uses of vegetable oils for cosmetics - itergiterg.com/img/pdf/cataloguecosmetic2017-vf.pdf · ·...

uses of vegetable oils for cosmetics

Multiply the potential of oily ingredientsfrom seeds to ingredients

ITERG11 Rue Monge - Parc Industriel Bersol 2 - 33600 PESSAC - FRANCE

www.iterg.com

Almond. Argan. Avocado. Baobab. Buriti. Camellia. Carnauba wax. Corn. Hemp. Inca Inchi. Muscat Rose. Olive. Palme. Pinus Pinaster. Plum. Sunfl ower. Shea Butter. Soybeans. Ximenia. Neem. Cupuaçu Butter …

What will you fi nd ?

• ITERG is equipped with a versatile platform dedicated to oleochemistry and to the development of oil-based ingredients or products.

• ITERG makes available its expertise, its experience in synthesis of oily ingredients and functionalization of vegetable oils.

• ITERG is well recognized for its expertise in the analysis of oils & fats. ITERG deals with cosmetics companies in order to provide quality control and fi ne characterization of oils component.

• ITERG is working in partnership on emulsion formulation which associate an aqueous and a lipidic phase using amphiphilic compounds.

• Organic, Conventional or Special Vegetable oils - Vegetable fats (butters, waxes)• New lipids Origins (Lipids of oleaginous yeasts, production of lipids from micro-algae …)• Lipids derivatives

• To maximize the potential of ingredients coming from your oils • To develop the portfolio of products• To valorize new raw materials and all of its components

Our raw material ?

A unique place for vegetable oils based products

What for ?

ITERG Cosmetics Catalog - 2017 - www.iterg.com 1

OleochemistryCustom manufacturing

• Th e Laboratory step demonstrates the feasibility and allow optimizations • Pilot scale is used to test pre-production and market

• We can advise you and manage the development of your ingredients• Or with your own protocol, we can transpose the developments on our platform for validation and

large scale production.

Contract manufacturing

Examples of functional lipids that can be developed for cosmetics

ITERG’s oleochemical platform is built to transpose and evaluate productions

Ingredients developed from the oils can be classifi ed by chemical type or by known function. For an example, emollients serve two functions, they prevent dryness and protect the skin acting as a barrier.Vegetables oils are natural emollients. Esters can also be emollient and we can improve sensory feeling, glide and application on the skin by choosing the corresponding alcohol (Ethyl-, stearyl-, glyceryl-, isopropyl-, polyglyceryl…).

Esters can also be developed to access other features such as :• Emulsifi ers for blending and holding together non-miscible ingredients. • Surfactants for holding oils and dirts in order to be removed and rinsed away

TRIGLYCERIDES FATTY ACIDS OR ESTERSHydrolysis Fatty acids Esterifi cation Esters, wax estersAlcoholys Mono/di-glyceride Amidifi cation CeramidesTransesterifi cation Fatty acids alkyl esters Transesterifi cation Sucrose esters

N-Acylation Lipoaminoacids

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Oleochemistry Equipment overview

Distillation

Deodorization

Based on volatility diff erences Falling fi lm and/or Rectifying Column 12 theoretical plates (KD 10, SULZER)50 to 200 l/h - 1 to 10-3mbar

Based on molecular weightWiped fi lm molecular distillation100 ml to 2l/h - 10-2 mbar

Distillation can work for:- bleaching the oils or esters by removing coloured components- the separation of fatty acid or ester mixtures- a reduction of IP value- enrichment of the unsaponifi able matter

Molecular distillation is useful for unstable or highly oxidative fats, oils and their derivatives.

• Batch 500L up to 1000L• Continuous fl ow 300L/h• Horizontal design• P < 3 mbar• On-line Anti-oxidation• Nitrogen blanketing

Deodorization is part of the refi ning process. It allows to:- reduce IP value, - remove odorous molecules such as aldehydes, ketones…

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ITERG Cosmetics Catalog - 2017 - www.iterg.com

Pilot distillation Lab distillation

Deodorization will increase stability of oils and esters.

Gardner 8 Gardner 2 Gardner <1

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Hydrogenation

Lab: 2,5 l - 25 bars - 250°C (H2, CO2, CO/H2)Pilot: 300l, 75 bars - 280°C (H2, CO2, CO2/H2)

Chemical synthesisBatch

1X100l 2X2000lCentral shaft agitation with three-blade propellers

Counter-rotating anchor with scrapers Bottom rotor/stator mixer

Stainless steel Nitrogen blanketing Jacketed vessel Feed hopper

Add. EquipmentPress Filter – Centrifuge - Decanter

We ensure a permanent monitoring and can provide operating data


OleochemistryEquipment overview

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Hydrogenation allows to:- increase the thickeness and add texture to oils- increase the oxidative stability of lipids- use processed oils as raw material for butters

- Coordinating and implementing research & development programs aimed at developing new processes and bioproducts - Transferring processes from the laboratory-scale to pilot-scale production, scale-up and process validation including economic and environmental evaluation- Industrial pre-production models for wide-scale and/or test market formulation testing- Customized production of fi nished products for the cosmetic industry.

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Oleochemistry

Hydrogenation involves addition of hydrogen to the double bonds of unsaturated fatty acids. Hydrogenation will convert liquid oil into solid products.Transesterifi cation is used to change viscosity of vegetable oils depending of the alcohol used.Interesterifi cation is a technique for making butter-like products from vegetable oils.

Vegetable butter are made by interchanging fatty acids between:- a vegetable oil and the saturated fraction of a natural butter- a vegetable oil and the full hydrogenated oil- a vegetable oil and wax esters.

Th is way you can develop a diff erent kind of textures.

DSC provides useful information regarding the thermodynamical changes that are associated with vegetable fats transforming from one physical state to another.


INCI name: C10-C18 TGin accordance with Chinese regulations IECIC list

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Bring texture to your products

Melting and Crystallization behavior of fat and oils products monitored by DSC

Vegetables oils respond to natural ingredient wishes and formulators expectations


OleochemistryLaunching new products to test

ITERG and its partners can provide new ingredients to be tested into formulations

Th rough a Material Transfer Agreement (MTA), bioproduct samples can be sent free of charge (from 100 g to 1 kg, according to your need). By signing the MTA, you make a commitment to share with us the results obtained during your evaluation, in the purpose to understand together the best interest.

PRIC 100 ( registered INCI)

Mono unsaturated triglyceride coming from biotechnology

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MMM

- A suspending agent and emulsifi er that is used to stabilize products. It can be used to stabilize formulas that contain an SPF component, such as sunscreens. (SPF: sun protection factor)- Biobased polymer (>99% of renewable carbon)- Viscosifying agent- Compatible with REACH and IECIC regulations.

A new sourcing with stability improvement comparable to a Very High Oleic sunfl ower oil but that increase if its added by Tocopherols.

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Quality Control - Analytical Chemistry Quality control to check the conformity of products placed on market

Th e complete lipids analysis

Improvement of stability for fats and oils

Certifi cations & AgreementsOur Quality Management System is structured in accordance with ISO 9001: 2008 and is correspondingly certifi cated Our laboratory is accredited by the COFRAC for program 82. ITERG is referenced as training provider under n°72.33.P0199.33 ITERG is involved into the evaluation of environmental impacts of vegetables oils and fats from seeds production to consumers. ITERG can provide environmental data for life cycle analysis.

• Hydrolytic alterations and Oxidative measurement of oils (acidity, peroxide index…)• Purity and adulteration of oils (tocopherols, Triglyceride composition…)• Undesirable and toxic substances - from environmental (Heavy metals, Mineral oil, Phthalates…) - from production process (3-MCPD or glycidyl esters)

• Triglyceride composition - Free fatty acid content… • Minor compounds that constitute the unsaponifi able matter (vitamins, sterols, triterpene alcohols,

tocopherols…)

Th e Rancimat method is an accelerated aging test.A measurement of oils stability index can be monitored when they are exposed to higher temperatures and air. It is also possible to characterize the effi ciency of added antioxidants.

Th e OXIPRES method is an extension of the possibilities for testing the antioxidative resistance of oils and products containing fat without extracting fat before analysis.

ISO 6886AOCS Cd 12b-92

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Synergy of skillson the same site

Unit for oil refi ning

A joint venture between ITERG and Terres Inovia for extraction and refi ning of vegetables oils

Olead processes diff erent kinds of oleaginous seeds, fruits and nuts for the production of vegetable crude oils- Th e extractability of the oil is highly dependent on the preparation of the seeds- Olead can perform solvent (alcohol or hexane) and mechanical extraction (cold pressing)

Th e purpose of refi ning oils and fats is to remove free fatty acids and other objectionable substances including impurities while maintaining the value and ensuring the quality and stability of the end product.Olead can perform the both main refi ning processes used on crude oils, chemical and physical refi ning.


Unit for seeds crushing

Quality & Safety of products

Technological Processes

Environment & Eco-Industries

Nutrition Metabolism& Health

Green Chemistry Cosmetics

11 Rue MongeParc Industriel Bersol 233600 Pessac - FRANCE

Phone : 33(0)5.56.36.00.44Mail : [email protected]

www.iterg.com

Contacts:

- Didier PINTORI, Head of Oleochemistry Platform, [email protected]

- Fabrice FARRUGIA, Sales Representative, [email protected]

uses of vegetable oils for cosmetics - itergiterg.com/img/pdf/cataloguecosmetic2017-vf.pdf · ·...

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