ20.indd 112 10/17/12 3:34 PM

BALL Watch USA www.ballwatch.com Tel: 727-896-4278

“Accuracy is everythingwhen you command undersea

military operations.”

E.D. Marshall Scottsdale, AZ | Time Spot Thousand Oaks, CA | Old Northeast Jewelers St. Pete & Tampa, FL | Exquisite Timepieces Naples, FL Windsor Jewelers Augusta, GA | Abt Time Boutique Glenview, IL | Long’s Jewelers Boston, MA | Continental Diamond St. Louis Park, MNLondon Jewelers Greenvale, NY | Josepeh Edwards New York, NY | Shannon Fine Jewelers Houston & The Woodlands

WJ20_ball_1012_ee.indd 1 10/12/12 4:15 PM

OOOOOOprincipal of his own complicated movement house, which specializes in both minute repeat-ers and tourbillons. “The reason is simple: in the tourbillon watch, only the tourbillon cage itself is complex to achieve, the rest of the movement is conventional; for a quality minute repeater, the entire repetition mechanism must be integrated into the movement. In addition, the number of components is much greater.”

A minute repeater also requires more time on the watchmaker’s bench. “A well-trained watchmaker takes three to four weeks to assemble a minute repeater,” details Ulysse Nardin’s Ho� man. “The integration of all the functions of a minute repeater into the limited space of a watch is a challenge. The movement cannot be neglected, but the chiming mechanism also needs space because its sound de-pends greatly on the energy allocated to the ham-mers. In addition, sound quality is improved when free space is available in the case.”

Pierre Michel Golay, director of R&D at Franck Muller, agrees. “The design and execution of the minute repeater is most di� cult,” Golay contin-ues. “We have to fi nd the perfect power balance between the di� erent functions of the chimes, and we have to stabilize the speed of the chiming sequences. The search for the optimum quality of sound and the right intensity is also a challenge.”

The challenges inherent in minute repeaters are legion. The watch has to tell precise time, but the striking mechanism has to be precise as well, sound good and be reliable. It’s no easy task. “Min-ute repeaters are living, breathing machines,” says Larry Pettinelli, president for Patek Philippe in New York. “Not only do they have to work on com-mand but create a crisp clear sound that resonates well within the case. Optimal metals need to be ex-plored in addition to ensuring the correct amount of space is established between the movement and the case to produce perfect sound resonance.”

Assessing the sound of a minute repeater is subjective and depends on experience. “The qual-ity of sound is something that cannot be fully calculated in advance. It is always an empirical process with adjustments needed in order to ob-tain excellent sound,” says Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Bel-mont. “The sound of a watch depends on the form of the case, its waterproof qualities and the materi-als used. All of those aspects have to be adjusted in order to get the best sound.”

“For a quality minute repeater, the entire repetition mechanism must be integrated into the movement.” —


Jaeger-LeCoultre's Reverso Répétition Minutes à Rideau Venise with open dial, revealing the repeater mechanism, $327,500


Terrasport I Chronograph

This chronograph represents a new addition to the Terrasport family by Mühle-Glashütte. It combines

the timeless instrument look with the well-proven qualities of Mühle chronographs. The design

For more information please contact:

11.10.12 16:40

Mühle-Glashütte USA 727-896-8453 www.muehle-glashuette.de• •

E.D. Marshall Jewelers Scottsdale, AZ | Feldmar Watch Co. Los Angeles, CA | Partita Custom Design San Francisco, CA | Right Time Denver & Highlands Ranch, COExquisite Timepieces Naples, NC | Old Northeast Jewelers St. Petersburg & Tampa, FL | Little Treasury Jewelers Gambrills, MD | Watch Buys Raleigh, NC

Joseph Edwards New York, NY | Martin Pulli Phliadelphia, PA | Timeless Watch Exchange Frisco, TX | Fox’s Gem Shop Seattle, WA

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Muhle_WatchJournal_Terrasport_Chrono_NovDec2012.pdf 1 10/11/2012 12:40:22 PM

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When it all comes together in just the right way, the completed minute repeater is a truly amazing timepiece. “The harmo-nious sound and the motion of the deli-cately handcrafted parts create emotion and evoke passion considering that they are initiated by a complex mechanism of hundreds of tiny, precision pieces, such

as bridges, wheels, gongs and levers,” says Ulysse Nardin’s Ho mann. “In this age of high technology, this amaz-ing mechanical complication awakens

in us awe and admiration for craftsman-ship and tradition.”

When a minute repeater and a tourbillon come together, it’s more complicated than simply fi tting them inside the same watch

case. “Adding a single complication can more than double the possibility of chal-lenges arising. Multiple complications lead to more layers of a watch. In production, the layers have to coexist perfectly,” points out Patek’s Pettinelli. “It is the fi ne-tuning of the combined complications that requires the work of an expert watchmaker.”

Christophe Claret agrees that combining the two involves more than just the sum of their parts. “We combined these two complications for the fi rst time in 1992,” Claret says. “The complexity of such a com-bination is in integrating them correctly. Indeed, there are real challenges for us with each new confi guration.”

The minute repeater is not only an incredibly complex complication, it is a poetic one as well. It adds the dimension of sound to timekeeping. It requires engineer-ing, handcraftsmanship and expert fi ne-tuning. And for connoisseurs interested in the ultimate horological complication, it’s music to the ears.

When it all comes together in just the right way, the completed minute repeater is a truly amazing timepiece. “The harmo-nious sound and the motion of the deli-cately handcrafted parts create emotion and evoke passion considering that they are initiated by a complex mechanism of hundreds of tiny, precision pieces, such

as bridges, wheels, gongs and levers,” says Ulysse Nardin’s Ho mann. “In this age of high technology, this amaz-ing mechanical complication awakens

in us awe and admiration for craftsman-ship and tradition.”

When a minute repeater and a tourbillon come together, it’s more complicated than simply fi tting them inside the same watch

“The harmonious sound and the motion of the delicately handcrafted parts create emotion and evoke passion.” —


Patek Philippe's Ref. 5207R minute repeater with tourbillon

and perpetual calendar, price upon request

Ulysse Nardin's Alexander the Great Minute Repeater Westminster Carillon Tourbillon Jaquemarts with animated fi gures, price upon request

UltimateComplication_WJ20.indd 116 10/17/12 3:34 PM

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EXPERTS PUT CHRONOGRAPH HABITS UNDER THE LOUPEB Y K E I T H W . S T R A N D B E R G

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IN THE WORLD OF COMPLICATED WATCHES, the chronograph is king. It seems there is no overestimating the mass appeal of a chronograph’s sporty aura, technical dial and pushbuttons. Over the years, I’ve come across many chronograph owners who admit buying these timekeepers more for their looks than for their performance (including some who don’t even know how to operate a chronograph). At the opposite end of this spectrum are watch afi cionados who regularly use their chronographs and some who pre-fer to keep the chronograph function running at all times. Essentially, they are using the chronograph’s central sec-onds hand as a running seconds hand, preferring it over a typical chro-

nograph’s small seconds display. And this begs the question of whether or not it’s advisable to keep a chronograph run-ning constantly. Does the practice damage the movement, rob from the power reserve or result in shorter service inter-vals? What are the pros and cons?

To find out, I spoke with experts from a few of the in-dustry’s leading chronograph makers. The consensus is that there is no consensus. Some worry about the debili-tating effect on the movement, while others think running the chronograph continuously is unlikely to affect per-formance. Still others believe that continuously running

the chronograph is preferable to never running the chronograph.


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T H E I N D I V I D U A L I S T“It’s a matter of preference,” says Ron Jackson, president, Franck Muller USA. “I always like to keep my chronograph running in order to be able to see the various hands of the complication moving. Plus, when the chronograph is stopped and reset to zero, the chronograph seconds hand blocks the view of the brand name on the dial.”

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Franck Muller Conquistador Grand

Prix automatic chronograph in rose

gold and titanium, $28,800

RunningChronos_WJ20.indd 119 10/17/12 1:49 PM

T H E P U R I S T“There is not really a reason to run your chro-nograph all the time. The function of the chro-nograph is meant to measure a specifi c time sequence and is limited in the interval it can measure,” says Sébastien Bulliard, a watch-maker specializing in movement prototypes in the development department at Zenith. “After that time frame, it just starts over again. Nev-ertheless, if someone wishes to run the chrono function all the time, it is not a problem. Zenith tests its chronos thoroughly—especially since high-frequency chronographs have been our specialty since 1969—in order to ensure that the watch functions just as well with or without the chrono function activated.”

T H E P O L I T I C I A N“The B01 movement [an in-house automatic column-wheel chronograph caliber] has been designed and tested both ways, with the chrono running and without, so, for us, it doesn’t matter,” explains Jean Paul Girardin, executive vice president at Breitling. “With the level of amplitude of this movement and the power reserve, whether or not the chronograph is running makes little di� erence. If someone wants to wear his watch with the chronograph running all the time, that won’t hurt it.”


Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 automatic column-wheel chronograph in steel, $9,000

Breitling Transocean Chronograph

Unitime in steel with Breitling Caliber 05,

$11,200

Hanhart Pioneer Stealth 1882 limited edition in DLC steel, $10,500

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 automatic column-wheel chronograph in steel, $9,000

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12:2012

Hanhart Pioneer Stealth 1882 limited edition in DLC steel, $10,500

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T H E G E A R H E A DThomas Morf, CEO of Hanhart, a Swiss-German com-pany specializing in chronographs, believes that since the chronograph is about performance, using it should contribute to maintaining the mechanism in working order. “These days, a chronograph is rarely used as it was built to be used,” he says. “It’s like the engine of a car—you should use the car in order to keep the engine running smoothly. The same thing is true for chrono-graphs—use the chronograph function in order keep it working perfectly.”

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Field Valjoux Automatic Chronograph No. 1861: 48mm, stainless steel case, screw case back and screw down crown, antirefl ective sapphire crystal, water resistant to 100 meters, black buffalo leather strap with contrast stitch and signature buckle, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made. Preferred timepiece of automotive enthusiasts.

www.luminox.com

facebook.com/Luminox

WJ20_luminox_1003_ee.indd 1 10/3/12 5:48 PM

T H E E N G I N E E RPhilip Barat, head of research and development at Patek Philippe, says that the decision to run or not to run the chronograph should depend upon the type of chrono-graph mechanism in a watch. He cites his company’s in-house Caliber CH 28-520, used in watches like Ref. 5961P annual calendar chronograph, as an example: “With the Patek Philippe self-winding CH 28-520, which has a vertical clutch, the chronograph hand can be kept running without any influence on the movement’s preci-sion, whereas, with a horizontal clutch system, running the chronograph has an influence on the movement’s precision and creates more wear.”

Pierre DeRoche GrandCliff TNT

Penta automatic fl yback chro-

nograph, with a Dubois Dépraz

movement, CHF16,600

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||||||||||||||||||T H E C O N S E R V A T I O N I S TThe global president and CEO of TAG Heuer, Jean-Christophe Babin, uses a car metaphor as well, but his recommendation is not to run the chronograph all the time. “It’s not a good idea to leave your car running when it’s not in use,” he says. “The same applies to chronographs. If wearers want to keep their chronographs running permanently, they can, but we wouldn’t recommend it. It is best to use the chronograph only when it is needed.” TAG Heuer, it should be noted, is the maker of ultra-high-fre-quency chronographs such as the 3.6 million bph Mikrotimer Flying 1000, which can blast through its power reserve in a matter of minutes.

Pierre DeRoche GrandCliff TNT

Penta automatic fl yback chro-

nograph, with a Dubois Dépraz


T H E P R A G M A T I S TPascal Dubois, director and co-owner at Dubois Dépraz, a Swiss company that specializes in produc-ing chronograph complications, says that running the chronograph all the time should “normally have no technical impact on a correctly developed watch. Of course, keeping the chronograph running has an infl uence on the power reserve,” he adds. “The chro-nograph needs a source of power in order to operate. This energy is taken from the mainspring and so can-not be distributed to the main movement; therefore, it will run down early.”

“If you keep the chronograph running continuously, some components could be degraded more quickly,” Dubois continues. “However, the sources of these kinds of problems are well known by developers and are planned for, so additional service will probably not be necessary.”

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TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre

1887 automatic chronograph in

steel, $6,200

Patek Philippe Ref. 7071G Ladies First Chronograph in white gold and diamonds, $98,000


www.gevrilgroup.comphone: 866.425.9882

WJ20_louiserard_1004_ee.indd 1 10/4/12 3:47 PM

Fashion124


Dior_WJ20_1015.indd 124 10/17/12 11:32 AM

FashionP latesFa hionFa hionFa P

DIOR EXPRESSES ITS HAUTE COUTURE SPIRIT WITH WATCHES THAT MARRY MECHANICS WITH MÉTIERS D’ART by Laurie Kahle

In 1947, Christian Dior revolutionized women’s fashion with his New Look, which was defined by its feminine hourglass silhouette created by a cinched waist and voluminous skirt. After years of wartime sobriety in fashion, Dior ushered in a new era of lavish design, dramatically executed with sensuous materials and attention to detail, a pair-ing that continues to distinguish the house in fashion and timepieces alike.

DIOR EXPRESSES ITS HAUTE DIOR EXPRESSES ITS HAUTE COUTURE SPIRIT WITH WATCHES COUTURE SPIRIT WITH WATCHES THAT MARRY MECHANICS WITH THAT MARRY MECHANICS WITH MÉTIERS D’ARTMÉTIERS D’ART

PICTURED ABOVE: One-of-a-kind Dior VIII Grand Bal Haute Couture No. 2 in white gold and black ceramic with amethysts, sugilite, mother-of-pearl and pink sapphires

Dior_WJ20_1015.indd 125 10/17/12 11:32 AM


Unlike many fashion watch brands that emphasize style over substance, Dior was among the pioneers that ambi-tiously sought to combine the two. Dior’s Grand Bal VIII range, introduced in 2011, is the latest, and perhaps most expres-sive, endeavor to harmonize the creativ-ity of haute couture with the technical demands of haute horlogerie.

Synergy between advanced engineer-ing and time-honored métiers d’art is evident throughout the expanding line of timepieces. For example, the mechanical watches are powered by Dior’s Inverse Caliber, which positions the spinning wind-ing rotor on the dial side, where it visibly evokes the swirl of a ball gown with every movement of the wearer’s wrist. Developed through a collaboration of Les Ateliers Horlogers Dior, movement manufacturer Soprod and watchmaker Frédéric Jouvenot,

the Inverse Caliber provides the house’s prolifi c artistic talents with a blank canvas upon which to create their visions. Devel-oping such inventive original movements is nothing new for Dior, says Laurence Nicolas, president of Dior Timepieces. She references the Dior 8 Fuseaux Horaires caliber, which created a kinetic e� ect with the rotation of its satellite subdial,

showing the time in eight zones world-wide; a delicate tourbillon built with trans-parent sapphire crystal elements; and an intriguing mystery watch, created with layers of sapphire crystal discs.

Because the Dior VIII Grand Bal de-signs vary—each evocative of a decorative discipline used in haute couture produc-tion, such as lacemaking, embroidery or

Unlike many fashion watch brands that emphasize style over substance, Dior was among the pioneers that ambi-tiously sought to combine the two. Dior’s Grand Bal VIII range, introduced in 2011, is the latest, and perhaps most expres-sive, endeavor to harmonize the creativ-

with the technical

Synergy between advanced engineer- is

evident throughout the expanding line of

Dior VIII Grand Bal Plumes in black ceramic, diamonds and feathers

The visible spinning winding rotor evokes the swirl of a ball gown with every movement of the wearer’s wrist.

Dior_WJ20_1015.indd 126 10/17/12 1:51 PM

d e d i c a t e d t o p e r f e c t i o n

AVAILABLE AT:

ASTRON. The search for totally precise time, everywhere on the planet, is over. By developing a low-energy-consumption GPS receiver, Seiko has been able to create a watch that connects to the GPS network and uses it to identify both time of day and time zone. The new Astron recognizes all 39 time zones on earth, is precise to one second every 100,000 years, and by taking all the energy it needs from light, never needs a battery change. If you can see the sky, you will know the local time, anywhere on our planet. Finally, time and space are united in a prestige watch. SeikoUSA.com

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the new seiko astron gps solar. at last, a watch that adjusts to your time zone.

© 2

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ATCH

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WJ20_seiko_1005_ee.indd 1 10/5/12 4:33 PM

pleating—the watchmakers must adapt the movement to each concept. “Our main challenge concerning this caliber was to make possible, in the quite conservative Swiss watchmaking universe, the creative ideas of our Parisian studio,” explains Nicolas. “Every new design obliges us to re-calculate the total inertia of the movement.”

Last year’s introductory range of fi ve pieces has been expanded this year with a

new Résille model, which emulates netting, and a Plumes variation, with feathers on the oscillating weight. This use of feath-ers posed a particular challenge because the material is so light and airy. “When Les Ateliers Horlogers Dior at La Chaux-de-Fonds in Switzerland received the sketch, they could immediately foresee the di� culties in developing an oscillat-ing weight, not covered with feathers, but composed of feathers placed on invisible white gold stays (somewhat like corset stays),” says Nicolas. “After researching for six months, they found the right bird,

an Italian rooster, from which they could recut the feathers to obtain the most amaz-ing fl u� y e� ect with the right density.”

Also noteworthy is Dior’s use of semi-precious stones, such as turquoise, tiger’s eye and malachite, often combined with sparkling diamonds, rubies, sapphires and other precious gems. While the La D de Dior collections have featured color-ful stone dials for years, the new Dior VIII Grand Bal Haute Couture pieces auda-ciously combine the stones with various métiers d’art, including engraving, marque-try, lapidary work and gemsetting.

Last year’s introductory range of fi ve pieces has been expanded this year with a

the di� culties in developing an oscillat-ing weight, not covered with feathers, but composed of feathers placed on invisible white gold stays (somewhat like corset stays),” says Nicolas. “After researching for six months, they found the right bird,

composed of feathers placed on invisible white gold stays (somewhat like corset stays),” says Nicolas. “After researching for six months, they found the right bird,


Every new designOBLIGES US TO RECALCULATE THE

TOTAL INERTIA OF THE MOVEMENT.”

——L A U R E N C E N I C O L A S

“‘‘

pleating—the watchmakers must adapt new Résille model, which emulates net an Italian rooster, from which they could

The back of the same piece, featuring a tinted sapphire crystal exhibition window

One-of-a-kind Dior VIII Grand Bal Haute Couture No. 4 in white gold and ceramic with sapphires, mother-of-pearl, turquoise and diamonds

Dior VIII Grand Bal Résille in black ceramic and diamonds

Dior_WJ20_1015.indd 128 10/17/12 11:33 AM

WJ18_gerge_0605_ee.indd 1 6/5/12 11:24 AM

For example, the fi rst in the series mixes the collection’s slick high-tech black ceramic case and bracelet with a luminous Australian opal dial, a bezel set with baguette-cut tsavorite garnets and an oscillating weight made of mother-of-pearl marquetry. The Model No. 5 o ers a colorful variation on the theme with a jade dial set with diamonds and emeralds and a rotor fashioned from engraved malachite. “The lapidary work is unusual, because we ask the craftsmen to engrave materi-als, set stones on other stones, or create a very refi ned marquetry,” explains Nicolas. “All these steps require extreme precision, particularly when they have to cut a very

fragile opal to create the thinnest stone possible to be placed on the dial.”

Such time-honored decorative crafts also infuse the Dior Pièce Unique Collec-tion, which added several one-of-a-kind designs this year. Powered by sister brand Zenith’s Elite automatic movement, these colorful confections blend sparkling gems, mother-of-pearl marquetry and precious fabrics such as silk organza or pleated tulle, used for the straps.

Still, the Dior VIII Grand Bal collection makes the most comprehensive statement

on the synergy between high fashion and mechanical watchmaking with its bold color combinations, exotic materials, un-conventional movement design and deco-rative handcrafts. According to Nicolas, Christian Dior once said, “The human hand gives the objet d’art its unique character.” Indeed, at Dior, these time-honored crafts are being applied with contemporary aplomb to enrich Dior watches with charac-teristic zest—something that Dior famously believed is the secret to beauty. dior.com


For example, the fi rst in the series

One-of-a-kind Dior VIII Grand Bal Haute Couture No. 5 in white gold and ceramic with sapphires, jade, malachite, diamonds and emeralds

Dior_WJ20_1015.indd 130 10/17/12 11:33 AM

You don’t need a ticket to enjoy MotoArt’s extensive line of airline fuselage pieces constructed from Boeing, Lockheed or Douglas aircraft. Room dividers, partitions, desks, wall art, and more are created with the original windows still intact for an elegant view in any office or home environment.

Options include a variety of sizes and configurations, window illuminations, custom graphics and original paint schemes, as well as MotoArt’s exclusive mirror and satin polish finishes.

WITH A VIEW

A WINDOW SEAT

Share the gift of aviation hiStory with Motoart’S line of

fuSelage fraMeS and wall hangerS. viSit Motoart.coM

MotoArt Studios 119 Standard Street, El Segundo, CA 90245 Tel: 310.375.4531 [email protected]

www.motoart.com

Set YouR SightS high thiS SeASon

WJ20_motoart_1008_ee.indd 1 10/8/12 4:17 PM

FredSegal.indd 1 10/12/12 6:06 PM

e s t. 1 9 6 1

FredSegal.indd 2 10/12/12 6:06 PM

The venue was prime, the crowd was diverse and enthusi-astic, the exhibits included live watchmaking demonstrations and an immersive horologi-cal history display presented by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. No wonder this two-day event draws exhibiting brands such as Baume & Mercier, Bulgari, Chopard, De Bethune, Dior, Girard-Perregaux, Harry Winston, Ralph Lauren, Richard Mille and TAG Heuer, among others. Many of the exhibiting

brands used the event to show new pieces or to launch new con-cepts, which makes the gather-ing an even bigger draw. Bulgari revealed its new Octo automatic time/date watch with manu-facture movement and 50-hour power reserve. Harry Winston displayed its Opus 12 timepiece. And TAG Heuer unveiled its Mikrogirder watch, which uses a reinvented regulator to produce 7.2 million bph and drive a chro-nograph seconds hand accurate to 5/10,000ths of a second.

A special exhibit of Swatch watches and prototypes from the exceptional $6.5 million Blum Collection welcomed a steady stream of visitors. The 239-piece collection includes a number of never-before-seen production variants and special art watches designed by talents such as Keith Haring, Mimmo Paladino and Sam Francis and is the most complete collection of Swatch watches in the world. There was also a special exhibit of rare gems, including a rainbow of col-ored diamonds, presented by the Sotheby’s Diamonds Collection.

Because numerous watch exhibitors bring their top executives or watchmakers to TimeCrafters, the event also o� ers an opportunity to speak one-on-one with the people behind the watches and learn more about the inspiration for their designs. Girard-Perregaux notably brought both Sowind Group (Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard) CEO Michele Sofi sti and master watchmaker Dominique Loiseau to the armory to present a new concept that, according to Sofi sti, will be a major infl u-ence on the future of Girard-Perregaux’s complications.

Loiseau is the architect of both the concept and a

forthcoming ultra-complicated, convention-bucking move-ment, developed according to the priciples of Loiseau’s own “Manifesto of Time,” which advocates applying radical creativity to watchmaking. Instead of beginning with a simple base movement and adding complications to it, Girard-Perregaux will begin with Loiseau’s unconven-tional grand complication and subtract functions in order to create a family of less compli-cated manufacture movements. This reverse approach to watchmaking refl ects Loiseau’s unique perspective, inspired by the Surrealists. “Watchmaking has always been adept at using the codes of conventional and rational thought to pursue a logical evolution of the industry, but this view has also created constraints,” says the watchmaker. “We need to serve the interests of freedom and creativity, to embrace a new disorder in watchmaking.”

Intriguing. Unexpected. Original. All descriptors that apply equally well to the works of Girard-Perregaux and other exhibiting watchmakers as to the TimeCrafters show itself.

timecrafters.com

WATCH JOURNAL REVIEWTIMECRAFTERS | A NEW YORK MOMENT

TEXT BY: MARIE A. PICON

+


The second annual TimeCrafters exhibition opened at the Park Avenue Armory in midtown Manhattan on September 14, following a private preview for VIPs and the media on the previous evening. The objective of the fl edg-ling but expanding annual event is to welcome the public to a presentation of an exceptional selection of timepieces new and old from some of the world’s most esteemed manufacturers.

PH

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MANY OF THE EXHIBITING BRANDS USED THE EVENT TO SHOW NEW PIECES OR TO LAUNCH NEW CONCEPTS.

The Blum Collection at TimeCrafters

Movement assembly demonstration at TimeCrafters

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DIPLOMATIC RELATIONS With views of Manhattan Island and the Statue of Liberty in the background, Swiss watch brand Audemars Piguet hosted its annual Ambassador’s Cup golf tournament at Jersey City’s Liberty National Golf Club on the Hudson River in late August. The pro-am event brought together professional golfers from Audemars Piguet’s enviable roster of brand ambassadors—including Rory McIlroy, Ian Poulter, Graeme McDowell, and Lee Westwood—with Audemars Piguet clients. Also in August, Audemars Piguet acted as o�cial timekeeper of the Barclays 2012 at Bethpage Black in Farmingdale, New York, where McIlroy, McDowell, Poulter and Westwood competed. Audemars Piguet provided a self-branded wall clock as a prize for first place and golf bags as a second-place prize. The brand’s lineup of golf ambassadors also includes Cristie Kerr, Morgan Pressel, Belén Mozo, Miguel Angel Jiménez, Darren Clarke and Anthony Kim, all of whom wear Audemars Piguet Royal Oak or Royal Oak O�shore watches. 888.214.6858, audemarspiguet.com

DIVING FOR TREASURE In a unique promotion marking the relaunch of the Aquadive watch brand, the Aquadive Great Watch Hunt began in September with the release of a cryptic clue. The challenge is to find one of several Aquadive Bathyscaphe 100 watches ($1,990), hidden below the surface by well-known divers in legendary diving destinations. The first clue led adventurers to a watch secreted somewhere in the Midwestern United States by master dive instructor Jimmy Sommers. Each month through May 2013, a new clue will lead divers to a di�erent location and another watch. The new Aquadive watch line is an update of the popular Aquadive of the 1960s. Aquadive president Rick Marei says, “We’ve modernized the sleek look of the original watches, making them bigger and bolder but retaining the character that made the Aquadive the dive watch to wear back in the early days of recreational diving.” The collection ($1,490–$2,990) includes stainless steel, DLC and limited edition versions. There is also a 5,000-meter diver and a special edition made from new-old-stock parts. aquadive.com

AP golf ambassadors Lee Westwood, Rory McIlroy, Graeme McDowell and Ian Poulter

Driving the Passione Engadina

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+EVENT WATCH

EVENT REPORT | WHO’S DOING WHAT, WHERE AND WHY IN THE WATCH INDUSTRY

MADE IN ITALY In late August, Eberhard & Co. exhibited its passion for the world of vintage cars by tak-ing part, as premier sponsor, in Switzerland’s Passione Engadina, a vintage car rally exclu-sively for pre-1982 Italian-made cars. The rally wound through three di�erent moun-tain passes in the St. Moritz region on the first day and enjoyed a Concours d’Elegance in the historical centre of St. Moritz on

the second day. As part of the awards ceremony that concluded the competition weekend, Eberhard & Co. presented the winning teams with watches. The winners in the pre-1947 category received a Tazio Nuvolari chronograph and a Gilda ladies’ watch; the winners in the pre-1982 category were awarded the new Champion V chro-nograph; and the winners in the sports car category took away the Traversetolo chronograph. 603.206.5195, eberhard-co-watches.ch

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Tazio Nuvolari chronograph

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tk cap-tion

NEXT LEVEL Alpina Genève partnered with Level 5 Motorsports during the legendary 24 Hours of Le Mans. Led by founder Scott Tucker and driving Honda Performance Development’s HPD ARX-03b, the 2012 team includes ambitious drivers Luis Diaz and Christophe Bouchut. Tucker created Level 5 Motorsports in 2006 and won his fi rst victory in the Ferrari Challenge in 2007; the team has won fi ve major victories in the past two years. And for Tucker’s team, Alpina created the Alpina Racing Automatic, a 47-mm chronograph in stainless steel ($1,295). According to its maker, the watch o� ers the perfect combination of beauty, strength and pre-cision. A transparent caseback provides a view of the self-winding movement. 877.619.2824, alpina-watches.com

Alpina Racing Automatic

PARACHUTING IN Marking its entry into the Colombian market, Bell & Ross cel-ebrated its fi rst airshow at the Guaymaral airport in Bogotá on September 8. The watch brand sponsored the event in partnership with the Aeroclub de Colombia and Joyería Bauer. The show included three aerial competitions, acrobat-ic exhibitions and parachuting events. And the Colombian armed forces exhibited military aircraft. Fashion model, parachutist and extreme sports enthusiast Bianca Arango, a Bell & Ross brand ambassador in Colombia, wore a BRS Black Phantom with diamonds during a parachute jump. The fun-fi lled event included a ra� e for a BR123 Original, and was capped by a fashion show inspired by avia-tor Amelia Earhart and featuring Bell & Ross timepieces. 888.307.7887, bellross.com

Bianca Arango for Bell & Ross

and was capped by a fashion show inspired by avia-tor Amelia Earhart and featuring Bell & Ross timepieces. 888.307.7887, bellross.com


+EVENT WATCH


+BRS Black Phantom

TOUR DATES Breguet wrapped up its nationwide tour of historical aviation-inspired timepieces in Los Angeles in August. Titled “Breguet: Watchmaker, Aviator, Innovator,” the traveling exhibit debuted on June 14 in New York City, aboard the legendary USS Intrepid, before embarking on a two-month tour that included stops in Bal Harbour, Fla., and Beverly Hills, Calif. The exhibit traces the history of Breguet in aviation through a variety of historical timepieces, including the original 1950s Breguet Type XX. Today’s Breguet Type XXII chronograph o� ers an aes-thetic reinterpretation of the legendary Type XX combined with a high-precision movement, featuring a silicon escapement and balance spring with frequency of 10 Hz (72,000 bph). The watch’s extremely high frequency enables it to accu-rately indicate 20ths of a second. 866.458.7488, breguet.com

Breguet’s aviation history on exhibit


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Fine watches stay wound while their owners unwind.

The Avanti Convertible, with jewelry storage, is available in three or six winder models, and easily upgrades from three to six as your collection grows. It has the world’s only self-programming electronic system—patented lithium powered, with a five-year battery life guaranteed.

View the AVAnTI ConVerTIble and all of our luxury watchwinders at orbita.com.

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AMERICAN TOUCHPOINT The MotoGP motorcycle racing series came to the US for two races this summer at California’s Mazda Motor Speedway Laguna Seca and Indiana’s Indianapolis Motor Speedway. As MotoGP’s o� cial timekeeper, Tissot Swiss Watches joined leading motorcycle journalists to present the pole position awards to two of the sport’s leading riders, Jorge Lorenzo (in Laguna Seca) and Dani Pedrosa (in Indianapolis). Tissot exhibited its T-Touch Expert quartz chronograph in stainless steel ($975), featuring 15 touch-activated functions. Tissot ambassador and MotoGP champ Nicky Hayden was seen wearing the latest Tissot T-Race Limited Edition. 800.284.7768, tissot.ch


+EVENT WATCH


CLOSED CIRCUIT O� cine Panerai concluded its third annual Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge North American Circuit as sponsor of the Museum of Yachting Classic Yacht Regatta in Newport, Rhode Island, on September 1–2. The competition drew 55 classic sailing vessels, which hoisted yacht club pen-nants and Panerai fl ags to circle the inner harbor for the Sunday morning parade preceding the fi nal race of the regatta. With the competition con-cluded, captains and crew members joined in a festive dinner and awards ceremony. Gary Gregory’s Valiant, a 1970 Sparkman & Stephen’s 12-meter, took top honors in the Classic A divi-sion, as well as bringing home the Panerai Trophy for top performance in the overall series. The Classic B division award was claimed by the 8-meter Fife-designed Quest, owned by Diane Palm, who also walked away with the overall fi rst-place prize for the regatta, a Panerai Radiomir Black Seal Automatic 45 MM (PAM 287). paneraiclassicyachtschallenge.com, moy.org

HEART OF GOLD Girard-Perregaux celebrated Fashion’s Night Out in New York City by honoring Olympic gold medalist Alex Morgan of the US Women’s National Soccer Team. Morgan helped lead her team to gold during the London Olympics with three goals and four assists. Guests took in a display of rose gold and white gold Girard-Perregaux timepieces and enjoyed foods inspired by the evening’s gold theme. “We are very happy to honor Alex Morgan and her accomplishments during the games these past months,” says Michael Margolis, president of Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard in the Americas. “Her work and dedication on and o¥ the fi eld are an inspiration to us all.” Morgan, a fan of the Swiss watch brand,

was seen wearing a Girard-Perregaux Cat’s Eye watch, which brings together a feminine shape and a complicated movement. The Cat’s Eye Small Seconds features a rose gold case and bezel set with diamonds and an automatic manufacture movement. 877.846.3447, girard-perregaux.com

Panerai on parade in Newport

MotoGP in the USA

Gold medalist Alex Morgan

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the sport’s leading riders, Jorge Lorenzo (in Laguna Seca)

competition drew 55 classic sailing vessels, which hoisted yacht club pen-nants and Panerai fl ags to circle the inner harbor for the Sunday morning parade preceding the fi nal race of the regatta. With the competition con-cluded, captains and crew members joined in a festive dinner and awards ceremony. Gary Gregory’s 1970 Sparkman & Stephen’s 12-meter, took top honors in the Classic A divi-sion, as well as bringing home the Panerai Trophy for top performance in the overall series. The Classic B division award was claimed by the 8-meter Fife-designed by Diane Palm, who also walked away with the overall fi rst-place prize for the regatta, a Panerai Radiomir Black Seal Automatic 45 MM (PAM 287). paneraiclassicyachtschallenge.com, moy.orgThe multi-

function T-Touch Expert

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+EVENT WATCH


Ulysse Nardin Blue Sea limited edition

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Timed by Westime at the Del Mar Thoroughbred ClubWEST COAST COOL California watch retailer Westime served as o�cial timekeeper of the 75th season of horseracing at the Del Mar Thoroughbred Club in Southern California. Over seven weeks of racing, opening on July 18, Westime showcased a di�erent watch each week in the DMTC’s members-only Turf Club. Additionally, the top-performing jockey and trainer of the season were awarded watches from Westime, presented at a trackside ceremony on the final race day. “Westime is very proud to part-ner with the Del Mar Thoroughbred Club,” says Westime president Greg Simonian. “Watches and horseracing have been inextricably linked for centuries—the sport even inspired watchmakers to invent new ways to track time! And with our new Westime La Jolla boutique located just minutes from the iconic Del Mar track, the partnership couldn’t be more fitting.” westime.com

Bang-up JoB O�cial timekeeper of Ferrari, Scuderia Ferrari and the Ferrari Challenge, Swiss watch brand Hublot hosted an exclusive cocktail party at the Ferrari showroom on Park Avenue in New York to celebrate the US debut of its Big Bang Ferrari Titanium and scratch-resistant Magic Gold timepieces. Hublot transformed the showroom for the celebration with art-work of the timepieces, a Hublot-branded “pit crew” to greet arriving guests

and a queue of Ferrari sports cars lighting up the red carpet. VIP guests, including Ferrari North America president and CEO Marco Mattiacci, football free agent Plaxico Burress and his wife, Ti�any, turned out to admire the new watches, which were flown in from Geneva especially for the occasion. Throughout the evening, guests enjoyed Swiss- and Italian-inspired hors d’oeuvres, a bar serving Italian spirits, and entertainment by DJ Mia Moretti. 800.536.0636, hublot.ch

Canadian deBut A one-of-a-kind Ulysse Nardin Blue Sea Jet Ski raised $18,000 for Toronto General Hospital’s multi-organ transplant program at an August event hosted jointly by Swiss watch brand Ulysse Nardin, Bandiera Jewellers and entertainer Frank D’Angelo. The hospital’s internationally recognized transplant program is the fourth largest in North America, performing more than 400 transplants annually, and many treatments developed there have been adopted as standard practices worldwide. The event also marked the Canadian debut of Ulysse Nardin’s Blue Sea lim-ited edition dive watch. Ulysse Nardin CEO Patrik Ho�mann states, “For over 166 years, Ulysse Nardin has been creating some of the most reliable marine chro-nometers in existence. We pride ourselves on providing time-pieces that we hope will touch the lives of those who have been so generous in our community.” 561.988.8600, ulysse-nardin.com


Ferrari’s Marco Mattiacci


The Kriëger Gigantium Skeleton Skeleton Collection. Visible skeleton movement shows special hand engraved carvings and skull with ruby eyes. Available in 18kt rose gold, 18kt white gold, PVD gun metal coating or all stainless steel, with or without diamonds. Impressively oversized at 43mm. Swiss made superlative mechanical wound movement with exhibition back.Anti-refl ective sapphire crystal. Limited edition. KRIEGERWATCH.COM - 800 441 8433

The Kriëger Gigantium Skeleton Skeleton Collection. Visible skeleton movement shows special hand engraved carvings and skull with ruby eyes. Available in 18kt rose gold, 18kt white gold, PVD gun metal coating or all stainless steel, with or without diamonds. Impressively oversized at 43mm. Swiss made superlative mechanical wound movement with exhibition back.

KRIEGERWATCH.COM - 800 441 8433

The Kriëger Gigantium Skeleton Skeleton Collection. Visible skeleton movement shows special hand engraved carvings and skull with ruby eyes. Available in 18kt rose gold, 18kt white gold, PVD gun metal coating or all stainless steel, with or without diamonds. Impressively oversized at 43mm. Swiss made superlative mechanical wound movement with exhibition back.

KRIEGERWATCH.COM - 800 441 8433

Available at:TOURNEAU For locations nationwide, or shop at home 800 348 3332LA VIANO JEWELERS Englewood NJ 201 569 4556LOUIS BLACK Toronto Ontario 416 920 8338KENJO JEWELERS New York NY 212 333 7220

Haute-Performance TM

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WW1 HEURE SAUTANTE PINK GOLD · With power reserve · Limited edition of 50 pieces · Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 [email protected] · e-Boutique: www.bellross.com

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WW1 HEURE SAUTANTE PINK GOLD · With power reserve · Limited edition of 50 pieces · Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 [email protected] · e-Boutique: www.bellross.com

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Invention of the Tourbillon, 1801

The Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon 5317 provides the perfect setting for Breguet’s most spectacular invention and undeniably the most beautiful of all horological complications, developed over 210 years ago to compensate for the effects of gravity. On the back, the “B-shaped” oscillating weight reveals the beauty of the meticulously hand-engraved movement. History is still being written...

Breguet, the innovator.

B R E G U E T B O U T I Q U E S – N E W Y O R K F I F T H A V E N U E 6 4 6 6 9 2 - 6 4 6 9 – N E W Y O R K M A D I S O N A V E N U E 2 12 2 8 8 - 4 0 14

B E V E R LY H I L L S 310 8 6 0 - 9 9 11 – B A L H A R B O U R 3 0 5 8 6 6 -10 6 1 – L A S V E G A S 7 0 2 73 3 - 74 3 5 – T O L L F R E E 8 7 7 - 4 0 3 - 8 1 6 2 – W W W. B R E G U E T. C O M

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watch journal 201212

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