v-venezia magazine 3 - september octobert 2013 (english version)
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V-Venezia magazine is the new digital magazine written by the Tourism Department of the City of Venice. It promotes sustainable cultural tourism: art exhibitions and events, but also itineraries and eco-friendly travel ideas, in Venice and in its lagoon.TRANSCRIPT
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Le opere di due straordinari collezionisti, nonno e nipote, per la prima volta riunite allaCa’ d’Oro, la dimora che il primo, il barone Giorgio Franchetti, scelse per contenere isuoi tesori poi messi a disposizione di tutti. Accanto alle raccolte antiche del nonno,
per la durata della mostra viene esposta la non meno rara collezione di Giorgio jr che documenta, in modo esemplare, il nuovo dell’arte italiana del secondo dopoguerra. Diversissimele loro collezioni di opere d’arte, diversissimo del resto era anche il momento storico e lecondizioni in cui vissero e operarono. Il barone Franchetti sr amava l’arte antica, i maestriminori, le opere rare e non ancora famose. Il nipote, Giorgio jr, l’arte del suo tempo e del suo
Events
Venetian festivals
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Off course: the other Venice
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Exhibitions in Venice
Music venues
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Off course. The othermap of Venice is a brandnew map of the city, the littlevademecum of ideas andadvice for ecofriendly andfair trade holidays in the lagoon, away from the usualtourist routes. It's more thanjust a map produced by theMunicipality of Venice incollaboration with the noprofitorganisation AEres it is full ofrecommendations for where togo for green and fair tradeshopping (shops, markets,farms), and also suggests ecofriendly and vegetarianplaces to stay and eat in thecentre of Venice, the otherislands of the lagoon and thesurrounding area. The wholepublication can be consulted before you set out, on the portal of
www.veniceconnected.com/fuorirotta
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Rendezvous with artCollezionismi al la Ca' D'Oro
Exhibitions in VeniceOltre 20 mostre d'arte da nonperdere
Venetian festivalsLa Regata Storica
See you in VeniceCartel lone degli eventi in corso
Verdi & Wagner 2013Viva Verdi
Off course: the other VeniceFrom Venice to Pellestrina
The stones of Venicevenetian curiosities, traditionsand ancient crafts
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www.veniceconnected.com/fuorirotta
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The artworks assembled by two extraordinary collectors, grandfather and grandson,are united for the first time at Ca’ d’Oro, the residence chosen by the former, BaronGiorgio Franchetti, to house his treasures, which he later donated to the public.
Alongside the antique works collected by his grandfather, the equally rare collection ofGiorgio junior is displayed for the duration of the exhibition, an exemplary documentationof the new Italian art of the postwar period. Two very different art collections, very differenttoo the historical context and milieu in which the two men lived and moved. BaronFranchetti senior was a lover of ancient art, minor masters, rare and as yet undiscovered
From GiorgioFranchettito GiorgioFranchetti
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www.veniceconnected.com/fuorirotta
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works. His grandson, Giorgio junior, lovedthe art of his era and habitat, Rome in the1950s and 60s, a time of innovation andferment, which he seized upon and evenenlivened. From Giorgio senior'sknowledgeable passion for ancient art,particularly from the Renaissance, comes ahighly original collection of artists fromTuscany and central Italy, Venice andFlanders, from Giambono to Mantegna,from Titian, Tintoretto and Paris Bordon toGuardi, but also van Eyck and van Dyck,Paul Brill and Joachim Patinier. Hisgrandson Giorgio Franchetti, who diedseveral years ago,collected Tano Festa, CyTwombly, EnricoCastellani, PieroManzoni, AlighieroBoetti, Gino DeDominicis, MimmoRotella, Mario Schifano,Ceroli, Fabro, Luigi
Ontani… and if he made a concession to"historical" painting it was for GiacomoBalla. These works are reunited, having beenscattered following the collector's death, inthe second floor "portego" of Cà d’Oro.
The exh i b i t i on
Every part of the Ca’ d’Oro is involved in thislargescale exhibition dedicated to the twoFranchettis. The itinerary begins in thepalace's atmospheric interior courtyard,resting place of Giorgio senior's ashes, andcontinues on the first floor with a section
entirelydedicated to theMuseum'sfounder, hisfamily and hisgenerousdonation of theCa’ d’Oro andits art collection
I n fo rmat i onuntil 24th NovemberGalleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca' d'OroMonday 8.15 - 14.00; Tuesday to Saturday 8.15 -15.00; Sunday 10.00 - 18.00.Sunday and holiday opening times are subject tovariation.www.cadoro.org
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to the state in 1916.The heart and soul of the Baron's collection isthe socalled Chapel of Mantegna, conceived bythe owner to house the suffering St. Sebastian.Andrea Mantegna's masterpiece stands as asymbol of the nobleman's obstinatedetermination to turn Ca’ d’Oro into a sublimeplace of beauty and art. Among the mostprestigious works in the gallery which alsoboasts a fascinating section of sixteenth andseventeenth century Flemish and Dutchpainting, including Van Dyck's portait ofMarcello Durazzo are Titian's Venus withMirror, and two Venetian vedute by FrancescoGuardi. Equally significant are the Renaissancesculptures which were gradually added to thecollection, and the series of medals, bronzes,carpets, tapestries, detached frescoes andwooden furniture from various periods andprovenance, as well as a huge collection ofceramics acquired by the museum in 1992.The part of the exhibition devoted to the baron'sgrandson, on the second floor, highlights hispassion and skill as a collector of modern art in
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LeonardoDaVinci
dal 1° settembre al 1° dicembre
Gallerie dell'Accademia.
La mostra si sviluppa attorno all’eccezionale
nucleo di fogli autografi del maestro di
Vinci, tra esse risalta il celeberrimo studio
di proporzioni umane, noto come Uomo Vi
truviano.
www.gallerieaccademia.org
NapoleoneMartinuzzi
dal 8 settembre al 1° dicembre
Fondazione Giorgio Cini
Isola di San Giorgio
La mostra illustrerà l'intera produzione
dell'artista per la vetreria Venini.
Dopo gli eleganti soffiati trasparenti anche
le opere dalla inedita tessitura opaca.
www.lestanzedelvetro.it/
LaBelladelTizianodal 12 settembre al 8 dicembre
Palazzo Grimani
Castello 4858
“La Bella di Tiziano”, meglio nota come “La
Bella”, restaurata da pochi anni, è uno dei
dipinti più celebri del maestro cadorino.
www.palazzogrimani.org
IDonidiShahAbbasdal 28 settembre al 12 gennaio 2014
Palazzo Ducale
Percorso attraverso le relazioni diplomati
che tra la Serenissima e la Persia all’epoca di
Shah Abbas I il Grande.
www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it
SylvanoBussotti
dal 28 settembre al 7 gennaio 2014
Casa di Carlo Goldoni
San Polo 2794
La Casa di Carlo Goldoni fa da cornice idea
le all’esposizione in anteprima delle mario
netteburattino create dalla geniale fantasia
di uno dei personaggi più poliedrici del
mondo dell’arte.
www.carlogoldoni.visitmuve.it
Avanguardiepariginedal 29 settembre al 6 gennaio 2014
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
Dorsoduro 701
La mostra raccoglie una ricca selezione di
circa 100 dipinti e opere su carta e si foca
lizza sulle maggiori avanguardie francesi di
fine Ottocento.
www.guggenheimvenice.it
Camera1953/1964dal 5 ottobre all’8 dicembre
Ca’ Pesaro
Santa Croce 2076
La rivista “Camera”, pubblicata a partire dai
primi anni ’20 in Svizzera, diventa negli
anni ’50 e ‘60 un punto di riferimento
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internazionale per la fotografia, grazie
all’impegno di Romeo Martinez che la dirige
fino al 1964.
www.capesaro.visitmuve.it
LacollezionePanzadal 5 ottobre al 12 gennaio 2014
Ca' Pesaro
Santa Croce 2076
La mostra rende omaggio a Giuseppe Panza
di Biumo, la cui passione, intuito e fede
nell’arte contemporanea hanno permesso di
creare una delle più interessanti raccolte
d’arte delle pitture americane del secondo
dopoguerra.
www.capesaro.visitmuve.it
LaCollezioneSonnabendfino al 29 settembre
Ca’ Pesaro
Santa Croce 2076
Ileana Sonnabend è stata una delle più
grandi e influenti scopritrici di talenti artisti
ci della seconda metà del Novecento, la sua
visionarietà precorritrice e quell’eclettismo
di gusto e pensiero le hanno permesso di
comprendere e promuovere il nuovo
nell’arte americana e europea.
www.capesaro.visitmuve.it
TimeLapsefino al 24 novembre
Negozio Olivetti
San Marco 101
Il progetto comprende un’installazione so
nora dei Dj Donato Dozzy e Rabih Beaini e
una mostra fotografica di Armin Linke, che
presentano una rilettura, attraverso il suono
e la fotografia, dell’architettura del Negozio
Olivetti progettato da Carlo Scarpa.
www.negoziolivetti.it
Amarcordfino al 24 novembre
Ca’ Giustinian
San Marco 1364/A
In questa mostra vengono portati alla luce
frammenti della storia della Biennale di Ve
nezia, grazie all’incursione del curatore che
si è imbattuto in alcuni materiali e li ha scelti
con lo spirito del collezionista e dell’appas
sionato più che dello storico o dello studioso.
www.labiennale.org
RudolfStingelfino al 31 dicembre
Palazzo Grassi
San Marco 3231
La mostra presenta una selezione di oltre
trenta dipinti, alcuni di proprietà dell’artista,
altri provenienti dalla collezione Pinault e da
altre collezioni internazionali.
www.palazzograssi.it
StudiescopertealCorrerfino al 31 dicembre 2015
Museo Correr
Piazza San Marco, 52
Opere d’arte e raffinatissimi manufatti, sia
veneziani che provenienti da luoghi lontani,
riuniti in serrato dialogo a evocare l’ideale
raccolta di un colto collezionista in un pa
lazzo patrizio: un “tesoro” finalmente ritro
vato.
www.correr.visitmuve.it
Veneziae laGraficafino al 15 settembre
Ca' Pesaro
Santa Croce 2076
La mostra ripercorre i passi di un’avventura
culturale che vide Venezia al centro del di
battito incisorio italiano più aggiornato, po
nendo le basi anche di un importante
confronto internazionale.
www.capesaro.visitmuve.it
INCHIUSURA
Outsider inaboxfino al 5 settembre
Museo Ebraico
Mostra personale di Dwora Fried. Potenti e
provocatorie, a volte ironiche, le creazioni di
Dwora Fried catturano persone, luoghi ed
emozioni sotto vetro. Letteralmente.
www.museoebraico.it
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The Regata Storica (Historical Regatta) is an important sporting event combined with a historicalcommemoration, which takes place on the firstSunday in September each year. The event consists oftwo distinct stages: the historical pageant, followed bythe competitive regatta.
The h i s to r i c a l pagean t
The event commemorates the welcome given in 1489 toCaterina Cornaro, wife of the King of Cyprus,who gave up her throne in favour of the Republic ofVenice. The spectacular pageant features scores ofboats in sixteenthcentury style, brightly coloured androwed by gondoliers in period costume, which transport the Doge, his wife and all the highestrankingVenetian officials, in a faithful reconstruction of theglorious past of one of the Mediterranean's mostpowerful and influential Maritime Republics.The procession departs from the Bacino di San Marcoand travels the length of the Grand Canal to the Pontedella Costituzione, before following the same route backto the finish line of the rowing races, greeted by applause from Venetians and tourists watching the magnificent sight from the banks and buildings along theroute.
The regat ta
The competitive part of the celebrations consists of theboat races, and even today this is the most importantand prestigious rowing event in the Venetian calendar.The winners receive prizes from the highest city authorities and are seen as true Venetian champions andheld in enormous respect in the world of rowing. Todaythe four competitions are subdivided by age and type ofcraft: the most famous, and hugely anticipated by theVenetians, is the race of the "Campioni su Gondolini",
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small gondolas which fly down the GrandCanal to the finish line at the famous machina, the floating stage moored in front of theCa' Foscari, seat of the University of Venice.As well as cash prizes, the first four teamsclassified receive traditional symbolic flags.The winners are awarded red flags, followedby white, green and blue. Until 2002 tradition required the fourth team in the champions' race to be awarded a live piglet, whichwould feature in the historical pageant.However, due to protests from animal rightscampaigners, the live piglet has been replaced by a pig made of Murano glass. Theessential points and stages of the regatta are: the spagheto, the rope stretched acrossthe starting line in front of the Sant’Elenagardens; the paleto, a pole fixed in the centre of theGrand Canal in front of Santa Lucia railwaystation, where so tradition has it the winners are determined; the machina, a floating construction carried by a barge anchored in a bend in thecanal in front of Cà Foscari, sumptuouslydecorated with gold and coloured carvings,the official finishing place for the races andwhere the prizes are given.
La B i s son a
This is a special kind of boat, sleek in shape,fast and flatbottomed, used exclusively inwater pageants and processions. It featureslavish traditional decorations and is typicallyrowed by eight oarsmen. The name comesfrom the dialect word "bissa", meaning watersnake, an extremely fast swimmer, while thetype of craft probably descends from ancientwarships, known for their speed and manoeuvrability. The bissone is used for specialoccasions, such as the water pageant whichopens the Regata Storica, or for traditionalcommemorative events like the Sposalizio delMare (marriage of the sea). Two other typesof boat are often commonly called bissonebut in fact have a different kind of construction: the bissona Serenissima, seventeenmetres long, keeled rather than flatbottomed and powered by eighteen oarsmen,and the bissona Dogaressa, which is actuallya special fouroared gondola, richly decorated and bigger than the traditional gondola.
Taken from Wikipedia
FESTE PATRONALIFesta del mosto6 ottobreIsola di Sant'Erasmo (Ve)www.santerasmovenezia.com
Festa del peocio (cozza)dal 6 all’8 settembreOasi WWFDune degli AlberoniLido di Veneziawww.dunealberoni.it
Mestre in centrofino al 27 ottobrein occasione della Festa diSan MicheleMestre (Ve)www.mestreincentro.it
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CULTURALEVENTS
70.InternationalCinematographicArtExhibition
until 7th September – Venice Lido
The Exhibition aims to promote the knowledge
and circulation of international cinema in all its
forms of art, show and industry, in a spirit of
freedom and dialogue. The show organises ret
rospectives and homages to important person
alities, contributing to an improved knowledge
of the history of cinema.
www.labiennale.org
Campielloaward2013
7th September La Fenice Theatre
The prestigious literary award ceremony is
held in one of the most representative and
prestigious backdrops of the city’s history
and culture. It is an exclusive appointment,
strictly by invite only, where high society,
culture and show business meet.
www.premiocampiello.org
MUSIC
3.FestivalGaetanoCallido
until 27th September, every Friday at 9pm –
Various churches in Venice
Il Festival pone come propri obiettivi la cono
scenza e la promozione dell’arte della musica
d’organo nella città, attraverso appuntamenti
settimanali ad ingresso libero diretti alla cit
tadinanza e ai visitatori.
www.callidoavenezia.com
AVVENIMENTI SPORTIVI
HistoricalRegatta20131st September – St Mark’s Basin
TheRegattasgiverowingchampionsachancetocom
pete: the spectators participate with passion by shout
ingwordsofencouragementtotheirfavourites.
www.regatastoricavenezia.it
LugsailDay
8th September – St Mark’s Basin
The President of the Republic’s Cup is a
regatta in St Mark’s Basin followed by a
parade to the Campo dell’Arsenale, where
boats and AVT instructors will be available
to respond to citizens’ questions and doubts.
Followed by refreshments for all parti
cipants.
www.velaalterzo.it
FlyVenicefrom 20th to 22nd September Nicelli
Airport – Venice Lido
This event takes place every year in
September at the Nicelli Airport on the
Venice Lido. During the fair you can visit
exhibitions, take part in conventions and, of
course, watch the acrobatic shows.
www.aeroportonicelli.it
28.VeniceMarathon27th October – Waterfront on the Riva dei
Sette Martiri
Every year this internationallyrenowned
sports event attracts thousands of marathon
runners from all over the world.
www.venicemarathon.it
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“Trafaria Praia” Floating Pavilion
until 24th November – Riva dei Partigiani
(near the ACTV Gardens stop)
A journey in a typical Portuguese boat
where you will find yourself in a surreal
atmosphere. The crossing takes place
between the Gardens and the Customs
Point.
www.vasconcelostrafariapraia.com
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5 5 . I n te rn at i on a l Ar tE xh i b i t i on
“Trafaria Praia” Floating Pavilion
until 24th November – Riva dei Partigiani
(near the ACTV Gardens stop)
A journey in a typical Portuguese boat
where you will find yourself in a surreal
atmosphere. The crossing takes place
between the Gardens and the Customs
Point.
www.vasconcelostrafariapraia.com
ALTRI EVENTI
BochaleriaiGiardini20137th, 15th September, 5th and 20th October
from 10am to 6pm – Giardini di Castello
Venice’s potters reawaken a passion for a
forgotten art. Including conferences and
ceramics workshops open to all.
www.bochaleri.it
2. AltroFuturoFairfrom13thto15thSeptFondamentaZattere,Venice
from19thto22ndSeptPiazzaFerretto,Mestre
On each of the seven days, there will be a
market fair, a nonstop series of laboratories,
meetings, presentations and shows dedicated
to both adults and children.
www.altrofuturo.net
AntiquesMarket
from20thto22ndSeptember–CampoSanMaurizio
A traditional antiques market held, as
always, in the splendid backdrop of Campo
San Maurizio, just a stone’s throw from St
Mark’s Square.
www.mercatinocamposanmaurizio.it
AutumninMestreuntil 27th October – Mestre
This year’s traditional appointment organ
ised in occasion of the Patron Saint St Mi
chael Archangel has a full calendar of quality
initiatives.
www.mestreincentro.it
GUIDEDTOURS
CrossBearers'Oratory
The painting cycle of Palma the Young is conserved
here: eight large canvasses taking up the entire wall
space narrate, with strong realism, the events linked
to the history of the hospital and the CrossBearing
Monks. Open upon request/booking.
www.scalabovolo.org/oratorio2.html
MentalHospitalMuseumSan Servolo Island
Ancient Benedictine monastery and later
convent, in the 1700s San Servolo became a
Military Hospital and finally a Psychiatric
Hospital for men until 1978. Today, the mu
seum narrates the approach of medicine to
mental illness over the centuries. Open upon
request/booking.
www.fondazionesanservolo.it
WagnerMuseumVenice Town Casino Ca' Vendramin Calergi
The collection of Josef Lienhart, the largest
private collection dedicated to the German
composer after that of Bayreuth, is exhibited in
the room where Richard Wagner died and the
rooms next to it, set up as a museum. Booking is
obligatory by 12 PM of the day before the visit.
www.casinovenezia.it
HospitalMusicRoom’Ospedaletto Church
Connected to the activities of famous musicians, the
Room was frescoed by Jacopo Guarana and
Agostino Mengozzi Colonna, interpreters of a tradi
tion that reached its maximum splendour in the
1700s thanks to the artist Giambattista Tiepolo’s
example. Open upon request/booking.
www.scalabovolo.org/ospedaletto2.html
FOR FAMILIES
OUR WI NG EDFRI ENDS
6th October 10.30am Dune degli
Alberoni WWF Oasis
Migratory bird ringing session
www.dunealberoni.it
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MMiicchheell ee CCrroosseerraa
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Two hundred years ago two giants of music and theatre were born: Giuseppe Verdi andRichard Wagner. Their works have never been more alive and relevant on stages all overthe world, and are also celebrated in the lagoon city. For the month of September, here is
a short itinerary in Venice for lovers of Verdi; a late summer or early autumn strollthrough the Cannaregio and San Marco districts in the very heart of the city, taking in thetheatres where Verdi's music was first performed in the 19th century or where Verdi's works, orconcerts dedicated to the maestro, are being staged at the conclusion of the 20122013 season.The route begins in the area of San Giovanni Grisostomo, a few steps from the Rialto andthe Grand Canal, at the Theatre of San Giovanni Grisostomo, which was renamed TeatroMalibran in 1835 in honour of the soprano Elvira Malibran following the singer's success inVincenzo Bellini's La Sonnambula. Built in 1677 by the Grimani family on a site once occupied
Long liveVerdi
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by the house of the famous Venetian explorerMarco Polo (destroyed by fire in the late sixteenth century), in the 17th century this wasthe grandest and bestknown theatre inEurope and the largest and most sumptuously decorated in Venice: an enormouschandelier was raised and lowered through atrapdoor in the ceiling; all the columns werecarved and gilded. In 1875 the theatre stagedan enormously successful performance of theRequiem Mass composed by Verdi on thedeath of Alessandro Manzoni.Continuing towards Campo San Bartolomeoand then Campo San Salvador, after the Pontedel Lovo we arrive at the Carlo GoldoniTheatre, formerly known as Teatro Vendramin, also called San Salvador or San Luca.Built in 1622 on behalf of the Vendramin family, the theatre was named after Carlo Goldoniin 1875. In 1847 the theatre staged Alzira, anopera set in Latin America and one of thecomposer's less successful works, which received extremely negative reviews. Today
Teatro Goldoni hosts the prose season organised by the “Carlo Goldoni” Teatro Stabile delVeneto, and the festival of children's theatre,as well as opera, concerts and ballets.Leaving behind Campo San Luca and CampoManin, we take the narrow Calle della Mandola, and immediately on the right is theRossini multiscreen cinema complex,opened in October 2012, whose layout almostexactly replicates the former Teatro di SanBenedetto (subsequently Teatro Venier,Teatro Gallo, Teatro Rossini). Built by theGrimani family in 1755, this was one of thefirst theatres in Europe to have a curtain; today it is the largest cinema in the oldpart of Venice. In May 1854 the theatre stageda hugely successful repeat performance ofVerdi's masterpiece La Traviata, a year afterits premiere in the Teatro La Fenice.Symbol of the history of Italian opera, LaFenice, built in 1792, stands in Campo SanFantin, a mere stone's throw from Calle dellaMandola, turning left down Calle degli Assas
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sini. Composers who have brought fame andfortune to the theatre include GioacchinoRossini with Tancredi in 1813, Gaetano Donizetti with Belisario in 1836, and above all Giuseppe Verdi with Rigoletto in 1851 and LaTraviata in 1853. Thanks to these masterpieces,La Fenice became one of Italy's bestknowntheatres, hosting some of the most audacious andexperimental works in the Italian lyrical tradition.La Fenice reopens after the summer break withthe tragic story of love between Violetta Valéryand Alfredo Germont, marking the 160th anniversary of the opera's premiere, featuring therecent but classic direction of Robert Carsen andunder the baton of Diego Matheuz. The first performance on Friday 30th August 2013 will be followed by thirteen performances, on 31st Augustand 1st, 3rd, 8th, 10th, 14th, 17th, 19th, 21st, 24th, 25th,27th and 28th September. Bringing the Verdi celebrations to a close on Thursday 10th Octoberfrom 5 PM, the Fenice's Sale Apollinee payhomage to the Swan of Busseto with an eveningof music and readings on the anniversary ofthe composer's date of birth.
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The sunny September days are perhaps the bestdays of the year to discover Venice with a shortboat trip in the Venetian Lagoon and to get to
know the many different faces of Venice in fact, it is saidthat every island is a little world in itself. In few places inthe world is it possible to forget one’s present, immersingoneself in the laid back atmosphere that one feels in someislands of the Lagoon, like Lido and Pellestrina. Whocould impagine that here, not far from the famous PiazzaSan Marco and its busy museums, caffes and boutiques,there would be two protected nature reserves coveringtens of hectares: the sand dunes called Oasi Dunedegli Alberoni and the nature reserve Ca’ Roman? Despite Lido and Pellestrina being amongst the
closest islands to Venice, they are very unique: for example, in the historic city centre the canals are seen asroads and you can’t cycle along the alleys and paths, hereyou can pedal away happily. To get to Lido from themainland is easy also with your bicycle: you get on a ferry(number 17, company name is ACTV) which takes people(and their means of transport) from the island of Tronchetto to Lido. If you don’t have a bicycle, on the island youcan find several places to hire one. Or, you can choose totake a more comfortable tour aboard ACTV public transport: from Piazzale Roma you get on the steamboat number 1, which arrives at Lido via the Grand Canal it is theslowest line but you can see all around you easily as well asthe beautiful old buildings which overlook the canal. Once
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you have arrived at Lido, you get on bus number 11 whichcrosses the whole island and arrives at Pellestrina on aferry. On foot or by bike, from San Nicolò, the mostwesterly point of Lido, you can walk along the wide treelined roads and along the sea front towards Malamoccobridge, taking in the Liberty and Art Deco style villas and grand hotels. Everyone knows Lido for thefamous international cinema festival, which brings bigglobal stars to the island at the end of August and the beginning of September, and has been doing so since 1932.Every year there are shows, events, press conferences,parties and galas. But Lido isn’t only this: there are alsobeautiful beaches, which receive the Blue Flag on a yearlybasis, showing the sea is clean and the facilities are well
looked after. To get to Alberoni you go along the sea frontand up onto on the murazzi which are stone fortifications created in 1751 to protect the beach and the lagoonfrom sea storms. Here you will see the unusual sculpturesmade by local people with materials drifted in from thesea. The picturesque town of Malamocco is worth a visit.It’s the first settlement on the island and looks like a littleVenice with canals, squares and paths. Its fish restaurantsare popular with Italian film makers Mario Soldati, Felliniand Italian comic book creator Hugo Pratt. The magistrate building (Palazzo del podestà) is nice to visit, itis the permanent home to archeological finds relating tothe history of Lido. Going towards the southerly end of theisland you reach the sand dunes Oasi Dune degli Al
The eco-friendly fair trade map of Venice
Off course. The other mapof Venice is a brand newmap of the city, the littlevademecum of ideas andadvice for ecofriendly andfair trade holidays in thelagoon, away from the usualtourist routes. It's morethan just a map produced by the Municipalityof Venice in collaborationwith the noprofit organisation AEres it is full ofrecommendations for where to go for green and fair tradeshopping (shops, markets, farms), and also suggests ecofriendly and vegetarian places to stay and eat in thecentre of Venice, the other islands of the lagoon and thesurrounding area. The whole publication can be consultedbefore you set out, on the Municipality of Venice tourism portal,www.veniceconnected.com/fuorirotta.
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beroni, set between the Adriatic sea and the lagoon. Itsname comes from the large trees which were clearly visible to those arriving by sea and which indicated the entrance to the canal port. The oasis surrounds one of thebiggest and best conserved sand dunes on theAdriatic coast, with dunes as tall as 10 metres. There arepaths crossing the pine forest which is 30 hectares big,and is home to flora and fauna. When you get off the boatat the island of Pellestrina, you come across little fishing villages San Pietro in Volta, Portosecco andPellestrina where it seems you have gone back to Veniceof the 50s. You see the fishermens’ wives sat outside theirfront doors, bent over their crocheting an island traditionlike in Burano the fishing nets spread out to dry and thechildren playing in each other’s houses. Linked to
Pellestrina by the sea fortifications (Murazzi), the naturereserve Ca’ Roman is the home to unique species ofbirds, both water based ones like the Oyster Catcher, andMediterranean ones like the Horned Owl and the rareEuropean Nightjar. To visit Ca’ Roman is like going backin time and seeing the Venetian coasts of old. The reserveis also an area of interest due to the fort Forte Barbarigo and the Austrian bunkers, used up until the secondworld war. When the birds migrate, both protected naturereserve areas are a real paradise for bird watchersand wildlife photographers: in winter you can seethe Yellow Legged Gull, the European Herring Gull andthe Blackthroated Loon; in spring it is common to see theSandwich Tern and the Mediterranean Gull, specieswhich are not very widespread in Italy.
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Palazzo del Podestàpiazza Maggiore Malamocco (VE)tours by appointment tel+39.333.6143976
Oasi Dune degli Alberonivia dei Bagni marini, località AlberoniLido di Venezia (VE)L'area è aperta alla visita tutto l'anno; laprimavera e l'autunno sono i periodi piùindicati per fioriture e osservazionifaunistiche.www.dunealberoni.it
Riserva naturale Ca' Romanlocalità Ca' Roman Pellestrina (VE)Il periodo migliore per la visita va damarzo a giugno e da settembre anovembre; è possibile prenotare visiteguidate ed escursioni in barca.www.lipuvenezia.it
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S ta te l o t te ry
In 1733 in Venice, the State Lottery wasofficially born, under the name of “Entitled Lottery of Genoa and Rome”.Ninety girls were chosen from parishes,hospitals and religious places, theirnames written down and put into a ballotbox by five magistrates. Every year nineextractions of five names were made.While the magistrates were responsiblefor controlling operations, collaboratorspublished the extracted name but, beforeofficial disclosure, groups of children ranamong the alleyways of the city would revealing the extractions in exchange formoney.
The doradori were artisans. Theyworked with the fine gold leafthat resulted from a series of processes, starting with mixtures ofplaster and red clay right up tothe agate stonepolishing phase.No material could have been better to celebrate Venice’s splendourthan gold. It was easy to come byduring the rich Byzantium age; itwas the best way to represent thesacredness of a place, an object or afabric and the thousands of squaremetres of mosaic in Venice’s St.Mark’sBasilicawasanearlyexampleof experimentation with it. In theXV and XVI centuries, these artisansenjoyedanextremelyhighreputation, so much so as to even berequested abroad. The doradori’s
work became even more popularduring the 1700s with the fashion ofRococò golden doors and furniture,orthestatuesofthefamous“Moors”with turbans holding fruit bowls orbright torches, or in the woodenparts of theatres. And there weremany theatres in Venice; amongthem the jewel of the Fenice, built inthe second half of the 1700s following the design by GiannantonioSelva. The rich stuccoed decoration,engravingsandpanelsoftheTheatreand the Apollonian Rooms attractedadmiration from all over the worldfor their magnificence. The dramaticfiresitsuffereddidnothingtodestroyits splendour; a splendour renderedimmortal – as is the phoenix itself –throughaccurate renovations.
Venetiancuriosities
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ancient crafts
The doradori
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The island of Saint Erasmushas a strong agricultural vocation and as well as thefamous violet artichoke,there are also many vineswhich bring forth a wine of atruly unique flavour. InSeptember the grapes areharvested and then crushedand pressed leaving a cloudyand very sweet liquid: almosta lightly alcoholic grape juicefrom which wine is then obtained through fermentation.Traditionally, on the firstSunday in October (this yearthe 6th) the Island’s festivalcommittee organises the“Festival of Must”, a fun faircelebrating this preciousnectar.As well as daylong entertainment – including musicwith the local band – andsolidarity initiatives, thefestival starts with a morn
ing mass of thanks with theisland’s greengrocers, theblessing of agricultural carts,gastronomic stands andmarketexhibition. In the afternoon is the famous,mixedcrew Venetianregatta. And finally in theevening, the traditional public grape pressing, when youcan even sample the grapejuice directly. There are alsovarious entertainments forchildren.
HOW TO REACH
By steamboat from CavallinoTreporti, where you can alsotake your bike on board, orfrom Venezia Pontile inPiazzale Roma or Fondamenta Nuove.
Info: Hellovenezia 041 2424
The colours of the flagsThe Republic of Venice used to usedifferent colours for flags to indicatewhether they were in a state of war orpeace. The cloth was white in times ofpeace and red in war. Alliance with asovereign was indicated by a blue cloth,while a period of truce was indicated bya purple cloth. Ships always used redfor both their flags and their uniforms– giving rise to the tradition of displaying red cloths over the square, considering that the antennas of the squarerepresent the masts of ships.
The bu t t re s sThis is a typical Venetian architectural structure consisting in protruding wooden or stone trussesused to support the protrusion of abuilding on the first floor level,compared to the alleyways or landbelow. In layman’s terms, from thefirst floor up, the buttresses supportthe protruding part as if they were alarge shelf. The one shown in thephoto is in Istria stone and is foundin Rialto. It was the model for allVenetian buttresses.
tradition
The Festival of Must
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Assessorato al Turismo
LLaauurraa RRiibbaannoo
VVenezia magazineyear 1 , issue 3, September/October 201 3
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