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Volume 39 Part 1 October 2010 Newsletter No. 85

CONTENTS Page No. Editorial Isobel Wood 2 AGM — Chairpersons Report Betty Roy 3 Obituary— Alistair Dowell Betty Roy 4 CFSS Winter Programme 2010/11 5 Dates for your Diary Forth Naturalist & Historian 6 Dollar History Society 7 The Clackmannan History Society 8

Tullibody History Group 9 Report Brought Forward from last Newsletter

22 March The Jacobites Susanne McEwan 10 40th Anniversary Celebrations Isobel Wood 13 Reports from Summer Outings & Field Trips Spring Field Trip—30th April to 3rd May—Melrose 16 Isobel Wood, Betty Roy, Brenda Jenkinson, Susanne McEwan, Violet Mangin, Nancy Henderson Wednesday Walks

19 May Argaty - Red Kite Project Marilyn Scott 28 9 June Linlithgow Loch Jack Archibald 31 23 June Ardoch Fort Isobel Wood 32 28 July Plean Country Park Jack Archibald 36 11 Aug Muckhart to Dollar via Muckhart Mill

Jack Archibald 38 Saturday Outings

29 May University of Dundee Botanic Gardens & Verdant Jute Mills Isobel Wood 40

19 June Falkirk Area Castles & Towers Isobel Wood 44 24 July Summerlee Museum of Scottish Industrial Life

David Bytheway 47 21 Aug Tentsmuir and St. Athernase Church Betty Roy 49 Sun. 5 Sept Doors Open Days Visits Jack Archibald 51

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EDITORIAL Isobel Wood It is good that we have reached our 40th Anniversary and we are still going strong. As you can read in this edition of the Newsletter, we had a celebration of the Anniversary at the 40th AGM. We had a very well attended AGM, at which the Council was re-elected for a further year. We have enjoyed an excellent summer programme which has been varied, interesting and had mostly good weather despite odd glitches. I would like to thank all the people who organized our outings; everything goes smoothly on our Saturday full days and Wednesday evening outings. I planned the outing to Summerlee Industrial Museum myself: it was the first time I had done a full day outing on my own. I now realize the amount of work that goes into planning an enjoyable day out for other people. I would like to thank everyone who has contributed to the newsletter so promptly. It makes my job a lot easier, and the newsletter more interesting to read when there is a variety of people who write the articles. Eddie Stewart, for the second year running, has organized for us to go to Doors Open Days events. This year we are visiting sites on our own doorstep, which is described in the newsletter. It shows how enthusiastic our members are, that they do not want to stop at the end of our summer outings programme. Betty Roy, David Hunter and myself opened the Old Kirkyard and Mar & Kellie Mausoleum with good weather on Sunday 5th September for Doors Open Days. It was a very successful day; there were people waiting to get in during the morning and people still wanted to get in as we were closing. 47 people signed in for the tour and there were other people doing the tour on their own. We now have our newsletters on the web site; Marilyn Scott has been busy putting them onto the web for you to read at http://www.cfss.org.uk.

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CHAIRPERSON’S REPORT Presented on behalf of the Trustees of Clackmannanshire Field Studies Society on the12th April, 2010. Charity No SL008738.

It is with a sense of achievement that I present the Annual Report on this the 40th Anniversary since the establishment of CFSS. We can all take pride in being members of a Society that has existed for four decades. The management are kept busy compiling the summer and winter programmes, producing a twice yearly Newsletter as well as organising the Annual Spring Field Trip. During the session the Trustees have met ten times when future programs and events are discussed.

We have just completed the Winter Programme of talks. The range of topics is varied and presented by competent speakers. Written up accounts appear in the Newsletter, as do write ups of the summer walks and excursions. At this point I would like to thank Sadie Archibald and her team of Helpers for providing the refreshments after the meetings.

The May Field Trip for 2009 was a return visit to the Isle of Bute, last visited in 1992. This year we will make a return visit to the Waverley Castle Hotel in Melrose. Twenty one members have signed up and on this occasion we shall visit the eastern part of the region.

In June, Graham Watson of the Perthshire Society of Natural Science contacted us with a request to visit Alloa Tower as well as St. John’ s Episcopal Church and Sauchie Tower. Their thank you letter repeated their appreciation of their welcome to the county. The beginning of September is usually when we hold our annual coffee morning and the date coincides with Doors Open Day, a few of Doors Open Day visitors sampled our wares. The event raised two pence short of £400, many thanks to members and others for their support of this event, especially Bob & Alison Snaddon and their friend Ellen from Edinburgh who are no longer able to give the input as before.

For the Walking Festival in September, I volunteered to lead The East & West Walks -16 attended- all seemed to enjoy the experience. I also sold copies of the book that dealt with the walks.

We take an interest in Planning matters that appear in the local press. Roy Wood scans the papers for us and a protest is made to the Planning

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Department if we feel that is necessary — e.g., the uprooting of the Lime Trees last year. More recently there is the question of more parking charges in the town centre. In the past Alloa were happy to have free parking as it was felt this encouraged visitors to the town.

2009 and 2010 marked the entry of CFSS to the Web. Originally set up by Ian Ferguson, son-in-law of Sadie & Jack Archibald, and now finalised by Marilyn Scott. To gain access key in http://www.cfss.org.uk. Personally, I have entered uncharted waters but hope members and the general public will find the Web site useful.

Looking through my papers, I found a booklet published in the 197Os entitled The Gartmorn and Craigrie Lades. The author, Murray Dickie, was contacted and permission given to reprint. This will be published as a second edition.

Betty Roy

OBITUARY – ALISTAIR DOWELL – 1920- 2010.

Alistair Dowell, a faithful attendant at the Coffee Morning, passed away on Friday, 9th April, just a few weeks off his 90th birthday. He was predeceased by his wife Mary. Mary and Alistair were participants at the Spring Field Trip. When Mary died, Alistair remained a member of the CFSS and regularly attended the Coffee Mornings. He fully appreciated and read the articles relating to our outings, meetings etc., in the Newsletter. In his private life, he was a well known cricketer and played for Clackmannan County. When cricket was no longer possible, he became a competent bowler. In his later years being able to continue to drive was a boon and allowed him to meet friends for a chat. He was a true gentleman and will be greatly missed by those who knew him. Betty Roy.

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CFSS WINTER PROGRAMME 2010 / 2011 Meetings are held in Alloa Town Hall (Tommy Downs Room), unless otherwise stated, on Monday evenings -2nd and 4th of the month- 7:30 to 9:30 pm. Members of linked societies and other non-members are welcome, though non-members would be expected to join for subsequent visits. 2010 SEPTEMBER Sat 4th COFFEE MORNING – Moncrieff Church hall, Alloa 10am – 12 noon OCTOBER Mon 11th RUSSIAN LACQUERED BOXES. Cairns Mason , CFSS Mon 25th THE STIRLING HEADS. John Donaldson NOVEMBER Mon 8th PORT OF ALLOA CUSTOMS. Dr. Eric Graham

Sat 13th 36th Man and the Landscape Symposium at Stirling University. Trees, Wood and People

Information at http://www.fnh.stir.ac.uk Mon 22nd LAMB OF DUNDEE. John W Irvine FSA Scot DECEMBER Mon 13th Member’s Night 2011 JANUARY Mon 10th MINING EVIDENCES IN THE WEST OF FIFE.

David Reid Mon 24th THE GREAT MICHAEL AND AIRTH.

John Reid FEBRUARY Mon 14th THE YOUNGERS OF ARNSBRAE.

Susan Mills, CFSS Mon 28th ROBERT BURNS. Dr. Catherine Smith, CFSS MARCH Mon 14th THE TRAVELS OF ELLA CHRISTIE

AND THE CREATION OF THE JAPANESE GARDEN Sir Robert Stewart

Mon 28th LOGIE KIRK PROJECT. Eleanor Young

APRIL tentative industrial visit Longannet Visitor Centre

MAY Mon 9th AGM Cheese & wine

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Forth Naturalist & Historian Annual Symposium 2010 36th Man & the Landscape Trees, Woods and People

Saturday 13th November 2010

PROGRAMME 9.30 Registration Lecture Theatre A3 foyer, Cottrell Building Coffee, bookstall and displays All lectures in Lecture Theatre A3

MORNING SESSION Chair: Richard Tipping, University of Stirling

10.00 Welcome and Introduction Professor Michael Thomas, University of Stirling 10.05-10.25 Learning to love them: changing attitudes over the centuries to trees and woods Christopher Smout (St. Andrews) 10.30-10.50 Woodland history around the Bealach nam Bo, Loch Katrine Coralie Mills (independent researcher) & Mairi Stewart (St. Andrews ) 10.55-11.15 State intervention in forestry – the everchanging role of the Forestry Commission in Scotland’s rural scene from 1919 to the present day Syd House (Forestry Commission) 11.20 – 11.35 Coffee break 11.35-11.55 Ancient Trees Edward Parker (The Woodland Trust) 12.00-12.20 The science behind woodland restoration Cecile Bacles (Stirling) 12.25-12.35 Launch Forth Naturalist & Historian journal vol 33

12.35 – 14.00 Lunch* Displays, bookstall, tea / coffee

AFTERNOON SESSION Chair: Donald Davidson (Stirling)

14.00-14.20 The Great Trossachs Forest: why working together achieves so much more Liz Shortall (Woodland Trust/RSPB/FES/BP) 14.25-14.45 Inversnaid – from Loch side to Mountain top Fraser Lamont (RSPB) 14.50-15.10 Ecological corridors and the Central Scotland Green Network Simon Rennie (Central Scotland Green Network)

15.15 -16.00 Panel Discussion Chaired by Professor Michael Usher (Stirling)

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Programme 2010-2011

2010 14 September Dr. Iain Banks Director of Glasgow University

Archaeology Research Department Battlefield Archaeology in the 21st. Century

12 October Mr.Daniel Gray Archivist

Scotland and the Spanish Civil War. 09 November Mr. Alan Carswell Curator, Historian, Author

Afghan Ghosts – Britain’s Military Experience 1839 - 1919 14 December Dr. David Caldwell National Museums Scotland The Real Robinson Crusoe The Strange Adventures of a man from Fife. 2011 11 January Mr. Harry Reid Writer and former Editor of

World – The Herald The Dangerous Birth of the Modern Scottish Reformation.

08 February Mr. Ken Gray

Wealth, Worship, Welfare - Willam Stirling, of Stirling Architect, of Dunblane 1772 - 1838

08 March Dr. Bill Inglis formerly of Stirling University

The Battle of Sheriffmuir 1715 12 April Dr. Ian Mcintyre Past Vice President of Royal College of Surgeons of Edinburgh

500 years of Surgery in Scotland 10 May AGM followed by Dr. Alex Murdoch Edinburgh University

The Scottish Invention of the USA - Revisited

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2010 – 2011 Winter Programme

Saturday 18th September ‘Footage of Alloa Burgh 150th Anniversary ‘(Victorian Fair) By Dick Clark Saturday 16th October ‘The Pilgrim Road to Santiago’ By Ken Gray Saturday 20th November ‘Dunfermline Opera House’ By Gerry McMullan Saturday 11th December ‘The Balloonist and the Housewife’ A true story of WW1 espionage with a Clackmannan connection. By Dr Janet Morgan. Lady Balfour of Burleigh Saturday 15th January ‘Bits, Pit Bits, Fires, Ignitions, and Pit Closures’ The everyday life of a Mining Enginer By Ian Urquhart Saturday 19th February ‘West Fife to Stirling and Hillfoots in old Post Cards’ 35mm. By Jim Banks Saturday 19th March Members night followed by AGM. An informal evening with members showing slides from their own collections. All meeting in Clackmannan Church Hall at 7 PM JMB

The Clackmannan Society. Est. 1952

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TULLIBODY HISTORY GROUP

Scottish Charity SC 033965

Winter Programme 2010/11 Meetings are held on the last Thursday of every month They are held in The Heritage Centre and start at 7.30

Talk Schedule 30th September David

Bytheway Tay Bridge Disaster

28th October Charlie McLennan

Up the river from Torryburn

25th November Roy Wood Conserving history in USA.

9th or 16th December Christmas function

27th January 2011 Geoff Bailey The Forth at War 24th February Ken Gray The banks of Allan

Water 31st March Susan Mills Marshill excavations 28th April Neil McFarlane Gemstones &

Diamonds 26th May THG A.G.M. Talk by Chris Calder June Outing T.B.A. Suggestions

welcome

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The Jacobites Ian D. McIntosh, Volunteer Co-ordinator & Editor, Friends of Dundee

City Archives, gave us the last talk of the winter programme on 22nd

March, 2010.

East of Scotland - Dundee to Inverness, during the last Jacobite

Uprising 1745-1746

Mr. McIntosh explained in his opening comments that romanticisation

has dogged the history of the Jacobite cause in Scotland for over 200

years, resulting in the myth becoming far more important than the

history. That myth contends that the Rising of 1745 was decidedly a

peripheral event based to the north and west of the Highland line. As he

had thought otherwise, he set out to disprove that theory and to show

that in fact the Jacobite army had been as much a Lowland as a Highland

force. Indeed he said, he had hoped to find proof that Eastern Scotland

had been the largest part of Scotland to support the Jacobite cause.

He then began his talk by taking us on a journey. We travelled from

France with the Young Pretender, Charles Edward Stuart, who despite

the promised French troops being unable to join him, set sail from

Nantes aboard the Doutelle with the ‘seven men of Moidart’. Charles

landed in Eriskay on 23rd July 1745 and the standard of James VIII was

raised at Glenfinnan on 19th August in front of just over 1000

Highlanders. Subsequently the Jacobite and Hanoverian forces clashed at

Prestonpans on 21st September, where the Hanoverian forces under Sir

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John Cope were soundly defeated. Mr. McIntosh made reference here to

the popular song ‘Hey Johnny Cope’. He then continued with his

narrative, telling us that after Prestonpans Charles set off south making

for London, hoping to gather support along the way. Mr. McIntosh then

detailed the strength of support in foot, horse and artillery the Prince

commanded at that stage in proceedings and pointed out that there were

a considerable number of troops drawn from the Lowlands within the

ranks. However, despite the obvious increase in strength and getting as

far as Derby, the Jacobites retreated when word reached Charles of a

stronger Hanoverian force approaching. Mr. McIntosh speculated on the

validity of that information and discussed with us what Britain might be

like now if Charles had proceeded, particularly since the Hanoverian

ruler in London was preparing to flee. However, he said, unfortunately

we could only speculate, as the reality for the Jacobites had been retreat

all the way north to Culloden where on 17th April 1746 their 5000 force

was no match for the government troops under Cumberland.

Mr. McIntosh then proceeded to outline the results of his research into

the support given by the Lowlands and East of Scotland. He had found

he said that the Jacobite heartlands almost exactly matched the

traditionally strong Episcopalian areas, and at this point -he produced

details from the Muster Rolls of the numbers of men recruited from his

research area. It was evident, he said, that although no one place

provided a great number of men, support had been spread over a wide

area, as almost the whole of the coast and most inland areas in the

Lowland strip from Cromarty to Arbroath had provided support. Indeed

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Arbroath and the smaller burghs had been very pro Jacobite and for a

time there had been a Royal naval blockade of the East Coast ports.

Johnshaven had been thought so totally Jacobite that it had been

despoiled by Cumberland. He had discovered that taxes had been

collected in Dundee, Perth and Angus for the Jacobite cause although it

was obvious that support in Dundee and Perth had been less enthusiastic

in 1745 than it had been in 1715. Inverness had been under government

control for most of the time, while in Aberdeen support was mixed.

However he thought that support in Aberdeen must have been fairly

strong because it continued even after Culloden. He had found a report

which stated that the inhabitants of Aberdeen had been stoned on 1"

August 1746 by occupying British troops for refusing to show lights in

honour of the Hanoverian succession and the city had in fact been

termed `an infamous town' by the Earl of Ancrum.

This was a well-researched and constructed talk containing a great deal

of fascinating information and as I said in my vote of thanks, Mr.

McIntosh had certainly succeeded in his aim of disproving the myth of a

purely Highland Jacobite uprising. Not only had there been widespread

support given to the Jacobite cause by the people of Scotland, but there

had been a great deal of support given by the people of the East of

Scotland.

Susanne K. McEwan.

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40TH AGM AND ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATIONS

Held in the Tommy Downs Room Alloa Town Hall, 12th April 2010 at 7.00pm.

Celebration Cake

Jack Archibald & Eddie Stewart setting up the display boards

In the Entrance Hall, members were able to view two displays of the Society’s work, based on “The Mines and Mineral, of The Ochil Hills” and “The Auld Kirkyard”.

The AGM got under way promptly and was concluded by 7.45pm. In preparation for the evening’s entertainment, Eddie Stewart asked members to re-arrange their chairs into a semi-circle. This turned out to be a very effective layout for the artistes, Chapter Four.

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Chapter Four: Ian Scott Robin Duncan and Peter Davie Leader Ian Scott and his colleagues Robin Duncan and Peter Davie gave a very accomplished performance, Ian and Peter playing Guitar,

Mandolin, Penny Whistle, Flute and Bodhran (a Celtic Drum), ably backed by Peter on his Accordion. For every musical item, Ian had a short history, or a story or a joke, sometimes all three! The first half ended with “If It Wasnae For The Weavers”. Before the next part of the evening, Eddie Stewart thanked Chapter Four for such an enjoyable opening. He then introduced John Reid from Falkirk History Society, who was our last minute stand-in for Geoff Baillie. John Reid giving the Toast

John gave a Toast to the Society, congratulating members on its’ excellent record and long running success. He wished the Society many more years of success in the future. John said that he was looking forward to giving a talk in our next Winter Programme, and recalled that he had been a guide on our Evening

Walk on 8th July 2009, visiting Airth Castle, Old Village and Port.

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Betty Roy responded to the Toast, and thanked John for such an excellent Toast made at very short notice. She showed members the Quaich presented by Andrew Conoboy to mark the 25th Anniversary of the Society. She gave a special welcome to Alice Hainsworth, a Founder Member of the Society who had very recently had her 90th Birthday. Betty then cut the Anniversary Cake, baked by John Young of Aberfeldy, and declared the Buffet open; this was a splendid spread of food, contributed to very generously by many members. The second half of Chapter Four’s entertainment got underway with more stories and music, ending with “Scots Wha Hae”, which Ian Scott said he thought should be the Scottish National Anthem. Betty Roy gave a Vote of Thanks and we all went on our way with a cheery step. I would like to thank the helpers who worked so hard in the afternoon. Betty Roy MBE cutting the cake

Setting up in the afternoon.

Irene Taylor, Eddie Stewart, David Hunter, Betty Roy, Jack Archibald, Janet Wright and Sadie Archibald.

Isobel Wood

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CFSS WEEKEND AWAY

AT MELROSE (Waverley Castle Hotel) 30th APRIL 2010

On day one, twenty one members met up at Fordel Springs, Dalkeith. After Coffee, we went on to Crichton Collegiate Church, which is dedicated to St Mary and St Kentigern. Crichton Collegiate Church It was founded in 1449 and is open to the public by courtesy of Historic Scotland. Graham Meikle, one of the volunteers, showed us around and gave us an interesting talk. William Crichton, the Lord Chancellor of Scotland, started to build the church in 1440. He was head of one of the three greatest Scottish families of the time. The Church had to be very strongly built to stand the ravages of the war being fought out between the Livingstones, the Douglases and the Crichtons. With its vaulted roof, the chancel is an excellent place in which to sing. It is open every Sunday in the summer and all denominations are welcome. It gets used for Weddings, Funerals, Concerts and many other events. Sometimes, several denominations make joint use of this venue. Famous visitors to the church include Kings and Queens; the great artist JMW Turner sketched the church in 1818. The church was destroyed during the Reformation and was restored in 1706. Graham Meikle pointed out the many features of the church including some grotesque stone faces on the exterior walls and the gargoyles on the roof. Friends of Crichton Church help keep the church in good order and hope to keep it well maintained.

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VISIT TO CRICHTON CASTLE From the church, a steep embankment leads to Crichton Castle. The first thing one sees on entering is the remarkable diamond faceted façade. I for one had never seen anything like it before. We were met by the Warden, who gave us an interesting talk and tour of the buildings. The history of the Castle is summarised below. Crichton Castle and its owners This imposing building, which in itself is full of interest, has played only a small part in the history of Scotland. On the other hand, its’ various owners all played very significant roles in the centuries between 1200 and 1650. The earliest records of the estate date from the XIII Century. In the XIV Century, one John de Crichton had a Charter of Barony from King Robert III. Little else is known about him unlike his son and heir, William Crichton. However, it was probably John de Crichton who built the massive tower house, which is the oldest part of the existing ruins. William Crichton became wealthy, powerful and famous as a trusted adviser to King James I. His astute guidance of the infant King James II led to him becoming Chancellor in 1439. He made powerful enemies throughout his life, including the Black Douglas. His murder of the young sixth Earl of Douglas and his brother in 1440 led to Civil War and in 1444 he was outlawed. At the time Crichton Castle was besieged and taken by storm; most of it’s buildings being destroyed. Despite such setbacks, William Crichton returned to the royal Favour and was created Lord Crichton in 1447, becoming Chancellor again in 1448. He remained a prominent member of the Government until his death in 1454. Not only was he powerful, he became extremely wealthy and invested a great deal of his wealth in Crichton Castle. He established and endowed a nearby Collegiate Church at which the resident priests were to pray for the salvation of William and his family.

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Following his death, the family rapidly fell from influence, power and wealth. In 1484 the title and lands were forfeited and the link between the Crichton family and Crichton Castle came to an end. Crichton Castle passed into the hands of the Bothwell Family, which included the notorious James Hepburn, third husband of Mary, Queen of Scots. However, it was 1581 before a member of the Bothwell interest took up residence. An energetic, widely travelled and well educated man, Francis Stewart transformed the Castle buildings along extravagant South Europe lines. The new Bothwell’s Lodging was fit to receive a king; and in 1586 King James VI dined there. The remarkable diamond-faceted façade dates from this period. The impulsive Francis fell out of favour and in 1595 he fled abroad, never to return. By 1659, the building was falling into ruin. In 1926 the castle was gifted to the Nation. VISIT TO STOW An advance group of six members arrived during heavy rain. We had a look at the Pack Bridge which was built across the Gala Water in 1665. Stone for the bridge was taken from the Old Kirk, which was in ruins at the time. Everyone was getting wet so we pressed on to our hotel. The rest of the party arrived after the rain had gone off so they were able to go on to look at the ruined church and the old graveyard. After coffee in a local café, they too made their way to the Hotel at Melrose. Isobel Wood

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William Wallace Monument

The group on the weekend away SATURDAY, 1st May, 2010 According to legend we ought to have taken time to wash in the May dew!! However there was a full programme to be got through, thus no one was late for the 9.30am start.

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The day had dawned bright but cold, and soon we were travelling along the banks of the River Tweed where the grandeur of Floors Castle was visible. Also it was possible to pinpoint the holly bush said to be the spot where James II in 1460 was killed owing to the bursting of a cannon. The Scots regained Roxburgh Castle, but it was later destroyed on the orders of James II’s widow. A mound to our right with only two stumps at either end is all the masonry that remains as evidence that a building once defended the area from English invasions. Shortly the Tweed was joined by the River Teviot at the point where we crossed the river via the older of the two bridges, built in 1754. This earlier bridge, owing to its width, has embrasures within its walls for pedestrians to avoid the crossing vehicular traffic. The second more modern bridge was designed by Rennie in 1800, and leads directly into the town. Soon we approached the impressive Golden Gates erected in 1929 that provides a grand entrance to Floors Castle. Floors is reputed to be the largest inhabited mansion in Britain. It was built for the 1st Duke of Roxburgh in 1718, the architect being William Adam. About a century later the building was embellished and enlarged by William Playfair. The guided tour gave us an insight into the lives and customs of the inhabitants throughout the ages. Architectural features were also explained. A downside of the visit was when we were directed to a marquee in the grounds for lunch. It was a cold, blustery day and an open tent did not add to our comfort. Next on the Agenda was a visit to Kelso Abbey. This magnificent ruined building does evoke great admiration – a wow factor no less. The Abbey was founded by David I in 1128 and destroyed by the Earl of Hereford in 1543 when the Abbey inhabitants stoutly resisted the English invaders. The defenders retreated to one of the towers, but, eventually were massacred to a man. The building was at one time used by the Covenanters as a Barracks and a Gaol. The remains of the building came into State care in 1919.

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The return to Melrose was via B roads to visit monuments in the area of Dryburgh. An important monument in this area is the statue of William Wallace, erected in 1814. It stands 31 feet high and is situated on the brae of Bemersyde Hill. The statue was erected for the 11th Earl of Buchan, who was descended from the 2nd Erskine Earl of Mar, and is buried in St.Moden`s chapel – the library and vestry of Dryburgh Abbey. He is remembered as the founder of the Royal Antiquaries of Scotland; his portrait by Raeburn hangs in the Charter Room, Alloa Tower. Finally a visit to the Abbey for those who had not been in the area before. Dryburgh is one of the famous group of Border monasteries and was founded in 1152. The Cloister buildings have survived more completely than others of the same period. The fact that there are more remains to visit allows the visitor to understand the function and layout of the building. It was a pleasant afternoon and time was spent exploring the grounds and buildings. The already mentioned 11th Earl of Buchan had erected an obelisk in the grounds depicting the fate of James II when the cannon blew up and caused his death, - an interesting little tableau. Sir Walter Scott and Field Marshal, Earl Haig are buried there. Of interest Earl Haig expressed the wish that his monument be of the same style as the ordinary soldier! SUNDAY, 2nd May Next item on the programme was to visit the area to the east of Coldstream. Situated some 2 miles from the afore mentioned town is the Hirsel, the seat of the Earls of Home (pronounced Hume). As you enter the gates on the right is an impressive bronze statue commemorating the life of the 14th Earl. This Earl relinquished the title to become Prime Minister of the British Parliament as Sir Alec Douglas – Hume. For a parking ticket visitors are given unrestricted access to the grounds, (the mansion is not open to the public. Visitors can enjoy visiting the lake – well known wildlife sanctuary and Dunnock Wood, an area said to contain a greater variety of birds than any other wood of the same size. Many different types of craft shops and some heritage rooms depicting past life on the estate added to the enjoyment of the visit.

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From here we followed signs for Flodden Field. For most Scots the name and date (1513) of Flodden is imprinted on the mind. Here 12,000 of Scotland`s finest lost their lives in a single afternoon. What is more tragic is it was a time when relations with England were more favourable. Mary Tudor, wife of James IV, was the sister of Henry VIII. Henry VIII was reputed to have invaded France, and it was on France`s behalf that James raised an army to invade England. Unfortunately he had been misinformed. James IV lost his life in the battle and lay among the many dead. His body was found on the battlefield and taken to Branxton Church to be claimed. From here the programme contained visits to Heatherlaw Corn mill, Elcho Castle where James IV resided before the battle of Flodden Field, and Lady Waterford Hall. This lady was descended from the Earls of Bute. She felt the people of the district would benefit from learning the stories of the Bible from murals she had painted round the walls. Local people and children were the models used for the various characters. After an interesting day we headed for our base and a well earned rest. MONDAY, 3rd MAY. After a full programme of visits undertaken previously, it is customary to include fewer sites for the return journey. First stop was to re-visit the Leaderfoot viaduct and the Trimontium Roman Fort. The fort was the earliest Roman site on this historic river crossing. However the visible remains are the three bridges. The earliest is the magnificent 31 metre bridge dating from 1779/80; this is known as the Drygrange Bridge. The next is the 1865 Leaderfoot Railway Bridge dating from 1865. The 19 tall red sandstone pillars span 13 arches (up to 37m above the water level) present a wonderful sight. This bridge and the Drygrange Bridge were closed in 1948 due to flood damage on the other bridges.

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Trimontium – nothing now remains of this extensive Roman fort, so named by the Romans after the three Eildon hills. The fort commanded a strategic position at a key river crossing. Agricola, after he had subdued the Novantae, a local tribe of the South West of Scotland, consolidated his grip on the land by building a series of forts. The most substantial of these forts was that at Newstead positioned next to the Eildon Hills. The viewing platforms house a series of information boards that give the visitor an insight into the position of the various buildings and the function that each part served. Next we returned to the A68, then via a B road reached Mellerstain House. This imposing mansion is one of those grand Adam buildings of the 1st quarter of the 18th century and was the home of the Earl and Countess of Haddington. The house is lived in by a member of the family, and is not just a tourist attraction. Built in two stages – the first by William Adam in 1725 and secondly by Robert Adam in 1770. The ancestors of the current owners were a family called Baillie, who had owned the estate since 1642. When being guided through the house, we marvelled at the quality and amount of Dutch furniture in the various rooms. Mixed fortunes in the early days led various members of the family into imprisonment, exile and execution. This was the time of the short reign of James II when it was feared that Catholicism would once again become the norm. The Rye Plot had more impact in England but obviously also featured in Scotland. However a young and penniless George Baillie, along with his wife and children, fled to Holland to become a junior officer in the Prince of Orange`s Horse Guards. When the Prince of Orange became William III of England, family fortunes were restored so they were in a position to create this beautiful home. The interior of the house is as splendid as the exterior. The Library is often hailed as a masterpiece of Robert Adam`s work, the plaster frieze and ceiling are breathtaking and are further set off by the elegant furniture and art works. A painting of great interest to us was a large work depicting the Knights of The Thistle. We were delighted to see an image of Walter John, 12th Earl of Mar & Kellie, wearing the robes of the Order of The Thistle. There was also a portrait of John Erskine, II

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Earl of Mar, hanging in one of the rooms. Obviously there was some connection with the family at Alloa. After lunch in the Tea Room, we had a walk through the Italianate Gardens and then made our way home. All in all the 2010 Field Trip was a success and memories of those sites remain. Betty Roy.

Clackmannanshire Field Studies Society Weekend 30 April-3 May 2010

It was pleasing to be back at the Waverley Castle Hotel at Melrose on Friday evening, where a very sociable dinner was followed by the “in house” entertainment.

Having installed ourselves in the ballroom, on came the decidedly camp “host”. Here was a young man who worked his audience with great skill, trying hard to convince us that we were very different from the midweek coach parties. After all, they were all old and doddery weren’t they and, of course, we weren’t, were we? Granted there was a walking group from Peterlee, and about half of them were obviously rather younger and more energetic than most of the Clacks. crowd. Our “host” was keen to get us onto the dance floor, presumably to find out just how many of us could keep up with the Peterlee juniors. We did our best and it was a lot of fun. At least it seemed to be until, just as I was again about to join a crowd of Whirling Dervishes on the floor, Isobel quietly said to me “I’ve just spilled some red wine down your back.” Now I will mention that I was wearing a cream top and trousers. After a few steps on the dance floor, it suddenly dawned on me that I had better do something about this, and fast! First stop was the bar to get some soda water, having first to run the gauntlet of the crowd of drinkers whilst wearing an interesting ensemble of cream – and red.

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The young and charming Eastern European barman recommended salt and immediately deserted his post, disappearing in the direction of the kitchen, shortly returning with a large tumbler full. I made a quick exit to our room to remove all the interestingly coloured clothes. Meanwhile, in time-honoured fashion – the dance went on. To cut a long story short, 2 glasses of white wine, one glass of soda water and two tumblers of salt later, the cream outfit was restored to its pristine creamness. Here’s tip for the future. Don’t even think about the soda water and salt. Just go straight for the white wine – but don’t drink it! Brenda Jenkinson

Spring Weekend Trip 2010

Another very successful weekend trip in good company and with a

packed and interesting itinerary. The highlight for me was the visit to

Flodden Field where almost the entire Scottish ruling class perished on

9'h September 1513. As I stood on Branxton Hill, where James IV's

Scottish army had relocated to from the more defensible position on

Flodden Hill, Berwick Law was clearly visible and I couldn't help but

reflect how perhaps that was the last view that the thousands who

perished that day saw of their homeland. It was a very emotive moment

for me.

On a lighter note the revelation of the weekend was Betty Roy's

expertise on the dance floor. The rest of us could not compete.

I look forward to next year.

Susanne K. McEwan

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Mary McIntyre, Isobel Pearson

and Susanne McEwan at Flodden

Spring Field Trip Highlights 2010

This was another great but tiring CFSS weekend. We left Tillicoultry about 9.30 on Friday, travelled to Crichton Castle then on to Melrose to our hotel. We even had entertainment at night. On Saturday we went to Floors Castle and Kelso Abbey. On Sunday we walked round Flodden Field then on to Lady Waterford Hall which was very interesting with watercolour murals depicting scenes from the Bible painted by the Marchioness of Waterford between 1862 and 1883, using local people as models. On Monday we even managed to fit in a visit to Melrose Abbey which I last visited over 30 years ago, then on to Trimontium to see the three bridges before going to Mellerstain House, then home. I am looking forward to next year. Violet Mangin.

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May 2010 By Nancy Henderson

This year it’s south to Melrose where we are going to stay At the same hotel as six years ago for this first weekend in May We all met up at Fordel Springs for tea and special scones Twenty one members back to seven cars so we could journey on To sit on tapestry kneelers, in oak pews, for a talk In the Collegiate Church of Crichton then later had a walk To nearby Crichton Castle to hear of long ago By the guide of Historic Scotland before travelling on to Stow To admire Gala Waters medieval bridge also information boards to see But just before Friday’s journey’s end we enjoyed a break for tea Next day to Kelso for Floors Castle with a private guide for our group Then along the woodland a path, to a garden marquee, for some very welcome soup (Fine day—but cold) In the afternoon down to the Abbey in the middle of the town Founded by David the first and where James the third was crowned Then onwards to Dryburgh Abbey our last visit of the day What’s that I hear across the ancient walls? Medieval Music Played? (Historic Scotland had a recording echoing from a vaulted crypt) Do you remember Sir Alec Douglas Home, Prime Minister of late? Sunday—A stop at “The Hirsel” with a fine, life-size bronze at the gate Then a monument to a tragic battle we viewed upon a hill Overlooking the field of Flodden where James the fourth was killed A working museum at Heatherslaw Mill with a choice of things to do A walk, some lunch, or a riverbank trip on the train that leaves at two Originally a school in the village of Ford now the unique Lady Waterford Hall Biblical scenes with local faces as models, by 1883 adorned the water-coloured murals on the walls On Monday by 9.30 we are packed and on our way A little north to Mellerstain House, one visit for today A five-storey, Georgian, main house with wings built on either side Architects William Adam and son Robert were mentioned in the welcome by our guide Our weekend has been pleasant, good company, weather, food If next year we are somewhere else I’m sure it would be good

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Visit to Argaty – Red Kite Project Wed 19th May 2010

Lerrocks is a working farm on the Braes of Doune. The Bowsers, who own the farm, have created a haven for red kites that were re-introduced into Scotland after 130 years. They, provide a facility to enjoy the birds in comfort but without the risk of disturbing a still fragile population. Their supplementary feeding brings birds in regularly within view from the hide and we were lucky to have a visit even though it was early evening and past their bedtime. Best viewing is during October to March when the young are gregarious. Other birds visit including kestrel, peregrine, buzzard, sparrowhawk and hen harrier but we only managed to see oystercatchers and a wheatear. The Argaty Red Kite Project aims to integrate, raise awareness of and promote nature conservation in its day-to-day activities and is committed to good environmental practice in all its operations. It has won a green tourism award and should be supported in its efforts. “Red Kite” Mike enthusiastically gave us a tour and there were many innovations since the previous visit several years ago. There is now a visitor centre with exhibits, refreshments and a welcome loo. The centre can be hired for group activities but was very useful the evening of our visit as a place for our members to assemble it would have been particularly welcome had the weather been inclement. We were amazed at the pond(s) which have been created. These are already being used by breeding birds and surely amphibians and insects will colonise. Mike told us about a new wildflower meadow full of orchids but it was too far and too early in the summer to visit that evening. There is a bumblebee garden which they are attempting to clear of weeds and would welcome donations of plants:- particularly, the following bee plants

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Flowers for bumblebees

March - April

Apple Bluebell Broom Bugle Cherry

Erica carnea (heather)

Flowering Currant Lungwort

(Pulmonaria) Pear Plum

Pussy Willow Red dead-nettle

Rosemary White dead-nettle

May - June

Alliums Aquilegia

Birds-foot trefoil Bugle

Bush vetch Campanula Ceanothus

Chives Comfrey

Cotoneaster Escallonia

Everlasting Pea Everlasting wallflower Foxglove Geranium

Honeysuckle Kidney Vetch

Laburnum Lupin

Monkshood Poppies

Raspberries

Red Campion Roses (singles)

Sage Salvia Thyme

Tufted vetch Meadow Cranesbill

White Clover Wisteria

Woundwort

July - August

Black horehound Borage

Bramble Buddleia Cardoon Catmint

Cornflower Delphinium Heathers Hollyhock

Hyssop

Knapweed Lavender

Lesser burdock Marjoram Mellilot

Mint Penstemon Phacelia

Polemonium Purple loosestrife

Red bartsia

Red clover Rock-rose Sainfoin Scabious Sea Holly

Snapdragons St. Johns Wort

Sunflower Teasel Thistles

Viper’s bugloss

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Agrimony (agrimonia eupatoria) Angelica (angelica archangelica) Anise Hyssop (agastache foeniculum) Bergamot (monarda didyma) Bird's Foot Trefoil (lotus corniculatus) Black Horehound (ballota nigra) Bloody Cranesbill Bluebell (hyacinthoides non-scripta) Borage (borago officinalis) Bugle (ajuga repens) Cardoon (cynara cardunculus) Catmint (nepeta cataria) Chicory (cichorium intybus) Chives (allium schoenprasum) Columbine (aquilegia) Germander Speedwell (veronica chamaedrys) Globe Flower (trollius europaeus) Globe Thistle (echinops ritro) Grape Hyacinth Greater Knapweed (centaurea scabiosa) Greater Stitchwort Gypsywort Hedge Woundwort (stachys sylvestris) Herb Robert (geranium robertianum) Hollyhock (althaea rosea) Hound's Tongue (Cynoglossum) Hyssop (hyssopus officinalis) Ice Plant (sedum) Lemon Bergamot Lady's Smock (cardamine pratensis) Lambs Ears (stachys byzantine) Lavender (lavendula) Lemon Balm (melissa officinalis) Lesser Celandine Lovage (levisticum officinale) Marjoram (origanum majorana) Meadow Clary (salvia pratensis) Meadowsweet (filipendula ulmaria) Mint Mullein (verbascum) Musk Mallow (malva moschata)

Oxlip Painted sage (slavia horminum) Pasque Flower (pulsatilla vulgaris) Penstemon Poached Egg (limnanthes douglasii) Poppy (papaver) Purple Loosestrife (lythrum salicaria) Ragged Robin (lychnis flos-cuculi) Red Clover (trifolium pratense) Red Valerian (centranthus ruber) Rock Rose (helianthemum mummularium) Rosemary (rosmarinus officinalis) Sainfoin (onobrychis vicifolia) Selfheal (prunella vulgaris) Small Scabious (scabiosa columbaria) Spiked Speedwell (veronica spicata) Sweet Cicely Sweet William (dianthus barbatus) Thyme (thymus) Tickewwed (coreopsis) Toadflax (linaria vulgaris) Valerian (valeriana officinalis) Viper's Bugloss (echium vulgare) Wild Basil (clinopodium vulgaris) Wild Clematis (clematis vitalba) Wild Mignonette (reseda lutea) Wild Privet (ligustrum vulgare) Yellow Archangel Yellow Flag Iris (iris pseudacorus) Yellow Loosestrife

It was a lovely evening out and we can recommend a visit to Argaty at any time of year. Marilyn Scott

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LINLITHGOW LOCH

The second of our evening walks on 9th June 2010 took us to Linlithgow and to use a navigational term, to circumnavigate the loch. The weather was kind to us that evening when we met at the Medical Centre car park for the 30 minute 19 mile journey to the “Loch in the damp hollow”. Gaelic, for Linlithgow I have been informed. We assembled in the car park adjacent to Tesco, from there we crossed a very busy road, to join the path to take us around the Loch. The Loch was created by the Ice Age ten thousand years ago. It makes a beautiful setting. A well constructed path of 2.7 miles follows the perimeter of the Loch which is very easy going except in the proximity of the Palace where the ground rises, approximately 20 meters, over a short distance. No problems were incurred surmounting this obstacle. As well as interesting views, the Loch supports a considerable amount of recreational pursuits such as dinghy sailing which seems to be very popular; on the occasion when I was there; fishing was another activity I saw, this was mainly from boats. Dog walking and just plain walking enjoying the scenery seemed to be the norm. There also was abundant wild life. Most prolific was the bird life, swans by the dozen, geese, ducks mallard and tufted, coots and moorhens. We were fortunate to see two swans’ nests quite close to the bank with the swans sitting on them. We also saw a couple of coots with their young close to the bank. Two focal points overlooking the Loch were Linlithgow Palace and St Michael’s Church. These were part of a Saturday outing on 25th August 2007. Both places are steeped in history. The Palace was originally a Manor House, converted into a fortress by Edward 1 during his rampages in the late 13th century. The Stewart James’ did various alterations over the years. James V, born there in 1512, added the outer gateway and an elaborate fountain which has been recently restored. James V1 built the north ranges in 1618 and 1622, but the last reigning monarch to stay there was Charles 1 in 1633. The closing accounts of the Palace in 1745 stated that Bonnie Prince Charlie visited but did not stay overnight. In January 1746 the Duke of Cumberland destroyed most of the Palace by fire.

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St Michael’s Parish Church next to the Palace has been there as long as the Palace. David 1 granted a charter to establish a church in 1138, burnt down in 1424; most of the present building dates from mid 15th century. There were large renovations made in the 19th century. In December 1542 Mary Queen of Scots was baptised there. Alterations were made to the interior during the Reformation, when a lot of the original artefacts were lost. It is said that on their visit, Oliver Cromwell’s troops stabled their horses in the nave. In 1821 the Crown Tower was removed due to it being unsafe. It was finally replaced in 1964 by an aluminium crown very controversial at the time. Personally I think it is an outstanding feature. It was a very leisurely walk enjoyed by everyone and it was remarked on how tidy the area was kept. Jack Archibald.

ARDOCH FORT 23rd June 2010

Leader: Eddie Stewart The Guide for the evening was Malcolm Kelly from Braco. It was a showery evening, attended by 14 members.

THE ROMAN REMAINS AT ARDOCH

Ardoch Fort is on private property, but open to pedestrian visitors. The land is used for grazing, and is heavily burrowed by rabbits. Watch for rabbit holes. Ground is very uneven and in places unstable. Beware when walking of sudden deep earth-collapses.

Ardoch main fort is on a typical site for Roman fortifications - on a high plain, flanked by the River Knaik. ("Ardoch" means "high plain".) The oldest Roman remains at Ardoch date from the earliest Roman presence in Scotland. Ardoch is famous in archaeological science as the place

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where darkened ground was first recognised as indicating post holes, enabling researchers to identify former buildings that had not had stone foundations. The raised area in the middle of the fort is NOT imperial. It is what remains of a mediaeval church, identified as Chapel Raith, or Church of the Fortifications, belonging to the Priory of Inchmahome. The pack-bridge west of the fort is ecclesiastical. Romans probably had a wooden bridge.

Romans first invaded Britain under Julius Caesar in 55 and 54 BC. There was, however, no serious attempt by Rome to control Britain until 43 AD under Emperor Claudius. Tacitus (now considered not always reliable) claimed Scotland was conquered between 80 AD and 84 AD by General Gnaeus Julius Agricola, his father-in-law. Modern evidence suggests Agricola merely added administrative superstructure to earlier incursion successes. Romans considered Britain a savage country and Scotland the outermost reach of the Empire. Present view is that fortifications in Scotland were the earliest example of the Empire's "Chinese Wall" against "barbarity", replicated in Germanic lands. Archaeological evidence in Britain testifies to the uneasiness of the occupying forces. Even before entering what is now Scotland, a line of forts and a military road (formerly attributed to Agricola, but also perhaps earlier) established between the Tyne and the Solway along the line of what became known as Hadrian's Wall. Soon afterwards a further line of forts was established between the rivers Forth and Clyde along the line of what later became the Antonine Wall. (This is in the general vicinity of the Forth and Clyde Canal and of the subsequent main Glasgow-Edinburgh railway line.) Both Roman lines were in their time the frontier of Empire, though not necessarily the limit of Romanisation, as client tribes beyond accepted peace payments.

The Empire never formally reached beyond the Antonine Wall. Thus, Ardoch was in potentially very hostile territory. Agricola's efforts did not consolidate Roman gains in Scotland. The early fort at Ardoch was evacuated. From 90 AD to 105 AD the most northerly Roman Forts in active use were just north of the Cheviots. Then there was a further withdrawal. In 122 AD Emperor Hadrian visited Britain and decided on the Solway-Tyne line as the most effective frontier, initiating

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strengthening of that boundary. The next Emperor, Antoninus Pius, ordered fresh invasion of Scotland, and c 140 AD ordered the building of a turf wall on the line of the earlier Roman forts between the Forth and Clyde. There followed renewed incursions into Scotland. Ardoch was one of the forts that were reoccupied, acting as an outpost to the Antonine Wall. The new fort was in the same position as the first one, but much smaller. Old ditches were re-used but new ones dug inside the perimeter of the old fortifications, providing extra protection. After about 15 years, the fort was reduced in size again, with new ditches providing even more protection. The present visible ramparts were established in this phase. Formerly ramparts had a stone front and earth and turf backing, but all the stone is gone. Romans gradually withdrew from north Britain. During the contest for the imperial throne in 196 AD even Hadrian's Wall was abandoned. In 208 AD Emperor Septimus Severus mounted a punitive expedition into Scotland, pausing at Ardoch in a very large marching camp northwest of the fort. He set his boundary of the Roman Empire at Hadrian's Wall.

Major visible features of Ardoch Ardoch site today has a number of visible earthworks, comprising the fort, the fort annexe to the north of the fort, marching camps and roads. The visibly impressive fort has discernable remnants of superimposed occupations. Ditches are still deep, particularly north and east. The east exit has a defensive tight bend. Key to fort sketch:

1. Car park 2. Lintel of Victoria Gate, commemorating V&A royal visit 3. Pedestrian entrance 4. Ploughed-down remains of south western ditches 5. South gate 6. Elaborate ditch system on east side 7. Causeway of east gate 8. Defensive turn of east gate causeway 9. East gate 10. Rampart of second Antonine fort (c. 158 AD) 11. Typical Roman curved corners 12. North gate 13. North rampart of first Antonine fort (c. 142 - 158 AD)

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14. North of the fort are remains of the fort annexe - visible remains being low, uneven, irregular ramparts. 15. The causeway of the road leading north from the fort can be followed along

the eastern edge of the Field. 16. West gate

SKETCH OF ARDOCH FORT (image from Scran with no numbering)

The fort annexe is surrounded by a clearly visible irregular earthwork north of the fort. It takes dedication to find marching camps! The road is

easier to find: the road from the east gate meets it as a T -junction, running alongside the camp, north and south. Northward on the present A822 about 2 miles north of Ardoch it reaches Kaims Castle, a Roman

signal station opposite Orchil. The road can be traced to the fort of Strageath near Crieff, where it turns east to the Gask Ridge, where long

stretches of it, and many signal stations on it, can readily be found. The above information was supplied by Dr. Catherine Smith. After a wonderful walk and talk the group went to Catherine’s house in Braco for tea and cakes. Everyone enjoyed the evening very much. Isobel Wood

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PLEAN COUNTRY PARK

Wednesday 28th July 2010, saw the return of the Field Studies to Plean Country Park after a gap of seven years. My, how time flies! I can’t believe it was Wednesday 25th June 2003 since we were last there. I was just a sprog with the Field Studies then. Eddie did his usual good job of getting us there and also arranging a guide in the form of Jennifer Davidson, the Countryside Ranger for the Park. Also in attendance was the Chair of The Friends of Plean Country Park, whose name was Fran, sorry, but I didn’t catch her surname. We will put that aside as we could not have had two more agreeable people and so knowledgeable to boot. When we got ourselves together Jennifer gave a description of the Park; how it was, how it is now, and the hope for the future. They intend to enhance the surroundings with the help of a five million pound lottery grant which they have applied for. We started our walk in an entirely different direction from our last visit and on the way she explained the habitat of the grounds and the bird life of the area we were in. En-route explaining how a coal bing which had been a landmark of the site was moved from one side of the park to the other by means of conveyor belts. This was initiated because it was felt it could move, cause a land slip and destroy the houses in the immediate vicinity, creating another Aberfan-type disaster. This area where the bing was has now been reclaimed by nature and the help of some replanting. When we walked through the wooded area we came across remnants of the shale which constituted the bing. Coming to the meadow area Jennifer explained the system of zones that had been created to try and distinguish the different flora and fauna. She also explained to us that the meadow contained some of the best wild orchid growing regions in Scotland, namely the Greater Butterfly Orchid, Twayblade, and Spotted Orchid to name a few. Continuing on one of the many paths in the park we reached the main drive which led to the Georgian House part of the original estates. It is now a roofless ruin, a sad end to Plean House. Before reaching the house we were pointed to Badger tracks on the banking at the side of a ditch. First time for me! Also we investigated a cave-like structure

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reputed to be the Ice House of the main house when in its heyday. We then approached the house and investigated the stone work which was still in reasonable condition considering it was built in 1819 and been derelict for 30 years or so. It was then on to the wild pond with a myriad of insects and amphibians, dragonflies, damselflies, pond skaters and many more not forgetting the frogs and newts. We finished with the Walled Garden with the wall in good condition but I am afraid the garden leaves a lot to be desired. One highlight is the apple trees, which have survived the rundown, different varieties, all appertaining to Scotland. The Garden is definitely going to be part of the regeneration programme. Time ran out, and we have to thank Jennifer and Fran for a very interesting evening and let us hope their Lottery application is successful. We promised to return next year to see the remainder of the estate and even more improvements. To finish off a short history of Plean Estate gleaned from Eddie’s notes. Robert Haldane 1705 – 1767 purchased the estate from the Earl of Dunmore (made a fortune from the East India Co.) inherited by his nephew who died in debt in 1799. Purchased by Francis Simpson in early 1800’s – Built the mansion house in 1819; in the Simpson ownership until 1894. Bought by Wallace Thorneycroft in 1894. Until 1972, he was the person who developed the mines in the area. Taken over by National Coal Board in 1972 and sold to Stirling County Council 1988 who developed it into a Country Park with help of The Ranger Service. Jack Archibald

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MUCKHART TO DOLLAR VIA MUCKHART MILL

The last of our evening walks took place on Wednesday 11th Aug 2010, on a slightly different route as stated in the programme. Thirteen members took part in what turned out to be a fine evening after the rain during the day. In some places it was a bit damp under foot but we managed to traverse the worst parts and they were no casualties during our endeavour. It was maybe a case of the deil’s aye guid to his ain, or the sun shines on the righteous, which, ever way you want look at it. The walk was adapted from Clackmannanshire Ramblers’ Walks compiled by Eric Howman a member of C.F.S.S. My first job was to organize a suitable place to park the cars as we had to have transport at Dollar and Muckhart, as to attempt a circular walk was asking too much for one evening. Establishing a parking place in Dollar was achieved in Station Road adjacent to the platform of what was Dollar railway station, long gone, probably due to Dr Beeching’s closures. Following instructions and maps from the booklet I proceeded with my recce` and ended up at Leys Farm on the outskirts of Muckhart (the Pool that is). Actually in times gone by it was a village of three parts, Yetts, Pool and Leys. The farm is the only remaining part of that scenario now. It was fortunate I met the farmer’s son when I was passing through the farmyard and he kindly made arrangements to park cars as a dropping off point for the start of the walk. From there it was a case of doing the return leg by a different route also following the instructions in the booklet I made it back to the railway platform at Dollar, feeling a bit worse for wear. I decided to do the walk via the return journey as it had proved to be more interesting. Having confirmed with the farmer the time and date of the walk I was quite confident we could make it on the night if we started ½ hour earlier than usual due to the drawing in of the evenings. On the night we left Leys farm about 7.10 pm and walked to Muckhart primary school; after a slight hitch we found the path that kept us off the highway. Muckhart golf course came into view on our left and after a

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few hundred metres we were back on the road where the sign was indicating Dollar 2½ miles. I have my doubts about the distance stated. However, we plodded on and we came to an open space where we were treated to a magnificent panoramic view looking west along the Devon valley, with the Ochils on the right, Campsies in front and the Saline Hills on the left. It was a perfect view. We carried on an undulating path until we reached a junction and turned right, from there on it was downhill all the way to the valley floor and some of the sights of the evening. Firstly the 19th century limekiln which still seems in good condition (stone-work wise), I have not been able to find out much more about it. We then came to Muckhart mill, there again not much information, seemingly there were three building periods, 1666 – 1717 – 1727. It still has its waterwheel, (20ft overshot wheel, wooden arms and cast iron outer frame). I don’t think it works now but it certainly looks impressive. A piece of information I came across, it was converted into a children’s holiday home in 1967, but its present function I cannot say. The building, looks in quite good condition, a sign at the entrance says, Muckhart Mill House. There is also a lovely statue of a horse in the garden. Looking down over the bridge we see the confluence of the Hole Burn and the River Devon which is very picturesque. Adjacent to the Mill is a row of cottages, probably of the same age. A sign on one of the doors reads, Muckhart Mill Bothy. We follow the path to another junction and then a left turn for another 200 metres to another sign post pointing to a field this time with a herd of cows, this was traversed without incident, from then the path was a bit more defined until we reached a stile which with some ingenuity we managed to get through without climbing. We reached the road from Blairingone to Pitgober which we followed and passed Pitgober House. From there we were in a field again and another herd of cows with some sheep thrown in. It was now a case of following our nose so to speak, and hopefully find the platform we were looking for before the light faded completely. On our left during the last part of our walk we were able to see the embankment and the remains of the viaduct of the Devon Valley Line.

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We all made it back, and the car drivers were whisked back to Leys Farm to collect their vehicles, then back to Dollar to fetch the rest of their passengers. It turned out to be a very pleasant evening helped by the weather, beautiful scenery and congenial company. We thank Mr Wilson and his son Graeme for parking facilities at Leys Farm. Jack Archibald

UNIVERSITY OF DUNDEE BOTANIC GARDENS AND

DUNDEE VERDANT WORKS JUTE MUSEUM, DUNDEE Saturday May 29th 2010 Leader Eddie Stewart

BOTANIC GARDENS This was the first of the Saturday outings planned for 2010; 14 of us turned out and the weather was kind to us. We walked all around the gardens before having a picnic lunch. A shower persuaded us into the hot houses; these proved to be really interesting. In fact, the whole visit can only be described as excellent. These Gardens are laid out on a geographic plan, so the visitor can walk through the temperate regions of the world in one morning! We were especially taken with the Magnolia trees, just coming into flower. The regions on show run from the Mediterranean to East Asia. Central to the layout is the British Native Plant area. There are twelve Areas in all: a) Herb Garden and Mediterranean Plants b) Conifers c) Roses, Mixed Trees and Shrubs

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d) Garden of Evolution e) Native Plants f) Larch, Psuedodolarix and Redwoods g) Desert and Tropical Plants h) North and South American Plants i) Birch, Evergreens, Oaks, Southern Beech j) Beech and Sir Garnet Wilson’s Sycamore k) Australasian plants l) Asian Plants, Including Rhododendrons. There is a coffee shop in the Gardens; this has lovely cakes for sale. A very nice place for a short break. History Detailed planning for the Botanic Garden began in 1970, based upon a paper written in 1966 by Dr. Hugh Ingram. Great care was taken to develop a low cost operating budget. This has been achieved right up to the present day. The table set out below gives an idea of how the plan progressed. 1971 Garden established and first ceremonial plants in October. 1972 First structure plantings, including semi-mature tree

specimens from countryside. Herb Garden, from funds donated by Inner Wheel of Dundee.

1974 British Plant Communities Unit started, including construction of first burn.

1975 Construction of plant houses. Donation from Stanley Smith Horticultural Trust.

1976/77 Construction of gates. Formerly at the driveway of Glamis House, 367 Perth Road. Given to Garden by Bovis Homes.

Inscription: QUIRE AGITE 0 PROPRIOS

GENERA TIM DISCITE CULTUS (Come then and learn what tilth to each belongs according to its kind).

1979 Civic Trust Award to Garden for landscape.

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1979/80 Bandusian Well built.

Inscription: 0 Fons Bandusiae Hail Bandusian spring Slendidior vitro Brighter than crystal Dulci digne mero Worthy of garlands and Non sine floribus best wine

1980/81 Loch Machar constructed from donations by Mr A Machar,

ex-Curator of Grounds, University of Dundee. Eddie Kemp, first Curator of the Garden, received an

Honorary Degree at the Graduation Ceremony, July 1980 1984 Opening of Visitor Centre, designed by Mr Jack Fulton,

built from funds raised from University's Centenary Appeal. Two Civic Trust Commendations, a Regional Award from the RIBA and, in 1989, a National Award from the RIBA. The toilets were designed and built separately and completed immediately before the Visitor Centre was opened.

1985/87 Construction of paths, installation of water supply and layout of plantings at Taypark.

1987/89 Mediterranean Section. 1990 Botanic Garden and Grounds Merge. 1992 Rest House in Taypark donated by Friends of the Garden to

commemorate 21st birthday of the Garden. 1998 September. Curator Les Bisset retires from the Garden and

new Curator, Alasdair Hood takes over. November. Coffee Shop opens. Operated by University

until contracted out to DUSA. 1999 First Education Officer appointed. (Dr Gillian Galbraith). 2000 Les Bisset, the second Curator of the Garden received an

Honorary Degree at the Graduation Ceremony in November 2000. First professional operator takes over the running of the Coffee Shop. (Derek Boden).

2002 Coffee Shop kitchen extension. 2003 March. New professional operator takes over the Coffee

Shop. (Ian Stirrat). October. New Education Office starts at the garden. (Dr

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Neil Paterson). 2004 February. Tarring of car park.

November. Car park lighting installed and introduction of interpretation in the Garden.

2004 Creation of new office at the top of the Visitor Centre. Old office made into new classroom. (Ardvreck sale - means we lose the classroom space we had in there).

2005 New Education Centre built in the Garden at a cost of £65,000 - this is now our new classroom space and office for Education Officer. Coffee Shop extended into our old classroom providing more seating and a new baking kitchen is created in our old office. Funded by University of Dundee, Friends of the University of Dundee Botanic Garden.

Because there is such a variety of things to see, the entry fee of £2.00 is very reasonable.

VERDANT JUTE WORKS VISIT

The group then moved on to the Verdant Works Museum, which is a monument to what was once the main Dundee industry – Flax. It is a fascinating place to visit, very well laid out and easy to get around. There is a small café, where members collected together.

There was no organized tour, so we were free to roam around at will, enjoying the displays, exhibits and different experiences. Some of us had a game of hop-scotch!

Jute was a major product, in demand world wide, and Dundee became known as “Juteopolis”. 50,000 people, mainly women and children, worked in the mills. Jute was used in the manufacture of carpets, sacks, sails, tarpaulins and even the covered wagons or “Prarie Schooners” of the American West. It was environmentally renewable, but was allowed to be replaced by non renewables such as polypropylene. Some companies adapted to the new technology, but most went out of business and the workers on to the dole.

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Both visits made today were interesting and enjoyable. Thanks are due to Eddie Stewart for his excellent arrangements.

Isobel Wood

FALKIRK AREA CASTLES AND TOWERS 19th June 2010

Leader: Betty Roy MBE

A group of twelve members started off in lovely weather. We were met at Airth Castle Hotel by Geoff Bailey of Falkirk Local History Society, who gave us an interesting talk about the history and architecture of the castle. NOTE. The writer was only able to attend a short part of the day. AIRTH CASTLE HOTEL This building dates from the XIV Century. In an earlier castle on this site, Sir William Wallace rescued his uncle, who was besieged by an English force. That Castle, built by the Bruce family, was burnt by King James III in 1488 before the Battle of Sauchieburn, but was restored by James IV. Geoff Bailey is very knowledgeable about the architecture of the Castle and was able to give us lots of detail. Airth Castle started life earlier than its near neighbour, Airth Tower. From the south, it has the appearance of a traditional L- shaped Tower House, but from the north it looks like a Manor House. During the 1400s a naval shipyard was on the shores of the river Forth at Airth, and the Port of Airth served the many local coal mines. Geoff told us that there was a record of wind-powered sawmills which processed local timber needed by the yard. Gradually, the Forth silted up on the south west shore and Airth ceased to be a port after 1700. Close to the Hotel are the ruins of the Airth Old Parish Church, part of which dates back to the 1100s, but most of the building dates from 1650s

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and it was abandoned in 1820. The ruins are unsafe and so we were unable to enter them. We went round by the stables which have been made into a conference centre and sports centre. Airth is unusual in having two Mercat Crosses. We walked down to see the old Mercat Cross. Part of the original sundial can still be seen. THE DUNMORE PINEAPPLE The group moved on to see what has been described as “the most bizarre building in Scotland” Built in 1761, the first floor of this building consists of cantilever masonry in the realistic shape of a 45 foot high pineapple. Originally, pineapples were grown in an adjoining summer house, heated by furnaces. The chimneys for the furnace can still be seen, heavily disguised as stone vases. A well laid out orchard has been planted in front of the building which has been converted to two flats which are rented out by the NTS. DUNMORE TOWER From the Pineapple, the group walked up to Dunmore Tower, which is sometimes referred to as the Elphinstone Tower or Airth Tower. It lies in the Dunmore Estate and was built for Sir John Elphinstone of Airth in about 1510. It now consists of a ruined rectangular keep, which was once four storeys high. The Keep was finally used as a mausoleum; it was sad to see that vandals had broken into the tombs and disturbed the coffins from their resting places. Then the group drove off to; TORWOOD or TAPPOCH BROCH This structure lies close to the Roman Road and is thought to be built on the site of a Round House built probably after the Roman Occupation.

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It is surrounded by two earth banks on three sides; on the west side is a steep precipice. Access to the Broch is by footpath on the south east side, signposted as a footpath to Denovan. It passes through a commercial forest and users are asked to respect this property. The group had a picnic at the Broch. TORWOOD CASTLE Torwood Castle was built around the year 1566 for Sir Alexander Forrester of Garden. It was the seat of Clan Forrester and was built by the Lords Forrester, who supplied the Crown with timber. They were appointed hereditary keepers of the nearby King’s Royal Forest of Torwood by James III (1437-1460). In the early 17th century, the castle passed to the Baillies and then the Forresters of Corstorphine (now part of Edinburgh) in 1653. Torwood is a Scottish Baronial style castle with a three-storey main block facing south and a five-storey wing projecting northwards, with a square stair-tower projecting from the two. The castle was acquired in 1957 by a Glasgow accountant who single-handedly began a slow restoration over the next 40 years. It is now under the auspices of the Torwood Castle Trust. After seeing the Castle the group drove to: DUNIPACE Geoff took the group to a modern graveyard in Dunipace which proved to be very interesting. From here The Hill of Dunipace (Sacred Hill) could be seen. This notable feature has a long but not well documented history as a place where peace treaties and other solemn events took place; an alternative name is “Hill of Peace”.

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There are reports of the Roman Emperor Septimus Severus, William Wallace, Edward I and Robert Bruce being associated with events at this place. This was a very enjoyable day and Betty Roy gave Geoff a very well deserved vote of thanks. Isobel Wood

Members of the CFSS on their day out to

Summerlee Museum of Scottish Industrial Life

SUMMERLEE MUSEUM OF SCOTTISH INDUSTRIAL LIFE

Members learned what it took to become an iron man when they visited Summerlee, the Museum of Scottish Industrial Life, at Coatbridge on Saturday, July 24, 2010.

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In the 19th century, the Summerlee Ironworks was a forerunner in the use of hot-blast iron smelting – a process that made Coatbridge famous as Scotland’s Iron Burgh. From the interactive and stationary displays in the museum which stands on the site of the old iron works, the group learned that such was the development of the iron industry in the local area that by 1869 it was Scotland’s largest iron-producing area with around 50 blast furnaces in operation. Summerlee Ironworks was set up in 1836 by John Neilson, inventor of the hot blast process. He discovered that by blowing heated air into the blast furnace, he could make better iron and cut costs. (Neilson was from the engineering dynasty in Glasgow which built everything from railway locomotives to the giant beam engine, housed in the still standing engine house at Fishcross, which pumped water from the Devon Colliery) By 1842, Summerlee had six furnaces and at its peak produced 145,000 tonnes of iron per annum. Ironworkers had to work 12 hour shifts with only one day off a fortnight. Employers deducted money from their wages to cover the cost of tools, doctor’s fees and company schools, leaving little to live on and families struggled to make ends meet. Workers lived in houses owned by the company. Members saw the basic living conditions which had been recreated in the museum’s own miner’s row. Coal was the fuel that powered the ironworks and members had the chance to go underground when they visited the recreated adit mine. Ten of us went through what is left of the mine on the Summerlee site. It gave us a good insight of what went on at the turn of the 1800s up to probably the 1930s. It was very narrow and we had to keep to the left hand side as it was the safest part to walk on. We had to walk stooped as the height was not all that great. The two guides had a torch each which gave us very little light. The miners were confined to very small places

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and worked 16 hours a day, 6 days a week. They got Sunday off to go to church. The conditions were bleak. Summerlee also has its own tramway and runs both Edwardian and modern tramcars brought from Glasgow, Lanarkshire and Europe. Another form of transport, the canal, is represented. Summerlee was built next to the Monkland Canal which was constructed in 1770 to carry coal to Glasgow. A section of the canal has been restored and is a picturesque setting for walks and picnics. After a day exploring the various displays, the members came away enriched by their visit which told them of the triumphs and the tears of Scotland’s Iron Burgh. David Bytheway

TENTSMUIR AND ST. ATHERNASE CHURCH. Saturday, 21st August, 2010 –

The Gods were smiling upon us when we attended the final CFSS outing to Tentsmuir Forest Park, they provided good weather. Parking within the forest was quite exciting and unusual considering that the area was once covered by water. In earlier times the coast line was much farther inland than it is to-day. We followed the Sea Shell route to the 19th century Icehouse, a distance of three and one half miles. The Icehouse, again now a good bit inland, was originally built to preserve the salmon caught off-shore. As we walked through the forest there was ample evidence of historic sand dunes, now hosting a variety of trees and plants. Plants help the wind-blown sand to be trapped, allowing dunes to be formed. Sea Rocket traps sand on the seaward edge, allowing low fore dunes to form. Sand Couch Grass also traps wind-blown sand on the

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upper beach allowing low hillocks to form. On these hillocks Marram Grass can form just beyond the reach of the tides. When looking for evidence of the Marram Grass, one sees a small single stalk, then this develops into a double and from these small beginnings sand dunes become covered with the Marram Grass. If more sand builds up than is washed away in storms, sand dunes can grow. Most of the sand comes from the washout in the River Tay and is conveyed by the currents to Tentsmuir. The earliest people to colonise the area were the Mesolithic and later Neolithic peoples around 8,000 years ago. Also, Bronze Age people have left traces of smelting furnaces, and at the time when Iron Age people arrived they brought cattle with them. The Romans arrived in AD80 and established camps on the moorland, and 800 years ago Vikings arrived and settled. Our time at Tentsmuir was fascinating and our visit was worthwhile. After a picnic lunch, our objective was to visit the 12th century Church of St. Athernase which dates back to the 12th century. The Church is one of the finest examples of Norman architecture in Britain and proudly stands on a grassy knoll overlooking the village. On arrival we were met by Leuchars`own Mrs Roy who explained the various ages of the building. Housed within the Apse there was a fragment of Culdee architecture and also some Viking carving. The group showed great interest in the church and had to be ushered out so that we could get to the Church Hall where tea and goodies awaited us. This was a most pleasant part of the day and the refreshments were greatly appreciated. Betty Roy.

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DOORS OPEN DAYS VISITS SUNDAY AFTERNOON 5TH SEPTEMBER 2010

After our successful visit to Tullibole Castle last year, it was suggested that we should set aside a day in September to attend some Doors Open Days venues. When we received our copies of the Doors Open Days programme it was decided that Gean House and Glenmore House, both in Alloa would be very interesting places to visit. This worked out fine as very little travelling was involved. Sixteen members of the society met at our usual stomping ground and proceeded to our first port of call, Gean House. On arrival we stood back and looked at a magnificent Elizabethan – Jacobean Mansion built by Alexander P. Forrester – Paton grandson of the founder of Paton and Baldwins woollen and worsted spinners of Alloa. By that time a woollen empire which was later to span the globe. It was built in 1912 as a wedding present for his eldest son, also Alexander. It was designed by a local architect, William Kerr who had various other works to his credit locally. In 1951, Gean House was gifted to the Scottish Temperance Society, who used it as a Bible Study Centre for thirty years. It was then used as a luxury hotel by various owners till it was acquired by Clackmannanshire Enterprises. At the present time, Ceteris (Scotland) Ltd operate the building as a Day and Residential Conference Centre. On entering the house we were met by some beautiful wood panelling at the entrance hall and vestibule which carried on to the main staircase on the left and the library on the right. Information sheets were handed out giving us a route to follow and a comprehensive description of the rooms and their decor. The main hall was something beyond belief, with an inglenook fire place and its minstrel gallery which connects to the upper floor hallway serving the bedrooms. The Garden Room, Drawing Room, Billiard Room, Dining

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Room all had their special appointments. Upstairs to the bedrooms, which again were something special and a word must be said about the original Edwardian plumbing, still in working order. Then it was outside to the garden, not in its original splendour but very neat and tidy. With the leaflets to hand, we were able to go around at our own pace which helps one to digest all the information. With the Gean House under our belt it was on to 23 Claremont (Glenmore House) originally known as Gracedieu House. Built in 1868 for William Bailey, this house was designed by another Alloa Architect, John Melvin. William Bailey and his brother John Asbury Bailey ran the Alloa Pottery which had been bought by their father Joseph Bailey in 1856. John Bailey died in 1905, Wm. Bailey retired in 1907 and the pottery was closed due to a decline in orders. He died in 1916. Twenty Three Claremont is nothing like the size of the Gean House, but never the less a very interesting building. William’s brother, John, built a house next door and is said the two houses were connected by a passageway. There is not a great deal of evidence at present showing the actual construction, or what it looked like. The present owner has done a wonderful job on the renovation of the building in the relatively short time of ownership, and we were shown an album of photos detailing the different stages of the progress made. The owner gave us a descriptive tour of the house and I must say, give credit where credit is due, he has done a marvellous job. We wish him all the best in his new venture. The garden had some interesting features including a fountain and two gazebos with three vintage cars on the lawn. I think we had a very fulfilling afternoon especially where I am concerned. I did not know 23 Claremont existed until Doors Open Days. Jack Archibald.