walk - airnorth · tourists from all over australia flocked to the kimberley coast to indulge in a...
TRANSCRIPT
The new Aussiebusiness mag
AusBiz.
Aug/Sep 2018
THE GREATNESS OF GROOTE Step back in time
SCHOOLING WITH A DIFFERENCEYiramalay College and learning outside the classroom
TAKE
ME HOME
TO READ
AUSTRALIA'S TOP WALKS WILL GET YOU BACK TO NATURE
WalkWaythis
PANTONEProcess Black C
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FASHION / HOME
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PANTONEProcess Black C
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FASHION / HOME
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AUG/SEPT 2018 3
Welcome, customers, to your Airnorth flight today.Spring is now upon us! A fresh, new spirit spreads around the country and across
our network, with the events season in full swing. Sports, arts, carnivals or food, there’s something on for everyone.
From August 3 to 6, all eyes will be on Gove (Nhulunbuy) for the annual Garma Festival. Now in its 20th year, Garma brings together 2,500 political and business leaders from across the globe to discuss Australia’s Indigenous issues.
Over in the Kimberley region, Broome Turf Club hosts another racing schedule to excite punters. Make sure you’re at the iconic dirt racetrack on August 18 for the carnival’s main event, Broome Cup Day.
In Darwin, the arts take centre stage when the city comes alive during the Darwin Festival (August 9–26), and later when the Darwin International Film Festival hits town (September 13–23).
Moving around the East Coast, the lush green city of Toowoomba is expected to draw in thousands for the Carnival of Flowers (September 21–30). Gather your family and enjoy vibrant gardens, fresh produce and live music.
Whether you’re a new face or a loyal customer, we’d like to thank you for flying Airnorth. For now, we ask that you sit back and enjoy our friendly service.
Daniel Bowden Chief Executive Officer, Airnorth
Welcome aboard
22
contents
26 Top NT & WA AdventuresWe count down the most adrenaline-pumping experiences across the NT and WA.
30 PhilanthropyWe shine a spotlight on the Kimberley's Yiramalay School, which is at the forefront of improving Indigenous education.
34 ArtSpaceArresting art from Waringarri Aboriginal Arts Gallery in the heart of the Kimberley region.
20 Meet the ChefWe meet Simone Watts, Head Chef at Julaymba restaurant at the Daintree Eco Lodge. She's also an environmental activist on a mission to improve the world, one dish at a time.
22 Culture VultureExplore Groote Eylandt with us — a culturally rich island in the far reaches of the beautiful Northern Territory, where Indigenous culture has survived, and indeed thrived, for thousands of years.
12 Airnorth NewsRecap of the Airnorth Cable Beach Polo tournament.
14 Airnorth's Community SpotlightWorthy causes that Airnorth has been proud to support in the community.
16 Events CalendarDon’t miss what’s happening in Australia throughout August and September.
18 EntertainmentThe latest films, books and art to inspire you.
Features
38Upfront
AusBiz.Check out AusBiz. at the back of the magazine. In this edition, you’ll find:
TELECOMMUTINGMore Australians working from home means rising regional property prices.
AGRIBUSINESSWe investigate the booming business of bees and honey.
INFRASTRUCTUREThe latest innovative developments in healthcare design.
BIRTH BEATImproving maternity and antenatal care across rural Australia.
MAN & MACHINEWitness the wonder of wooden boats.
Cover StoryAustralia is home to some of the world's most epic and immersive walking holidays. We count down the best.
AUG/SEPT 2018 5JUNE/JULY 2018 3
KIMBERLEY FINE DIAMONDS
Top Destination with Top Souvenirs
KIMBERLEYFINEDIAMONDS.COM.AU
93 Konkerberry DrivePO Box 20Kununurra, Western Australia 6743 Phone: +61 (08) 9169 1133 Fax: +61 (08) 9168 1188 Freecall: 1800 852 144 (within Australia)
AUG/SEPT 2018 7
My partner and I own a few pieces of Australian Indigenous art that take pride of place in our lounge room. We have two well-paired paintings depicting a bushfire and then the bright native blooms of regrowth by Reggie Sultan which we bought at the Didgeridoo Hut and Art Gallery in Humpty Doo. Reggie was born in Alice Springs and loves to paint stories of his mother’s country, in Central Australia around Barrow Creek. We love the two paintings because together they represent the notion of getting rid of the old and celebrating the new. Just as in a human life, in nature there is the need to clear the land to ensure that future growth is as good as it can be, and I love the fiery strokes of the bushfire and the bright yellows, reds, greens and blues of the flowers that come after the destruction. Both paintings are full of energy and jump out at you to pay attention.
We also own another piece that I love to look at when I need to relax, by Brian ‘Binna’ Swindley from Mossman in Queensland. It depicts a bale of baby turtles. The backdrop is a dazzling blue and the canvas is covered in spots that are more like sparkling stars as seen through ripples of water, as if the painter is lying on the ocean floor watching the baby turtles make it out to sea after their terrified scramble down the beach to safety – as though the stars are shining above to show them the way.
So, for this issue, I was pleased to be able to write about two artists who continue to live and paint around Kununurra, in Outback Western Australia. I’ve been to Kununurra a few times, and it’s like a welcoming oasis in the desert. There are so many wonderful landscapes around Kununurra, including the unbelievably awesome Bungle Bungles. If you haven’t been, add it to your bucket list. The artists are Gloria Mengil and Dora Griffiths, and both are exceptional at their craft, with such different approaches. Read the story on page 34.
And while you do, sit back, relax and enjoy your flight to wherever you are headed in our great southern land.
publisher's letter
Together We Fly is published by Publishing ByChelle, (ABN: 78 621 375 853 ACN: 621 375 853)
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The reproduction of any content, in whole or part without prior written permission by the publisher is strictly
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publisher. All information in this magazine was believed to be correct at the time of publication, and all reasonable efforts have been made to contact copyright holders.
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The new Aussiebusiness mag
AusBiz.
Aug/Sep 2018
THE GREATNESS OF GROOTE Step back in time
SCHOOLING WITH A DIFFERENCEYiramalay College and learning outside the classroom
TAKE
ME HOME
TO READ
AUSTRALIA'S TOP WALKS WILL GET YOU BACK TO NATURE
WalkWaythis
Photo courtesy of Tourism WA
MICHELLE HESPE
SERVICING THE REMOTE TOP END AND BEYOND From Darwin to Alice Springs, rural to remote, Jetstream Electrical has its own fleet of aircraft ready to attend a job in the furthest corner of the Territory – and beyond. The list of destinations this Territory owned and operated company has flown to is long, and includes locations over the border in Western Australia and Queensland, the Tiwi Islands and even the Philippines and Timor-Leste. In remote areas the team plays a major role in keeping roadhouses
and service stations connected. ‘From repairing underground pipes and damaged bowsers to replacing corroded valves and carrying out preventative maintenance, our team can do it all,’ managing director Kevin Pettitt said. ‘We’ve installed unmanned service stations with bowsers and outdoor payment terminals in remote NT and WA, solar lighting on an island in Arnhem Land and generators for remote businesses affected by cable faults. This is just a handful of the jobs we carry out.’ Jetstream Electrical also completes communication works, such as installing long-range wireless networks, and the team
are experts in airconditioning issues. ‘Jobs like this are important in our cities and towns, but become even more so in remote areas, where a whole community might rely on a generator or fuel bowser,’ Kevin said. ‘These problems need to be fixed quickly, efficiently and cost-effectively. That’s where we come in. We offer a 24/7 service and can be mobilised at short notice because we have our own fleet of aircraft – including one for every application and price range. We don’t have to work around the schedules of others – when time is critical, Jetstream has you covered.’
When it comes to an electrical job done to the highest standards anywhere in
the Territory, Jetstream Electrical is the team you need to call.
Call today: (08) 8984 3434 www.jetstreamelectrical.com
Airconditioning | Breakdown Recovery | Smart Home Automation | Fuel Services | GSM Technology | Repairs & Maintenance | Wireless NetworksCeiling Fans | New Installations | Safety Switches | Phone and Data Cabling | Switchboard Upgrades | Smoke Alarms | Electrical Inspections
AUG/SEP 2018 9
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AUG/SEPT 2018 1312
For the eighth time since its inception, the 2018 Airnorth Cable Beach Polo graced Broome’s pristine sands this May.
On the weekend of May 26, tourists from all over Australia flocked to the Kimberley coast to indulge in a weekend of world-class polo, luxury hospitality and unmatched scenery.
Arguably boasting the best playing conditions in the world, Cable Beach attracts teams of polo players from all over Australia and abroad each year, making for competitive and exciting play.
With Perrier-Jouët champagne flowing, tropical beats pulsing and turquoise water glistening on the horizon, the glamorous VIP marquee proved yet again to be the hottest ticket in town. Airnorth Ambassador Chelsea Basham delighted the crowds with her sweet, folky crooning, perfectly complimenting the relaxed atmosphere.”
If there wasn’t enough action on the field during the day, VIP guests got their fill of entertainment away from the field. Kicking off on Friday the 25th, the Airnorth Cable Beach Polo opening party took place on the lush lawns of Mangrove Hotel, where partygoers wined and dined into the balmy Broome night.
Guests at the opening festivities got a first glimpse of the new bespoke Airnoth uniform, unveiled at a welcoming function hosted by Marilynne Paspaley at the historic McAlpine House.
Following the first polo match, guests were treated to an intimate Dinner Under the Stars, carefully prepared by celebrity chef Jack Stein and held on the polo field on a bed of white sand, under a ceiling of twinkling fairy lights.
Sunday marked the final day of polo action, after which the Paspaley Australasian Beach Polo Cup award ceremony took place. As the sun set behind the ochre cliffs, and the spectators danced on the sand to soak up the final moments of the weekend, it was hard not to be swept away by the unique magic of the Airnorth Cable Beach Polo. See the magic yourself next year.
Make sure you’re following @AirnorthAU on Facebook and Instagram to be one of the first to find out the dates for the 2019 Airnorth Cable Beach Polo.
Airnorth flies to Broome daily from Darwin and Kununurra. For more information, head to airnorth.com.au.
2018 Airnorth Cable Beach Polo recap
airnorth newsairnorth news
POLO IN
BROOME
14
Community spotlightNT TRAVELLING FILM FESTIVAL As a proud supporter of the Australian arts scene, Airnorth was delighted to partner with the Northern Territory Travelling Film Festival for 2018. In a wonderful display of quality film work, the festival showcased the Territory’s culture, stories and art to mainstream audiences in a spectacular open-air cinema setting.
A solar-powered screen travelled to remote Indigenous communities and key sites across the Territory, including Alice Springs, Tennant Creek and both Nitmiluk and Kakadu National Parks, displaying a two-hour program of local short films in pop-up cinema locations.
Airnorth is your gateway to the Territory. Fly from Darwin to Alice Springs, Tennant Creek, Katherine, Arnhem Land and beyond. For more information, head to airnorth.com.au.
GEORGE HELON, AIRNORTH’S CHRISTMAS CHEER COMPETITION WINNER In January, Airnorth ran a competition in Toowoomba, asking Darling Downs residents to nominate a special and deserving person from their community. Following an influx of entries we couldn’t choose just one winner to fly to Melbourne as a reward, so we chose three!
We’re delighted to share that one of our winners, George Helon, recently travelled from Toowoomba to Melbourne with us. Not only is George a patient, full-time carer for his elderly mother, he also suffers from rare medical conditions himself. Almost profoundly deaf, George has an inoperable brain tumour and also suffers from Pallister-Hall syndrome and gelastic seizures.
In the words of his mother Helen, “George is committed to always helping others less fortunate than himself and is the founder and administrator of two worldwide online support groups to help those with some of those conditions that he is afflicted with.”
True to form, George used a portion of his trip to give back to others. As well as being an audience member on The Project, he took time to participate in an interview by the staff of the Genetic Support Network of Victoria (GSNV) at the Murdoch Children’s Research Institute. The interview was recorded for the benefit of gelastic seizure and Pallister-Hall syndrome patients, plus carers, specialists, counsellors and community advocates.
Airnorth congratulates George on his remarkable contribution to society
airnorth news
FROM LEFT: KARI KLEIN (PROJECT COORDINATOR OF THE GSNV),
GEORGE HELON, MONICA FERRIE (CEO OF THE GSNV)
GEORGE ON THE SET OF THE PROJECT
TRAVEL
AUG/SEPT 2018 1716
What's on & what's hot
August 10–12Darwin Aboriginal Art FairDarwin NTMore than 60 Indigenous-owned art centres participate in this rich line-up of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art and culture. The program includes traditional dance, workshops, film, fashion and music. darwinaboriginalartfair.com.au
August 11National Indigenous Music AwardsDarwin NTPresented under the stars at Darwin’s historic amphitheatre,
the NIMAs bring together up-and-coming talent and established artists from all corners of Australia for a special celebration of Indigenous music. nima.musicnt.com.au
August 17–20Run LarapintaAlice Springs, MacDonnell Ranges NTAlong the spectacularly scenic Larapinta Trail, this four-day, four-stage running race is a unique way to experience one of Australia’s most renowned treks. rapidascent.com.au/runlarapinta
August 3–6
Garma FestivalEast Arnhem NTThis festival of unity aims to bring locals and visitors together in the largest celebration of the Yolngu people of north-east Arnhem Land, whose culture is one of the oldest on earth, dating back 40,000 years. garma.com.au
Desert Harmony Festival Tennant Creek NTExpect storytelling, youth workshops, music, dance and a red-dirt setting at this outback celebration of the Indigenous and multicultural demographic of the remote Barkly region.desertharmonyfestival.com
August 3–7
Compiled by: Sarah hinder
Our pick of the very best gigs, festivals, cultural and sporting events from around the country.
Events calendar
August 23–26The Redback Alice Springs NTThe Redback allows mountain-bike riders of all skill levels to tackle the single tracks around Australia’s Red Centre. rapidascent.com.au/theredback
August 23–September 20 Desert FestivalAlice Springs NTAlice Springs’ upbeat arts festival shares stories of the Red Centre and its rich desert culture through vibrant performances and workshops.desfest.com
August 24–26Freedom Day FestivalKalkaringi & Daguragu NTCommemorating the Gurindji elders who took part in the 1966 Wave Hill walk-off, this festival celebrates their success in procuring Aboriginal Land Rights.freedomday.com.au
August 25– September 2Shinju Matsuri Broome WAJapanese for “festival of the pearl”, Shinju Matsuri celebrates Broome’s early days as a producer of rare South Sea pearls. Main events include a Floating Lantern Matsuri and long-table feast on Cable Beach. shinjumatsuri.com.au
August 31–September 2Red CentreNATSAlice Springs NTOver Father’s Day weekend, this festival of wheels puts on a wild show of professional burnouts and drag racing. You don’t have to be a car enthusiast to belt out to the Aussie rock concert.redcentrenats.com.au
September 1Mahbilil FestivalJabiru NTExperience everything from bush tucker and traditional dance to arts and craft at this family-friendly event showcasing Kakadu culture. mahbililfestival.com
SEPTEMBER 7–9Kimberley Writers FestivalKununurra WAThis one-of-a-kind writers festival connects authors and readers at informal workshops, storytellings and brunches. proximitywa.org/festivals
September 21–30Toowoomba Carnival of Flowers Toowoomba QldDuring peak spring season, Toowoomba hosts live concerts, movies in the park, a food and wine festival, a polo competition and, of course, stunning floral displays.tcof.com.au
SEPTEMBER 4-8
Tour de TimorDili, TimorTour de Timor is a five-day cycling event starting and finishing in Dili, Timor. Riders can expect over 10,000 metre vertical ascents, visiting some of the most dramatic mountain ranges in Timor. The dynamic race includes single track elements as well as aggressive descents. tourdetimor.com
Shinju Matsuri
Darwin Festival Darwin NTThe tropical city is transformed when free outdoor events, concerts, theatre productions and multicultural food stalls pop up across town and the decorated Festival Park. darwinfestival.org.au
AUGUST 9–26
AUG/SEPT 2018 1918
Compiled by: Sarah hinderentertainmententertainment
TOURSbooks
Welcome to Country, Marcia LangtonReleased May 1, RRP $39.99, Hardie Grant, Travel.This travel guide to Indigenous Australia and the Torres Strait Islands offers a fascinating look into the history and customs of our traditional land owners, and provides a state-by-state directory of Indigenous tourism experiences.
Out of the Forest, Gregory P. SmithReleased May 28, RRP $34.99/EBook $12.99, William Heinemann Australia, Biography.A revealing memoir that shares the story of Smith's escape from society to live in near-total isolation in a forest in northern New South Wales for 10 years — and what eventually brought him back.
Whitsunday Dawn, Annie SeatonReleased July 23, RRP $29.99/EBook $6.99, Harper Collins, Fiction.This eco-adventure is set in the Whitsundays, where Olivia finds herself torn between big business and nature when she meets a local fisherman who opens her eyes to the impact her mining project will have on the Reef.
Telstra National Aboriginal & Torres Strait Islander Art Awards August 10–November 25, Museum and Art Gallery Northern Territory, Darwin.Now in its 35th year, the country’s most prestigious Indigenous art awards celebrate the richness and diversity of contemporary creative practice by Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander artists.
Gene Simmons August 28–September 1 in Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney & Brisbane.Coinciding with the 40th anniversary of his debut solo album, KISS legend Gene Simmons visits Australia for his first-ever solo tour, and will be joined on stage by former band mate Ace Frehley.
Cher, Here We Go AgainSeptember 26–October 20 in Newcastle, Brisbane, Melbourne, Adelaide, Perth & Sydney. Following an overwhelming response to her afterparty performance at Sydney’s Mardi Gras earlier this year, Cher returns for her first Australian tour in 13 years, which is also slated to be the music icon’s last tourDown Under.
SALA: South Australian Living Artists FestivalAugust 1–30, venues across South Australia. Celebrated to promote visual artists right across the state, SALA Festival features hundreds of exhibitions, talks and forums by professional and amateur artists alike in an eclectic mix of conventional and unexpected locations throughout South Australia.
MoMA at NGV: 130 Years of Modern and Contemporary ArtJune 9–October 7, National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne.This year’s Melbourne Winter Masterpieces exhibition presents 200 key works from New York’s Museum of Modern Art that trace the development of art and design from the 19th century through to today. Expect to see masterworks by Picasso, Matisse, Mondrian, Dali, and Warhol.
ART
DOCUMENTARYBlue the FilmCurrent screenings across Australia & available on iTunes, Google Play, YouTube & DVD.In the last 40 years, half of all marine life has disappeared, and by 2050 there will be more plastic in the sea than fish. This eye-opening Australian doco tells the story of our dying oceans and the human-imposed dangers destroying them.
AUG/SEPT 2018 21
Meet the Chef
Simone Watts, originally from Melbourne, now lives on a palm-tree fringed beach where she plucks fresh coconuts from the ground for some morning electrolytes, and she works in one of the world’s most pristine eco-systems, the Daintree Rainforest. Every day of her life she is surrounded by an abundance of incredible produce that chefs from all over the world scurry to order for their own award-winning restaurants, meaning diners at Julaymba Restaurant can enjoy the best produce nature has on offer, as fresh as it could be.
The coastal flora is abundant with flowering native hibiscus. "These stunning yellow flowers have been used for centuries by local Aboriginals as a cure for depression, and make for a beautiful garnish on our desserts at the Lodge," Simone explains. "Quandongs have also started to drop around our gardens, so I come into the kitchen with pockets full of them!"
Simone's connection with the environment has steadily developed over time. "At the beginning of my career I was focused on absorbing flavours, techniques and ingredients, and it wasn’t until I had matured and moved on to managing kitchens that I became aware that chefs play only a small part of the ‘seed-to-plate’ journey of food," she says. "Being a chef and an environmentalist should go hand in hand, because without the land and sea, our world ceases to exist.” It's an important point that we should all understand.
Down the road, Simone has access to blueberry farms and avocados bursting with flavour, and an incredible array of native fruits such as Davidson plums and the endemic Boonjie tamarind. "In the dryer, warmer areas up north, you'll find some of the sweetest pineapples and bananas in the country," says Simone. "On the coast you’re greeted with produce that requires humid, warm climates such as cocoa, vanilla and green peppercorns. We are also very privileged to call the Great Barrier Reef our front yard, however it is important to mention that seafood from our surrounding waters, as stunning as it may be, is not plentiful and should be sourced from reliable suppliers that can guarantee fish are line caught as opposed to trawling practices.”
Simone believes that the one and only true constant we
have in our lives is our relationship with the earth. "The importance of making respectful, mindful choices is greater than ever, as the environment is rapidly becoming a victim of our poor decisions," she says. "We can no longer grow in population and consume at current rates without giving back to allow the circle of life to continue. Chefs have therefore been thrown into the spotlight which allows us to radically influence and transform the way society thinks about food. It is not only our job to teach people how to cook, but to educate them where their food has come from."
Simone thinks there is something honest and real about the Australian food scene. "The days of pretentious fine dining here are over," she states. "We as a nation don’t have the food history or definitive cuisine that many countries do, so we have reverted back to understanding our land and the indigenous foods and techniques that have been used long before white table cloths were invented.”
Simone's favourite dish currently on Julaymba's menu is kangaroo tataki. "We use Paroo wild-game kangaroo, sourced from an area in Queensland where their dense population is having a negative effect on the environment," she explains. "There's a ‘male-only’ policy when harvesting, which reduces the impact on juvenile kangaroos. Paroo also work alongside a sister company called ‘Karmine Kangaroo Leather’, which utilises the skin of the kangaroo to make products such as aprons and belts. This no-waste, sustainable approach aligns perfectly with our overall message at the Lodge."
The kangaroo is crusted in native pepper, and marinated in soy and crushed ginger. It's served with a tea-soaked egg using local Daintree Estates tea, miso cream and a crunchy wasabi granola, and garnished with pickled ginger, marigolds from the Lodge's garden and bamboo charcoal salt.
"This dish showcases our native Australian ingredients, and highlights how lucky we are to live in such a multi-cultural country with a variety of inspirational cuisines," says Simone. It also beautifully showcases Simone's talent, and her passion for appreciating everything that Mother Nature offers her. daintree-ecolodge.com.au
THE CONNECTED CHEF Meet eco warrior simone watts, head chef at julaymba restaurant at the daintree eco lodge. Words: Michelle Hespe
Confit fennel, ruby grapefruit, Mungalli biodynamic labneh, dried olive, Boonie tamarind vinaigrette.
Aged duck breast, Davidson and black ruby plums, bitter leaves, confit leg and pistacchio terrine and roasted barley jus.
AUG/SEPT 2018 2322
GROOTE EYLANDT LOOMS SURPRISINGLY LARGE THROUGH MY WINDOW OF AIRNORTH’S E120 ON OUR FLIGHT FROM DARWIN.
The fourth largest island in Australia after Tasmania, Melville and Kangaroo, it measures 50 kilometres from east to west and 60 kilometres from north to south. Part of an archipelago of 40 smaller islands, it’s home to the Warnindilyakwa people, whose Anindilyakwa language is thought to be one of the most ancient in Australia. Interestingly, it's also thought to be the first language spoken by all 14 Indigenous clans on the island.
Ask around and you won’t find too many who have heard of Groote Eylandt (Dutch for “Great Island”) or know of its whereabouts in the Gulf of Carpentaria (off the east coast of Arnhem Land).
The Anindilyakwa, as they are known, have lived here for some 8,000 years. Today Groote is home to 1,500 people across three main Indigenous communities: Angurugu, Milyakburra and Umbakumba.
Around 400 years ago the Makassans were the first foreigners to set foot on Groote, when they began travelling from Indonesia in search of trepang (sea cucumber), visiting the island up until 1908.
These days tourism is still in its infancy, and it’s multi-billion-dollar business GEMCO (Groote Eylandt Mining Company) — in operation since the 1960s — that keeps the island humming, producing more than 3.8 million tonnes of manganese ore a year. That’s around a quarter of the world’s requirements.
Since manganese is a finite resource, it’s only recently that Groote — with permission of the local Aboriginal Land Council — has been opened up to the public, promoting itself as a world-class fishing mecca and welcoming involvement with its remote Indigenous communities.
The arrivals hall of Groote’s rustic airport is a hive of fluoro GEMCO safety vests, plus a cherry welcoming sign and another that proclaims Groote Eylandt cane toad-free. Making his way through the sea of fly-in fly-out miners is my driver, who escorts me to a four-wheel drive for the ride to my accommodation at Groote Eylandt Lodge.
Set in extensive grounds and linked by timber walkways, the Lodge is made up of 60 waterfront suites, plus a spa, fishing lodge and pool.
Getting to grips with GrooteMy prior knowledge of Groote, I confess, was a little deficient. I’ve come for an outback adventure and to try my hand at fishing, having heard that even a novice like me can drop a line from one of two luxury fishing boats — East Wind and West Wind — to have the fish jump with gay abandon right onto the end of your hook. Swimming in the sea isn’t an option, unless you want to dodge crocs and
Culture vulture
Groote?Howgreat is
In the remote far reaches of the Northern Territory, Groote Island is a journey through thousands of years of remarkable Aboriginal culture few
tourists are lucky enough to traipse.WORDS: JILL INNAMORATI-VARLEY
Top, left to right: Candida Mamarika bush dyeing; Groote sunsets; fishing on the lodge's boat West Wind; Annabell Amagula hanging silk to dry; aerial view over Groote Eylandt.Bottom, left to right: Umbakumba bush dyers; dyeing silk; swimming pool at the lodge; works of Indigenous art at the cultural centre; cave art; visitors pose with their catch of the day.
AUG/SEPT 2018 25
Culture vulturePHOTOGRA
PHY: GROOTE EYLA
NDT LODGE AND A
NINDILYAKW
A A
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sharks. “Don’t worry about the crocs; it’s the sharks that are the problem. There are hundreds of ’em!” warns Scotty, our Indigenous guide. And he wasn’t wrong — I kept hauling in reef sharks whenever I cast out my line!
Still, when fishing’s over for the day, there’s always the Lodge’s swimming pool for a relaxing dip, and the romance of standing on the sundeck overlooking the Arafura Sea at sunset, with fresh sashimied fish and a flute of bubbles. Then you know you’re standing somewhere special.
Experiencing the cultureIn a place where its people fully embrace their ties to the land, the Art & Cultural Centre is a key attraction on Groote, located on the grounds of the Lodge. Here, cultural heritage is explored through all kinds of traditional art, such as painting and basket and mat weaving, and it’s a place where guests can meet with local Indigenous artists whose work is highly prized by collectors all over the world.
The Anindilyakwa pride themselves on hospitality, and their welcoming of arriving guests is warm and insightful as they introduce us to their art and culture on a tour of the gallery.
It’s from the gallery that four-hour ‘Explorer’ and half-day ‘Cultural Highlights’ tours take in Groote’s rich heritage, teaching visitors about the history of the Anindilyakwa people and language, clans, bush medicine and local art.
On my tour with Scotty I’m struck by the diversity and unique nature of the environment. In this relatively small area rugged sandstone plateaus meet monsoon vine forests, and open woodland, paperbark swamps and red sand hills lead to pristine beaches.
Our tour stops by open-air St Andrew’s Anglican Church in Angurugu, where Mildred Mamarika is a local Indigenous church leader. From here, we weave our way along a circuitous, bumpy track to arrive at the ancient cave-painting site Wurrwarpatena, decorated in ochre with all kinds of local wildlife and symbols, all still in pristine condition.
So that cultural knowledge, traditions and skills are not lost by younger generations, schools and
Indigenous rangers on the island have partnered up to establish the ‘Learning on Culture’ program, which seeks to ensure that the stories of Groote — like its cave paintings — live on.
The Church Missionary Society was largely in control of Groote’s affairs up until 1978. In 2006, the Anindilyakwa Land Council took responsibility for the oversight of Anindilyakwa language work, and today it works to promote and preserve it through a collection of language and cultural resources relating to the Warnindilyakwa people.
Hugh Bland, an anthropologist who works with the Anindilyakwa Land Council to protect sites of significance, says culture and traditional ceremonial belief are fundamental to the Anindilyakwa. “These creation stories account for current relationships between people, animals and land,” says Bland. “It is a culture very focused on reincarnation. When someone passes away, senior people sing these songs to ensure they ‘sing’ the person’s spirit back to where it belongs.”
The magic of Groote Eylandt and its people will surely sing me back again one day. AN
Airnorth flies to Groote daily from Darwin. To book, head to airnorth.com.au
FAST FACTS
Groote Eylandt is the fourth largest island in Australia, and the largest island in the Gulf of Carpentaria.
Groote Eylandt is Dutch for “Large
Island”, and it was the name given
by explorer Abel Tasman in 1644.
1644
4th
Clockwise from left: Angurgu bush dyers; views from the lodge; getting
around the island.
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Opposite page: Skydiving over Rottnest Island. This page from left: Horizontal Falls; Ningaloo
Reef; helifishing in the Top End..
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Helifishing NT
A combination of two outback adventures, helifishing involves a scenic flight over the outback, with doors removed for unparalleled visibility and access to some of the best fishing spots in the Territory, unreachable by other modes of transport. For a chance to catch the region’s famous barramundi, Helifish flights tour the Top End for daytime or afternoon sessions, or even for a two- to five-day fishing adventure. helifish.com.au Horizontal Falls Kimberley WA
Talbot Bay is home to an
entirely unique natural phenomenon that sees intense tidal currents hurtle through the Kimberley’s narrow coastal gorges to create an astounding sideways waterfall effect. Experience the world’s only horizontal waterfalls on a speedboat thrill ride or take a swim with friendly sharks (cage included). If you fancy a bird’s-eye view, Horizontal Falls Adventures offers scenic seaplane flights. horizontalfallsadventures.com.au
Up & awayMacDonnell Ranges NT
Floating high above the MacDonnell Ranges in a hot air balloon, witness
a spellbinding sunrise as bright rays illuminate the desert plains and its wildlife. Outback Ballooning, one of the oldest companies of its kind in Australia, operates out of Alice Springs almost every day of the year. After your sky-high wake up call, they’ll start your day right with an Aussie-style champagne breakfast.outbackballooning.com.au
Wilderness safari Arnhem Land NT
Unspoiled wilderness and sprawling wetlands teeming with wildlife define this special corner of the globe, and a safari here with Outback Spirit will introduce you to the Gove Peninsula
of the Yolngu people and the ancient cave systems of Mount Borradaile. The company’s partnership with the traditional owners of the land means you might be lucky enough to be schooled by a local Indigenous guide, in the same way the Aborigines have been passing down knowledge for 50,000 years. outbackspirittours.com.au
Swim with whales Ningaloo Reef WA
One of Australia’s most preserved reefs, Ningaloo also ranks as one of the best spot in the world to swim alongside whale sharks. Between March and August,
Outback AdventuresOutback Adventures
From a thrilling skydive over Rottnest Island to an exhilarating speedboat ride along the Kimberley’s Horizontal Falls, we round up the top adrenaline-pumping
experiences across the NT and WA. words: Sarah Hinder
Adventures
Top
&NT WA
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around 300 to 500 of them gather along the World Heritage-listed reef to feed on plankton. These gentle giants share the waters with manta rays, dugongs, sea turtles, dolphins and tropical fish, providing an unparalleled opportunity for diving and snorkelling with Ningaloo Discovery tours. And from August to September, you can mingle with pods of graceful migrating humpback whales and their calves.ningaloodiscovery.com.au
Desert driving The Binns Track NT
An epic four-wheel drive adventure, the Binns Track winds all the way from the South Australian border to the remote northern township of Timber Creek in the far north west of the state. Traversing north for 2,230 kilometres, the track begins at Mount Dare and heads to the western fringe of the Simpson Desert, before journeying through the ancient East MacDonnell Ranges, abandoned gold-rush towns, the towering granite boulders of Devils Marbles and the famed “Barra country” of Judbarra/Gregory National Park. northernterritory.com/drive/binns-track
Skydiving Rottnest Island WA
Accelerating from 0 to 200 kilometres per hour in just 60 seconds, imagine rocketing in freefall toward the turquoise reefs of Rottnest Island. Western Australia’s only island skydiving experience begins with a 20-minute scenic flight, followed by an 8,000–15,000-foot plunge from the plane, with instructor in tow. Back on safe ground, be sure to take a selfie with the island’s ever-smiling resident quokkas. Further afield, Sky Dive Geronimo also offers tandem skydiving in Busselton and Broome.skydivegeronimo.com.au
Camel ridingUluru NT
Make like the early pioneers and explore the Red Centre on camelback. With 60 friendly desert animals in their care, Uluru Camel Tours offers journeys around Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. For an extra-special experience, choose between their sunrise and sunset tours to soak up the first or last light of the day against a rich, earthy landscape, before finishing with refreshments. The accompanying camel farm is open year-round and visitors are welcome to a short ride and a wander through the camel museum. ulurucameltours.com.au AN
Top to bottom: Skydiving over Rottnest Island; driving through the Northern Territory desert; Uluru Camel Tours.
Outback Adventures
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PHILANTHROPY
n boab-dotted Leopold Downs Station, local Aboriginal students and pupils from Melbourne spend part of their day learning how to muster cattle, repair fences and forage for bush tucker.
Established in 2010, the Yiramalay/Wesley Studio School is a unique partnership between Wesley College – one of the top co-educational independent private schools in Melbourne – and the Indigenous people of the Fitzroy Valley communities in the Kimberley.
“When Melbourne students come up here, a lot of them haven’t been out bush and many haven’t met Aboriginal people, so it’s quite a culture shock,” says Ned McCord, the Studio School’s executive director and a former cattleman.
“They move in and share accommodation with the Aboriginal students, and a lot of great friendships are made.”
Situated on a working cattle station 85 kilometres from the small town of Fitzroy Crossing, the Studio School enrolls around 60 Aboriginal students, who experience “cultural, spiritual and academic learning” to help prepare them for future employment and education.
As part of the two-way learning venture, the school hosts up to 120 Year 10 students from Melbourne each year. In groups of 20 to 25, the Wesley College teenagers undertake a three-week induction based on life in the Kimberley.
“Our local Yiramalay students immerse the Wesley pupils in Indigenous culture through activities such as traditional smoking ceremonies, mustering cattle, exploring Indigenous art, music and dance, making bush tucker – even learning how to catch and cook goannas.”
The students also learn the story of the Bunuba people’s revered ancestor Jandamarra, a freedom fighter who tried to hold back the tide of European expansion in the Kimberley.
“You’ve got the Aboriginal students learning, and also telling the story as they’ve heard it from their elders.”
And while students from the city might shine in certain classroom subjects, local pupils lead the way when it comes to bush skills, chuckles Mr McCord.
“They were doing some fencing on the station and they had to get lunch,” he recalls. “The Aboriginal students started chasing a goanna. Later when they were preparing it to cook, the local students talked to the Wesley students about how to cut it properly, clean it and get the fire ready. There’s so much learning that is done outside the classroom.”
O
In the remote Kimberley region the school day is underway, but class
subjects — and the students taking them are not what you might expect.
words: Leah McLennan
Two-way learning
"They move in and share accommodation with the aboriginal students, and a lot of
great friendships are made.” – Ned McCord
Teenagers off to the big smoke The two-way learning continues when Aboriginal students pack up and relocate to Melbourne to experience mainstream education and metropolitan culture.
Simara Munda, a Pilbara-born 16-year-old, is one of the 60 Aboriginal students in residence at Yiramalay. She spends half of each year at Wesley College.
“My experience has included meeting new people and learning about them and how different the local Bunuba culture and my culture, Yinjibarndi, are,” says Simara, a year 11 student at the school.
Students at the Yiramalay/Wesley Studio School; officials gather at the opening of the new accommodation.
Images
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PHILANTHROPY
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At Wesley College the Yiramalay students can take up opportunities such as a science camp at the University of Melbourne, learning about media and broadcasting at RMIT University’s radio station, and visiting ABB’s Melbourne base to operate an industrial robot.
“I received advice about future careers and we went to Monash University and visited the law faculty,” recalls Simara. “When I leave school I would like to try journalism in a big city like Melbourne, but for now I like being here [in the Kimberley] because there are different people to meet and I get to swim in the beautiful waterholes.”
Many ways to measure successThe overall retention rate of Yiramalay students is significantly higher than the national average for Aboriginal students – 70 per cent of students at the Studio School participate in Year 12, while the national average is 19 per cent. Last year five students graduated Year 12. However, the number of students who complete Year 12 is not the only measure of success.
“Nearly 75 per cent of all Yiramalay students enrolled at the school since 2010 are now either employed or continuing their education,” says McCord.
“They are in fields such as education, conservation, agriculture, mining and construction. This really speaks for the impact Yiramalay has, and the merit in focusing on the holistic development of students.”
Currently three staff members are former students who completed Year 12. “It’s home for them – and I’ve got more alumni wanting to come back to work or volunteer,” says McCord.
The positive impact of the school is also seen in the health of the Indigenous students, including improved mental wellbeing, and better sleep and physical fitness, he adds.
Experiencing Kimberley life also changes the career aspirations of the Melbourne students.
“A couple of Wesley students have become vets and several are now working on properties in the NT and in WA. The program brings some young people back into the bush. I love that aspect of it as well.”
New digs in the outbackIn late May the Studio School held a celebration to mark the official opening of new accommodation.
“Students in Years 10, 11 and 12 were on bunk beds, and now they are two to a room. We bought all the beds locally in Broome and they’ve got lovely doonas. In the first term, with the air conditioners, they loved that as well,” says McCord.
The $1.4 million project was funded in part by contributions from the Commonwealth Government, while half came from fundraising efforts. AN
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Bush Tucker ConnectionsLooking at one of Gloria Mengil’s paintings is to step back to a time over forty years ago, when her grandmother and mother once collected bush tucker with her as a child, on their traditional land of Binjin.
The paintings are tangible, intricately detailed connections to both her and her family’s past, and also everlasting links between her and the land that she continues to explore and learn from.
When Gloria first began working as an artist, she worked in the mediums of slate and boab — carving out her past, her thoughts, her dreams. “Then in 2000 I began painting because I wanted to learn more about my country,” she says. “I mostly paint my grandmother’s traditional country.”
Gloria was born in Kununurra – a town on the eastern extremity of the Kimberley Region that is considered an oasis in the desert. It’s a special place that is fertile enough to grow melons and mangoes. It is here that Gloria learned about what she could collect from the surrounding lands to eat, and right from a young age, one of her favourite types of bush tucker was bush peanuts, which she loves to eat after they’ve been roasted on coals.
These peanuts are often featured in her bold graphic paintings, and they’ve now also been adapted to appear on hand-thrown terracotta and stoneware plates, platters and beakers, and they’re digitally printed on elegant silk scarves. The beautiful pieces are the end result of a collaboration between Warringarri Aboriginal Arts and JamFactory Contemporary Craft.
Sadly, despite there being benefits of increased agricultural expansion in Kununurra and surrounds, the changes to the original habitat in which Gloria and her family foraged has led to the bush foods that have fed Indigenous Australians for tens of thousands of years to be threatened. Today Gloria
rarely eats the bush tucker that she once survived on. However, through the intricately detailed paintings and objects that celebrate Gloria’s favoured foods, is the hope that these nuts and fruit can be protected for future generations to enjoy.
Mother CountryDora Griffiths has had a rich and colourful life in Kununurrra, surrounded by two things that she loves: her home Country and art. Over a decade ago, she worked at the Warringarri Arts Centre as an artist support worker, helping the elderly artists to mix paints. She then worked as the gallery’s
ARTSPACE
Borne of the LandHere we meet two of Warringarri Aboriginal Arts rising stars, to learn a little about
how they continue to explore their country and their people through their art. WORDS: MICHELLE HESPE
Far left: Gloria Mengil wearing her silk scarf. (Photo courtesy of Glenn Iseger.) This page, clockwise from left: Bali Baleng, 2018, by Dora Griffiths (natural pigment on canvas 80x60cm); Gloria Mengil’s My Favourite Bush Tucker ceramic range. (Photo courtesy of Glenn Iseger); Dora Griffiths wearing Waringarri Arts hand block printed textile; Goodim, 2018, by Dora Griffiths (natural pigment on canvas 100x100cm.)
Images
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Administrator, then moved up to become Gallery Assistant. She then became a Director on the gallery’s Board, later taking on the role of Chairperson. Dora then joined the ANKAAA Board (Association of Northern, Kimberley and Arnhem Aboriginal Artists) and completed the ANKAA Arts Worker extension program.
Being around so much art, history, culture, and talented artists led Dora to putting her own talent to the test, and today, while juggling being a mother and a grandmother, when she manages to find some time for herself she loves to paint her father and mother’s traditional country. She’s proud to follow in the footsteps of her elders, learning about Country, culture and art, from her parents, acclaimed artist Peggy, and recently deceased Alan Griffiths.
In 2017, Dora curated her first exhibition, Legacy, which was a special collection of works that embodied the past, present and future thinking around the art centre’s collection, honouring the work of four deceased artists. Dora created the concept around the work of former masters Paddy Carlton, Daisy Bitting, Mignonette Jamin and Peter Newry, who were renowned for using art as a tool to celebrate, educate and deliver cultural knowledge to future generations. They were pioneers of their time and helped to create the vision and direction of Warringarrri Aboriginal Arts. They left a powerful artistic legacy that continues to gather momentum today.
“Even though our old people are gone, they are still with us here today, their spirit is here. It is a way of connecting back to the artists and also reminding us how far these artists have carried this place and kept us motivated and connected
Left to right: Gloria Mengil’s silk scarf and textiles. (Photo courtesy of Glenn Iseger.); Goongooloo, 2018, by Dora Griffiths (natural pigment on paper 38x29cm)
Images to each other through arts and culture,” Dora said while addressing the crowd on opening night at ‘Legacy’.
The exhibition will continue throughout 2018. Due to the great interest generated by the show, Dora and Warringarri Aboriginal Arts hope to run more exhibitions in the future, including a prospective focus on the art of Kalumburu, whose remote Kira Kiro art centre Warringarri supports and helps to promote.
ARTSPACE
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Bay of Fires, TasFor those after a luxurious and leisurely walking trip, the Bay of Fires Lodge Walk ticks every box. Experience the 32-kilometre track over four days in a small group, led by experienced guides. Trekking with Tasmanian Walking Co means deluxe accommodation every night, spa treatments and local Tassie fare. For an Indigenous take on the area, the Aboriginal owned and operated Wukalina Walk offers an immersive cultural experience in palawa — Tasmanian Aboriginal culture — and nights are spent in bespoke palawa-inspired dome huts.taswalkingco.com.auwukalinawalk.com.au
From the Grampians’ rugged mountain peaks to the azure waters around the Bay of Fires, Australia is home to some of
the world’s most epic and immersive walking holidays.Words: Sarah Hinder
AUSTRALIA’S BEST WALKING HOLIDAYS
WALKING HOLIDAYS WALKING HOLIDAYS
Bibbulmun Track, WAOne of the world’s longest walking trails, this scenic walk stretches 1,000 kilometres through karri and tingle forests, coastal heathlands and the awe-inspiring coastline of Western Australia’s south-west. Whether tackling the epic track end-to-end or strolling section by section, the Bibbulmun Track Foundation offers plenty of events and workshops on all manner of bush survival to get you started. Bibbulmun Walking Breaks leads guided half- and full-day or eight- and nine-day tours with nightly stays at bed and breakfasts in rural towns along the way. For those travelling solo, furnished timber campsites, toilets and picnic tables are dotted along the well-maintained track.bibbulmuntrack.org.au
Scenic Rim Trail, QldThis eco-luxury walking experience explores the World Heritage-listed Gondwana Rainforests of Main Range National Park. Along the three-day trail, expect surreal panoramic views and unspoilt ancient wilderness. Each night, return to Spicers Canopy, a group of 10 luxury eco-tents decked out with creature comforts that make for the ideal glamping experience — especially when you set sight on the blanket of twinkling stars hovering above. scenicrimtrail.com
Cape to Cape Track, WAWinding across the beautiful Margaret River region, between Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin, this coastal track takes in cliffs, headlands, seascapes and inland forests. For a combination of nature and the region’s famed food and wine scene, Walk Into Luxury offers a guided four-day walking experience with nightly luxury accommodation and a smorgasbord of winery and dining experiences.capetocapewalk.com.au
Heysen Trail, SAExtending from Cape Jervis on the Fleurieu Peninsula to Parachilna Gorge in the Flinders Ranges, the Heysen Trail winds for 1,200 mesmerising kilometres, taking in wine regions and some of South Australia’s most spectacular scenery. To traverse the entire length would take 60 days, so for a less daunting but equally memorable experience, Trek Tours Australia leads six-day tours with cabin-style accommodation. The Arkaba Walk, meanwhile, is a four-day eco-hiking safari dedicated to educating visitors about conservation. heysentrail.asn.autrektoursaustralia.com.auarkabawalk.com
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WALKING HOLIDAYS
Six Foot Track, NSWThis historic Blue Mountains track is a three-day journey linking Katoomba and the Jenolan Caves. Originally built as a horse trail in 1884, today there are plenty of overnight camping sites along the way. The 46-kilometre journey offers exceptional stargazing and is thriving with rivers and cascading waterfalls. Sweeping views over the Megalong Valley make for superb photo ops, before crossing the creaking swing bridge over Coxs River. With outstanding accommodation options and plenty to see and do, it wouldn’t hurt to extend your stay at either end. nationalparks.nsw.gov.au
Larapinta Trail, NTAtop the West MacDonnell Ranges, the legendary Larapinta Trail winds its way across outback ridges for a grand 233 kilometres. Staggering ridge lookouts descend between blazing orange gorges, with plenty of welcome waterholes scattered along the track. Boutique trekking company Trek Larapinta lead small camping groups, starting from three days through to the full 16-day end-to-end trek. Beginning in Alice Springs and winding across the spine of the West MacDonnell Ranges, the trek is famous for its 360-degree panoramas.larapintatrail.com.autreklarapinta.com.au
Grampians Peaks Trail, VicHere, at one of Australia’s most breathtaking mountainous regions, ancient sandstone formations loom large over fern-filled gorges and spectacular waterfalls. Grampians Personalised Tours & Adventures offers insightful excursions, from guided bushwalks and environmental talks to eco-walks and adventure activities. When the hiking day is done, spend time exploring the surrounding Grampians region, which is bursting with picturesque towns, gastronomic adventures, welcoming cellar doors and arresting local art. visitgrampians.com.augrampianstours.com
HONOURABLE MENTIONS
• Cliff Top Walking Track, Blue Mountains NSW: For heart-racing views across the Grose Valley, spring wildflowers and waterfalls.
• Maria Island Walk, Tas: An award-winning, comfortable walk around a World Heritage island and its pristine beaches.
• Wineglass Bay, Freycinet National Park Tas: For its white-sand beaches and azure waters surrounded by lush green forests.
• Great Ocean Walk, Vic: Aside from the Twelve Apostles, the wilderness and wildlife of Great Otway National Park are reason enough.
• Mount Sorrow Ridge Trail, Daintree Rainforest Qld: A world-class gem for nature-lovers, this track is not for the faint-hearted.
• Cooloola Wilderness Trail, Qld: Through eucalypt forest and sub-tropical rainforest, you’ll go past sand dunes, volcanic crags and the Noosa ‘River of Mirrors’.
• Gold Coast Hinterland Great Walk, Qld: For three days of wildlife-spotting and sweeping views around Gondwana Rainforest and an ancient volcano.
• Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail, SA: A five-day trek around coastline and cliffs, with terrific wildlife encounters.
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