Issue one

St Ives Hayle Penzance Lands End St Just

Days out in West Cornwallby boot, bus and branchlinein association with First in Devon & Cornwall

Issue one

Days out in West Cornwall

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introduction

...what shall we do this weekend?

Surround yourself with the richvariety of experiences on offer,explore our unique environment.Think Global - Stay Local.

Everything you need for abreathtaking day out is right here inWest Cornwall, whether you are aresident or on holiday.

enjoy

outstanding natural beauty unspoilt beaches ancient ruins stunning landscapes enchanting walksworld heritage family fun parks world-class culturemuseums, galleries and theatre

Public enquiries tourism@penwith.gov.ukTrade enquiries david.rutherford@penwith.gov.uk

contents

2 map

4 beautiful britain

9 7 ways

10 explore

12 south coast

16 the prom

18 far west

22 north coast

26 gardens

28 beaches

30 ancient sites

32 resources

34 on your doorstep

36 the AONB

38 food

44 festivals

46 art and culture

48 made in Cornwall

50 town plans

52 days out

56 attractions

64 accommodation

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LAND’S END

PORTHCURNO

ST BURYAN

LAMORNA

MOUSEHOLEMOUNT’S BAY

ST IVES BAY

PRAA SANDS

PENZANCE

MARAZIONSENNEN

ST JUST

GOLDSITHNEY

HAYLE TOWANS

TOWNSHEND

MADRON

GWITHIANVILLAGE

MORVAHMORVAH

GRUMBLA

GURNARDSHEADGURNARDSHEAD

PERRANUTHNOE

LELANT

CAPE CORNWALL

PENDEEN

ZENNOR

NEWMILL

ST IVES

GODREVY

CARBIS BAY

HAYLE

ST ERTH

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D

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Penzance-Newlyn-Lands End

Penzance-Marazion-Helston-Falmouth

Penzance-Newlyn-Mousehole

St Ives-Hayle-Camborne-Truro

St Ives-Penzance-St Just

Penzance-Hayle-Camborne-Truro

Penzance-Newlyn-Lands End

St Ives-Pendeen-Lands End

St Ives-Hayle-Marazion-Penzance

Penzance-Marazion-Hayle-Godrevy

Hayle Towans-Hayle-St Erth

Penzance-Grumbla

Penzance-Zennor-St Ives

Penzance-Nancledra-St Ives

Lands End Circular

Penzance-Lamorna

St Ives-Hayle-Helston

101

key to bus routes2 3

...what shall we do this weekend?

This map shows the West Cornwall area, the maintowns and villages and the featured attractions.

The bus routes are shown colour coded to help youfind your way around.

5 miles (approx)

1 Paradise Park2 St Ives September Festival3 Tate St Ives4 Wayside Folk Museum5 Geevor Tin Mine6 Levant Tin Mine7 Land’s End8 Minack Theatre9

10 Trengwainton Garden11 Penlee House Gallery12 Acorn Arts Centre13 Jubilee Pool14 St Michael’s Mount15 Trewidden Garden16 Trereife Garden

A Carn EunyB Men-An-TolC Lanyon QuoitD Madron WellE Chysauster VillageF Merry Maidens

Porthcurno Telegraph Museum

www.beautifulbritain.net

‘landscapes,seascapes andglittering light’

beautiful britain

An introduction to West CornwallCourtesy of Beautiful Britain magazine.

The western tip of Cornwall provides some of the mostevocative and breathtakingly dramatic stretches of coastline inBritain, and has inspired so many artists over the years.

Maybe it’s the colour of the sea that’s the most enticing thing about Cornwall’sfurthest reaches. The sapphire green-blue of the Atlantic sparkling in the sunlight isevery bit as exotic as any Caribbean beach and it’s no wonder that surfers, diversand sailors flock to this evocative peninsula.

But Cornwall is about much more than the ocean, the sea breezes and the salty tangof air that has travelled three thousand miles across the Atlantic Ocean. If you wanderinto the busy streets of St Ives, you’ll see and feel that straight away. Walk around thequaint streets and alleys and take time to head into the Tate and discover why thelandscapes, seascapes and glittering light of the region have been attracting world-renowned artists for over a century.

Clamber up the hill above Porthmeor Beach where you’ll find a spectacularly-sitedgraveyard which enjoys views across the town and out over the ocean. Look out forthe gravestone of Alfred Wallis, a retired mariner whose untutored paintings of localtown and seascapes had a profound influence on the work of Ben Nicholson andChristopher Wood.

Moving around to the south coast, discover Porthcurno, a tiny coastal village tuckedbetween granite sea cliffs on the southern tip of the Penwith peninsula. For a century,it was the world’s most important telecommunications centre, on account of the tangleof telegraph cables that, from 1870 onwards, dived beneath the turquoise waves offthe golden beach enabling global communications to flourish. It was only in 1993 thatthe Cable & Wireless Company closed its training school in the village. Whilethousand-mile-long cables still run through the valley to modern cable stations nearby,some of the remaining buildings now house an absorbing museum that tells the storyof the village’s unusual past and the history of communications.

South-east of Porthcurno, across the wide blue sweep of Mount’s Bay, is the LizardPeninsula (a curious name derived from the Cornish lys-ardh, meaning ‘high point’).It, too, has historic links with communication technology, for the cliffs close to thevillage of Mullion – which boasts a 15th-century church with a special door for dogs –saw the first-ever transatlantic radio transmission, by Marconi in 1901. This flat,treeless landscape is well worth exploring for tiny, picturesque smuggler’s haunts

Alf Alderson takes us on a tour

of this beguiling area, with

photographer Paul Winch-Furness

in tow, and discovers fascinating

museums and enchanting coves.

...what shall we do this weekend?4

beautiful britain

...what shall we do this weekend?6

such as Helford and Coverack – the name of the latter actually means ‘Hideaway’ – and for the swimming to be had in the clear green waters of lovely coves such as Kennack Sands and Kynance Cove, which is hemmed in by dramatic sea cliffs, stacks andarches. Or, perhaps on more windswept days, take a walk along the coast path to theDevil’s Frying Pan, where a natural arch in the cliffs stands guard over a huge hole formedafter the collapse of a cave roof. It receives a spectacular battering from the sea on stormy days.

Possibly even more spectacular than these natural features, however, is St Michael’sMount, the focal point of Mount’s Bay. This romantic medieval edifice sits above the sea

on a small islet, which is cut off from the mainland at high tide. You can easily see itstowers, turrets and battlements from nearby Penzance but take the time to cross over tothe island and you’ll discover a former ecclesiastical building which has 12th-centuryorigins and a design based on the Benedictine abbey of Mont St Michel in Brittany. Theconnection is apt, for Cornwall and Brittany share a similar language and heritage.

However, Cornwall’s glorious coastal scenery didn’t always present the bucolic image yousee today. The north coast in particular was once the centre of the world’s tin miningindustry and, although Cornish tin is no longer mined, if you travel along the B3306 abovethe swell-washed granite cliffs between St Just and St Ives you’ll be at the heart of thatold, hard industry.

Close to the village of Zennor, which was described by D.H.Lawrence as ‘lovelier even thanthe Mediterranean’ (he lived here whilst writing ‘Women in Love’) lies Geevor Tin Mine. The mine closed in 1990 but now houses the largest preserved tin mining site in Europe andyou can take an underground tour. Also along the same stretch of coast is the Levant Mine,once famed for its undersea deposits of tin and copper, which were mined more than a mileout beneath the Atlantic. The impressive 150-year-old beam engine which was the focal pointof the mine is still in operation.

Far more in keeping with the traditional image of Cornwall, however, is the delightfully namedharbour village of Mousehole (pronounced ‘Mouzle’), on the coast just south of Penzance.Tight, tangled lanes lead away from a harbour where brightly painted fishing boats bob onwhat remnants of swell can squeeze their way in here. Pop into the Ship Inn, as traditional aCornish watering hole as you could want, and if you’re after yet more Cornish heritage check

Penberth

9www.visit-westcornwall.com

beautiful britain

out the 230-year-old gravestone of Dolly Pentreath at nearby Paul churchyard – she isreputed to have been the last native tongue Cornish speaker. Thankfully the county’sdelightful and rather idiosyncratic language is enjoying something of a revival, and you’llsee it from time to time in both place names and house names, whilst there are increasingnumbers of people who now speak Cornish to some degree.

For me, however, the quintessential Cornish experience is to drive, or ride the bus, alongthe A30 to the very end of England or turn right at Sennen Cove, and walk, swim or surf atthe magnificent white sand beach that stretches north of here for a mile or so. The water isan almost iridescent turquoise, and you shouldn’t be surprised to see seals or dolphins outin the bay. Some of the best surfing waves in Britain roll in from the far reaches of theAtlantic; and even on the busiest of summer days it’s easy to drift into a world of your ownas you soak up the sun on the beach or in the dunes that rise steeply behind it.

You can stretch your legs still further with a walk to the end of England – Land’s End.Breakers crash at their base and the islet-speckled waters of the eastern end of theAtlantic lie arrayed in front of you.

These shores are often blasted by some of the most violent weather in Europe, so it’s littlewonder that lighthouses dominate the seascape, with Longships Lighthouse just offshoreand the isolated Wolf Rock Lighthouse some nine miles to the southwest. They warnmariners of a rash of swell-battered islets and outcrops with such mysterious and romanticnames as Dr Syntax Head, the Armed Knight and the Irish Lady.

Let your gaze continue further and, weather and wind permitting, the Isles of Scilly may beseen on the horizon, 25 miles distant. They invite you to explore further west, but that’s foranother day – the wild, atmospheric and historic peninsula that lies behind you holds morethan enough to discover for now.

Alf Alderson - Beautiful Britain summer 2006

7 ways to show your love for West Cornwall

Wherever we go and whatever we do, we have some impact and leave someimpression on the environment. By making positive choices during your visit, you canhelp to look after this special area ensuring that it retains its character for your next visit.

Recycle your rubbishIn West Cornwall we take our recycling very seriously. In order to keep it a super holiday destinationfree from litter and environmental damage, please recycle the following items during your stay: Glass bottles and jars Newspapers and magazines Brochures CardboardMetal drinks and food cans Plastic bottles Textiles

Reduce traffic: walk, cycle or use public transport Walking and cycling are great ways to see the area without adding to traffic. Use public transport ifyou need to travel to your start point, but try exploring near to where you are staying - there aresome fantastic places to see right on your doorstep!.

Be a safe driverWest Cornwall is a working environment. Throughout the year, farmers are busy caring for theircrops and livestock so be careful on the roads as you may meet some very large farm vehicles onour country lanes, or even cows and sheep being herded by the farmer with his dogs.

Stay Local, Eat Local, Buy Local, See LocalSupport local producers and services - this way your visit has a real benefit to the communities ofCornwall. And you get to see and taste the real quality that Cornwall offers. Visit Farmers Markets,farm shops, village stores, pubs and cafes.

Chill out – switch off….Enjoy a fabulous, light touch holiday…..switch off lights and dripping taps; use the voluntary laundrycard scheme where you see it, so that only towels that need washing are laundered; every singleeffort helps protect and enhance our beautiful environment. It takes a moment and it’s all worth it!

Follow the Countryside Code: respect – protect – enjoy.The Countryside Code reminds visitors to protect plants and animals - take litter away - leave gates and property as you find them - keep dogs under close control - consider other people and users when visiting the countryside. A list of dog-friendly beaches can be found atwww.penwith.gov.uk/beaches.

Enjoy a happy, healthy holidayBring prescription medication Carry details of your own doctor & contact details NHS direct contact number is 0845 - 4647 Remember the sun in the southwest is deceptively strong, especially in the summer months. Please ensure you use a suitable sunscreen sun factor 30+ is recommended.

Enjoy your holiday! Thank you!

explore

...what shall we do this weekend?10

all aboard... sit back and enjoy the ride

11www.firstgreatwestern.co.ukwww.firstgroup.com

West Cornwall’s bus network gives you the chance totravel to most destinations in the area. The view from abus window enables you to look over the Cornishhedgerows and take in the distinctive landscapes beyond:sweeping bays, ancient field systems, abandoned enginehouses, rugged hillsides and lush woodland valleys.

Services are most frequent on the bus routes between main towns. There are also a number of ruralservices which provide a vital year-round link for localresidents, but which also offer a good opportunity for the holiday visitor to explore the quieter, more remoteparts of the peninsula.

And when you purchase your ticket, you know that you are helping to support this valuable service for thelocal community.

Travelling by bus is often a pleasure in its own right. Why not try one of the following bus routes:

Service 201A stunning ride along the north coast of the peninsula,taking in open moorland, quiet hamlets, intriguing rockformations and mining relics. Open-top double-deckersare often used on this service.

Service 2A local stopping service between Penzance, Helston andFalmouth, taking in the villages and coastal resorts of thegentle south coast. A handy service for coast path walkersand those seeking access to the beaches along thisstretch of coast.

Service 340Starting from Penzance, small buses weave their waythrough the countryside and villages between Mounts Bayand St Ives Bay, travelling through Hayle and up as far asthe National Trust property at Godrevy Point.

For comprehensive, up-to-date

information about public transport, call

Traveline on 0871 200 22 33 (calls cost

10p per minute from a landline).

Bus Fares

First Devon & Cornwall offers an

all-day travel ticket on their Cornish

services, priced at £5.50 for adults.

Standard return fares are more

expensive at peak times (before 8.45am

Monday-Friday) on First’s services.

Sunset offers off-peak single fares.

Cornish residents over 60 years of age

or those with most disabilities are entitled

to free travel if they possess a

concessionary fares card.

You can join the branch line from the station at St Erth or the ‘Park and Ride’ at Lelant Saltings. A trip by train allows you to avoid St Ives’ traffic queues and parking problems. Instead you will enjoysome of the most dramatic coastal views in West Cornwall.

This stunning route takes in the nature reserve at St Erth, the goldensand of Hayle Towans, Carbis Bay and St Ives, past panoramic sceneryfrom sweeping sand and craggy cliffs to the colourful harbour of St Ives.

Discover more about the line, beaches and area with suggested walksin the ‘St Ives Bay Line Guide’, available at staffed stations andinformation centres or by calling 01752 233094.

First Great Western runs trains half hourly Mon-Sat on the line, feweron Sundays. Pick up a timetable at staffed railway stations, TICs, orNational Rail Enquiries 08457 484950 or www.nationalrail.co.ukMainline trains run from St Erth to Penzance.

The St Ives Bay Line Ranger ticket gives you the freedom to travel thebranch line as much as you like, and from 20 May 2007 the ticket willextend travel to Penzance and Hayle. On the shortest journeys you canbuy a ‘one stop hop’. Discounts for Railcard holders.

Standard Day Returns (valid at any time) and Cheap Day Returns (validMon-Fri after 09.30am, anytime at weekends) are both available forlonger journeys.

GroupSave tickets allow 3 or 4 people to travel for the price of 2 andare valid at the same time as Cheap Day Returns.

RideCornwall- this new ticket allows the holder one day’s unlimitedtravel on all rail and most bus services within Cornwall and betweenCornwall and Plymouth (including the Tamar Valley Line), after 09 00Mon-Fri and at any time weekends and Bank Holidays.

RideCornwall is valid on the following operators’ services; First GreatWestern, Virgin Trains, First Devon&Cornwall, Western Greyhound and Truronian.

For latest information ontrain times call TrainTracker

on 0871 200 49 50 or text48 49 50.

Discover more about theline, beaches and area with

suggested walks in the St Ives Bay Line Guide or

explore the delights ofsome fine Cornish pubs by

train with the St Ives Bay Line Rail Ale Trail.

Both are available at staffed stations and

information centres or bycalling 01752 233094.

Other useful Websites:www.carfreedaysout.com

www.railaletrail.comwww.traveline.org.uk

The best way to arrive in St Ives is by train.

A public transport bookletsummarising main timetables is

available to accompany this guide -ask for a copy at Tourist Information

Centres, where you will also findstocks of the main All Cornwall

Public Transport Guide.

Timetables and maps are available to download from

www.cornwall.gov.uk/buses.

PorthlevenPorthleven with its narrow streetsclimbing the hillsides and its distinctiveharbour was once a centre for boatbuilding. Nowadays it successfullycombines the activities of a workingfishing port with those of a popularholiday resort. There is a happy mix ofgift shops, galleries, restaurants, pubsand cafes – trading alongsidefishmongers, boat builders andchandlers. There is also a shelteredbeach, popular with families.

Marazion Marazion, the oldest town in England, lies atthe sheltered heart of the Mount's Bay coastfacing the spectacular St Michael's Mount. Ashort distance inland is the quiet village ofGoldsithney. Only a mile or so to the east liesthe village of Perranuthnoe, with its fine sandybeach and its open aspect. Further east againis the fine headland of Cudden Point. Much ofthe area lies within Cornwall's Area ofOutstanding Natural Beauty.

Mousehole & PaulThe villages of Mousehole and Paulare distinct and independent, yet arestrongly linked by shared customsand history. Mousehole is one ofCornwall's finest traditional fishingports and retains its great characterdespite fishing's decline. Paul'sgranite buildings and its splendidChurch of St Pol de Leon make it oneof the most attractive villages on theLand's End Peninsula.

Mousehole Porthleven Mousehole harbourMarazionTowards St Michael’s Mount

south coast

...what shall we do this weekend?12 13

an introduction to our towns & villages

Town TrailsThese are heritagewalks through Penzance,the fishing villages of Newlyn and Mousehole.

Bronze waymarkers, designed and made bylocal sculptor and Newlyn man Tom Leaper, are sited on various buildings to guide the walk.Each one represents an element of Newlyn'sstory.

They are available from various outlets in thearea including Tourist Information Centres.

PenzanceStanding on the shores of Mount's Bay,Penzance has a wealth of good shops,cafes, pubs and restaurants. Market JewStreet, a busy shopping street, connectswith the harbour area through the WharfsideShopping Centre. Explore pedestrianisedCausewayhead and Chapel Street. At themid-point of the shoreline is the JubileePool, a fine example of the art deco style ofthe 1930s. A short distance beyond is theharbour whose inner dock shelters fishing

boats, visiting yachts and the occasional tall-masted sailing ship against the granitequays. Subtropical Morrab Gardens flourishin Penzance's mild climate. On the outskirtsof the town are Trereife, Trewidden andTrengwainton Gardens (NT).

Each June the Golowan Festival celebratesthe Celtic traditions of West Cornwall inspectacular style, visit our website for details.

The name Penzance comes from twoCornish words, pen and sans, meaning 'holy headland'.

The holy headland in question is just oppositethe Jubilee Pool in St Anthony's Gardens,where the tiny chapel of St Anthony, built inthe 6th century, once stood.

The unusual name for Penzance's mainshopping street, Market Jew Street, comesfrom the Cornish marghas yow, which means'Thursday Market' and has no connection withJudaism.The art deco Jubilee Pool wascompleted in 1935 and holds more than onemillion gallons of seawater.

PenzancePenzance Penzance skyline

Jubilee Pool

Sir Humphry Davy

south coast

...what shall we do this weekend?14 15www.visit-westcornwall.com

The Market House is the large domedbuilding at the top of Market Jew Street. Infront is a statue of Penzance's famous son,Humphry Davy. Born in Market Jew Street in1778 and famous for inventing the miner'ssafety lamp, although his greatestachievement was his discovery of calcium,sodium, magnesium, potassium and nitrousoxide (laughing gas). Davy was knighted in1812, became President of the RoyalInstitution in 1819, and died in Geneva inMay 1829.

the prom

Just round the corner from the Dolphin isBattery Rocks, the place where a small fort andgun battery was built in 1740. Next to this is theJubilee Pool; the starting point for thepromenade, this fabulous art deco pool wascompleted in 1935, holds more than one milliongallons of seawater, and was named incelebration of King George V's Silver Jubilee.

Today, the artistic flags, suntrap terraces, highwalkways with views over Mount's Bay and the

The inhabitants of Penzance dealt withfriendly foreign traders looking for tin, but itwas another matter when invaders arrived.Vikings and Saxons were soon dispatchedand Penzance prospered as a seaport until1595 when it was pillaged by the Spanishalong with Newlyn and Mousehole. Thiswasn't the first time that the area had sufferedfrom invading armies - nearby Marazion hadbeen burnt by the French some 80 yearsearlier - and it wasn't the last time either -Turkish pirates infested the coast in 1634 and1760.

On the seafront, near to the Scillonian IIIdock, the Barbican, is the Dolphin Inn, theoccasional battle headquarters of Sir JohnHawkins, the Elizabethan commander duringSpanish hostilities. It is hardly surprising thatGilbert and Sullivan chose Penzance as thebase for their opera!

Penzance Promenade - stunning bay views and classic strolling on the level. Lesley Double - Cornwall Life

...what shall we do this weekend?16

palms, promenading, pirates surround yourself

poolside café, make the JubileePool a major Penzanceattraction. Since it is an outsidepool, it is open only fromWhitsun to September, but thecafé stays open until the end ofOctober, weather permitting.

Penlee Park has tennis courts, a children's playground and a summer-only outdoor theatre.

Looking at Penzance from adistance, two buildings standout above the rest: the ParishChurch and the Market House.

Acorn Theatre is situated alongParade Street, a very narrowroad just off Chapel Street. It attracts big names as well aslocal companies andinternational performers.

Taking an ‘old fashioned’promenade is still a wonderfulway to meet friends and try newplaces and activities. There area variety of eating and drinkingplaces and entertainmentoccasionally through thesummer. With art deco at oneend and fishing boats at theother this easily accessiblejourney is just about a mile.

17www.visit-westcornwall.com

The 17thC Admiral

Benbow Inn, decorated

with cannon and

figureheads has a

smuggler on the roof.

The historic Union

Hotel nearby is also

full of character.

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6 Tennis Courts7 Penlee House8 Morrab Gardens9 Jubilee Pool10 Admiral Benbow & Union Hotel11 The Exchange (opens July)12 Penzance Harbour13 Market Jew Street

14 Wharfside Shopping Centre15 Main Car Park16 Rail and Bus Stations

1 Newlyn Fish Market2 Newlyn Art Gallery (opens July)3 Boating Lake4 Promenade5 Rugby Club

St Buryan & LamornaThe parish of St Buryan offers the visitorthe very best of West Cornwall's coastand countryside at the beautiful LamornaCove and amidst the green fields andwooded valleys that surround the villageof St Buryan itself. The area is famous forits ancient monuments, and two of thefinest prehistoric stone circles in thecountry lie within its boundaries. Thereare shops, a sub post office and a popularpub in St Buryan village. Lamorna Covehas the famous Wink Inn, cafe and shopat the harbour car park.

Porthcurno On one of Cornwall's most beautifulcoasts within an area of spectaculargranite cliffs and beaches. Yet thesurrounding countryside is equally lovelywhile the area is well served by excellentvillage shops, pubs and other services.Much of the coast is owned by theNational Trust. The Porthcurno valley hashad close links with oceaniccommunications since the last century.Attractions in the area include thePorthcurno Telegraph Museum and theMinack Theatre.

Land’s End Whether walking the Coastal Path to themost westerly point in Britain or taking abus ride to the western end of the A30 theold adage is true - all points lead tolegendary Land’s End. Be awestruck bythe breathtaking natural beauty of thearea and sheer power of the surgingAtlantic against the granite cliffs.www.landsendarea.co.uk

SennenSennen village lies just one mile northeast of Land's End, sheltered by the mightyheadland of Pedn-men-du. Sennen Cove is a popular family and surfing beach withall the facilities for a perfect day out.

Legend has it that Sennen was the site of a great battle between King Arthur andseven Cornish kings against Danish invaders. The Cornish won and celebrated on astone known as Table Men near Sennen church. The legend claims that the Kingswould again meet when the destruction of the world is imminent!

Cape Cornwall'Cape' - a promontory that stands at the meeting of oceans. Ancient navigators believed that Cape Cornwall was 'Land's End' until accurate hydrography confirmed otherwise by a few hundred yards.

The Cape was bought for the nation by H J Heinz Ltd in 1987 and presented to the National Trust to mark the company's centenary. The mine stack that crowns the Cape was part of Cape Cornwall Mine.

Priest's Cove, just below the Cape, has a pleasant boulder beach at low tide and small boats still work from the cove.

GeevorThe largest historical mining site in the UK with the Crowns engine housesdramatically perched on the coast at nearby Botallack. The Count House, Botallack (NT) contains information about the Crowns and other industrial heritagesites in the area including its calciners, the finest surviving arsenic refining works in Britain. Geevor Tin Mine has a wonderful tea room with panoramic coastal viewsand the nearby Pendeen Manor, a listed 17th century manor with fogou, also provides refreshments.

far west

...what shall we do this weekend?18 19www.visit-westcornwall.com

Minack Theatre

Crown Mines, Botallack

Levant Mine

Porthcurno

St Just-in-PenwithBustling former mining centre andCornwall's most westerly town with a fineMethodist chapel and 15th century parishchurch. The grassed Plen-an-Gwary(place of the play), at the heart of thetown, is one of only two surviving outdoormedieval amphitheatres in Cornwall,allegedly the oldest working theatre inBritain. Today this scheduled monumentis in regular use and the site ofspectacular events like performances ofthe Ordinalia miracle plays and theannual July Lafrowda festival. Within easywalking distance of the bus station aretwo spacious squares with a largenumber of inns, independent art galleriesand studios, and other useful amenitiesincluding the library/tourist informationcentre.

PendeenA granite mining village and neighbouringsettlements with lighthouse and traditionalinns near Cornwall’s most important andspectacular section of heritage miningcoast. Pendeen village (East of St Just)and surrounding ancient graniteagricultural settlements developed withthe area’s 19th century tin and coppermines. Since 1900 Pendeen Lighthouse -accessed from a lane opposite the villagebus stop - has been situated on one of themost dangerous and dramatic stretchesof Britain’s coastline (filmed for the"Poldark" TV series). From here there arecoastal walks east to Portheras beachand west past many reminders of themining industry that dominated this area -Levant mine and beam engine, a workingsteam-powered beam engine and historicsite owned by the National Trust.

far west

...what shall we do this weekend?20 21www.visit-westcornwall.com

Men-an-Tol(see map for location)

Lanyon Quoit(see map for location)

Pendeen Light

Trying tin streaming

north coast

ZennorSteeped in myth and legend andnestling on the scenic coast roadonly 4 miles west of St Ives,surrounded by dramatic coastalscenery and ancient fields on oneside and high, gaunt moorland onthe other. Legend has it that themermaid of Zennor (depicted on abench-end in the village church)was so entranced by the singingof a local chorister that she luredhim into the sea, never to return.D H Lawrence wrote 'Women inLove' here in the village hedescribed as ‘the best place Ihave ever been’.

Hayle and PhillackThe Town of Hayle was apowerhouse of Cornishindustry during the 18th & 19thcenturies and continued assuch well into the 20th century.Today, Hayle is rich withindustrial archaeology, aheritage enhanced by itsposition on the shores of thebeautiful St Ives Bay and bythe 3 miles of glorious goldenbeaches that lie close by.Adjoining Hayle, but with itsown delightfully rural characteris the village of Phillack.

...what shall we do this weekend?22 23

www.visit-westcornwall.com

Hayle Quay

Sunset at GodrevyWayside Museum, Zennor

The Towans - the second largestdune system in Cornwall - have adynamic history. One ofthe oldest parish churches in thecounty, St Gothian’s Chapel, hasbeen buried 3 times under theshifting sands. As with much ofCornwall, the dunes are dottedwith deep depressions where mineshafts were dug in search of metalores. All that remains of the oncethriving National ExplosivesCompany on Upton Towans is afascinating mosaic of bunkers andtramways; one looming red brickchimney; and the localname of Dynamite Towans.Pick up a ‘Sands of Time’ leaflet.

St IvesSt Ives has a Mediterranean allure yet the town retains itsdistinctive Cornish character especially at its harbourside.Tangles of cobbled lanes with intriguing names like MountZion, Teetotal Street and Salubrious Place, weave pasthoney-granite cottages, galleries, pubs and restaurants.In the 19th century painters came for the clear, accuratelight and luminous colours and the Tate St Ives reflectsthe town's international status in the world of art.

Today, as for centuries before, life centres around theharbour where fishing boats still moor alongside granitepiers, their catch being sent around the world and earningan enviable reputation for its quality and variety in someof the finest restaurants. The town’s colourful heritage isdistilled in great artistic traditions dating back to the 19thcentury when painters revelled in the clear, accurate lightand luminous colours.

north coast

St IvesTake a leisurely walk along some of the coastal footpath, perhaps to Lelant and soakup the sounds and images of the bay. Take the opportunity to return by branch linetrain along what has been described as one of the most spectacular railway journeysin Britain as the track hugs the edge of the cliff in a spectacular feat of Victorianengineering. Enjoy the view across to Godrevy Lighthouse, immortalised by thenovelist Virginia Woolf, or take a short boat trip to watch seals basking on the rocksin the sunshine.

The St Ives September Festival brings a feast of music, literature, theatre and art.Breton markets line the harbour in the summer and the Square Sail Fleet are oftenpresent. Throughout the season enjoy floral displays that have won more Nationaland Regional wins and placings in Britain in Bloom than anywhere else in the UK.

A marvellously scenic railway branch line follows the coast here on its way betweenSt Erth and St Ives, with links at St Erth to the Penzance main line.

As night falls at the end of anotherperfect day, St Ives comes alive - withbars restaurants and cafés to suitevery pocket and every taste in atruly cosmopolitan atmosphere.

And finally as the disappearing sunpaints the sea and sky in gloriouspink, it is time to plan what to dotomorrow. One thing though is forcertain, whether it is time to relax orinspire, or for the mystery andromance, St Ives has nothing but thefinest holiday ingredients

...what shall we do this weekend?24 25www.visit-westcornwall.com

St Ives from the bus station St Ives Plenty of boat trips operate from the harbour

Magnificent PorthmeorBeach in its famouslocation below the TateGallery, has powerful surf,

yet is ideal for non-surfers of all ages. The beach has a Blue Flag along withPorthminster Beach.

St Ives and Carbis Bay have triumphed in theEuropean 'ENTENTE FLORALE' contestagainst 13 other European small towns andhave gained the GOLD Award.This is the 'European Cup' of town floral beautyand these communities have won it for Britain.

gardens

The other two gardens are open until the end ofOctober and could not be more different fromeach other.

Trengwainton is a sheltered garden with exotictrees and shrubs, a winding stream, and unusualwalled gardens said to be built to the dimensionsof Noah's Ark. Trengwainton is open Sunday toThursday from 10am-5pm.

The beautiful Queen Anne house at Trereife is theperfect place for a family day out. Guided tours ofthe house (by owner Tim Le Grice) the parterres,terraces and a tropical house with free-flyingbutterflies, tea room, pottery and play area.Trereife is open every day from 11am-4pm.

Because of its temperate climate, WestCornwall is blessed with several lovelygardens containing sub-tropical plants suchas palms, magnolias, bamboos and aloes.Thanks to Samuel Pidwell, who in 1841bought a three-acre plot sloping down to thesea, Morrab Gardens now contain anastonishing collection of plants such as treeferns and cordylines, as well as an elegantbandstand, a fountain and two ornamentalponds, a memorial to the Penzance men whodied during the Boer War, and Morrab House,an independent subscription library.

Penlee Park has tennis courts and a children'splayground, also a pond and large, wellestablished trees and bushes, and a summer-only outdoor theatre.

On the outskirts of Penzance are three morebeautiful gardens...

Trewidden has a combination of giant fernsgrowing amongst ancient tin workings, aformal walled garden. It is open from mid-February to the end of September.

Trereife

Barbara Hepworthsculpture garden

Trengwainton

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tropical scents, old favourites surround yourself Lesley Double - Cornwall Life

Trewidden 01736 363021Trereife 01736 362750Trengwainton 01736 362297St Michael’s Mount 01736 710507Paradise Park 01736 751020Trevarno Estate 01326 574274Godolphin House 01736 763194

From Spring onwards the dramatic coastline ofWest Cornwall is covered with swathes of headyscented semi-wild narcissi and golden daffodils,fluffy pink windswept thrift, powder-blue quill,and snowy white campion. By early June, inwoods and on cliff slopes, the ground iscarpeted with bluebells, while roadside banksbloom with a riot of sweet, vivid wild flowers.

St Michael's Mount, home of the St AubynFamily, rises gracefully to the church and castleat its summit. With buildings dating from the12th century and a unique maritime garden

created in terraces just above the sea, thisextraordinary place can be reached across thecauseway at low tide or by a short boat trip atother times.

At the heart of St Ives are the immaculateTrewyn Gardens, while the town's lanes andcourtyards are awash with the hanging basketsand flower tubs that make St Ives a regularwinner of the Britain in Bloom awards and GoldAward winner of Entente Florale 2005.

Please check opening times before setting off.

Bunkers Hill in St Ives

27www.visit-westcornwall.com

Memorial gardens, St Ives

beaches

Beaches at their best!

The beaches of West Cornwall are amongst the most beautiful in Europe and arenoted for their clean and sparkling sea water and their outstanding beach facilities.West Cornwall offers a variety of quality beaches and coves from busy family beachesto popular watersports venues and, at the other extreme, tucked away quietersuntraps. Along the 50 miles of coastline there are the gorgeous open miles of silkywhite and glowing golden sands of St Ives, Hayle and Sennen as well as the smallercrescents in the coves like Porthcurno and Carbis Bay.

Major beaches such as Porthmeor and Porthminster at St Ives, Sennen beach nearLand's End, and Marazion beach have been regular BLUE FLAG award winners forcleanliness and for top quality facilities. In 2006 Carbis Bay beach was also awardeda BLUE FLAG award.

There are beaches in the area to suit everyone's needs. At all the main beaches youcan laze on silky soft sand and swim in crystal clear seas that match the best that theMediterranean, and even the Caribbean, can offer. For families and very youngchildren, the easily accessible Marazion Beach, Porthminster at St Ives, and CarbisBay Beaches are ideal.

If you are looking for exciting water sports then you can ride the Atlantic swells withsurfboard and bodyboard on Porthmeor at St Ives, Gwithian at Hayle and Sennen,beaches that are recognised world-wide as top surf venues.

For windsurfing, Marazion and Hayle have international reputations and even thenewer action sports, such as kite surfing are "taking off" in a big way in West Cornwall.

The Lifesaving Service is operated by the local authority, Penwith District Council, andis proud to have one of the biggest team of lifeguards in Britain. All the main beacheshave excellent cover during daytime in the summer. It is always recommended thatyou check that the beach you intend to go to has lifeguard cover.

We also have dog friendly beaches in the area and for more information on whichbeaches you can visit with your dog or for further information on events and muchmore please visit www.penwith.gov.uk/beaches or telephone the local TouristInformation Centres.

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the beach

29

www.penwith.gov.uk/beaches

Red and yellowflags mark areas ofwater that are patrolled bylifeguards. Theseare the safestplaces to swim.

Red flag indicatesdanger. Never enter thewater when the redflag is flying.

Black and whitechequered flagsindicate an area ofwater marked foruse by craft. For your own safetydo not swim inthese areas.

An orangewindsock flying at the beachindicates that wind conditions are especiallydangerous. Under nocircumstances take an inflatableinto the sea.

Listen to thelifeguards, watchthe flags and readthe signs.

Professional Lifeguards

May-September

Swimming

Surfing

Toilets

Parking

Shop or cafe nearby

Boat trips or Ferries

Surf rescue equipment

Dogs allowed all year

Dogs allowed

Oct - before easter

Guide Dogs are

excepted

from dog bans

Godrevy

Sandy, good surf, strong currents near lighthouse

Gw

ithianE

nd of Hayle beaches, rocky coves, good surf

The Tow

ansH

ayle, Upton and M

exico Towans, expansive sands

Carbis B

ayLovely for children, very calm

, splendid

Porthm

inster1/2 m

ile of very sheltered, safe, sandy beach

St Ives harbour

Very sheltered sandy harbour in tow

n centre

Porthgw

iddenN

ear to The Island, sm

all, secluded sun trap

Porthm

eorF

requently good surf, Tate Gallery

Cape C

ornwall

Boat &

Priests C

oves fishing coves, limited bathing &

parking

Gw

enverS

pectacular, many steep steps to beach, dolphins visit

Sennen

Long sandy beach, fishing harbour, lifeboat station

Porthgw

arraA

ccess through cave, sandy, slipway

Porthchapel

Sm

all beach, park by church (1/4mile), seals often seen

Porthcurno

White sands below

Minack T

heatre, fabulous

Penberth

Sm

all National Trust fishing cove, scuba diving

Lamorna

Sm

all harbour, boulder clad foreshore, scuba diving

Mousehole

Sm

all beaches in harbour and at Roskilly

Jubilee Pool

Recently restored A

rt Deco sea w

ater pool, classy sobriety

Long Rock

Penzance to Long R

ock - sandy towards M

arazion, windsurfing

Marazion

Sandy, low

tide causeway to the M

ount, pretty village

Perranuthnoe

Safe and sandy, high cliffs, keep clear of sand banks

ancient sites

On the breezy headlands of Logan Rockabove Porthcurno and Gurnards Head nearZennor, defensive banks of earth and stonestill survive across the neck of theheadlands. These great sites were thegathering places of Iron Age communities.They may have been used for defenceagainst hostile invaders, although

West Cornwall has a world franchise onancient sites. Wherever you go in this farwestern land you find Stone Age burialchambers, Bronze Age stone circles andlonely granite pillars etched against the sky.Along the rugged coastline lie the dramaticremains of ancient enclosures, the cliffcastles of the Iron Age.

The granite of West Cornwall ensures thesurvival of many sites. Rub shoulders withthe vast uprights of Late Stone Age burialchambers at Lanyon Quoit near Madronand Chun Quoit near Morvah. Dream ofBronze Age ritual at the mysterious holedstone of Men-an-tol, at the magical stonecircles of the Merry Maidens aboveLamorna and the atmospheric Boscawen-un near St Buryan. Surround yourself inIron Age villages at Chysauster and CarnEuny, where ghosts still haunt the air.

Surround yourself in ancient history

Bosriggen Moor looking towards Porthmeor

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young peoples, ancient times surround yourself

archaeologists believe that they may havebeen famous gathering places where peoplecame to trade goods and to celebrate thevivid ceremonies that illuminated their lives.Today, we can share some of that heritagein the magical world of West Cornwall.

Please treatthese sites withrespect as theymay still be usedfor traditionalceremonies.

Most of these sites have atleast off-road parking for a fewcars, and many of them areaccessible on bus routes.

Merry Maidens area Mên-an-Tol & Mên ScryfaLanyon QuoitBoscawen-ûn Stone CircleTregeseal Stone CircleCarn Euny Courtyard Housesettlement & fogouChapel Carn BreaSancreed Holy WellMadron Holy wellChûn Quoit and CastleChysausterZennor Quoit

www.cornishancientsites.comhas downloadable leaflets andmaps showing all the principalancient sites in West Penwith.

See page 2 for locations andpage 58 for bus connections.

31www.visit-westcornwall.com

The ‘Merry Maidens’ were turned to stone for dancing on the sabbath, togetherwith the ‘Pipers’ nearby across the road.