vinyl cladding installation...

INSTALLATION PROCEDURES AND GENERAL PRACTICE TIPSIt is necessary to read this information completely before commencing the task.

If you are unsure about any material contained herein, do not hesitate to call Heritage Cladding on 0800 500 780 for more detailed information.

NEW ZEALAND DISTRIBUTOR:HERITAGE CLADDING

15 FOLLIS STREETTE AROHA

YEAR OF ISSUE: 2018

VINYL CLADDING INSTALLATION MANUAL

© VPI Building Products 2018

EXCE

ED

S AUSTRALIAN STANDARD

S • EX

CEEDS AUSTRALIAN STANDAR

DS

•

50 YEAR WARRANTY

VERSION 1.8

2 Heritage Vinyl Cladding Installation Guide

HERITAGE CLADDING

15 Follis street Te Aroha

Phone: 0800 500 780 Email: [email protected]

www.heritageclading.co.nz

New Zealand: Australia (Overseas Manufacturer):

VPI BUILDING PRODUCTS

PO Box 485 (25 Whitton Street)

Katoomba NSW 2780

Telephone: +61 2 4782 0600

Fax: +61 2 4782 0699

Email: [email protected]

www.vpi.com.au

ABN 26 137 149 854

ACN 141 535 597

CONTACT DETAILS

3Heritage Vinyl Cladding Installation Guide

TABLE OF CONTENTS VPI VINYL CLADDING PAGE 4

PERSEPECTIVE DRAWING ,TABLE OF COMPONENTS PAGE 5

PREPARATION OF SUB-SURFACE

INSTALLING VINYL CLADDING OVER MASONRY WALLS PAGE 6

BASIC RULES TO FOLLOW PAGE 7

FASTENING PAGE 8

CAULKING & ACCESSORIES PAGE 9 - 10

GENERAL REQUIREMENTS PRIOR TO INSTALLATION PAGE 11

STORAGE AND HANDLING OF VPI VINYL CLADDING

BEFORE COMMENCING THE TASK - IMPORTANT

ALLOWANCE FOR EXPANSION AND CONTRACTION PAGE 12

INSTALLATION OF BOARDS PAGE 13

PATIOS, ENTRANCES OR OTHER VARIATIONS OF LEVEL,

OUTSIDE CORNER POSTS PAGE 14

INTERNAL CORNER POSTS, “ J “ CHANNEL PAGE 15 - 16

UNDERSILL (U/S) OR FINISHING TRIM

LAYOUT OF BOARDS - SIDING PANELS PAGE 17

FINISHING, GENERAL TIPS PAGE 18

ARMOUR BOARD INSTALLATION ,INSTALLING A JOINER PAGE 19

WINDOWS AND DOORS – (CHAMFER & I10 BOARD) PAGE 20

WINDOWS AND DOORS (ARMOUR BOARD) PAGE 21

TOP OF WALL FINISH, FINISHING GABLES PAGE 22

INSTALLING SOFFITS PAGE 23 - 24

CONSTRUCTION CHECKLIST, REGULAR MAINTENANCE,

WARRANTY OFFER, WARRANTY CLAIM PAGE 25

CALCULATION EXAMPLES PAGE 26

DETAILED DRAWINGS PAGE 27 - 33

APPLICATION CHECKLIST PAGE 34

INSPECTORS CHECKLIST, INSTALLERS SHOULD BE,

APPRAISAL INFORMATION PAGE 35


VPI VINYL CLADDING

Designed and manufactured in Australia, our products suit both traditional and contemporary

house exteriors. Our cladding has been subjected to the rigorous physical test requirements and

has passed with ease. VPI‘s boards have been developed to suit both Australia and

New Zealand's extreme conditions.

Our products are formulated with careful attention to the UV conditions of the harsh Australian

climate. The extrusion processes we have developed ensure that the colour and UV resistance

are consistent all the way through each product – not just limited to the surface. These features,

presented with clean glossy lines and embossed woodgrain surfaces, bring you products that

deliver years of effective and stylish good looks with minimal upkeep.

All our products come with a complete suite of trims to complement the finished walls. Whether

used for enhancing new work or upgrading existing homes, the results are long-lasting and

eye-catching. We also provide a factory warranty on all products, copy available on request.

This warranty gives full (not pro rata) protection for fifty years. Our cladding is lightweight and

most installations take just a few days with minimum disruption. Maintenance is not demanding

– a quick wash down from time to time will keep the appearance fresh and attractive. A mild

detergent can be used – refer to our care guide for complete information.

GLOSS TIMBER LOOK

DISTINCTIVE PROFILES

AUSTRALIAN MADE

UV RESISTANT

NO PAINT NEEDED

100% COLOUR DEPTH

FLAME RESISTANT

ROT AND TERMITE PROOF

EASY MAINTENANCE

50 YEAR WARRANTY

a. Clause B1 – Structure

b. Clause B2 – Durability

c. Clause E2 – Weathertightness

d. Clause H1 – Energy (Thermal)

Efficiency

Building code clauses that apply:


J Trim

Insulation

Wall Frame

Tape

Tape Tape

Wall Wrap

Starter Strip

Wall Wrap

J Trim J Trim

Corner Post (OCP 20)

J Trim

V5

D5 I15

ARMOUR BOARD

J15

J20

J20

OCP20

OCP20

OCP20

Starter Flat

ICP20

Starter Armour

Starter Flat

Joiner & Under-sill

Under-sill

2 Part J

2 Part J

TABLE OF COMPONENTS - to suit board profiles listed


Preparation of Sub-Surface (Re-clads and Over-clad only)

Before installing the VPI Vinyl Cladding first remove all shutters, down pipes, cover moulds and

other external obstructions. Nail down all loose boards and flashings. This prevents any pressure

being placed on the cladding from behind once installed.

Remove and replace any damaged studs. Uneven walls should be packed with battening where

necessary to produce an even surface. This will result in an even, regular finish once cladding is

installed.

Installing VPI Vinyl Cladding over Masonry Walls

Using masonry nails, screws or plugs, install 75 wide x 25 deep battens over the entire area to

be clad at 450 mm centers. Battens should also be used around all wall perimeters including

windows, doors, verandas etc. This allows for rigid fixing of trims.

450mm


Basic Rules to follow

These basic rules will ensure the proper installation of solid vinyl products.

1. Fix the cladding at 450mm centres maximum. If your studs are at centres greater than 450mm, VPI recommends the use of ply sheet fixed to the studs. Cladding is then fixed to the ply.

2. Unless indicated otherwise in these instructions, always place the nails in the centre of the nailing slot. Never fasten directly through the VPI Vinyl Cladding. Never fasten too tightly.

3. All higher “J’s” overlap lower “J’s”. All VPI Vinyl Cladding accessories should be overlapped except where noted otherwise.

4. Where boards fit into trims, a 5 millimeter clearance should be left at each end of the board for the normal expansion and contraction. If installation is carried out in high temperatures consideration should be mostly given for contraction. See the section on Allowance for “Expansion and Contraction” for more detail.

5. Ensure all panels are fully interlocked when fastening. See below for more fastening tips:

NAILS: The size of the nail head is very important, as a “fitted” board can be inadvertently lifted off its nail when installing the board, if a nail with too small a head is used. Minimum head diameter 8mm, minimum hardwood frame penetration is 25mm, minimum softwood frame penetration is 35mm, hence fiber cement (fibro) over hardwood house would need a 30 x 2.8mm gal clout. And a fibro over softwood needs a 40mm gal clout. A weatherboard over hardwood would require a 45-50mm gal clout min. NB: Thicker weatherboards need longer fastners.

SCREWS: The size of the screw head is very important, as a “fitted” board can be inadvertently lifted off its screw when installing the board, if a screw with too small a head is used. Minimum head diameter 8mm, minimum hardwood frame penetration is 25mm, minimum softwood frame penetration is 35mm, hence fiber cement (fibro) over hardwood house would need a 30mm x 12Guage Class 4 exterior quality galvanised button head screw. And a fibro over softwood needs a 40mm x 12Guage Class 4 exterior quality galvanised button head screw. For use on Steel Framing, a 30mm x 12 Guage Class 4 exterior quality galvanized button head screw, or similar screw with minimum head dia. of 8mm, should be used A weatherboard over hardwood would require a 45-50mm x 12Guage Class 4 exterior quality galvanised button head screw. NB: Thicker weatherboards need longer screws.


Nailing / Fastening

Nails should have a corrosion resistant coating with a flat head of 10 millimeters diameter with a shank thickness of no more than 2 millimeters. They must be long enough to penetrate 25 millimeters into a hardwood frame or 35 millimeters into a softwood frame. On VPI Vinyl Cladding and accessories, fit nails back 150 millimeters from the ends when overlapping. IMPORTANT: Cladding

must not be nailed tightly to wall; this will restrict expansion as will nailing at the ends of the slots.

REMINDER: DO NOT NAIL AT THE ENDS OF THE SLOTS.

NO YES

STUD FINDING: On internal corners of house walls, some eave applications, and around doors, windows, meter boxes etc, you will be unable to get fixing onto studs. In these instances satisfactory fixing can be obtained by using the drywall screw with a button or mush head. Be careful not to tighten the screw so that is restricts expansion.

NO SLOTS: Where you are unable to match the trim-nailing slot with a stud, you should use a slot-punching tool to facilitate such. Do not fasten directly through trim.

HOLES: When cutting holes to accommodate plumbing that remains on the wall, the cut that is made to enable the board to go over the pipe should be hidden as best as it can behind the pipe, other wise the cut should be made vertically downwards. If the hole is near the board at the end, a cut can be made along the under side of the step.


Sealant

Sealant is only necessary in areas where water penetration is possible (Pipes or other items that

occur through the solid vinyl cladding.)

A non hardening type preferably the same colour as the siding should be used.

Only approved brands to be used.

OCP 20

Accessories

NOTE: Joins in all accessories with the exception of the starter strip must be overlapped.

Shaded areas represent portions to be cut away for proper overlapping. Cut outs should be 40

millimeters in length with only half of the distance being overlapped (i.e.: 20 millimeters overlap

on a 40 millimeter cut out.)

All materials must be nailed as described in application instructions.

STARTER STRIP

To be nailed at 200 millimeter intervals on the centre of the slot. Do not overlap.

OUTSIDE CORNER POSTS

Outside Corner Posts are to be nailed at 300 millimeter intervals on slot centers except initial

holding nail at centre.

I15 Starter Strip


UNDERSILL

Undersill is to be nailed at 200 millimeter on slot centers. For all non-insulated sidings.

J CHANNEL

J Channel is to be nailed at 300 millimeter intervals on slot centers.

NON INSULATED SIDINGS

To be nailed at 450 millimeters on the centre of the nailing slots.

INSULATED SIDING

To be nailed at 450 millimeters on the centre of the nailing slots. Insulating foam is to be cut back

50 millimeter on the overlapping board.

D5 I15 Board

D5CH Board Armour Board


GENERAL REQUIREMENTS PRIOR TO INSTALLATION

Site requirements:

The site should be prepared with straight and plumb walls, plumb windows and door frames.

All weatherproofing must be completed to the appropriate standard for every wall and wall

penetration.

Site conditions:

This manual covers the installation of the product in all wind zones up to and including "Very

High". In extreme wind areas, cyclone washers should be used.

Building code clauses that apply:

a. Clause B1 - Structure

b. Clause B2 - Durability

c. Clause E2 – Weathertightness

d. Clause H1 - Energy (Thermal) Efficiency

Components TO BE PROVIDED by owner builder:

a. Framing – correctly plumbed and straight

b. Wall wrap – taped correctly around every wall penetration

Components needed by the installer:

a. Roll of tape

b. Caulking gun

c. Water level hose

d. Crimp Tool

e. Slot Tool

f. Zip Tool


Storage & Handling of VPI Vinyl Cladding

It is recommended that both handling and installation is carried out by two people.

When in storage, boards must be laid flat in the original packaging directly on level ground out of

the way of passing traffic and where practical out of direct sunlight.

When removing the boards from packaging, cut through full length of external packaging and lift out.

Before commencing the task - IMPORTANT

It is necessary to compensate for natural horizontal expansion and contraction of the VPI

Vinyl Cladding. As a general rule expansion can be confined to 1 mm per lineal meter, but

read carefully the section on “Allowance for Expansion & Contraction” Vertical expansion is

insignificant and need not be compensated for.

Allowance for Expansion and Contraction

It is important that allowance is made for the natural expansion and contraction due to the

ambient temperature variation of Heritage Board.

As a rule, allow 5 millimeter clearance at each end of the board (a 10 millimeter total), but refer

to the table below for extra allowance due to extreme weather.

12

Ambient Temperature on Day of Fitting Total Clearance to Allow in Millimeters

0°C 2.0 mm per lineal meter of board length + 10mm





Trims Trims

Cladding Board

Half of total clearance - 5mm Half of total clearance - 5mm

Length of board

Length between trims


Installation of Boards

STARTER STRIP

The Starter Strip must be straight, level and line up at the corners as this will determine whether

the boards will line up on corresponding walls. Check the whole building to ascertain at which

level the siding will be started. Measure the width of the starter strip from the lowest point. This

will be the level at which the chalk line will be set to mark the top edge of the starter strip.

LOWEST CORNER

Using a water level, establish the corresponding point at the other end of the wall marking it with

the chalk line then fix the starter strip. Repeat this on all other walls ensuring all corners match

up and the last line matches the first line. When fixing the starter strip it should be stopped

short of all corners to allow fixing of the corner post. Approximately 75 to 100 millimeters is

acceptable.

ALTERNATIVE METHOD

If the house is out of level more than can be compensated for by the starter strip width,

sometimes it is appropriate to set the starter strip parallel to the existing wall level. The reason for

this is if the wall height is consistent and the bottom board is cut with a taper to start off with,

then the windows which will have drooped with the wall will not be parallel to the siding and the

top board will also need to be cut on a taper thus making the whole wall look crooked as it is. If

it is done parallel to existing, the droop will not be particularly noticeable and will be much more

pleasing to the eye.

Lowest Corner


Patios, Entrances or other Variations of Level.

At these obstacles starter strip is not appropriate as the portion of the board which engages the

starter strip will be cut off. In these cases a ‘J’ channel should be used. The ‘j’ will require a packing

piece in the back of it or an undersill, which ever is appropriate to maintain its original profile.

Outside Corner Posts

Measure from the top point on the corner of the house (i.e.: to the eave level) down to the

bottom of where the first board will be. This is the length of the corner post. Begin by nailing at

the top of the slot, halfway up the post. The rest of the nailing must be in the centre of the slots.

If more than one length is required, refer to the section on materials for cutting and overlapping

instructions.

NOTE: If you are installing eave linings as well, these should be done first, so that the wall trims

can be fitted up against them.

It is important that the outside corner posts are installed accurately and squarely to the corner. It

is possible to pull the corner out of shape if care is not taken, resulting in unevenness.

Correct This edge pulled out too far – pulling other edge

PackerUndersill

I15 Board

Building Paper

J Trim

OCP


Internal Corner Posts

Internal Corner Posts should be finished with two ‘J’ channels with caulking between them to

prevent water entry or alternatively one ‘J’ channel with an effective flashing behind.

“ J “ Channel

‘J’s’ are to be used as trims around the perimeter of windows and doors, tops of walls and

perimeters of gables, meter boxes, verandahs etc.

“J’s” are to be cut in such a way that they are folded for internal bends so that they act like a

watercourse.

Rain can’t get in at joints

Rain gets in every joint

Method 1. (Preferred)

ICP20

Wall wrap

Wall frame

Method 2. Alternative

Flashing

J15


Basic Rule: All higher “J’s” overlap lower “J’s”.

When this trim is folded it will overlap the right hand side of itself forming a weather lip but most

importantly will conform to the system of overlapping all of the trims (i.e.: Top piece overlaps

bottom piece). Similarly for steps;

“J” channeling should always be started at the lowest point and work up.

This end is ready to receive trims to be cut.

This end is ready to fit into already installed lower “ J “.

***NOTE: Wooden windows must have

their sill horns cut flush with outside edge

of side architraves.

“J’s” for doors, windows, air conditioners,

etc., should be cut like this:

As you can see these trims will all

interlock serving two purposes:

1. To make neat mitred joins

2. To help keep water away from the

window frame


Undersill or Finishing Trim

Undersill (U/S) is installed inside a “J” Channel only. It can be used anywhere there is a

longitudinal cut on the wall boards (i.e.: over and under doors, windows, meter boxes,

verandas, etc). One of its uses is to hold the siding rigid where it has had to be cut off. BUT

most importantly, it is used as a fastening system for the top board of a wall or under a door or

window. The U/S trim should be positioned so as to maintain the natural profile of the siding.

Layout of Boards - Siding Panels

On the front and back walls, overlaps are to face away from entering pedestrians, to make them

less noticeable. On the sidewalls, the overlaps should be facing the rear. In some instances,

joins can be concealed behind gateposts, down pipes, sewer vent pipes, pergolas and all the

like. However, where there is no camouflage, overlaps should be either stepped up the wall

starting the first step to the rear, or if it is the customer’s preference a brick work pattern may be

appropriate.

Crimp

U/S trim can also be used over windows

and verandas in the same way.


Always check overlapped ends for neatness before application. The overlap cut should be cut out at

the top of the overlapping boards; the under lap cut out at the bottom of the under lapped board.

Overlaps must never be stacked upon each other as they rely on the board above and the board

below to lock them into position.

If joins must be stacked, they have to terminate in a “J” Channel and begin again from another

(i.e.: back to back “J’s”).

Wall board overlapping should be 35-40mm in a 50mm cut out.

General Tips

No board should be cut less than 1000mm where it is used to make up the full length of a wall

longer than the full board length (i.e.: If a wall is 8.5m long, don’t use 8m+ .5m, use 7.5m+ 1000

or 7m+ 1500mm etc).

The first panel is engaged into the starter strip and the corners or J channels and nailed in the

centre of the board. Nail both ways at 450mm centers (i.e.: stud spacings).

Ensure that the siding is not nailed so tightly to the wall as to prevent its natural expansion. Also

that the 5mm has been observed at the ends of the board for the same reason. (See section

“Allowance for expansion and contraction”).

EXPANSION ALLOWANCE

Remember: Always allow for expansion.

REMINDER: DO NOT NAIL AT THE ENDS OF THE SLOTS.

Finishing


Armour Board Installation

When fitting Armour Board joiners, the joiner should be

inserted against the end of the fitted board, and the correct

allowance made for expansion and contraction when

cutting the next board. Do not fit the board with too much

clearance, otherwise the joiner may fall out.ALLOWANCE FOR EXPANSION

Installing a Joiner

Soaker

Wall Wrap

Wall Frame

Joiner

D5I15 - Everlast I15


Windows and Doors – (Chamfer & I10 Board)

To fit the boards around openings, such as windows, doors, meter boxes and the like, measure

from the bottom of the locking strip. At the last full panel of siding, measure and cut the board

to allow the crimped panels top edge to engage the under 'J' trim with 5mm clearance.

Alternative method for checking cut out width of board is to use a scrap piece and then taking

the measurement from the marked piece.

Use the snap lock punch (crimper) to perforate the trimmed edge of the siding panel at 200mm

intervals. Ensure the punched ears are facing forward so they will engage in the under-sill trim.

Lock the top edge of the trimmed board into the under-sill trim ensuring at the same time that it

is engaging the locking lip of the board below.

The snap lock punch (crimper) must be used on all upward locking chamfor and I10 boards when

a trimmed panel is engaged in an under-sill trim.

To fit siding over the top of a window or door, etc. cut the bottom section of the panel (leaving

clearance for expansion/contraction) so that the trimmed edge engages fully in the under-sill or “J”.

Allow 5mm expansions on both sides of

window.

Crimp every 200mm to attach to J Trim

Slide board up

Installed J Trim

Allow 5mm expansions on both sides of window.

Slide board up

5mm


Installing Armour Board around Windows & Doors

Under-sill may be required for Armour Board. Fit as for I10 above. No under-sill trim is required for

Armour board, because of its backing and its fastening system, also the measurements are taken differently.

When cut to size this panel will sit as the above to complete its installation. An upward push hit with your hand, on the bottom edge of the board starting at one end and traveling along as it

snaps in, is the preferred method.

NOTE: The top edge of the board must first be placed in position.

Certain instances, where the top board finishes at its thinnest point, the back face of the J30

must be packed to ensure that the top board will not be loose when installed.

Note: A 2 part J may be used at the top of walls.

10mm

Distance + 10mm


Top of Wall Finish

Siding is measured and finished off at the top of the wall in exactly the same fashion as under a

window or door for each of the insulated or non-insulated types.

In some unavoidable instances you will observe a bow or a sag in the eave line that cannot be

practically remedied. To cut the board accurately, you should mark the wall at 1000mm intervals

and measure the height at each interval.

0 = 150 1 = 140 2 = 130 3 = 130 4 = 140 5= 160 END = 165

Finishing Gables

Trim the gables around the perimeter and cut the boards on the correct angle allowing expansion

and fasten as per wall cladding. In instances where fastening is limited, the gable may need to be

battened.

Board height should be checked first to find the point of intersection with the ‘J’ channel, These

points are then marked as a measure along the top edge of the already installed board. This

will show the height at start or 0 mm, length as 0mm. The point of intersection (i.e.: boards full

heights) as 670mm. The point it meets the ‘J’ again as 1350 mm and the point it finishes at 0mm

high as 2020mm. Check the expansion space on every board before fixing.

0 1 2 3 4 5 END

0mm 2020mm670mm 1350mm

Full Board Height


Installing Soffits

To be fastened at 450mm intervals.

For eave applications on houses with enclosed overhangs, start by installing the J channel at

either side then cutting board with an allowance for expansion.

For application on buildings with open rafter construction, the wall must have a batten installed

for the j channel fastening and the eave lining fastening. An intermediate nailing batten will be

needed if the overhang exceeds 450mm.

For eave installations with a new fascia cover, the outside J can be deleted. However, the inside

eave J should be installed as a water proofing agent. The top wall J should be sealed against the

inside eave J.

To mitre eave linings, install back to back “J” channels and cut out eave linings to suit.

Cladding

Fascia

J

JJ

Rafter

V5

JJ

New Fascia Cover

Bottom view of eve.

5mm maxSealant

5mm maxSealant


Where a wall must have joins and there

are pipes coming through the wall, a join

can be made at the pipe.

H3 timber

packers to

fit where

insulation

has been

removed.

WAVERING EAVES: Quite often eaves can waver up and down; these can be straightened out

usually by installing eave J15 on a straight line rather than following the existing waver.

CUTTING: Extreme caution should be exercised when cutting siding with power tools, because

of its light weight. Cutting should be done with the blade installed back to front; otherwise the

siding may throw off dangerous fragments.

Use plywood cutting blade or similar.

Extreme caution must be exercised to stop the blade from “running on” on the board.

*******ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION******

LIGHTS AND DOORBELLS: When fitting lights and

other fixtures over cladding it is sometimes necessary

to pack behind the cladding to prevent crushing of the

profile. Also slot holes laterally and do not over-tighten

fittings as to prevent expansion and contraction.

TRIMS: The recess in an OCP and a ‘J’ channel are the

same width. This creates a difficulty with intersecting

them. The most appropriate way is not to fasten the

top and the bottom 450mm of the OCP until the ‘J’ is

inserted with both flanges of the ‘J’ behind the flanges

of the OCP. When the ‘J’ is positioned accurately the

corner may then be manipulated to sit correctly and

not flare at top or bottom.

OCP 20

J TRIM


CONSTRUCTION CHECKLIST:

a. Ensure framing correct b. Special requirements for Very High wind zone c. Setout of fixing blocks for penetrations and external fixings d. Setout of head flashings

REGULAR MAINTENANCE:

With very little maintenance, VPI Vinyl Siding can be kept looking clean and new. We recommend that you wash your house 3 times a year to keep the Vinyl Siding’s appearance.

Use a long handled soft bristle brush that attaches to your garden hose, start at the top of your house and work down to the bottom to prevent streaking.

If any dirt, grime or soot is present and hard to remove, wipe down the Vinyl Siding with a solution of mild dishwashing detergent and warm water.

A mild liquid car wax may be applied to the water. This will assist in retaining the “new” look of your Vinyl Siding for many years

DO NOT use any harsh detergent, or products containing bleach or insecticide.

WARRANTY OFFER:

VPI offers a warranty on the longevity and performance of our product. The Warranty on your product will be the Warranty in force at the time of purchase. VPI’s current warranty may be viewed on our website.

WARRANTY CLAIM:

In the unlikely event that you need to call on our warranty, call your New Zealand distributor. They will evaluate and rectify the issue. Should you still not be satisfied with the rectification, you may apply direct to VPI Building Products. VPI stands behind our product and will do all within our ability to ensure your Vinyl Siding provides protection for your house for years to come.


Examples of Expansion Calculations:

We are fitting a board to a section of wall that is 5.00 meters length inside the trim.

1. The temperature is 20°C: The calculation for 20°C is 1 millimeter per lineal meter of board

length plus 10 millimeters. The calculation is:

1 millimeter x 5 metres + 10 millimeters = 15 millimeters.

Therefore, we cut the board at 4.985 meters. Fit the board so that there is an equal gap

between the trim and the board at each end.

2. If the temperature was 10°C, then the calculation is:

1.5 millimeters x 5 metres + 10 millimeters = 17.5 millimeters.




0.5 millimeters x 5 metres + 10 millimeters = 12.5 millimeters.




10mm extra allowance



Necessary Tools & Equipment

• Hammer

• Nails

• Screws

• Chalk-Line

• Ladder

• Plank

• Tin Snips

• Tape Measure

• Utility Knife

• Carpentry Saw

• Circular Saw

• Spirit Level

• Water Level

• Pencil

• Screw Driver

• 4” Right-Angle Grinder


Heavy Fixture

Elevation

Light Fixture

Elevation

Wall Framing

Wall Framing

Cladding

Wall Wrap

Wall Wrap

Attach block to wall frame, fix filling to block.

Light weight fixture

Bracket

Slot hole under fastener head before fixing

Slot hole under fastener head before fixing

DETAILED DRAWINGS

H3 timber packers to fit where insulation has been removed.


Plan Window Aluminium Cladding Window

OPTION 1.

PLAN Aluminium Frame

Wall

Framing

NZ 'J Trim'

NZ 'J Trim'

NZ 'J Trim'

NZ 'J Trim'

OPTION 2.

PLAN

Reveal

Aluminium

Wall

Framing

Wall

Framing

5mm maxSealant

5mm maxSealant


Aluminium Head Flashing (FRONT VIEW)d. 2i

Cladding

J20

J20 X-RAY view

Aluminium Head Flashing (PROFILE)d. 2

Other Surface

Head flashing

Other Surface

Wall Wrap

J Trim

Wall

Framing

Starting Above Other Surfaced. 1

Other

Surface

Starter Flat

Wall Wrap

FlashingWall

Framing


Wall FramingWall Framing

Wall Wrap

TapeTape

Meter Box

f. Accessories used to weatherproof a window or door

e. Jamb to sill flashing junction - pc and drawing

J20 J20

5mm max 5mm maxSealant Sealant

Wall Framing

Wall Wrap

“fixing/nail”

Aluminium window

Window support

ELEVATION

Reveal

NZ 'J Trim'


g. Pipe flashing

h. Soffit to wall junction detail

Wall Framing

Cavity Batten

Tape*

Tape*

(*Nominated sealing tape - this applies to any reference to the term ‘tape’ withinn this document)

Vinyl siding

Pipe

Wall Wrap


j.

i.

Wall Framing

Starter

Wall Wrap

Rafter

Roofing Material

Corner Post

Wall to roof junction detail

Flashing

Cladding

ICP20

Cladding

Building Paper

Wall Framing

33Heritage Vinyl Cladding Installation Guide33

J20

Cladding

OCP Corner

Post

Sealant

garage door

Garage door guideTape(50mm x 30mm U-Trim)

Wall Wrap

l. Construction detail for reveal to a

garage door or entrance

k. Space between paved and

unpaved ground

Wall Framing

Starter

Wall wrap

Ground

100mm to Paved

150mm to Unpaved

“fixing/nail”

Wall Framing

5mm max


APPLICATION CHECKLIST:

Before installation Date Initial Date Initial

Building paper correctly applied

Tape on building paper correctly applied

Wall penetrations correctly flashed

Blocking for external fixings

During trim installation

Wall penetrations correctly flashed

Header trims correctly flashed

Correct fixings used

All trims correctly cut, fixed and taped as necessary

Meter boxes flashed and taped correctly

Sealant applied between trims and other penetration material (eg meter boxes, architraves) correctly

Trims cut, fastened and taped correctly

Trims fitted neatly

During board installation

Board length expansion and contraction requirements observed

Joins lapped correctly

Board spacing matched correctly around corners

Very High wind fixings used where applicable

Joins facing away from the street

Joins staggered correctly on the walls

Joins only as dictated by wall length over a standard board length

Joins holding tight together, not gaping open

Penetrations cut to the smallest practicable size

Penetrations flashed or sealed correctly


INSPECTORS CHECKLIST

Checkpoints Date Initial Date Initial

Very High wind fixings used where applicable

Joins facing away from the street

Joins staggered correctly on the walls

Joins only as dictated by wall length over a standard board length

Joins holding tightly together, not gaping open

Penetrations cut to the smallest practicable size

Penetrations flashed or sealed correctly

All trims cut correctly and neatly

Board spacing matches correctly at corners

Top board fixed firmly so it does not “rattle out”

INSTALLERS SHOULD BE:

a. A tradesman with the correct cladding endorsement b. “approved” ie have been trained to correct standards in the fitting of cladding, and have a personal agreement to fit product to approved standards

APPRAISAL INFORMATION:

VPI Building ProductsPO Box 485 (25 Whitton Street) Katoomba NSW 2780Telephone: 1300 844 202 Fax: (02) 4782 0699 Email: [email protected] 26 137 149 85 ACN 141 535 597

© VPI Building Products 2018

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